Best electrical cable staples according to redditors
We found 48 Reddit comments discussing the best electrical cable staples. We ranked the 14 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 48 Reddit comments discussing the best electrical cable staples. We ranked the 14 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
I bought a long, white coax cable from home depot, and ran it down the wall, and around the baseboards to the opposite wall, to be hidden on my media unit. Used these to secure it tightly in place, along boards. It is basically invisible. You can also get different styles of clips at your hardware store.
I was in the same boat a few years ago. Grab a pack of these bad boys (in white if you want them to blend in better) and call it a day, they work great.
I don't know why it's so hard to find cable clamps with a screw on both sides. They do exist, but jesus I can't find a single one online.
This is the closest thing I can find.
I think rampant destruction is one of the things that you just have to be prepared for when you decide to have pets or small children, it comes with the territory :-) No matter how careful you try to be, the best you can do is plan on the fact that something will get destroyed, and try to make sure that it doesn't end with a trip to the emergency vet/hospital.
I have a very curious Great Dane who's now 16 months old. Even in his puppy days he was big enough to reach my vanity table-top and/or knock the table over. A few months ago I solved the problem entirely by moving my battlestation into my master closet, which is a walk-in. Dexter is afraid of the bathroom (which is between the bedroom and closet), so he won't go near it at all. It didn't sound like you have a place to put your stuff that's off-limits to the cats, so here are some other things I've done in the past to pet-proof my valuables-
Is this more like what you're looking for?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I97FHY/
Or a little more power and finish
https://www.homedepot.com/p/PowerShot-5900-Insulated-Cable-and-Wire-Tacker-5900/202097439
If your 2.4GHz spectrum is crowded, then moving to the 5GHz spectrum could really help. Remember, though, that both the router and the computer have to support 5GHz to talk there. You might need to buy a new wireless card for it.
If you want to be sure you'll never have to deal with wireless interference again, though, you have to ditch the wireless. You can buy network cable in all kinds of lengths for pretty cheap, and just tack it to your baseboards.
I would have had the same problem, but instead I bought these [bad boys] (http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Clip-White-RG6-100-pieces/dp/B000I97FHY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1344787963&sr=8-1&keywords=ethernet+clips). I don't know how your parents would like the cable going along the trim though :\
The below is all you should need maybe with the addition of some paint
mounting wall hooks
cable clips
send me pics if you end up making it!
If your concern regarding staples is that they can damage the cable, then:
They'll fit in most staple guns, making securing your cable quick while also not destroying it.
Just buy these...
http://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Cable-Clip-White-Pieces-200-961/dp/B000I97FHY
I have my entire rented house ran using those things, I just do it along the wall/baseboard all neat and stuff. They have wider versions if you wanna run two cables instead of one. When I need to run it up a wall and there is no corner near by, I just use this...
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_pg_2?rh=n%3A172282%2Ck%3Acable+channel+raceway+wall&page=2&keywords=cable+channel+raceway+wall&ie=UTF8&qid=1418615205
Hmm, wonder why they did that. Anyway, here's an Amazon link - https://www.amazon.ca/CableWholesale-Cable-Clip-White-Pieces-200-961/dp/B000I97FHY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=coaxial+cable+clip&qid=1571259964&sr=8-3
Staple gun is not a good idea, it will almost certainly damage it. They make purpose made staple guns for running wires, or you can get a pack of cable tacks Example.
Edit: If you really want to use a staple gun, don't staple the wire, staple a zip tie up in the middle and then use that to secure the cable.
Yea if its a brick house you need basement or attic access to be minimally invasive. If the landlord is cool and does not care... you could just drill in through the side of the house right next to what ever room you were running the wire into.
If you do the eyehole thing on the door. Just be sure to run the wires so they will not get pinched :)
These will help with that
Either solution will introduce latency. So if you're playing competitive fps games, it'll negatively affect your game.
Why not use something like this to make the wire run look neater?
I'm in a pretty arid place, but even I have gutters. How does your house handle rain?
That being said: electrical staples.
Running cables inside a wall is a thing (and not even that expensive if it's drywall). And even if you install it on the outside of a wall, you can install it on the edge to the ceiling with these clips, far out of reach from children or cats.
