Alright, incoming rant.

Let's start off with the difference of 5.1 vs 7.1, shall we? The logitec set is only $10 more expensive and it's full 7.1 not just 5.1, surely it's got superior sound quality! Well, no. No it does not. Why? It's a pair of headphones, and this particular pair is powered by two drivers. Now this raises the question, what the hell is a driver?!? Put simply, a driver is the speaker cone, it makes the sound. Technically, it's a piece of <material> ringed with <metal> with a small disk in the middle, with a high powered magnet behind it, that's where the power consumption is from. The magnet receives anywhere from 44.1 thousand to 192 thousand on/off signals per second, depending on your sound card's settings and capabilities.

But back to that 5.1/7.1 thing. The logicec set decodes the audio in 7.1, which means if you play back something in 7.1 out of the computer, it will not be converted to your setup at that stage. The feature of 5.1 or 7.1 is strictly a *marketing gimmic. Any headphones made by almost any company other than sennheiser, audio technica, shure, head-direct, or <other makers of fine small driver gear> will be only meh sounding, and importantly, only powered by 2 drivers.

So, what exactly does 5.1 vs 7.1 mean in this case? Well, it means jack shit. At the driver level, both of them convert to 2.0, meaning two channels, left and right. Typical 7.1 would be front center, front left, front right, rear right, rear left, right, left, bass (bass being the 0.1). 5.1 is the same without the dedicated left and right outputs. The problem here? I just told you these headphones only have two outputs, and will only ultimately read to left and right. Sure, logitec vied for the chip that costs an extra $2 so they can write 7.1, but that means nothing here.

Understand that the 7.1 vs 5.1 is meaningless now? Good.

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Thermaltake has stuck to the more technically relevant specs in their listing, terms like "diffuse-field equalized " and nominal ohms mean nothing to the end user, and again, with only two drivers will make no difference at the end of the day.

What you should take form this is that both sets have the same reproduction range (high to low / vice versa) and have the same impedance (sound dampening/time treating, nothing to be worried about, 32ohms is normal.) Your Ohm count only needs to be raised when doing mega-scale amplifying, because high frequency sound moves faster than low frequency sound and you might get audible "tearing" without adjusting it on the ultra-loud end. Again, nothing to worry about, this doesn't matter here.

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So, blah blah blah rant rant rant, what do I recommend? Well, I recommend getting a good pair of headphones, and a cheap mic. This is the internet and your voice is being transmitted at anywhere from 16 to 84 kilobits per second (your music is probably being played at 128 or 320kbps), in short, studio mics won't have studio level performance for this.

So, recommendations.

Do you want in-ear headphones (some are called earbuds, what I will recommend here are IEMs, in-ear monitors [a monitor is an expensive driver/speaker cone])? Or do you want over-ear headphones? Over-ear phones typically have better quality, but can be uncomfortable. Likewise, in-ear phones will be more convenient, but probably sound a bit worse and have a bit less bang for your buck, while possibly being less comfortable.

IEMs:

1 - Absolute sonic clarity, across the board even and neutral reproduction: HeadDirect RE0's + Zalman mic - total: $95.09 - These babies sound much more like the dramatically more expensive IE8s than otehr ~$100 headphones, top notch recommendation. The average listener would probably miss bass, however.

2 High bass - Bose IE2 + Zalman mic - Total: $111.05 - This is your best bet if you want the best sounding headphones at face value, the drivers in these are pretty damn bass heavy and will sound amazing to the common man, an audiophile would want something with more neutrality and better across-the-board sound quality. Additionally, the stayhear tips are surprisingly effective, if you wanted to take them out with you. Jogging, riding a bus, in a car, they won't fall out.

-

Over-Ear's

1 -best quality Sennheiser HD555's + Zalman mic - Total: $116.07 - worth every penny.

So...here are a few suggestions at this price range:

Audio Technica ATH-M50x: $120 (Probably the most recommended headphone ever. Somewhat boomy bass at times).
http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR86

Ultrasone HFI-580 S-Logic: $132.98 (Tighter bass than the M50x, typical Ultrasone v-curve, and pretty fun).
http://www.amazon.com/Ultrasone-HFI-580-Professional-Closed-back-Headphones/dp/B00101UHS8

Beyerdynamic DT770: $137.58 (Another classic. Built like a tank. Probably the second "brightest" pair of cans on this list next to the Ultrasone 780).
http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-770-PRO-250-ohms/dp/B0006NL5SM/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1463101103&sr=1-2&keywords=dt+770

AKG K553 Pro: $172.99 (My office cans. These are fairly flat with slightly accentuated bass. Their mids are a bit veiled. They can be had for $120 on Massdrop sometimes and are probably worth closer to that amount than the $170+ they usually go for).

