(Part 2) Best aquarium water treatment products according to redditors
We found 1,934 Reddit comments discussing the best aquarium water treatment products. We ranked the 240 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
I flipped through the 23 pages of "Pet supplies" and selected every fish-related item I saw. Times are in EDT.
Prime Day Fish Deals:
API Products:
Filters:
Tanks:
Etc.:
Step 1
Cyanobacteria. What kind of water do you use? Usually blooms with tap water. The first tank I had I used tap water years ago, had that stuff constantly. Chemiclean keeps it at bay.
Chemi-Clean - 2 g https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00025YRJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ymoSDbZCX9GC3
Hey that's cool trick (my Raiku can do jumps through hoops too!) however, I would recommend getting a lid on that tank asap, especially since you taught him to jump. Bettas can and do jump out of the tank for any reason, and it's pretty risky to leave the tank open w/out a lid like that especially if you taught your betta to jump. There's many sad posts on reddit about a betta that jumped out of its tank to its death or if the owner was able to rescue the betta it still ended up quite injured from going out of the tank. https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/search/?q=betta%20jumped%20out&restrict_sr=1
Another thing I wanna bring up, it looks like you're feeding the betta with flake food?
Unfortunately, flake food is among the worst quality of foods for a betta (tons of junk fillers). I'd recommend a high quality betta pellet like NorthFin Betta Bits, New Life Spectrum betta, or Fluval/Nutrafin bug bites. You should also consider adding other variety of treat foods to give the betta a varied diet rather than them eating only the same thing for every meal day in and day out.
- https://www.amazon.com/Northfin-Food-Betta-Pellet-Package/dp/B00M4Q5DQ4/ <-- my favorite go-to betta pellet
- https://www.amazon.com/New-Life-Spectrum-Betta-70g/dp/B077MG4JR2/
- https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A6577-Tropical-Granules-Medium/dp/B07194GD1F/
- Bloodworms with vitamins added: https://www.amazon.com/Hikari-Bio-Pure-Freeze-Dried-0-42-Ounce/dp/B00025K1GQ/
- ZooMed Betta Dial-A-Treat is a decent 3-in-1 treat wheel container which has 3 different treats for betta diet variety. https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Laboratories-AZMBP5-0-12-Ounce/dp/B003ZWCTZO/
- You can also try adding a vitamin drops to the food AND tank water - VitaChem Freshwater - Vitamin drops for aquatic animals - REFRIGERATION needed after first use/opening, to keep the liquid vitamin drops fresh. https://www.amazon.com/Boyd-Enterprises-ABE16708-Freshwater-Vitachem/dp/B00BS96V78
Beware of overfeeding, which is equally bad for bettas as underfeeding (they are gluttons and would eat till they burst if given the chance) https://i.imgur.com/4RR2LZ9.jpg. (save this pic for reference, feed betta as much as makes his belly match between 1st and 2nd photo, then let him digest back down to a normal belly before feed again.)
Wow, he does look really rough. You could try Kanaplex or Maracyn?
I had a problem with Cyano, I used this stuff
Chemi-Clean
> The only thing I've done different lately was using API algaefix
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Really sorry to say this, but that's the issue most likely, it's known to kill fish. The reviews are quite damning. No idea why but you're not the first to come to this sub with this issue.
Do a big water change asap, 75% should be ok, but a full change should be fine if you feel that it needs it.
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Hey i don't know what part broke off of it. If you don't mind your piece looking a bit a shabby you can get aquarium putty epoxy, and that should seal that hole up. Also its non-toxic so you don't have to worry about it poisoning you.
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_viewitem.aspx?idproduct=TL1613&amp;child=TL1617&amp;utm_source=adwordsfroogle&amp;utm_medium=cse&amp;utm_campaign=adwordsfroogle&amp;utm_content=TL1617&amp;gclid=CLTvy7Ss-bgCFdGj4AodDBkAXg
http://www.amazon.com/Instant-Ocean-HF-1-HoldFast-Aquariums/dp/B001JSXBYO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1376360036&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=aquarium+epoxy
It doesn't have to be either of these specifically but they could work.
If you kept the water that came with the tank: do 20% water changes each day for 5 days, that way the fish will slowly acclimate to clean water, otherwise it might be stressed.
If you already are using clean water cause you threw out the old water:
This should clean up the tank in a major way.
Im amazed the fish survived that.
Also please post what other equipment came with the tank.
Dont get discouraged! you are a very nice person for wanting to make a better environment for a helpless animal! :)
best of luck!!!
forgot to mention add an airstone and a heater to the bucket with the fish!
Edit: (This is just a bonus not necessary) after you finish you may want to kickstart the bio filtration, so the fish doesnt get burned by its own ammonia, something like this will help immensely: https://www.amazon.com/Instant-Ocean-BIO-Spira-Treatment-Aquariums/dp/B003ODDS5E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526508607&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=BIO-SPIRA
I’m sorry to say the above comments are right. Common goldfish get over 1 foot in length and are incredibly messy fish. They really belong in a pond, but you could theoretically keep one in 75 gallon (but a 90 gallon is the same footprint with a little more height, offering more water and therefore easier to keep clean). Really, they should have a tank that is at least 6 foot long and 18 inches wide, but a 75 (4 feet and 18 inches wide) would be the bare minimum. Anything narrower and the fish will have trouble turning around as goldfish get over 12-14 inches long if they are healthy. They will stay smaller if their growth is stunted, but this is extremely unhealthy for them and results in a much shorter lifespan. With a 75 or 90 gallon, be prepared to do 30-50% waterchanges every week (which should be pretty easy with a system like the python. You won’t need a heater, but you will need a great filter. I recommend a canister filter, but if that is out of your price range two of these or better yet two of these will work well. Goldfish are plant eaters so you won’t have to worry about plants, so you can get whatever light you like/what’s cheapest. Big tanks are expensive, but you can often find them used along with the stands (which saves a ton of money). You can also get a 75 gallon half off from Petco during the dollar-per-gallon sale, and then build your own stand (tons of plans online). For substrate, I would buy pool filter sand (very cheap and great for goldfish, it can’t get stuck in their mouths like gravel and it looks awesome, it’s easy to keep clean too). There are a lot of ways to cut costs, especially with a goldfish tank that doesn’t need a filter or fancy light. Feel free to ask any questions, and please do some research on the nitrogen cycle (introduction ) it’s the most important thing you can possibly learn as a new fishkeeper! You will need a test kit too, to test your water. Don’t bother with test strips as they are very inaccurate, go ahead and get this. If you want to cycle the tank quickly and without a hassle, this is the only one that really works. Welcome to the wonderful world of fishkeeping! Best of luck with your pet! Goldfish are lots of fun.
Edit: petsmart has a 75 gallon tank with stand, lid, and light for half off today for Black Friday (at $249 a screaming deal for a brand new tank!!) if you are interested.
