Best antifreezes & coolants according to redditors

Oh yeh then why do they make this ?/s
https://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-80204-Water-Wetter/dp/B000CPI5ZK

I've made these before. Use Heet. The stuff for cars. You can get it at any corner store. http://www.amazon.com/28201-Gas-Line-Antifreeze-Water-Remover/dp/B0016GXNC4.

Edit: Warning! Do NOT use Iso-Heet. Use the yellow bottle only

How about some stuff other than bling like a Group N pitch rod: https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=1477

Or perhaps some nice Sankei 555 ball joints: http://www.42autosports.com/Sankei-555-Front-Ball-Joints--Subaru_p_258.html

A set of fender braces: http://www.paranoidfabrications.com/shop/2008-super-sweet-cowl-stays-aka-fender-braces/

Crazy idea here but an extended timing belt guide: http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop/product/tom-191263-tomei-timing-belt-guide?ymm=2003-subaru-impreza-wrx-2-0

Some hella sweet DOT4 brake fluid: http://www.amazon.com/ATE-706202-Original-Brake-Fluid/dp/B003VXRPL0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449629716&sr=8-1&keywords=ate+type+200+brake+fluid

Waterless coolant: http://www.amazon.com/Evans-Cooling-Systems-EC53001-Performance/dp/B00TPVI2TQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449629782&sr=8-1&keywords=Waterless+coolant

I can go on. I guess the point I'm making is a person could buy a car girl or guy something for under 60 dollars that could make their vehicle better. Not hating on the coasters or tie or cups, different people like different things. I'd just rather spend my money on gifts to my close car friends that will make their driving experiences and cars better than give them a Subaru pint glass.

Edit: words

I run a lower temp T stat and I'm in soflo. It takes longer to warm up but it takes some nice throttle pounding to go over 210. Water Wetter also helps clear out air bubbles and heat spots causing the engine to run hotter.

This absolutely works. Adding a bottle of HEET to your washer fluid will take of the freezing rain.

https://www.amazon.com/28201-Gas-Line-Antifreeze-Water-Remover/dp/B0016GXNC4

You could probably spin that and have people believe it.

Exhibit A

Mississippian here. The winter was a shock when I first moved here three years ago, but here are a few things that helped me adjust:

1. the right equipment - Winter isn't nearly so bad when you're equipped for it. Buy a good winter coat, hat, and gloves. You'll need an ice scraper for your vehicle, and HEET is a fuel additive that makes it start more easily.
   
2. the right attitude - Winters are cold here, but the surprise for me is how dark they are. Lots of gray days in a row can be depressing. You'll want to make the effort to stay active and connected, and avoid cocooning yourself. You're in luck, though. There are tons of events, Meetup groups, and outdoor sports to participate in.

As long as the car isn’t at operating temp you can add coolant. The system pressurizes at operating temp and you risk severe burns removing the cap. You need to add G13 coolant specifically.

https://www.amazon.com/Recochem-OEM-86-314POEMVW-Antifreeze-Concentrate/dp/B01CGH3HR2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=g13+coolant&qid=1563390577&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Heet works really well and burns clean. It's mostly methanol.

You can buy the Motorcraft Orange recommended in your manual from Amazon for $23: https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-VC-3DIL-B-Pre-Diluted-Antifreeze/dp/B00BNVK1NQ

If you're trying to make sense of Toyota part numbers, it does make sense to call a dealership's parts dept. Then, you can search online. This stuff is sold on Amazon.

Here's one seller's offering, and here is another.

Genuine Subaru coolant concentrate is about $18.
https://amazon.com/gp/product/B00TSGYHI8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yes, you need to use Subaru Super Coolant if you don't flush all of the old coolant out.

You can order it on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Subaru-SOA868V9270-Super-Coolant/dp/B007NLOZAU

Catback with diffuser - 450

Flossy knob - 120

Smoked side markers - 30 (Markers: 25+5 for amber bulbs)

Swede dash wrap - 70

--------------------------------------------

Total: $670

other junk:
$24 - mini repair kit and some metric wrench sockets.
$10 - digital tire gauge.
$30 - tire pump that runs on the cigarette lighter and fits under the mat with the spare tire.
$30 - a jug of Subie Super Coolant.
$17 - a phone mount (don't recommend it)

Stuff I dont care to price out:

• Extra phone cables
  
• Pack of microfiber towels.
  
