(Part 3) Best boating & sailing accessories according to redditors

Actually those are the old school floaties that can kill kids, lots of places won't even let kids in the pool with them on. These are the new standard in invincibility

Edit: for those asking, the old style arm bands could cause unintentional drownings because children could end up stuck face down, or in a position where their arms in the floaties were above the water and their heads were submerged (they could also just slip off leading to children getting into trouble in the water), the newer type have straps, as well a flotation device across the chest, so kids can't end up face down and their heads can't get stuck under the water.

Don't JADE Justify, Argue, Defend, Explain - don't bother, it just gives MILs more fuel.

I suggest one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Shoreline-Marine-Air-Horn-3-5/dp/B004UOVBAU/ to help with the interruptions. You may need a spare can.

You don't need to discuss anything with them. They are going to try to steamroll you whatever you say. You can inform them of decisions you are making, listen to advice, but the decisions are yours to make.

Stand strong. You've got this.

You can buy a battery eliminator for the handheld and then a cigarette splitter. That way you have a single power source and dont have to worry about the battery in the HT dying.

Also, Amazon and Academy sell 'power stations' for trolling motors that those batteries fit into that have terminals, USB ports, cigarette sockets, etc

https://www.amazon.com/Newport-Vessels-Trolling-Battery-Center/dp/B01AE2TG7G/

No

60 Watt Panel

Charge Controller

Battery

Light

12v Cig Adapter

Why not use a dry sack/bag? They're used in hiking/camping/backpacking to keep things like clothes and electronics dry when you're outdoors and it's wet. But you could use them to keep wet things inside the back from wetting things outside it. The above link is just an example; they come in all sizes.

Nifty idea! I've never encountered troublesome seagulls, but I could see those birds being real assholes if they don't like a drone.

Another idea: Put a couple mega-bright LEDs on your drone. These small LED lights are so bright that I cannot look at my drone when they are turned on. They can be seen from miles away. I cannot adequately explain how absurdly bright they are.

The bonus is that these lights let you safely fly your drone at night as well.

arm bands are out of favor (mostly because if they are air filled that aren't coast guard approved because they could pop or deflate). They are hard to find as single arm bands now.

The in thing right now are puddle jumpers. The question is though whether your kid is heavy enough for them.

At 8 months and for a holiday, I would probably go with an inflatable seat and planning on holding him. We mostly did that for our kids before they were walking.

cheaper on amazon of course

https://www.amazon.com/HOOK-MOOR-BOAT-New-England/dp/B00B8F32JW/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1483780686&sr=8-16&keywords=boat+hook

You likely have a battery selector switch. You only need 1 battery. The other is a backup. If you run your trolling motor, livewell, stereo, etc you might kill the battery. In that case you would just switch to the other battery.

Any competent electrician will warn you against repeatedly using a breaker as a switch (but yes, I have). They DO have a limited lifespan. It's big, but so are the consequences of you being unlucky and it failing. I'd use a dedicated switch (I use this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00445KFZ2/) and a fuse rated to 150% of the max expected current. Keep in mind, your inverter is designed to handle a surge, and most electrical things draw a huge surge when they start for a brief moment. You have to consider that current in your fuse selection as well. I always kill the inverter when not in use. It arguably increases its lifespan as well. It's one less thing to fail while I sleep, while I am away from the van, or while I am driving down a mountain in snow!!!

Looks like part of a trolling motor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004360NKY/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_Ae8PDbPXKFPV6

I was out there about a week ago for a couple nights. You will encounter a decent amount of mud and can expect your feet to get completely submerged at multiple points. That said, it's a unique trail for Texas and can be a lot of fun. As far as the stubblefield bridge being out, I didn't want to risk crossing it. When I arrived it looked safe to go across, but there were multiple signs stating that you could face jail time if you went on it. I know the chance of getting caught was minimal, I just didn't want to risk it so I turned around. Other than that, I had a great time out there, but it's getting to the point where the humidity and bugs are getting oppressive. You should definitely try to time your hike with a cold front.

