(Part 2) Best household batteries according to redditors

Have this mouse and love it. Pro-tip: buy lithium AAA batteries and use a single one with a AAA to AA adapter. Makes the mouse <100g weight; amazing for those of us with really low dpi.

Specifically I use this combination and get 100 hours + playtime on a single battery.

https://www.amazon.com/Energizer-Ultimate-Lithium-Batteries-Count/dp/B06ZYWKBRB/ref=sr_1_3?crid=RL8TO6P0PCXX&keywords=aaa%2Blithium%2Bbatteries&qid=1566184348&s=gateway&sprefix=aaa%2Blithium%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-3&th=1


https://www.amazon.com/LAMPVPATH-Battery-Adapter-Converter-adapter/dp/B07D6RDQ3S/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=aaa+to+aa+converter&qid=1566184360&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I feel like 650 batteries for one day is surprisingly high, considering a 100 count pack form Amazon costs about $24, which would be the equivalent of around ~350 calories. Even factoring in the reduction down to 130 batteries a day, you'd still be looking at burning through around $25 dollars a day for just yourself in food.

Amazon? They're pretty common.

If you want some real cool stuff though, go see what /r/flashlight can do with some 18650's.

well it's a pretty shit battery setup so we ain't wrong. If you insist on running a 9V use these: http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Charger-600mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00HV4KFSA since they'll at least give you IMR caliber performance.

For the lazy and non-gifted who would either stab themselves and/or the batteries.

I use amazon basic batteries. iirc they're just rebranded Eneloops batteries and those are pretty much the go to. I opted for the high capacity varation as they're 2400mAh instead of 2000mAh like the standard version. It's only like a dollar more for the added capacity so it seemed worth it to me

I got this bundle. Got an 8 pack because I wanted 2 batteries for my touch controllers and 2 for my xbox controller while the other 4 would be charged and ready to be swapped in when the batteries in either controller died https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FJBDVIM/

I have the same Jeep in red for my son. If you’d like to add a dual battery setup, this 12AH battery fits perfectly in the empty compartment on the left side under the hood. You can wire it in parallel with the existing battery for many many hours of fun.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A82A2ZS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I think something is messed up with SupplyBuy's pricing script (don't know if that will affect them honoring the $4 price). Check these out:

Duracell AA batteries, 20 count - $2944.00

Motorola USB power adapter - $431.00

SanDisk 16GB flash drive - $3881.00

The SupplyBuy storefront

EDIT: Ok, looks like they must have caught it, since they're now all showing as unavailable. Here's an image of the SanDisk one.

No

60 Watt Panel

Charge Controller

Battery

Light

12v Cig Adapter

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01B8R6PF2/ just imagine the heartache when someone puts one in the wrong way around...

https://www.amazon.com/Eneloop-Spacers-Ni-MH-Rechargeable-Battery/dp/B00WF0V3YU/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=eneloop+adapter&qid=1569242366&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Newest generation has 2700Mah a cell.

These literally just came out yesterday.
https://www.amazon.com/Powerex-Capacity-Rechargeable-Batteries-2700mAh/dp/B06X9F27GV

Currently using the GPW and G305 (use them pretty much equal, if I'm having a bad game I'll switch). My S2 arrived Tuesday, and it's on it's way back today lmao. Shape isn't bad it's too small for me (19.5cm x 10.5xm hands). That said despite the shape, it really did suck going back to a wired mouse haha. I don't have a bungee and I forget how annoying it was to constantly have to rewrap my wire around my desk and tug on it in case it fell off the back of the table.

Additionally, even though I did like the shape of S2, the glossy coating is retarded. My hands would feel disgusting like I just came in my hand and ate a bag of potato chips. Then without even washing my hand I would place it on my gpw and instantly feel clean. You can see it too, my S2 looks far grosser after 2 days than my g102 did after 2 years. I also felt really silly paying $70 for a mouse that from a technical standpoint is inferior to my $50 g305 in every singe way. Even my $27 g102 feels higher quality than the s2 in terms of buttons, wheel and material. Don't worry about sensor, 3360/hero is overkill and I never noticed anything going from Mercury to Hero.

On top of that instead of using amazon prime and having 2 days turnarounds tops it takes 8 days to recieve from Zowie direct. First impression of Zowie, the shapes ARE GOOD, but not really not that special and in no way make up for their mediocre quality and being overpriced. Like yeah, despite being too small for me I did like the shape of the s2, but I didn't like it any better than my g305 or gpw, it was just different.

When I got my $130 g pro wireless I didn't feel like I got ripped off at all. When I felt how sturdy yet light it was, and saw how long the rechargeable battery lasted, I knew I had paid a high price for a high quality product. I have the complete opposite feeling with Zowie.

So in conclusion get the GPW. Better yet, if you're already using the g203, get a g305 for less than half the price. Get these battery shellshttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D6RDQ3S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

with these lithium ion batteries

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZYWKBRB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and the mouse will weight EXACTLY THE SAME as the g102.

I know using nonrechargeable can be lame, but I've been using the g203 for a month now and the battery still shows full bars.

Like I said I use gpw and g305, and I honestly feel like I play better with the g305, I'm just so used to the shape after going from a g100s, to a g203 to this over the past 4 years. Despite the shape I still use the GPW too because it's hard NOT to aim well with a large wireless 80g mouse.

It's a battery adapter. Specifically you put one of these batteries inside of one of these things and you can save yourself a hand full of grams in weight while losing out on 2/3'rds of the battery life a standard sized battery would net you. It's one of those pro/con pick your poison situations.

