(Part 3) Best home brewing & wine making products according to redditors
We found 2,321 Reddit comments discussing the best home brewing & wine making products. We ranked the 888 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
You raise some good points, but your attitude sucks. Anyway, here are the answers you are looking for:
The comic is definitely vague; it ends with "let age", but knowing how to rack and age wine is an art all in itself!
TL;DR: If you know nothing about dandelion wine then this comic is a nice primer to which is actually a fairly simple process. It leaves out some details but you probably shouldn't be making wine from a comic's instructions to begin with.
Source: I make dandelion wine, so I guess you were right.
Fermentation crock like you make kraut or kimchi in.
Firstly, once oxygen has entered the bottle, the countdown is on until it goes stale. You can try to reduce the time exposed to oxygen, but short of recarbonating the bottle with more sugar and yeast, you're never getting the oxygen out.
Secondly, you're battling against losing CO2. The best bet to keep CO2 in solution is to keep the beer cold. Beer loses CO2 as it warms up. So pour your first glass, and then get the bottle back in the fridge ASAP.
Thirdly, and I have no science to back this up, I like to use a rubber cap to seal my bottle in the fridge. I figure this will physically block some of the CO2 from escaping, and reduce the oxygen getting in, but I honestly don't know if it works or it's just placebo. I've left half full bombers sit in my fridge for 3-4 days with a rubber cap with some solid success though.
Beer Saver Cap I'm talking about : https://www.amazon.ca/Beer-Savers-Silicone-Rubber-Bottle/dp/B003Z5GW0O
There are some things in your description that could be cause for concern. I'm going to address specific details in your post, and include a link at the end. Please make sure you read through the link at the end!
First, is your heat pad hooked up to a thermostat? If not, unplug it and do not use it until you have a thermostat. A thermostat is even more essential than a thermometer. An unregulated heat pad is dangerous. Do NOT use a heat pad without a thermostat, or you risk serious burns to your snake! Two inexpensive models are InkBird and Jumpstart/Hydrofarm.
Thermometers and humidity gauges are also very important. Ball Pythons have specific heat and humidity needs. They will reject food, get sick, or have bad sheds if their temperatures and humidity are not on-par. Don't wait on this! And don't waste your time on analog dials. Start with an inexpensive digital thermometer/hygrometer to make sure your conditions are accurately monitored.
Neither the "daytime" nor the "infrared" lights are really appropriate. Snakes can see the light from both. You want a bulb that can be left on overnight without bothering the snake. Plus ambient light from a window is usually enough unless your room is particularly dark. Ditch both of your current heat lights and get a single Ceramic Heat Emitter bulb instead. It emits heat, but no light, and can be left running 24/7. ALSO get a lamp dimmer for your heat lamp, so you can more specifically control its heat output.
Next, ball pythons really should have two hides, one on the hot side and one on the cool so they don't have to sacrifice feeling safe to thermoregulate. Please get a second hide!
Now, with those specifics addressed, I highly recommend you read the following link dump by _Ataraxia. She did a good job compiling the most common advice on this sub. Pay special attention to those care sheets - read them all the way through.
You'll likely find things about your current enclosure (like aspen, which has a tendency to mold and doesn't retain humidity well) aren't quite appropriate for proper ball python care. We're here to help you and provide recommendations to ensure the long, happy life of your new scaly friend.
Looks like the top two photos are in the open position, and the bottom is closed. Pushing down towards it closes the clip, pry the lever open to release tension. Describing this is hard.
Think about a bottle with this kind of top. Similar concept! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078JYNSCR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ev8jDbJ87MJPR
otherwise known as amber bottles I can buy at my local Sprouts, Natural Food Grocers, or any other place that sells patchouli.
Also available on Amazon if you don't feel like venturing out. https://www.amazon.com/32-Ounce-Kombucha-Growler-Polycone-Phenolic/dp/B0749ZWF1C?ref=ast_p_pc_rc
Or you could get this for $30.
http://www.amazon.com/Faucet-Chrome-Cornelius-Disconnect-Attached/dp/B003ZZRR3K
Get one of those 2-3 gallon jar/beverage dispensers with a spigot (make sure spigot is not metal, many look metal but aren't). It makes bottling so much easier. Also, a funnel. And some type of bottle with lid like this
I always suggest piece by piece. You get better stuff, and often you end up not throwing away some of the shit you will never use anyways.
I always suggest getting 6.5 gallon glass carboys locally (check Craigslist, I got 5 of them for 30 bucks a couple years ago,) you can put vacuum on them if you want to go that route (trust me you want to go that route) and they are completely nonporous so they don't get funky. If you get a carboy cleaner for a drill, it's a breeze to clean your carboys. For sanitizer, buy iodophor as it doesn't foam, and you use a TINY amount...like half the "dose" cup on the left side of this bottle for a 6 gallon carboy, and it lasts forever.
Start with beer bottles, only because it's cheaper to get into it. The Cappers are cheap and they work well. I have this same unit and I've probably capped at least 2000 beer bottles with it...and it's still in perfect condition. For caps ALWAYS get oxygen absorbing ones...they are like 1 cent each more than shitty ones...seriously don't buy cheap ones!
For beer bottles, get them at your local brew store, shipping kicks your ass on these.
If you want to do wine bottles...then you REALLY want a good corker but that will add some additional expense to your kit. Don't even look at the lever action corkers or the plunger corkers or the handheld compression corkers, they are all AWFUL.
For wine bottles...do yourself a favor and buy the ones that have both corks and screw caps like THESE again don't buy them from amazon...this is just a picture so you know what I mean...shipping nearly doubles the price of them...I get these for like 14 dollars a case locally.
For corks, buy good corks, amalgamated corks fall apart and lose their seal. I personally like Nomacorc, I buy their classic ones from my local brew store (again cheaper than amazon) which are good for 3-5 years. They just released a new NomaCorc bio line that are guaranteed for 15 years, but I can't find anywhere to get them yet...I did request a bag of samples though...