> even putting him in the toilet while they cleaned his bowl)
are you kidding me... ugh people.
I'm really going back and forth on if it's an ulcer (I know stuff I'm just not very good at diagnosing online sometimes). Malafix and pimafix should work. If he's not distraught, you can wait for the shipping if your local fish stores are selling them for a ton (mine was charging $30 for a 4oz of malafix...) or just don't have them. Biggest thing is make sure the label says it can treat ulcers.
Urine aside.... what was ammonia at initially after adding the.... urine...? Was it higher than 3 ppm? 11 days isn't overly long. I used powdered ammonium to start a cycle recently and ended up with 8 ppm! Took almost 4 weeks drop to 0 ppm, and about 2 weeks before seeing any movement. What did add for beneficial bacteria? Something like this?
He might not like the food. I would get pellets from omega one or north fin. Also get bloodworms, brine shrimp and daphnia. Get omega one or Hikari brand or you risk harmful parasites. While your out you might want to stop over to dollar tree and get tweezers to pick the food up with and some small containers to refrigerate food in so you can feed him thawed food for at least 3 days after its been thawed. I’d also get him this sometime vitamins you put it in their water weekly, 1 drop per gallon. You also put a drop in their food daily.
You can get kanaplex or Furan-2 (nitrofurazone) on amazon via prime.
It will help out tremendously with the cycle, I also have had luck using the product Fluval Cycle at the same time as using established media.
this will work.
You can even find ammonia at the supermarket, you just need to make sure it is 100% pure ammonia with no soaps or scents added.
In all honesty, the dead shrimp will be easier. You will need to remember to add the ammonia every day, maybe even multiple times. The shrimp you toss in the water until it rots to nothing, then add another one. Just put it somewhere out of the way.
I would actually establish his 5-gallon tank with a fishless cycle, and set him up a small temporary "hospital tank" to treat the fin rot in the meantime.
I always prefer to move my fish to a small, bare tank for medication that doesn't have an established filter, because medication can crash your cycle. So for his permanent home, I would start on a fishless cycle by setting everything up with the gravel, filter, etc and add some ammonia like this to get the fishless cycle going. You can follow the directions on the bottle and use your water test kit to test for ammonia in the water to determine when the cycle has established, and ammonia levels are safe again.
While the tank is cycling, set up a medicated hospital tank (in fact you can do this now before you set up his man tank so that you can start treating his fin rot before it gets too severe.) Set up a small bare tank with a heater set to about 80 degrees fahrenheit/about 26 celcius. Add a little freshwater aquarium salt, and dose an antibacterial medication like Melafix for the fin rot.
Hospital tanks shouldn't have carbon filters, since carbon will just remove medications. You simply need to do daily water changes with clean, treated water (I recommend Seachem Prime for dechlorination and removing heavy metals. Even better if the water is also carbon filtered.) Remember when you change water you have to add medication and salt back in. You can add a small sponge filter to a hospital tank if you want just to keep water flowing and to filter out debris, I use this little filter for my hospital tank.
Lastly, but still very important: When you move him, you'll have to acclimate him slowly. Bag him up in a Ziplock bag with the water from his vase. Float the bag in the hospital tank (preferable already at 80 degrees) so that he can slowly acclimate to the temperature, and add a little bit of the hospital tank water to his bag every 5 to 10 minutes. I would take about 30 minutes to let him acclimate before releasing him in the tank. Acclimation is important because temperature and parameter change can cause shock.
What a tough little guy. I'm impressed he's been able to pull through in these terrible conditions. That water must be absolutely toxic. Best of luck to you in helping him pull through!
Looks like cyanobacteria. I have used this in my freshwater tank with absolute success:
https://www.amazon.com/Boyd-Enterprises-CC02-Chemi-Clean-2/dp/B00025YRJS/ref=pd_cp_199_2?pd_rd_w=oO9g5&amp;pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&amp;pf_rd_r=GCD8F1VBRZYZNQW6Y2GK&amp;pd_rd_r=f5be8ac1-4f6a-4d8f-ac91-384d276113e8&amp;pd_rd_wg=sZvdR&amp;pd_rd_i=B00025YRJS&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=GCD8F1VBRZYZNQW6Y2GK
This looks like cyano to me. I had it years ago. I used this stuff. Never came back. Reef safe.
https://www.amazon.com/Boyd-Enterprises-CC02-Chemi-Clean-2/dp/B00025YRJS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524358863&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=cyanobacteria
I would also get a small media reactor and run GFO if I were you. I am. I have a sulfur reactor, GFO reactor, and skimmer going 24/7. Make sure to have a good cleanup crew.
The hardest part will probably be finding the right glass to start with. The stuff they carry at hardware stores is often thinner than you want. I usually just cannibalize another tank for these kinds of things -- cracked tanks are often free on Craigslist.
The google machine can tell you how to cut glass, it's not too hard. You can get a hand glass-cutting tool at the hardware store, which is like a tiny pizza cutter that you run along the glass where you want to make the cut (guide it with a ruler). This scores the glass so that it can be snapped along the scored line.
You'll want some clamps and thin flat boards, so that you can clamp the glass sheet between the work surface and a board (with the strip you want to cut off hanging over the edge) and clamp some boards around the strip you want to cut off so that you can apply even pressure along the length of the strip. If your score was clean and your clamps are right, you should be able to press down on the board-sandwiched strip and cleanly snap it off. Once you have your strips, stick them on with some silicone. I've used regular GE silicone (without the mold-inhibitor) but this is probably better.
The glass cutting and silicone-applying will take practice. Practice joining glass scraps with the caulk before you try it on the tank. Shit's a mess, and if gets smeared outside the seam, it's a major pain to remove, even while wet.
(I’m no expert but) I’m pretty sure bettas almost always love bigger spaces as long as they have plenty of clutter to hide in. I’d recommend getting some fake silk plants to provide some more hiding areas. Beware of ordering silk plants from amazon though, they’re usually not made of silk and/or aren’t as pictured. I love and definitely recommend the silk plants from Petco! They’re usually between $4 and $6 each or you could get a 3-pack for $10. :)
You could also consider getting them a floating betta log or some kind of cave-like thing that isn’t see-through to hide in. Just make sure any rough edges are filed down so this little guy doesn’t hurt himself further.
As for the potential fin-biting: if your current treatment doesn’t work, do NOT add aquarium salt directly into the tank. While it is generally true that aquarium salt helps to heal fins, it is best to set up a separate tank with aquarium salt that you can put your buddy in for a few minutes (will have to re-set it up every time). This is because the aquarium salt can (and usually will) disrupt your biofilter! The stuff I use and has worked wonders for my boys is Seachem’s StessGuard . It’s safe to add directly into your tank and it’s okay for use with pretty much any fish, plants, salt/freshwater, you name it.