Ultrasone HFI-780 S-Logic: $173.85 (Currently wearing these right now while while listening to Hotel California. These headphones have a strong v-curve and can be fatiguing due to how bright their treble is. However, with the right music, they can be really, really fun).
http://www.amazon.com/Ultrasone-HFI-780-Professional-Closed-back-Headphones/dp/B00101XVH2

Sennheiser Momentum: $188.90 (I've not heard these personally, so I can't give any appropriate opinion).
http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-Momentum-Headphone-Brown/dp/B009QV15DU

Shure SRH840: $189.95 (I've not heard these personally, so I can't give any appropriate opinion. However, in my limited experience, Shure's tend to be flat and cough boring).
http://www.amazon.com/Shure-SRH840-Professional-Monitoring-Headphones/dp/B002DP8IEK

Sony MDR1R: $199.95 (I didn't spend too much time with these as I wasn't very impressed. A few other options I listed above are much more fun or balanced, but I figured I'd put them on the list anyways).
http://www.amazon.com/Sony-MDR1R-Premium-Over-Headphones/dp/B009A6CZ30


I almost always suggest Audio Technica M50x at this price range. That's not because I think they're the most fun or balanced. It's because they're a great entry level headphone for someone that doesn't know exactly what they want from their daily driver. If someone is sure that they like a nice v-curve, I'm not afraid to suggest Ultrasones or Beyerdynamics. I really want to try out the Sennheiser Momentums, but I haven't had the chance yet.

I am currently using my T10s and I really like them, especially for the price. For gaming and general music listening they are great. They are compact but can throw out some great sound. If you want to just read reviews then newegg and amazon have a lot of them. At your price range (which was similar to mine) those are some of the best for 2.0 and what Nyclatus posted would be among the best for 2.1

One important detail you didn't mention is whether you care what type of speakers you're looking for. I'm assuming PC speakers, and you mention that the ones you replaced were 5.1, but do you want another 5.1 set or would you be ok with 7.1, 9.1, 2.1, 4.1 etc.

I personally use Logitech X-540 speakers. They're 5.1, work great, and have a nifty feature that can output to all 5 satellites using just stereo audio. So if I'm listening to music it'll put the vocal track on the center, keep the left/right front as they would be, and put the instrumentals from their respective side on the rear channels. It's not perfect, but it sounds good in certain circumstances.

$82 on Amazon

I could recommend a 7.1 card, and if you must have a 7.1 sourround headset, this is a fairly swell soundcard it: Asus Xonar DS

Having done as you ask, let me ask something. Do you really need a gimmicky 7.1 Headset? Because that's what it is: a gimmick. The individual drivers in the headset will not only be smaller (and thus lose any quality in bass, and be incredibly tinny in higher trebles), but the incredibly limited space for driver placement (opposed to how with a home theater, you have the entire room to place the speakers for surround) in the headphones, meaning that you'll find it incredibly difficult to actually discern the direction of a given sound in the 3d environment of a game, making the feature ever so slightly pointless.

Infact, in my experience (I've owned both a Turtlebeach 5.1 headset, and a 7.1 Razer Megalodon), even software virtualization techniques (for example, Dolby's Pro Logic software) beat a given 7.1 equipped headset in ability to make clear the direction of a given sound.

As many no doubt will recommend you do in this thread, I must recommend you pick up a quality set of headphones, and this is a good place to start looking for one. Along with that, I'd recommend you get a quality DAC (Digital-to-Analog converter, they function kind of like soundcard, but offer alot of benefits over a sound card, at the price of being outside the computer) such as this.

Of course, it's all subjective, and there's no way for me to convince you of the lovemaking-sounds a high quality set of headphones (with a DAC) can provide, without your experiencing it yourself. Whatever you decide to do, best of luck to you.

meh(scroll down to the UPDATE: area to see the relevant section).

Before even seeing that review, I was going to recommend Klipsch ProMedia 2.1, which can usually be found for less than a hundred dollars on your local Craigslist(I got a perfectly working set from 2009 for $70). Yes, they're old, but yes, they're still the king of awesome/cheap, for the most part.

Don't bother with the wireless ones unless you find them at a comparable price (which you probably won't).

Otherwise, there's always the M-Audio AV40 (mark I, not II) if you're more into accurate reproduction of sound.

If neither of these is expensive enough for your tastes, I shall bow and take my leave, as you will need to find another product specialist to help in your higher-end range. I've never felt the need to spend $400+ on computer speakers, but perhaps when I own a home I'll get something along those lines. The z5500 is still an excellent set, though, so I'm not sure what you're looking for...

