(Part 2) Best automotive greases according to redditors

> I have Prime, and even with prime there is a minimum order of $25[1] or they won't ship it out.

That's not how it works. Add-on items are not Prime-eligible, but when you add them to a $25 order with other Prime items, they'll ship as if they're Prime.

http://i.imgur.com/7ZyfTLn.png

Your grease is not Prime-Eligible

But this grease is Prime-Eligible

I was motivated by the recent thread with the X rated pics of the frame, so this weekend I spent quite a lot of time inspecting the bike everywhere with a flashlight for rust (owned less than 1 year). As someone who leaves a puddle on the floor after a workout, it only made sense that had to leave impact on steel. While Peloton suggests you to wipe down the bike after a ride, the places where most people would clean, such as the large smooth surface areas, may keep the bike looking good but are actually not problem areas. The problem is everywhere you miss--seat bolt and the threads on the frame, connectors, the gap to the shaft on the left pedal, the bolt and opening where the cover on the right meets the frame, underside of frame where the welds are, outer pedal threads, metal screws, etc. For the seat handle, not only were the threads in bad shape, but also I could see rust on the front and back of the handle where it meets the bolt. Basically, the more I looked for rust, the more I found. Left untreated for a few years, I think it would have evolved into bigger problems down the road.

I used Ospho on many of the painted parts and the bolts and let it sit for a day. Getting to some parts required something like a toothpick or a dental tool with the paper towel scrap to scrub. Ospho (HD equivalent here) makes rust inert and preps it for painting, then used a touch up brush and applied some black rustoleum paint to the painted areas. Then I used white lithium grease(spray) to protect all the moving parts and bolts, and even into the seat handle. To protect the underbelly of the frame where the welds are, I'm tempted to apply some stickier grease like Red and Tacky to completely seal those areas from sweat and air after now that the paint has dried, because it is not an area that can be easily and properly cleaned every time. Going forward I'll be looking it over much more frequently.

https://www.amazon.com/Red-I-Red-I-50042-C-Grease-50-14oz-tubes/dp/B00OV6D0D8

Was in the background during the spindle assembly when he slid the bellevue washer stack in.

What you want is something like this. If you're spending over $6 for a tub, you're probably being had.

What makes bicycle grease special is the bicycle-themed containers and large mark-up.

Here's what I've been using for the last few years:

http://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL78241-Timken-Premium-Bearing/dp/B006K8VIAM

And I still have like 80% left of that $5 container.

Do throughly clean out the old grease as much as possible and try to avoid mixing greases, they are not all compatible.

Well if you're searching for lubricant, including "lubricant" in the search terms tends to help. I'm not entirely sure but something like this should work.

Another lubricant recommendation is electronics-grade white lithium grease like this. It's not regarded quite as good for plunger tubes/o-rings but is considered better for various other parts that rub against eachother. Though the actual difference is pretty minimal.

Edit; /u/Duke_Wintermaul seems to have a better silicone grease recommendation.

It's rebranded Aeroshell 33ms (now called Aeroshell 64).

You can buy a full tube on Amazon for ~$30, and other places for even cheaper. Many folks buy the grease in the larger 14oz tube then repackage it into small 1oz vials and sell them for $10 each.

This should work:

AEROSHELL 33MS Moly Synthetic MIL-SPEC Barrel Nut Thread Grease, 2 oz Jar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M5J6J0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qbr9ybMT08E0A

I have the same brand, don't recall if I got it on Amazon or eBay. That little jar will be inexhaustible for a home builder.

There's got to be some sort of alchohol based non-conductive gel we can mount the components in.


This perhaps? https://www.amazon.ca/Tekonsha-7200-Non-Conductive-Dielectric-Grease/dp/B00CD6LMWO

I have been trying hi-temp wheel bearing grease for six months and have been very happy so far. For $5-10 you can get a 16 oz tub that will outlast your rifle. I like it because it does not evaporate like aerosolized lubricants after months in storage and it does not burn off like most firearm oils.

There is some debate in the forums about whether greases containing graphite could potentially accelerate corrosion within the receiver but you can easily find synthetic greases without it. I am using the Mag 1 grease and have not noticed any corrosion so far, and it does contain graphite.

https://www.amazon.com/Mag-720-High-Temp-Bearing-Grease/dp/B0077K8WJC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473301961&sr=8-1&keywords=wheel+bearing+grease

https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL78241-Timken-Premium-Bearing/dp/B006K8VIAM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1473301961&sr=8-4&keywords=wheel+bearing+grease

i'd go with this

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81981-Lithium-Grease-Aerosol/dp/B000HBGJG6

120 lb keg

35 lb keg/bucket

400 lb keg/drum

Sorry, I misstated the size of the 5 gallon pail. But just look. OP's picture is much closer to the 120 pound keg

I'm in the same boat - mine arrives today from CMP - so I've been doing the same as you.

I got this book from Amazon, and it's proven to be a good resource for me while I've been waiting for my rifle.

One thing you'll need for sure is grease to lubricate all the rotating parts. After doing a bit of research, I arrived at this grease off Amazon.

You'll of course need ammo and enbloc clips. CMP is also the best/cheapest source of both of those, so add that to your order for the bayonet.

Finally this website is another good resource.

Enjoy your rifle!!

Replace the boots. They're $6 for both calipers.