Edit: spelling
Haven't used it myself but this is an option.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003SNDNQ4
Definitely buy something that's already a complete package. I use Aquatek regulators, and they've got a decent entry-level regulator (doesn't come with a tank/diffuser but does have a bubble counter and hose.)
Thank you all so much for your patience! thoothsk is right, i should have given more information. I hate when people call me for tech support and say "my computer isnt working, can you come fix it" when they just need to load paper into their printer or some other equally as frustrating lack of detail. So here goes:
Pic Of Tank
1.10G Heater so the temp is about 78
So, i think that is all the answers, and again. Thank you for your patience. I should have given more details.
My main question is should i throw these 6 java fern plants out, or are they salvageable in the condition they are in, if i give them time? I believe i will not order from this vendor again.
EDIT: i have no fish in the tank. :) I have a 55G tank that i used to put lots of fake plants in because i love the look of plants, so this 5 gallon is my attempt at starting plants first. Fish when allll is well.
EDIT 2:
Purigen comes in two different types: Packed and loose. It helps with the clarity of the water and helps your water quality so it's a favorite among enthusiasts.
If you buy the loose, you'll have to make your own bag or buy a pre-made bag. A lot of people will do this so that they can have back-up bags ready for when they are recharging their Purigen(s). Personally, I have two packed bags since I run only one tank and it's pretty small.
You clean or "recharge" the Purigen when it becomes dark brown or black. You soak it in a mixture of 1:1 water and regular bleach for 24hrs, then soak it in water with 4tbsp of dechlorinator, and then there is a buffering step but I skip it.
In my 6.5 tank it took about 2 years for my Purigen to become a dark-ish brown.
In my small canister I have a couple of filter medias and the Purigen. Don't need anything else too fancy. YMMV as I don't know what kind of tank you are setting up :)
I was researching it for some time and noticed a comment where the purigen interfered with chemicals that removes chlorine except for seachem prime. Now I'm considering holding it off until I use up my API stress coat to buy the prime and purigen together.
Here is the info I got it from (it's the 3 stars review)
http://www.amazon.com/Seachem-166-Purigen-250ml/product-reviews/B000255PJE/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&amp;showViewpoints=1
This stuff is notoriously hard to get rid of. Urine contains urea. Lots of nitrogen. As it gets broken down by bacteria it releases ammonia, which is what you are smelling.
Normally I'd just remove the carpet and any soiled underlayment as well, but since that's not an option I would look for some way to remove the ammonia.
One option would be to set up an air filtration system right near the source. Personally I'd probably build one. Would need a water reservoir, an pump and some of this stuff. Suck in the air near the source of the odor and run it through water. Ammonia is water soluble so it'll get trapped in the water and then absorbed via the activated carbon/ammonia absorbed crystal stuff.
Possibly worth taking that stuff, mashing it into a fine powder, mixing with water and applying directly to carpet.
If you're not handy with the DIY stuff you could probably find premade water based air filter system and add the mix to it.
I just posted this in another thread, but I've had good results with Melafix rather than salt or other chemicals; whenever I've used it, within 12 hours I start seeing fins grow back.
It does sound like you're already seeing some regrowth -- the ends turning clear bit. The clear stuff is new fin, so that's what you want!
Had a similar problem with cyano last year. Someone on reddit suggested chemiclean http://www.amazon.com/Boyd-Enterprises-719958167146-Chemi-Clean-2/dp/B00025YRJS Worked a treat after I gave up trying everything else
Here’s a link to it!
Silicone 3 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ASD2K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_knVDCbRR1G5WM
Yeah, I'd recommend https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Silicone-Sealant-10-ounce-Clear/dp/B0002ASD34/ref=sr_1_4?crid=22X5GZ1M1F7PZ&amp;keywords=fish+tank+silicone+sealant&amp;qid=1563417265&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=fish+tank+sili%2Caps%2C128&amp;sr=8-4 It's a little on the pricey side but fish tanks are never cheap either way lol and I myself have used it before and it has worked. If you're looking for a cheaper alternative maybe look at the ingredients and see what other products have close-to the same stuff in it
I wouldnt use epoxy, thats pretty volatile. You may be better of using some silicone sealant. I think that would be safer to be sitting in water for long periods. Don't want any chemicals leeching into your herbs.
edit:something like this aquarium sealant may do the trick. http://www.amazon.com/All-Glass-Aquarium-Silicone-Sealant/dp/B0002ASD34
Ultra life slime stain remover on amazon for 15 bucks. Didn’t have as much as you but I treated it once and haven’t had any problems since. It say remove as much as you can physically. Remove invertebrates. And treat.
https://www.amazon.com/Ultralife-Products-Slime-Stain-Remover/dp/B0002DKB6S/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?adgrpid=59689509727&amp;gclid=CjwKCAjw36DpBRAYEiwAmVVDMLnn7njBU1mX7Cg5_3xIUA059RuJMtWADACZmb9cZQGmayGF7Yx9_BoCUAsQAvD_BwE&amp;hvadid=274740365185&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvlocphy=9028790&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvpos=1t1&amp;hvqmt=e&amp;hvrand=7734739605173178729&amp;hvtargid=aud-649564993678%3Akwd-301165085459&amp;hydadcr=14344_9785824&amp;keywords=ultralife+red+slime+remover&amp;qid=1562997402&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-2
I recently battled BGA for months. It took over my glass, gravel, plants, wood, and rocks. You name it, it was probably there. Like you I had pretty much given up fighting it. By chance, I was recommended this product by a fellow hobbyist. Let me tell you, within 72 hours my BGA was almost completely gone. Most had died and had settled in a fluffy pile on the substrate, and what hadn't was barely clinging to whatever surface it was on. I hope this helps.
Edit: I just realized they also sell a product Labeled as "Blue-Green Slime Remover" as well, however I used the "Red Slime" product and it did work great.
I've been having the same problem as you, but I found this one product at my LFS. https://www.amazon.com/Ultralife-Products-Slime-Stain-Remover/dp/B0002DKB6S/ref=pd_rhf_gw_p_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=PGP46JJVJ675KXXXDJTF
I used it and within days all the cyano was gone. I recommend doing a water change, scrubbing all the cyano then dose it. Sorry for the sales pitch lol, just its such an awesome product that killed all the cyano.
Yup! It’s this stuff here, you should be able to find it at Petsmart/Petco too.
https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116052306-StressGuard-500ml/dp/B001F0KX06?th=1&amp;psc=1
You can coat the inside of the hide with waterproof epoxy, like the kind used for aquarium repair. That would take care of any roughness.
Depending on what you are trying to glue I would advise silicon 1 or this for fastening objects inside the tank together.
That is awesome! I need to get my wife on Facebook more often ;)
Question: Are the two large pieces of limestone (left side of the tank) attached? I'd worry about the top piece sliding/falling and possibly cracking the glass.
