(Part 3) Top products from r/HomeNetworking

to be honest, none of those are really good for what you need, you need a better wifi.

a home network router is usually three devices in one,

• a router (small computer in the class of a raspberry pi),
  
• a switch (to get you more ethernet ports)
  
• a wifi accesspoint
  
  In some cases manufacturers will even add a modem.
  
  What you need is an accesspoint, ... (or a home router that can be configured as an accesspoint). It allows wireless clients (stations) to connect to the wired lan.
  
  It doesn't do any routing/nat/firewalling/... all it does is broadcast an SSID, allows devices to connect, and whenever it receives a packet over wireless, forwards it to the wired lan, .. whenever it receives a packet from wired lan, forwards it to the wireless client. That's it.
  
  ---
  
  What you could also probably do, is have a cascading setup, where you never connect directly to the Huawei, but have something like this:
  
  [huawei 192.168.1.1]----[192.168.1.2 new wifi router 192.168.2.0/24]---))) all other wired and wireless devices
  
  On your router, before connecting it to anything, you'd reconfigure the lan ip range to something non-conflicting with huawei, like 192.168.2.0/24 .. and you'd configure the wan ip to a static ip. Then on the huawei, you'd setup a DMZ, which in homerouters is used to mean, "forward all ports" to 192.168.1.2 (your router). Then you'd connect the two.
  
  This setup would also make sense considering the way things are now, your ISP practically has control over your firewall.
  
  ---
  
  list of hardware that's generally liked around here and considered worthy spend of money:
  
  
• https://mikrotik.com/product/cap_ac (coming out in march)
  
• https://mikrotik.com/product/hap_ac2 (coming out in march)
  
• https://mikrotik.com/product/RBwAPG-5HacT2HnD (replace with cap ac in march)
  
• https://mikrotik.com/product/RB962UiGS-5HacT2HnT (replace with hap ac2 in march)
  
• https://mikrotik.com/product/RB750Gr3 (use hap ac2 in march)
  
• https://www.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-ap-ac-lite/ (just an ap, needs a unifi controller software)
  
• https://www.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-ap-ac-pro/ (bigger antennas than lite - slightly more sensitivity)
  
• https://www.ubnt.com/unifi-routing/usg/ (just a wired router works with unifi controller)
  
• https://www.ubnt.com/edgemax/edgerouter-x/ (poor mans version of RB750Gr3)
  
• https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-AC1750-Smart-Router/dp/B00BUSDVBQ (cheap wifi router, slow cpu, older versions well supported by opensource, newer versions have similar hardware so could be supported one day)
  
• https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-X4S-R7800-100NAS-Compatible/dp/B0192911RA (really good router, good opensource support)
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Linksys-Dual-Band-Wireless-Anywhere-WRT1900AC/dp/B00KEK4Q5Q (good router, really good opensource support)
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Linksys-Dual-Band-Wireless-Tri-Stream-WRT3200ACM/dp/B01JOXW3YE (good router, really good opensource support)
  
  Opensource support is relevant for security and longevity of the device, .. mikrotik and ubiquiti products generally are supported for at least 5 years, and are fairly popular.
  
  ---
  
  > In regards to my EEE PC, I've heard rumours that you can re-use a computer as a router, so would it be worth using it as a WiFi AP instead
  
  yes this is assuming the specs / performance are better than a modern router, in your case the 901 doesn't have a good wifi, and has only one 100mbps wired port, it's also has a 10 year old early atom as a cpu.
  
  folks using computers as routers are either buying ryzen these days, or buying 5 year old refurbished core i5 thin clients and stuffing more gigabit nics .. generally accesspoints are the way to go for wifi, usually the pc doesn't deal with wifi in those setups.

Here are your options for home wifi networking:

1. Buy a super strong wifi router and you're good to go even in a large home - as long as you don't live in a repurposed bomb shelter. An example of a "super strong" router: here
   
2. Buy a normal router or your current one and add access points. An example of a "normal" router: here . An access point (AP) is not a wifi extender. You must run a cable (CAT 5E/ CAT 6) from your router to the location where you need improved wifi signal, there you plug in the AP and attach the Ethernet cable from the router. The AP simply turns a wired connection into a wireless one and broadcasts the same network as that coming from your router. An example of an AP: here .
   
3. Buy a normal router or your current router and use a wifi extender(s). I wifi extender receives packets from your wireless router, ups the signal strength, and then forwards them to a nearby host. If you are having poor signal at point B and the router is at point A then put the extender directly in the middle of the 2; I have seen so many people make the mistake of putting the extender at point B, which defeats the whole purpose because it is just your host device's antenna vs the extender's.
   
4. An extender/AP all in one device. An example: here
   
5. A mesh wifi system. It can be difficult to distinguish a multi-AP/ multi-extender setup from a mesh system, but the main differences are that the mesh will be easier to setup and more "polished" in general. A mesh system will automatically detect the SSID (network name) from the wifi router and extend it. Want to add a signal booster? With mesh you can buy another matching unit and use WPS for a one button setup. The mesh is also smart in identifying when you move from one area to another ans switching to the closer device to server you your packets. Now, this is seen in some higher end APs and extenders such as here , but its not as seamless and usually more expensive in the long run. An example of a mesh system: here
   
   APs are generally more stable (UBIQUITI makes great ones) due to the wired connection. I like using APs because I can buy as I need more and set some up on different VLANs and hide SSIDs, but those are more advanced options. For most people who do not want to run cable or go with more of a permanent networking setup, the easiest and most effective solution is generally a mesh system. The TP-Link one is great as well as Google WiFi.
   
   EDITED: Because the bot thought I was using affiliate links...

first off, don't rent a router from your ISP. you will need to use a modem or gateway depending on the type of internet you are getting. if you are using cable or dsl i would also suggest to buy your own modem as well. it's a modern version of renting a rotary phone from the company and a racket.

you can get a router and wifi combo that is new and good for about $150 or more for faster or more advanced features.

as far as game plan for your home here is my suggestions
to start you off since you just moved in and are already renting it for now just use the provided router from to fiber provider so you can get connected and plan the rest of this build out.

depending on the layout and size of your home (cinder block construction is terrible for wifi and other rf signals) you may need multiple access points. my suggestion is to look into a brand of networking equipment called ubiquity.

they are relatively new to the market and have really shaken up the price and feature packs. set up is mainly through a web and mobile app and is very easy for a relatively new person to IT. there is also a huge community here on reddit and youtube showing off features and giving how to's.

here is my goto suggestion if you are willing to invest in an infrastructure more than a single router.

the fiber will come into your property and go through a modem and gateway provided by the isp you would then plug it into a router:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG/dp/B00LV8YZLK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526552321&sr=8-2&keywords=unifi

This is a smaller model that is a router and firewall combo by ubiquity, its about 110 at amazon

Then you plug the router into a switch:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Managed-Gigabit-US-8-150W/dp/B01DKXT4CI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526552321&sr=8-3&keywords=unifi

This is a sort of backbone device that you would use to send the internet to other devices and for other devices to comunicate with each other. this one is a poe switch which means it can send power to some devices like access points over the one cat 5 cable. this one has 8 ports so that means 7 outboard devices can be connected to the network because one is needed for the router. they make larger ones with more ports for more devices. this model is currently 194 on amazon

you will then need access points:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1526552321&sr=8-5&keywords=unifi

these are radios that broadcast wifi to your wireless devises these connect to the switch with cat 5 cables and are best placed near where you are going to use wifi devises the average home would benefit from two or three of these one to cover the living room kitchen great room area and one to cover the bedroom hallway are and possibly one for the backyard pool area (that might be important because of your external walls). this model is currently 80 on amazon.

if you deploy this list you will also need a cloud key:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Cloud-Key-Control/dp/B017T2QB22/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526553343&sr=8-1&keywords=cloud+key

this is a devise that manages the network and stores configuration files locally. it's like a mini server. this is about 78 on amazon.

you will also need cat 5/6/7 cables of various lengths and a power strip for about 500 you can get a really great network that can cover your whole house and that can easily be upgraded incrementally as technology improves. My suggestion would be to get all this mounted in a closet somewhere and get cat5/6/7 run to all the things that you can and place the access point in the house so you get the best coverage possible for the IOT devises in your house. as your network grows and you need more wired ports you can add a switch or replace the one with a 24 or 46 port one. when wifi tech improves past ag you can just replace the access points without affecting the rest of the network.another big thing is to run cable to anything you can this will help with keeping your wifi fast since there are less devices on the wifi.

Edit:
If there are two main points they would be:

1. wire everything you can so that way the devises that need to be wireless can be faster
   
2. Don't rent non-proprietary equipment from your ISP

Hey, I'm glad I can talk about this with someone who is interested! No worries of annoying me with your question, networking is my passion.

An unmanaged gigabit switch would be fine for 99% of normal setups. Having a managed switch that supports VLANs will allow more flexibility in how you decide to connect devices logically but in a normal house, it's not necessary. If you start having a lab to play with, security camera you want on a different network, or a guest wifi with users that shouldn't be able to see your other devices, the managed switch becomes a necessity. Honestly, switching hardware for unmanaged switches are probably all made in the same Broadcom factory in China, so any brand will do. When you go for a managed switch, then software quality matters and spending a little more can avoid large frustrations later on.

For a 1Gbps internet link, there are two kinds of setup possible. If you have a larger house, or can't place the router centrally, I would recommend a "separate devices setup" with the Ubiquiti Edgerouter Lite, a switch like the Netgear Prosafe GS116E if VLANs are needed or the TP-Link TL-SG108 if they aren't needed and on the AP side, one or two of the Ubiquiti AP AC Lite, or if you want more speed the AP AC Pro. This would allow you to make use of the 1Gbps you get.

You could also go for an integrated unit like the Nighthawk R7000 or the Asus RT-AC68U. If you have a smaller house or apartment and the router can be placed centrally, this is probably the most cost-effective setup.

For something not Ubiquiti, I would suggest Mikrotik, as they will have something that supports 1Gbps routing. They also have nice APs. They have a lot of models though, so I can't say which one would work best.

There are so many choices it's hard to be able to say "this is the best device for you". There are combinations that I know they will work well, but there are so many options I don't know them all.

The best thing to do is separate everything out so you can future proof your setup. What if down the line you want to extend your wifi or need more wired ports? When you separate everything out (security gateway/firewall, switch and wifi access points) its much easier to upgrade and troubleshoot. Your typical consumer grade all in one routers have all three of those things in one package and none of them are particularly great.

Ubiquiti is the current leader at this for the home user. They have SOHO grade equipment (small office home office) which is basically enterprise grade equipment but at consumer grade prices.

If I were you, here's what I'd do:
Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway (USG) - this will be the brains of your system and allow port forwarding, QoS, deep packet inspection, etc.

Ubiquiti Networks 8-Port UniFi Switch, Managed PoE+ Gigabit Switch with SFP, 150W (US-8-150W) - this gives you 8 ports, all of which can be enabled for power over ethernet which can easily power your security cameras and access points. If you don't need this then you can get the cheaper non-PoE switch Ubiquiti US-8 Unifi Switch

Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US) - This is a great access point to give you fast wifi at a great range. This plugs directly into your switch via ethernet cable. If you need to extend you wifi then you can get a second one and plug it in. These can be powered by PoE which is really nice.

Total cost: $461

I guarantee you would end up spending more upgrading an all in one router over the next few years. This will easily last you 10+ years if not more and be enterprise grade equipment.

It has been decided that we can not run a cable so now the options are the mesh system and it appears there are some good options out there. Can you please help choose which model would best to go with for longevity of product, security if possible, and reliability?

​

Looks like the Netgear Orbi RBK50 is on sale around $90 off, but only has two points?

LINK for Ultra Performance Orbi RBK50 (2 points) - would 2 points be enough?

LINK for NetGear Orbi RBK33 (3 points)

Deco M4 3-Pack

Deco M5 3-Pack

Google WiFi system, 3-Pack

​

Budget is to $300 and under.

​

So my Cox cable modem is also a router so I presume I would plug the main router into the modem router, disable the Cox network and only use the new network routing system? Or what would be the best configuration here?

​

( I like the idea of having a guest network and putting any unsecure or unsure devices on the guest network, i would presume the guest network has same speed as the primary network right? )

​

Thanks for your guys helps so far! Definitely appreciate it :)

​

EDIT: Also want to make sure it works well with iOS devices since that will be the majority of devices connected.

> CAT 6 "ends" (jacks? plugs?)

In ITU nomenclature, the male end of a cable is a plug, and the female receptacle in the wall is a jack.