500 clams is worth about $17 (based on the $20 for 600 clams price)

you can literally buy 48 real actual batteries for less than that

Ridiculous

A good 12v usb charger (2.4 amp or 4.2 amp).

USB AA charger.

Spare AAs and flashlight in your glovebox.

I would learn how to use your smart phone with voice controls. And see if you have a way to hook your phone into your car radio.

Audiobooks.

Any light using lithium batteries will have a ten year storage life or better. Of course, do use an l.e.d. light and not krypton, halogen, or an incandescant bulb since they are so inefficient and hard on batteries. In regards to the cold, it only helps storage life. Like any battery, once brought to room temperature the battery is back to full power and while in cold storage it probably gained some storage life.

Crank lights are notorious for cheapness and being undependable. For the dependability and price of alternatives, crank lights are nothing better than a novelty. Buy them for fun but don't count on them. That is why even the most expensive go for around $20.00 US. A quality l.e.d. light with lithium batteries in it and a spare set of lithium batteries should cover most long term storage and emergency needs if you don't want to pursue an alternative power source.

If you really want to be ready for longer situations:

To provide power for long term power outages and have juice for: AM/FM radio's, cell phones, CB/VHF/GMRS/FRS radio's, flashlights/lanterns, laptops, etc., then a small solar power supply and bank of rechargeable batteries is necessary and not that expensive (see below). If you convert all battery powered devices in your home to rechargeable batteries and have a compliment of pre-charged backups, they can be moved from household use to emergency equipment and in your bag quickly before "bugging out". This way you save money from using rechargeable's instead of disposables in daily life and have removable bug out power storage as a bonus. If the power goes out and you stay in, then of course you don't have to move them and they are there waiting for use and re-application.



So let's say you are into the really serious bug out bag. Nickel metal hydride batteries such as Sanyo's Eneloop's are the way to go. While similar to most rechargeable batteries you have seen, these only have 10% PER YEAR discharge rates and can be recharged 1,500 times. Just ridiculous. The easiest way to tell these apart from the regular nickel metal rechargeables (which discharge more like 10% per month) is the addition of the tag line "pre-charged" on the label.

Add a portable solar charger such as this or this, maybe this. Add an extra couple of sets of batteries, and you are set for any potential long term "grid down" situation. If you choose electronic devices that all use similar batteries such as the very common "AA's" as much as possible - you also keep life simple by being able to choose larger collections of the same batteries. GMRS/FRS radio's can be had in AAA or AA, flashlights in AAA/AA/or a half dozen others, AM/FM radio's in AAA or AA...choose the same power source (read:AA) and the collection becomes much easier.

The going thing now is USB chargers on solar panels. That is why the Sanyo battery kit/charger I linked to has one (a USB connector). You can charge all batteries, cell phones, laptops, etc. with the solar chargers listed.

If you convert your remotes and all other battery devices at home to rechargeable's instead of expensive disposable's - you not only save money every year but you also have a large selection of rechargeable batteries to dip into and "recharge" nearly indefinitely with a solar charger of your choice. Why buy to prepare for a "maybe use" situation when you can "regularly use", save money, and add that to your "bug out" collection at any time? Alkaline's are now old technology with the invention of the low discharge Sanyo batteries. There is really no reason to buy an alkaline anymore when you can buy these rechargeable's, save money, and they can also be topped off - "off the grid" with a solar charger (at home in the yard or bugging out) with just the sun.

About $7 for 20.

Or pay $24 per 100 AA batteries on Amazon.

This is a good detailed review that shows you how the Tenavolts work, but there are some mistakes so read the comments:

• Review & Teardown: Tenavolts AA Size 1.5V Li-ion battery : r/AAMasterRace
  
  Correct me if I'm wrong, but last I checked the 30% discount applies to all of the Tenavolts packages:
  
  
• AmazonSmile: TENAVOLTS Rechargeable AA Battery Charger with 4 Counts Lithium 2775 mWh AA Rechargeable Batteries: Home Audio & Theater
  
• AmazonSmile: TENAVOLTS Rechargeable Lithium/Li-ion Batteries, AA Rechargeable Batteries, Constant Output at 1.5V, Quick Charge Less Than 2 Hours, 2775 mWh Electrical core Power- 4 Count …: Industrial & Scientific
  
• AmazonSmile: TENAVOLTS First Generation Rechargeable Lithium/Li-ion Batteries, AA Rechargeable Batteries, Micro USB Charger Included, Constant Output at 1.5V,Quick Charge,2775 mWh Electrical core Power- 2 Count: Home Audio & Theater
  
  That last one is especially handy if you travel with AA batteries.

Battery life is a real problem indeed, something Microsoft should start optimizing for the next generation. A proper removable high capacity nihm accu, integrated charging circuit and optimized low power/consumption electronics.
Windows MR started out as a low cost VR platform; it's time step up your game, Microsoft.

​

In the meantime i can recommend Blackube 1.5V 1500Mah batteries or similar:

https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Batteries-Battery-Li-ion-Long-Lasting-High-Capacity/dp/B07D9K2H9H?th=1 )

​

They last pretty long, almost no voltage drop until empty. Recharge time is OK (micro usb 1-2 hours)

Eneloop Spacers 4 C Size Spacers & 4 D Size Spacers for Use with Ni-MH Rechargeable AA Battery Cells & Case Pack of 8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WF0V3YU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_D8LmDb21M6SJC

If your light was designed to take a li-ion cell, you could put a 10440 in there and get a little more brightness (and a lot more heat), but it's not designed for that. Don't try it, you'll likely ruin the electronics of your light.