I just set up my own 55 gallon tank for African cichlids and used Instant Ocean HoldFast to connect some of the larger/more unstable pieces together.
Here's a picture of my tank.
Amazon.ca, as always. I didn't see it anywhere in LFS.
It sounds like your on the right path. I would dose prime on days your not water changing tho just to detoxify the ammonia. Would also pick up some kind of bacteria in a bottle I’ve had great success with tetra safe start plus another option is seachem stability
Good luck
Hi there! You've probably already seen the info sheet stickied here, but also this page about the nitrogen cycle was super-helpful for me, personally. A filter is good, but it's much better if you get your tank's cycle all set up and running properly. Right now, the filter is only going to pull out debris mechanically from the water; the nitrogen cycle will help biologically remove toxins from your water column, mainly ammonia from waste and such, that can hurt Finley's quality of life.
I don't have experience with your specific filter, although as a general rule, filters included with tanks aren't always ideal... for a 3.5gal, filters like this one are pretty well-reviewed. I have used it myself on a 5.5gal, although you might want to baffle it a bit so the flow doesn't blow Finley around the tank; a sponge can be used here, or something fancier.
You'll probably want to complete a fish-in cycle to give Finley the best possible environment. As far as filter material (you can see it on the image in that filter I linked), you'll want both mechanical and biological filter media (where you beneficial bacteria colony will live). Some people also use chemical filtration, like carbon inserts, but mechanical/biological is fine for a nano tank.
Fish-in cycling is not preferable, but totally doable. I've done it, you just have to really stay on top of water changes/parameters to make sure Finley's home doesn't get too toxic for him while you're starting your cycle. I swear by Tetra SafeStart+, never had a problem kick-starting a cycle with it, but not everyone has good experiences with "bottled bacteria." Do you have a water-testing kit? This one is the most accurate/popular, I think.
I hope this helps! I was very confused in the beginning, myself, and slowly learned how everything worked with help from this sub. Let us know what else you need help with! :)
It looks like your pond gets a good amount of sun, while that is a good thing to have sun it also leads to algae. First thing I would do is do at least a 25% water change (50 is better but if you don't want to replace that much water you don't have to) my local pond supply store has a vacuum made for ponds that you can rent for ~$20.
After that I would get some plants that will grow across the surface to create shade (water lilies or parrots feather are some easy to take care of ones). If that doesn't work I would suggest trying some chemical means to get rid of it Algaefix. If you're trying to cycle a new pond, which is what it sounds like, I would test your water in a pond store. After that I would say that youre ready to add fish.
I'm going to say this honestly as someone who has invested time and energy into diy co2
Get this thing
Or something similar. by the time you buy all the ingredients and make trips to the store, buy the exacto-knives to cut your holes. you're already investing a lot of time and money into something that's only going to cause you hassle and inconsistent results in the long run. (inconsistant co2 is what gives you black beard algae BTW)
IMO bought their paintball regulator and I would never go back.
As to answer your question I don't remember how I did any of the specifics, this video is a goldmine of information though
yeah excel would melt the java fern as well. If you want a good carpet you should go with more light, and a walstad tank or a co2 system. co2 can be daunting at first, but I have this regulator and it works very well for me. depending on what type of filter you have you need to pick a diffusor, and with a tank you are technically ready to go. I upgraded my bubble counter to a JBJ style and got a drop checker for safety but those are optional.
Make sure you're dosing CO2 and nutrients (Flourish contains copper, if you have crustaceans then try this one ).
You can also use a CO2 gas diffuser rather than a carbon-containing liquid. Those setups are more expensive; I don't use one so maybe someone who does could explain how they work, but I hear they're very effective for larger tanks. My tanks are 5.5 G and 20 G and the liquid works fine for me.
You could also try adding inverts that eat decaying plant matter, such as snails and shrimp, if they're compatible with your setup. Also check your water parameters and make sure nothing crazy is going on, though since I assume your fish are fine then that would be my last guess.
I would recommend setting up the 55g, flood the tank and make sure to use a water conditioner. Set up your plants in the 55g, then move your filter media over to the 55g. Use API Quick Start to help seed the new media, then transfer your fish.
Your plants and filter media all contain the bacteria you need in the new tank. If you've got any drift wood, rocks, ect, move them into the 55g too.
Give it a couple weeks, test everything, then buy more fish.
Your tank looks cool!
I’m sorry to say that I don’t think you’re actually cycled. Being cycled means that there’s a colony of beneficial bacteria that eats ammonia and converts it to nitrite and then finally to nitrate.
Having your tank cycled means that on your tests you’ll see zero ammonia, near zero or zero nitrites and some nitrates.
What the pic of your test tubes is showing is zero across all three meaning that the cycle has probably not really occurred.
Daily water changes in a noncycled tank is great for fish happiness but if you’re taking all of the ammonia out of the tank with daily changes there’s not much for the bacteria to eat to start your cycle. If I were you I’d buy some quick start from amazon and maybe cut down on the water changes a bit but keep testing the water to make sure there isn’t a huge ammonia spike.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006YG12F6/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519272319&amp;sr=sr-1&amp;keywords=aquarium+quick+start
Quickstart has the bacteria already in it and after a few doses you’ll be cycled.
Here's my suggested shopping list:
The API Water Testing Kit - about $22 at Amazon, might be more expensive at a pet shop
Indian Almond Leaves - ($7) I put in a fresh 1/4 a leaf each week
VitaChem - ($11) vitamin drops to help with color and fins - a drop a day and he'll swim around and hunt for the vitamin specs
Polisher Filter - ($3) Use scissors and cut a couple of chunks for the back compartment in the Marineland tank. It helps slow the flow down a little and kept the water super clean.
I am an advocate of Kanaplex because it saved my boy. Read up on it, see if this is right for you.
Is the Fruval starter bacteria? If so, you'll still need to add a water conditioner to remove Chlorine and Chloramines from the water. I don't know much about sorority tanks but from what I read here you need to have enough girls to establish a pecking order and 2 wouldn't be enough. From what I read you'd want to have at least 3 together to have a proper hierarchy.
EDIT: is this what you added? That is a water conditioner too!
First of all you started completely wrong.
When beginning or establishing a tank put the water with benificial bacteria in the tank and let your filter run for around 6 weeks after which you do every 2 weeks a 25% water change. This is the way and only way to establish a tank with beneficial bacteria. Your pet store sucks for not telling you this.
You went completely past this and also loaded fish in there. I advise you to at least do 25% water changes on a weekly basis for 2 months to make sure your remaining fish survive. Do not put new fish or frogs in there.
Help your fish by putting some live plants in there, which will give the water extra oxygen.