Beer Savers! I use them, they work. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003Z5GW0O?pc_redir=1413281083&robot_redir=1#
If you just want to circulate the water, buy a submergible pump. I've had more luck with models designed for high temp applications, like (food grade) hot oil, but regular water pumps will do the trick.
If you want to also control the temperature of the water, either buy a sous vide or look into an Inkbird cooler/heater like this. Then add a heating element or a hot plate.
For extract brewing, taking gravity readings is less important as you are guaranteed roughly the correct amount of sugars that the recipe plans for. It will mean you could theoretically run into a problem with a stalled/incomplete fermentation and not know it, but I have done dozens of extract batches without taking gravity readings and have never had it be an issue.
As far as priming, you can do one of three things:
https://www.amazon.com/Brewers-Elite-Hydrometer-Kombucha-Hardcase/dp/B01CITP03W/
https://www.amazon.com/3-Piece-Airlock-Qty-5/dp/B007HCHXKO
https://www.amazon.com/Brewmaster-Brewcraft-Homebrew-Primary-Fermenter/dp/B07HFDSJNK
^^^ that is cheaper locally.
https://www.amazon.com/beautyfamily-Carboy-Making-Bottling-Equipment/dp/B00WK09TVE
https://www.amazon.com/Home-Brew-Ohio-Fermenter-Capacity/dp/B00KQN9OSK
https://www.amazon.com/Fermtech-5478-6H-Auto-Siphon-Tubing-Clamp/dp/B00SDLLZDY/
^^ for 1 gal
https://www.amazon.com/Fermtech-Regular-Siphon-Tubing-clear/dp/B07FZ4484B
^^ for 5 gal
https://www.amazon.com/Spring-Loaded-Beer-Bottle-Filler/dp/B07JDFDXV9
https://www.amazon.com/Star-San-B0064O7YFA-San-32/dp/B0064O7YFA
>When I thought it was finished fermenting I bottled it.
"Nothing in this world can you trust. Not sight, not experience, not intuition... This you can trust." - Conan the Brewbarian
A bench capper is a nice upgrade and Amazon has few in the $38 range. Anything cheaper is probably going to be similar to the handheld red ones that are standard with most kits.
That's one way. Another is to use a Wine Thief: https://www.amazon.com/Fermtech-B0064O93RC-Wine-Thief-Clear/dp/B0722KD74Q
If you have to rack something (in my case it was mead) off of a lot of fruit, using one of these helps tremendously. Keep the top above the liquid and put the siphon inside the strainer. Never racked a melomel so easily.
Small amounts of pure hop terpenes added at packaging really do affect the flavor of a NEIPA.
If you're brewing two batches in a day make sure that yeast goes into each one...and not all the yeast into just one.
I'm not advocating such silliness, but here's an example: http://amzn.com/B003Z5GW0O
You'll want to get a sample out of the fermenter using your siphon and into the sample tube, or you could get a Sample Thief. Either way don't just drop the hydrometer into the fermenter. For one be hard to get back out :)
You don't need to check often. Everytime you open the fermenter you risk contamination. Instead wait for signs that fermentation has slowed (or stopped). The heady foam (Krausen) will have collapsed, or there aren't many bubbles in the beer.
Just make sure you sanitize anything you use to get the sample. And don't bother putting the sample back, might as well just drink it ;)
You are correct but I would like to point out that similarly styled hand corkers do exist. I have a similar one for my small batch meads and absolutely love it.
They're a bit of a pain if you're doing hundreds of bottles but perfect for a few cases. What I love most is the small size -- it fits in my brewing supply bin instead of taking up the room a stand-up corker does.
Amazon link
No worries of safety for the rust, but I'd definitely recommend a food grade ceramic fermentation crock for future ferments. They're not super expensive, they will literally last your lifetime (as long as you don't drop it). This is the one I use, has a built in water airlock (just keep it topped up every few days), its thick and heavy and opaque to prevent light damage. They also make a 10liter version for larger ferments! Good luck!
https://www.amazon.com/Learn-Brew-LLC-7H-EOH8-VCRW-Carboys/dp/B0064OED86/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468506553&sr=8-1&keywords=carboy+cap
Don't worry about rushing to finish it super quickly. I've been eating kimchi since I was itty bitty, and I actually prefer it as it gets more and more sour. Plus, if you ever want to cook with kimchi, sour is definitely what you want. You can make killer fried rice, stews with pork and tofu and potatoes, crispy, chewy pancakes... So many great options for cooking with kimchi, but fresh just won't do for these kinds of things.
I tend to make my kimchi in really large quantities given that I live in a household of only two, and I am a Korean married to a very white man (he likes kimchi, too, but he'll never eat as much of it as me). I usually pack most of it into my giant kimchi container (like this, but taller: https://www.amazon.com/Crazy-Korean-Cooking-Sauerkraut-Fermentation/dp/B00M40ANMO ) and then I pack the rest into quart sized mason jars, usually 2-3 of them. The big boy goes into the far back of the fridge where it's coldest, and I forget about it until all the jars are empty. I leave the jars out to jump start the fermentation. A couple days later I have my choice of sour level. If I want super fresh tasting kimchi just for eating, I can always raid the big boy hiding out in my fridge. For most of my meals/cooking, I pull from the jars. Once all the jars are empty, I'll fill one jar from the big boy with kimchi that I can keep more easily accessible.
If you’re not carbonating, then a cheap handcorker will do. It can be a pain to cork a lot of bottles though.
Beer bottles with bottle caps and capper are easier.
I've made some slight modifications to this, mostly to make it easier to follow. I've also included steps that should be quite obvious to someone who's done any homebrewing before, but I wish someone had told me when I first started.
I'd link to the original, for the sake of attribution, but the user who posted this deleted their account not long after I wrote everything down.
This will produce a sweet fruit-mead (or melomel). WARNING this will be far more alcoholic than it tastes, and should not be consumed if you've recently taken antibiotics, or suffered gastric distress, as the yeast culture will still be alive, and will happily colonize your intestines if your gut microbiome is too fucked up.