A brand new lithium primary (non-rechargeable, not to be confused with li-ion) such as the Energizer Ultimate Lithium when brand new, are about 1.8v. So with a brand new one of these, you'll get a tad more brightness, but I doubt you would be able to notice the difference. The pro's of lithium primaries is they last longer than alkaline or NiMH, don't leak (generally only alkalines leak), are much lighter and work better than anything else in the cold...but they are quite expensive. NiMH are usually preferred because of being rechargeable, which makes them really cheap to use and provide decent run time (especially the ones I linked for you). The main downside of NiMH is you'll need a one-time purchase of a charger, such as the EBL 907.

Amazonbasic rechargeables are enough, but for NiMH you must get a decent charger - something with delta-T or delta-V charging i.e. the Panasonic BQ-CC17 that comes in a 4 pack with eneloops, or most of the ones out there with LCDs.

The bad quality ones will either undercharge or slowly roast your batteries via overcharging because they don't have ways to detect batteries being full.

Otherwise Li-ion AAs are more expensive per battery but work good for WMR because they output a flat 1.5v until they die.

Here's why I just bought Li-on over NiZn, specifically these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F27PK2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GyjUCb59Z0M6Y

over these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WTRSTAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zyjUCbSDJQDTC

First of all, the PK Cell has the title in their listing wrong, it's not 2500mAh, they are 2500mWh. 2500mWh @ 1.6v = 1562.5 mAh

So is 1500mAh vs 1562.5mAh (assuming they actually pump out that long) draw.

Charging time on the Li-on =1.5 hr
Charging time on the NiZn = 6(+/-)hr

Recharge cycles on Li-on = 1000
Recharge cycles on NiZn = 400(?)

Voltage is slightly better, yes, 1.6 vs 1.5, but again, I consider this a draw and not worth the trade off.

Voltage output is steady on both till they are pretty much empty, so draw there.

You need to is the special charger for the PK Cell
Charging circuit is built in each Li-on, so you can use any phone charger or us port. It still comes with a 4way cable. This also offers another advantage in that the individual cell with get the voltage it needs and you will know it is actually fully charged. The PK Cell well charge 2 batteries at a time, so if you have a bad cell, you will spend more time recharging as you figure out which one it is. No indication that charging is done, so I don't know if it actually stops applying full voltage or not.

Each Li-on individually will turn green when it is done. You can charge any amount you want simultaneously.

They cost the same (factoring in the cost of the charger), but the PK Cell are cheaper by themselves

Having said all that, I just bought the Twarf and had a bad cell right out of the box. Luckily, Amazon is amazing and I had another box at my door the next day. (Still have to return the original set they sent). They second box charged up fine and looks ready to rock.

Amazon has cheap double A's. 100 AA's for $23

Links to items. If there isn't a separate link to purchase then they can be purchased from the manufacturers website.

Outside of the belt:

• Alien Gear Cloak Tuck IWB with nylon clips
  
  
• Golla Mobile cell phone wallet
  
  
• Kydex pocket holster
  
  
  Belt:
  
  
• Daltech Force SuperBio Belt
  
  
  Inside belt, clockwise from noon/top:
  
  
• S&W Shield 9mm (no safety) (Purchase) carrying 9 rounds (8+1) of Winchester PDX-1 124 grain +P (Purchase)
  
  
• LG Octane (Purchase)
  
  
• Keys
  
  • Ignition key and remote for Chevy Trailblazer (Purchase) connected to the rest of the keys by a Nite-Ize S-Biner
    
    
  • resqme car escape tool
    
    
  • SOG Key Knife in blue
    
    
  • House key
    
    
  • Work keys
    
    
• Streamlight MicroStream (Purchase)
  
  
• Sypderco Endura FFG in blue (Purchase)
  
  
• Leatherman Squirt PS4 in blue
  
  
• Items carried in the Golla case
  
  • Mini Sharpie (Purchase)
    
    
  • Extra battery for flashlight (Purchase)
    
    
  • Nitrile gloves (Purchase)
    
    
  • Chapstick
    
    
  • Small piece of blue shop towel (Purchase)
    
    
  • Allstate insurance card
    
    
  • Extra cash
    
    
  • Band-Aids (Purchase)
    
    
  • Ambu Mini CPR mask (Purchase](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BEPCNFU))
    
    
  • Gorilla Tape (Purchase) wrapped around an old plastic card (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007M413BC)
    
    
    Not pictured: Tri-fold John Deere Wallet containing cash, debit card, Google Wallet card, driver's license, insurance card, and handgun license.

Great deal on a 48 pack

Yes, it can be removed and used in hand if you want to. I have the flashlight version of that light and It has held up well over the past year.

I don't think I've seen a 12v charger, but there probably is something out there. You could always get the eneloop charger with a usb cable pack and pick up one of those 12v to USB adapters.

I thought it was odd that he was harping on how many mAh the "bad" D battery held and that it was the same as a AA but he never did say how many mAh a D size is supposed to have.

Some googling found these:

Rechargable D size @ 12,000 mAh, 2 for $23.

http://www.amazon.com/CTA-Digital-12000-Rechargeable-Battery/dp/B001647WKU/ref=pd_sbs_hpc_1

8 pack for $50 @ 10,000 mAh:

http://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Size-capacity-Rechargeable-batteries/dp/B001AYIRH8/ref=pd_sbs_hpc_3

Road pro d cell powered fan https://www.amazon.com/RoadPro-RP8000-Indoor-Outdoor-Power/dp/B00KJGRLJI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526014405&sr=8-1&keywords=roadpro+fan
powered with a couple sets of these D Cells https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-10000mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries-Flashlight/dp/B001AYIRH8/ref=sr_1_sc_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1526014459&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=ternergy+d+cells

Charge them with this charger
https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-T-1199B-Universal-Battery-Charger/dp/B0019273U8/ref=pd_bxgy_121_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0019273U8&pd_rd_r=6AKQTFQM053GGVEPMPC4&pd_rd_w=f0PUk&pd_rd_wg=S4GRX&psc=1&refRID=6AKQTFQM053GGVEPMPC4&dpID=41pRtqenYEL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

Charge up at the local libraries
that setup should power the fan for a few days on high per set of batteries.