  -------------------------------------------------------------------------
  
  On the list to come:
  
  
• Smoked Valentis with red light bar
  
• Matching smoked Valenti 4th light
  
• Rays Gramlights 57Xtremes 17x9 in black
  
• 245/40/17 AS3 or similar tires for the new wheels
  
  
  

Nope. Top off with this stuff only, or flush the system out and change it over to zerex asian formula. The Murano has blue coolant.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Nissan-999MP-L25500P-Antifreeze-Coolant/dp/B00AKYOOYY

If you are in a pinch, top off with bottled water. But get your coolant changed afterward, the car is likely due for it anyway.

How crazy do you feel like getting? I think you're not thinking crazy enough. You need more equipment.

As has been mentioned, straight sea water doesn't have enough salt to freeze at a low enough temperature. But if you capture it and let the water evaporate off, it will get more and more concentrated with an ever-lower freezing point. An antifreeze tester will measure the freezing point of a liquid (I think that's how they work, or is it really just measuring glycol concentrations and wouldn't work for salt?), so just fill a kiddie pool with sea water at the beginning of the summer, and keep refilling it as it evaporates. Measure the freezing point, and you can start bottling it when it gets to -20 or so.

0. swedespeed.com like /u/patricknderr mentioned and there's also matt's volvo site which has some how-tos that complement swedespeed's. There's also some good videos from fcpeuro and ipdusa on youtube.
   
   
1. When it came time to replace mine, I was also tempted to go with the cheap ones, but went with a bosch unit from autozone both because I wouldn't trust the cheap ones and becasue it was a bit of a shot in the dark to see if it cleared the code I was getting.
   
   
2. I also have this question, my car only came with a non-fob key and would like to be able to remote-open it, but... I'm not sure if this ability is really $100+
   
   
3. I have the V70 version, same year and model and it comes with CD/Cassette so that's how I do my line-in. I've seen an iphone adapter being sold from IPD (www.ipdusa.com) it's on the expensive side, but you'll be able to keep te stock head if that matters
   
   
4. Like others have said, thermostat, just be aware that you'll need a T-40, I think and as mentioned on most forums, those bolts will be rusted on. Patience, penetrating oil and small impacts are your friends. Also, if replenishing the antifreeze, use volvo fluid or this stuff that's supposed to be equivalent and safe

My water wetter is wetter!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CPI5ZK

Get a can of Yellow HEET or some other form of denatured alcohol. Get a 3 ounce aluminum cat food and punch some holes in it.

Next time there is a power outage, put a 1-2 ounces of denatured alcohol in the bottom of the can, light it, and put a covered pot with water and oatmeal on to boil. Once it is done, eat your oatmeal.

To confirm get UV coolant dye such as https://www.amazon.com/FJC-4926-Universal-Radiator-Coolant/dp/B0049MEDJ4 and any cheap UV light and look for it draining in the backside of the engine/front side of trans. That's how I found my leak.

I think you're definitely on the right track here!

To really verify your theory, you would need to check the pressure on the output end of the fuel filter when it's cold. Long term, you will need to drain and refill the tank.

Have you tried starting up in those temps when you have a full tank of gas? Depending on how much water there is, dilution might be enough to get you going.

When was the last time you replaced your fuel filter? There might be debris caught in the filter that is making the problem worse. You might also consider lightly smacking the filter with a hammer just in case the Arthur Fonzarelli approach will be effective.

Something else to consider is adding a fuel de-icer product. I don't have any personal experience with Heet, but it sounds like it's a common additive for 60 series rigs in the winter.

http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-CL-W0148-Big-Coolant-1000CC/dp/B000XUW78A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1278869731&sr=8-1

This is what I have been using in my setup for a few years now. Magical stuff; no problems at all.
I believe it is just propylene glycol.

