(Part 2) Best hunting game handling products according to redditors

For those interested, here is the process I follow. This is the second skull I've done and both have turned out nicely. I know it looks like a lot of work at face value, and there is a lot of time that goes into it, but I was super nervous the first time I tried this, did a lot of research on how to do euro mounts and ultimately almost bailed out and paid someone $150 to do it for me. I ended up sticking it out and am glad I did both times. I know it's cliche, but if I can do this, anyone can do it and there is an immense amount of self pride that you get from seeing it hanging on your wall. Good luck and I look forward to seeing pictures of others who attempt to do their own DIY euro mount!

1. Using your favorite knife or utility knife remove the hide from the deer skull. I find it best to pull the hide away from the skull while making small slices where the hide is still connected to the skull. But use whatever means you like so long as you get the hide removed.
   
2. Once the skin is removed, I typically start working on removing the lower jaw and tongue. Slowly start pulling the bottom jaw open and cut away at the tendons and meat that give you resistance. Eventually the lower jaw should completely give way and separate from the skull.
   
3. With the lower jaw removed I next turn my focus to removing the eyeballs. Typically I will start by cutting away at the fatty waxy substance behind the eye socket. Once you have most of that stuff removed, start pushing on the eyeball from behind, trying to force it out through the front of the skull. As you're pushing, try to cut away at the tissue around the eye to release it from the socket. Eventually you'll be able to pop the eyeball out and cut away the remaining tissue and nerves.
   
4. Once you've removed both eyeballs it's time to move onto the brain. Depending on your budget and patience you can handle this one of two ways. The first time I just used a combination of picks and knives to dig the brain matter out of the brain cavity. The second time around I ordered the RaptoRazor Scrambler (link below) which is essentially a drill bit that you string up with weed eater string. Using this tool you can simply pour water into the brain cavity, mix it up with the scrambler, and pour it out. It took me approximately 4 to 5 cycles of this to get the brain cavity completely cleaned. But as soon as the water begins to pour clear you're done.
   
5. Now that the brain and eyeballs have been removed from the skull use a combination of knives and picks to get as much meat and cartilage off the skull as possible. Pay extra attention in detail to the nasal cavity as the bones are delicate and break easily, but there is so much cartilage to be removed.
   
6. Once you're satisfied and have removed as much meat and cartilage as possible it's time to boil the skull. I use an outdoor turkey fryer with an old stock pot. Add a box of baking soda to the pot of water and bring to a simmer just below a boil and let your skull simmer for 45 minutes to an hour. I used a 2'x4' to wedge my antlers do that they did not submerge in the water.
   
7. Remove the skull from the water and remove any remaining meat and cartilage using picks, pliers, and a steel brush off you have one available. Just be careful not to gouge the skull.
   
8. At this point you can optionally remove the ear bones by prying them out with a flat head screw driver. This will remove a good chunk of meat that can be hard to get to any other way. Some folks like the look with the ear bones but it's entirely up to you.
   
9. Place the skull back into the simmering water for 25 to 35 minutes. While the skull is simmering, fill a large cooler or tub with hot water (as hot as your hands can stand to be submerged in) and squirt a lot of dawn dish soap in.
   
10. Remove the skull from the pot and immediately submerge it into the water dish soap solution. Using an air compressor, submerge the skull and air nozzle and spray over the entire surface and into all cavities of the skull. This simulates a pressure washer and the dish soap helps to de-grease the skull while also removing the bits and pieces of hard to reach meat.
    
    Some folks will use a pressure washer instead of steps 9 and 10, but I prefer this method as it removes the grease which can cause the skull to yellow over time.
    
    
11. Let your skull dry over night (or set it in front of a space heater for a half hour or so) to ensure its dried thoroughly.
    
    At this point your skull can be mounted if you are satisfied with the appearance. The remaining steps are my preference and help with the cosmetics only.
    