I'm so desperate to do a thru hike that I have considered buying an ultralight packraft, caching a canoe at the closed bridge, or bushwacking around the lake to the north. I'll most likely have to wait till next year so hopefully the pedestrian section of the bridge is legal to cross by then.

Covered or uncovered you should use a small bilge pump. They're super cheap and it's better than coming home to a submerged boat. Even covered if there's a small hole anywhere water is getting in so you'd need the pump.

This is a good one. You want one with a built in float or buy one with a separate float. Either way just know the 15 buck one is meant to wire up to an automatic float or switch.

these are what we use for swimming in our pool for our 4 and 5 year old ( they've been using them for a couple years now) and it keeps them afloat even when they jump in. They are rated for a minimum of 30lbs

Edited: you actually did say how big your 3 year old is. Reading comprehension, not my strong suit. Also, I meant to reply overall but replied to a specific comment. I'm already betting today is going to be a rough day for me.

I bought a deep cycle battery and connected it to the car starting battery with a switch http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00445KFZ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

You turn the switch on when driving, which allows your deep cycle to charge, and turn it off when parked so it doesn't draw from your starter.

I then wired up a cigarette lighter to my deep cycle and use it for a 12 v fan, phone charger, and 12 v laptop charger.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JT7B3A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You drill a hole in the floor of your van and run at least 4 gauge wire from the positive pole of your car starting batter, to the positive pole of your deep cycle with the switch in line. Then you ground your negative pole on your deep cycle to the frame.

After that you can add on whatever components to the deep cycle to draw charge with ring connectors.

The draw back of this set up is that you MUST turn your switch to off when parked otherwise you can draw power of your car battery and be unable to start your car.

Oh! One of the best purchases I've ever made for my canoe! http://www.amazon.com/GCI-Outdoor-SitBacker-Canoe-Seat/dp/B0042WZ77I

yep.

https://www.amazon.com/OUTXE-20000mAh-Waterproof-Flashlight-Portable/dp/B07BJYYW55

or bigger:

https://www.amazon.com/Yak-Power-YP-BBK-Power-Pack-Battery/dp/B06Y15F861

https://www.amazon.com/Newport-Vessels-Trolling-Battery-Center/dp/B01AE2TG7G

I use one of these in the engine compartment and one of these for smaller branch circuit inside the cabin on the back of the firewall.

I'd worry about using something that isn't a) common or b) intended for that use.

> I'm looking more for what, if anything, is needed in the wiring behind the socket.

You need an Automotive Receptacle, and an Inline Fuse (2A is plenty) to protect it.

> But I'm wondering if there is some other interference on that battery and the wiring that I'm going to need to address.

What else do you have hooked up on the Leisure Battery and how do you charge it?


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Automotive Socket:

https://www.amazon.com/Attwood-Marine-12-Volt-Power-Outlet/dp/B003EET3XY/

(IIRC 12V and 24V use the same physical socket, though you might want to look for a 24V specific one if you don't want to risk it)

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Inline Fuse (Actual Fuse Not Included):

https://www.amazon.com/Scosche-0400ATCFH16-5-Fuse-Holder-Gauge/dp/B008CVPE8C

I stick with the classics: CO2 Aerosol Shoreline Marine Air Horn.

Three short blasts should do it. Silence over.

Amazon Link

Also created /r/battlewagon today if anyone is interested.

It's extremely rigid (I can carry it from one end by myself when it's inflated without it touching the ground), and it directly supports this motor. I really have zero complaints about it. I haven't bought the motor yet, but there are plenty of reviews saying the motor works great with it.

I've got similar electrical needs to you, currently move between inverness and the central belt and have 290w on the roof. There have a couple times where it's been dreary for a few days and the batteries have rundown near to 50%, so in those events I've limited my usage and gone for a wee drive the next day. Hasn't happened too often though.