There's also these.

Only 81% the power density compared to the batteries that OP mentioned (2250mWh vs 2775mWh), but similar low weight and they each have a micro usb port for charging.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X9F27GV/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

these are worth looking at too. I've purchased both these and the ones I originally linked, I honestly can't think of any difference in terms of performance/longevity

Amazon has mighty max 18-22ah for less than $45 they are as small as I've even been bothered to look at

https://www.amazon.com/ML18-12-CB19-12-Rechargeable-Replacement-Battery/dp/B00K8E4WAW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524707694&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=18+ah+agm+battery&dpPl=1&dpID=51YkSt6qH0L&ref=plSrch

I bought these bad boys and a charger

http://www.amazon.com/Maxell-Cell-Pack-Battery-723443/dp/B002PY7P4I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393959296&sr=8-1&keywords=aa+batteries

96 AA batteries for $25.

http://www.costco.com/Duracell-Quantum-AA-30-Unit-2pk-Alkaline-Batteries-.product.100081528.html

60 AA batteries for $38.

Cells like these. Their capacity is only 500mAh, unlike Ikea Ladda AAAs that have 900mAh. Some cells (like this one) use a lithium ion cell inside, but there's circuitry inside to convert the different voltage to a regular AAA voltage (1.5V).

They look similar because this iPod enabled boombox is actually a modern remake of the Lasonic TRC-931 Cassette Boombox. While they look very similar the original is said to have much better bass response.. I've owned one of the newer models that are made for iPods and despite its shortcomings compared to the older cassette tape version I'd say it's a well worth the money if a boom box is something you're interested in.

However I would recommend purchasing some rechargeable D batteries and a charger if you want to fully utilize the boombox greatness.

Eneloops are Panasonic's brand name for their NiMH cells (much like Kleenex to facial tissue). Every time I see someone review NiMH cells, Eneloops come out on top. Panasonic also sells cells to Amazon and Ikea who put their own label on them.

It also helps that they're $17 for 4 with a charger on Amazon. That said, since I think you need 6 cells, here's the Amazon rewrap version with 8 cells and a charger for $33.

​

If you want to retain stock firing rate, I'd stick with the stock spring. Their improved current capabilities will make the system snappier, but they're probably not powerful enough to run a 6 kg spring at stock ROF.

What?

Powerex PRO High Capacity Rechargeable AA NiMH Batteries (1.2V, 2700mAh) - 4-Pack, (MHRAA4PRO) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X9F27GV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pGExCbAA5GMAX

Most places I searched these were recommended for the mflb. And for the record they work perfectly fine

Edit: you can see mflb recommends them here. https://www.magic-flight.com/batteries.php

Yea looked into it, charger is atleast 60 bucks and the battery pack aftermarket from China is about 40 bucks. Not worth it. I do think my grip has a AA battery tray. So if thats the case I'll use the grip with a EL3 battery normally, which works but doesn't give me 8 fps ,and switch to the AA's when I need 8fps for motorsports or something. I should be able to buy a truck load of AA's for 100$ About 500 (thats about 65 full charges of 8fps) so thats a more economical options. Won't be needing 8fps very regularly anyway so.

Thanks once again :)

No, definitely not...... these below are the ones you want, hopefully you can find a better price than the one listed. https://www.amazon.com/Powerex-Capacity-Rechargeable-Batteries-2700mAh/dp/B06X9F27GV/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538395383&sr=8-1-fkmr2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=powerex+nimh+2700

It's almost certainly less than that, these ones from Amazon say they're 400mAh, but I'm not sure I even trust that. You'd be much better off just getting regular rechargeable batteries and a separate battery charger. For example here's a set of eight NiMh AAA batteries that supposedly have 1000 mAh (yeah, right), that come with a charger and they're half the price of the four I linked above.

Every USB port and GPU will function differently. The USB wattage draw is high enough to drop the voltage some across the cable. Some USB ports start out at 5.2-5.3 volts and they work better. Most "front" USB 3.0 ports already have a 18-24 inch extension and don't perform as well. The 10ft cables below work perfectly for me on a high end x299 rig with the 5v USB 3.0 and 3.1 that tap off the 12v bus. On another rig but the same odyssey + Headset the sound cuts out.


These are the best for for me.
Cable Matters USB 3.0 Extension Cable in Blue 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008219UMI/

If the 10 foot has problems for you the 3ft or 6ft might work. Try the Cable on Each USB port first. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008219UMI/

AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/

Also the controllers need high voltage batteries. If you use really good Panasonic Oneloop Pro's even they can give problems. When those NiMh's get down to about 1.2-12.5 volts (Even with 60% charge left) The odyssey can trigger a low battery warning and switch to 60hz mode degrading performance. https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-BK-3HCCA4BA-eneloop-Pre-Charged-Rechargeable/dp/B00JHKSL28/

The way around this is to run 1.6V NiZn Rechargeable cells instead. https://www.amazon.com/2500mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries-Battery-Charger/dp/B00WTRSTAU/

AA, but you can get rechargeable AAs for pretty cheap anyway.

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FJBDVIM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FoOVCbD38BTT4?th=1&psc=1

The AAA is the better option. You still get pretty much the same battery life and you save weight.

