Reddit reviews TP-Link AC1200 Dual Band Router - Wireless AC Router for Home(Archer C50)

I wouldn't go to best buy, I'd recommend buying it online. If you can't buy it online go to bestbuy and get them to price match an item.

I'd recommend this one.


Edit: If you want a newer option I'd recommend this one. ~$30 more

Depends on your needs and your budget. If you don't need gigabit and you have a small budget, a TP-Link Archer C50 would be great. It's just under $40 on Amazon.

If you want something that will allow you a bit faster speed between your devices, something like the Archer C1200 for $60 would give you gigabit ports.

The next step is the often recommended Archer C7 which goes for $75. It's an excellent router for most uses.

If you don't need wireless, you have many more options as well. If you have specific requirements, then we might be able to make more appropriate suggestions, but the Archer line up tends to cover the needs of most people.

Here you go, nice and cheap.

$25 Refurb Archer C50

The ethernet status is just the connection speed between your computer and modem/router. That does mean your plugged in computer would be able to make use of a Gigabit internet connection, but unless you invest in some serious wireless hardware you won't be able to get close to that over wifi.

Internet connections and wireless speeds are measured in Mbps (Megabits per second). There are 8 bits to every byte. So a 1Gbps connection could download 125MBs per second. Your 15Mbps connection can download 1.8MBs per second. The networking protocols in use also have about a 15% overhead, so in reality it would be about 15% slower than that.

Wireless speeds are more complicated. Your modem/router has a theoretical maximum speed of 300Mbps, but since wireless devices have to share radio time over the same airwaves that number quickly shrinks in the real world. For starters that 1000Mbps ethernet connection you have is a duplex connection, meaning it can simultaneously download and upload at that speed, but with wireless you can't both talk and listen at the same time so it's in half-duplex mode. That means it's sharing that 300Mbps for uploading and downloading, effectively cutting that speed in half. On top of that, every wireless device connected has to share that max speed. If we do a little math...

300Mbps is 37.5MBs per second.
Remove 15% for networking overhead.
Cut it in half because it has to both upload and download.
Let's say you have 4 devices connected so split it in 4.
Next thing you know each device is only getting 4MBs per second and that's assuming you have maximum signal strength and you're paying for a 300+Mbps internet connection.

It's a little more complicated than that and hopefully your wireless router is doing some optimization in there but, long story short, wireless speeds suck. Try to plug in as much stuff as you can. Consider upgrading your router too. Even a cheap TP-Link AC1200 would be a noticeable upgrade from your current one. Realize that is just a wireless router and not a modem/router combo so you would still need a modem. I'm assuming the device you posted earlier is provided by Comcast and plays both rolls. Some ISPs charge extra for the wireless function so you might be able to save a few dollars on your bill by providing your own router.

Now that we've got the internal networking inside of your house (LAN) out of the way, let's talk about your internet connection (WAN). 10Mbps is pretty much the minimum required speed necessary to comfortably watch streaming HD video. Netflix recommends at least 5Mbps per stream but that is really pushing it for 1080p video and god forbid you want to do anything else online at the same time. 25Mbps should be more than adequate for a single person. After looking at the prices you posted and realizing it's only $13 more to bump from 25Mbps to 200Mbps, I personally go with the 200Mbps plan. Though to make full use of that speed over wireless you would need to upgrade your wireless router.

Get your systems wired, wi-fi, no matter how good, will add some latency (though it might not be necessarily noticeable, depends how good the ISP is) Ethernet cable is cheap. If you're wired there will be minimal difference between a cheap router and an expensive one for a 2-3 machine network. It's all going to depend on what your ISP gives you.

I've used one of these for years, no reason to complain. It has good customization, security and QoS (I had no problem downloading a game with 10MB/s and watching 1080p Youtube at the same time on a 100Mb/s connection)
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Router-300Mbps-TL-WR841N/dp/B001FWYGJS/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1494218543&sr=8-10&keywords=tp+link

Of course, it won't do if you have an above 100Mb/s connection since it won't handle more, but as far as I know that's not likely with comcast.

Otherwise, you can get one of these https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Router-300Mbps-TL-WR841N/dp/B0168G0KZY/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1494218543&sr=8-10&keywords=tp%2Blink&th=1

It can handle gigabyte connections, has dual band wireless.. you're unlikely to have the internet or devices to actually use it to it's full potential, so it offers some decent futureproofing as well

Hey, I need a new router.

