Best automotive replacement hoses according to redditors

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000F5JM0O/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521255244&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=otc+hose+clamp+pliers

This is much better. My favorite tool.

I know exactly what it is because it’s happened to me and it happened to a classmate a few months back. Check the intake hose that connects to the throttle body. Mine had a huge gaping crack and my classmate’s was clean cut through. Replaced it with a 30 dollar part on amazon. Check minute 1 in this video. and here is the part you need. .

You can use a hose clamp like this to attach bottle cages wherever they fit. Use a couple of layers of cut pieces of inner tube to protect the frame and stop slippage. It's very cheap and works well, just make sure to check what size you need.

Or you could get a framebag and chuck a camelback bladder/bottle in it.

I wouldn't want to run a waterbottle on the back of the saddle, just seems like it would get annoying and possibly rattle out. I'd only carry anything on the forks if the front triangle of the bike was already occupied - you want as much of the weight as closer to possible to the centre of gravity.

There is a tool out there that grabs the tabs and can open up the clamp, handy as hell for the spring clamps and no chance of stabbing your hand.OTC 4525 Cable-Type Flexible Hose Clamp Pliers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F5JM0O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_u.iwybNKCBDGN

FYI, you're using the wrong type of hose clamps. What you want are "fuel injection hose clamps". They have no ridges which cut into the hoses, and greatly reduce the risk of damaging the lines which can cause leaks.

do yourself a favor and get a nice pair of flexible hose clamp pliers

Barring that, even just regular hose clamp pliers are miles ahead of using whatever random pliers are laying in your toolbox.

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4525-Cable-Type-Flexible-Pliers/dp/B000F5JM0O

That's an inexpensive one. I've got it for personal use and it's pretty solid.

Well its like $7.50. Exactly, it costs more cause you need the special key. Cant be undone with a flathead or socket. A little extra piece of mind if you will. Key Clamps

Fuel injection line clamps, my friend...

You are living in the pinball techs dream world! Off the route and into a nice office space for full tear down work. You live in the Pacific NW by any chance?

Do you have a tool that you use that wouldn't normally be seen as a pinball repair tool? I have found that a set of automotive hose removal pieces are incredibly useful in more ways than I could even describe. https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Hook-Pick-5-Piece-Set/dp/B071JVYFD2/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1543433191&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=hose+removal+tool&dpPl=1&dpID=41adxK8G6GL&ref=plSrch

Did mine when I bought it just for the hell of it. 1997 Lesabre 280,000 miles so I figured I better be safe than sorry.

LOWER http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm?singlepart=1&partnumber=89017816

UPPER http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm?singlepart=1&partnumber=89017554

Upgraded Manifold http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm?addtocart=1&addpartnumber=89017555&singlepart=1&partnumber=89017555

Elbows: http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-47065HP-Elbow-Type-Heater/dp/B00A1A6PT4/ref=pd_sim_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0YVJ8H2EN20A0HRXC2WB

Parts might be cheaper elsewhere, but gmpartsdirect hasn't let me down

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0066STLG4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I recently had to replace on my 2006 9-3

Under all that stupid plastic I bet it’s just a .250 spade connector. Do you have a picture of the male side?

Is this it? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Toyota-Horn-Connector-F-90980-10619-/183287670500

Or this? https://www.amazon.com/Automobile-connector-harness-terminal-DJ7018Y-6-3-21/dp/B071RL8L8P

I got them on amazon

3 O-Ring Gaskets for Ford F150... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JCSTFVY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

But I believe ford sells them too.

For gas last year I built a extended run system using a 14 gallon caddy. Took the hose off, put a brass fitting, fuel line and some fuel clamps. The you just need a fuel cap like this one which I like because it’s Made in the USA and includes a great magnetic dip stick and funnel. Lastly here is the quick disconnect fitting for the cap.

Fill it up and run all weekend long.

A new tailgate with all the internals (backup camera, latches, etc), the inner composite cover, and painted, is going to run you $1k+, it sucks.

A potential cheap fix once you DO replace it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VAXCWO/

you can slip that around the release hinge (passenger side), and keep the turnkey in your center console or something; it's not foolproof but it'll definitely slow down anyone trying to do a grab and run and that's often enough.