Equipment: Most of this stuff will be a good deal cheaper at your local homebrew store, but I've included amazon links (also to the yeast).
At least 2 (3 is better, for reasons we'll get to) 1-gallon jugs (I don't recommend scaling this up), glass preferred. Add an extra jug for each additional batch. This one includes a drilled stopper and airlock
Drilled stoppers (or carboy bungs) and airlocks, non-drilled rubber stoppers.
An autosiphon and food-safe tubing.
Food-safe sanitizing solution (I recommend StarSan).
An electric kettle with temperature selector is useful, but not needed.
If you want to bottle it rather than just keeping a jug in your fridge:
Empty beer or wine bottles (just save your empties), capping or corking equipment, caps or corks, and a bottling wand.
Ingredients:
2.5 lbs (1130g) honey, clover recommended.
A cup (approximately 250ml) or so of fruit (I recommend blackberries, and I strongly recommend against cherries, other recipes have worked for me, but this yields a very medical flavor with cherries).
1 packet Lalvin EC-1118 yeast (a champagne yeast notable for its hardiness, its ability to out-compete other microorganisms, and its high alcohol tolerance).
Optional: potassium sorbate (to reduce yeast activity when our ferment is done), pectic enzyme (aka pectinase - for aesthetic purposes). Both are also available in bulk.
Process:
Day 1:
Mix sanitizing solution with clean water at specified proportions in one of your jugs, filling the jug most of the way. Stopper it, shake it. Remove stopper, set it down wet-side-up (to keep it sterile), pour the fluid to another jug. There will be foam left behind, this is fine, don't bother to rinse it or anything. At low concentrations this stuff is totally fine to drink, and won't ruin your fermentation or flavor.
Add honey to jug, all of it.
If you have a kettle, and your jug is glass, heat water to around 160F (71 Celsius), pour a volume into your jug roughly equal to the amount of honey present. Fix sterile stopper to jug. Shake until honey and water are thoroughly combined. The heat will make it FAR easier to dissolve the honey. Set aside for an hour or so while it cools. Add clean water 'til mostly full, leaving some room for fruit and headspace.
If you're missing a kettle, or using a plastic jug, this is gonna be a little harder. Fill most of the way with clean water (I recommend using a filter) leaving some room for fruit and headspace. Fix sterile stopper, shake 'til honey and water are thoroughly combined. This will take a while, and you will need to shake VERY vigorously.
At this point, you should have a jug mostly-full of combined honey and water. To this, add fruit (inspecting thoroughly for mold, don't want to add that). Then dump in a single packet of the Lalvin EC-1118 yeast, don't bother rehydrating it first or anything, it'll be fine going straight in. Add pectic enzyme if you have it (this does nothing to the flavor, it just makes the end product less cloudy). Stopper it up, shake it again. This jug now contains your "must" (pre-ferment mead).
Pour some sterilizing fluid in a bowl, put a carboy bung/drilled stopper in the bowl, with an airlock. Ensure full immersion. Let sit for a minute. Replace stopper with your bung/drilled stopper, affix airlock. Fill airlock with clean water, sanitizing fluid, or vodka. Rinse the stopper, fix it to your jug of sanitizing fluid.
Place must-jug in a dark place, I recommend a cabinet or closet.
Days 2-7:
Retrieve jug, give it a little jostle. Nothing so vigorous as to get your mead into the airlock, but enough to upset it. This is to release CO2 buildup, and to keep any part of the fruit from drying out. The foaming from the CO2 release may be very vigorous. Do this over a towel for your first batch. If the foam gets into your airlock, clean your airlock and reaffix it. Perform this jostling procedure at least once per day, more is better.
Day 8:
Final jostling, I recommend doing this in the morning.
Day 9:
let it sit, we want the sediment to settle.
Day 10: Time to get it off the sediment
Shake sterilizing fluid jug. Affix tubing to siphon. Put the siphon in the sterilizing fluid, shake the jug a little just to get the whole siphon wet. Siphon fluid into either a third container or a large bowl. This is all to sterilize both the inside and outside of your siphoning system.
Remove siphon from jug. Give it a couple pumps to empty it of any remaining fluid. Place siphon in your mead jug, leaving the end of the tubing in sterilizing fluid while you do this.
Take the jug that you just siphoned the sterilizing fluid from. Dump what fluid remains in it. Place the end of the tubing in this jug, then siphon the mead into it. Make no attempt to get the last bit of mead into your fresh container, it's mostly dead yeast and decomposing fruit.
Add potassium sorbate if you have it, stopper the jug, place it in your fridge.
Clean the jug you started in. Clean your siphon and tubing.
Day 11:
Let it sit
Day 12 or later: time to transfer again, or bottle it.
If you no longer have a jug full of sterilizing fluid, make one.
Repeat the earlier steps to sterilize the siphoning system, with a bottling wand attached to the end of the tubing if you want to bottle.
Sterilize your bottles or a clean jug, either with fluid or heat.
Siphon mead either into your bottles or jug. Stopper/cap/cork when done.
Put your jug/bottles in the fridge.
The yeast culture is still alive, and will continue to ferment. The fridge, and optional potassium sorbate, will merely slow this down. I recommend drinking any bottles within two months, to avoid a risk of bursting bottles. The mead should already be tasty at this point, but usually tastes much better after a couple more weeks.
EDIT: Fixed the formatting up a bit.
If your looking into upgrading to stainless to avoid plastic I would suggest a Chapman stainless bucket fermenter. They don't have all the bells and whistles of an SS brewtech bucket, but the price is more forgiving.
Amazon link
I have this and it works fine. Only issue with a 3 gallon carboy is that you might not get enough liquid to float the hydrometer. If you're dead set on a giant turkey baster, use that as your diameter.
> Also, thoughts on returning hydrometer samples to the fermenter?
