(Part 2) Best caulk according to redditors
We found 87 Reddit comments discussing the best caulk. We ranked the 49 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
The wires run thru a short piece of metal conduit and the rest of the hole is plugged with fire putty. The rest of the vent holes are cover in HVAC foil tape.
3M MP+STIX Fire Barrier Putty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00746006C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Ahg1CbCE4XSVT
Almost certainly silicone caulk. It looks like it didn't seal 100% and has gotten a bit of mold underneath.
Looks like they used both clear and colored (white or almond) caulk. The job around the faucet is pretty poor, there is way too much caulk.
You can scrape it out but MUST replace it, or you'll have leaks behind the tile and whatnot.
Make sure to use a plastic scraper to remove so you don't tear up the finish.
Buy replacement silicone caulk, I recommend clear, though color is obviously a preference.
You can use one of these little helper tools to smooth out the corners so they're a consistent amount of caulk.
http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Silicone-Caulking-corners-joints/dp/B003N3KQ6E
You can also use your finger, but it's messier and harder to get a consistent bead.
There are products like this but I have never used them. Lots of tools too. I usually just use finger or a piece of cardboard or plastic cut to shape. (Don't cut finger to shape, pick a different finger if not correct shape) , smooth passes and practice is the best advice I can give. Also don't be afraid to waste some silicone.
Custom print: here
Cement: here
If you want to be on a really safe side, use the silicones that are approved by coral reef keeping community. Coral reef tanks are the most sensitive, and don't accept silicone with additives.
So, Momentive RTV108 is proven product. I have researched it when I was building my reef tank.
Maybe it’s cheating but this stuff works for just about anything:
DAP 27511 10oz DynaGrip Heavy Duty Max Exterior & Interior Construction Adhesive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7VG62S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Y4qDAbQRRRG6C
I've been a huge fan of the GE Caulk Smoother:
http://www.amazon.com/M90001-Caulk-Smoother-Bottle-Silicone/dp/B00114PCIO/ref=pd_sxp_redirect
Works fantastic. Apply thin bead, mist, smooth with finger, profit. Makes me look like a caulking professional.
Have run out before, and found that a low % rubbing alcohol works almost as good. High % rubbing alcohols evaporate too quickly.
You'll have to bend the second hook so the spring can rest on it.
amazon
It looks very similar to a caulk saver. You push it in the end of an open tube of caulk to keep it from drying out.
Thank you. Perhaps something like this? Red Devil 0777 Lifetime Ultra Premium Elastomeric Acrylic Latex Sealant
Sometimes what you need is some black caulk. I know it's really hard to find in Japan, but once you've tried some black caulk, you'll never have to worry about seeing mildew again.
If you have to go from Amazon, this stuff is extremely high bonding. But you will need more than a quart is my guess. T88 I have used this stuff a fair bit, not a real long working time.
I have not used this stuff but its available, and the dosing pumps make mixing very nice. 5:1 kit
Would you say the product linked below is suited for the task?
http://www.amazon.com/100-Silicone-Kitchen-Bath-Sealant/dp/B002GD09SC
The arm's definitely floppy, and it's from early 2000s so it could be the threads. Would this work?
The bend is probably 90 degrees, not sure about the distance, I'll try and measure it tomorrow.
https://www.amazon.com/Sashco-Pre-Caulking-Backer-Contractor-Packaging/dp/B00AHNOPYM
Is this the foam packing rod you are talking about?
Your best bet is some glass epoxy, your gunna wanna try and work it into the crack when you apply it aswell. http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-29329-E-30Cl-Glass-Bonding/dp/B00BWEOW84 (pretty sure you can find cheaper just an example)
True, i'm not sure of the point of making darts that big though. They have 3/4 and 1 inch too though.
I use this stuff for almost everything and it's fantastic! I can't recommend it enough. It is a bit more expensive, but definitely worth it imo. Paintable, indoor and outdoor, mold resistant, elastic, doesn't fade or cloud, etc..
Edit: Here's an Amazon link if you don't have an Ace nearby, or want the white version.
Not sure what your application is, but there are a couple of things that may do the job. I worked in a steel mill and had to walk on red-hot steel slabs. We would put this stuff on the seams of our boots to keep them from catching on fire. Probably wouldn't take much to flame proof that. Looks like they have a fire proof tape too.
Alright - so full disclaimer here, I don't know a thing about welding. Welding it might be a better option than this, so if that is the route you're looking to take disregard.
What I would do is pick up some stainless steel 100% food grade silicone caulk - example here
Find out exactly where the hole is on the spout (there are a number of ways to do this) and apply a little bit of the caulk to the hole. Let it cure for 48 hours and attempt to use the teapot again.
Why I think this will work - the caulk is good up to 450 degrees. Its NSF certified food safe (don't do this with regular silicone caulk as it contains mildewcide which isn't safe). Also another bonus is it will flex with the metal as it heats up.
Plus its like a $10 fix (cheaper if you can find a smaller tube) and I'm fairly confident it will solve your problem.