> We just purchased a new house and it has 3 runs of CAT 6 cable, but no "ends." I only need 6 ends, where is the best place to order them from?

Slow down. You need to determine what type of cable you have in your house first. 95% it will be solid-core cable. Solid-core can be identified from the cut end as each of the eight wires will be a single copper wire. Solid-core will also be stiffer, and tend to hold a bend.

If you have stranded-core, things change and you do need to spend a bit more on tools.

If you have solid-core (which you should, and is better in this case) you need to terminate to female jacks. Jacks can be found in any home-improvement store, as well as online. Keystone-style jacks are the most convenient especially for new installers. If you're in the US you want something like this.

If you also need to mount these in the wall, you want to ad a low-voltage, old-work box (which are open in the back and usually black or orange) and a keystone face-plate. All of these are available in multi-gang, and multiple ports-per-gang, as well as decora-style if you're nitpicky like me.

For just a few drops, I would look at your local big-box home improvement store first. They will be a little more expensive per-drop, but probably cheaper for the entire project. They will also accept returns when you buy the wrong part and can help you find compatible products.

> Also, are the ends tricky to install or could a person with no experience figure it out pretty easily?

You can do it yourself pretty easily. The jacks should come with instructions and a small plastic tool. If you have trouble, there are dozens of posts in this sub with advice. Also, you probably know someone who can help you out for the cost of a 6-pack. Most IT professionals can do this.

When punching down (connecting the cable to the jack) there will be two different "orders" you can put the individual wires in. It doesn't matter which one you use as long as both ends are the same. However, in the US, order "B" is the most common.

First of all, thank you so much for the video. This was honestly the most helpful response from any Redditor I've received, and I've gotten a lot of very good responses and answers from several users. Including the other great replies on this post.

Okay, I suppose I was confused in thinking that a second router would act only as an access point, with a router behind it. I thought you might be able to create an access point only, and even a range extender (which I'm not really currently needing) from a second router. Regardless, please excuse my ignorance, as I'm still very novice at networking. I'm trying to learn at least, and you're a very good educator.

That said, now my main question is, with a new Wireless Access Point connected to an existing WiFi router, would one still possibly be able to "see" the router's interface while connected? Or if it's just an Access Point only, would it then be isolated from the router?

Basically what I'm trying to ask is, if guest with computer B, that unbeknownst has malware, connects to an access point you have connected to your router, in theory could it still access the router's web interface since everything's connected?

For example: I know if computer B is connected even to the guest network (as stated earlier I have a guest network feature on my router), goes to routerlogin.net (this is what I've used to access my router's settings), if the password was broken, then in theory your router could be hacked, and any number of things could be changed if access was had on the interface.

So, could one even go to routerlogin.net, or whatever IP was used to log into that router from just an Access Point, to access the router's web interface? Would an access point also isolate connected devices from each other, better than just the guest network access?

You've definitely confirmed in your video that this could happen if a router was connected to another router, offering no apparent security advantages.

Honestly though, I'm just a bit paranoid. I don't have a lot of money. Not necessarily wanting to mess around with different firmware, and settings I may not understand either.

I do have a strong password though to log into my router's web interface. I update the firmware as well, when new versions are available. Again, my router also has a guest network access feature that I have sep up for both of its 2.4 and 5 GHz frequencies. Although I don't really know how secure this really is. So now I'm contemplating getting this access point, since I already have a Netgear router:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LFSDZCU/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1498775218&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=access+point&dpPl=1&dpID=31VEBr8HqfL&ref=plSrch

If not needed or recommend though, I'll probably save myself from further anxiety.

Again my current router is a Netgear AC1600 WiFi VDSL/ADSL 802.11ac Modem Router combo, model no. D6400.

I haven't turned off WPS, but will try if and since recommend. Not to start another long discussion, although I believe I have UPnP on. Should I turn this off too? Or leave it on, since I do play games?

Anyway, as long as I'm doing all of the right basics, and as long as any would be hackers won't hack my router.

Thanks again for all of the advice. Sorry for the length of my post/comment reply. I sincerely don't wish to be at all bothering you. Best regards, and thanks a bunch!

this ^

just to add to his comments. that enclosure panel looks like it's one of those "pre drilled" panels that has accompanying add-ons such as teleco, network, video modules that you can add on to. while i'm not a big fan of using those types of network components, you might look up the brand of the enclosure and see what's available for it.

or you can just get something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6

...and screw it down with self tapping screws and just use that punch down tool you linked with the 110 blade. (practice first on a lower port if it's your first time using one of those... but they're fairly easy to use.... just keep it straight when punching down). same thing when punching down the Ethernet keystones in each room.

beginner's tip when punching down on those blocks: screw down the white bracket where you want it (make sure all cables reach first!). Then snap the punch panel backwards to give you a clear view of the back of each port. makes it easier to punch. then when you're done, un-snap it and snap it back the correct way. again... make sure cables all reach before screwing it down. if you have extra cable, i say punch it down with the extra then when you're done punching, push the excess cable back into the wall. depending on the height of the bracket, it's best to have a step ladder to get you chest level or so to the bracket... makes punching straight easier.

hope this helps.

I have that ASUS RT-N66U and it's been more than capable of all of my demands. I usually have around 13 devices on the network and it does well. Granted all of those devices aren't using the network at all times but the only issues I've had with any performance issues is due to poor signal (from basement to upstairs bedroom) so not really a problem in the sense that it's bad router, just my implementation. It also has a ton of features so if you want to delve deeper into networking it has a good range of extra stuff you can do if you're into that sort of thing.

I've got 100 Mbps from Comcast and whenever I have strong connection I get my full bandwidth (and then some) according to Speedtest. Looks like you'll have around 10 devices and depending on what your connection is the Asus router should be more than capable of serving all your needs. I've mine for a couple of years now and as I said earlier, no issues.

I might recommend spending a little extra and getting one that has wireless AC on it. That way whenever you upgrade devices that have AC capability you can use it and you'll be a little more "future proof."

Here's a link to basically the same router, but with AC: RT-AC66U

Another suggestion I have would be to go ahead and buy your own cable modem. This is modem I have. Since I own it I can take it with me. I don't get charged monthly to rent the modem/router combo from Comcast. You don't have to do this, but for a lot of people (including myself), it's nice being able to control your own hardware. I know that I received a new unit and not some refurbished unit that who knows how many people have used before me (this applies to routers as well).

Buying your own stuff and getting it set up is easy enough. Usually just have to call customer support or something and give what numbers they ask for. Then you're not paying extra per month to rent a modem.

Just my 2 cents on the matter. This response turned out a little longer that I thought it would, sorry 'bout that. Hope it helps.

Hi,

yes, Separate modem + Router is always better than Combo devices but it also depends on your needs and use-cases

read this link and see where you land:
http://pickmymodem.com/cable-modem-wi-fi-modem-router-combo-one-buy/

for Suggestions om Combo devices:

1. C7000 AC1900 is pretty good http://amzn.to/2nbGF21
   
2. Motorola MG7550 is good as well and I have seen many good reviews http://amzn.to/2nB50PR
   
   Both of these are Broadcom based and dont have latency issue which has plagued Puma6. Dont buy Low power WIFI Combos as you will regret later.
   
   If you have high budget, I suggest you go separate modem + Separate Router
   
   Modems:
   http://pickmymodem.com/approved-modems-for-xfinity-internet-service/
   
   SB6183 (http://amzn.to/2minyUV) OR CM600 (http://amzn.to/2mG4zPi) are good choices
   
   
   Routers:
   NETGEAR R7000 AC1900 (http://amzn.to/2qnhZG2) OR TPLink Archer C9 (http://amzn.to/2pRApP3)
   
   Mesh??:
   Do you want Best WIFI range and have budget? then go for MESH WIFI systems:
   
3. NETGEAR Orbi RBK50 Kit http://amzn.to/2pq1ojA
   
4. Google MESH WIFI system http://amzn.to/2qmYqO7
   
   
   
   

In order to support everything you're doing, you need a proper WIRED network. It's the first step to good Wi-Fi, as good Wi-Fi comes from access points, which use a wired connection.

You will need, at the very least, Ethernet lines run from strategic spots on your ceilings (for APs) to a central location. With a floor plan, I could recommend specific AP spots. You should also install at least one Ethernet jack wherever you have devices that stay put. Anything that stays put and can use Ethernet, either natively or through an adapter, should. This includes desktop PCs, game consoles, smart TVs, printers, streaming media players, and even smart speakers. The fewer things you have on Wi-Fi, the faster it'll be.

All your Ethernet lines coming from APs and jacks should run to a central location. A basement is ideal. They'll terminate at a patch panel. You'll get a big gigabit switch, something like this, and connect its ports to the patch panel ports with patch cables.

Your router will connect between the switch and the modem/ONT. You don't need a wireless router for this, as the APs will be handling the Wi-Fi. This would be ideal, just connect WAN1 to the modem/ONT and LAN1 to the switch.

Your cable should be Cat6. This will future-proof you for 10 gigabit, assuming all your runs are less than 55 meters. You can downgrade to Cat5e for reduced cost if you want, this will still support gigabit. Either way, get a 1000 foot bulk spool of cable that has solid conductors, not stranded, and is made of pure copper rather than copper-clad aluminum (CCA). Each run should go from the patch panel to a keystone jack. Don't try to make your own patch cables, buy them premade. Crimping on RJ45 plugs is much harder to get right than the punch-down connections the jacks and patch panel use.

At any location where you have multiple Ethernet-using devices but just one jack (or just not enough jacks), just get a small switch.

As for the APs, you've got a few choices here...

The Lite. Small and cheap, two streams each of 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz, for a total combined link speed of AC1200. If you're getting lots of APs, which is recommended, this will save you money. If you don't have any devices that support more than two streams in either band, you'll get no benefit from a faster one.

The Pro. Bigger and beefier, with three streams each of 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz, for a total combined link speed of AC1750. This is the thing to get if you have lots of devices that only support 2.4 GHz, as the other two APs only have two 2.4 GHz streams.

The NanoHD. This is the 5 GHz heavy hitter, with four streams and MU-MIMO. It also has two 2.4 GHz streams. Total combined link speed is AC2030. It's the same size as the Lite, and supports recessed mounting and skins which allows it to blend into most decor. Anywhere you have stuff that needs to be on Wi-Fi and needs lots of speed, this is the thing to get.

All these APs are powered by Power over Ethernet (PoE). They include a PoE injector, so you don't need a PoE switch. You can connect these between the patch panel and main switch, just connect the LAN port to the switch and the PoE port to the AP's line on the patch panel.

Finally, you need the controller. This lets you manage the router and APs all together, as if they were a single device. The simplest option is to just install it on an Ethernet-connected PC. It doesn't need to run all the time, just for initial setup and later configuration changes and firmware updates. If you do want it to run all the time, which a few features do require, you can put it on a Raspberry Pi (cheapest option) or use a Cloud Key, Ubiquiti's dedicated device for it.

Can't really tell from this picture, but alot of times, it looks like ethernet, but it ends up not being terminated correctly, or setup for something like voice only or some other non-standard thing.

If it were me, I'd make a small investment in the following;

1. Some sort of cable tester - everyone has their favorite - look for one that can show you whether all the pairs are setup properly - http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-LinkMaster-UTP-STP-Wiremapper-and-Tester-62-200/100091453
   
   If you are lucky, whomever setup that panel wired it correctly, and the runs will test out. If you are not lucky, you'll need to take the next step and fix it yourself. This will require some more stuff;
   
2. a standard punch-down panel - something like this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067SC6/ref=s9_acsd_simh_hd_bw_bKkaDD_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=FGVJTXZ791HS9C3BHHBB&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=b40f1c79-82d3-5987-b1fd-b5c357ef4906&pf_rd_i=306629011
   
3. A punch-down tool - either a cheap one (https://www.amazon.com/CMPLE-Punch-Stripper-Voice-Cables/dp/B00NR2Z6MA/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504982800&sr=1-5&keywords=punch+down+tool) or one that is a little more robust (https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504982800&sr=1-3&keywords=punch+down+tool)
   
   There are many tutorials on the web on how to terminate Ethernet - essentially, you're going to need to make sure that the wires are terminated properly on the punch panel (in your living room) to the specifics on the keystone jack at the far end. Most likely, the jack at the far end looks something like this - https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Keystone-Ethernet-Compatible-Connector/dp/B014RAT7ZC/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504982947&sr=1-6&keywords=keystone+jack
   
   If you get the connectivity right, and that cable has all the pairs (8), you should be able to connect, and be on the road.
   
   Not sure where you are located, but usually Fry's or MicroCenter is a good place to source these tools.
   
