(Part 2) Best automotive fuel pumps & accessories according to redditors

Me and a friend spent quite a bit of time looking for off the shelf parts to use in a form 1 can and stumbled upon something quite remarkable. A 3/4 oz. jigger is an almost perfect fit in a NAPA 4003 fuel filter. Simply split it from the other end of the jigger, mount it in the chuck and bore a hole in the center. Then turn down a tube of 1.5" ID aluminum to fit inside and cut into sections for spacers. We have completed them and they have held up to 5.56 NATO and full power 300 Blackout without any problems. Oh, they work quite well too! Very quiet with subsonic 300 Blackout. I hope to make a DIY thread soon. This will have to do until I get some of the lathe pics.

Edit: Get can here

Get jiggers here

Split jiggers

Here's the jiggers after being separated.

Front and back of baffle and spacer.

Detail showing machining inside spacer to allow baffle to seat properly.

Two baffle stacks stacked.

First coat of paint! Here you can see we faced the end cap and knurled it. I also drilled two holes in the front of the cap so I could use a spanner wrench in case it gets stuck.

On one of the hosts. 300 Blackout pistol.

Tear down after a day at the range. Here you can see we milled the blast baffle to reduce weight. I hope to mill the spacers to further reduce weight. It is especially dirty because I used wire pulling gel on some subsonic ammo to see just how quiet it could get. Very impressive performance for the money spent.

Not sure where you're shopping, but I found a fuel pump for your car that costs 33 bucks and 33 cents, shipped and handled for free.

CT sells a red siphon pump that could replace those cans of air, and save you money in the long run. It comes with an attachment to blow air, and it uses arm power. It's called a "Deluxe Pump", I'd post the link, but it's down. Here is the link to the version that Amazon sells: https://www.amazon.ca/OEMTOOLS-25713-Fluid-Transfer-Liquids/dp/B00825PX3E . AFAIK Lordco also stocks these pumps.

Just having the right tire for the right situation is key. The stock tires they come with have to kind of work in every situation, jack of all trades master of none. Like, I live in an area where rocks and rocky river crossings or sand dunes aren't a thing. Its mostly just hardpack, and thick mud, so why not get a tire that was made specifically for that? With tires theres a trade off for every thing you do. Finding whats right for you makes an enormous difference over the stock tires. Biggest performance gain per dollar I'd say by far.

Also, ground clearance on the 450 theres only a couple ways you can get more of it and thats one of the easiest. You'd gain 2" over the stock 24"s going to a 28".


So then why a clutch kit? Well going to aftermarket tires effects the gear ratio and they're heavier so it robs a little low end power. So a clutch kit changes the springs and stuff to correct it (sort of) and make it grab the belt harder and get your acceleration back (if not more). The trade off being that the clutch engagement is slightly higher and more harsh. EIP or QSC are great.


To fix the factory cvt intake you'll have to fab something up on your own or get a snorkel kit (not recommended). Really just need something like this to keep air coming in but water out (mostly). Sometimes in rare cases the cvt box itself leaks from behind where it bolts up to the crank shaft. You have to pull the primary and secondary off to fix it and its a real mess.

I ordered mine from ACDelco.. On Amazon about a week ago ACDelco MU1733 GM Original Equipment Fuel Pump and Level Sensor Module with Seal, Float, and Harness https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001S2TPVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_F.mPDbCJYV6C2

Consumable like how you replace fuel filters every xxx hours.

WIX Filters - 24744 Heavy Duty Fuel (Complete In-Line) Filter, Pack of 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q8HF2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mHBBCbB4Q1AHJ

This might be you only option, lol.

I second trying a glass measuring cup. I have a plastic one and a glass one, the plastic one will do this shit to me every time.

The fuel pump is part # M60107. It's $22 on rock auto https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/carter,M60107,fuel+pump,6256

or summit https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-m60107

or amazon https://www.amazon.com/Carter-M60107-Mechanical-Fuel-Pump/dp/B000C02DQC



The electric route is pretty easy. https://imgur.com/a/4ykaKtZ (forgive the shoddy wiring) This is mounted by the right rear control arm.