What does everyone think about this one here:

https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Wireless-Router-2-0Ports-External/dp/B0168G0KZY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493212609&sr=1-1&th=1

?

Take a look at the TP Link Archer c7

or

TP Link Archer AC1200

The C7 is better but the ac1200 is within your $50 budget, and probably adequate for light use.

In 90% of circumstances for home use, I would recommend flashing the AP to the latest DD-WRT version and using it in "AP Mode" (secured with WPA2 AES or 802.1x) behind your pfSense firewall to avoid things like double-NAT and other unnecessarily doubled-up services that pfSense already takes care of.

I have had a lot of troubles with our orcon one. I have one of these on the way - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0168G0KZY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

Here are some router options:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IUDUJE0/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1501034015&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=routers&dpPl=1&dpID=41zgzzt6DML&ref=plSrch


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0168G0KZY/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1501034104&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=routers&dpPl=1&dpID=41hCKE-ZROL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LXL1AR8/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1501034167&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=routers

ordered this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0168G0KZY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have used this one for a year now and want to upgrade because we have faster internet now and more devices connecting. (I went from 2 devices constantly connected to 6 devices streaming/gaming for reference)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0168G0KZY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for the reply!
Here's the extender I have : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010S6SG3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_f.IQCbX14EK54

And here's the router downstairs :
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0168G0KZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_qaJQCbXZ20WZN

I'm starting to think that I maybe in the wrong subreddit..

Please advise

Cable modem\routers are easy to get by nowadays, you can grab one off from amazon, best-buy or even your local wallmart, just make sure that the modem model number is Docsis 3.0
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Ethernet-Archer-C50/dp/B0168G0KZY/
this is a pretty good router, you can connect multiple devices plus this also has 4 reliable wire ports for wired connection

in the end I would also say that you should check out spectrum their Modem\Router is pretty amazing
plus they also have some amazing deals for triple play and double play bundles

I'm not exactly sure whether you're asking about which internet service to get or which hardware to buy so here's my opinion on both:

Unless your apartment complex is wired for some sort of fiber then TWC might be your only option anyway but if they have Uverse available there will probably be cheaper (but much slower) packages available through them. I think here in San Diego they have a $30/mo for 6mbps option but TWC is $40 for 50-100mbps (depending on neighborhood) so I'd say that's worth the money.

Given that you're in an apartment I would recommend that you don't go with the cheapest option because odds are you'd get a 2.4GHz-only router and that's going to be awful due to interference. When everyone is home in the evening streaming Netflix you will have serious issues.

I recommend spending a little more money and getting a dual band router like this one. You'll also want to make sure that you name the 2.4GHz and 5GHz with different SSIDs and try to only connect to the 5GHz SSID on your devices. You may have some devices that can only see the 2.4GHz SSID but hopefully anything you'll use to stream video or skype/FaceTime with will be on 5GHz.

The downside to 5GHz is range but as long as your apartment isn't gigantic you should be ok. In my experience in apartments a weak 5GHz signal is better than any 2.4GHz signal.

> C50

http://www.tp-link.com/en/products/details/cat-9_Archer-C50.html#specifications

The TP-Link page uses the numeric speeds of 100mpbs

TP-Link AC1200 Wireless Wi-Fi Dual Band Fast Ethernet Router (Archer C50)

Amazon uses the term "Fast Ethernet" which is the standardized name for 100mbps

So the router may get faster speeds but only point to point on the wireless

Powerline adapters are plug and play.

This router could be what you're looking for.

I edited my previous post, the sub is called /r/HomeNetworking/

Something simple like this should do fine then https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Wireless-Ethernet-Router/dp/B0168G0KZY/

I was thinking of getting:
Tp link c50:
and
separate switch:

will use the switch mainly for moving file across NAS and comp which have gigabit ports. Only issue is that there will a Fk ton of cables/power plugs.

it could be both. But it is most likely the router, due to age.

here is a list of well rated ones. and here is a good reviewed one for under $50. <- I wouldnt suggest this one for any floorplan over 1000 sqft.

Thank you for such a detailed reply. After your reply and checking out those links the other comments make much more sense to me.

i checked out the equipment you recommended, read more about them online to get a better understanding but its very expensive for me.

I thought I'd buy a cheaper router for example
archer c50. or archer C7. and get one of the UAP you mentioned but apparently getting equipment from different companies causes problems in switching connections automatically when you move around the house, so it'd be better to get ones from the same company.

Cause of that what do you think about one of those archer C50 or C7 with a TP link access point like AC1350.??

