Best industrial drive belts according to redditors

to my untrained eye it looks in ok condition, grab tons of rust remover (evaporust) and scotchbright and start cleaning it up.

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The belt you are wondering about is an adjustable belt often used where the exact length is not known or where installing a normal belt is a pain in the a** (like my Atlas Lathe where I have to disassemble the headstock and the jack-shaft in order to install a normal belt).

So far working with the Anet A8 has been an extreme lesson in patience. It's honestly a bad printer but if you're willing to spend time and a little money, you can make it decent. First up should be fire safety. Immediately upgrade to the latest version of Marlin and install a mosfet for at least the bed, if not both the bed and hot end.

I would also recommend ordering new bearings before assembling the printer. The ones it comes with are pure garbage and for $10 it's an easy purchase. Another thing that might be worth investing in immediately is better belts.

After it's assembled and you can print well enough print an X belt tensioner and a Y belt tensioner. After that it might not hurt to print some braces for the weak acrylic frame. If you're hardcore about the frame check out the Anet AM8 upgrade which replaces the acrylic one with metal for about $60.

Good luck!

Yes, electronics can cost a lot, and many of the telescope manufacturers make things, that when I look at them belong in the 1990s or 2000s, in terms of the way they work, and honestly could have been $400. It's basically the TI calcuator system: https://xkcd.com/768/

People have replaced those control systems, using technology (especially things like improved stepper control) which has come about for various reasons, like 3D printers, and simply faster microcontrollers.

Here's one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tCBgmgc8qiA conversion (I suspect based on that it was using one of the faster controllers, but mine can do fine with an Arduino Mega + Ramps (the cheap controller))

• SVP $300 New
  
• RAMPS kit: (https://www.amazon.com/Eiechip-CNC-3D-Printer-Kit/dp/B07BKVPZ71) $27 (Not the best drivers, but this can be upgraded if you want later probably also want a PPS source, but it can be dealt without. As can the board.)
  
• Motors (Honestly cheaper, but at 0.9 degrees these are a bit better than the normal 1.8 degrees) https://www.amazon.com/0-9deg-Stepper-Bipolar-42x42x39mm-4-wires/dp/B00W98OYE4 2x$20
  
• Pulley for mount (60 tooth) https://www.amazon.com/Timing-Pulleys-Aluminum-Printer-Wrench/dp/B07QH1ZJ9L $8 (2x)
  
• Pulley for motor (16 tooth) https://www.amazon.com/Anet-Timing-Pulley-Aluminum-Printer/dp/B07D294B2T/ $8
  
• Belts https://www.amazon.com/132-2GT-6-Timing-Belt-Closed-Loop/dp/B014QI4PU2/ $12 (I think those are what are needed, I'd have to look again to make sure. I use 110s, but have 20 tooth 1:1, as I use geared steppers, with upsides and downsides.)
  
• Bracket (3D printed) or something made: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2278288
  
• M6 screws and 2 nuts (<$5 at local store)
  
• Onstep https://groups.io/g/onstep/wiki/home
  
  So At 408 + a bracket (Easy and simple 3D print or easy to DIY, look at the OnStep Showcase for a number of them.)
  
  Along with a 1/4-20 screw and a dovetail (Oh look: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2039785) , and you've got all of the functionality of a one of the Star Adventurers, along with the ability to mount pretty much any telescope up to 8" with a vixen dovetail.
  
  Plus, unlike from what I can tell of almost all commercial ones, they don't seem to compensate for misalignment when tracking. (Ie, they only move RA, not DEC, unless guiding.) Here are some examples of unguided long exposures with dual axis compensation. (Also, He doesn't usually process them, these are per other discussions straight off the camera) https://www.flickr.com/photos/11381732@N08/albums/72157683118306836
  
  Though that uses PEC (Periodic error correction, because worm gears often have high/low spots, so it can be corrected by basically guiding a few times and storing the corrections, which are then replayed). If you want that stored, which isn't included on what I mentioned above, but can be added for the cost of a magnet or two and a hall sensor ( https://www.amazon.com/WINGONEER-Effect-KY-003-Magnetic-Arduino/dp/B06XHG9CYN/ $8 and magnet https://www.amazon.com/Personalized-Multi-Use-Whiteboard-Magnetic-Refrigerators/dp/B075PMV2BC/ $8 ) Otherwise you'd have to retrain it each time.
  