As long as everything is sanitized, you should be fine. If you're cautious/curious, pour it into a glass and sample the half finished wine to see what it tastes like at all parts of the process.
i'd guess you priming caps
https://www.amazon.com/Brewers-Best-Conditioning-Tablets-Count/dp/B006O2D9RE/
Wine thief
I can't say anything as to the strength of the swing tops. But they certainly look good and are perfect for bottling. However, you'll have to make/drink a lot of mocktails before you have enough bottles. I bought these on Amazon and they work great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0064ODUDK
Quicker way to the bottles. Unless you were going to buy a bunch of those mocktail things anyway. :-)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0064OED86/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JG77G8M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Just finished my first sauerkraut batch in the TSM crock, it turned out great :)
One of this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KTJXOBO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0041F2DL4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I found these grommets and airlocks are bigger than the ones I got from my lhbs.
I used this one before moving to a room controller. If money is tight this looks like a good unit.
Two weeks is a little quick; I find it usually takes 3 and sometimes 4 weeks for full carbonation to develop.
So,
First, let your bottles sit is 65-75F environment for another two weeks and see if it doesn't improve.
Second, if they are the same after two weeks, consider using Conditioning Tablets. Because you have some carbonation, you don't want to get the big ones designed for full carbonation of a 12 oz beer, but the ones I have linked to, which use from 3 to 5 depending on carbonation level desired. You can remove the caps, drop in a one or two tablets, and recap. Wait another two or three weeks and see if that doesn't do it for you.
Finally, don't pour the sugar directly into your beer, but, rather, dissolve it in about a cup of water and boil it to be sure it is all dissolved. No need to cool, you can pour this directly into your beer as the volume of beer is so much greater than the boiling sugar solution, it won't hurt anything. I typically will pour my boiled sugar solution into a bottling bucket and siphon my beer on top of it to be sure the sugar mixes well. You may have to give your beer a gentle stir with a sanitized spoon to make sure they sugar is well distributed throughout the beer before you start to bottle.
An old trick I heard of years ago was to bottle one or two beers in clean and sanitized soda bottles (they also make brown 16 oz PET bottles for this purpose). As the beer carbonates, the bottle will get hard, and you can better judge the carbonation level as time progresses.
I'm using this fermentation container.
Is the whole thing still good for consumption or do I have to throw this batch out?
Considering ditching my glass carboys in favor of this stainless bucket. Any thoughts?
Chapman 7 gallon Stainless Steel Fermenter
Edit: I do 5 gallon batches
the instructions for the unicolor develop kit requires 1000ml and the amber bottles i purchased limit at 950ml, should i be fine or purchase bigger bottles?
Don't know if this qualifies as a 'hack', but it made my life a hell of a lot easier, so here we are:
I can't say this emphatically enough: Get a bench capper
I'm serious, If you bottle your beer, don't be messing around with that twin lever bullshit, slipping and breaking bottle necks.
Just buy a bench capper (aka single lever capper). They are costlier, but I swear, it is still the best brewing investment I have ever made.
Here's a six pack for $8.50. I must have gotten mine on a really great deal, it was a third party seller, but this is still pretty cheap. And Prime eligible.
I just drilled holes in some plastic mason jar lids, and sealed it with some caulk. Rubber gasket would probably be better, but I worked with what I had.
Maybe something like this?
Otherwise I don't think a faucet would be easy to hold and pour with one hand. Even if you could figure that out, idk how you could figure out how to attach the beer line to the faucet w/o the shank. The headache, to me, wouldn't be worth the 10/15 bucks.
145w or LED will generate about as much heat as 145w of HPS. Stick with the HPS.
To get cooling under control, you'll need to post details. Or, better, pics. 600w isn't a lot in a 4x4. Lots of people do it.
Without details, look at a CoolTube style hood on it's own ducting circuit--pulling air from outside, through the cooltube, then straight back outside using a 6" duct fan. That gets rid of most of your heat, versus a bare bulb/wing setup.
Then get a decent 6" inline fan as your main exhaust for the tent. Run this through a programmable thermostat, so it's only kicking on when you tell it to (on at 75 degrees, off at 72, for example). A fan speed controller for the inline is useful, to limit noise and the rate at which you are pulling all the humidity out of your tent. But not strictly necessary if you have the thermostat.
Both ducting circuits (one for the CoolTube, one for the Tent) should be vented outside. Or at least outside the room.
I know that adds a bunch of cost. You can go cheap on the CoolTube, ducting, and duct fan. Don't go cheap on the inline. Having proper ventilation (and, IMO, a programmable thermostat) is essential to be able to run, well, in all seasons. You have a good tent/light pairing. Get the ventilation right, and you can dial in your environment. That's 80% of the battle.
I just use a madolin cutter on some cabbage, sprinkled with salt, twisted and mashed, and repeated until all my cabbage was salted and in my pot. Then I covered with water and put a plate on top to keep it submerged. They actually sell some nice stone vessels to use for this with weights that fit them perfectly. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JG77G8M You can also get weights that are meant to fit mason jars perfectly.
yep. hated it.
Buy a bench capper. you wont be disappointed that you did. You can probably find it for cheaper if you shop around. I got mine for free in a package deal on craigslist.
Usable desktop link for the same product.
(this should be a bot)
To piggy back on u/stormbeforedawn's comment.
This is the equipment I used that I've had good luck with so far. It's what he recommended, I'm just providing links to the specific product I used.
Without knowing where you are in the world, it's tough to recommend specific places to buy things.
I do want to point out a couple of things, however:
For a digital thermostat, I highly recommend the Inkbird ITC-306T.
I use clear flip top bottles like these. Add a speed pourer for precision, and you're good to go. Of course the later is optional.
http://www.amazon.com/CASE-OF-12-Bottles-CLEAR/dp/B0064ODUDK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1412296599&sr=8-2&keywords=flip+top+bottles
or for larger batches
http://www.amazon.com/Bormioli-Rocco-Giara-Bottle-Stopper/dp/B003QZPY6Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1412296599&sr=8-3&keywords=flip+top+bottles
I haven't used coconut in a tincture, so I can't speak to if that is preferable option to what you have.