If you're driving every day you might be fine without solar but I would look in to a proper battery charger like one of these (https://www.amazon.com/Sterling-BB1230-12-Volt-30-Amps/dp/B071DMV7PF/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1535726827&sr=8-1&keywords=sterling+bb1230). I only mention it because my 'smart' relay only pushes 14.6v in to the batteries which isn't enough for an equalize charge and they'd end up dieing prematurely if it was the only charging source.

I'll plug this fridge too as it's awesome and uses very little power.

Update:

The bottom is a hard line keel for both the Pungo and the Loon. The Loon has sloping sides, whereas the Pungo is hard-chined. I wouldn't think there would be much performance difference, but the stability of the Pungo could be a bit better. Don't have pics of that.

I have had the Loon out on the water like 5 times now. It handled the first time with a bit of chop pretty well. Then three of the times, in placid water, it was so sleek it was like a dream. The other time it was in moderate chop, it did feel stable, but I didn't venture too far from shore.

It tracks very well, turns on what to me feels like a dime. My friend had a LL Bean Manatee (10') and I easily went in circles around it in terms of speed and tracking.
Here are two other pics for reference on the water. I like the side view because it shows how low in the water it sits. I believe this is good for flat-water kayaking since it reduces the wind drag. It moderately protects against water coming over the bow, but I'm sure a touring or sea kayak would be better in that department: http://imgur.com/a/N617B

Finally, it is soooo comfortable, at least compared with numerous rental boats I've tried over the years. I could sit in it for hours. Width and length are great to stretch out, and the seat is awesome. I'd recommend getting a high back PFD. I literally tried 5 of them with the kayak, and the two best for me were: Astral http://amzn.to/29rVAMB and Onyx: http://amzn.to/2920ZrR (the one I bought)

If size is the main issue with the breaker panel check out this one. It mounts directly on the battery posts

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00SE6Z2WI/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003EET3XY

I purchased this as my first fuel can and really like it.

https://www.amazon.com/Surecan-CRSUR5G1-Gasoline-CAN-Gallon/dp/B00DE2EDAY/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=gas+can&qid=1564078992&s=gateway&sr=8-6

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These firehouse strobes are popular (but I have not used them).

https://www.amazon.com/Firehouse-Technology-Approved-Flights-Quadcopter/dp/B073PMGLXR/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=firehouse+strobe&qid=1564079064&s=gateway&sr=8-1

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I picked up this mirror

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RZQI68/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I tend to think of my flashlights as 'before I knew anything about flashlights' and 'proper lights.'

That said, there's some 'before' lights that are fantastic (I use a Tek-tite on a post to light my kayak/canoe at night and I don't think there's anything better).

1. Wire wise - Amazon - look up Anchor Tinned Wire and get a 25' section of 8ga 2 wire red/black at biggest (radio, plus lights, plus accessories ) but 12ga with 2 wires should be fine for small electronics.
   
   
   Example:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Ancor-121510-Marine-Duplex-Cables/dp/B000NUYBW0/
   
   
2. Lack of a Switch or Disconnect - don't do this. A) Danger Will Robinson ! B) is not approved by coasties/inspection most places. Get a proper battery switch. Put this switch between the battery Positive and the motor positive and your accessories positive. The ground/black from the motor, from the accessories etc can all go right to the negative terminal on the battery. We're only switching the 12+ Positive side.
   
   
   Example:
   
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Perko-8501DP-Marine-Battery-Selector/dp/B00144B6AE
   
   
   
   
   I say these things for the following reasons:
   
   
3. you'll eventually wanna sell the boat and upgrade to something bigger. When I as a buyer see things like accessory wiring going right to the battery instead of a battery switch - I use items like that to lowball the fuck out of the seller. It also says "if they did this janky to save $20, what else did they do janky" ?
   
