Best household appliance paint according to redditors

Most likely high heat spray. Used it when I constructed a mini blacksmith forge. It Comes in a Rustoelum can.

here

Sure, after taking whatever part I was going to paint off the bike I would:

• Wash it over with soap and water.
  
  
  
• Than I would use 160 grit sandpaper you can either do this by hand or with a handheld Sander. I did a similar part with hands and Sander, the sander did such a better job, well worth the investment. After a going over it a few times you will know its finished when it has a dull look to it, look at some of the pictures in my comments. They aren't too shiny and everything will be smooth.
  
  
  
• The part should now be dull and dirty looking. Wipe off all the excess dust and debris with a regular rag. Then take a polishing rag and pour some paint thinner on it and wipe the whole thing down. This will get rid of all your oils and such. ( btw if you haven't been wearing latex gloves or using a medical mask yet, you might want to) This will give the part a wet look to it, it will slowly evaporate though.
  
  
  
• After all the paint thinner is evaporated you should have a clean metal part that is ready to be primed. I used this primer. worked great. Use quick lines and follow the instruction on the can. you just want a thin and even coat. I would let mine sit and dry for about 30 to 45 minutes.
  
  
  
• When the primer is dry you should take 400 grit sandpaper and go over all the primer. ( I did this by hand although I'm sure you could do it with a hand held sander as well)
  
  
  
• After the primer was sanded down and smooth I wiped it off with a rag to get all the primer dust off of it and began to spray paint. The color I used was a BBQ black spray paint. like this And the same thing with the primer, thin quick lines until everything was covered. Let that sit for a hour at least.
  
  
  
  I hope this all helps you, this was my first time doing it and it was intimidating at first. I practiced on a couple old pipes i have sitting around and realized it was easier than i thought. I was doing this in a small garage so I used a medical mask the whole time lots of dust and spray. Also gloves would be a good investment. If I managed to miss anything or you have more question that i might have skipped let me know. And remember the thing that will give you the best quality is prepping before painting. patience is key.
  
  
  tl:dr clean, sand, clean, prime, clean, paint.
  

I re-finished my 870 recently. http://i.imgur.com/vcYaJgt.jpg

Take some steel wool and strip the shitty old park off. Degrease with Break cleaner or acetone. Buy a can of this: http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-248903-Automotive-12-Ounce-Degree/dp/B003CT4AKC and spray all the metal with it. Bake it in the oven according to the instructions (but do the 3rd round of baking @ 450 not 600+) (NOTE: DO NO BAKE THE TRIGGER GROUP/BOLT).


(the wood was done with pine tar and leather dye)


The total cost for re-doing the metal was 10-12$ and it is at least as durable if not more durable than something like duracote.

I sandblasted mine and painted it with [high heat spray paint](Rust-Oleum Automotive 249310 12-Ounce BBQ Black Spray, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006ZLQNO0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_e1ePCb3GCGXV4). It has held up for many rides.

Use stove paint. Can handle much more heat than engine paint can:

https://www.amazon.com/Stove-Bright-High-Temp-Paint/dp/B006BKMK1A

If you want it black I suggest high temp paint

I would use a primer. It will give something for the paint to really bind to because metal is non-porous. Make sure you get a metal primer.

Rust-Oleum Automotive Rust Primer: https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249331-Automotive-12-Ounce-Primer/dp/B003CT4AO8/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1479909567&sr=1-2&keywords=metal+primer

I prefer using Rustoleum brand. They have automotive enamel paints and they look great. I just used this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001UE7MW4/ref=twister_B002LSIFOC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

On my lug nuts and they look great. A good gloss finish too. There are many paints you can use, just stay away from arts and crafts-y paints and make sure its good for metal use. As long as you use several even, thin coats of paint on top of primer, you should be in good shape!

Also, I would recommend repainting the whole wiper blade. It will look spotty if you don't plus its small enough that it should not take much more time to do. Happy Detailing!

A can of black Grill Paint will tolerate the heat and cover that mark.

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-248903-Automotive-12-Ounce-Degree/dp/B003CT4AKC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414706936&sr=8-2&keywords=grill+paint

If the metal is rusted through, then it's probably not worth it. But, if the metal is still good underneath I would say to go for it!

Making a really hot fire inside the grill works phenomenally well. After that, I used a sander to get all the rust off I could.

You want to make sure the surface is clean before you paint, and it is helpful to use a primer. For the paint I used a high temperature spray paint designed for the purpose. The surface needs to be clean before you apply it, and you can't apply the paint anywhere that touches open flame.

Remove any paint that is not sitting directly on the tub by lifting it off. But don't go too far with it. Get some 300 or 400 grit sandpaper, and sand the edges of the remaining paint, so the paint will not end over the tub at a 90 degree angle. You want it sloping down to the tub essentially, as much as possible. Sand gently. And lightly sand the entire tub area that is missing paint too.