Absolute best deal I know of, are these: http://www.amazon.com/HiFiMan-RE-0-In-Ear-Stereo-Headphones/dp/B001MQ8BL6

They rival the sound quality of the Shure SE 535's, I own both and honestly don't care which ones I use. The Shure's are $400-500, the RE0's are $79. Your choice.

The RE0's have most of the clarity, detail and soundstage of the better Etymotics models, but much better bass. And at a much better price.

I would advise against those "home theater systems." They are nice and compact, but "nice and compact" isn't usually a good thing for speakers.

If I were you, I would pick up some nice powered monitors with a >5" cone, and no sub woofer. The sub that comes with those packages probably has a 6", maybe 8" driver, and often is turned up too much, which is why a lot of cheap systems sound kind of "farty." If you get a nice monitor you will have much clearer sound. Powered monitors usually have 1 RCA connector, which would probably go to the TV's sound output. Then if you have a DVD player hooked up to your tv over HDMI, you can also get sound from that.

I use some bookshelf speakers (dm-602's from ebay) and a reconditioned denon reciever from ecost (you can get one of these for >$150). I've heard good things about these as well.

Also, speaker stands. If you do go the monitor/bookshelf route (and you should), get some speaker stands.

I agree with Tekar, I had these Logitechs for a few years, and they were great and cheap.

They've since come out with a newer model, which I'm sure is even better.

Probably not what you are looking for, but I use [these] (http://www.amazon.com/Universal-PC-Stereo-Gaming-Headset-TM-YB100A/dp/B001FY7LBQ/ref=sr_1_7?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1332963626&sr=1-7) and they work great for my gaming needs. The sound is actually very good considering the price. I've been using them for a couple of months now with a couple of different games.

I know you may be seeking a <$50 keyboard for budget reasons, but getting a nice, quality keyboard (and mouse) is, IMO, one of the most important things to consider with one's PC. Since they keyboard is something you physically interact with almost constantly while using your computer (especially if you're a gamer), skimping on it will often leave you dissatisfied & seeking a different keyboard in 6-12 months.

I'm not a gamer, but I do a lot of typing so I bought myself the Logitech Ultrathin Illuminated Keyboard two years ago and I consider it the best $80 I spent on my computer.

~~You could probably use something like this with one of these and one of these. I just grabbed the first search results so better prices could be found easily.
edit* you'd also need to find a female to female 3.5mm connector as well.... you might be better off finding a jack and having someone solder the connections. (this plus this and this)~~

or you could just get one of these

There are ways to tell a good PSU from a bad one, that Antec one for example has "Active PFC" which means there is a chip inside it that is reading and adjusting the power flow and trying to keep everything running smoothly where is the Diablotek one is just a passive converter, as the system draws power more power is produced with nothing overseeing the power ripple quality or anything.

The Antec also advertises circuit protection in the event of an overload it sounds like it would protect your internal components.

I can say that buying a cheap PSU is almost always a bad idea. At the very least look for a PSU with Active PFC and likely you'll want to stay with brands like Antec, Seasonic, Corsair and far far away from the many no-name $20 PSUs on the market.

Edit: forgot to add my favorite arbitrary way to determine quality is to check how much a PSU weighs, the more it weighs the better the PSU is ;) Top Quality Seasonic = 6.2 pounds Garbage Diablotek = 3.1 pounds

(that's not scientific but its always worked for me, the Antec is 5 pounds btw and it does kind of show the scale in quality and power output as you get heavier)

Ergotech has adjustable size and can support 25 lbs per mount, costs $230.

Look into building one yourself. Black steel piping at home depot isn't terribly expensive, and assuming that you don't care to move it while it's mounted a bit of planning will let you mount VESA monitors pretty much anywhere.

Audio-Technica ATH-AD900

Shure SRH840

There are several other good cans in your price range, but these two should probably fit your needs quite well...

I do computer repair and we use this thing at work to test PSUs.

Your best bet really is just to test it with a power supply you know works though.

yes.

Get something like this http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40645-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B000J1H4VI/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1382909261&sr=1-10&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm+y+cable

plug the RCA's into the red and white, plug that headphone end into the mic or line/in into the pc's ports.

Alternately, you can go RCA to headphone, then just Y cable between the PS3 and computer's sound out.

Here you go. Works like a charm and will eliminate any noise from interference in the case.


Behringer UCA202

I use this: Ergotech stand with 3xx U2412m's and it works awesome.

These are $150 but trust me when I say these Klipsch ProMedia's are some of if not thee best desktop speakers for the money.