   Holler back if you need more info.

I personally would buy another router. You can easily do what /u/michrech said but it seems like you don't like the prices (which I understand).

So yes searching "wireless routers" is a good term because 9 times out of 10 wireless routers have at least 4 ports on them. If I was in your position I would buy this router, or even this one. I linked these two because I have personally used them and i haven't had any issues with them.

Configuration wise, these routers should have a "Wireless AP" mode. Which will turn off the routers DHCP and just work off your main one, if you said you're running Cat5 cable (hopefully Cat5e).

The other configuration option you can do is to login into whichever router you get and turn off the DHCP server and then only plug ethernet cables into the 1-4 ports and NOT the WAN port. This will simply extend your existing router DHCP range to this new one. So you have options.

Hope this helps!

EDIT: Both configuration options I listed do the exact same thing...just different ways of doing them.

EDIT 2: I just now saw the second option /u/michrech listed and that does seem like a very viable option. Especially if you don't have a basic understanding of how to access a router's login page. It's probably a more plug and play option.

Wiring 101. Most of this other have covered.

1. Get a plan. Where is your head in, where do you want the jacks. Plan extra now. Need 1 either net, pull 2 wires, need 2, pull four, need four, pull six. 1 big switch is better than a bunch of little switches.
   
   
2. Pull at least cat-6. Cat 6a, or cat 7 is overkill.
   
   
3. The most expensive wire you will ever pull is the one that is 1 inch too short.
   
   
4. Inside walls are your friend, outside walls hate you. Stay away from stairs( lots of wood) Bath rooms, and kitchens will have extra pipes, be careful. Don't be afraid of cutting and patching dry wall, or oyu can be like me, and pay some one else to patch the drywall.
   
   
5. Running wires in the attic, great, use zip ties with a hole, and mount them at the peak. All the AC wire is on top of the rafters so you get separation; and the next guy up their will not stand on your cables.
   
   
6. Zip ties are great. Think gentle hug, not strangulation.
   
   
7. From the attic, you can see the top plate or drywall nailer. You will be going through 3 to 4.5" of wood, make sure your drill bit is that long.
   
   
8. For the device location cut in a Orange retro ring. See the four small holes on the corners. Hold the ring face to the wall, level it, make it even with the outlet, mark the four holes. Draw a line between the four little marks and cut. You did check for a stud before hand RIGHT. Single gang can fit 6 network connections, a double gang can fit 12.
   
   9)Use Keystone jacks, and a insert, and face plates in the field. 110 punch down in the closet. I would not recommend putting male ends on( BTW they are called 8P8C), use the jacks, face plates, and 110 punch down.
   
   
9. After the hole for the jack is cut, have some one lightly tap on the ceiling. You will be close, and you have plus or minus 14.5" to be in the same stud bay. Get a small thing of Pull string, Glow rods, and some electrical tape( go cheap, as cheap as you can find.
   
   
10. Some options for getting down the wall. No insulation, you can try to drop the wire straight down, tape the end of the wire onto a glow rod, put that end into the hole and push it down. Tie some small weights to the pull string and drop it down the hole. At the bottom, use a metal coat hanger, grid ceiling wire, or thicker steel wire to form hooks. Put a small hook on one end, and a 15 to 20 degree bend about 3 to 4 inch from the end. Don't be afraid to twist the hook arround to keep tension on the wire as you guiding it out.
    
    
11. Get a good punch down tool. Pick a or b, and stick with it.
    
    
12. Buy patch cables unless you need over 20 feet.
    
    
13. I would test with a laptop with a network port, go around and plug into each jack, just make sure you turn off the wifi first.
    
    
    
    
    
    

Some general thoughts.

You included a map. AMAZING.

1. You should be able to "convert" coax to ethernet. MoCA 2.0 Bonded Adapters work wonders and basically give full ethernet speed(~16x as fast as your internet). They work so long as the coax is not being used by satellite TV. If you're using satellite TV along that run, the DECA is the next best thing. DECA is 1/8th the speed but cheap kits can be had on amazon for $20 (still ~2x as fast as your internet). If you aren't doing network transfers either works. For 90% of people it's pretty much plug two adapters in and you're done. It's almost like magic. For the remaining 10%... MoCA filters, maybe fiddling with the 500 splits some cable-guy rushed into place 20 years ago, etc. Let me emphasize, it's pretty awesome, there's a reason why the reviews on the products are so awesome.
   https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Adapter-Ethernet-Bonded-MM1000/dp/B077Y3SQXR/ (you'll likely need 2)
   https://www.amazon.com/PACK-Broadband-Ethernet-Generation-Supplies/dp/B01AYMGPIO/ (this is a paired kit)
   latency associated with MoCA is ~3ms; latency from Wifi is 3-100ms. MoCA tends to be VERY consistent.
   
   
   
2. A switch is a switch to some extent. I generally buy whatever is cheap from TP-Link or netgear. As long as it's gigabit.
   
3. The best way to improve your wifi is to probably add on another access point (or router repurposes as an AP) and set it with the same network name(SSID) and password
   https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP225-V3-Wireless-Supports/dp/B0781YXFBT/
   
4. Flat ethernet cable is worse. At the same price, go for full, round ethernet... with that said, if being flat allows you to "get away" with it, it'll often work. I personally have used flat cables without issue and it often goes a long way with getting others to "approve". If your walls are white or you already have an existing cable... it disappears.
   

my advice: before you do anything buy a tester.

I understand your concerns about it, but a simple tester like this one from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Zoostliss-Network-Cable-Tester-Networking/dp/B06XZYXN63

That's all you need. if you look, the tester comes in two parts, a source side and a destination side. disconnect everything from the line, and test both patch cables on either end first, once you know you have known-good patch cables hook them up between the source tester, and the wall, then at the port, from the port to the destination side of the tester, and check the full length, if anything is wrong with how it's testing, you'll know that re-terminating or re-jacking, or replacing a patch, is required.

If everything tests ok, I'd cut the excess off the leads for two reasons, it's bad form, and it can actually cause interference if the run is quite long (on short runs it shouldn't matter, but I would do it anyways).

Once you know the cable is good (all pairs wired and connecting), you can move on to troubleshooting the endpoints - check the capabilities of both the computer and the device you're plugging it into at the panel (where all the wires are housed). If it's a cheap device (like they commonly sell for these types of installs), it's probably 10/100 only, and will need to be replaced. You'll have to devise how to do that, since I don't know what the panel looks like in your place.

My credentials: I've been doing networking, and computer-related work for 10 years, and for about 30 years as a personal hobby (since I was very young); I'm currently in the middle of an install with over 90 such ports, working with professional wiring technicians who do this all the time. I use the tools they use, and I have successfully done their job (though, I don't for work, since my company pays them to do it instead - they're cheaper per-hour than I am, but do a fantastic job - simply put, my time is better spent (according to the company) elsewhere).

I'm happy to revisit with any questions - I know there's a few parts here where I made assumptions about your knowledge level on all of this, so if I've confused you, don't be afraid to ask. Everyone is learning, so there's no shame in seeking information, and no judgement from me.

Good luck, have a great day.

Use the router for the powerline -- other users have mentioned the issue with double NAT, but keep in mind your powerline adapter, depending on how much you pay, will be much more limited in bandwidth than the gigabit ports on most modern routers.

If your concern is to extend your wireless network, I highly recommend the TP-Link AV500 WiFi Powerline Kit. I purchased one myself a few months ago and have it set up in my guest bedroom/office, with about 6 walls between me and my AC66U router. Speeds are fantastic, both wired and wireless. I have my laptop connected wirelessly, with my Pi and home server running wired (the adapter has 2 Ethernet ports), so it works out great and I get great N coverage on this side of my apartment now.

In the future, you can just purchase more modules to extend the network in case you have a house or a larger dwelling.

Hope this helps!

I have one of these in my basement right now. The depth is adjustable, so if you don't need it deep, it can be as shallow as 12in, and at 8u, its not that much space. Mounts to the wall really easily, though make sure its in a stud, because its not light. Here is what mine looks like.

It is a square hole rack, you would also need cage nuts with screw, just buy as many as you need, no need to spend the huge bucks on a full set when you don't need them.

The shelf that you see in mine is a basic 2U shelf.

I also recommend using a keystone based system, as it allows easy expansion and change. The patch panel you see in my rack is just a generic keystone patch panel, and it is filled with a bunch of cat6 keystones, which also go in the wall plates on the other end. They are punchdowns, but they make it really easy to put more in, or move them around.

The switch is a used HP procurve 1400-24g that I picked up locally with the rack.

The thing on the very bottom of the rack is a Power Distribution Unit, and its switched. I have the Modem, switch, and Samknows whitebox(that is not my router, the router is the R210ii running PFsense, the bottom server) all on the PDU so that I can shut them all off and on with ease. Even if you don't get a switched PDU, I do recommend you get a PDU, so that you can at least just run a single plug to the rack, and then have everything bundled in in the rack neatly without power cords all over the place. The specific one in my rack is here, but there are bunches of options.

What you don't see, and the other part I recommend is you get a small UPS for all your networking gear. My entire rack is all plugged into a Cyberpower 1350AVR, and while this is total overkill for just network equipment, I recommend at least a small UPS so that in the event of a power outage, your network remains up. The UPS will also keep your devices incoming power "clean", and make their inverters run cooler and last longer. Back when all I had was a router, modem, and switch on the UPS, I had a small UPS like this, and it would keep all my gear running for about 30 minutes during outages.

If you have any questions, ask away.

If you're already here asking the right questions I'm confident you can get through it.

I was expecting to have to spend a couple of hours getting the AP working the way I wanted, but the whole thing literally took five minutes. It was literally, make a user account and password, assign a vlan, click next a couple of times and that was it. There would be a little more to it if you're setting up a firewall and a switch as well, but it's pretty much as easy as it can be.

You will need something to run the Ubiquiti web interface on. They sell something called a cloud key for this, but you could also use a Raspberry Pi3, since they're cheaper and do the same thing. You could also run the Ubiquiti controller software on any Linux system that you have laying around.

As for the wiring itself, what I did was get a small wall-mounted rack, like this one. Then I ran the cables to a Cat 6 patch panel, like this. From the patch panel, I ran connections to my rackmount router and switches. I've basically only ever followed the bundle of snakes cabling model in the past, so it's satisfying to have everything nice and professional looking.

I used Cable Matters stuff for wall plates and keystone jacks, etc. You'll also need a spool of CAT6 Ethernet cable, and a punchdown tool. I have a 4-way wall plate near my workstation and another 2-way near my printers.

If you do run your own connections you will want to get a cable tester. I did create one bad punchdown and this tester found it no problem. There are lots of other testers out there and I'm sure nearly all would do the job.

Good luck!

By satellites I'm referring to dish satellites that you may want to mount on the exterior of the house for any cable service you want such as DirecTV and similar providers. Here's a picture.

If you wish to have the ability to hot swap the Internet feed to any room at any time, all you need to do is find the coax cable that currently runs into the house. From there, you extend that cable with this coupler only if the cable doesn't reach your preferred central point, and then that goes to the central point. So then all the coaxial cables are heading to the central point, you should always label regardless of how much you think you memorize where each cable heads to. Now you do the same thing, get the coaxial with the ISP feed, put a coupler on it and pick the corresponding coaxial cable the modem will be in and attach it to the coupler. Like I mentioned before, I would recomneed having the modem sit in the central point. It'll have the same outcome as if you were putting it in a room but this just ensures all your equipment is one place and prevents you running longer cables from one point to another because the modem is in one room and the central point is another.

Now for the ethernet wiring, one hole slightly bigger the size of a golf ball should do for coaxial and ethernet. This is an example of a good install. All the cabling goes to one location in the house, the cables are securely punched down to a patch panel which the patch panel is securely mounted on a wall rack. Here's some items that will get you a clean and professional look while not breaking the bank:

• Wall mountable 6u rack
  
• 24-port Cat6 patch panel
  
• Power distribution - A good old surge protector will do the trick, this just gives a clean look and is more reliable.
  
• 24 port ethernet switch - This is to activate all the ethernet ports throughout the house.

On an unmanaged switch it usually doesn't matter but make sure the switch support auto crossover. Usually if it is going to matter one port on the switch will be labelled 'uplink'.

To summarize: you can keep your router where it is if it's able to get link through that coax port. Make sure that Ethernet jack terminates to an uplinked switchport in your closet (TP Link is one of many decent and inexpensive gig switch brands. POE might be a useful feature to consider in a switch if you plan on adding wifi APs or IP phones later.