   
   
4. Safety - you always need a way to 100% disconnect electronics. This can be because of a fire, a mystery battery drain, long term storage etc. We want a disconnect from the battery. Now that said - plugging and unplugging a quick connect/ disconnect versus a proper battery switch is a GREAT way to blow yourself up depending where the gas fumes are, where your gas tank is, etc. It's one more possible thing to corrode as well as ignite. Make sure when you do your charging etc you are careful (connect the tender first THEN plug it into the wall outlet)
   
   
   
5. Long term usage - the more correct you do it now, the more money you save in the long run making small repairs later.
   
   
   
   Wiring Example:
   
   
   https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRrykWkGL7Y6N6zwAiDNcYPNvgQglOC4aJx0ntB9qn2Iv_INk1TUQ

I stuff my Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2 into a 4L bag (red one here - Outdoor Products 3-Pack All Purpose Dry Sack, One Size, Assorted https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079TKKCVP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_kBj8Cb7G5D340), always stuff, never fold. I separate the poles and pegs though

Get him a few of those write in the rain notebooks. you can probably get them cheaper from somewhere. They may give these out for free now, but I had to buy them when I was in. I have like 5 filled with all sorts of notes and useful shit. Also a decent watch that allows multiple time zones and has a decent count-down timer.

EDIT: One of these would also be useful too.

Another EDIT: This is all stuff I found useful. I was in the Marines back in 04-07, so we had to buy a lot of stuff ourselves. He may get these issued, but it's always good to have extra gear. Saw pouch For saw ammo, but also a good general purpose pouch that can be attached to a pack for extra storage.

Waterproofing bags Was issued one, but bought a few extras. Good for organizing stuff in a ruck.

Other small shit I always found myself buying (Stocking stuffers) AA batteries, 550 cord, duct tape, electric tape, zip ties, map pens, regular pens, new socks, tobacco products.

Are you familiar with military-style dry bags? Something like that but smaller might work. And probably not in olive green.

Yeah, I thought anyone interested in the thread would be! But as soon as I posted the original version with amazon links, it was auto-deleted. Weird.

Oh well, here are my products:

Solar panel: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017OMTAV6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=I2R53I6ASRE7TH&psc=1

Charge controller: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JMLPP12/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=IMF9F8IHLJ6EN&psc=1

House battery: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/SSBQ/3478PLT/03321.oap?year=1967&make=Ford&model=Mustang&vi=1332302&ck=Search_03321_1332302_-1&pt=03321&ppt=C0005

Battery isolator: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058SGDFK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=I2UYT4LFVI14AN

Van fan: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002OWAIB8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=I1Q9S1UN7Z94H7&psc=1

LED lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JF2A6G/ref=od_aui_detailpages02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fuse block: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K2MBPA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=IK1ERB55YT6QX&psc=1

Busbar: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-MiniBus-Grounding-Terminal/dp/B0058GA4IO/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1467345205&sr=8-11&keywords=6+terminal+bus

Main line fuses (inline): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WZHE3A4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=ICS8GYAQNUJV1&psc=1

I would just add, try to put the fuses the closest possible to the power source (batteries in this case) to prevent melted wires in case the insulation of wire gets damaged and starts grounding with the chassis of the car.

This a good idea for the 3 way socket thing , and something like this for the inverter that you plan on using.

A friend of mine has a similar canoe with the molded seats. I've found the standard seats like this one work perfectly fine. And by fine I mean I've been comfortable after paddling up to 5 hours straight.

https://www.amazon.com/GCI-Outdoor-SitBacker-Canoe-Seat/dp/B0042WZ77I

I've done a few searches, but I cannot find anywhere to buy this.

*edit found it

I had bought specific kayaking ones, but these I found on ebay and are so comfortable. Plus it was like 10 bucks or something. I can find the link to the item if people are interested.

Edit: I couldn't find the same product, but this one has a similar cut and shape http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Swimming-Life-Jacket-Boating-Kayaking-Surfing-SUP-Buoyancy-Aid-Fishing-Vest-/322494891715?hash=item4b163186c3

Alternatively, I also bought this one I bought one. Almost as comfortable but the back was too high so I would end up leaning and sitting too far back. These fit the kids perfectly though https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00FI3FAZ4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And since we're talking about PFDs, this is the one I use for the sausage puppy https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01GPOUOZU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use one of these. I have some navigational lights on the bow too.