  One thing is that the microcontroller and drivers aren't the most advanced, but you can upgrade them if you want. (STM32 about 3x as fast, but it's rarely needed, except for better alignment is about $60, but add two drivers, so call it a net of +$40 extra but that the kit adds wifi ($6 and a bit of wiring to the original) and a hand controller to it. the faster processors ESP32 and Teensy cost more but are something like 14x as fast allowing better alignment. Mind if you use Howard's Sky Planetarium, it won't matter too much, and it'll be able to process on the computer.)
  
  All new, and unless you have space taken up as your main concern the above setup is in pretty much all respects better than that suggested by dan.

You should buy a few anyway, just in case you break another one during your trip. I bought 4 from here

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ISC5B6U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eJirybW9SE7KD

I just googled 135j belt and saw lots for sale. Amazon Canada link eBay Canada link

I installed the cheap Amazon replacement belt today and wow, what a world of a difference. I got my X axis down to 258 and my Y axis down to 259 which is good enough for me. I did a test print, and the prints look nicer than before. I looked at the old belts I took off (the kit stock belts) and they are indeed the gates GT2 belts. After further investigation, I think the issue was that the stock belts were slipping out of the locking groves where they fasten to the carriage. I measured the thickness of the stock belts and got 1.33mm, and measured the thickness of the Amazon belts and they are 1.54mm. Both belts are supposed to be 1.38mm, so the gates belts are under spec and the Amazon belts are way over spec. I think in this case though, the extra thickness of the Amazon belts help the belt stay tight, even if it's thicker than it's supposed to be. I can now strum the new belts and get a guitar sound, where as with the stock ones I couldn't. And now I have like 5 meters of extra belt left in my parts drawer!

You can buy it on amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Mercurry-Meters-timing-Rostock-GT2-6mm/dp/B071K8HYB4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525473423&sr=8-3&keywords=3d+printer+belt

Also on the tevo store:

https://tevo3dprinterstore.com/collections/tarantula-spare-parts/products/10meter-gt2-6mm-open-timing-belt

Notice also that the acrylic parts are fragile and breaking those before printing better replacements will be expensive to solve, unless someone can print the parts for you ofc. So take it easy and don't tight the nuts too much. Use washers whenever you can.

https://evolveskateboardsusa.com/collections/gen2-bamboo-bustin-series/products/32t-drive-gear-abec-11-flywheels-and-evolve-gt-wheels

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ISCAHUA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blank-Pro-97mm-Multiple-Color-Longboard-Flywheels-ABEC-7-Bearing-Spacers-/281842542918

this setup will get you 15 mph, if you opt for 29T pulley from https://www.boardbumpersshop.com/product-page/evolve-gt-29t-drive-gear-upgrade-kit and 97mm wheels your top speed could be 16.5mph....I highly advise to invest in 97mm ABEC11 Flywheels compared to clones.... for the 29t pulley you will need a smaller belt https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AGP75HO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ISCA8S6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

currently yuneec ego 2 is $329 on massdrop https://massdrop.com/buy/yuneec-e-go-2-electric-skateboard?mode=guest_open

pictures of my setup with clone wheels at the moment

http://imgur.com/a/kjyxW

also, load up on extra motors with complete truck set for only $29.99 (it is a price mistake) but I received 3 already :) https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1281270-REG/yuneec_ego2cr017svc_rear_axle_carriere_for.html you will receive this product https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1128517-REG/yuneec_egocr012_complete_assembled_rear.html

I replace my motor due to water damage once about every 6 months.....

edit ... deck bustin boombox http://www.bustinboards.com/boombox-longboard-details

D&D belt is in stock for $7.
ebay
amazon

They do make official Belt Extenders; adds another whole length of belt at its longest point.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ISC54PI?pc_redir=T1


I ordered 2 of those and a kit directly from boosted.


both are scheduled to arrive by Monday I'll report back any differences.

Or buy one of these

Mercurry 5 Meters GT2 timing belt width 6mm Fit for RepRap Mendel Rostock Prusa GT2-6mm Belt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071K8HYB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lsKQBbB5MHDW2

just ordered this now realizing not sure if fiber glass, what are your thoughts on this belt??