Also, if the Jack's are not well numbered or indicated, one of these ~$10 devices can prove to be very useful:
<https://www.amazon.com/Zoostliss-Network-Cable-Tester-Networking/dp/B06XZYXN63/>

Hope that helps

Nice place you got there!

First of all of all I would suggest getting a rack mount given that you have hard wiring through the house.

These would be the things you need;

-Rack mount

This is what holds all of your components in a rack type manner.

-Patch panel

This is what will allow you to interface with the hard wiring in your home. It’s essentially a Ethernet jack on your rack allowing you to activate and deactivate certain ports.

-A network switch of some sort (maby ubiquiti)

This is what will give you more ports for all of your wired devices, patch panel and WAPs. I recommend ubiquiti switches because they are high quality but you can start off small (they are a bit pricey)

-PDU

This is a special kind of power strip that is especially made for this kind of setup.

-Patch cabling

These are the Ethernet cables that will connect all the different kinds of ports on your devices.

-Access point for every floor.

These are what will provide WiFi to your house because the USG doesn’t have wireless.

-Router (USG)

USG stands for Ubiquiti Security Gateway, this is a firewall built in to your network, and a router. I highly recommend this one.

-And I would recommend going for a gigabit plan.

The gigabit plan is just so much better. It’s faster and it’s reliable.


Now the setup I recommended is a bit overkill for your current setup but given it is fully upgradable it wold be good.


DM me if you have any questions.

Okay, you have cat5 (minimum) in your walls.

make sure it isnt cat3, I doubt it but some builders are idiots.

You can put a switch in that panel, and a patch module or patch panel and rewire some phone jacks as network cables if you do.

find your phone port and see if the cable has the necessary twisted pairs. cat5 or cat5e should be somewhere on the cable.

if so. buy some cat5e/cat6 jacks on amazon and a punch tool, and maybe a cheap toner that lets you find the cable in the panel.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-10-Pack-Punch-Down-Keystone/dp/B00IO3HEN6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520418932&sr=8-3&keywords=rj45+keystone

https://www.amazon.com/SUNKEE-Quality-Ethernet-Telephone-Tracking/dp/B017TSNRDC/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1520419001&sr=1-3&keywords=ethernet+toner

If you're more spend happy, get some tools by fluke.

Do yourself a favor though, home depot? get some Klein electrician's snips. Thank me later.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Electrical-Scissors-with-Stripping-Notches-21007/100038995

oh and honestly, get one of these:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-12-3-4-in-Punchdown-Multi-Bit-Screwdriver-VDV001-081/203275492

I'm not really sure what you mean by lackluster. My AC Pros have all been wonderful and perfectly stable. Looking at my Unifi controller, I have pushed 1.57 TB of data through one of them just this week alone. I do have a high degree of control over the wireless network through the Unifi controller. Also in Unifi, there is really granular visibility about clients, interference, stats, etc...I have tried using various consumer grade wireless routers I have and put them into AP mode and my Ubiquiti AP's blow them out of the water in regards to stability, performance, and range.

If you are looking to have consumer grade ease of use with Ubiquiti, you will want to go with the Unifi product line and not get the EdgeRouter. So instead of the EdgeRouter, you would get the USG for $110. They are the same hardware, but the USG runs a different firmware than the EdgeRouter. You dont HAVE to use all unifi products...but if you use only unifi AP's only the AP's can be configured from Unifi, and the EdgeRouter can be configured via EdgeOS in the WebUI. Unifi...well...unifies everything in the same UI.


Take a look at this vid explaining the difference between EdgeRouter and USG: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvWOx3PvYFM


Adding 2 AP's for $80 (Lite) to $130 (Pro) for a total of $270-370...

Within that range is another option, the AmpliFi HD (By Ubiquiti as well) for $325:

https://www.amazon.com/AmpliFi-High-Density-Home-Wi-Fi-System/dp/B01L9O08PW

You also can get single mesh points for coverage to be used with your existing router, for $125 each.

I have not tried these myself...but with how dead simple they seem to be from YouTube vids...I am feeling pretty comfortable dropping this in my parents network and not having to worry about stability. There are tons of YouTube videos explaining the Amplifi product, pros and cons. It is really consumer friendly and the mesh technology is very flexible and you can change its physical configuration easily.

> Any satellites you wish to use on the exterior of the house, now would be a good time to run the cabling to the central point. Now you have ethernet and coaxial running from each room to the central point, from there you have the ability to choose what room has the ISP signal by just swapping the coaxial cable with the corresponding room.

Satellites? Would that be other rooms with a coaxial termination point? How does one hot swap the coaxial the ISP has data going to?

>Purchase a wall mount rack and run all the cabling in there instead of a wall enclosure that most contractors use. For the ethernet cables, you would punch them down on a patch panel. Though I recommended terminating them with RJ45 jacks and getting a keystone patch panel so it gives you the flexibility to move things around and troubleshoot.

Is a whole wall mount rack necessary I won't have more than 12 termination points I think. Would this patch panel work? Don't they come with the jacks? What is the cleanest way to go from the patch panel into the wall? Will I have a big hole in the wall where the cables go through regardless?

I really appreciate all the insight you're giving me on this. Should I just have the electrician place the cables where I want them and do the rest myself? I might get a friend more familiar with this to help me.

I suggest going with a tri-band wifi mesh system if you want to maximize your connection speeds, which usually is a little more costly but can give you better speed/latency.

https://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-wi-fi-mesh-networking-kits/

That's a decent place to look for some information. I don't always find their recommendations to be the best, but they usually do a pretty decent job of explaining various things they are reviewing and what to look for.

Google Wifi mesh doesn't score well in most of the reviews I've seen.

Eero Pro
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071DWXLYL

Netgear Orbi
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K4CZOBS

I listed the links to those last two because they are reviewed in The Wirecutter link above and you can see they test well, but they aren't in their top recommendations because of price mostly. Netgear Orbi does have some complaints about firmware as well. Those two above are all tri-band, while the ones that get the recommendations are in most cases a mix of tri-band and dual band devices.

As far as what ones offer a non-cloud management interface, I don't know on that front. Edit: From what I can tell, it looks like two of the recommendations they make, the D-Link Covr system, has a local web management interface as well as the Synology system. The Eero devices seem to be cloud based management, and I'm not sure on the Netgear Orbi but I believe I've set one of those up before locally.

1 - Yes

2 - I would use two lite's.

3 - Yes, but like a smart switch supporting vlans and multiple SSIDS

4 - This.

5 - Yes. They are documented well.

You probably should punch down those ends on a "better" patch panel like this:

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unshielded-Wallmount-Rackmount-TC-P24C5E/dp/B00008AWL3/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1466713111&sr=1-3&keywords=patch+panel

It doesn't have to be the exact one, it's just for reference. Keep in mind to keep interference down that can mess with your transfer rates that you will want to keep the amount of wiring that is untwisted to a minimum. Once you are punched down you can get a ton and probe kit, relatively cheap to check that you punched down the wire correctly and that it is terminated correctly on the other end as well, presumably in a keystone jack for a wall. This will also allow you to find which wires go where in your house. Also, you will have to determine which standard for wiring was used, T568A or T568B. You can check this before punching anything down by taking a wall plate out and investigating how the cat5e was terminate at the wall plates.

You can get a cheap line tester like this that will do the job fine.
https://www.amazon.com/Tonor-RJ45-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B00OUFX38W/ref=sr_1_18?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1466713437&sr=1-18&keywords=tone+and+probe

I've actually used this exact one at home when I've left my commercial fluke equipment at work. It feels cheap, but it does the job. Good luck, once it's done and done correctly it's very nice to have a wired home with the ability to add wireless access points throughout your home.

By gig blast I assume you mean fiber maybe? Here is the fiber version of the router. Ubiquiti Edgerouter X SFP - Router - Desktop - Black (ER-X-SFP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012X45WH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-C7sDbRNTZ9DC

Access points: Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eE7sDbCT7FFQT

The access points will act purely as a bridge from wireless to wired (aka not a router, just wifi) with your home's size I'd recommend probably 3 or possibly 4 of them depending on how well you want the wifi to reach. This type of wifi will be mesh meaning you'll only have one ssid and your phone will connect to whichever AP is closer automatically. (Youd need to download a controller software to a PC)

Again, this is just the most optimal setup and required a little bit knowledge of the devices and general networking to setup.

If you're strictly looking for good but plug and play this would be the best route: AmpliFi HD WiFi System by Ubiquiti Labs, Seamless Whole Home Wireless Internet Coverage, HD WiFi Router, 2 Mesh Points, 4 Gigabit Ethernet, 1 WAN Port, Ethernet Cable, Replaces Router & WiFi Extenders https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L9O08PW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oH7sDbKR37G0G

Hope this helps clear things up!

Sorry to hijack the post, but if I used a switch I already had with the R6300v2 on stock firmware as the AP, the switch would be the best way to route all my wired connections for the best speeds? Or should I go from modem to router to switch and connect all the wired connections then? I was also hoping to implement Pi-hole. Thoughts?

I think they meant something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Mount-24-Port-Keystone/dp/B0072JVT02/

"Keystone patch panel" is the search term you want. And don't buy your keystone jacks individually, buy them in bulk. They'll be much cheaper:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-25-Pack-Keystone-Punch-Down/dp/B004D5PFGW/

If you look throughout your house where the ethernet ports are, there's a good chance they're also keystone jacks. Picture these, with those keystone jacks slotted in to them:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plate-2-Port-Keystone/dp/B0072JVU8S/

Also, if you've never used it before, https://www.monoprice.com/ is your new best friend. I'd recommend always comparing prices between them and Amazon before buying something.

Okay then I would stay away from the proprietary Verizon routers and go either with the Archer C7 or the Asus AC-1750.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ABOJKS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1LKnyb9HYGH71

You will want to use the Ethernet jack that is coming out of your Fios ONT for the routers that I am recommending and if they only set up coaxial, it is an easy phone call to frontier to change it to Ethernet.

I can't speak about much on the TP-Link router but everyone in this community seems to recommend it a lot. I have a Asus router at home and it was really easy to set up as a router with frontier. And when you move the ASUS router can be easily turned into an access point that can extend your wireless easily.

So you could have:

Standard router plugged into a device that shoots a wireless signal to a matching device on a dedicated link (that'd be the wireless bridge in the setup; here's an example, I'm sure you could find cheaper options by looking around but that's a good brand) and you could plug whatever into that matching device.

Router>Radio (point-to-point link) Radio>Whatever you're plugging in.

​

That's only beneficial if you NEED a wired connection at the other end. If you can connect stuff wirelessly and just want good coverage I'd say to look into a meshed router system (again, a quick example of a good brand, but you could probably find cheaper). That lets you have multiple routers to re-broadcast the signal, but they use a separate, 'extra' wireless channel to talk to each other so that you don't get the same loss that you would with an extender (like the one you linked to).

​

Source: I work for a WISP.

Are you going to terminate the drops at the switch end with RJ-45 plugs or onto a patch panel? A patch panel is the best way to do it. But then the question arises where to put the patch panel? You can put the patch panel and the switch in a structured media enclosure flush in the wall. Or you can put them in a rack mounted on the wall.
 
When you are having the drops installed it's a good idea to pull an extra Cat6 cable at each location for future use. It won't add much to the cost but it will save a great deal of time and money later.

Best is to install a patch panel in the utility room instead of using RJ45 connectors. Make sure it says Cat5, Cat6 cable is a different wire gauge (thickness) Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6

There you could also place a switch: https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16833122822

One of the jacks in your house would link that to your modem and then all the network jacks in the house will be active.

Once you get that sorted out you might want to consider 1-2 additional wifi access points at strategic locations to optimize wifi coverage.

You could use a punchdown tool to push in each of the wires at the connections to make sure they all have good contact. Then use a tester like, this or this, to make sure all wires test out. I like the latter one, as it is nicer and it also can test coax cables.

No problem, I hope it's helpful.

That is a shitload of cables. I can't tell from the pictures, but hopefully they're labeled in some fashion (bedroom 1, kitchen, whatever) so that you know which cables lead to where in your apartment. The blue cables are likely the cables you need, but to be sure, just open up one of the wall ports in another room and look at the cable and confirm that (and the termination pattern while you're at it).

Regarding the incoming signal cable, are you using cable internet or DSL or fiber? Actually, if you tell us the brand and model of your modem, that'll answer that question (and a few others) pretty quickly.

Regarding switches, this Netgear unmanaged gigabit switch worked fine for me, and there's different versions with as few as 5 ports and as many as 24 (just get whatever can accomodate as many ports as you're trying to get networked). The switch in the picture below is a different one (a managed switch), but for your needs this one (or one like it) is more than sufficient.