And again, signal repeater will only work if it's a distance problem, not an obstacle problem.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Cable-Clip-White-Pieces-200-961/dp/B000I97FHY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481834961&sr=8-2&keywords=cable+tacks
Maybe you can find one sized exactly for USB, Q&A indicates this might be just a touch loose.
These things don't totally cover the strip but they are more than enough to keep it held on tight.
PARTH IMPEX Round Cable Wire Clips 4mm 6mm 8mm 10mm (Pack of 400) Cable Management RG6 RG59 CAT5 CAT6 RJ45 Electrical Ethernet Dish TV Speaker Wire Cord Tie Holder Single Coaxial Nail Clamps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZYB2NV1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Kui5AbSKNGRY2
Definitely don't use staples. Use wire clips like this.
the little uhooks with the nail on them. I work in IT and i use the shit out of these things to clean up cables when they are going to visible
https://www.amazon.com/PARTH-IMPEX-Management-Electrical-Ethernet/dp/B06ZYB2NV1/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1541194959&sr=8-4&keywords=cable+hooks
If the "technician" suggested powerline BEFORE suggesting anything else (like an AP or mesh system) you can completely disregard anything he says honestly. Powerline is probably best saved for a last resort. You could always run Ethernet cables on the walls and use those nail in cable anchors to secure them. Something like this
Then just plug the Ethernet cable into a ubiquiti access point and you're good to go
I used this shit with white wire to run along baseboards. Works OK.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MDVSJMQ
I used these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FPAI3Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for my attic cat6 runs and they worked out great. They were also good for holding the coax. The cables can split off from these to their respective headers without any fuss.
Use velcro straps to tie bundles together, never zip ties.
These - I was able to get a smaller container of them at Walmart for like $1-2 bucks. They work well if you dont mind putting a nail in the floor.
Just run one along the wall above head level and hold it up using these things
thats what I did, not 200 feet though.
They have cable holders that do exactly this.
http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Clip-White-RG6-100-pieces/dp/B000I97FHY
I've always bought round cable, so I can't comment on the idea of flat network cables... for my cabling job, I still have more I'd like to do... so I bought a box of 500ft spool, cut to fit, and put on my own ends (ports or plugs)... works just fine as long as you copy the same color code for all the plugs/ports... for my project, my home is a single story structure, so I ran my cables in the attic, places where I wanted ports on an outside walls (have insulation), I put the ports in the ceiling and ran discrete cables down the wall... with inside walls (no insulation) I could drill a hole in the top plate and ran my cables down...
for your project, the cables that you show might be a good start... I can't comment on their longevity as I've never used them before... the clips are just like ones I've used before... for securing my cables in the attic, I used:
https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-MSG-501-Heavy-Duty-Professional/dp/B000MWTVJC/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1QIH80G10DBUH&keywords=cable+boss+staple+gun&qid=1558404419&s=gateway&sprefix=boss+staple+%2Caps%2C209&sr=8-2
on that same listing, you can see the staples... they secure the cable, but not crush or pinch it... that's the key... secure it, not too tight, a little loose, but firm in place...
I'm having a new house built and will be using these in the rafters to run my drops.
Gardner Bender Multi Cable Staple
Hope this helps.
If you have only a very small number of motorized blinds (I'd say four or less), then Hunter Douglas provides good options to wire them up. You can either install battery packs that need to be serviced every few months, or you can plug in a small power supply. Each of the power supplies can drive up to two blinds. But the extension wires that come with it cannot be longer than about 15ft, and they are not rated for in-wall installation. So, you'll have to deal with them probably being visible.
If you have lots of blinds, the wires look ugly, and you really don't want to take up a gazillion outlets. We have dual stacked blinds (mesh & black-out) in a few places. There clearly aren't enough power outlets to handle that.
Hunter Douglas for better or for worse runs their blinds on 18V -- and their tech support claims that the blinds are pretty sensitive to voltage fluctuations. This has a couple of awkward consequences. 18V power supplies are really unusual. Laptop power supplies would be perfect, but they are all 19V, which according to Hunter Douglas is not acceptable. And other common voltages are 12V or 15V, which are both noticeably too little.
Furthermore, the blinds have relatively high peak currents. Hunter Douglas told me to roughly assume that each blind can require up to about 10W. Took me forever to find a place that sells an 18V/180W power supply, as Hunter Douglas doesn't offer any solution themselves.