To dechlorine your water I advise purchasing this:
Fluval Water Conditioner for Aquariums, 16.9-Ounce
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G25IA6S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Rg59AbEMZBXK3
And throw this in with every water change as well:
Hagen Fluval Biological Enhancer/Booster for Aquariums, 16.9-Ounce
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G25IAN6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tg59Ab7VYSB3R
To fight nitrate I advise you buy some “live Marimo balls” and just put them in there. It’s not going to absorb all the nitrate but it helps and is beautiful.
Google is your friend and do research.
You’ll get there
Just to be sure! In the future you will need to clean your filter as well. Never ever do this with tap water, because you then open the gates of hell upon your fish. When cleaning your filter always do this with water you took out of your tank.
Depending on the size of your setup, you may be able to do it in a week or so with this: https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Aquarium-Start-Bacteria-Aquariums/dp/B00N26P856 (Amazon price is a bit high, I got this bottle for $3 at walmart)
My small 40 gallon setup cycled in around 5 days with 2 bottles of this added as well as ammonia daily. Larger setups will definitely take longer.
Maybe use something like this?
Tetra Aquarium Safe Start Bacteria for Aquariums, 3.38 oz - 77965 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N26P856/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ePKRCbKFFTCYZ
It got really high because I put plants in not thinking about how the water parameters could kill them. So they all died and the ammonia went nuts. Removed them all, did the water change and now it seems to be sitting at 2-4.
DrTim's Aquatics Ammonium Chloride for Fishless Cycling https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WSNYRDS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZHaVAb4GMCDAH this is what I used for my ammonia source.
I've heard rave reviews about Purigen
I also use this in a filter bag inside the filter. Has really helped with the nitrites and nitrates.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255PJE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Two cats, a big 'ol dog, a fish tank, and two kids. Plus a husband with horrific gas.
I'm super sensitive to certain scents, so it's really a lot of trial and error.
I've found that cinnamon or anything similar in the spicy scents works great and doesn't trigger any bad reactions from me. Apple Cinnamon is okay, but some brands are too sweet.
Febreeze puts out a Cranberry Frost around Christmas, and I stock up on that shit because it's the best.
I also fell in love with the Mulled Cider candles and wax melts from Walmart. I've got that going in a Scensty warmer almost 24/7.
I haven't tried it yet, but there's this stuff that's meant for fish tanks, but people sometimes also use it for other odors like litter boxes.
Screw undergravel filters and you don't need a sump. The 2 HOBs should be good for a while if they combine to exceed 100gph. You can upgrade to a canister filter later on if the need arises. Personally I like having 2 filters running incase one fails/jams, the other can continue to circulate water at least.
As for the transfer:
Put the new filter in the old tank and begin running it along with the other 2, also take some of your old media from the established filters and add it to the new ones filtermedia compartment.
Fill 75g with rinsed substrate and decor/plants. And Slowly add water so as to not disturb the substrate (preventing cloudiness)
Once filled, transfer an old HOB into the new tank to continue the tank cycling, youll probably encounter a mini cycle at first so dont add fish for at least a week or more. If your antsy about moving all the fish asap then I thoroughly recommend getting a can of this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/Marineland-PA0392-Activated-Neutralizing-1417-Gram/dp/B0002566YM
And adding it, in a mesh sack, to your HOB filter. (To be replaced weekly until your cycle is complete, about a month)
Please be specific about further questions you need answered.
The Background:
My tentative setup right now has a two gallon reservoir watering a three gallon Smart Pot. I have a 5-10 gal fish tank filter that I've also added an [activated carbon/ammonia neutralizing crystal] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002566YM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) filter and leveled filter to. I let my water set at room temperature (cycling through the filter) for several days before giving it to the plant. The water is exposed to 388 watts (~84,000lm) of warm and cool white LEDs in a Carbon Dioxide rich environment with filtered airflow.
My city water report is as follows, with ideal levels, followed by current city water levels:
I presume the Haloacetic Acids are the chlorine they use in the water treatment.
The Questions:
Sorry, not in front of a computer, but I use this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002566YM?pc_redir=1406850328&amp;robot_redir=1
Looks like it's something blended with the carbon to specifically help with removing ammonia. I got mine at Petco.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002566WY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421005230&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41UaltM8m%2BL&amp;ref=plSrch.
This one is for clear water
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002566YM/ref=pd_aw_sims_3?pi=SS115&amp;simLd=1
This one is for ammonia and much cheaper
I have a sponge over my HOB intake and use Melafix to treat tears.
We always used Melafix for such things. A great product.
I am aware it wouldn't treat the worms, that treatment you would have to continue. And tea tree is great, that's essentially what API Melafix is. The only reason I said to stop using it if you started the paraguard is you don't want to overload with medications, and I've found that sometimes you need something with a little more punch for certain infections. I own and have used both tea tree and Paraguard and have found Paraguard tends to be a better general cure, especially if you aren't sure what you're treating. You could also consider the use of aquarium salt if you wanted to try a more natural route.
With all that said, doing large daily water changes would be your best bet right now. High nitrites are an indicator that your tank isn't properly cycled, which is most likely the root cause of the illness/deaths in your tank. A properly cycled tank should show 0ppm ammonia, 0ppm nitrite, and a nitrate value below 20ppm. Without proper water quality, no amount of medication is going to help, unfortunately. I would do at least 30-50% water changes and you should see improvement. Good luck!
I had the same issue; tried cleaning crews with no effect. Also doubled the flow by adding a second circulation pump, still to no avail.
I then tried Chemiclean (https://www.amazon.com/Boyd-Enterprises-CC02-Chemi-Clean-2/dp/B00025YRJS) and it worked really well. Took 2 days with carbon removed, but at the end of it, no red slime algae then or since.
https://amzn.to/2rYNshc 1 scoop per 10 Gal of water.
This will fix it in 2-4 days. No need to do anything else. Just remove the skimmer collector, make sure there is plenty of oxygen in the water (more water surface should be agitated)
something like this? apologize for the amount of replies, just don't wanna ruin it after it's done seasoning. doesn't help that we're having some hot days and my humidor is saying it's 90 degrees right now. guessing that's also an indicator of a leak. its not in a window or anything, but we are having some really hot days right now.
to answer your second question https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-100165003-Silicone-3-oz/dp/B0002ASD2K
I've made acrylic shelves in glass fish tanks before.
Make sure you're using the right type of silicone. Something like Aqueon. Regular silicone caulk won't cut it.
Aqueon Silicone Aquarium Sealant (10.3 oz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ASD34/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tWgoDbPE8BVVB
Also, be VERY careful about wedging the shelf in. Even a little outward pressure combined with some vibration and you can end up with a cracked tank.
(http://www.amazon.com/All-Glass-Aquarium-AAG65010-10-3-Ounce/dp/B0002ASD34/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414029777&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=aquarium+sealant)
That's exactly what I got and it worked great. Just let a little bit harden on the tip and I can use it again.