Please keep this updated I really want to see how it all turns out. Looks like the start of a great project. I am interested to see how changing the motor mount works out.

If you have not done it already get a Power Twist V Belt. It really does make a difference on these old saws. Also when you change the motor position you can easily lengthen or shorten the belt as needed to accommodate the new position.

Are you using the belts that came with it? They're plastic and are terrible and will cause all sorts of abnormalities in prints due to stretching and slippage. Get a roll of this instead, it's a cheap upgrade, but it probably won't be your last. :) :

https://www.amazon.com/Mercurry-Meters-timing-Rostock-GT2-6mm/dp/B071K8HYB4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542164349&sr=8-1&keywords=fiberglass+belt+anet+a8

Bought this belt deflection gage because I had a loose belt in my car.

As for the holidays, I just moved on my own, so I'm asking my family for the one glaring missing piece of my tool kit, a nice combo wrench set.

I bought a pencil style tension gauge but I'm not sure if it's accurate, or if the specs I found were really off but I tried to tension to those specs and it seemed unreasonably tight so I just ignored it. For the most part I've been pulling it as tight as I can around the drive pulley in the back and the idler pulley at the front, clamping them down then slipping the belt over the idler bearing just in front of the drive pulley. That seems to be working well enough for me and the prints I've shown were printed using that method. Not ideal, but it allowed me to focus on other issues. I would like to do it properly proper though, just not sure if my gauge is good and if so, what specs are needed.


The X belt lasted considerably longer and I suspect it was only due to my custom idler bearings wearing out and the walls breaking free since I had to make them from nylon which was the only thing I had available. I had to use washers to trap the belt and they didn't spin with the bearing so I'm guessing that's why they failed at all. I'm going to be making new idler bearings from delrin once I get a proper mini lathe. I tried using a Sinwise 6 in 1 machine but they are such garbage and are pretty useless as a lathe since the chuck wobbles lol I might still opt to go overkill on the X belt though since it would be more expensive to replace due to it's generous length, but I'll go with your recommendation if you think it would be wise to do otherwise.


Belt Failure

Y Belt Path

X Belt Path shortened for illustraion purposes, drive gear on right side of image, others are idlers

Belt Tensioner


So after weighing every part on the gantry and X carriage (steppers, extrusions, plates, bolts, nuts, washers, etc.), the weights are as follows:

gantry alone - 14.7 lbs

X carriage - 3.9 lbs

All - 18.5 lbs


I didn't factor the weight of the belts or pulleys in but I'm sure it won't be a problem just add a pound or so on the top.

It's possible that the belt won't be easy to replace because you may have to take a bearing and/or housing apart to get the old one out.

YOu can get segmented belts that click together link by link.

https://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-T21992-V-Belt-2-Inch-4-Foot/dp/B001BQDS8I

You can also use two of those belts side by side

This, btw: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071K8HYB4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No problem!

I just ordered this. Not an affiliate link, and I don't mind that it's super long because I have some future projects. Want to make an mpcnc.


Amazon link, not affiliate, 33feet of ender 3 belt.

This was a few dollars more than a print cartridge. The total cost was $75:

• 3x Nema 17 stepper motors - $30
  
• [jumper wires - $5](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PLZC26F/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATHZ0BI0D2RLH&psc=1
  
• [3x L298N drivers - $10](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAGRQTO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A30Y6WWS77DGEW&psc=1
  
• [timing belt - $15](https://www.amazon.com/KeeYees-Timing-Tensioner-Torsion-Printer/dp/B07JKT5BZQ/ref=pd_cart_vw_crc_2_11?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07JKT5BZQ&pd_rd_r=52bc38fa-926b-47b2-911d-5739c65c5805&pd_rd_w=CcfAu&pd_rd_wg=ldtyV&pf_rd_p=7b1a11cb-b9d6-4645-a52e-34c86ca37029&pf_rd_r=0D7BH594WDRVCNZC2Z7Y&psc=1&refRID=0D7BH594WDRVCNZC2Z7Y
  
• Arduino - $10
  
• Roller blades from thrift store (for bearings) - $5

BEMONOC Pack of 2pcs HTD 3M Round Rubber Timing Belts Closed-Loop 201mm Length 67 Teeth 15mm Width Industrial Drive Belts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTNVBNN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4yuPBbH7ST2WF

https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcingmap-Silicone-Flexible-Translucent-Transfer/dp/B01MXLNOIT/

anything tubing like this will work too; you dont need a glass joint

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01DTKT4RW?m=A5IH7NV5NZ9IM

Finally available through Amazon for Canada.