Yes regarding your last paragraph i got that sorted out yesterday. Asked Verizon to convert COAX to ethernet. Yes its through the MoCA adapter in case I decide to get TV services from verizon in the future.

Depends on Router. I have this and it works very well. Haven't tested the NAS feature yet.

Sorry for not replying directly. I was asleep, just woke up out of nowhere and saw your message. So quickly replying before I head back to bed. 2:38 AM here! xD

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> I noticed that those are all static pressure fans. Wouldn't I want to get AF fans for the top and rear of the case?

Correct, however I did forgot to mention "why" I picked those thermaltake fans.
I said that I "mostly" did it for the looks. The thermaltake fans are indeed SP fans, which means they work best on a radiator or cooler.
So why the heck do I still suggest to use 1 for the case?
Because airflow speed is really not extremely important anymore these days, because both the CPU & GPUs don't run extremely hot anymore.
This is why most fans can run at near silent levels (or if you have good fans & case, you won't hear them at all) because they simply don't need to run that fast or move a lot of air to keep the temperatures in check.
Only when the CPU & GPU need to work hard (when you game) the case fans need to spin a bit faster to "move" more air. The air movement is really important. Fresh or cool air needs to enter the case while the hot air that the CPU & GPU "expose" needs to be pushed out. This happens naturally by increasing fan speeds. The higher the CFM the more air they move, yes.

So why did I suggest such low CFM fans? Because even that low number, is enough to keep your card it's temperatures cool enough.
While a higher CFM would likely be able to lower the temperature of the card by about.. 2C, you're trading silence or cost or looks of the fan for it. Which I did not find worth it, which is why I suggested this fan.
Here is a good video about case fans and how many you need?

• Click - 13:53 minutes
  
  And here is an other great video that looks at my exact point as well. That case fan CFM or whatever, doesn't really make a huge difference in temperatures..
  
  
• Click - 11:54 minutes
  
  This video is hilarious.. It also shows you why case fans aren't super duper important anymore in terms of temperatures. As long as there is "some air" moving, the temperature won't change much.
  The cooling performance is highly affected by the actually coolers on the GPU & CPU themselves!
  
  > I think I'll hold off on buying the fans for the radiator since the Enermax ones seem to be good fans that also seem to push a little more air than the Thermaltake ones. I don't think color will matter there because they'll be hidden anyway.
  
  The performance will roughly be the same, but the fans will just look cooler! You could technically place the fans like this. Both directions would work, push or pull. Meaning the way the air flows through the radiator. Temperature wise it won't hugely affect it, but when you place them in push (which is the way it is, in that picture) the temperature of the CPU will be a bit higher, while the GPU will be a bit lower.
  When you set them in pull, the CPU will be slightly cooler and the GPU a bit higher.
  
  In terms of the light, it's true that they're pretty much hidden, but the LED strips will provide the color pretty well if you place them the way I said above. Which will make them light up the other parts of your system pretty nicely. I mean, it's absolutely not required to buy for sure, I mean.. in terms of performance, it makes very little difference at all.
  Which is again, why I said that I mostly did it "for the looks".
  
  > For the cables, I think I'd rather get a basic kit than an extension kit and have to worry about cable management. Let me know if you know anywhere else to buy a basic kit in that red or white color.
  
  I actually only know that you can buy them from EVGA, but those are pretty expensive and really, for the couple of cables that actually will be visible, it's probably not worth it.
  
  In terms of extensions, I personally use them and.. my case got pretty much NO room for cable management, but I still managed somehow.. yes my side panel has a bit of a bulge, but fuck it my front looks awesome!
  
  > I will also buy that wireless adapter. In the near future I will also be updating my modem/router.
  
  Good news, a router is really not that expensive anymore! You can buy them extremely cheap, but I do recommend to spend a decent amount for at least something that is "good enough".
  
  
• TP Link Archer C50 | Product page | $53
  Amazon Reviews (4093): ★★★★☆
  
• Linksys EA6100 | Product Page
  Amazon Reviews (223): ★★★★☆
  
  I am certain that both of these 2 routers would likely fix a lot of your troubles. They're also very easy to setup and you can kick your IPS in the butt for providing you with such garbage.
  
  > I don't intend to spend a bunch of money on it either, as I'm the only one using it besides maybe my phone or my girlfriend's phone. So I don't need one that has tons of features to split the internet between people.
  