Looks like I can get this 48x96 sheet of 1/2 inch PVC board to make an enclosure with max dimensions of 24d x 48w x 24h though 24 inches high might be a little bit excessive. I was going to seal the edges with aquarium grade [silicone sealant]
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002ASD34/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495836754&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=aquarium+safe+silicone) . And then cut grooves in the top and bottom for sliding door glass.
I agree with cyano. It can be a real bitch to get rid of. The only surefire solution I've found is this stuff. Yeah, that's not the red cyano, but it doesn't matter, that stuff will kill it. Just do exactly what the directions say for dosing, don't over do it. You'll also want to do a hefty water change once treatment is done, that dead cyano can foul up your water something awful.
I just got over a cyano outbreak. LFS recommended Ultralife Red Slime Stain Remover. Worked wonders, and I saw results within days.
http://www.amazon.com/Ultralife-Products-Slime-Stain-Remover/dp/B0002DKB6S
Hm. Maybe, I would start by using Stressguard and doing daily water changes, hopefully that will fix the fin and open wound looking thing problem. Stressguard is an antiseptic, it can help prevent infection and heal wounds. It can also relieve some stress in fish. The daily water changes are to keep ammonia levels down, which I am gonna guess you have some just because of the whole filter switch and monthly water change thing - and its okay! Easy fix on that - fish-in cycling.
Basically the fish-in cycling process consists of 50% water changes daily using Seachem Prime (preferably). Do this until your tank is cycled! Which the best way to check would be with the API master test kit, I already explained why in the other post :P
When the tank is cycled, you’ll test and find 0 parts per million (ppm) ammonia, 0ppm nitrite, and ‘x’ amount ppm of nitrate. (Dont focus too hard on what parts per million means, its just how this stuff is measured. Nitrates should be kept under 20ppm, they arent as toxic as ammonia or nitrites but can be in large amounts.)
After your tank is cycled, you’ll need to do weekly water changes of 15-25% using a gravel vacuum preferably. Gravel vacuum/siphons allow you to get the dirt out of the gravel easily without needing to take it out. Highly recommend getting one of these! Its a necessity!
And as I already mentioned: Avoid large water changes, it could offset the balance of your tank. Never rinse the filter media in tap water, that can kill the beneficial bacteria too. And then to clean the filter, which I already said that too but ya know, just swish/squeeze out in old tank water - this preserves it better!
Im gonna include links to nitrogen cycle info so you can really familiarize yourself with it! And a link to how to fish-in cycle :) Also to the API master kit and Seachem Prime. Prime is a dechlorinater that also detoxes ammonia and nitrite for 24 hours. You can use this to dechlorinate new water, then dose the rest of the tank to make it safe for your boy after daily water changes!
Information:
Nitrogen Cycle: https://fishlab.com/nitrogen-cycle/
Fish-In Cycling: https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/fishincycle?utm_source=share&amp;utm_medium=ios_app
My diagram/explanation on the cycle:https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/comments/c8evu4/nitrogen_cycle_art_by_me/?utm_source=share&amp;utm_medium=ios_app
Supplies:
API Freshwater Master Test Kit 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cEpvDb8R85Q1K
Seachem Prime Fresh and Saltwater Conditioner - Chemical Remover and Detoxifier 100 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255PFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_u-kKDbTMV2W8K
Seachem StressGuard Slime Coat Protection - Stress and Toxic Ammonia Reducer 500 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F0KX06/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vtVXDb4X69VQK
oh boy, that's a lot of info...
Okay, I just turned the heater down a few degrees, so that's no biggie.
ATM I'm just feeding him regular betta pellets. I tried to get him to eat some blood worms, but he's having none of it (even though I made them into bite-sized pieces)
Okay, so do I need to soak betta pellets in Vitachem or Garlic Guard? Or..? I can buy either Northfin Pellets or Fluval Bug Bites, and 5-6 total is about how many he gets a day. Do I need to soak those in the Vitachem or Garlic Guard? Why should a fish fast? He normally doesn't get fed over the weekend as he's my office fish, so he goes two days without food. Is that bad?
https://www.omegasea.net/products/nutrition/frozen-bloodworms Okay, so like this one? And you're soaking it in the water to just have it melt, right?
So if I'm understanding correctly, in the AM, it's pellets soaked in Vitachem/Garlic Guard (one, not both, just not sure which one is better/I want atm so including both) and in the PM it's a small slice of the frozen food that's been defrosted. Now, all of this is just for nutrients, right? This is all related to healthy fin growth, but not specifically to treating Fin rot, right?
https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116052306-StressGuard-500ml/dp/B001F0KX06 Okay, so this is the WCS, right? I've seen those Almond Leaves but was nervous about trying them without a recommendation. I might go with the Rooibos tea, as that seems slightly easier to monitor/manage? And this specifically is for treating fin rot, right?
Yup, I ordered it. Gosh dang, it all. I wish so much that my co-workers had kept him in a larger tank. Then again, this might have happened regardless of his tank size. Thanks a lot for the detailed response! =) And for answering all of my questions. I'm pretty much a fish novice, but I'm just trying to do right by the little guy.
Holdfast is probably a better choice.
I guess that's a common term. Here's what I meant.
Lookin good . my only concern is the smooth rocks on the left side falling. im sure they are more stable than it looks (pics never do justice) but for peace of mind id putty them in place for a semi permanent hold. Also a black backdrop would be nice imo :P other than that the tank looks great. i would love to see a large group of demasoni in it but thats just me :P cheers
I use this: https://www.amazon.com/Instant-Ocean-HoldFast-Aquarium-HF-1/dp/B001JSXBYO
Works as expected for me.
The fish will have to stay in the 10g tank until its safe to put them back into the larger tank. The filter has not been cycled. I understand that its not optimal but it is not safe for them to be in the 55g at this time. Its a choice between the lesser of two evils.
Would something like : http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-77961-SafeStart-3-38-Ounce-gallons/dp/B002DZG1BW
Assist in making the 10g tank livable until the 55g gets its act together?
So far with the 55g tank this has been its life.
Potting Mix covered with blasting sand (rinsed). Heavily planted on day 1 and added more on day 2 and 3. ~60% coverage.
Waited ~14 days and added 7 cherry barbs.
Monitoring the values in the tank and found a small increase in nitrate and nitrites but okay values until this morning.
I have not dosed with any chemicals other than water conditioner during daily ~5-10% water changes.
https://www.amazon.com/Instant-Ocean-BIO-Spira-Treatment-Aquariums/dp/B003ODDS5E
Seems there are two items called bio spira
So I'm thinking a complete start over would probably be the best, there's just so much algae, and crud in the tank that I think I'd never get it all. O_o. So here's what I'm thinking, does it seem like a good plan of action?
I haven't done anything to the water that was in the tank, and since freaking the fish out would be bad, I was thinking that I could get a 5 gallon bucket andpull out enough of the old water to put my clownfish in, then add an air stone and a heater.