Of course, that's the raw circuit board only. You still need an enclosure. I went with a 12V enclosure and modded it. The enclosure is a great size, and you can even reuse the metal shield for the power supply, if you are careful. It also conveniently already comes with all the fuses that you'll need anyway. So, that saves you quite some work. But you do need some tinkering experience to swap out the circuit boards. You probably also need to order a couple of Molex connectors and you'll need to do some crimping and some soldering.
The next problem that you'll run into is that the enclosure needs a cooling fan, but as far as I can tell it is impossible to find 18V fans. I ended up using an ATTiny85 and a MOSFET to PWM the 18V so that I could safely drive the existing fan (make sure to configure the micro-controller for FastPWM, or you'll have to deal with an ugly humming noise!). And while at it, I also added a temperature sensor, so the fan only turns on, when needed. You also need a small DC-DC converter to power the microcontroller. And if you don't already have a way to program Atmel chips, you'll need to buy a programmer. EBay has lots of cheap options, too. All of this definitely takes some amount of tinkering skills that not everybody will have, though.
Overall, building a proper power supply and distribution box cost me just over $200 in parts. Not too bad. But the amount of time spent getting it to work was ridiculous. Especially if you add up all the time researching which parts I needed to buy in the first place. I really don't understand why Hunter Douglas couldn't sell ready-made power supplies for installing multiple PowerView blinds. Even if they charged $500 for the ready-made box, that wouldn't be entirely unreasonable -- and that would be a huge mark up and make them quite some profits. In bulk, each supply should cost less than $100 to manufacture.
The next problem is finding appropriate cables. At those low voltages, currents are going to be high, and if you have anything more than trivially short runs, you'll encounter significant voltage drops. Since Hunter Douglas said that sticking as close as possible to 18V is crucial, you'll inevitably have to install beefier wires. Hunter Douglas recommends 14AWG for powering up to two blinds, or 16AWG when powering a single blind. I had good luck with buying Monoprice in-wall speaker cable for this purpose. Get the four-conductor version to minimize the number of cables that you need to string.
Ideally, you want to avoid splicing the cables. And in many cases, if you plan carefully, you'll be able to do that just fine. But sometimes, splices are simply unavoidable (for instance, when joining 16AWG cables to an 14AWG cable). I find WAGO connectors work really well for this purpose; unlike wirenuts, they can be used both with and without ferrules. And they work well for stranded wires, where wirenuts sometimes fail.
The blinds have barrel connectors, and Hunter Douglas suggests buying plugs with screw connectors. That is a good suggestion in principle, but I find it is impossible to securely fasten the speaker cables in the screw connectors, unless you use ferrules. And that means, you'll also need to buy a crimping tool. And for good measure, you should probably shrink wrap the entire contraption afterwards. High currents means you want secure connections.
Ideally, you should run all the cables inside the walls. But that's not always possible. If you can't, then you'll need to staple them instead. Make sure to use the right staples. I asked my electrician to help in order to meet my schedule; in hindsight, that didn't work out so well. He sent me his apprentice, who promptly proceeded to run each and every staple straight through the cable. Ouch. We had to redo all the wiring.
Now, my next project is thinking of a solution to hide the Hunter Douglas remote inside of a Decora wall switch. The remote is OK, but it looks a little cheesy when wall-mounted. As I said before, PowerView blinds are fine in principle and they are probably better than most competing products, but they do feel a little unfinished at this time. When they do work though, they are really convenient.
Personally I'd just use a bunch of wire u-clips and put some spackle in the holes when I move out. It's a garage, that shouldn't be a big deal.
But if not, those command strips above are a good call.
And if you really don't want to attach anything to the ceiling, at least get one of these.
I would attach the cable to the shelves/wall using these to make sure it is straight and tidy, then tape or otherwise attach the leftover cable to the bottom of the bottom shelves. It would really neaten it up a lot.
When I was renting I used a lot of these with network cable that was also white so it didn't look terrible. If you nail them below the trim ling or at the bottom edge of the trim you won't have to putty/paint later. But powerline ethernet adapters are a pretty good option too.
Now moved into a new place and will be running Cat6 through the attic. If you have ceiling/floor access you could see if the landlord is interested in you wiring the place properly if you can make it look clean.