  I highly recommend you to download the free app "WiFi Analyser". This app will very likely surprise you, but the network that you're using (you need to know the name of your WiFi), is very likely overlapping with other networks around the house from neighbours or other devices that send data, such as.. radios, TVs, washing machines, some fridges, microphones, etc. There are a lot more things in your home than you might expect that could potentially send out data and thus interfering with the connect of your device with the router.
  
  This is why the 5GHz network will very likely solve this issue, right away. Because the 5GHz network (compared to the standard 2.4GHz) is not used very widely.. yet. Thus the chance of other devices interfering with the connection is very slim. Which makes the connection much stronger.
  
  > I will also buy an anti-static wristband for assembly.
  
  Good idea, those are cheap anyway. If you don't know how to "connect" them. You have to connect them to a point that is earthed to the ground for the best result.
  How I generally do it, is by connecting a PSU cable into the wall socket directly, that I know is earthed. Us Europeans use an other socket, we have that pin sticking out which is our earth pin.
  Then I plug the cable into the PSU and keep the PSU turned off, by doing this.. the PSU is now connected by earth and the "housing" is also earthed. Thus I can clip the anti-static wrist band to the PSU and be earthed as well.
  
  > Anything else I may be forgetting? I believe the enermax cooler comes with thermal paste already so I think I'm all set to go!
  
  Nope, perhaps a screwdriver (preferably magnetic!).
  Don't worry about "magnets" for PC, the magnets inside screwdrivers are nowhere near strong enough to harm PC parts, not even a HDD. I've been using a magnetic screwdriver for my whole life when building PCs. Haven't had anything die yet by using it.
  Of course, the stronger the magnet, the bigger the chance, but I don't think a screwdriver can kill it. I have some extremely strong screwdrivers (for work).. I could test it! I have a few HDDs that I don't care about anymore if they die!
  
  

  Happy building and please, test the system before you build it inside your case!
  

  
  ---
  
  

  Watch and follow the build guide video carefully and you should have no problem at all!

Thanks! Also, I made an error. I'm looking for a router, not modem lol. But I might pick this one up, https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Ethernet-Archer-C50/dp/B0168G0KZY

Yeah, that's what I figured but my main aim was that my router should not be throttling down the speed. I decided to go with 1200 mbps router from https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Wireless-Dual-Band-Archer-C50/dp/B0168G0KZY?ie=UTF8&ref_=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top

A modem is device which connects to your ISP and decodes/encodes the data being transferred. A router handles the data and serves it to your home via WiFi or wired ethernet.

A lot of ISPs sell 2-in-1 devices which contain both the modem and router in the same device. These work good for small basic networks but are very limited if you have higher bandwidth or more devices in your home.

I've been using an ARRIS SURFBoard SB6121 modem for about a year with Time Warner with no problems.

I also have my own wireless router which you will need to get if you buy the above modem. The router I have is a Linksys WRT1900ACS which is probably overkill for what you would need. I would suggest something along the lines of a TP-LINK AC1200.

This one is good if you're trying to stay around $50, it's $59.99, and with your internet speeds it would allow you to achieve a what your paying for. That being said I'd always recommend upgrading your speed for a true difference across the board, but I don't know what your looking at over budget wise.
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Wireless-Dual-Band-Archer-C50/dp/B0168G0KZY/ref=sr_1_12_m?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1464004570&sr=1-12&keywords=router&refinements=p_72%3A1248879011%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_three_browse-bin%3A8514071011

The only way you'd be wrong is if you have a modem in an environment that causes frequent failures, and of course even then you should probably move it. Renting ONLY makes sense, in my opinion, if you have them replace it more than once a year. Otherwise do some research on supported models and buy one that works for you. I would also recommend avoiding any "router/modem combos" as they're generally garbage.

Personally I have this modem: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-DOCSIS-Certified-XFINITY-TC-7610/dp/B010Q29YF8/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1509736005&sr=1-7&keywords=cable+modem

And this router: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Ethernet-Archer-C50/dp/B0168G0KZY/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1509736039&sr=1-4&keywords=tp+link+router

Purchased in a bundle together for $80 (it appears frequently if you watch for it) and they're great for the money. Do a little research, though, because different modems support different services so they somewhat depend on your internet service and routers are even more personal to your living environment and needs.

Hmm. I bought this https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Wireless-Ethernet-Router/dp/B0168G0KZY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1483574487&sr=1-1&keywords=tp+link+ac because it had good reviews (and was inexpensive). I mean- I'm not doubting your bad luck, and I wont rule it out, but I do think it's unlikely, considering the quality of the reviews.