Then I'd head over to the fish store and buy 100 gallons of water (they have the gear to make saltwater, I don't) and pull everything out of the tank. As suggested in another post, I figure I'll dip the reef rock in
muriatic acidbleach to clean them, and then put them in some saltwater with no light for a month or so. I will also buy a couple of new pieces of live rock to help seed the clean dry rock.Then I'd scrub the tank clean, using a scrub brush, and some clean (not tap) water, clean up the filter (and change the filter inserts), scrub the skimmer and heater and current makers, then add the new water, some substrate, and the stuff that you linked to.
Then after the month, pull my reef rocks out of the dark bucket, and reintroduce them to the aquarium. I figure by then my ecosystem would be pretty prime to reintroduce the rock.
Does this seem like a good plan? Any things you'd change about it? I really wanna get this right. My clownfish needs his home cleaned up. Plus I really want a beautiful reef tank.
EDIT Decided against using acid to kill the rocks, but will use bleach. I've read that a 10:1 ratio is good for a few days, will probably soak in bleach water for 3 days, then pull rock out, refresh the bleach water, then soak again for 3 days, then let bake in the heat of the sun for a week to dry it out, then put it in salt water with Bio-Spira to get it back to living rock.
I had great results using and piece of shrimp and https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ODDS5E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 to cycle my tank when I started it back up.
a) set up interrupted photo period 4 hours on/4 hours off/4 hours on
b) algaefix
sorry about that, Here is the tank and here is the regulator I have. Thanks in advance
If you are going to be using a pressurized CO2 system (i.e. paintball tank, not yeast), you do need an adapter like the one you posted. It adapts the smaller diameter paintball threads to the US standard CGA320 you'll find on a regulator.
If you want, the same company that makes the adapter you linked also makes a regulator/needle valve/solenoid/bubble counter already put together. Here.
After that system, yes you would need a diffuser (or alternatively, introduce the CO2 into a canister filter or a CO2 reactor). Otherwise, you'd be good to go. You might want a drop checker as well to determine CO2 use.
I'll be buying this next month ~$80 for what your looking for not bad.. plus it's NEW
http://www.amazon.com/Basic-AQUATEK-Regulator-TOUCH-SOLENOID/dp/B0041YLM7G
i was thinking of buying the atomic+ diffuser 75mm, a bubble counter and one of their tubings just in case. i even saw a review on youtube where he sets up one of GLAs diffusers with the same regulator (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0041YLM7G/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)
they emailed me back saying: (I would say no. The reason is because the regulator lacks flexibility in pressure. For one, all pressure gauges on the planet will have an accuracy of 1-3psi. So your could be greater or less. Some regulators have even higher inaccuracies.
It's a gamble to say yes it would work. I've seen countless times where it has not and a few where they do work. )
[Here it is] (http://www.amazon.com/API-579E-CO2-Booster-16-Ounce/dp/B004GY9ZYI)
It gave my plants a huge boost in the first week or so but since then I haven't seen huge changes so I might up the dosage to 2 ml.
That is exactly what I have.
And I have this, but I haven't used it in a while:
http://www.amazon.com/API-579E-CO2-Booster-16-Ounce/dp/B004GY9ZYI Will they work together?
That's expected of an uncycled tank and that's great that you were able to change it in time. And I agree on the waiting for the tank to be cycled before purchasing a new filter. Is the current one an overhang filter or an underwater one? I prefer the overhang ones since they generate more water flow (and thus more oxygen) for the tank. I really like the Aquaclear ones, easy to clean and fairly durable. I have the 70gal one on my 20 gal and it does a pretty good job. I've had the 110gal on the 20 gal tank but the current was too strong even at the lowest setting.
As for adding more tetras, it would be a good idea to wait until everything has stabilized. Tetras are small fish with a low bioload and would benefit very much in a large group. Even at least 7 or 8 in your tank would be a good start. I would not worry about overpopulation as I've seen people with 20 gal tanks with 30-40 tetras in it! It looks amazing to see these brightly coloured fish swim back and forth as a group as well :)
Hopefully your tank would be cycled by then! They also sell bottles of "beneficial bacteria" in the petshop to help start your cycle. I used one from API which I cannot find online anymore (they might have discontinued it) but they have this one now which is probably the "new and improved" version. Of course, nothing beats a water change but this will help stabilize the water a bit as the tank cycles. The water may get very cloudy after a while but it just means a bacterial bloom has occurred and it should clear up on its own. You can also purchase some hornwort (fairly cheap plants) to help with the high ammonia/nitrite problem. They are very fast growers and small fish love to hide in them.
15 years? An elder from the golden years of fishkeeping... yowzers!
If it's a plain water pump, simply wrap a thick (untreated) sponge around the intake and hold it in place with 1 or 2 rubberbands. kitchen-type sponge or generic sponge from walmart works great
Try API quick-start. A highly-improved bacteria culture. This skips the entire cycling period and makes your tank fish-ready in a matter of a couple hours.
https://www.amazon.com/API-Freshwater-Saltwater-Aquarium-Nitrifying/dp/B006YG12F6
Good! They'll definitely need filters though, and that may be part of the problem. As for what kind to get, I'd recommend looking into sponge filters.
They're super easy to clean, cheap, and very reliable. They also hold a lot of good beneficial bacteria for your tank, which is great for your fishs health.
All you need for one is the sponge filter itself, some airline tubing, and an air pump. The sponge filter can usually be bought at local fish stores, or online, and the rest can be bought even at bug retailers like walmart or meijer. I'll link some amazon listings for visual reference, and find the best price I can too.
https://www.amazon.com/SLSON-Aquarium-Biochemical-Filtering-Gallons/dp/B07PF7T1QZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_25?keywords=sponge+filter&amp;qid=1572619104&amp;sprefix=sponge+&amp;sr=8-25
https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Aquariums-Flexible-Standard/dp/B0002563MW/ref=mp_s_a_1_26?keywords=air+pump+aquarium&amp;qid=1572619157&amp;sprefix=air+pump&amp;sr=8-26
https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Easy-Aquariums-Non-UL/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=air+pump+aquarium&amp;qid=1572619198&amp;sprefix=air+pump&amp;sr=8-4
To clean them, which you'll only need to do like maybe once or twice every few months, just fill up a clean bucket with your tank water while doing a water change, put sponge filter in the bucket, squeeze it out, put back in tank, done. No need to buy more cartridges either.
As for decor, I don't know what you've got, but if its artificial, plastic plants and hard decor with sharp points can also tear and rip your bettas fins. If you do artificial, I'd recommend soft silk or silicone plants. If I'm being honest though, I always recommend live plants over fake, but I know that's not much of a possibility for everyone.
If you do want to try live plants, some good beginner ones are anubias nana, anubias frazeri, and java fern. All of these plants do not get buried, and if they do, they will rot. They can be tied to surfaces, or can have a small rock tied to the bottom to make them sink, but they will root themselves.