If he is like me, he has all the tools he really needs, but would love to have some of the luxury tools most of us do without. These are things that make the job easier, but we don't buy unless we have to.
A few ideas:
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6508-Full-Coverage-Master-Disconnect/dp/B000O1E54M/ref=pd_sim_auto_27?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ADKVBA248HB7TFMJ1HY

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-3569-Terminal-Circuit-Tester/dp/B000I16DFM/ref=pd_sim_auto_33?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ADKVBA248HB7TFMJ1HY

http://www.amazon.com/Products-95978-Master-Terminal-Tool/dp/B001BFQ3UY/ref=pd_sim_auto_42?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ADKVBA248HB7TFMJ1HY

http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-TP40-Automotive-Back-Probe/dp/B000VRJGT8/ref=pd_sim_auto_84?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ADKVBA248HB7TFMJ1HY

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4525-Cable-Type-Flexible-Pliers/dp/B000F5JM0O/ref=pd_sbs_auto_29?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ADKVBA248HB7TFMJ1HY

I think this will solve your problem!
https://www.amazon.com/quirky-Portable-Power-Switch-VSF-WH01/dp/B074CWBTPT

Something I always did on any carb engine.

I put an inline filter just before the carb and carried a couple with me. If I needed a replacement it could happen in a matter of minutes and I didn’t have to worry about trash in the carb.

filter example

Also please see for a aluminum one , Water Hose Fitting Replace 11537541992 11537544638 for BMW N54 N52 335i By TOPEMAI https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K17QRVR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GIAxCbG5X45F6

I replaced:

1. driver and passenger side valve cover gaskets
   
   
2. driver side valve cover (FINDAUTO Valve Cover 13264-EA210... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y1Q3C5Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share ) (because I broke my original one trying to replace spark plug hole seals)....I recommend replacing both valve covers because those center seals are probably cooked if you’re anywhere near 100k+ miles—and they’re non-serviceable on the frontier’s cheesy plastic valve covers.
   
   
3. all 1-6 spark plugs (check that your ignition coils are also good while you have them out.)
   
   
4. Air plenum and throttle body gaskets (you can get them both as a kit) Vincos Upper Intake/Plenum Gasket... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PKQBLM1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
5. Air filter: Bosch Workshop Air Filter 5486WS... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VC1Q0Q4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
6. Engine air cleaner intake duct (mine were cracked): Engine Air Cleaner Intake Duct... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K7V2ZX6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
7. Pcv Tube (I might be misnomering this part)— (breather tube between the two valve covers. Mine was completely dry rotted) Part No.: 11826-EA200 nissanpartsdeal.com
   
   
8. Two intake valve timing control gaskets (p/n 23797-ZA000 nissanpartsdeal.com)—mine were cashed and you have to take the air Plenum off to replace the passenger side one, so you might as well do it while your Plenum is off. You have to remove these valve control modules to remove the valve covers anyway, so replacing their gaskets is a no-brainer.
   
   •••••••••
   
   
9. My next project is to replace my oil cooler gasket:
   
   MAHLE Original B32573 Engine Oil... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0184JRWN6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   Mine is pissing oil.
   
   •••••••••
   
   I also replaced my number 3 ignition coil. Mine was bad. A mechanic did that one for me. It’s a pisser. 🤦🏻‍♂️
   
   ••••••••
   
   If you need a good low-force torque wrench, I recommend this: TEKTON TRQ21101 1/4-Inch Drive... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M12284X?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   It’s only 1/4” drive, but it works very well. High quality.

Don't do this. You will lose torque. Buy the intake manifold tube for like $80, it is a noticeable (albeit slight) improvement and gives a nice sound. It's been dyno'd at 4~ hp by several folks on the forums. I noticed a faster throttle, and a bigger smile. https://www.amazon.ca/6cyl-Silicone-Intake-Inlet-Upgrade/dp/B06Y1TTW4Y

Some folks have had issues with the mishimoto one, I have one by revmotoring. This is a 15min install.

AN fuel line clamps make for awesome water line separators

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L4DF9HH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_0qI4CbJXJ6AF9

these.

Maybe you can get the tensioner pulley off without first removing the tensioner assembly, in which case you don't need to replace the elbows at this time. Its hard to remember.