I have added coconut to the fermenter in a dry hopper to good results. I would suggest using something like that or the muslin bag, because the shredded coconut can very easily clog siphon lines and keg post, which are always a pain to clear. And it unfortunately takes only one little shred to do that.
I recently did a toasted coconut porter and "dry hopped" 12 oz. in the fermenter for over a week and then used the dry hopper I referenced earlier with an additonal 12oz. in the keg itself. Definitely came out coconuty but was well balanced with the porter itself, so wasn't like drinking coconut milk or anything. It did seem to hurt head retention at first, but as I drank through the keg, that seemed to clear up a bit.
I use these plastic kimchi fermenters and they work perfectly! Well worth the money, imo. Have two with pickles and two with kraut at the moment.
Or, if you have enough containers, simply transfer it into containers of the correct size. It's not really the 'headspace' that we're worried about, or that has any effect on the amount of oxygenation. It's the surface area that is touching gas. Another simple solution, if you're sure you're done fermenting, is just to seal your fermenter with something like this.
Surely! I have 6-gal plastic carboys. I currently have a carboy cap that has a racking cane and a filter on the other end. The end of my racking cane tubing is attached directly to a barbed disconnect on the liquid post. I still use gravity but I get the siphon going by blowing through the filtered end of the carboy cap. I actually am purchasing this today to replace the filter so I can use pure CO2 to push the beer from my carboy. Just know if you use CO2 to push the beer from the carboy to keg that you need to keep the pressure very low as the carboys are nor pressure retaining vessels.
I have to give credit where credit is due though. I built this after seeing /u/brulosopher 's kegging method
Those are EZ Cap brand 16oz flip-top bottles. You can find them here:
http://amazon.com/dp/B0064ODUDK/
But I recommend getting them at your local brewing supply store. They were only $25 bucks for a case of 12 at my local shop.
Side note: If you do use an airlock for long term, get this type....
https://www.amazon.com/Twin-Bubble-Airlock-Carboy-Bung/dp/B00A6TRKO4/
versus this type....
https://www.amazon.com/Home-Brewing-Supplies-48-9AJX-W965-Econolock-6pk/dp/B0041F2DL4/
I currently have six carboys on the rack coming up on 12 months and they all have the first type of airlock with the double chamber. At most I have lost 5mm of water over that period. I use a sharpie to mark a line so I can see if they are evaporating. With the second type of airlock, I can't go three months before having to add water. They also have a tendency to open a pathway for air to get to the wine while looking like they are okay for fill level.
Lids: White Plastic Standard Mason Jar... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017IT8U2U?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Airlock: Home Brewing Supplies... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041F2DL4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Grommets: Home Brew Ohio black Replacement... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0149K5RZY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I personally would use a moonshine still or an air still
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BWUJKHG/
I have one and solar for house so still able to use it if power goes out
https://milehidistilling.com/product/econ-8-gallon-with-traditional-pot-still-head/
Get some EZ-Cap bottles from your local homebrew supply or Amazon and print your own labels.
Bottle size: 12 or 16 oz
I use a keg instead of a bottling bucket. Siphon beer into keg, prime with sugar, fill bottles. At 5 psi the kegs works better than a gravity bucket.
Fill 6 or so, then cap. Bottling is much better with a friend. One person to fill, the other to cap. Standard caps only.
No gloves.
Pro-tip: get a decent bench capper. Woah - when I bought one the price was only $30. This really is the king of cappers.
I like to use Amber bottles. I just think they look super cool. But they also keep UV light away from the chemicals.
32-Ounce Amber Kombucha Growler Bottles (4-Pack); 1 Quart Boston Round Glass Bottles w/ 6 Polycone Phenolic Lids for Home Brewing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0749ZWF1C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gXFTDbK31SN6T
My brother is getting married in October (which is good news by itself) and because he and his fiancée want more than the 6 people City Hall allows to attend, I GET TO MARRY THEM! I have been ordained through Universal Life Church (the real one, not the fake one) since March 2006 and I finally get to marry someone! I put in my minister profile that I'll only do same-sex weddings, but I made an exception because, well, it's my brother.
Hooray!
(if you're taking suggestions, I'd go for the beer savers, but I'm fine with a surprise!)
Thanks for the contest!
These grab liquid from the bottom, so should work in your setup:
https://www.amazon.com/Fermtech-B0064O93RC-Wine-Thief-Clear/dp/B0722KD74Q
This thing was pretty recently on sale for ~$85
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZYQRLSS/ref=sspa_mw_detail_3?psc=1
Ha nvm! I'm gonna spend the money on dual-body three gauge regulator for my keezer instead :-P
And I'll get this for beer dispensing
I bought these off Amazon and have had no issues whatsoever with them: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078JYNSCR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's not a perlick, but I found this on amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ZZRR3K/ref=pd_aw_sim_79_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41BFBUX9KcL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C100_&refRID=0CF56R1NTYF00TJ9ADEY
Yes, I have the CHE connected to a dedicated thermostat for the tank. This is the specific one I have https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FTQ669S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I don't rely on the lighting for heat (my basking is a low 25W bulb) but on the CHE.
I got this one a few months ago and have been more than happy with it. Think I got it for around 40 bucks.
This woman's kimchi is super spicy. I only used 1.5 cups of hot peppers. Anyway, I've gotten used to how hot it is and find myself craving it. I eat 2 tablespoons of it with every plate. And I drink kefir milk or kefir water. Kombucha sometimes, but that takes 2 weeks to get good. The kefirs take 2 days and are pretty strong.