    
12. Bleach your skull. You can order these products off of Amazon (links below), but I just go to the local Sally Beauty Supply. Make sure to wear gloves, eye protection, and a mask for this part as the bleach mixture can be relatively strong and caustic. Tape off the antlers with masking or painters tape to the brow tines in order to protect the antlers from the bleaching mixture. Mix Salon Care 40 Volume Developer Creme with Salon Care Quick White Powder Lightener until it's roughly the consistency of a milk shake and then paint the skull and cavities with the mixture. I used an old tooth brush to cover the inside of the brain cavity and dumped some extra in their along with the nasal cavity.
    
    Once the skull is entirely covered, wrap the entire thing in Saran wrap and place in front of a space heater. The heat is necessary to activate the bleaching agent. Heat the skull for about an hour, rotating every 10 minutes or so to ensure even heating.
    
    While the skull is heating, prepare a new cooler full of hot water; no soap this time. Once the skull had been heated, cut the Saran wrap and submerge the skull to the base of the antlers and use your air compressor to bubble the surface and cavities again to remove the bleach and clean the skull.
    
    Let the skull dry thoroughly. As the skull dries out will lighten up, but if you're unsatisfied with the color you can repeat the cleaning process as needed.
    
    
13. After the skull has dried you should have a beautiful euro mount ready to go. This last step is a personal preference, but I usually take a cherry or colonial wood stain, dip a rag in it and rub the antlers down to darken them back up. BE CAREFUL TO NOT DRIP THE STAIN ON THE NEWLY BLEACHED SKULL.
    
    This also brings out a lot of unseen character in the antlers. Let the stain set for 10 minutes or so and wipe them down with a clean dry cloth.
    
    Now you should have a beautiful skull with a nice, dark rack ready to mount. My mount of choice is the Walnut Hollow Country Solid Wood Deluxe Euro Skull Display Kit from Amazon.
    
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    Product Links:
    
    RaptoRazor Scrambler - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K3KQ6DR/
    
    Salon Care 40 Volume Creme Developer- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004OKDW20/
    
    Salon Care Quick White Powder Lightener - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004OKG9PW/
    
    Walnut Hollow Country Solid Wood Deluxe Euro Skull Display Kit - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UV9QH4/
    
    ​
    
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    Sources of inspiration/information:
    
    EDIT: Here are the two articles I found that inspired me and were sources for my slightly modified process:
    
    https://www.instructables.com/id/European-Mounted-Deer/
    
    https://www.huntaddicts.com/do-it-yourself-european-mount/

here

here

here

here if your a lefty

here

amazon sells them. may not be the same exact one OP has but they have a couple models to choose from.


https://www.amazon.com/HME-Products-Truck-Hitch-Hoist/dp/B06ZZS6M9L/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_200_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TM0WM1FQTHN1JRQ7SKNR

Not exactly a mag pouch, I actually use an Uncle Mike's Shell Pouch that used to be for trap shooting. The nice thing about the pouch is that the inside is separated in half by a small wall, which allows you to place stuff like magazines and shells on one side while keeping speedloaders and spare BBs on the other.

A clean place is fine; like a large table. It's pretty simple to not cut the intestines and bladder. Even easier and cleaner if you hang the car as from a tree. They even sell these devices that enable you to processes a carcass from the receiver hitch on your vehicle.

Link: (just to show, I don't make any money on referrals.)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006VWVFHI%3Fpc_redir%3D1411900140%26robot_redir%3D1&cd=1&ved=0CCAQFjAA&usg=AFQjCNGhCPMbe8L2cWEwlu2hKOjzZxbf8Q&sig2=4mKlL1mHwT3HIPgx33V6KQ

Yeah, it's a closed loop so you'll need to thread your belt through. Know the single sheath has velcro strips to attach to things, but it's a bit bulkier.

pebble time steel

I got this belt ten years ago on Amazon, the Volkswagen one is no longer for sale



Amazfit Bip

Fairwin Tactical Belt

Silky Yoki, 530 odd grams + sheath. Not cheap though
https://www.amazon.com/Silky-Saws-Chopper-Black-Silver/dp/B006J1HH7S

About half the weight of a decent parang. Pack a tourniquet too though...