This eBay store (excellent feedback) has a complete set (used though) for about $75.

And here are two listing for NEW sets on eBay that fall between $100 and $120. Set 1 and Set 2

http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-JQD-00001-SideWinder-X4-Keyboard/dp/B002ZV51DI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pdT1_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=1JQYZ452PQU3Q&coliid=I383LYPTJBZN6C

Keys even have an LED for your nighttime habits. I know its 7 dollars over but it is worth it.

Edit: seems to be a prime eligible used keyboard with just packaging defects...may be worth a shot.

I checked the manual for the record player. This [2 x RCA Male / 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female Adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/Male-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1344748113&sr=1-1&keywords=2+x+RCA+Male+%2F+1+x+3.5mm+Stereo+Female) should accomplish what you are trying to do. You can just buy a 3.5mm male to male cable for whatever length you need from amazon also.

Thanks for all this information by the way, and answering my questions. One more question if you don't mind. Is there a significant difference between the power supplies, for instance is the cheaper one lower quality compared to the one priced higher or is it all about brand?

This book I highly recommend, its currently on the 19th edition with the 20th releasing shortly. It covers the details of every single piece of pc hardware in depth.

I've used the Microsoft Natural Keyboards for years.

If you do pc repair often one of these http://www.amazon.com/A2358-Dr-Power-Supply-Tester/dp/B000P0L45K/ can be very useful. Dunno if it's worth $15 for just one problem though.

Do your speakers not have their own phone/mic jacks? I use these quite modest ones and they have ports on the side.

Best less than 20 bucks I have spent on a headset ever

logitech illuminated keyboard

This is the one I bought: http://www.amazon.com/APC-BE550G-Back-UPS-Outlet-550VA/dp/B0019804U8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1372620408&sr=8-2&keywords=backup+battery

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S

I use this to power an led strip.

Ok. I understand what you are trying to do and it will be a bit of a pain in the wallet no matter how you slice it.

I can think of 3 ways to go:

1. Buy a component AV switch and use the video input/outputs for audio:
   
   

• Hard to find one with dual outputs. (expensive)$179.99
  
• Would require the use of 12 3.5mm stereo to RCA converters.$1.71 X 12
  
  

2. A USB sound 'card' and KVM would also be expensive but cheaper and a more elegant solution:
   
   

• Attach both speakers and headset to USB sound $70 with splitters $0.36 X 3
  
• Attach USB sound card to PCs with USB capable KVM $30
  
  
• A potential problem with this could be issues due to a mismatch in input impedance of the speakers/headset. If a problem arose from this setup omitting the splitters and adding a second USB sound card might provide a solution.
  
  

3. You could try splitting the outputs (using 3 splitters from 2)connected to $0.95 X 3but I would expect the sound quality to suffer and I'm not sure what would happen if both sources were outputting at the same time. Potential for damage to your soundcards. This by far the cheapest solution so it might be worth trying before you decide to proceed further but do proceed with caution.
   
   
   As you can see, there really is no magic bullet for what you are trying to do with an analog signal - if your speakers and headphones were capable of digital input this would be much simpler.
   
   
   

Sorry, something like this has a bad arrow key layout

I've been trying to get a Sony GDM FW900 for years. Before LCD's took over you could get them for a lot less than a thousand dollars.

No IPS monitor can match the colors, and no 120/144 hz tn monitor can match the response.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fgs_-PxfzBA

Here's a link of said display!

I'm a sucker for Trinitrons =(

Heh I'm still using my saitek eclipse 1. I had purchased a Razer Tarantula a while back, but the D key stopped working. o.O But, I was looking into the Microsoft Sidewinder x4.
http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-JQD-00001-SideWinder-X4-Keyboard/dp/B002ZV51DI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1334323863&sr=8-1

What sort of horror stories have you heard? The batteries are designed to be user replaceable and (though I've never done this one) are typically very easy. Also, if you think that one is going (it will actually tell you when the battery has failed a self test on its built in web-page) you could swap the entire APC unit out with the one from your router. Even with a bad battery it should be able to keep your router up for longer than your desktop connected to an APC with a good battery.

Also no need for a surge protector. You can hook one to it, or hook it into one, and it won't hurt it though. Just take care not to draw more than the device can handle.

And it may be a little overkill to have one of these just for a fios box and one just for a router. You'll get many many times the run time on those two as your will your TV or especially your tower. Something like this would still keep those two boxes up far longer than your PC and cost a fraction.

May be slightly out of your stated range, but you could probably find them cheaper, but Klipsch kicks ass: http://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-ProMedia-Certified-Computer-Speaker/dp/B000062VUO