I'd also look at any closets that line up to run inside of them... if not we use something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-PCS-100B-Masonry-Coaxial/dp/B00A3HSEEY
If you have to use staples, I would reccomend one of these. I used to use them when I ran cable for my old job. Only way you'll accidentally ruin the cable with these is if you badly misalign it and send the staple straight through the cable.
Cable Boss Staple gun
Staples for CAT6
Personally never used them myself but I’ve seen them on here
Gardner Bender #MCS-20W 20PK Wood Stud Staple https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E7SL9A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_G7zSDbR05ZHM3
Those little hook and nail things are great for running a cable line long the wall and keeping it in place as well...
https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Cable-Clip-White-Pieces-200-961/dp/B000I97FHY
I was planning on using clips like these...I use these on my cable cords in 1-2 of my bedrooms... as long as I can find ones that are that large.
If the lag ONLY occurs when using wifi and never occurs while using ethernet (and you don't care about others' experiences), the best solution is to try to hard-wire as much as you can. Get tacks, run an ethernet cable (my walls are white so I use white) in a very tasteful way and make it look pretty.
https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Cable-Clip-White-Pieces-200-961/dp/B000I97FHY/
with that said, yeah, in the best of cases your wifi is set up so that you're never more than ~10 meters from a wireless access point and you have both 2.4 and 5GHz bands to choose from (wireless-b/g/n all work with 2.4GHz, wireless-a/n/ac work with 5GHz). Wifi will never be as good as hard wired though.
Cable Staples
Well the wire just need to be plugged into both end, how it get there does not matter to the wire but most people like to hide long wires.
The staple cannot go through the wire of course. I would use something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Cable-Clip-White-Pieces-200-961/dp/B000I97FHY
I have friend that just ran a plain old Cat6 Cable straight from the room that the router was in throw a window up into to his bedroom. The trouble was over time the tiny hole the window screen became a massive tear. You could also get some coax clips and pin that cable along the ceiling. I've done that for my home theater system because there was too much insolation in the walls to fish the cable.
could be something like this https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Cable-Clip-White-Pieces-200-961/dp/B000I97FHY
Under my couches I used the little nail-in coax cable clips. Not these ones specifically, but ones like that.
The wooden frame of the couch is hidden from view, and a couple of small nails in the wood won't hurt anything. When I took one out, you could barely tell that it had ever been in there, and that was when I was under the couch.
I see. So you are saying double sided tape didn't really work for you either? Maybe we would need to get something like this then
Haven't found it yet but I figure it'll be under the house so I'll be sure to let you know when I go on the excursion. I'm not sure what else it could be outside of that because everything else on the panel has no issues outside of it being old and messy(granted I would still like to get everything swapped out over time just because I feel like it's probably good to be safe and get it up to modern standards) but I'm absolutely open to any ideas to prevent worry in the future. One idea I thought it could have been before was maybe a pipe is leaking or weather somehow got to it but it's such a small spot I don't think that could be it. I'll drop some pictures in a little while of the box. I did already purchase the new outlet and the breaker just waiting on the wire to get here to start the party. I swapped out the breaker as my first idea because I was thinking it could have just been old but it wasn't the solution so here we are.
Another thing I was wondering was would there be any problem with just extra added safety grabbing a conduit tube to run it through under the house in case I do run in to any water/animal issues? Oh! Also almost forgot as for the staples. Do you think it could have been stapled too deep somewhere putting pressure on the wire? I was thinking I'd grab some of these instead of the usual ones:
https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-PS-175ZN-Non-Metalic-Polyethylene/dp/B000BQNBQ8/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=wire+staples&qid=1558347880&s=hi&sr=1-7
Any cons/pros to using that? I just want to be careful since this will be my first time doing this and want to make it as safe as possible.
standards we follow for certified installs are in a crawlspace under a building if there is 500mm (around 2 foot i guess?) clearance between the ground and the floor we can use indoor cabling.
as someone who runs into old installs all the time i have seen indoor cabling used in nasty ass wet environments and still running after 10 years or so.
i would say in your case used cable clips like this
http://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Cable-Clip-White-Pieces-200-961/dp/B000I97FHY
on indoor cat6, if theres a bit of slack make a coil and cable tie it gently onto the supported cable.