Shame on you lot downvoting for bushwacking - there's plenty of other hiking in the world besides the ConUS, some of it requires cutting growth because there are no trail crews...

This was bought as a gift: http://www.amazon.com/Large-Tactical-Range-Duty-Gun/dp/B005724R0K/ref=sr_1_25?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1420846201&sr=1-25&keywords=small+range+bag

Currently $32 on Amazon.

Will be used at the range once it is not needed.

I was using a duffel bag, but I got this for Christmas:

http://www.amazon.com/Large-Tactical-Range-Duty-Gun/dp/B005724R0K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1395616394&sr=8-3&keywords=range+bag

It's got 2 inner Velcro pockets that are great for throwing brass into.

https://www.amazon.com/Rattler-Scaletech-Snake-Protection-Gaiters/dp/B00542NJ5W

Tell her to buy some of theseand suck it up, if your gonna be a geo in the us, you're probably gonna spend some time out west, and snakes are gonna be there. That or buy some decent high boots and wear reinforced carharts. Also you should be sure you've got a sat phone and the closest emergency department. Out there they will usually have rattler anti-venom. But its gonna be a long time. You get bit, calm the fuck down, you probably aren't going to die if you're a healthy adult, but if you bring your heart rate up and keep there, you're not doing yourself any favors.

:(

I had an awesome one back in the day that dropped into the spare tire well. It had a couple of compartments that had plastic lids to organize things. With the CV being phased out everywhere, they're available at state surplus sites for pennies on the dollar.

OK, so since that's not an option, here's what I'd suggest.

First, get yourself a couple of tackle boxes. One for your basic crime scene stuff (powders, tape, brushes, etc), one for your first aid stuff, one for odds and ends.

Next, invest in an under-bed storage tote. The long one. Measure your trunk first, then find one that's the right length. That will hold your bulkier stuff. Make sure to get one that hinges in the middle.

Then, it's all about the bags. Active shooter bag, bag for stuff you need but don't keep in the cabin, etc. If you're as paper dependent as we were back in the day, consider one of those hard-sided hanging file holders.

Take homes for the win!

I use(d) a Maxpedition Single Sheath for my Leatherman. You might probably find it locally at the tacticool store, police supply or army/navy surplus store ($18 @ Amazon).

In the vertical position, the loop will fit over the 2"-buckle. If you like the horizontal position, the loops open with velcro, and will be less hassle than undoing the velcro on the belt each morning/evening (or you could leave it loose/large enough to slip over the buckle).

thanks :) got it on Amazon here is the link https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B07QHSP2CP/ref=pe_3044141_189395771_TE_dp_1

I’d suggest https://www.amazon.com/UTG-Super-RDM20-Absolute-Co-Witness/dp/B07G4G38DC

I have the version that fits the hs507c and it is pretty decent for $17. It is obviously not top-of-the-line, but it locks down very firmly.

It's off german amazon, I can only find a green version on US amazon, but google also has some results

[belt] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B076PWD8WM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1516436560&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=tactical+military+belt&dpPl=1&dpID=51F48IDu0lL&ref=plSrch)

pants are sold out in my area but i found a [link] (http://www.uniqlo.com/au/store/men-uniqlo-u-wide-fit-pleated-pants-4073140018.html#colorSelect) to them in the AU store

I’ve been using this belt since Christmas to much love, has saved me from a few jams.

Fairwin Tactical Belt-1.7 Inch Web Nylon Tactical Belts for Men-Carry Tool Belt (Black+Brown, Waist 30"-36") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SB628N3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IGSpDb8AR4E7X

Not that particular one.