Patch panel...I'd just browse Amazon and find something that has as many ports as you need. Unfortunately, you have a weird-ass distribution enclosure that doesn't easily accept rack-mount patch panels (which make things way way easier). I, too, have a weird-ass distribution enclosure (picture below).

Here's a picture of my network setup.

• Modem to the outside world is on the bottom left (connected to the outside world via the white cable into the red port) -- the coax cable coming out the bottom of the box is my TV signal, so ignore that for this conversation)
  
• Modem is connected via yellow cable to my router (white box, lower left in enclosure with big glowing blue square)
  
• Router is connected via the green cable to my switch (box wall-mounted below the enclosure)
  
• Router connects via all the other cables (orange and purple) to the patch panel (top right box in the enclosure)
  
• Patch panel connects to all the cables distributed throughout my house -- they're behind the patch panel, so you can't see them, which is the point of the patch panel (makes more a clean install and makes patching ports really simple). The patch panel I have is this one. It might fit your panel, but I can't guarantee it. It's also way more expensive than most patch panels, because LeGrand likes to charge a huge premium for their stupid proprietary crap (and I'm a sucker for clean installs).

So if you don't have Ethernet on multiple floors I would look at something like the Amplifi HD. There may be cheaper options but Ubiquiti makes a good product and it should be pretty easy to configure.

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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L9O08PW/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_a3hnDbVEJB9EC

After seeing your space (which looks different than I had pictured!) I'll give different recommendations than my other comment. (Thanks, BTW!)

Search for "1U blank keystone patch panel" to find the kind that has everything in one single row. That will maximize closet space. There are probably some 16-port types, but they will likely all be the same width since they're designed to go on server racks. In my brief search the only 16-port ones I found didn't have strain relief / cable management brackets, which are good for keeping the weight of the cable off of the electrical connections.

If the holes in the panel are right up against each other, you will need "Slim" Keystone jacks to fit alongside each other so tightly.

You'll notice the patch panels don't have convenient mounting holes facing the wall. To avoid using a rack or buying an adapter, mount it by screwing into a piece of wood with an angle bracket to attach the wood to the wall. Those pieces of wood could even form the sides of a box, with a cheap piece of plywood as a "lid" to protect the wires. Just make sure you can remove the plywood "lid" to get at the jacks.

I agree with moving the wires further back, though it might make it harder to reach them to attach the keystone jacks. You might have to get all the way inside the cubbyhole to work. Don't kink the wires when moving them. Ethernet has a minimum bend radius. Don't bend the cables tighter than the "O" you can make with your thumb and forefinger when you make an "OK" gesture. Doing so can affect the pair separation and 'twists per foot' in the cable, which is an important signal quality thing. Maybe cover the hole with the patch panel and its box lid.

If you use 5 Ghz, you should be able to get full speeds like I do. I get the same speed on WiFi, as I get if I connected via ethernet. You just need a good strong router (such as a TP-Link AC1900 (I use this one) or NETGEAR AC1900) and a good wireless adapter OR a good Wireless Bridge and connect via ethernet (I use a bridge so that I don't have to deal with Wireless Adapter drivers)

You can pick up a spool of Cat5e or Cat6 at Lowe's along with the RJ-45 crimping tool and a jar of RJ-45 connectors. I highly suggest also getting a cable stripper while you're at it. Your total outlay will be around $20-$25 for the tools, and about $55 for a spool of cable plus the jar of RJ-45 connectors.

After that, the important things to know:

Don't cut the insulation on the individual wires inside the cable. Don't try to strip the individual wires, don't nick them when you cut the jacket, DON'T don't don't! :) The crimping tool will squeeze them down hard onto sharp blades on the inside of the RJ-45 terminators to make the connection right through the insulation.

If you get a stripping tool - only rotate it ONCE, lightly, around the jacket of the cable. It should require some resistance to pull the cut bit loose. Strip a good six inches or so off the end of the cable - you'll want some extra length in the exposed pairs to arrange them properly.

Untwist the exposed pairs down to the jacket. Straighten them out completely. Now arrange them in the proper pinout: orange-white, orange, white-green, blue, white-blue, green, white-brown, brown. This is "T-568B" layout, and it's IMPORTANT. You might think you can wire it up any old way you want, as long as it's the same on both ends, and have it work - if you think that, you're WRONG WRONG WRONG. The order is important because the structure of the cable prevents crosstalk on pairs, and if you split the pairs up, you will have RF crosstalk and it will completely suck so don't do that.

That T-568B layout up there? It goes in with the locking tab on the RJ-45 connector facing DOWN, repeat, DOWN. Left-to-right, locking tab facing DOWN, orange-white orange white-green blue white-blue green white-brown brown. Learn it, live it, love it.

Consider a cheap cable tester to add to your arsenal. You may have trouble sourcing this at a Lowe's or Home Depot - frequently they either have no testers at all, or only have "pro" testers that cost hundreds of bucks. For your purposes, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Tonor-RJ45-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B00OUFX38W/ref=zg_bs_tab_pd_mw_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TJ654JVCX7SM9J4YE3GJ at $9 is fine, and can save you a lot of hassle.

Before you feed your nicely untwisted and properly laid out pairs into your RJ-45 terminator, snip them off cleanly about 1/2" from the jacket. Slide them all the way, carefully so they don't cross over on you but FIRMLY onto the exposed pairs, and so that the bottom of the RJ-45 slides OVER the jacket on the cable itself. When you crimp it down - hard, like you're shaking your girlfriend's dick-bag ex's hand - the little bar on the inside of the RJ-45 should clamp, firmly, ONTO THE JACKET, not just onto the pairs.

If you possibly, possibly, CAN remove the crimped RJ-45 from the cable by pulling on it... you did it wrong. Cut it off, re-strip, re-arrange, do it again. A properly crimped RJ-45 connector can hold your weight off the ground. Yes, seriously. THIS IS IMPORTANT, don't fuck this up.

I think that pretty much covers it. Oh, and you can pick up surface-mount raceway to run cable through while you're at Lowe's, if you want. It's square rubbery stuff that comes in 6' lengths (typically) and has sticky stuff on the back if you peel the paper off, so it'll stick directly to a wall, ceiling, etc. Stuff like this: https://www.amazon.com/Medium-Latching-Cable-Raceway-500/dp/B002DO164K/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1486775258&sr=1-3&keywords=raceway+cable

People here are happy to "halp".

>Can you make or link some suggestions?

What is your budget?

What speeds, up and down, do you get from your ISP? 100 mbps? 1 gbps?

>The main concern and goal here is hard wired console gaming performance. The second priority is hard wired TV streaming service performance as I don't have a cable subscription.

Anything from a TP Link C7 on up should be able to handle this.

This is a good article to get a handle on the current market:

https://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-wi-fi-router/

This router is often recommended here for gaming because of QOS:

https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-R7800-100NAS-Nighthawk-Ethernet-Compatible/dp/B0192911RA/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=netgear+x4&qid=1558466110&s=electronics&sr=1-2

NETGEAR Nighthawk X4S AC2600 4x4 Dual Band Smart WiFi Router

Got to say No to Linksys (quality of hardware, software, and support after Belkin buy out.)

Also, consider Ubiquiti gear. Look through the subreddit here for the recommended configuration (the recommended hardware depends on your ISP speeds.)

Get yourself a powerline adapter with an access point like this -
https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Extender-Powerline-Wireless-TL-WPA4220KIT/dp/B00HSQAIQU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473044783&sr=8-2&keywords=powerline+access+point

As you aren't too familiar with networking I'd say this is the easiest option. I would hazard a guess that this is also the cheaper option in all. Simply plug into a socket (next to the router) and plug an ethernet cable into it. Then take the second one and plug in where you would like the access point. This will then act as an access point.
Good luck!

Thanks for taking the time to reply!

I was heavily considering the EdgeRouter X, but wasn't sure what would compliment it well.

Do you know if the EAP245 has to be hard-wired?

Seems pretty affordable for a proper at-home setup.

I was considering the Ubiquiti AmpliFi, but I see mixed feelings on it.(Not the system though)

I have Amplifi HD and am very happy with it.

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I am an IT manager and have done a lot of testing of different AP's and routers and I have to say that the Amplifi HD is rock solid. I have never had an issue with it (over 1 year since install).

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My house (approx. 2,000 sqft w/ three levels) is a smart home to some extent with A LOT of devices connected to the wireless network. We have 3 laptops, 4 rokus (which are constantly streaming from my Plex server), 4 iPhones, two iPads, thermostat, Playstation 4, Wii U, two desktops, multiple Alexa devices, etc, etc.

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My wife does a lot of video editing and uploading to the web over the wireless is quick and not affected by other devices on the network, we are also gamers (COD, WoW, Sims) and the latency hasn't been noticeable.

If I was to do it right with a few hundred to sink in, it would look something like this:

• Router- EdgeRouter Lite or an Atom box running PFSense which might not be for you.
  
  
• Switch- TRENDnet 8-Port Unmanaged, or a higher port version, depending on your needs.
  
  
• Wireless- 2x Ubiquiti UniFi AC, they do have the much cheaper N models but AC is the latest.
  
  
• Living room- If you're going the AC route, get the beloved Asus AC66U, it's very simple to set up as a bridge and this is the performance I get with it.
  
  There it is, very expensive and very future proof set up. Maybe someone else can post their thoughts and recommendations :)

I’ll attempt to promote constructive discussion, even though wiring your home is apparently a colossal waste. /s

I think that enclosure is nice. Is there a reason you want it fully enclosed and lockable?

Here’s one that’s much cheaper: 12U 12in Deep Wall Mounting Bracket for Patch Panel - Wall Mount Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1OCOC7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PyONBbCFQKPA6

A patch panel seems pretty generic from what I’ve seen. I don’t necessarily think you can go wrong on what you pick as long as it supports the speeds you need.

Here’s the one I’m looking at: [UL Listed] Cable Matters Rackmount or Wallmount 24 Port Cat6 Patch Panel (Cat 6 RJ45 Patch Panel) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072K1OWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nAONBbKQRKHT3

When it comes to switches, depending on how many PoE ports you need you could get two switches. I’ve seen a few get a switch with only 8 PoE and then a regular 24 port gigabit switch for the rest of their devices.

I would also agree with putting in conduit if your budget will allow. Being able to pull new wire if needed would be very nice.

If you have satellite TV then you can use these DirectTV MoCA-esq things that are super cheap (like $20) and work great. At my old house I had this setup and got full speed connection very far from my router. On the other hand, if you have cable you have to buy way more expensive MoCA equipment. My new house has normal cable and sadly enough I had the same problem with wifi not reaching my room. Luckily my room had a coax connection and I bought the $100+ actiontec MoCA setup (which works great).

So since you said you have satellite, I believe the cheaper version should work, and I don't think it matters if you have DirectTV or not, it is just creating a connection similar to MoCA that runs on the frequency cable usually runs on. Not 100% sure if every satellite company is the same but it should be easy to check.

I found the thing I had bought in my previous house:

2 PACK - DIRECTV Broadband DECA Ethernet to Coax Adapter - Third Generation (with 2 AC Power Supplies) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AYMGPIO?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Took like 5 minutes to set up with limited networking knowledge. As for having both coax ports in use, you just place a splitter in one port and have one go to this device and the other go where it normally goes. I don't remember if the package comes with one but they're cheap.

The unifi APs will handle all of the roaming. They don't need the controller up and going to do it. They'll operate on different channels and leave it up to the devices as to which one to use at any given time. I have two and often don't have the controller running and my devices switch back and forth without issue.

I'd consider getting one of the unifi switches as well. Then you have the manageability that comes with that. It might make things run a little smoother, but it isn't required. This one is a good way to go to start with, it will also power your APs. This is the one I started with, though it is a little more expensive.

I like having the ability to manage VLANs through the switch itself, especially if you're running a server.

Thank you for your response! I consider myself tech savvy, but when it comes to the home network, my knowledge is basic. I planned on hooking the base up to the modem via router, and using the mesh wifi for the two satellites. Does that answer your question? If you don't mind, could you also tell me if it would be worth returning the RBK23 (2 Satellites) for the RBK 50 (one Satellite) if there were only a $20 price difference? I'm not sure what Extra I am getting from one or the other. Thank you!

