(Part 2) Best bike handlebars according to redditors

How big are they? They make those stash things for handlebars. They also make super low profile waist bands meant to fit just a phone/ keys.

Waist pack

Handle bar stash(likely too small)

I think you're looking for something like this? Comfort Bars.

I would give it another couple of hundred miles. It sounds like just beginner's issues and nothing structural since you haven't logged many miles yet. If you swap to something like the comfort bars you'll never build up the necessary wrist and arm conditioning. Cross races would leave you whimpering. However, if there's an awful amount of discomfort that persists after another 2 months or so I would go back to the shop and get them to adjust your fit based on the pain.

Comfort bars would be a last resort for me and only if I had some sort of wrist injury.

Refer to this infographic for that.

A lot of people made the switch to compact road drops because they're more ergonomic and a little easier on your neck/back. (especially if you plan to commute or ride on open roads). These are really great for the price.

Nice. Back in the day me and some friends wish to park our bikes for a fair bit of time, we'd loosen our quill stems, twist the handlebars 90° and lay them on each other. That way we could use one chain to secure all our bikes.

There's another product available that is supposed to be for bicycles but I noticed being installed on electric scooters instead. Here we go.

https://www.amazon.com/UPANBIKE-Folding-Handlebar-Aluminum-Foldable/dp/B07G45XGTS

please take the comments seriously. It is very, very dangerous to ride as pictured. It's pretty damn easy to tumble and get a bar in your femoral artery. You'd bleed out in minutes. I think these would look great and are cheap as hell. These bar ends would retain your gripless aesthetic while providing the comfort of not taking a fucking core sample when you inevitably fall.

So I drilled two holes in top triple to fit these 7/8'' universal risers. Be sure to use lock nuts and Red Locktite when fixing the risers to the top triple clamp. I used this 7/8'' handlebar. The Brake lines were bought used from an 04-06 SV650 which came stock with a longer brake line. Since my bike is an 06 SV650S that brake line fit my bike. The brake line is easy to find used on ebay or you can buy new if you feel uncomfortable about that. The Clutch Cable and Throttle Cable both need to be longer as well, so I bought this Clutch Cable, Motion Pro 04-0331 and this Throttle Cable, Motion Pro 04-0316. I have novice mechanical skills and it took me 3 hours in total. Not too hard in my opinion. What I did though is bought a spare
top triple tree clamp and drilled into that one so that I could ride my bike while preparing for this modification.

Just get some actual townie style bars.

Last thing bro but I saw you bought a used road bike. I would recommend buying some aero bars to clip onto that bad boy. I'd recommend the T1+ Profile ones you can get them
here

Especially if you're signed up for so many tri's already. That aero position helps tremendously

They are some fairly cheap chinese ones I picked up on amazon to see if I would like butterfly bars.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KZRSCYS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IsqQDbT7PSB3D

I haven't gotten to ride with them yet but I think having a few extra hand placements is going to work out nicely.

Why scared? It's a top cap, it just does preload(low torque). The real work is done by the stem. They have ones that take the spot of the top cap if your that worried. No need to worry about adding or moving spacers around.

https://www.amazon.com/CYSKY-Cycling-Computer-1000%EF%BC%8C820%EF%BC%8C810%EF%BC%8C800%EF%BC%8C-520%EF%BC%8C510%EF%BC%8C500%EF%BC%8C200/dp/B07L3C8W4H

If I could make a recommendation on this front, I would recommend the Nitto Noodle bar, model 177. It's very snazzy looking, and it has HUUUUUUUGE ramp (the part that, on bikes with hooded brakes, sits behind the hood.) They're the most comfy I've found. And you can get them in 41, 44, 46 and 48cm. I like 44, and that just happens to be my chest size, so that may be a good metric to aim for.

http://www.amazon.com/Nitto-Noodle-26-0mm-Silver-Alloy/dp/B001F6M9C0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1299470896&sr=1-1

That's the one I was talking about. =)

I have these and I love them.

Combined with a forward facing seat post I can get in a rather aero position.

This idea looks interesting, but I wouldn't want to be an early adopter. I've heard the bars can shift with medium/high force, and there's more to fitting for areo position than just moving a seat, from my experience at least.

https://www.amazon.com/ROCK-BROS-Handlebar-Mountain-Commuter/dp/B07KMWNWJT

Rockbros, can be found on aliexpress for ~$30

Lots of people lash drybags directly to their handlebars with no cradle at all, just long voile straps.

You can add a little stability by taking some plastic sheets (eg those cheap floppy plastic cutting boards) and routing the straps through slits in those.


I was probably the last person to post the "anything cradle" alternative post. I thought I needed one because I have traditional flat MTB bars and a real mess of brake and shifter cables, and the refusal to alter my trail bike too much for bikepacking. Handlebar bags just wouldn't fit without crushing the cables.

I got one these things, not this exact one. for fifteen USD that I could strap a handlebar bag to without affecting my cable routing at all.

I have these:
https://www.amazon.com/Soma-Oxford-Cruiser-Bicycle-Handlebar/dp/B07CL7GM33

Thanks! They were down to $35 when I purchased them, so I had to jump on the deal.

I have a butterfly bar setup on my touring rig, attached is a tour/mtn specific aero bar. it is not all that aero, but it does have great cushioning on the forearm pads and lots of cushion/foam around the bar up front. It makes all the difference for me on those long rides especially near the end. Yes you do have to be careful of steering, but i only really use them when i am feeling safe (long straight a way, or on bike paths like the silver comet)

These are what i have on my bike and i love them:
http://hawleyusa.com/thcStore/Catalog/ItemDetail.aspx?id=HDBR1150

They should be about 35-40$ from any dealer who uses Hawley as a distributor.