Here’s what I believe are the lightest AAAs you can buy and here’s the adapters you’ll need to use them. I like that kit because it comes with 12 adapters (so you can also switch things like your TV remotes and household wall clocks over to cheap AAA and save some cash in the long run) and also the storage case that’s included is actually pretty nice.

If you’re in the US and you’re interested in swapping the shell over to a 3D printed version with honeycomb holes then let me know and I’ll share the link where you can buy them already printed.

Yes, what you're describing is very possible; it is called a battery/power management system. However, using D-cell batteries is probably not a great option here.

I'm using you're using these batteries.. These are more geared towards consumer user than with easy integration into a DIY project.

Is there a reason you chose a 12V/3A supply?

Adafruit has some easy components/solutions you could look into.

See:

Lithium Ion Battery Pack - 3.7V 6600mAh

https://www.adafruit.com/product/259

Any with a 1.5 voltage. Got these when it was 12.99, and they work way better than the 1.2 V's I use to use. It is worth it the get a set of 4 1.5v than to get 8 1.2v

https://www.amazon.com/TENAVOLTS-Rechargeable-Batteries-Constant-Electrical/dp/B07MCGH26Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?keywords=1.5%2Bv%2Brechargeable%2Baa&qid=1573005727&sprefix=1.5%2Bv%2Bre&sr=8-17&th=1&psc=1

I recommend these 1.6V NiZn batteries, they last forever

https://www.amazon.com/2500mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries-Battery-Charger/dp/B00WTRSTAU/ref=pd_aw_sim_421_1/144-9120517-6819731?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00WTRSTAU&pd_rd_r=c19ceb30-7a65-4aae-a552-48bbfb3eb83a&pd_rd_w=6Kfcd&pd_rd_wg=kGw14&pf_rd_p=a966b482-aeee-4b16-9ffe-9a1cb857c30c&pf_rd_r=3S5BEA6JMXRGGVAH72KJ&psc=1&refRID=3S5BEA6JMXRGGVAH72KJ

Here's the one I was typing about.

I mean $17 vs $7 on your link, but you get the batteries, a charger, and they are the best widely available NIMHs out there. Some guys are still using Gen 1 Eneloops at near full capacity.

There was also a Duraloop sale post a few days ago, but probably wasn't a usb charger.

Note: I'm not a flashlight geek, just lurking - but I feel compelled to point out some things from that perspective...

You're talking about an AAA pen light (1 or 2 AAAs, right?) so there's pretty close to zero chance of it being what anyone would consider "high performance." If you want maximal light output you'd be way way way better off picking a different type of light with a more robust power source.

But for AAAs it's really not too hard : Alkalines for cheap, LSD NiMh for a rechargeable option, or Lithium for special use cases. Ignore "Heavy Duty" batteries except maybe in desperation or for nostalgia. There really aren't other options readily available for AAAs.

FWIW, I'm currently using a Coast G19 which I like a lot compared to the generic crap I've previously used. It's bright enough and well focused (almost zero spill), tough enough to get stepped on etc. - and I've even managed to get it back from everyone who has borrowed it. (so far)

Battery-wise, I took a coupon to the local Harbor Freight store and picked up a pack of $3.99/24 AAA alkalines. I used two in a wireless mouse. When it reported a low battery level I took them out and put one in my light. It's been working for occasional use well over 6 months, with no signs of giving up yet. I think it'll be hard to beat that. (except maybe for using the 9Volts I remove annually from smoke detectors with one of these

If I was in very-low-temp conditions, cared a lot about saving weight, or couldn't easily replace the battery and needed high reliability (long wilderness trips?) I'd use a disposable lithium AAA - like these from Energizer … at about 10x the cost of alkalines.

Using NiMh, I've had "mixed" experience with performance, but that's probably because I was using super-cheap lights. If my light happens to disappear after being "borrowed" I'd just as soon not lose a good battery too. But if I used my light super frequently, and wanted to give two shits about the environment, they'd probably be a decent choice.

Anyway - hope that helps some.

I don't really wanna post the code for ethical reasons (I started with some basic Adafruit code for bluetooth and turned it into a full OS). But here's a feature list:

1. Bluetooth, where time, battery percentage, and location are automagically updated by a companion app (a modified version of this app by Nordic Semiconductor.)
   
   
2. A stopwatch, accessed by pressing the left button.
   
   
3. A flashlight, turned on by one of the switches
   
   
4. A "dumb mode" in which only the time is displayed, accessed by flipping the bottom switch
   
   
5. In the future, notifications.
   
   I used u8g2's u8x8 mode for the screen drawing, as it requires no ram.
   
   ​
   
   Here are my parts:
   
   Voltage regulator (takes 8.4v down to 5v)
   
   22pF capacitors
   
   16MHz Oscillator (required for standalone board)
   
   DIYMall blue OLED
   
   Knockoff Arduino Uno
   
   Adafruit UART-Capable bluetooth module (makes sending data easier)
   
   Spare ATMega 328 processors
   
   Li-Ion" 9V" (8.4v) batteries (rechargeable)
   
   Switches
   
   9V battery clip
   
   Soldering Kit
   
   Elegoo prototyping PCBs
   
   Jumper wires (makes life easier & tidier)
   
   Elegoo Starter Kit (Comes with LEDs, resistors, and buttons)

USB Rechargeable Lithium Batteries AA Battery-Li-ion Battery USB Cell Long-Lasting Backup Power Pack Rechargeable with Micro-USB Charging Cable (4 Count)-1.5V,1250mAh,High-Capacity Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D9K2H9H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ev4TCbQ1GC1X7

Even better.

This is the battery.

Are these it?