RBK 23 on Amazon: Orbi RBK 23


RBK 50 on Amazon (Have a 20% off Coupon):Orbi RBK 50

Literally just went through this! I had the cm700 modem and it would drop connections to Comcast frequently. I went through a couple modem/ router configurations starting with the R7800 and at one point had the Netgear AC3200 router. Having gone through $500+ in networking gear I can recommend the R7800. I’ve got the Netgear R7800 sitting behind the Arris SB8200 and it seems to be a great combo. Handles my roommates and I across the apartment streaming and gaming at the same time. Each of us has a few devices over WiFi and then I’ve got some devices over eth. Dynamic QoS seems good and the UI is decent.

TL;DR: Get the Netgear R7800 and the Arris SB8200

EDIT: Formatting and links

This is more than you asked for, but I have this Asus router and I can't recommend it enough. The speed is great, and the admin UI is very easy to use. I'm actually buying 2 more to replace very old DLink access point and bridge, as this router can act as router, access point and bridge.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LFSDZCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_yQ-ADbJ2ETH33

Something like this, just make sure it is dual channel with both 2.4 and 5,and has access point mode. You can search around a bit more to find one that fits your budget a little better. You could also look to buy a used wifi router that has the ability to be put into AP mode on something like offerup.

Ideally for 170? Thats kinda a strech, considering 5+ years is really aging the router too, but heres a hugeee 70 dollar discount that should do you really well for a pretty long time.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0192911RA/ref=twister_B07VCGC77R?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

I would recommend the ubiquiti amplify router and mesh points. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L9O08PW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_46aYzbDF94GHV). If they don’t want to spend the money for the router and 2 mesh points the router and single mesh point would work fine. I have recommend the amplify rougher by itself for medium size houses (2500 ft^2) and 30 Mbps and they had great results.

Thanks for the info. One more question though, would something like this work?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSQAIQU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_a1sEybS93FCH7


I was reading the product details but I'm not sure how it works since all it does is connect to an electric outlet. Is this product something that will help with what I'm trying to accomplish?

You can do it that way, but it isn't recommended. Putting on your own male networking connectors has become bad form, sort of, over the last few years. They just aren't very reliable when using solid conductor cable and they are extremely difficult to install on stranded cable without the $50k machine they use in the factory... Someday your home terminated cable will fail for no apparent reason and it will ruin your life.

If I were doing it, I would run the cable and put a box in the wall. The cable is fine. I would pickup some old work low voltage boxes, and install a wall plate and use some keystone jacks and whatever jumpers you like.

If you are open to buying somewhere other than monoprice, I really like the Cable Matters keystone jacks nowadays. I like this punch tool but this knockoff works ok as well and if you are just doing a few than you could probably get away with the plastic thing that comes with each keystone jack... they eventually will work it might just take longer and you might have to dick with it a bit.

It looks like the stuff you have picked out will work, but it just might not be super reliable or aesthetically pleasing. Plus, what do you do if you move something? Now you just have a hole in the wall with some wires flopping around... If you put jacks on the wall they just blend in with all the other jacks on the wall if you remove the jumpers...

I have been really pleased with everything from Cable Matters lately. We terminated 1200 cables for a huge IP HD video system a few weeks ago using their stuff and only had 2 or 3 that had to be repunched and we had one cable run that didn't check and that was probably our fault pulling too hard and getting a kink in it. It's pretty reasonably priced all things considered.

Also, the cable you have picked out is great. It's pure copper and not copper clad aluminum (CCA). Never use CCA it's absolute garbage and won't ever work for anything. CCA will ruin your life.

EDIT: I just wanted to correct myself, we have been buying Honeywell Genesis cat6 cable lately... not monoprice. We have been getting a better deal through ADI global on the Honeywell stuff and it is very nice cable. The reel in a box is so much better than the usual mess... no more kinks so you don't need to pay someone $25 an hour to babysit some boxes and pay out cable and yell "stop!" over the radio all day when they have to sort a kink...

> I'll need to find a PoE switch strong enough to power all these devices

Ubiquiti Networks 8-Port UniFi Switch, Managed PoE+ Gigabit Switch with SFP, 150W (US-8-150W)

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Managed-Gigabit-US-8-150W/dp/B01DKXT4CI/ref=sr_1_19?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1541701054&sr=1-19&keywords=poe+switch

55 watt TP Link:

TP-Link TL-SG1005P 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet PoE Desktop Switch with 4-PoE Ports, 55W IEEE 802.3af compliant.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-SG1005P-Gigabit-Ethernet-compliant/dp/B076HZFY3F/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1541701054&sr=1-8&keywords=poe+switch
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-SG1005P-Gigabit-Ethernet-compliant/dp/B076HZFY3F/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1541701054&sr=1-8&keywords=poe+switch

96 watts:

BV-Tech 10 Port PoE+ Industrial DIN Rail Switch (8 PoE+ Ports | Gigabit Ethernet & SFP Uplink) – 96W – 802.3at

https://www.amazon.com/BV-Tech-Industrial-Switch-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B075FZQX14/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1541701054&sr=1-4&keywords=poe+switch

A lot of POE switches at amazon, you can sort through:

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_st_review-rank?keywords=poe+switch&rh=n%3A172282%2Ck%3Apoe+switch&qid=1541701042&sort=review-rank

Put your ISP provided modem/router in bridge mode and get a UBNT ERX, they're like 50 bucks on amazon.

And if you need a switch just look for any 5 or 8 port unmanaged/desktop switch from net gear or TP-Link like this one.

If you need a wireless AP also get something from UBNT, they're amazing for the price.

I would recommend you get a nice med range router maybe a high end one if you ever decide to get a faster connection. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008ABOJKS/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1451121920&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=asus+rt&dpPl=1&dpID=41KWJcCkZcL&ref=plSrch I suggest this as a baseline router only because I know that you can put custom firmware on it which expands the capability of the router and you can also put higher gain antennas on it such as theses one. /ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1451122112&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=9dbi+antenna&dpPl=1&dpID=41AVPgZSeHL&ref=plSrch I have 3 on my current access point and I am looking at getting 4 more for my Asus RT AC87U such covers the other half of my house/property.

Antennas aren’t your issue, your issue is that the router is quite dated.

It’s using 802.11n wireless technology, many many devices (most likely yours) are and have been using the new tech 802.11ac wireless. Which is much faster/reliable/etc.
Also your router only has one band, 2.4GHz which is often congested and slower older devices use this band. Newer devices use the 5GHz band which is faster, and new routers have dual band technology, which allows simultaneous use.

I highly recommend an upgrade. You and your wireless devices will appreciate the investment.

Edit: for $100 you can invest in this and that baby is sure to last you.
If that’s too much I can try to recommend something cheaper but you get what you pay for and I think that’s reasonable.

Any questions feel free to ask!

I've got a Trendnet TEG-s82g that works pretty well. It's cheap, it's tough, it's reliable, and it's easy to set up.

10/10 would recommend.

Thank you so much for your fast replies. Cant tell you how much I appreciate it. I will certainly set it up the way you suggest! Final question, would any of these switches do the trick?


https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Managed-Gigabit-US-8-150W/dp/B01DKXT4CI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501684043&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=ubiquiti+switch&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-8-60W-Unifi-Switch/dp/B01MU3WUX1/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501684043&sr=8-3&keywords=ubiquiti+switch

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-8-Unifi-Switch/dp/B01MZ32B1B/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1501684043&sr=8-5&keywords=ubiquiti+switch)

or would just the managed one do what i need? Unfortunately all 3 of them share the same reviews and questions answered on amazon so its hard to tell

So they pulled the cat5 to the various rooms, but didn't do any punchdowns? The little cover plate can be popped out and you can easily get the ports from anywhere.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-10-Pack-Punch-Down-Keystone/dp/B00IO3HEN6/

You should just need those. if you don't have the Keystone plates, those can also be easily obtained .. make sure to get the ones that have 2 holes, one for the coax port and one for the rj45

I have a ethernet passive hub that I made in my network bag. I use it as a manual port mirror. It works very well. I have one side as RX only for sniffing and the other side for sharing (RX and TX)

(Total of four ports/keystones, 1. Orig path in 2. Orig path out. 3. Tap RX 4. Tap RX/TX)

Very easy to make one yourself:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-25-Pack-Keystone-Punch-Down/dp/B004D5PFGW

Just remember to keep the wiring as short as possible between the keystones.

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Or you can just buy a pre-made one.

Get a Patch Panel, a Punch Down tool, a ethernet crimper, some ethernet ends (i prefer the EZ, but they are pricy), and a network tester. All that for $70 and you can terminate and troubleshoot all the cables you desire!

My personal kit is a little more expensive, but really the only thing I wouldn't trade for a cheaper tool is the tester. Crimper, Punchdown, Tester.

Either of these would work.

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You can buy just the "meshpoint" from amplifi and set it up easily with a phone. It's an easy fast setup process. https://www.amplifi.com/

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https://www.amazon.com/AmpliFi-Ubiquiti-Seamless-Wireless-Extenders/dp/B01L9O08PW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540510584&sr=8-1&keywords=amplifi+mesh+node

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Synology just released a new mesh node as well. It runs about $130 on amazon. In fact I think they pushed new firmware that lets any synology router run as a mesh node. https://www.synology.com/en-global/company/news/article/PR_router_MR2200ac

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https://www.amazon.com/Synology-MR2200ac-Mesh-Wi-Fi-Router/dp/B07HPSQZKN/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540510620&sr=8-1&keywords=synology+mesh&dpID=318CC53a0SL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

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You really need to use access points wired back to your main router with proper Ethernet or at least MoCA. That is the only thing that will give you the speeds your desire reliably.

Sorry I'm not entirely sure what this means, I'm fairly technical so maybe just a more general explanation. I'm more than happy to get the Orbi.

Is this what you recommend to get? Will I need to get anything else?

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Orbi-Whole-System-Tri-band/dp/B01K4CZOBS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523849870&sr=8-3&keywords=orbi%2BRBK50&th=1

Thanks so much for the details! So you're saying I can just grab this for now to start with? Or do I also need a separate AP for wifi devices? Love the idea of everything being separate so I can build up the system over time.

I am by no means an expert on what suits your situation best but I purchased this router a few years ago and I love it.

Unmanaged switches just connect devices.

Managed switches can do more; like monitor performance (via SNMP), create VLANs, aggregate multiple ports into a bonded interface, provide electricity to run other devices (power over Ethernet, or PoE) prioritise traffic via QoS, etc.

The managed version of your switch would be something like the GS108E, GS108T [can trunk/aggregate ports] or GS108PE [can provide PoE].

If you don't need any of the managed functions, an unmanaged switch is fine.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Managed-Gigabit-US-8-150W/dp/B01DKXT4CI/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=ubiquity+switch&qid=1554757555&s=gateway&sr=8-1 can do vlans. You would ideally have all your smart home accessories on 1 vlan, guest vlan, and private vlan (desktops/laptops) that you wouldn't want to have touching your smart home stuff

The easiest thing to do is leave the modem/router where it is and connect the router to an ethernet port in that room. At the panel, find the wire from the room where the router is located and plug it into a cheap switch like this. Connect the rest of the ethernet wires in the panel to the switch (or at least those wires that you want to have Internet access) and you're good to go.

You are approaching this correctly I think.

If you are running wiring you will want to pick a location to be the network rack. typically where the lines come in the house (but obviously that doesn't matter here)

Get a 19in rack and mount it.



Patch Panel for punching down your terminations there.

Get a shelf.

Probably looking at a 16-port switch? Maybe 24?

I like the Unifi stack for everything. lots of people say the edge routers, which makes some sense for one location I guess. It's a little bit more detailed UI. Literally the same hardware though.

I like the USG. If it were me I would probably put in the Pro, because rackmount, but that's stupid crazy overkill from a tech perspective. It would bother me irrationally, just the form factor.

Then you drop your Access Points in. It depends on how the house is setup, but you want to put them where you actually will use them. At 4000sqft, 2-3 should cover it, depending on layout.



> So looking for suggestions on setup. Was thinking about going all Ubiquiti gear but alot of people say it can be challenging to setup but great once you get it working. With the hassle of moving, young kids, and dealing with getting internet in the first place Im not sure I have time for something that will take a while to get working great.

It won't take much time at all to actually set it up. Physically setting it up will be the time consuming bit. The technical setup will be nothing to someone who runs a VM server. In fact you will do what I do and just spin up a headless ubuntu instance and install the controller. You click adopt a few times on the hardware in a pretty UI and it's done.

Some popular (and reasonably priced) routers:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Archer-C7-Wireless-1300Mbps/dp/B00BUSDVBQ?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=psdc_300189_t1_B00BUSDVBQ

https://www.amazon.com/RT-AC66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1750-Gigabit-Router/dp/B008ABOJKS

https://www.amazon.com/RT-AC68U-Wireless-AC1900-Dual-Band-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00FB45SI4/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1465599997&sr=1-2&keywords=asus+router

Both brands should be good-to-go out of the box, but people do like to flash either DD-WRT or Tomato firmware on them. This will give you some more options, but most likely overkill for what you're looking for atm.