Clean the entire area with nail polish remover or a similar cleaning solvent. Use this product with your windows open. Spray, let it dry, or make sure at least that it’s not dripping, and spray another coat. You can put as many coats on as you like. This is one of many similar products. Good luck.

Yeah, I thought about that too after I posted my reply. Another possible option would be some flat black automotive exhaust system paint.

You're on the right track. The single barrel UDS upright is really only 4 main parts. You have your drum, a fire basket, grate, and lid. I'm at work otherwise I would take pics of mine and walk you through it. Might be able to still do that later but here are a couple things to look at to get you started. link cross section

I have a heat deflector on my charcoal basket as well. It was cheaper to just make a clover shape deflector out of 3 pizza pans with a bolt through the edge. All about getting creative.

Here's a write up of how I made mine:

1. Burn out the drum - I burned out the drum with a propane weed burner. You can buy one pretty cheap from Harbor Freight or rent one from a local place. I burned out the liner of the drum really well so that the liner didn't come off and end up in my food. Took about 2 hours of good burning and vigorous steel brushing to clean it up to my satisfaction.
   
   
2. Fire basket - I cannibalized an old Weber grill for a bunch of parts for this build. I used the charcoal grate, some expanded metal mesh, and some steel zip ties to form a basket shape. A few inches of threaded rod with some washers and nuts to fasten it to the grate for legs and boom - fire basket is good to go.
   
   
3. Lid - I used an old Weber 22" lid for this so I could have a middle and top rack in my smoker. I flared out the edge and riveted on a piece of tin to make it a little wider since the original size was roughly the same as the barrel and you want a nice fit. You can go with a flat top and add a stack or get creative. Just keep in mind the airflow.
   
   
4. Burn 'n' beer. I was still unsure of the chemicals ending up in my food so I decided to take a break. Loaded up the barrel with some good hard wood and started a hobo campfire. Buddy and I drank some beers and relaxed for a bit while that sucker got spit-jumping hot - as in, we would spit on the outside and it would appear to bounce off.
   
   
5. Air inflow - This was the hardest part for me. I used salvaged black pipe and made intake pipes that went in at the bottom and ran parallel to the drum up to the top where it was finished with a couple gate valves. I liked the valves for controlling the air flow but found that the 2 x 1" pipes weren't enough. So I ended up putting two more "always open" holes about 2" above the bottom. That seemed to fix it and give me the control I wanted.
   
   
6. Paint - you don't have to, but if you're gonna spend the money, you may as well protect your investment. I used Rustoleum High Heat and it worked well. I've seen some people get crazy with designs but that's totally up to you.
   
7. Racks and Temp Guage - I installed the racks by resting them on self tapping metal screws put through from the outside. Only had to put two in because I ended up adding U-bolts to support the black pipe intake valves and they poked through far enough to rest the grate on. The temp guage that i installed was just a cheapo grill one - nothing special but it gets the job done.
   
   Now I don't move mine far so I never installed the castors that I was planning on using. I had the basic design in my head of using angle iron and basically making a permanent hand truck that attaches to the side of the drum and all you had to do to move it was tilt the drum onto the wheels and you're off.
   
   This is a pretty rough write up and I apologize for the lack of pics. If I can find my build pics, I'll post them here. Let me know if you have any questions or if I can help!

Thanks, the paint I was referencing is RustOleum's here...seems ok for high heat, but perhaps you're right when it comes in contact with a flame.

Perhaps a shield of some kind is in order?

Seconded (thirded?). I bought a can of high heat paint off amazon for a rebuild that I ended up letting a buddy use on his Sporty's pipes. disassemble the whole shebang and tape over the ends, paint it on a nice day, let it totally dry. This stuff goes on almost like primer so it didn't need much prep work either.

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-248903-Automotive-12-Ounce-Degree/dp/B003CT4AKC/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1375303554&sr=1-3&keywords=grill+spray+paint

To add to this suggestion, this paint works well:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B003CT4AKC/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_alFVCbDETHETK

Gromet

Gromet https://imgur.com/a/LUm2luQ

Impresa Products 2 Pack Thermometer and Probe Grommet for Grills - Compatible with Weber Smokey Mountain Cookers and More - Compare to Replacement 85037 - by https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BC4TYQ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CcXZCb1AF0HA6

Krylon K01618777 High Heat Satin Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YQ0BNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jjXZCb1MKDZCZ

This is what you want. Should be able to find it at Lowes also.

Do they need to be chalkboards, or would dry-erase be an option?

If you can make dry-erase boards, I'd go for the sheet metal and appliance paint.

Try magic eraser if you think it's build up. For the scratches try touch up paint
Like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RNPGKE/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_xXKNBb0K73T7A or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HYHLK56/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_zZKNBb2XPAS33

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7881830-Appliance-Enamel-12-Ounce/dp/B0009XB40I

That sucks. Get some good paint to repair it and it shouldn't happen again.

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003CT4AKC/