Audi Coolant Antifreeze Antigel Refrigerant (Part No. G013A8J1G) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AKYP6KU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3W.TAbCG28826

Subaru Super Blue

Go to the dealer and ask for super coolant. It's blue and it cools things.

That's what I use. I think you can buy it pre-mixed 50/50 also, but if not it is easy enough to do.

The OP specifically asked for coolant available in the UK. I'm not sure Zerex is there.
Here it is in the US Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Zerex-ZXGO51-G-05-Antifreeze-Gallon/dp/B0033QNZZ0

But there are huge discussions about the suitability or not of Prestone or Zerex. I've pretty much just decided that when I do my coolant system flush next that I am going back to OEM. I think I have a clogged heater core as a result of using Zerek the past 30,000 miles.

I ordered this one

https://www.amazon.com/Mopar-Year-Mile-Coolant-Concentrate/dp/B017DP433O

I ordered two gallons, I think it's a 3.5 gallon capacity system so mixing 50/50 ought to get me there. I hope :)

and what about when your dummy light and/or sensor doesn't work?

just buy some coolant and top it off - it's not like have a jug of coolant is a bad thing to keep around

FYI: use this stuff http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BNVK1NQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thank you for your thoughts. I appreciate. I will follow this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s--5ft5YiHg) to super flush the coolant system. So I think all old coolant will be gone. The product I mentioned (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0033QO022) says it is 50/50. So I don't think I need dilute it or add water.

That sucks.

If you really can't go without it then you can take it apart and clean it like the guy in your LTT link. Then just refill it with some distilled water and biocide, or just use like https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-CL-W0148-Big-Coolant-1000CC/dp/B000XUW78A/

Or return it to the store and get another one if you can.

This is what I use

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QXRA00/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I decided to flush the coolant just to be safe as well as for my own sanity. The mixed coolant appears to still be just fine, though. I purchased:

Genuine Ford Fluid VC-3-B Orange Concentrated Antifreeze/Coolant - 1 Gallon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BNVK14U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and

Genuine Ford Fluid VC-1 Premium Cooling System Flush - 22 oz.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NU16UA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

First time I do this, so it should be an interesting weekend!

If you have one of these, use it. If not, get one at your local gittin' spot and use it. Then Id say report back.

Edit: It just occurred to me that you just said your water pump was replaced 2 months ago. So hopefully your coolant is fresh. That doesn't mean it's mixed properly which that gauge will show you.

Also, look at the condition of the inside of the radiator when you have the cap off. Is it fairly clean? Is it rusty with crud lining everything? What's it look like? A ask because how it looks may hint if your radiator is just clogged up with shmoo.

This is heet

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0016GXNC4?pc_redir=1414013292&robot_redir=1

I get it for like $2.50 USD at an auto parts store

nope, from what i understand, over the years they haven't changed much at all with the coolant system so the same applies for all years. infact, i just found the pelican parts tutorial, and i just realized that i used this tutorial when flushing the coolant in my r56 and it was practically identical (link to tutorial http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/MINI/20-WATER-Coolant_Change/20-WATER-Coolant_Change.htm)

as for the comma g-05, i honestly have no clue if that would suffice. I'm not much of an expert on coolant:/ but when in doubt, you could order the the zerex g-05 of amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0033QQ4VW/ref=pd_aw_sim_263_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=51hhihYiDqL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C100_&psc=1&refRID=2N96TRMR3XJHHG2ST5PE) or for just a little bit more, (~$20 usd) you could buy the Mini brand coolant. its available on pelicanparts, there's a link at the bottom of that tutorial. Or if you have a mini dealership nearby, they will also sell it.

have you checked around at any autoparts stores near you to see if they carry either zerex g-05 or the mini brand? I'm looking around on mini forums to see what brand of coolant folks use in the UK, and all i can find is people using zerex g-05, so either people in the UK dont post about their coolant issues or they've found a way to get their hands on some zerex lol. but I'll keep looking:)

edit: warning, that tutorial seems overwhelming, the first half provides a lot of backstory and education on the coolant system. i recommend atleast skimming it, but since its mostly about diagnosing issues, and we pretty much know you should flush your coolant, you can just skim or skip it.