Used it to apply pressure for somebody.

Also the material could easily lift a person in a jam, assist in climbing a tree, etc. it’s super strong.

Something similar to this. Definitely made it easier for the hike out.

[amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/Fixed-Hitch-Mount-Irrigating-Gambrel/dp/B006VWVFHI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478548010&sr=8-1&keywords=Hitch+mounted+game+hoist) really does have everything.

Uncle Mike's Law Enforcement Side-Armor Standard Car Seat Organizer, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006U0Z482/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_rsp3wbEMFE5YV



I just switched to this thing (I was using my 5.11 Rush 72 backpack as a patrol bag, but it was too cumbersome). It's study, doesn't take up much space, and fits my 48oz Nalgene that's too big for cup holders. It fits the basic stuff I needs on a regular basis: accordian file, clip board, ticket book, extra patrol gloves, Leatherman, small evidence bags, Clorox wipes, traffic vest, etc. Obviously it will only work for solo cars. If you're riding doubles than I would get something larger to keep in the trunk. And don't feel like you need to fit everything in one bag. I also use a 5.11 bail out bag for my active shooter stuff since it can be worn over my shoulder. I keep my own first aid bag (agency bags are usually improperly stocked... it's easier to maintain my own snd stock it from our supply closet). My agency also gives us these bags with some basic hazmat supplies (gas mask, filter, tyvek suit, camelback, boot boots covers, etc).

I ditched my patrol bag and went to the Uncle Mike's seat organizer. I have no regrets, it's easier to find stuff and doesn't fly off the seat if I have to slam on the brakes.

I'm an arborist who lives in northeastern USA, so I have little experience with palms. I do have experience with silky brand hand saws, which are excellent. I can't imagine their machete would be much different. Here's the Amazon link: http://www.amazon.com/Silky-Saws-Chopper-Black-Silver/dp/B006J1HH7S

I travel with this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004RJ3R1O/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1420350531&sr=8-3&dpPl=1&dpID=51RXuxG9u1L&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

Also have bellroy travel wallet

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_s_ss_i_3_5?k=bellroy+travel+wallet&sprefix=Bellr

Here is the desktop version of your link

Ammo pouch ~$25

Friend had this one and he liked it. I have a very similar one from a local brand. UNCLE MIKE'S Uncle Mike Shell Pouch Deluxe 42140 Brown Canvas Card https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0048KAHOW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Di9mybSZ2Q661

I use this. It's a tactical bag, but I added some padding on the bottom for protection. The webbing is so convenient for odds and ends and the pouches work well for small to normal sized lenses.

It's spandex, so as long as you get a size that fits you, it will stretch comfortably and give you a full range of motion. Bodysuits are some of the most comfortable cosplays to wear!

I actually took my own advice and bought this belt on Amazon (plus two thigh holsters) for my Tigress cosplay. It would work just as well for Nightwing! I definitely want to do a fem!YJNightwing sometime in the near future, so I'll definitely use it for that.

If $25 is out of your price range for a quick costume, there's also this $15 utility belt.

Foam armor is an awesome idea, though with the costume due in just over a week, it might be tough if you don't have experience making foam armor. Look up some foam construction tutorials, and if you think you have time swing by JoAnn/Harbor Freight/Lowe's/Home Depot to get materials.

Oh, good point on the theater not approving of the escrimas. x) Better safe than sorry in that case.

As an ex-cop who still teaches SAR, First Aid, CPR and more, I'm all about being prepared.

I have one of these in all my cars and trucks.
It's 2 feet long, takes up no space, and would be invaluable for helping someone trapped in a car, or child or dog on a hot day.

Go through the side windows if you can. They crumble. The front, rear, and apparently the sunroof are laminated, and and a bit more trouble to remove. You may have to peel the whole thing out of your way.

Alternately, you could just get a small hatchet at any hardware store.

Be prepared!