I mention kefir because if you make milk kefir in a Fido jar for say a day and a half at room temperature. The curds and whey will separate and you strain that whey into a jar with either olives, baby cucumbers, hardboiled eggs and beet juice, asparagus, cabbage (kimchi and sourkrout), pear onions, salsa, Brussels sprouts, garlic, and I'm sure more. You use the curds you made with the milk kefir grains to make fermented hard cheeses, yogurt (awesome for ball jar parfaits, cream cheese,
If you want to get really crazy you can buy a 5\8" glass drill bit off amazon for 6 dollars. Drill holes in the lids. Use either rubber grommets or a drilled airlock grommet and airlocks to let the CO2 buildup release without letting fresh air back in. The company that makes and sells them call them Pickl-It jarsImage. They look identical to what you can make for much cheaper. This isn't necessary but it costs about 5 bucks to do to each jar and the result is that you now have a 40 - 120 dollar fermentation crock.
Buy this jar: http://www.crateandbarrel.com/fido-5-liter-jar-with-clamp-lid/s495151?a=1552&device=c&network=g&matchtype=&gclid=CJ7Whp7ZkroCFabm7AodOmkAHQ
Or at surlatable if you want more than 1 jar, and want 1.5 liters like the legit picklits. I found 3 liter Fido jars at hobby lobby for $5 each. I suppose just look for clamped glass jars with italy stamped on the bottom, not china.
The dehydrated food you weigh after and portion out into serving sizes. If I'm packing them as a lunch I separate atleast the meat from fruits and vegetables. Match each serving of meat with what used to be one or two cups of kale. A solid ammount of tomato chips and mango, peaches, apples or banana leathers. (Go easy on the mango) Blend and fruit rollup your berries. I'm not a nut and grain person, but a granola bar probably wouldn't be bad in there. I suppose you could stuff all these bags into a food saver bag and have like a cheap, fresh and healthy MRE all set and ready. No cooking required. I'm not sure how long the meat would last. So I wouldn't let it sit too long. Plus make sure your jerky sits in a brown paper bag for a few days first. To draw out any more moisture before vacuum sealing it.
this is the thermostat i have. i chose thise one because i use 2 CHE lamps and this thermostat will let me use both, some only have a single plug
I used one of these for my last batch that I bottled yesterday and it worked very well to keep the fermenter trub to a minimum, and it also allowed the hops to be fully submerged, introducing all that wonderful hop oil to the fermenting wort.
Hops will introduce DO to the fermenting wort, so it's important to dry hop at high krausen so the yeast has plenty of opportunity to push that oxygen out. I imagine you're adding dry hops too late to the party, so there's increased DO in the fermenter and the fermentation has slowed to the point where the DO is sticking around too long.
I almost always dry hop on day 2 or 3 at the very latest, and found that there was more oxidation to my NEIPAs when I did a second dry hop at day 7 or so, so I've just started chucking all of my dry hops in at once to minimize the amount of oxygen I'm introducing.
You need a two stage Inkbird temp controller (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FTNL4DE/ref=asc_df_B01A6UZQX45379116/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B01A6UZQX4&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167130986292&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7187178485843403005&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9002216&hvtargid=pla-308523201570&th=1)
You need something to keep it cool (typically a fridge)
You need something to warm it up (I like this DIY set up http://www.brewstands.com/fermentation-heater.html)
You can use the thermowell but it isn't needed (tape the probe to the side of your fermentor and wrap bubble wrap around it for insulation. This will read the wort temp within 1°F.
You plug the Inkbird into the wall outlet. You plug the fridge in the cooling plug of the Inkbird. You plug the paint bucket lamp heater (or your heater of choice) into the heating plug of the Inkbird. Then you need to set your perimeters. I haven't used an Inkbird so I'm not 100% on what they are. Typically you will have set temp, temp differential (how far of a swing in temp you will allow), and compressor delay (this sets time in minutes the minimum wait time to turn the fridge on, this is used so it doesn't turn the compressor on and off frequently and wear it down).
After dry hopping with my hop sock and realizing I can't get the knot undone to re-use it, I've decided to get one of the metal hop spiders like this one. only question I have is that they all seem to have those big holes at the top (like a salt shaker), don't they defeat the purpose of the fine mesh? Do I need to tie this kind of hop spider to the lid of my fermenter to keep it from falling over, because that seems unnecessary when it could just have a solid top
Get a couple of stainless steel 1 gallon growlers with a tap and CO2 adapter. I have 2 of the growlers and one dispensing cap between them, so it's like a tiny Brite tank. Sure beats bottling.
There are sauerkraut recipes all over the internet, and it is one of the easiest things to ferment. Chop (or shred) cabbage, add salt, and wait. I also add caraway seeds. I think one of the most important parts to making sauerkraut is to make sure you have a nice crock. I used this one. Homemade sauerkraut is so good you can eat it like salad.
I just ordered one of these for $85 shipped. https://www.amazon.com/Chapman-Gallon-Stainless-Fermenter-Portless/dp/B01HIZF4SW/ref=pd_lutyp_simh_1_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=41zBI3z1arL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_SL500_SR101%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=9SRV8ZGFM55V56D6WPH5
You could check out one of these
I mean, I'd waste 37 bucks on this one just to see how it goes...but that's just me.
Is this not roughly the same thing, but sold as a package deal (I'd just need to buy c02 cans) https://www.amazon.com/HAVEGET-Pressurized-Dispenser-Adjustable-Regulator/dp/B06ZYQRLSS/
This green one works awesome on my reef tank.
Amazon has them
Inkbird controller, I bought one from Amazon.https://www.amazon.com/Fathers-Day-Gifts-Temperature-Controller/dp/B01FTNL4DE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464848450&sr=8-1&keywords=father%27s+gift+ITC308
$22 for 4 of these! Here is the link :)
32-Ounce Amber Kombucha Growler... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0749ZWF1C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Rather than sending it off, you can get a pretty good estimate of the alcohol yourself with a cheap hygrometer. The one that I use cost ~$15. You can get them at a homebrew store, or else online at Amazon among others (for example, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CITP03W). It won't be anywhere near as accurate as a lab, but it should get you in the ~+/- 0.5% ABV range and just takes a minute or so.