If those things aren't fused, they should be. Putting in a little fuse block (like https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K2MBPA/) fixes both issues -- easy fusing + tidy.

I went with one of these.

Highly recommended by other dwellers and This blog has a great review on it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E4KOQE8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498101506&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=klymit+lwd&dpPl=1&dpID=41knE6t2svL&ref=plSrch

I use this one: https://smile.amazon.com/Seaflo-Automatic-Submersible-750gph-Switch/dp/B00B0L4ONM/

Can someone recommend me the best battery / power center / whatever else I'll need. I just bought this boat yesterday from Amazon and also picked up the trolling motor, here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005QIB7K8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon suggests I buy the Minn-Kota battery and power center. Is that the best option or is there a better one? I read some shady reviews on the power center.

Forgot to add the link...

Kayalu Kayalite® Kayak Light | Portable bright white LED kayak light. Top-ratings in pro-paddling community. Kayak light compatible with sit-on-top (SOT), stand-up paddle board (SUP), canoe, scull. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003GTZQJW/

Kayalu has really good gear. I've used several of their mounts and they've all been superb.

I made one years ago, so I don't have specific instructions, but what I did was buy a cheap silnylon dry sack and a Nylon Barb Fitting Adapter. I cut a small hole in the dry bag, inserted the threaded part of the nylon adapter in there with a bit of silicone caulking, then cinched the nut down tight. Then I connected the barb adaptor to my sawyer filter. Works like a charm!

You can get a brand new Minn Kota for less than the cost of a good cordless drill these days lol.

Could always go with the Klymit Litewater Dinghy

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E4KOQE8/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_lAYKAbNJSBWW8

Easy.

https://amzn.com/B000DINKPQ $15.

https://amzn.com/B004UOVBAU $12.45

Buy several to really multiply the drown-out-ability.

Nice, glad to hear she is back up and running! I've had a slow battery drain in my tow vehicle for years. It will kill a battery while sitting over the course of about 3 weeks. After days of fruitless searches trying to find the drain, I eventually just broke down and left it hooked up to a battery tender so that it was always at full charge when I needed it. For my case, a Battery Tender jr. with a cigarette lighter adapter has worked great for me for over 10 years now. If your boat is not protected from the elements, you could also consider the water proof version of the battery tender.

One last thought that has saved me from worrying about any of this on my boat is to install a battery switch, so that you can simply turn off all connections to the battery when you are not using the boat. I currently use this one with two group 27 batteries. You could do something similar if you suspect you have a power drain. You do not need to add the second battery if you don't want, instead you can just get a simple on off switch like this. Though it is nice peace of mind when you are offshore to know you have a backup. Happy boating! Let me know if you have any more questions.

Three stars on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/HOOK-MOOR-BOAT-New-England/dp/B00B8F32JW. Lots of people say it broke quickly.

I don't have the same kayak (I've got a Pescador 12), but had the same problem as you with the seat area being concaved. What I did that really made for a comfortable day on the water was to buy a canoe seat like this one-- https://www.amazon.com/GCI-Outdoor-SitBacker-Canoe-Seat/dp/B0042WZ77I -- and then take some PVC and sort of fit it around the concave area to try and make a flat area for the seat to set on. Googling "PVC kayak seat" was always a good starting point for me.

Or this http://www.amazon.com/USMC-Military-SealLine-Sack-Waterproof/dp/B0036YSE9Q/ref=pd_bxgy_sg_img_y

You can do a combo like this for pretty close to your budget. The boat itself is surprisingly resilient, collapses down to a (heavy) bag for your apartment. Motor mounts on securely. Plan for some occasional vinyl repairs, and you have to deal with a battery and charging, but it'll putt you around until you want to get into something more permanent. I use this as a dinghy for a powerboat and it works great. I added a small solar panel ($75) and converter unit ($15) so it charges the battery when it's parked for a while.