$5 for 6 batteries

I bought one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UAG776/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (it looks like they don't make them anymore)
and keep it plugged into and attached to the back of my monitor. Whenever the battery dies, I just swap it out with a charged one. Makes it a lot simpler, and you never have to use a usb cable.

How about a separate battery bank?

I have this

and two of these in parallel and enclosed in a fishing tackle box (the ISOpwr is mounted to the outside of the tackle box). This portable setup can be removed if needed, but basically stays put in the car to power my Icom dual bander. I've left the Icom on overnight accidentally, and because it's separate from the car battery, have not had issues with flat starting batteries. It charges when the engine runs. No noise, I've run HF (Yeasu FT-857) at 100 watts, engine off, no problems.

I chose this setup to be both my mobile power supply and a removable emergency battery.

I just bought, and installed an exhaust fan in the back of my pickup. It works great, and I'm stoked to have power in the back now. It wasn't very difficult to figure out.

I bought this, this, this, this, and this fan. It set me back about $350, but I went with a larger, more powerful solar panel. You'll need some 10 gage wire and crimp connections. Home depot has all those parts.

Here's what it looks like.

I second this. Once I switched form 1.2v NiMH rechargeable batteries to 1.5v Lithium-Ion batteries my controller fly away issues were resolved with my Odyssey+ controllers. I also make sure I'm always in good lighting. But the battery change solved my issue more than anything else.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MCGH26Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Nice save. 👈😎👈

How about a couple of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MCGH26Q/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BTN8P26/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also, just so people know, some Anne Pro 2’s are being shipped with a 700mAh battery instead of the 1900 they’re supposed to come with. Mine did, so luckily I was already swapping it out. I actually discovered it during the swap. I mainly mention because I’ve seen a lot of discussion about people getting different battery life.

Yeah I think that's a good call. $37 is a great price for an Xbone controller and all you need to do is throw some AA's in it and it should be identical to the wireless one. If you check the reviewer's pictures you can even see it says 'Wireless' on the inside (behind where the batteries go) so should be the exact same controller. I can personally vouch for the Wireless dongle. Works flawlessly on W10 but on older Windows you have to get the drivers manually last I checked, but I still got it working great on W7 and W8.1. Let me know if you need help tracking down the drivers.

Check out the Duracell Procells on Amazon (will link in a minute when back at my PC). I read a lot of reviews before picking up my first box. Reviewer's tested them pretty thoroughly and determined they're identical to the regular Duracall batteries aside from the wrap, and they're typically much cheaper because they're intended for the industrial market and sold in bulk (boxes of 24 for the AA's I think).

Edit:

• Regular Duracell 20pk is $12.04 on Amazon. Works out to $0.60 each.
  
• Duracell Procell 24pk is $10.61 on Amazon. Works out to $0.44 each.
  
  Maybe not "much cheaper" but still, a few dollars cheaper for 4 extra batteries that perform identically and are from the same company :). Both are Prime Eligible so free shipping if you have Prime.
  
  Don't waste your money on the Amazon Basic crap. I've seen too many reviews of batteries and charger cables blowing up. I've never heard of a Duracell battery exploding. I've had one or two leak in my life but I've never seen or heard of one exploding that wasn't seriously abused. I've also never had a charger cable light on fire but if you check enough of the Amazon Basic cables reviews you'll find reviewers who had their cables light on fire or melt. Not worth saving a few dollars in my opinion.
  
  Edit2:
  
  Also while I'm on the subject of charger cables, the Anker Powerline is the best cable I've ever had. Most iPhone cables die out within a few months, but I've had one of these 10ft Powerline Lightning cables for nearly a year and the cable itself is still going strong. One of the sides of the lightning connector finally began deplating and the actually connector plates have worn out on one side. I've never had a cable last long enough to begin deplating :P. Luckily Lightning cables are reversible and the other side still works great :P. Here's the 10ft Powerline Micro-USB version if you need that version instead. This one is only $8 on Amazon! The XBone controller is Micro-USB also so this cable should work great, and I expect it to last a year or longer. The connector will probably begin failing before the cable itself, if mine is anything to go by.
  
  The Powerline cable claims to be Kevlar reinforced and I believe it considering how much abuse mine has taken. My sister insists on plugging her phone in and using it at the same time, causing a sharp bend in the cable right near the plug, but it hasn't seemed to effect the cable in the slightest.
  
  Most of the cables I have don't last nearly that long with daily use. Plus it's cheaper and longer than the original iPhone Lightning Cable from Apple, if you can even find one on Amazon that isn't a knockoff. Of course they also make a 1m variant if you're into shorter cables.

just the other day i discovered the aaaa..about 75% the diameter of a aaa. someone gave me a nice but old laser pointer.. tried to put in aaa and they were too big. looked at box and TIL. Not quite as interesting as a 2/3rd a battery though

what about this guy?

​

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-4000mAh-6050100-Rechargeable-Lithium/dp/B0798GDLGK/ref=sr_1_3?crid=ZIKD3N7VRZCU&keywords=3.7v+lithium+ion+battery+4000mah&qid=1565489214&s=gateway&sprefix=3.7v+lithium+ion+battery+4%2Caps%2C208&sr=8-3

The lightest one with the best battery life would be a A675 Hearing Aid button cell. Such a Buttoncell with 660mAh should last 110 hours on paper and a otherwise stock G305 weighs about 70g with this mod.

Soldering would be required though since you would have to replace the AA Batteryholder.

EDIT: No, using other batteries does not affect the performance of the G305 and it does not harm it. I'd recommend going for a Lithium AAA battery since it's the lightest AAA afaik.