Most non Asian grocery stores tend to not sell their kimchi heavily fermented. The kimchi boxes work for any ferment for what it's worth. They look like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M40ANMO
10 dollar wine thief worth every penny
Fermtech Wine Thief, Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0722KD74Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Y28EAb5VPF4TK
Just items like these:
$103 - 1 Gal Keg Kit with Regulator and Tap
$45 - Additional 1 Gal Keg
$43 - An alternative adaptor that requires an external tank and regulator
I have 7 and 14 gallon Chapman fermenters and really like them... especially the newer models at this price point! https://www.amazon.com/Chapman-Gallon-Stainless-Fermenter-Portless/dp/B01HIZF4SW?ref_=mw_olp_product_details
I got one of these a few months ago http://www.amazon.com/Super-Agata-Bench-Bottle-Capper/dp/B000Q638P2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1415486973&sr=8-5&keywords=bottle+capper and it makes the bottling process SO much easier. Its worth every dollar.
Even with that, though, I'm seriously tired of bottling. I'm seriously considering switching to kegs.
>in day 3-4 and then closed transfer to a keg with 3oz loose in the keg
Personally I do mine on day 1 or 2, at high krausen. As for loose, save yourself the hassle of clogged posts and get something like this for keg hopping. Works great. I've never had grassy/off flavors doing this, and I tend to take a solid month or two to kill a keg.
https://www.amazon.com/TSM-Products-31060-Fermentation-Harvest/dp/B00JG77G8M
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https://www.amazon.com/Gardeners-Supply-Company-5-Gallon-Stoneware/dp/B002P4RISG
I made a book-length comment a while ago on here, lemme copy-paste it. This was for carboy-keg, but it's a similar idea. Just get creative about it ;)
"Sorry about the late reply, but here it goes.
Since you have a glass carboy and a siphon, I think you have 2 options: pressurized transfer and unpressurized (read: gravity) transfer.
First is pressurized, which is what I did. When I was doing research when I first did it, a lot of people used caps like these. Basically, they would use the large hole to put the siphon in, and the smaller hole to connect to the gas. The Gas connection should be easier with the cap.
To connect the gas, turn the regulator down to about 1 psi. be careful not to go too high, since the glass carboy can explode with pressure, so I wouldn't go higher than 1 psi. Close the tank once it's set, and disconnect the gas manifold from the regulator. This tube should go on the smaller hole on the cap, but again, this isn't how I did it so your mileage may vary. make sure you use a hose clamp and clamp it down tight too, because you don't want your CO2 to leak out. Essentially, this will push the beer from the top, down through the siphon, out the top of the cap, and down into the keg.
The siphon should fit down the cap, but if it doesn't you should be able to use a silicone tube that's the same OUTER diameter as the holes INNER diameter. The siphon hose will connect to the beer side of the keg -- or the side of the keg that normally dispenses the beer. In my case, the actual connector was clamped shut in such a way that I couldn't remove it, so instead I removed my faucet head and connected the 2 tubes. Either use a tube union like this one or jerry-rig something up. Make sure to use more hose clamps, because otherwise you'll have beer leaking all over which is no bueno.
At this point you should have a connection from the gas to the carboy and from the carboy to the keg. The last thing to do is know how to vent the keg. I have pin lock kegs without the pull-tab relief valve, so I stick a screwdriver into the unused connector to open it, allowing it to vent the gas that is being displaced by the incoming beer. On ball-lock kegs, they usually feature a nice pull-ring valve on the lid that can be pulled to release the pressure. Either way, you will need to release the pressure regularly during the process or else the pressure will equalize and the beer will stop flowing.
At this point, you should be able to start. Make sure all of the connections are tight, the connector is plugged into the keg, and you can vent the pressure. Open the CO2 tank valve, and make sure the regulator is still at a light 1psi or lower. The pressure of the gas will force the beer up into the siphon and down into the beer line, filling the keg from the bottom. This forces the gas out through the top of the keg, which is where you release the pressure that builds up as it equalizes.
Once it's done filling, turn off the CO2 tank and disconnect all of the tubes, and you have a full keg of beer!
The gravity version (which I haven't done) is basically the entire thing, but the carboy needs to be higher than the keg, and instead of a CO2 connection there . . .nothing. This obviously exposes some of the beer to the air, which is not good, but it probably is a lot less likely to explode. "
Just run the vodka through one of these, you'll get your high proof. Seriously though, it should be fine at 30%.
Get some swing-top bottles if you want to be classy.
If you have amazon prime then get a gallon of juice $9 and not only do you get the juice but a 1 gallon glass jug. Buy a airlock and a hydrometer
These are the ones I bought and they’re perfect - Bellemain Swing Top Grolsch Glass Bottles 16oz - CLEAR - For Brewing Kombucha Kefir Beer (6 Set) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078JYNSCR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_N9Q1CbK58REDZ
https://www.amazon.com/Still-Spirits-Turbo-Air/dp/B00BWUJKHG this is cheaper option what is your opinion on it, one day I will get a $500+ one but right now I am starting so I can't justify spending $500 on something I am just figuring out.
Looking into cask condition homebrew. Thinking of trying a beer faucet to dispense, but unsure of a good way to vent.
Any experience in this? Tips and tricks?
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Pre-Wired-Temperature-Controller-Homebrewing/dp/B01FTNL4DE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496347998&sr=8-2&keywords=itc+308
Local brew shop. They're ez-cap bottles: https://www.amazon.com/CASE-12-Beer-Bottles-CLEAR/dp/B0064ODUDK
So I was looking at a non explody & maintenance method such as:
https://www.amazon.com/Still-Spirits-Turbo-Air/dp/B00BWUJKHG/ref=sr_1_5?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1537031471&sr=1-5&keywords=still
Which I feel could be used to extract out some of the alchohol when it is mixed with cannabis, but it pulls a very low ABV. Thoughts?