edit #2: It seems that Comma Xstream g48 is the brand to use in the UK, found this listing of products http://www.caarparts.co.uk/Lubricants-Fluids/Coolant-Fluids/Mini/MINI/all/1.6/2001/Parts.aspx and this forum post about it being used in a mini http://www.mini2.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-198155.html

edit #3: yup I've confirmed that the comma xstream g48 is the brand to use in the uk, even saw a forum post from a a former Mini Employee who was recommending it http://www.totalmini.com/forum/49-engine-drivetrain-tuning/4935-antifreeze.html

I bought this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QXRA00/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A properly functioning cooling system would keep things from boiling over during midsummer in Death Valley.

Hill climbs are, of course, more taxing on an engine, but the days of inadequate cooling went out the window with the emissions regulations, because NOx is strongly affected by combustion temperature. So manufacturers were forced to used larger radiators that could handle the edge cases. The takeaway is that anything with a catalytic converter on it (~1976 and newer) should be able to handle any real driving situation you'd ever encounter.

The thermostat is simple and cheap, the radiator not quite as much, but a simple rod job shouldn't cost that much. If the radiator also has pinholes from age, that's when you start thinking about just replacing it, and bumping the number of cores. (Going from a 2-core to a 3-core, etc)

That being said, I am certain that an ambulance would already have an uprated system by the nature of what it is required to do.

If you want to put off dealing with overheating until after the winter, a simple coolant additive like water wetter will buy you better heat transfer between the engine/coolant/radiator/heater core. When I had my Westy, it was pretty much a mandatory-use item, but it will help any vehicle that has a borderline thermal issue.

Speaking of heater cores, car heat is provided by a simple coolant loop to a small radiator inside the passenger compartment. Cranking heat full blast (while not a lot of fun), adds quite a bit of extra cooling to the engine, and is a good way to buy a few more miles before needing to stop if you're on a long uphill.

Last bit, thanks for telling us about your build, and I agree, stealth is the way to go. The built-in appliances and fridge were nice, but I had noticeably more trouble parking in my obviously-a-camper-van than my friends who used more subtle forms of vehicle.

(with the exception of the early wasserboxers than VW Westys used, whose cooling setup was a shitshow across the board. They were VW's first go at watercooling, and, well... VW had a lot to learn.)

No problem. Go into any hardware, paint, or big box store and buy a can of Denatured Alcohol. Another option is HEET antifreeze, which is sold at gas stations, hardware stores, etc. You should get the YELLOW bottle of HEET, and not the red one, which doesn't burn as cleanly.

It just needs to be a high proof alcohol. HEET actually works well.

I'd rethink the idea of doing it as a loop. You'll be spending half your trip rehiking trail you've already hiked. Wouldn't you rather spend the second half seeing some new scenery? Compared to cost of spending 3 months on the trail the price of a train or bus ticket home is pretty minimal. And don't bother trying to predict the stopping point in advance - you won't know how far you'll be able to hike until you're actually out there doing it, and trying to hike to schedule will definitely compromise the experience. Just wing it, you'll be able to coordinate the travel arrangements along the way.

If you want to experience more of social aspects of the AT's trail culture, instead of starting in MD, hop on down to Georgia and start walk towards home. (It's a <$100 amtrak ticket) You'll be in the thick of the nobo thru-hiker group, and depending on your speed you may be just about on your doorstep by late July. Or, if you start from MD in April and head south (too early to really head very far north) you'll be largely by yourself until you start crossing nobo's in VA in late May. You'll also find that a lot of the hiker-oriented business, hostels and the like, aren't open that far north yet. They tend to time their seasons around the arrival of the nobo herd. Either way would work, it just depends on what sort of experience you're looking to have. (imo, if you're looking for a solo wilderness experience the AT is not necessarily the best choice. The social aspect is what really makes the AT special.)