Batteries

FYI. On Amazon you can buy some cheap-ish adapters for AA size batteries that will allow you to use them in electronics that use C and D size batteries. Obviously battery life is shorter but if you use re-chargeables you can always have some ready and you end up saving in the long run.

(https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-Eneloop-Spacers-Rechargeable-Battery/dp/B00WF0V3YU/ref=sr_1_8_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1510622094&sr=8-8&keywords=C+battery+spacers)

We quite need some batteries pretty badly. It sucks having flashlights and things and no means to operate them.

I took a sip of something poison, but I'll hold on tight!

I bought a 12v 12ah battery for my daughters jeep. I got mine at Frys electronics because I had bought her jeep at a garage sale and she and I were both too excited to wait but you can get them on Amazon too. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A82A2ZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ka-mxbEQ3Q988
I put a 30 amp fuse inline after I cut the factory plug off also. Next project is to wire a couple up to try out 18-24 volts to see what kind of speeds we can get out of it.

Those look like 12V ~12Ah lead acid batteries, arranged in series for 48V total voltage.

You could buy replacements like this one (measure yours to make sure it's close in dimensions first).

Or you could replace it with a Li-Ion battery pack like this 48V 10Ah model.

As far as range with either of those options I would estimate around 15-20 miles at a speed of ~20mph on flat ground, large hills will reduce it a fairly large amount.

uxcell Power Supply DC 3.7V 4000mAh 6050100 Li-ion Rechargeable Lithium Polymer Li-Po Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0798GDLGK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iX7qDbD3PK2JP

That's the one I bought

I'll make an attempt at specifying a system for you:
This will be sized PER FAN, I'm using a Noctua NF-F12 @ 0.05A & 12V which equates to 0.6 Amps. This is 14.4AH.

Safe depth of discharge (DOD) on a deep cycle battery, generalizing here based on battery chemistry, it about 80% with a longer life at 50% DOD. This 18AH battery will last a few years. Because of the Ringers you should double this battery size per fan.

To charge the battery get a MPPT charger rated for your solar panel amps. The MPPT charger has a minor efficiency loss so add 20% to the amps needed. You need 216 WH of energy (12V*18AH) divided over 5 hours of peak sun and you need about a 50W solar panel.

For cloudy days I suggest doubling your solar panel size.

Ringers:
Snow, Clouds, Cold, Heat, Dust, # cycles, shading, winter sun height, obstructions

amazon prime for students gets you 6 months free, and its half priced for prime after that.

https://www.amazon.com/Energizer-6-NEW-AAAA-Batteries/dp/B002BKF7HS

it is probably a proprietary case, but if you take it apart it is made of individual cells that you can replace the cells, from the size they may be D size, or sub C... something like this might work.

I’m not an electronics expert, but I’m pretty sure you can use a pretty small 12V batter for basic fish finders. Do some research into something like this... ExpertPower EXP12120 12 Volt 12 Amp Rechargeable battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A82A2ZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lkFKBbP4QQ48T

I was wondering if this is a good price

You might consider getting AAA batteries that can charge from USB, then you could carry a USB battery bank.

Not this specific one, but something similar in functionality

Rechargeable AAA Batteries 4 Pack with USB Charge Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XGYB5Q6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Mzm7CbK4CP145

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A82A2ZS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share is the battery I chose and this is the controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DDCH26N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Oug2CbTNATECY

These

>I recently bought a play and charge kit from eBay...the battery won't charge...Does anyone have a solution?

if the item was sold as new and/or in working condition, return it. eBay has pretty favorable buyer protection. if it was sold as-is, you are out of luck.

in addition to a stand-alone charging station, your choices are as follows:

• buy a genuine Microsoft play and charge kit, which will have a (short) warranty.
  
  
• buy four (or more) rechargeable AA batteries and a charger.
  
  
• buy a ton of AA batteries.
  
  All three of those choices are around $15 delivered (assuming you are in the USA).

Too bad they don't make rechargeable D cells anymore.

Edit: Okay, I was wrong.

Are these batteries adequate?

These are the same AAAA's that I have the 20 year supply of.

Common sense tells me they're fine, but I wanted to double check, and you seem pretty informed on this particular model.

The battery usually replaced with 3000mAh, 4000mAh or 5000mAh.

The one I'm using was from a cheap slim power bank from local store and solder the wires to the original battery connector.

Here are the link if you don't want to cut the wires.

3.7V 3000mAh 407090 Lipo Battery Rechargeable Lithium Polymer ion Battery Pack with JST Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BTN8P26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_us3VDbBD8RSJN

Here are the post that gave me the idea with a slim powerbank battery.

https://www.reddit.com/r/AnnePro/comments/bctxgm/just_got_the_60_disease_ap2_pudding_5000mah/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BKF7HS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_N2gPzbE7ZWRY7

https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-Eneloop-Spacers-Rechargeable-Battery/dp/B00WF0V3YU/

FIX FOR HEAVY WEIGHTED PEN: =============================

Since most of the pen weight is comming from the AAA battery which I'm assuming is an alkaline cell, you probably can reduce pen weight by getting a lighter Lithium Ion battery.

There are two assumptions that I'm making here: pen battery is regular alkaline rechargeable and the voltage is 1.5v. If I'm wrong and it's actually Lithium, voltage could be as high as 3.4V. Someone with a multimeter can check this out. If I buy pad, I'll update.

So, supposing my assumptions are correct, you need to make sure that you have the right voltage before looking for lighter battery as lithium AAA comes in 1.5 and 3.4v. You also need to make sure the lithium AAA is 44mm high because.

Looking into it, I found typical LiIon weight was about 33% to 66% of the weight of the typical NiMH/alkaline ones.