These are expensive and for industrial use, but have never had one break:
https://www.amazon.com/Jason-Industrial-225-3M-15-Synchronous-Chloroprene/dp/B01BOQH6QE

You can actually kill 2 birds with one stone on this one. I run 4 leadscrews on a single stepper motor. If you use a single motor, you don't have to worry about synching issues (or multiple steppers being run by a single driver). Due to the gear ratio of the pulley, a single motor can easily push the bed up and down on my 15" x 15 MIC6 aluminum plate that's 1/4 inch thick.

1. Order THIS and THIS
   
   
2. Attach the pulleys to the leadscrews and then loop the belts around both pulleys and then the motor.
   
   You will need to update your firmware to increase the steps per mm on the z axis, but it's not a huge deal.
   
   Here is a pic of mine with the 4 leadscrews: https://imgur.com/dkYNHXN
   
   
   

I have an Optibelt and that UK belt recently started slipping and snapped the next day. Misti hooked me up with a Bestorq belt last time it was in the shop. I don't think all belts are the same. I am now running the bestorq and it defiantly seems stiffer in my hand than another one I bought from Marbel with no brand of info other than HTD 225-05



i also found this http://www.amazon.com/Timing-Belt-225-5M-Width-Pitch/dp/B01A0DEDH2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_4&smid=A3CZFKM4GIJ02I


or bestorq http://www.amazon.com/BESTORQ-225-5M-15-Timing-Outside-Circumference/dp/B00J9UCABO?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

This appears to be the correct belt. The photo is not the correct photo, but it is a 260-5M-15. (260mm length, 5mm between teeth, 15mm width)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ISCERA6/ref=psd_mlt_nbc_B00RDFF2OE_

I tried walking into AutoZone and Pep Boys but neither of them carried that belt.

I ordered one of those belts from the Amazon link and I will report back when I get it (next week).

The bummer is that I'm driving down to the beach tomorrow morning, and the new belts (ordered last week from Evolve) won't be arriving until tomorrow afternoon. The original belt finally snapped last weekend after 400-500 miles or so. I would have loved to take the board on the trip.


Edit: if you Google "260-5M-15," or item# 9293-2702, it will give you a ton of results for buying options.

Amazon has these if you need them faster and your in the US. D&D PowerDrive 250-5M-15 Timing Belt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ISCEP5S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_T0.kyb24T43VJ

You can get an extension that fits onto the belt. Costs about $20 on Amazon (link, but I believe they work for any driver.

This guy modded his Yuneec Ego for AT wheels and increased speed. The last picture is with the all terrain tires. I recommend getting it on Amazon over eBay so you can grab the warranty. He also lists a different drive gear kit, I'll link the other one. You could also mount it on a different deck. The big drawbacks are the single motor and the chance of thermal overload if you over stress the motor.

https://www.reddit.com/r/ElectricSkateboarding/comments/6hv5h9/yuneec_ego_mod_top_speed_160_mph_verified_by_gps/

Board:

https://www.amazon.com/Yuneec-E-GO2-Electric-Longboard-Skateboard/dp/B01GTVN5K0

Drive:

https://www.boardbumpersshop.com/product-page/yuneec-ego-ego-2-29t-drive-gear-upgrade-kit

Belt:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ISCA8S6

Wheels:

https://www.boardbumpersshop.com/product-page/97mm-78a-flywheels

https://www.amazon.com/MBS-All-Terrain-Longboard-Wheels/dp/B074G95LP5

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ISC5B6U/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1479407813&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=225+15+3m

Mercurry 5 Meters GT2 timing belt width 6mm Fit for RepRap Mendel Rostock Prusa GT2-6mm Belt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071K8HYB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_t6UKBbPA9EA1A