Or amazon has them:
http://www.amazon.com/Evo-Aero-Bars-ATB-Touring/dp/B0051C0Y3U

I have a kilo tt pro and want new handle bars but am confused about which size and diameter to get? Would this one fit my stem? https://www.amazon.ca/FSA-Omega-Compact-Handlebar-Black/dp/B007HWQS8C?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_4&th=1&psc=1

No, I actually upgraded them. I got the bars and the tape off amazon, cost no more than $30 total.

Edited to add Bars and
Tape

Just some cheap fyxations I got from amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Fyxation-Rodeo-Bullhorn-Handle-Black/dp/B006GHDGWA/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1368616260&sr=8-9&keywords=fyxation

Interested in replacing the road bars on my bike with a riser. I’ve already got a brake set on my bike. Planning on buying a riser, a short pull lever, and lock on grips. Is there anything else I’ll need to get? Can I re-use the cable/housing that was on the original brake set?

In terms of the hardware I’ll be picking up…what width and how much rise would you recommend for the riser bar? Currently looking at this one. Does anyone have any specific recommendations for the lever? No idea where to even start looking for that. Where can I find out what clamp size I’ll need?

Will I need any special tools to get this done?

If I'm not mistaken, the vfr has clipons, so you will have to buy handlebars and clamps, as well as new brake lines. I'm changing my clipons to handlebars on my SV so these links are for that bike specifically, but the process should be pretty similar, although it helps that I can get a longer clutch cable from the naked version of my bike.

http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=72804

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=137019

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=131401

(probably the best guide) http://www.sv-portal.com/forums/5-tweaking-tuning-tricking/18709-%246-98-handlebar-conversion-clipons-come-off-superbike-bars-go.html

I'm buying all the parts new, but if you can find a guy that saves motorcycle parts (maybe he used to own a shop or flips bikes) that will save you money. Here is what I have bought:

Clamps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006OP39US/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

bars: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050HC39E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

custom sized brake lines http://www.ebay.com/itm/252726569389?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

new grips http://www.ebay.com/itm/322124605265?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=511045966527&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I don't have aero bars but will get some soon based on the reviews for the T1 and T2 on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Profile-Design-Aero-Bar-Black/dp/B0036CE2O4

http://www.amazon.com/Profile-Design-Carbon-Cobra-Aero/dp/B000R3VJV4/

Question: The Earl comes with a front / rear brake. Are you planning on re-using the levers / brakes?

If so, I would say shell out some money to get Nitto RB-021. I like these bullhorns because they provide a variety of hand positions.

If not, I would say you may have to get some Origin 8 bullhorns and a brake setup from Bike Island

Regarding the cog, I've seen them ranging anywhere from $7 to $20 and up.

Picking the cog will depend on what gear ratio you want. You can use this calculator to figure that out the appropriate cog to get.

The next natural question is how do you pick what gear ratio. Think about your current gearing on your 44x17 bike. Do you find that it's just right? Get a 17t cog. Think it's too hard to pedal with? Get a larger cog - 18t and up. Think it's too easy to pedal with? Get a smaller cog - 16t and below.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001KS1XAC/ref=mp_s_a_5?qid=1313023648&sr=8-5


I really like ones like this that sit in the middle of the bar, that way you don't have to lean as far forward.

I have these on my MTB. They're ridiculously expensive for bar ends. They are comfy, though.

I prefer mountain shoes and pedals for both road and mountain bikes. Much more walkable, and I've ridden 400 km with them without hot spots. I like Egg Beaters, but the other options are fine too.

Rando bar flairs out at the bar end. It's not a regular straight up/down drop. Because of this, when you drop, it's more stable. It's also a bit more comfortable than regular drop bar. I have a 46cm.

I've bought a Easton carbon bar, and a Nitto's noodle.

Carbon bar is interesting. As it's less heat conductive than alu., it's more comfy in winter. This is not on my commute bike but I use the bike for commute once in a while.

Nitto noodle, I just put it on, and it's compact (means short reach / short drop). This is also good for commute.

If you are going to use the stem adpater, Velo Orange's adapter is highly recommended. I just bought another (to go with Nitto bar.).

my Virtue Truck with accessories from left to right:

Thule Yepp Maxi Rack Mount Child Seat

Thule Yepp Maxi Easyfit Adapter

Schwinn Kids Bike Helmet - Teddy Bear

Brooks Saddle (used - exact make unknown)

Velo Orange Copehagen Double Kick

RockBros MTB Pedals

Origin8 Urban-Pro Riser Handlebar

Origin8 Time Clock Bell

Cork Chop Bicycle Grips

21x15" Wald 157 Giant Delivery Basket

15x15” Bungee Net

Kobra Ultra Bright Bike Light - 1200 Lumens


I love everything currently on her, but may end up going a bit wider on the bars now that I'm riding the rig fully loaded.

I got something like this for my bike:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002I7O52C/ref=twister_B002IXX05E
Of course, now it's wrapped with bar-end brakes.

I think the catching one on trees is more of a joke/myth than something that actually happens. If you think about the plane of typical (forget the formal term) u shaped handles that a lot of racing bikes have, they have basically the same plane as bullhorns when looked at from above.

And, if you consider that regular straight bars will have about the same clearance to the side of the bike... there's really not much difference. If you're going to catch something inside a bullhorn, really, it'd probably throw you off using regular handlebars too (as I doubt you'll recover from how far your wheel would be wrenched to the side along with the associated sudden drop on momentum in any case).

Bullhorns aren't for everyone, but for someone like me, they provide a second position and allow me to stay comfortable, and the risks of riding with them are mostly a joke/myth.

Awesome. I know it's already done, but if that's not comfortable enough might I suggest something like these: http://www.amazon.com/FSA-Metropolis-Handlebar-31-8mm-Black/dp/B0037N7S1G/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_1