(Part 3) Top products from r/audiorepair

I would take the driver assembly off of the frame (aka remove the thand use an epoxy specially formulated to bond plastic to glue the pieces together. I recommend JB PlasticWeld. You probably want to practice on something else before you try it on your cans, since it dries super quick and you only have one shot at this.

One that has fully cured (it says 1hr but definitely give it a full 24hours), I would wrap the cracked part of the frame tightly in a self-sealing tape. This is a rubber tape which resembles electrical tape but it has no 'adhesives'. What you do is stretch it out as you wrap it and then tightly overlay half of the width over your last pass each time. It will fuse to itself and should support it pretty well. Make sure you have enough clearance to put the layer of tape on and still reattach the driver assembly back on, because once it's one there it's not going to come off without a huge fight (which is the whole point). Again, practice beforehand on something else. I personally use the 3M brand all the time with good results, and it's super cheap. Link.

Good luck.

Does it sound anything like this?

If not, can you record it?

I suspect it's not the Sansui. The headphone out is just resistively tapped off of the speaker out. This means that you should hear the exact same thing through the speakers and the headphone jack.

Connecting the Sansui to your computer has the potential to create or reveal all sorts of interference. The above sample is from a cellphone communicating with a tower, but the computer itself is full of all sorts of noise. It could be that everything the computer attempts to record will have this problem.

Make sure you're using the 'line in' and not the 'mic' connection on the computer. Microphone inputs have a large amount of gain and this will only cause problems if the source is capable of driving line level inputs (the Sansui definitely is).

Try recording from another source, preferably something battery powered that has no wireless capability. If it's not plugged in to anything else then it cannot easily conduct interference. It can still act as an antenna for radiated interference though.

Try using an isolator to see if that helps. This will use a transformer on each channel to break the conductive path between the devices and only pass audio frequencies through. Useful for ground loops but not for radiated interference pickup (like the cellphone example).

Hope that helps.

Remote viewing is now something I'm considering down the line for some of our other conference rooms. So I'm thinking s solution like AirMedia is probably overkill for our immediate needs. I'm still going to have them Demo it for my company because it's damn cool looking and potentially the cost will drop in the next year or two, as the technology improves and matures.

I think I've found a solution that works way better then what I had originally suggested though. Especially since the install has to be as clean as possible.

My plan now is to mount the projector on the ceiling connected to a Wireless HDMI receiver, and have the a 4 or 5 port wireless HDMI transmitter in the middle of the conference room table.

Using something like this -

[Belkin F7D4516 ScreenCast] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NYPC1U?ie=UTF8&tag=thewire06-20)

Then anyone can bring their device in and connect easily. If there's a group of people, then if needed whoever can change the input and display their device on the projector I may still include a dedicated laptop or All-In-one, just to have something always available.

The only drawbacks I can see is the slight compression and lag, due to it being a wireless solution.

Another product that I've been looking into is -

[Netgear PTV3000] (http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Push2TV-Wireless-Miracast-Certified/dp/B00904JILO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395850677&sr=8-1&keywords=Netgear+PTV3000+Push2TV)

The main issue there is that from what I understand the laptop \devices have to be either Miracast or WiDi compatible. We did some initial testing on some of our standard issue laptops using Intel's WiDi compatibility checker.

What we found is that on most of our laptops, everything is compatible EXCEPT our WiFi cards... So who could present wirelessly would be extremely limited.

TL:DNR - basically what you suggested only wireless.

Diagnostically, it is ideal to change only one thing at a time, so using the same input as you already use is a good start.

One of these cables will work properly: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6

Note that it is 3.5mm TRS to 1/4" TS. That's important. :)

22 hour old post, you'll be best off just posting again so people see it.

Make sure to remove the referral code from your amazon link. A sanitized link will look like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042F3K9W

Okay I can definitely understand why a car amp wouldn't be suitable for this. Where would I be able to find a PA or plate amp? Any examples so I have a place to start? Thanks!!!

Edit:
I just looked up a few PA amps and I guess I want to know if brand is important here. I assume a quality brand should last longer, but will a no name product have a significant quality loss?

An example is this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0099XQBD4?pc_redir=1413693631&robot_redir=1
What's your opinion?

Okay this is I've the 8th edit but I would also like a amplifier that can use subwoofer preamp and I really don't know how to tell if an amplifier can use this signal or not

Consumer grade R2R machines like that usually haven't even been turned on for at least a couple decades, so pretty much all of them need work these days. Assuming the electronics are OK, you should be able to get it functional enough to use as a tape echo in a couple hours.

Get a bottle of rubbing or denatured alcohol. Remove the front panel (might have to remove a few transport pieces first). Check the grease on the moving parts (bearings, levers etc.). It's probably sticky and gross after all these years and should be cleaned off. Don't replace it with WD-40, use some kind of machine oil or lithium grease. Check the rubber parts - idler wheels, belts, pinch rollers. If they are real hard and cracked (or turned to goo), you're shit outta luck unless you got spares or want to spend a bunch of money. If they are just dirty (they probably are), clean them up with isopropyl alcohol or preferably rubber renue. A lot of folks say that alcohol will damage the rubber parts but in my experience that's bullshit.

Clean any switch contacts and pots with contact cleaner. At the very least wiggle all the controls a few times to make sure everything works.

Have fun!

I would try the Pioneers first, when they are on sale. Sometimes they go for around $60. Great little speakers. I'm not too caught up on modern speakers though so don't only take my word for it.

lots of people recommend this

As an aside, I think I'm going to order some of this 30 AWG wire instead. The kind I got is just too thick/bulky. This 30 AWG wire should be fine, right?

You need a mixer, like this, or maybe this would do.

just wire this in reverse; http://www.amazon.com/Speaker-Selector-Switch-Switcher-Splitter/dp/B0043JBLC0

I suspect the dialogue is missing because the XLR input is expecting a balanced signal. What you'll want to do is break out the 3.5mm stereo cable to a pair of 1/4" mono plugs, using something like this, and run those to the subwoofer.

while I fortunately have no experience with it on speakers, there's a product called Natures Miracles that has worked miracles on area rugs and bedding. You can get it at most pet stores.
https://www.amazon.com/Natures-Miracle-Destroyer-Eliminator-P-5727/dp/B003I5VTRW

I can pick up a half decent multimeter (Amprobe AM-510 perhaps? 50USD on ebay), then learn/do the troubleshooting. Then if it turns out I need to replace the power transistors I could pick up something like this Hakko digital soldering station? Would those potentially be sufficient for the job?

I've done some amount of soldering, but only with a cheapo iron. I replaced a dead capacitor in a LCD monitor and have mended several wires.

Thanks for response.