Reddit reviews Ginsco 120 Pcs/60 Pairs Quick Splice Wire Terminals T-Tap Self-stripping with Nylon Fully Insulated Male Quick Disconnects Kit
We found 7 Reddit comments about Ginsco 120 Pcs/60 Pairs Quick Splice Wire Terminals T-Tap Self-stripping with Nylon Fully Insulated Male Quick Disconnects Kit. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Easy identification-Color-coded tubing makes it easy to identify the right size of the connector for every application.Use these Self-Stripping Electrical Tap Connectors to electrically tap into a wire in mid-span without cutting or stripping the wire.Use with the male quick disconnect for easy safe splicing into wires.Prevents the wire from shorting out.Package Included: 60 X T-Tap Wire Terminals + 60 X Male Spade Connector. With a Plastic Storage Cace.
No, you still wouldn't ever want to do it that way. Just use a standby UPS plugged into the same circuit as the primary supply. Least sketchy way to do it would be to score the power cable along the length for a couple inches and around the circumference all the way through and peel off the jacket to expose the three inner conductors and slap on a t tap on each one. Then just wire up an adapter going from a standard NEMA 5 plug to the spade terminals from the t taps.
https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-Terminals-Self-stripping-Insulated-Disconnects/dp/B01CDWC60Y
All you would do to switch it over is plug the cable into the UPS first, then plug the spade connectors into the t taps, unplug the original power cable from the wall and immediately plug it into the UPS, then unplug the spade connectors and remove the adapter cable.
There are several products that you can use that will not require using wire nuts, which can be large and difficult to work with in confined spaces with not enough wire. This is one of those products, meant to lengthen wire-connections for various reasons. You will along with this product, need another 2-3 inches of copper wire, the same kind that is the wire of the door bell. You crimp, or squeeze this product on to the end of the wire, without the copper protruding from the wire, and use another piece of wire to extend the connection to your doorbell. With this product you will cut off the visible copper from the wire, and attach the product on the wire including its colored insulation. You might benefit from going to a store that has electrical stuff, and having someone guide you through what you'll need. Needle nose pliers, wire cutters, etc. Hopefully my description is sufficient. Good luck.
I used a dual usb with a magnetic/water resistant closure and really like it. I’ll link it later when I get home if you want. I also tied into wires instead of direct to battery they make wire tie ins that just clamp on like this:
Ginsco 120 Pcs/60 Pairs Quick Splice Wire Terminals T-Tap Self-stripping with Nylon Fully Insulated Male Quick Disconnects Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CDWC60Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n4bdBbTK9RZRB
So like a “vampire tooth”-connector?
Ginsco 120 Pcs/60 Pairs Quick Splice Wire Terminals T-Tap Self-stripping with Nylon Fully Insulated Male Quick Disconnects Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CDWC60Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XIlTCbG08V4HF
Oh those wire into the daytime running lights and the turn signal. I used these to make splicing easy. On mine the green wire is the turn signal and the red wire is the DRL, black is ground.
The 7-pin connector is specifically for trailers with brakes or other power requirements. The 4-pin connectors control lights only, the extra pins on the 7-pin actuate the breaks and provide extra power for things like charging breakaway boxes or running RV refrigerators.
Being a 40-foot trailer, I don't see how there is any way that it would not weigh enough to require brakes, no matter the state. There would be no way to rewire the trailer to use a 4-pin connector and actuate the brakes. Even having a 7-pin connector on the truck would be no guarantee that the brakes are being actuated - most require an aftermarket brake controller be wired in.
If you are comfortable with the lack of braking and just need to do short pulls, it would be a relatively simple process to parallel a 4-pin connector onto the 7-pin trailer wiring so that you could at least have lights. Something like this:
https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Wesbar/W787268.html?feed=npn&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiPG_r8G_4AIVQ1YNCh3MwwHPEAQYASABEgKr5_D_BwE
with these
https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-Terminals-Self-stripping-Insulated-Disconnects/dp/B01CDWC60Y
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Your lights would work and you'd avoid the attention of the fuzz, but I'd be careful about running around without brakes on a 40-foot trailer very often.
Good luck!
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EDIT: I ran across this that would solve your problem too, I think. A little clunkier, but plug and play. Same issue with not actually having brakes, though.
https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Mighty-Cord/A10-7084VP.html
Just find some splice terminals like these: https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-Terminals-Self-stripping-Insulated-Disconnects/dp/B01CDWC60Y/ref=sr_1_8?crid=2L6Z6JKOO7AAV&keywords=wire+tap+connectors&qid=1558381066&s=gateway&sprefix=wire+tap%2Caps%2C173&sr=8-8
Use them to connect a Power Magic Pro onto battery/switched/ground wires.