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Intex Excursion 5

https://www.amazon.com/Intex-Excursion-5-Person-Inflatable-Aluminum/dp/B00CMBJ1VE/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536084088&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=intex+boat&psc=1

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Intex electric trolling motor

https://www.amazon.com/Intex-Trolling-Motor-Inflatable-Boats/dp/B005QIB7K8/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1536084206&sr=1-5&keywords=intex+trolling+motor

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Motor mount

https://www.amazon.com/Intex-Motor-Mount-inflatable-Boats/dp/B000NNM4BW/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1536084263&sr=1-5&keywords=Intex+Motor+Mount+Kit+inflatable+Boats

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This mount: Brocraft Fishing Kayak Trolling Motor Mount Universal + Two Rocket Launching Rod Holder/Kayak Outboard Motor Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GFLQW9K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Q.pKDb6NM5K24

This battery: Newport Vessels Trolling Motor Smart Battery Box Power Center with USB and DC Ports https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AE2TG7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JeqKDbD220121

This kayak: https://m.dickssportinggoods.com/p/perception-hook-10-5-angler-kayak-15ptnuhknglr105xxpsk/15ptnuhknglr105xxpsk

Motor option one: Newport Vessels Kayak Series 36lb Thrust Transom Mounted Saltwater Electric Trolling Motor w/ LED Battery Indicator (24" Shaft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07454VQ71/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JfqKDb4466D49
(This also has a 36 pound option, any input on that would be nice too)

Motor option two: Minn Kota Endura C2 30 Freshwater Transom Mounted Trolling Motor (30" Shaft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004360NKY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tgqKDbKN5Y1V0

I like Blue Sea switches. Used them on boats for years. Whatever you get, make sure it's rated for the amps you pass through it.

The fuse/CB size should be the lowest for whatever the max the circuit will draw and the wire will support. Say a fridge draws 4a at normal running but 12a starting, then the fuse should be 15a and the wire sized to the 15a.

I fused my 2 series panels at 15a since 10a would not be enough, so I have 2 fuses because of series 2 in parallel, both on positive side of the panels. You don't need to fuse both sides.

I fuse and switch positive.

Battery cutoff should be before the first load off the batteries and completely isolate them.

The victron BMV will work by itself, all it needs is the shunt and a positive lead.

I disagree that is the "best" MPPT, but use what you want. That one is cheap, but their support is direct from china and they have more than a few reviews of people having hard times with warranty and support, that plus it is very large.

I like Will's videos, but my experience with the victron is not anywhere like what he complained about. The connections are solid and it doesn't get hot at all. Initially I was concerned, so I put a temp monitor inside the compartment and a 12v computer fan on the vent, but even without the fan the compartment that is about 2' x 1' x 1' and under a couch is only about 2 degrees F warmer than the rest of the van when in direct sunlight pulling in nearly all of the 400W.

Fusing the 200a draw is not about the amp-hours of the battery. amp-hours are how long it can discharge, not how fast. you need to find out what the max discharge rate for the batteries are, and the max amp rating of the inverter and size your wires and fuse according to that (along with the length of the run)

"going up one size" on the wire is a general term. Use this instead https://www.wirebarn.com/Wire-Calculator-_ep_41.html

Battery is good. I've tested the bilge pump running directly off the battery. I do have a cheap harbor freight multi-meter.
The pump only pulls 3amps at 12v. I figured the fuse block was a little overboard, but for a few bucks more, I decided to get it (along with an assortment of 3/5/7.5 etc amp fuses) and leave room for future expansion.
The big questions is the fuse block. Looking at it confused me. I assumed the 14 terminals, 7 on each side, running down the long sides will receive positive wire. But I wasn't sure what to do with the negative wire. The top of the block has 7 additional terminals, but I wasn't sure what those were for, maybe the negative wire? But if so, why are there only 7 terminals and not 14? I'm sure its simple and obvious, but I'm missing it. Thanks