Remember, it's not just the hardware. Distance from your router and your devices plays a large roll. If possible, use ethernet as much as possible or put the router as close to the clients as possible.

I bought this powerline extender recently and it's been awesome.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WPA4220KIT-ADVANCED-Powerline-Extender/dp/B00HSQAIQU/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1450724363&sr=1-3&refinements=p_89%3ATP-LINK

Just plug one into an outlet near the router, and the wireless extender one anywhere else in the house and push the buttons to sync. Couldn't be easier and the speeds are impressive.

1. Get this modem: https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6183-Docsis-Packaging/dp/B00MA5U1FW
   
2. Get this router: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-R6700-Nighthawk-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00R2AZLD2
   
3. Or this router: https://www.amazon.com/R7000-100PAS-Nighthawk-Parental-Controls-Compatible/dp/B00F0DD0I6
   
4. Profit
   
   Make sure you verify with your ISP that the modem is supported before purchasing.

If you want a affordable gigabit setup with Ubiquiti just run this setup.

• USG $110
  
• Unifi AP AC Lite $80
  
• TP-Link 8 Port Unmanaged Switch $25
  
• 1000' cat 5e $85
  
• 24 port patch panel $19
  
  If you don't have a gigabit connection you can swap out the USG for an ER-X which will knock off $50 but if you have the $50 to spend I would suggest staying with the USG so all your managed products are on the Unifi admin interface. You can also save some money by going with 500' of cat 5e if you don't need the full 1k foot spool.

Any chance you can use keystone jacks like these

Cable Matters 10-Pack Cat6 RJ45 Punch-Down Keystone Jack in White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IO3HEN6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ER3oybFZ7GT1Y

Much easier in my experience then buy cheap pre-termed cables. Or, look into hiring a pro.

Okay so heres my new plans for the design:

250FT Stranded UTP Cat6 - $45

Cat6 Connectors for UTP Stranded - $11

12 Port Vertical Mini Patch Panel for Cat6 - $20

8 Port Gigabit Ethernet Switch - $29

10 Pack Wall Plate 2-Port Keystone Jack - $10

10 Pack Keystone Jack Cat6 - $14

Total: $129, but previously $131 (100ft cat6 + connectors + wall jacks) and this does much more. Would that be good?

Thanks for the advice! Do keystones need to be rated exactly for Cat6a, or are they interchangable? I saw this 25-pack on Amazon for 29USD but they say they're for Cat6.

This is the punchdown tool I've got so I think I'm set there. I have ordinary wire strippers (very similar to these), would those work or would I have to buy something like this instead?

Buy a better router and you should have no issues. Also try to set the router closer to the bedroom area so the coverage will be better in the back. If it is only you then you wdon't need that much band with. Something like the R7000 would be sufficient.

I know you're probably looking for an unmanaged switch, but... just in case... I love my GS108T https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Gigabit-Lifetime-Protection-GS108Tv2/dp/B003KP8VSK

(The "Managed Pro" version has a web-interface and CLI, which I prefer. As opposed to the "Managed Plus" which can only be configured via GUI client running on your PC)

It comes in a steel enclosure, fanless, I have 5 and have not had any die over several years of operation.

2 PACK - DIRECTV Broadband DECA Ethernet to Coax Adapter - Third Generation (with 2 AC Power Supplies) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AYMGPIO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6ozRCb8YTWY44

I guess it's actually $8 each, whoops.

Also, I take it by the fact that you want the link that these are a good purchase? lol

It’s all practice man. Practice and decent tools will save you. I learned just from being an intern and making thousands of cables and I still make mistakes. Don’t get down on yourself. Get a pair of Klein snips, a crimper, and a punch down tool and you are set for 90% of anything. Need any help, send me a DM and I’ll give you some pointers.

Edit: also, get yourself a cheap tester like this one

So the builder ran Cat6 to 5 of my rooms + 2 access points. The other end of those runs all congregate in the basement, where the installer put an RJ45 on the end.

Because all the room installs also had coax runs (mandatory), I got an empty panel so I could use coax couplers and RJ45 couplers.

The cables I was trying to make were just 6-12 inch ones that connect that panel to my switch. Which, knowing what I know now I definitely would have purchased pre-made ones, haha.

It does appear the house is wired with Ethernet, and it looks like it was used for phones and also an old style punch down block (can't remember what those are called). You should rip that distribution block/panel out, and then wire all the Ethernet cables to a standard patch panel for example one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0072K1OWY/

Then you can put a switch in and use patch cables to jump from the switch to each wire (to each wall jack/location). At some point you'll probably also want to label them in the panel so you know which one is which

Also check the wall jacks in the various rooms to make sure they are using actual RJ45 ports and wired correctly, for example they weren't hacked together only to support phones or something

EDIT: you'll want to check the wall jacks in the various rooms first to see if they were punched down on the jacks in config A or B, so you know how to punch them down on the patch panel on the other end.

Running in passthrough or AP mode will be less strain on the device, so ultimately it shouldn't bother you. I've run $20 wireless routers as passthrough devices and not had issues.


You seem to have money to burn, looking at that pfsense setup, so why not grab a very nice wireless router? I run THIS at home and I know there are newer ones out now, but it's a beast.

Good luck with the electricity bills on that home built pfsense :/

It sounds like you want to connect three additional devices in the room with the PC. If that is the case, then you need a switch, not a router.

Since you alredy have a PC, and you have the cable from the router, that takes up 2 ports. Three additional devices will fill up a 5 port switch. In this situation, personally, I would spend a bit more and get a 8 port switch in case I add more devices.

Soemthing like this, or similar: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Internet-Splitter/dp/B00KFD0SEA

>Should I just plant a couple hundred dollars of gear up there?

Unless it's hardened gear (nothing on your parts list is) I wouldn't. High heat + consumer grade electronics = failure.

>My solution is to have the gear sitting in an office closet that will stay cool and run the cable line to the modem there.

This would work fine, as long as you can keep the runs under 100m (gigabit spec on CAT5e). Also make sure you terminate everything properly.

Another option that comes to mind is stick a hardened switch in the attic then drop a single gigabit run from that down to your Linysys router in the office closet.

Something else to keep in mind is that for roughly the same $200 you are spending on that router you could get an EdgeRouter and AP and have better performance all the way around. There are also cheaper switch options.

I'm not sure. My home network works fine atm. I'm giving my current ASUS router to my mother, and am looking for an upgrade.
I thought I could come here and see recommendations for a fast newer router, but I'm seeing this Ubiquity option, and am interested.

Go with a "name brand", and look for the best warranty, highest rated total throughput (per port, and "switch fabric").

I'm using a TRENDnet 8-port under my TV, has worked well for me for nearly a decade, quiet (fanless) and simple; their metal-enclosed network switches have a limited lifetime warranty.

I have and use a NetGear ProSafe GS108T

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-GS108T-200NAS-GS108Tv2-Lifetime-Protection/dp/B003KP8VSK/

Power it from my Cisco 3750X, works great!

I've used this one a number of times and have been extremely happy with it. BUT, it's only Cat5e and only 12 ports.

Maybe try something like this it's still only 12 port but if you want wall mount you could put two side by side?

Gotcha. So Extenders and powerline adapters suck.

I’ve read about the Orbi solution too. You say that I should get the RBK50 but would getting the RBK30 be that much slower? Especially since charters spectrum will just give me 100mbps down and 15mbps up? If I can save $100 going with the RBK30 and the speed difference is negligible, I would prefer it. But if it makes a drastic change, I could dish out the extra $100.

Which Ubiquiti cameras are you using? The dome cameras support both standard PoE and 24V while the G3 series only support 24V.

This Ubiquiti switch does both.

I realise you are trying to save money, but not a lot of switches do the 24V option if that is what you will need. Have you considered just using PoE injectors? That would be the cheapest way IMO.

So I'm really new at all of this so I'm having a bit of a hard time following. Would this work (the reason I'm asking about this specific one is because I saw someone else recommend it in a similar thread)? Or could you recommend a product that would?

These are helpful little things Zoostliss Network Cable Tester RJ45 RJ11 RJ12 UTP LAN Cable Tester Networking Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZYXN63/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oGpvCbWQEFE94 to make sure the wiring is all correct if the issue persists I would then try requiring TIA568B.

I've looked around on Amazon, the issue is I don't know what exactly is good, and what is useless filler info.
https://smile.amazon.com/R7000-100PAS-Nighthawk-Parental-Controls-Compatible/dp/B00F0DD0I6/ref=smi_www_rco2_go_smi_3905707922?_encoding=UTF8&crid=P3UUTEDWLC8P&ie=UTF8&keywords=router&qid=1562888803&s=gateway&sprefix=Router%2Caps%2C172&sr=8-9


I saw this one, $150 price tag which isn't a lot. I am willing to spend upwards of 250 for a good, reliable router.

DirecTV made up their own 100Mb-over-coax spec (named DECA), and you can get the adapters relatively cheaply (in the ballpark of the cost of your ethernet cable). For instance:

https://www.amazon.com/PACK-Broadband-Ethernet-Generation-Supplies/dp/B01AYMGPIO/

I use these to get to Roku devices where I have a coax port but not an ethernet port nearby.

The upside is that they are way cheaper than Moca adapters (like ~10% the price), they can be powered via USB (so you could probably plug the adapter on the computer end into your computer rather than using a power brick, and maybe do the same on the router end), and they have been very reliable for me (can't tell the difference from just plugging in an ethernet cable directly).

The downside is that it is only 100Mb, and you can't connect them to the same coax cable network as you connect things other than DirecTV equipment to (so if you have all your coax runs tied together somewhere and you have cable service, they wouldn't work).

For me, I don't care about the downsides, because Roku boxes only support 100Mb ethernet, and I don't have anything else using my coax wires. You'll have to decide if they are good enough for your needs or not.

I second this. If you have an unused coaxial in the room there is a good chance it runs down to the basement (if your router is in the utility room)


Edit: to add link for all you'd need to buy

How does this one look? I have some Amazon credit I can use. Plus, I've got Prime for fast shipping. The vertical aspect isn't necessary, but it's cheaper than the horizontal equivalent. It comes with the bracket for wall mounting.

Just out of curiosity, how could you tell just from looking at it that it was a 66-block panel? 110-blocks are more compact?

EDIT: I just realized that the one in your Home Depot link is nearly identical to the Amazon one. INTELLINET vs Cable Matters.

They are called "keystone patch panel" and "keystone jack inline couplers".

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Mount-24-Port-Keystone/dp/B0072JVT02/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Keystone+Jack+Panel%2C+24+ports&qid=1573167491&s=electronics&sr=1-3



https://www.amazon.com/Listed-VCE-25-Pack-Keystone-Coupler-Black/dp/B075ZPGV1H/ref=pd_sbs_147_4/140-9004642-5057103?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B075ZPGV1H&pd_rd_r=232cd558-643d-485c-9024-c39bb931cd96&pd_rd_w=1YmK2&pd_rd_wg=dXn7q&pf_rd_p=52b7592c-2dc9-4ac6-84d4-4bda6360045e&pf_rd_r=583GG9F0ETTF1KEJZKWG&psc=1&refRID=583GG9F0ETTF1KEJZKWG

EDIT: Refreshed this old page and saw someone already posted a good patch panel.

If you want CRAZY CHEAP - https://www.amazon.com/PACK-Broadband-Ethernet-Generation-Supplies/dp/B01AYMGPIO

these are a lot slower than MoCA adapters but if you can get by with <100Mbps it's solid.

My father is using these for video cameras in an outbuilding that gets hit with lightning around once every other year. Just as good as the MoCA adapters that cost 10x as much and he only needs around 30Mbps of bandwidth for cameras + maybe watching youtube.

This might be the greatest bot I've ever seen. Who owns it and how can I use it?

Petty attempt

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-X4S-MU-MIMO-R7800-100NAS/dp/B0192911RA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458177640&sr=8-1&keywords=x4+nighthawk

This cheap Netgear access point would cover at least the bedroom it is in. Possibly all of the rooms. It would help to have a rough floorplan of your apartment to get a better idea.

I have a [Ubiquiti UniFi AC In-Wall AP] (https://store.ui.com/products/inwall-ap) in my guest bedroom. It is the farthest room from my UniFi AC Lite (my main access point) and it was not getting a great signal.