The mikuni triple? Does this work?

Fox Distributing DF52-92 Mikuni Triple Fuel Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00336EBGW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FQumDbQM1VYC4

MPFI is actually a good setup, even though people give it a lot of shit lol

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Delphi-FE0114-Electric-Fuel-Pump-/302076948073

(YES, this is a REAL Delphi pump. I actually bought this for my v8 swap lol, and rock auto lists it for your truck as well)

https://www.amazon.com/Delphi-FS0177-Fuel-Strainer/dp/B002VE972U

You'll need both.

Squirt the filler neck hose with penetrating oil/wd40 now, and let it soak in for a day - that's honestly the hardest part is getting that fucker off. Once it's off, you can use a fluid transfer pump to drain the tank into another vehicle if you'd rather work on an empty tank.

If not, the just jack that shit off, take off the straps , and lower it on to 4 jackstands, remove the fuel lines and electrical connectors, then lower it the rest of the way.

I extended my hoses and wires so that I can drop the tank all the way to the ground without issue, might be something you want to consider as well (aside from the filler neck of course lol)

https://www.amazon.com/Delphi-FE0115-Electric-Fuel-Motor/dp/B000CGFUHK/

vs

https://www.amazon.com/Delphi-HP10041-Hanger-Assembly-Sending/dp/B001FIR7Y8/

This is the one I used to replace my "primary" one.

Let me inventory my stuff. I know I have two FD-4606 filters...but I don't even know what those are for. I think they're for the 6.2l?

I'm going through my stuff, i'm running the part numbers to see what I have

EDIT: I have these, which I believe is what you are referring to? If it is, PM me.

http://www.amazon.com/Wix-33518-Fuel-Filter-Pack/dp/compatibility-chart/B000C9TBEA

Does that need to be done prior to removing the old compressor? Are you saying if I disconnect the compressor the old system will automatically be vented?

How cheap are we talking? This is the cheapest I can find on Amazon for my model.

For my 2003 I used this pump and strainer

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C1ILZI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C1LVYQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looks similar to the one /u/ohnotherobots used but at the time when I bought it in 2015, it was $21. Not sure why the price has doubled.

In terms of the act of replacing it. Its tough but not impossible. The hardest part is getting the actual pump out of the frame once you've undone the bolts. I fashioned my own pump puller out of bolts and L brackets I had laying around that worked well enough. Someone with welding abilities would be able to make a puller in 2 min worth of work

edit Also, the fuel filter is #FF3330DL from Autozone

The fuel pump/sender assembly?

https://www.amazon.ca/Spectra-Premium-SP333H-Assembly-Sending/dp/B000C7S5IA/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=ranger+fuel+pump&qid=1556108548&s=gateway&sr=8-7

Assuming 3/8" line, put this in a place where the line is not going to move or be tugged on much. WIX Filters - 33003 Fuel (Complete In-Line) Filter, Pack of 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CSEUPG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LsYKyb6QYQ9JQ

The filter is replaceable rather than cleanable. It unscrews from the fuel line and a new one is just bolted back in place. If you are in the rust belt it might be moderately difficult, but if things go well it's a 15 minute job that needs only simple hand tools (a few metric box end wrenches). This filter should fit, though you can grab one from the parts store if you want to do it asap. https://www.amazon.com/WIX-Filters-Complete-Line-Filter/dp/B000C9XZJC/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Toyota%7C76&Model=4Runner%7C1005&Year=1999%7C1999&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleId=14&vehicleType=automotive

Vacuum leaks can be tested with fancy equipment, but the majority can be found by simply listening for air sucking sounds and looking for cracks (intake boot and vacuum lines). If you want to get a bit more effective you can spray vacuum lines with starting fluid and see if it changes the engine idle, but that obviously only works if the truck is running. As bad as your symptoms are you would probably be looking for a huge tear in your intake boot or something else substantial.

Where are you located?