Pack of 5 duracels non-rechargeable alkaline weigh 114g including packaging (home depot). Pack of 5 energizer non-rechargeable Li-Ion weigh 41g (amazon).

duracel alk AAA weight/cell = 18-21g (depending on packaging weight) energizer Li-Ion AAA weight = 5-8g (depends of packaging) rechargeable Lion weight = 9-12g (found on Amazon)

These don't state whether they are rechargeable or not but could be worth it if they don't drain too fast just for the light weight consideration (5-8g 1.5v):
https://www.amazon.ca/Energizer-Ultimate-Lithium-L92BP-4-Battery/dp/B0002DUQDQ

Sunlabz Rechargeable (8-11.3g/cell, 1.2v) https://www.amazon.com/SunLabz-1000mAh-NiMH-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00J18PFIO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1478843835&sr=8-3&keywords=AAA%2Blithium%2Brechargeable&th=1

Seems to me the lower the capcity, the lighter it's going to be.

YOU'RE WELCOME!

this is the battery i used. looks like its no longer sold on amazon but hopefully the info can help you find a similarly spec'd one that would work.

https://www.ikmultimedia.com/products/irigpre/ + https://www.amazon.com/Headphones-Convertors-Headphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M8G1U0C + https://www.amazon.com/EBL-Batteries-Rechargeable-Battery-Charger/dp/B00HV4KFSA

The NTG3 drains out a 450mAH rechargeable 9V in about 5 hours. Read somewhere that the iRig can be damaged by high current batteries but this is yet to be confirmed. My iRig started to present some bad contact in the on/off switch after 2 years of some intense use (2 on/off cycles per working day) so I jump soldered the contacts and now it stays on as long as the battery is in it. I use it on a boom pole before a Sennheiser G3 plug-on TX. Works like a charm.

uxcell Power Supply DC 3.7V 4000mAh 6050100 Li-ion Rechargeable Lithium Polymer Li-Po Battery

You are going to be extremely limited in your opamp options using 5V without a boost converter. If you have a 2.5A 5V input at 100% ideal that is 12.5W. You are really not going to get anywhere near 'good' sound with that.

I am old enough to remember boomboxes, and they required at least 6 D-cell 1.5V batteries and ate them up fast. If I were you, I would get some 18650 Li-Ions or flat-packs, good Li-ion charger, and series them up, using a separate charger. With this you can achieve as many 3.7V+3.7V combinations as you have room for, provided you DO NOT attempt to charge them inside the unit. For this you need to buy a dedicated pack with its own charging circuit in it to take USB and not blow up the batteries by leaving some of them at different voltage levels.

You do not want to fuck with Li-Ion charging by yourself, get something pre-made to do it and use that.

How about this:

• https://www.amazon.com/EBL-Battery-Charger-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00HV4KFSA/
  
  9V snap connectors at a dime a dozen, put a few in parallel and make a battery indicator. When it gets low, swap out the batteries for charged ones and put the old ones in the charger. Here is an indicator I used for a power drill. Feel free to use it, of course change the zeners to whatever is suited:
  
  
• https://imgur.com/a/NhiU9
  
  You could also do this with 18650s but they are bigger. Do some research but really, using a 5V usb will give very limited results.
  
  EDIT
  
  You can charge them in the device if you have a charger that charges each cell separately. That is what I am doing with the above hack and a tenergy charger. Do not attempt to charge a pack of cells at once without a balance charger or a built in balance charger. This is dangerous and might lead to such minor inconveniences as lack of un-burned down residence and chronic not-being-alive syndrome.

Awesome contest!!

batteries because I can't take pictures without them and my camera just died. :-(

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0798GDLGK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Have any of you tried putting a 14500 with resistors in the controller out of curiosity?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07MCGH26Q/ref=psdcmw_389577011_t1_B019O4WISY?th=1&psc=1

They cost a little more than eneloop but seem to hold higher charge and are light.

I ended up getting these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WTRSTAU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So noted. Fortunately weight isn't too much of an issue, since this will all be in a framed backpack.

So, if I'm reading this right, this device: http://amzn.com/B0143NF1YO , has the same power storage as this device: http://amzn.com/B00K8E4WAW . Is that correct?

The small device only puts out 85 watts of power, but has 18 amp hours. So doing the math again; pulling down 40 watts (high estimate of power usage), at 120 volts...

Adjust from 18 amp hours to 1.8 amp hours from converting 12 volt to 120 volt. Amps is equal to watts / volts, so 40 watts into 120 volts is 0.33. So .33 into 1.8 is 5.45. Reduce by 30% to account for inverter, we get 3.6 hours. Is this right?

As far as I know the launch box is the only vape that uses AAs. Here's some cheap ones I like better than the regular magic flight batteries (just have to take the casing off)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X9F27GV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_W.xBCbHEMF1C7

By this https://www.amazon.com/2500mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries-Battery-Charger/dp/B00WTRSTAU/ and move on with life knowing you have this problem solved.

Half my freaking posts lately are telling people to do the above. It just works and solves all the battery problems.

Amazon has a number of them. All available with free two day Prime shipping anywhere from $.64 to $.80 a piece. You can easily buy a 6 pack or an 8 pack that will last you years

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Everyday-Alkaline-Batteries-8-Pack/dp/B00LH3DTYS/ref=sr_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1469740446&sr=8-3&keywords=aaaa+battery

https://www.amazon.com/Energizer-6-NEW-AAAA-Batteries/dp/B002BKF7HS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469740446&sr=8-1&keywords=aaaa+battery

Get these.

https://www.amazon.com/Duracell-CopperTop-Alkaline-Batteries-Count/dp/B002UXRXEG