The majority of At thru-hikers carry either homemade alcohol stoves or butane/propane canister stoves, with white-gas stoves a pretty distant third. Alcohol fuel is the most available of the three, being available in pretty much every gas station, grocery store, or hardware store along the way. Most of the hostels and outfitters along the way also sell it by the ounce - you just top off you fuel bottle and pay for it by weight. Butane canisters are widely available at outfitters, but you do need to do a little more planning ahead. Because you can't tell for sure when the canister will run out you end up carrying 2 canisters - a full and an almost empty - for a chunk of the time.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Subaru-SOA868V9270-Super-Coolant/dp/B007NLOZAU Use prime shipping/ get rush delivery. Still probably cheaper than whatever the dealer is charging.

^ Yeah this. I just changed mine and used [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Zerex-675130-Vehicle-Antifreeze-Coolant/dp/B0033QO022)

Genuine Chrysler 68163848AB Coolant Antifreeze https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PLY38R2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_a2nYBbHJP7FA1

HEET is 1 option

• https://www.amazon.com/28201-Gas-Line-Antifreeze-Water-Remover/dp/B0016GXNC4
  
  Denatured Alcohol is another option
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Denatured-Alcohol-Solvent-1-qt/dp/B0090QFFJQ

you will be surprised at just how much temperatures go down with a simple coolant flush. i reached 248°F on a 90°F day, it scared me. i flushed the coolant and the next day the ambient temp was 105°F on the same trip, my coolant didn't reach 190°F.
to take it a step further mix ONLY "water wetter" and water. :)

If that is the level immediately after you've been driving it for an hour, it does seem your car has lost coolant abnormally quickly for just 5k miles. Before topping it off, I would bring it by the dealership so they can check for leaks. As long as your reservoir isn't bone-dry, you're not going to be in danger of running low on coolant.

In terms of topping off the coolant, be sure to use Subaru Super Blue coolant (http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Subaru-SOA868V9270-Super-Coolant/dp/B007NLOZAU). Mixing with another formulation (color) will decrease its lifespan. Just pour into the reservoir tank you see in your picture.

The blue stuff is premixed 50/50 with distilled water so you're fine. Here's a link on Amazon but you can just grab it from the local dealer as well. http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Subaru-SOA868V9270-Super-Coolant/dp/B007NLOZAU

Here's the Toyota version they use for the FR-S/GT86: http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-Fluid-00272-GTBC1-Coolant/dp/B00AKYP114

You can try some of this

Did it have any studering or loss of power in those few days? I think symptoms show earlier but I could be wrong. Might try /r/MechanicAdvice

Thank you so much for the post reply, I have a manual transmission and the car is at 140,000 but had a 40k mike transmission in it

For the coolant I found this on amazon, this looks like the right type, not sure how much I’ll need

BMW 82141467704 Grey Antifreeze Coolant - 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QXRA00/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oty4DbK6CBB1A


For the pump to get the fluids out how does this look?

Slippery Pete Fluid Pump for Quart Bottles - Transfer Gear Oil, Transmission and Differential Fluid with This 5cc Hand Pump (1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CX4XKFH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vyy4DbB6MA7TC

Here’s the brake fluid?

ATE Brake Fluid DOT 4 SL.6 (2 Liters) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009SNFBV8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hAy4DbVXHJYVR


I’m having trouble finding the mtf it3 do you have a link?

Thanks for all the help

If you really can't trace it back just looking for the leak you can use coolant leak detection dye. (not sure what kind you'd need with your recommended coolant but example)

Yes Dexcool is a brand, its a trademarked GM brand they license.


And yes ford uses the same dexcool formula. Its under the WSS-M97B44-D requirement. So look at ford coolant if it says meets WSS-M97B44-D or part number VC-3-B, that's basically dexcool.

Even amazon sells Fords "dexcool".
http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-VC-3-B-Concentrated-Antifreeze/dp/B00BNVK14U
They just call it "Orange Antifreeze/Coolant".


The older gold HOAT coolant ford used for a short while will be part number VC-7-B

? I don't know what you mean but here is link to special diet supplement that he uses https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-Zerex-Antifreeze-Coolant-Ready/dp/B0033QQ4VW/ref=br_lf_m_g75tw8e6jyvx4yk_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=automotive

The popular brand is Heet.

http://www.amazon.com/28201-Gas-Line-Antifreeze-Water-Remover/dp/B0016GXNC4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1332249326&sr=8-1