Here's the pump: Seaflo pump

Defer to your further research as to whether it is OK to fix it up or get a new one. It does look a bit worn out from my perspective, but if it holds you and it is leak free, might be worthwhile. My advice would be to stick close to shore though :)

What you have is a type of "touring" kayak, which will be fine for a local lake. If you're looking for something with a larger opening, get a recreational kayak instead. Types are reviewed here: https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/kayak.html

Definitely a good idea if you have a pool to watch some Youtube videos and try out techniques.

As for paddle, I can recommend https://www.rei.com/product/766595/bending-branches-whisper-paddle

For PFD (personal flotation device), I recommend https://www.amazon.com/MoveVent-Dynamic-Paddle-Sports-Orange/dp/B00FI3FAZ4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491528039&sr=8-1&keywords=onyx+life+jacket

Also, you'll need to think about how to transport it. For instance, last year I owned a recreational kayak, and had it on the roof of my car using the following:

foam to protect the car and on which to place the kayak: https://www.rei.com/product/672423/riverside-universal-kayak-replacement-foam-blocks
straps secured over the sides and tied through my car windows: https://www.rei.com/product/853269/riverside-heavy-duty-utility-straps-twin-pack-15-ft
tie-downs for the front and back, and secure it to a metal non-moving piece of the car: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IHQHYPI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Your battery shouldn't have too many connections. So either add it inline to an existing circuit with capacity or add a fuse block.

One of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SE6Z2WI/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
and something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Marine-Grade-Socket-Cigarette-Lighter/dp/B0112KJ09S/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1502844361&sr=1-3&keywords=usb+12+volt

OK, we are going to try to get one of these. How to I know which one is the correct one?

https://www.amazon.com/Perko-8501DP-Marine-Battery-Selector/dp/B00144B6AE/ref=lp_2598388011_1_1?srs=2598388011&ie=UTF8&qid=1554134911&sr=8-1

I suppose the cables go on the same way?

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This is absolutely true. However. The modifications required are a stick on light that can be had on Amazon for under $50:

https://www.amazon.com/Firehouse-Technology-Approved-Flights-Quadcopter/dp/B073PMGLXR/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=uas+night+light&qid=1556464058&s=gateway&sr=8-6-spell

People get 107 night waivers using those, never mind recreational flights.

As for the footage itself, it looks compressed, IE shot with a telephoto rather than wide angle lens. (I was thinking inspire here until someone mentioned class B... That is unfortunate and an Ins. pilot kinda should know better so perhaps a Mavic 2 zoom? ) That compression means it's hard to have a good idea of exactly where he was or what he was flying over. (Kinda why you're not supposed to fly FPV without a VO, ya know?) I agree that the general area is bad if it is class B but I don't think there's sufficient evidence that he's flying over people, including that highway.

My point here is that there is a degree of ambiguity about whether or not this was legal. I see people frequently rush to judgement on these flights- and my suspicion is that the "crime" may sometimes be SLANDER. Yelling about how other people are commiting crimes has the potential to be a crime itself, and is regardless a somewhat unwelcoming thing to do to new members of the community.

PS regarding that Class B business: Recreational pilots are still allowed to follow community based guidelines like those published by the AMA. Here's the whole guidance:

www.modelaircraft.org/files/100.pdf

He doesn't need to be in class G, write a letter for a waiver, use LAANC or any other shenanigans. He needs to be 5 miles from an airport. Fin.

Have you seen this?

Sterling BB1230-12 Volt, 30 Amps - Pro Batt Ultra Battery to Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071DMV7PF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Xg9RCb3FA8T5T

Its able to charge LFP AGM etc, theres only 2 reviews and one is probably from the company, but it seems like a great solution. The issue is that its not readily set up for direct solar hookup and you need an extra MPPT charge controller for that.