Java moss is great for bettas, they'll love to sleep in it. Water lettuce is a really pretty floating plant too.
Lastly, I'd HIGHLY recommend doing some research on the nitrogen cycle. Since you're setting up brand new tanks and moving the bettas once they're set up, you'll be doing a fish in cycle. This process is crucial for fish keeping, and good knowledge to keep your animals happy, healthy, and safe. I'll try to give a quick run down for it though.
The nitrogen cycle is the process where your tanks build up beneficial bacteria that break down waste from your fish and fishs food into ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. The bacteria are needed to maintain a healthy tank and grow on surfaces such as gravel, decor, plants, heater, filter, tank glass, but they are not in the water itself. And a filter is necessary to keep beneficial bacteria because it circulates water, provides aeration, and has a ton of surface area for them to grow in.
Ammonia and nitrites are harmful and deadly to your fish. Nitrates are less deadly, and are what you're aiming to get to in the cycling process, but you still don't want a bug buildup of them either. The absolute most important thing for cycling your new betta tanks for the next few weeks is to be on top of your water change game to keep your bettas safe.
For the first 2 weeks, you will want to do 40-50% water changes every other day. After that, for another 2 weeks, water changes every 3 days at 40-50%. The next 2 weeks, water changes every 3-4 days at 30-40%. After the initial month and two weeks of water changes, you can move onto water changes once or twice a week at 30-40%. It sounds like a lot, but it will keep your fish safe from ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate spikes during the cycling process.
Some good things to keep on hand to help during cycling is some Seachem Prime, or Seachem Neutral Regulator. These are all in one water conditioners that remove chlorine, chloramine, heavy metals, AND detoxifies ammonia and nitrites for 48 hours (not a replacement for water changes though. Those are still very much necessary)
https://www.amazon.com/Safe-250-g-8-8-oz/dp/B0002A5WOC/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=seachem+prime&amp;qid=1572620732&amp;sprefix=seachem+&amp;sr=8-6
https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116030601-Neutral-Regulator-250gram/dp/B000255P9E/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=seachem+neutral+regulator&amp;qid=1572620778&amp;sprefix=seachem+neu&amp;sr=8-1#immersive-view_1572620800767
And a great way to kick start your bacteria bloom and speed up cycling is with some live nitrifying bacteria. I use topfin, and a big bottle is about $10. But api is great too.
https://www.amazon.com/API-Nitrifying-Aquarium-Maintains-Biological/dp/B006YG12F6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=top+fin+live+bacteria&amp;qid=1572620840&amp;sr=8-2
And, if you need more information on the cycling process, feel free to reach out, or look up "nitrogen cycle" in google, or check out a very helpful video by KGTropicals called "everything you need to know about the nitrogen cycle."
https://youtu.be/es7spyo5RJ4
Apologies for long post, but I hope this helps you and your little dudes! ☺️
I’m using dr Tim’s ammonium chloride for my tank, I tried the same method of dropping pellets in but then it started molding really bad where it looked like I just had cotton balls in there. I recommend investing in the bottle of ammonia. Beware the ammonia sold as a cleaner in some stores as some of it contains antiseptic. I.e. if you shake it and it bubbles up it’s no good.
[What about this?] (http://www.amazon.de/Wassersport--ammonium-Chlorid-Aquarium-Behandlung-4%C2%A0Unze/dp/B00WSNYRDS/ref=sr_1_3?s=books-intl-de&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458509230&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=dr+tims+aquarium) I used Dr Tim's for my tank because I didn't know I could get it at the hardware store :P
I think that Seachem Kanaplex would be more helpful for the fin rot. It cured my fish in two treatments. Hope this helps!
Kanaplex, 5 g(0.18 oz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CJ0VY8G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_S.T4DbDHY4RV1
Seachem kanaplex
The photo clearly shows damaged gills and dormant behavior. Flukes infestation combined with ammonia typically leads to that. It appears as if a fungal infection is kicking in. (Flukes slowly kill and cause tons of fungal infections in the process)
OP, your best bet is going with Hikari's PraziPro or Seachem's Paraguard, stress coat, and serving soft fruits / vegetables to boost the immune system. Then dose Seachem's Kanaplex separately to deal with the fungus.
https://www.amazon.com/Hikari-Usa-AHK73254-Prazipro-Aquarium/dp/B004LOBGYA
https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116060608-ParaGuard-250ml/dp/B0002A5X7I
https://www.amazon.com/Kanaplex-5-g-0-18-oz/dp/B00CJ0VY8G/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?
BTW, can you show off photos of the entire body for better judgement? If it's ICH, Hikari's Ich-X alone would beat the daylights out of the ICH and fungus at the same time.
https://www.amazon.com/Hikari-USA-Inc-Ich-Treatment/dp/B00176I3UA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?
But be careful, while it's highly effective, Ich-X contains some cancerous stuff to human health. I recommend to go with Seachem's Paraguard for ICH, but it will take longer. You can combine Paraguard with Kanaplex to deal with bacterial infection if that's the case, but make sure to pump oxygen in the take since meds reduce it.
https://www.seachem.com/support/forums/forum/freshwater-community/1042-can-kanaplex-be-used-with-paraguard
I am new to this, but I asked the same question to my bestfriend which she’s obsessed with Bettas and she told me to buy Kanaplex it worked really well and it only took two or three weeks for him to recover. Again I am new to this and I don’t know a lot about Bettas but i’m slowly learning. Good Luck.
Kanaplex, 5 g(0.18 oz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CJ0VY8G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iUamDbA3C7TP6[Kanaplex ](https://www.google.com/search?q=kanaplex&amp;client=safari&amp;hl=en-us&amp;prmd=sivn&amp;source=lnms&amp;tbm=isch&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=2ahUKEwid6rvX5b3jAhXHKM0KHQ_jB2sQ_AUoAnoECAwQAg&amp;biw=414&amp;bih=719)
Seachem Purigen will clean that right up.
Try using silicone aquarium sealant. Personally I haven't tried it and don't know practically how it would hold up. But, from my research it's non-toxic, take that as you will. You can do that or send it into a shop, find an ash catch/a bowl that fits, or take the hit and get a new piece. This could also be a chance to perfect dope rolling skills. Just avoid anything that will produce fumes from being in contact with heat.
You can do a fish in cycle if you can get ahold of some established media from a friend or the local fish store, and add a bottle of this. https://www.amazon.com/API-Freshwater-Saltwater-Aquarium-Nitrifying/dp/B006YG12F6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541607669&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=beneficial+bacteria+aquarium
I did an instant cycle on my more recent tank (120 gallon) by using media from my other tanks (and some hardscape from them) along with a bottle of api quickstart. I was able to move in 8 male cichlids as soon as I had water in it, and the sump seeded. There's no point in doing a long cycle.