For lube, I'm trying this stuff. Some of the lube/grease have bad reactions with the rubber seals. I had mine swell up and that's why I replaced the boots.

https://www.amazon.com/AGS-BK4-Brake-Lubricant-4Oz/dp/B000CIHTPE

Very easy to do a rotor and pad job yourself. Does require a couple of tools though. Even with the tools you'll be saving a bunch of money.

Changed the front brakes on my sister's civic for less than $150 dollars for the parts.

Besides sockets and a ratchet, you'll want to either get a C-clamp or a a brake caliper tool: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24400-Disc-Brake-Spreader/dp/B0002SQU9K

Also some brake lubricant: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24129-Silicone-Extreme-Lubricant/dp/B01L1LV9F6/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496554333&sr=1-11&keywords=brake+lube

And sometimes its tough to take the rotor screws off, for that you will need an impact driver: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002O16UPM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Since your car is pretty new, you might not need the impact driver unless your rotors are rusty.

I used this rotor + pad set for the car : https://www.amazon.com/Power-Stop-K1043-Evolution-Drilled/dp/B005FKMOWM

I've put powerstop rotors and pads on 4 cars now and they have worked quiet well. Some people were saying that the drilled rotors are prone to cracks, but that won't happen for a daily drive car on the street. Other rotor and pad options:

https://www.amazon.com/Wagner-BD125669E-Premium-Coated-Brake/dp/B00HJJDSZO

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-17D914C-Professional-Ceramic-Front/dp/B000IYY7PW

Rears will be different than the ones I posted, so check and see what will fit. Amazon makes it pretty easy, just enter your car and it'll tell you what fits.

Since you have watched videos on the change, I don't think you need me to tell you how to do it.

Amazon for bulk oil
https://www.amazon.com/Sinopec-G-MPRED2-SK-Multipurpose-Lithium-Grease/dp/B01FQ0A4IG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465582366&sr=8-2&keywords=red+grease+120

Sil-Glyde is what you're looking for. It's preferable because petroleum based lubricants can break down rubber over time.

yea, it comes in nearly the exact same can as the solvent WD-40

https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Protective-Lithium-Grease-STRAW-SPRAYS/dp/B00L4QZ1VC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=white+lithium&qid=1574174389&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyOE1SQlNZVEVIRjJYJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjU5MDQ0MVBaS0ZZUFQ1VUFRUyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzI4OTEyMUpFNFJUVUswS1hBWiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

> Mobil-1 XHP222

This shit? https://www.amazon.com/MOBIL-GREASE-XHP-222-SPECIAL/dp/B00IRI3R1G

Valvoline Lithium grease

Amazon sells it for $9/lb

https://www.amazon.ca/Valvoline-General-Multi-Purpose-Grease-454g/dp/B000CQ264A/

Watch some videos: Brian at Echo1 made a bunch of videos years ago on repairing and upgrading guns. My channel I haven't updated much over the past year but I do show how to take stuff apart.

Consider getting a cheap second gun to learn on.

Start small, something like swapping the inner barrel or hop rubber. Easy upgrades and fixes increase your confidence to attempt harder ones.

Tools:

Well lit area with a work mat or white bath towel. Don't try to fix your gun on your bedroom floor.

Regular philips and flat screwdrivers.

Precision screwdriver set like this cheap one or A far nicer one.

A set of metric allen keys

Hammer

Pin punches

Parts tray

Silicone plumbers grease or SuperLube Silicone grease. You can use this on everything. Lithium Moly is a better lubricant for metal parts though.


I'm sure I forgot something.

Edit: WTF formatting

I've typically used 3in1 blue (not the typical Red and white bottle) where light weight is required, or for motor lubrication. For metal on metal contact, such as rails where something more grease like is needed, I use Deoxit L260np.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AHCIWHO

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00065VGUC

The L260np is the type of stuff they use for things like CD tray rack and pinion rails, etc.

DO NOT use 3in1 Red. That is a wholly different beast than the Blue I've linked.

I started using Archoil last year and I'm really digging it.

With Park and Phil Wood grease i would need to pull the crank out of a BB30 every ~1000 miles to grease the spindle because it would start creaking. I'm getting 3,000+ with Archoil.

You should apply some Lithium Grease to lubricate the tray mechanism. Also, the mechanism may be filled with gunk from the old grease mixed with dirt.

The difficulty reading PS2 games may be caused by a dirty lens. You should clean it with a cotton swab and isopropyl alcohol.

As for the audio problem, it appears to be a problem with the switcher and not with the PS2.

The CMS is the higher end version of Mevotech. I would rate it slightly higher than the Moog R series.

Get that one but make sure to use a good Moly grease to lube it up. It has a grease fitting so grease it up with good moly grease before installing.

Like this...
https://smile.amazon.com/Sta-Lube-SL3330-Moly-Graph-Pressure-Multi-Purpose/dp/B000KKJQL4

Hahaha, I'm actually using an H100i with some shitty subpar thermal paste. I went online, did some researching and purchased this paste after many tests proving it to be the most potent in terms of cooling.

I'm expecting my temperatures to drop a solid 5-10C. I idle around approximately 32C, more than likely will be at 28 or below with the new paste.

The reason I'm expecting such a significant decrease is because I'm also adding 3 new fans to increase air-flow.

• 200MM NZXT Fan
  
• Two 140MM NZXT Fan
  
  Can't wait. :)

Thank you!!

https://www.amazon.com/Tuniq-TX-4-Conducting-Thermal-Compound/dp/B00405DHG0