For the "hole in the floor" I'd get something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Surface-Mount-Double-107093/dp/B0069MF8ZA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1426802562&sr=8-2&keywords=Surface+mount+jack

And some of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-10-Pack-Punch-Down-Keystone/dp/B00IO3HEN6/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1426802672&sr=1-2&keywords=Keystone+jack

That's a 10 pack obviously.

Or just a couple of these for both ends:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DRQTZVO?psc=1

I like keeping both ends of a long run mounted and stable. That way they are less likely to fail. The more a cable can move the more it is likely to fail. So use some sort of staple on the long run.

So I've used things like this:
http://www.amazon.com/RG6-Cable-Clip-Black-pieces/dp/B000I98Z1Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1426803019&sr=8-2&keywords=Cable++staple

None of this is all that expensive and makes the install much cleaner. My motto is do it right the first time so I don't have to fix it later. I've wired 4 of my places and never really had any issues.

Go for Ubiquity if your house is big, say 2000sq/ft+, multiple stories and thick walls. because you need to setup at least 2 APs to cover the whole house.

If not go for Netgear R7000

https://www.amazon.com/R7000-100PAS-Nighthawk-Parental-Controls-Compatible/dp/B00F0DD0I6/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1537944464&sr=1-2&keywords=netgear+r7000

Its definitely much more expensive then R6700 but its worth an invest. Still within your budget also.

​

my own experience - they didn't work for me in certain parts of the house. Possibly because I had multiple breaker boxes. maybe a different circuits?

So I've since switch over to using these

They obviously cost a bit more than power line adapters. But in my case, they're working well. I have one connected to the cable TV junction box in the basement and then another adapter on the 2nd floor. On average, I've been getting 700-900 mbps on local network and full speed via my external ISP connection.

You can similar adapters for $20 for pair. But they're only 100 mbps. https://www.amazon.com/PACK-Broadband-Ethernet-Generation-Supplies/dp/B01AYMGPIO/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537200165&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=DirectTV+ethernet

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Orbi-Home-WiFi-System/dp/B01K4CZOBS

This is the two satellite package. Depending on budget and sq ft you could definitely be fine with the one satellite package.

I would put a standard gigabit switch in your bedroom, not a router. You can pick up a 4 port Netgear at Walmart for like $25. Here's on for $17 on Amazon TP-Link 5 Port Fast Ethernet Switch | Desktop Ethernet Splitter | Ethernet Hub | Plug and Play | Fanless Quite | Unmanaged (TL-SF1005D) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FNFSPY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_37XyDb2J1S5F7

As far as an AP this Netgear appears decent
NETGEAR AC1200 Dual Band Wireless Access Point (WAC104) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LFSDZCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_z9XyDbTK0BJ4Q

Really you could just drop that AP in, it has a built in gigabit switch. But I prefer single use devices.

Just go with a gigabit unmanaged switch. I have used this one multiple times and really like it. For only $23 you cant go wrong: https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unmanaged-Gigabit-GREENnet-TEG-S82g/dp/B00C2H0YFU/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1494278927&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=gigabit+switch&psc=1

I will try upgrading my router first. I currently have is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008ABOJKS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


What's the best router I can get? There's a 300 dollar Asus router. Should I try that one first? Also I have two WiFi connections from one router now. One called myWifi and the other is myWifi5 for 5ghz. Should I combine them to have the same ssid? If upgrading fails I will go for moca first as it makes a lot of sense. Any moca recommendations?

You don't necessarily need a box, but it's definitely worth terminating to a proper keystone jack and wallplate. Wallplates come in 2, 4, and 6 port versions, so you can get all your runs coming out a single-gang plate. Having wires just sticking out of your wall is definitely ugly, and may or may not violate your local code.

Instead of actual boxes, you can use old-work low voltage brackets like this to mount your wallplates. I actually prefer these, since they give you lots of in-wall access if you ever need to fish another cable through. I've been using the new-work version as I've been renovating my house and pulling ethernet to each room while I have the sheetrock down.

Another option, but very much inline with what others have suggested, a 12 port wall-mount patch panel:

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466764939&sr=8-1&keywords=tripp+lite+12-port+wallmount+cat5e+patch+panel+568b+rj45+ethernet+n050-012

They come with their own mounting bracket and might be a little easier to work with in your situation. You won't have to buy any extra pieces to make that work in your wiring closet. Also, much cheaper (per port) than the Leviton equipment you were first looking at.

Looks like the top module with the yellow cables is a patch panel of sorts. I think I see RJ45 Jacks facing down there. You would need a network switch with enough ports (example) to connect each of those ports, then one to your router. Once that side is done, you should be able to connect wired devices to the other end of any of those ports.

The blue cables at the bottom are wired for telephone, not data. The master line from the phone company goes in, then all of the other cables are connected to it in a hub fashion.

Netgear have a couple of switches that I've debated throwing inside a wall - They both are PoE powered so you just need to get one Cat6 cable to them. That said, it's not cheap, so almost less headaches to just run more cable :)

5 ports w/ PoE

http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-ProSAFE-Gigabit-Switch-GS105PE-10000S/dp/B00J8NAWZ8

8 ports w/o PoE
http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-GS108T-Gigabit-1000Mbps/dp/B003KP8VSK

For myself, I just connect the powerline adapter to a switch in my room which is then connected to all my devices, including a secondary wireless router I just use for phones mainly. My gear is a little dated, though, and nowadays you can get all that rolled into one device for a good price. For example this low end model or this high end model both give you a single port adapter to plug into your router, as well as a destination adapter with multiple ethernet ports and its own integrated wireless access point.

> Are you saying that I need a piece of hardware called a switch that connects to that box ?

Yes. A switch connects multiple Ethernet devices together in one network.

> Sorry man lol can you ELI5? Any online tutorials?

For a basic switch there really isn't much to explain, they are literally plug and play. You connect all your Ethernet cables, connect the power cable and that's it. As long as one of the cables connects to your router it will work. Undamaged or "dumb" switches have no configuration.

Here is an example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KFD0SEA/ You can get more or less ports as you need depending on how many cables you have.

The potential issue is not the switch but if your cables are connected properly. Often network cables are wired for phone lines which will not work without fixing them. If you can post a picture of your box in the basement we can tell you if they are connected correctly.

Trendnet 8 port gig switch - metal case

I've had it for over 4 years, still going strong, never any issues.

Remember that you will have only 7 ports available for devices as one port is connection with router. 16, 24, and 48 port versions exist, but cost considerably more.

Switch daisy chaining works, but if you can avoid it, it is better.

Nope, Asus made one too. I think they're pretty similar.

https://www.amazon.com/R7000-100PAS-Nighthawk-Parental-Controls-Compatible/dp/B00F0DD0I6

A patch panel is just connecting two wires together. They are mostly used close to a switch for quick and easy connections. In your case though, you need reroute them to a closet in a conditioned area. The patch panel has no electronics. This is a patch panel. You do not want to put any switch up there, it's just too hot.
Also, check your wires, most importantly. If they are cat 5 cables, not 5e or 6, you won't be getting gigabit speeds.

I replaced it just now with this:

AmpliFi HD WiFi System by Ubiquiti Labs, Seamless Whole Home Wireless Internet Coverage, HD WiFi Router, 2 Mesh Points, 4 Gigabit Ethernet, 1 WAN Port, Ethernet Cable, Replaces Router & WiFi Extenders https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L9O08PW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XHPXBb7896XJB

Liking it so far!

8 port managed POE switch: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Managed-Gigabit-US-8-150W/dp/B01DKXT4CI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497803035&sr=8-2&keywords=ubiquiti+managed+switch

AP (1 every 4 rooms): https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1497803133&sr=1-1&keywords=ubiquiti+access+point

24 port switch to feed APs: https://www.amazon.ca/UBIQUITI-US-24-250W-UNIFI-Switch-24-Managed/dp/B00OJZUQ24/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1497803253&sr=1-2&keywords=ubiquiti+managed+switch

Router: I'm not sure, my company actually orders custom-made little PCs that we run OpenWRT on. I assume Ubiquiti routers would be nice though, judging by my experience with other pieces of their equipment

aaah I see. So I would probably have to get a router like this that has that one seperated yellow Rj45 port instead of just a coax port?

Something like this?

So something like a combination of these?:
https://www.ui.com/edgemax/edgerouter-x/ Edgerouter X for upstairs ethernet connection
https://motorolanetwork.com/cable-modem/mb7621.html MB7621? (Modem) https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-R6700-Nighthawk-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B0192911RA?th=1 Netgear AC2600 Router (I think that would be big enough, but might upgrade, the house is 3200 with basement, 2300 without)

Use a toner/cable-tester to see how the wires are connected from the room to the patch panel. Something really cheap like this will work.

Thanks. I found this patch panel from Tripp-Lite. Is this something I can do myself if I'm a total noob or should I bring a pro in to do it for me?

Most APs only have 1 port. But you can buy a regular WiFi router, turn off the DHCP server, and use it as an AP with 4 ports (some will let you use that wan port too, 5 ports)

Example: NETGEAR AC1200 Dual Band Wireless Access Point (WAC104) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LFSDZCU/ (get the used one for $25)

Example: TP-Link AC1200 Smart WiFi Router - 5GHz Gigabit Dual Band MU-MIMO Wireless Internet Router, Long Range Coverage by 4 Antennas(Archer A6) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1L5HX1/

Oh, make sure you run multiple cables to the room to match the number of devices (Xbox, PC, TV, etc.) just to avoid a switch taking up space in the room.

I'd recommend a modular keystone patch panel to plug all the cables into (you'll need a keystone in each end): https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Mount-24-Port-Keystone/dp/B0072JVT02

A rack mount where you can mount the patch panel and a switch:
https://www.amazon.com/NavePoint-Vertical-Mountable-Server-Hardware/dp/B01M05Y5KR

You could also go with some other rack mount or even a small rack cabinet. I linked a space saving option, perhaps not the prettiest ;)
You can then get a rack mount 16/24 port switch and mount it right next to patch panel and get a bunch of short patch cables to connect stuff up.

You don't need gigabit or much bandwidth (usually way below 2 Mbps) for gaming, just low latency. An EdgeRouter X with SQM at 100 Mbps could be better than a congested 1000 Mbps link / congested Wifi without SQM when it comes to latency.

I was referring to a keystone patch panel like this: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Mount-24-Port-Keystone/dp/B0072JVT02/ The keystone patch panels can have any king of keystones in them: HDMI, Cat5, Cat5e, Cat6, BNC, etc. So, calling it a "Cat6" patch panel is silly.

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The one that you linked doesn't use keystones, so it's legit. And if it's properly shielded, it could be considered Cat6a

Is the original coax is going through a hole in the drywall or an actual wall plate?

You could get a

punch down tool
(1) keystone jack wall plate
(1) cat5e/cat6 RJ45 punch down keystone jack
(1) cat5e/cat6 RJ45 punch down surface mount box

The setup would be to make a run of your Ethernet cable (solid core) between the ONT and router. Terminate the Cat 6 in the basement with the surface mount box and attach a patch cable between it and the ONT. For the router side you would do the same except using a wall plate instead. If no wall plate then you could get two of the surface mount boxes.

You can get single pieces of what I linked at most home stores or places like Micro Center, etc.

Right, you'd just get a keystone patch panel like this one to hook them into:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Mount-24-Port-Keystone/dp/B0072JVT02/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1466768756&sr=1-1&keywords=keystone+patch+panel

get yourself a cheap cable tester, something like this.
http://www.amazon.com/Tonor-RJ45-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B00OUFX38W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462121743&sr=8-2&keywords=cat5+cable+tester

Check that all 8 wires are connected correctly.

Like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-12-Port-Vertical-Bracket/dp/B00UVQI8B6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539645989&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=12+port+patch+panel&dpPl=1&dpID=31Q-r3jMqcL&ref=plSrch

Like this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UVQI8B6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_Y5QKDb9VV6NDQ

Ah gotcha. What would you recommend to replace the EA4500?

I'm eyeing the AC2600 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0192911RA/

Could try a network cable tester like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZYXN63

In that pricerange I would get something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-AC1200-Wireless-Access-WAC104-100NAS/dp/B01LFSDZCU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=access+point&qid=1565608644&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Okay.

Then should I get 2 Amplifi HD sets(https://www.amazon.com/AmpliFi-Ubiquiti-Seamless-Wireless-Extenders/dp/B01L9O08PW)

Or 2 Amplifi HD base routers(https://www.amazon.com/AmpliFi-Ubiquiti-Seamless-Wireless-Extenders/dp/B01L9O07FS?th=1)?