(Part 2) Best automotive lithium greases according to redditors
We found 182 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive lithium greases. We ranked the 36 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
Maintenance is super cheap. My weekly maintence, done the night before I play, is greasing the rails (I use white lithium grease) and a drop of silicone oil in the bbu (Murder Oil for me), then just running an unjamming rod and cloth through the barrel to clean it. Takes like 5 minutes. Every now and again I lube the mags which requires a valve key to unscrew the valves and get to the o-rings.
In the 8 months I've had my hi-capa using exclusively propane (Mostly coleman, recently got some Bernzomatic), that's just about all I've done. I've done a full slide disassembly and clean a couple times but never had to mess with the grip.
Remove the lever, grease the pivot pin like /u/JDSportster said, also lightly grease the lever surface the contacts the perch and put a blob of grease on the part of the lever that pushes the MC piston in.
I use this stuff on everything.
http://www.amazon.de/AMERICAN-GREASE-STICK-AGS-Dielectric/dp/B000K7YRFC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1452195419&sr=8-4&keywords=grease+silicone
Here's the secret to these that no one seems to know: they need to be lubricated with grease, preferably white lithium grease. No builder seems to bother so they end up working like crap and being too hard to open/close while destroying themselves.
CRC 03080 White Lithium Grease Spray, (Net Weight: 10 oz.) 16oz Aerosol https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013J3ZH2/
https://www.amazon.com/Lumax-LX-1901-Multi-Purpose-Lithium-Cartridge/dp/B0059HJZO6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487544895&sr=8-2&keywords=grease+cartridge
This is what all the custom drum shops use.
LOCTITE ViperLube Synthetic Grease
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045NK4YK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_.xYKwbB9KK0PC
The hood latches tend to seize up over time, especially if you don't lubricate them occasionally. Had the same problem on my Mk5 Jetta. If it's seized and not a broken cable, you can generally fix it pretty easily.
You need three things: a small screwdriver, a can of lightweight break-free lube like Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster penetrating oil, and a can of spray lithium lube.
Pop the safety latch and prop the hood. Locate the hood latch assembly. Using the precision tube on the spray lube, saturate the inside of the latch and latch plate with the penetrating oil (try to keep overspray from rubber parts). Let sit for 30 seconds or so, and then press on the open side of the latch with the screwdriver until the latch plate releases and locks. Pull the hood release in the cabin to reset. Repeat several times until the latch snaps closed freely when you press on it with the screwdriver. Respray with penetrator if necessary.
Use a shop towel to mop up as much penetrating oil as you can and spray the entire inside of the latch assembly with as much spray lithium as it will hold. Work the mechanism a few more times to get it into the pivot and latch plate as much as possible. Re-saturate with lithium grease and button up.
Every time you change your oil, you should relubricate the hood latch with spray lithium to keep this from happening.
EDIT: Linkies.
Here ya go, www.amazon.com/Ultra-10300-Multi-Purpose-Biobased-Lithium/dp/B002BW5GEU/
Not 100% since I don't have mine in front of me, but I'm pretty sure that should do it for ya.
You can use White lithium grease spray on your buffer spring, that miiiiight help some. Look at some pictures of carrier tilt on google. I believe you MIGHT be experiencing an extreme version of carrier tilt that is pretty common with super cheap components, basically, if it is what I assume it is, your carrier is chewing up your buffer tube.
I NEVER cheap out on a buffer tube, you can either get the cheapest one available for $20 or the best non-billet mil-spec buffer tube known to man for like $50... not a huge price gap between the best and worst but there is a huge gap in fit/finish.
Edit: if your lower is out of spec, it isn't a complete loss, you can turn it in to a dedicated .22 LR lower that doesn't use a buffer or some crazy shit like that!
You could fix your l3 sprint with this.
https://youtu.be/NUHlRl1yN70
CRC 02083 Di-Electric Grease Spray, (Net weight: 10 oz.) 16oz Aerosol https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013J62A4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZOmzybQX5AND3
Super easy to do. Did it about 6 months ago to my cinch, just started having the issue again about 2 weeks ago but was very minor, will be re spraying both sticks this weekend and It was completely fixed for those 6 months.
Dis kind
Have also used dis but doggo chewed the tube so no mo squeezy.
If you haven't the tools to get at the pawls, not to mention putting things back together... your local bike shop should be able to take care of it with some Lubriplate Mag-1 (expensive grease), ParkTool Grease (great stuff), Phil Wood Grease (amazing stuff) or perhaps some Boshield T-9 lube (light lube).
If you are going to get it from Amazon: Super Lube or Ford style molly grease
I used lithium grease as I'd heard it's generally preferable to petroleum-based grease on plastic parts. The actual stuff I used is the same as what I use on my bicycle.
120 lb keg
35 lb keg/bucket
400 lb keg/drum
Sorry, I misstated the size of the 5 gallon pail. But just look. OP's picture is much closer to the 120 pound keg
Multi-Purpose Open Gear Grease (Pack of 10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HZJG26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BfVMBbWWZPA13