There's a million of them.
something like this:
https://smile.amazon.com/Brewers-Elite-Hydrometer-Kombucha-Hardcase/dp/B01CITP03W
I’d recommend something like this to put the peaches in. You should also keep then in through fermentation. I’d also start with 3 lbs for a 5 gallon batch.
Do you use OneStep to clean your bottles? I noticed I was only getting a metallic off flavor when using OneStep as my cleaner/sanitizer.
**Edit: For one batch you could try using conditioning tablets instead of bottling from a bottling bucket. That further reduces the chances of oxidation, as you'll be bottling straight from your fermenter.
I use these:https://www.amazon.com/Brewers-Best-Conditioning-Tablets-Count/dp/B006O2D9RE
3- Low carbonation
4-Medium Carbonation
5-High Carbonation
I used Amazon Prime
Can I use something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Ferrari-Portugese-Double-Lever-Corker/dp/B000FRWJNE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482378735&sr=8-1&keywords=corker
These.
https://www.amazon.ca/Beer-Savers-Silicone-Rubber-Bottle/dp/B003Z5GW0O
Don't have these exact ones cause I got some for free at an event but they actually seal really well and hold a fair bit of pressure! Beer always tastes fine the next day when bottle was half empty or less.
The first item u posted costs $335.... is there a cheaper alternative? Also can u link to any specific guide on how to do this? I'm very interested since you make it sound so easy, but I don't have much money to start a whole mini distillery (obvi, since i made this post about how im broke lol)
edit: is this the same thing? https://www.amazon.com/Still-Spirits-Turbo-Air/dp/B00BWUJKHG
Just pop the caps, put in the carbonation tablets and cap them again. Its no big deal, just a little extra time. These are the easiest things to use. https://www.amazon.com/Brewers-Best-Conditioning-Tablets-Count/dp/B006O2D9RE
Cool, coots recipe it is.
The recipe in the sidebar specifically mentioned horse manure compost, so I'd imagine it would be fine, though hearing from others would be reassuring too. I'll do some more research though.
> fermenting lids
> > $29.99
holy shit that's highway robbery. Maybe I'm missing something, but those seem to do the same thing as homebrewing airlocks. With these grommets and these airlocks you'd be able to make 5 of those for about 15 bucks. Regardless, thanks for the advice, since cleaning up fermented plant material and broken glass doesn't sound very fun. Any ferments (or top dressing additions, etc.) you're particularly fond of?
As far as the LEDs go, I'm thinking of building 2 light assemblies, each with 2 BXRC-30E10K0-D-73 and 2 BXRC-40E10K0-D-73. That would mean 2 3000K and 2 4000K chips per assembly. Those chips drop 37.2V at 1400 mA, so I'd run them on a HLG-185-C-1400b and add a potentiometer to let me dim the driver down to ~1000mA, which would give me a range of 38-52W per chip. I think that gives me a lot more flexibility than a single monolithic light.
I've gone through a lot of iterations of my planned LED setup lol. If you'd have asked me two days ago I'd have said cxb3590s all the way, but 25 bucks a COB from digikey seems like a pretty solid deal. I haven't even checked kingbrite yet.
Your response was super helpful, much appreciated!
Sounds about right, I get 1 gal/hr on my electric stove.
I use these ones, they're tiny so you can adjust based on desired carbonation. Just reading now they have some bad reviews, not sure how these people are messing it up, it's basically just pressed sugar lol.
Haha thanks! It's just one of these caps with a regular airlock in the middle hole. It was only a couple bucks at my local homebrew store.
From you list I totally NEED this [beer cap] (http://www.amazon.com/Beer-Savers-Silicone-Rubber-Bottle/dp/B003Z5GW0O/ref=wl_it_dp_v_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=1XNII0MJPVPJU&coliid=I15PGW3OQT1IE) I'm never finishing my beers.
[This] (http://www.stupidpuppyhead.com/womensfullscreen.html) shirt is hilarious
Most importantly, Happy Birthday Kramdiw !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (was that enough !?)
Definitely not on sale now. Keep an eye on it. I had it droplisted, and was notified when it was a deal of the day.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZYQRLSS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_KPAbBb0R7BF17
I can't find the specific ones I bought, but anything like these should work:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0749ZWF1C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8
You might be able to find them for cheaper on Ebay/Craigslist or random stores in-person if you have any nearby.
Thanks for the response,
I will pick up some Star San for the next batch.
​
For your measuring question. Do you mean when adding the Water/Honey? I used a scale. Similarly TBSP/TSP for adding nutrient. Or where you refering to the hydrometer? This is the one I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CITP03W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
I think I maybe should have waited longer to start the secondary fermentation based on the other comment.
I also plan on getting a yeast energizer for the next batch as well.
​
​
We bought one on amazon that will turn off the lamps at a certain temperature (give or take a specified threshold): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FTQ669S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title
I was also super paranoid about the temperature and got two lamps, which has been really helpful...if only to prevent me from waking up in the middle of the night to check on him those first couple of weeks :) That one has two plugs controlled by one thermometer.
thats not a regular bottles though it has the swing top. Those are supposed to give out pressure if it builds up too much. I have had this happen to me before with just 1-2 days of fermenting and it made a mess int he kitchen but didn't blow up the bottle. Your freaking me out now though....
These are the bottles I have https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078JYNSCR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I got this one recently, pretty cheap for stainless steel. Only downside is no conical base, but at that price, I can't complain.
From amazon! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B078JYNSCR?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
I buy replacement tops though because the ones they come with don’t provide a great seal. I got these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M31XE0W?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
I was recently gifted this 128oz mini keg/growler. Would a setup like this be better to force carbonate or should I just pour into the keg from bottles after bottle conditioning and use as a pressurized growler?
Also does anyone have this model or a similar one? How do you like it?
i currently use a carafe with an airlock but am looking to buy this which is for making kimchi and sauerkraut
http://amzn.com/B00M40ANMO
So something like this would not be good?
Maybe beer carbonation tabs?
https://www.amazon.com/Brewers-Best-Conditioning-Tablets-Count/dp/B006O2D9RE