Here you go

I have this can (red) and this hose. My dad used them for our dirtbikes when I was growing up so there's a bit of nostalgia in them for me.

It'll be far easier to fix and maintain a generator than it would be to do the same thing with a car. Cars are complex and have tens of thousands of parts whereas a generator is simple and can be easily fixed with cheap parts.

You'll spend $3k+ on a car and end up with extremely poor comparative fuel efficiency and costly maintenance while not even being able to power a fridge. In the end, you'll generate even less electricity than a simple $500 dedicated generator would. You gotta trust us all, you're in a car community. We're all telling you that cars make abysmally terrible electric generators.

If you get a generator that is powered by gas or diesel, get one of these and a filler hose. All you gotta do is fill up that thing like you'd fill up a car. Easy peasy

Check out VP Racing gas cans


http://autoplicity.com/1690401-vp-fuel-containers-3582-5-gallon-square-jug-black?gclid=Cj0KEQjw7-K7BRCkkIH3t_WwoskBEiQAD8oY3iPR2qOXD_JLEHoooPDLmAZ0aqHVuHFimZrBZHhMFcIaAsKA8P8HAQ

https://www.amazon.com/VP-Racing-Fuels-3044-Deluxe/dp/B005G5R5LQ/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=49Q19K750CMH6CCEMZF7

I think it is these ones:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0040CWZR0/ref=pd_aw_fbt_auto_3?refRID=16TJRVKKN57EE8FS0PAB

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I believe the 5000 lb. number is when you have the aux. Transmission cooler and a weight distributing hitch. You shouldn't need a weight distributing hitch when only towing 1700 lbs, but it sounds like you need a cooler for sure.

I'm not familiar with the KK at all, but when I did the install on my ZJ, I didn't need do take the radiator or condensor our like someone else commented about. I did take off the bumper and grill though. I just spliced into the rubber transmission lines with double barbed brass fittings with 2 fuel injector clamps on both ends, and ran new 3/8" high temp trans line in front of the radiator and mounted the cooler to the supports behind the grill. The fuel injector clamps are important, because the dont cut into the rubber lines linke the traditional screw type hose clamps.

Another thing you need to think about is if you want to isolate your aux. cooler from the in-radiator cooler you already have. Most factory Aux. cooler setups are plumbed in-line with the in-radiator cooler. I just completely took the in radiator cooler out of the equation and got an oversized cooler. It a lot easier to not have mess with the fittings on the radiator, since they always seem to be a pain and usually require special tools. It will make your engine run a tick cooler as well. Some people think that you need the in radiator cooler to "warm up" the transmission fluid in the winter, but I've had mine separated for years and I've driven in temperatures as cold as -17*. It took longer until it would shift into overdrive, but that seemed to be the only issue. I'm also not sure it actually warms the fluid up any faster because on initial cold start up the thermostat is closed, so the coolant in the radiator isn't circulating around the engine, so that coolant is just as cold as everything else.

By isolating the aux. cooler, you can also avoid the dreaded "strawberry milkshake", where the radiator cracks/leaks internally and your transmission fluid and coolant mix and gets pumped through the transmission creating a pink frothy goop, that will probably take out your transmission. Thats super rare, but it does happen, Xterras were known for that problem.

Here is the mobile version of your link

Consider one of these, they do better for small hoses https://www.amazon.com/Fuel-Injection-Hose-Clamps-FI6/dp/B0040CU0HM

It's definitely leaking right at the connection?

> (you'd have to hold the pedal AND the switch on the drill)

I thought somebody who'd ask that question would already know you hold down the trigger with a worm gear hose clamp, so I didn't mention it. Since, apparently, that isn't obvious: go to you local hardware store and buy a worm gear hose clamp of the proper diameter to clamp down the trigger on your drill before hooking it up to a foot switch.


>What I'm looking for is something that would allow you to vary the speed via the foot pedal.

Well, fine. Here you go. You're on your own determining if this is the proper control for your particular device: https://www.widgetsupply.com/product/SDD3-975PS.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwoLfHBRD_jLW93remyAQSJABIygGpXMeSAGXv7Cqra5OGNn1JbfCLv1LYznkEG-Q7aNLSsBoCjcPw_wcB