(Part 2) Best leathercraft accessories according to redditors

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We found 146 Reddit comments discussing the best leathercraft accessories. We ranked the 98 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Top Reddit comments about Leathercraft Accessories:

u/onejdc · 18 pointsr/woodworking

I love everything about this except the straps and screws. I would abandon them entirely, I think they detract from the piece. The poor screws don't fit and certainly don't deserve the time and effort you've put into this. I would either plug the holes or use a different fastener, like maybe these

u/dingdongdiddlydoo · 5 pointsr/BattleJackets

I use these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DS82S1R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_OZxHM6ekJCPn4, havent tried anything else though


You can see how they look on my vest in my post history

u/JaseDroid · 5 pointsr/Leathercraft

Use a wing divider to draw your stitch line.

Leather Wing Divider KangTeer 5.5 inch Leathers DIY Tool Adjustable Craft Edge Creaser Rotating Leathercraft Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CK2569L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.gN1Bb9T67MEM

Then, use a diamond chisel to punch your holes.

Aiskaer White Steel 4mm 1/2/4/6 Prong DIY Diamond Lacing Stitching Chisel Set Leather Craft Kits (4mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014549SNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uiN1Bb2NAQ60Z

I use both of these products and have zero issues getting clean stitching.

u/The_Great_Distaste · 4 pointsr/Leathercraft

If you had fun and you're looking to dive further into it I'd suggest investing in the following:

  • diamond awl like this
  • diamond chisel(only really need the 2 prong and 5-6 prong) I use these
  • good braided poly thread like this
  • good needles John James
  • Good skiving knife this ones a good starter
  • Wing dividers I bought these
  • Edge beveler Like this
  • You'll also want a leather condition(neatsfoot oil is what I use) and a finisher(resolene, beeswax, snoseal, etc)
  • Contact cement(Dap weldwood) helps keep things together before you sew them
  • Dye if you want certain colors

    For ~$100 bucks investment and you've got most of the stuff you'll need to make good looking stuff, then you just need to buy leather. I highly recommend picking a project, watching some videos on it and then if you need a new tool for it thats when you buy it. My biggest mistake thus far is thinking I could bypass buying a hole punch, the quality using a punch is so much higher than trying to do it by hand.

    As for skills. Look up Saddle stitching, easy to learn and hard to master. With those chisels it makes it really easy to get a good looking product with saddle stitching. Wetforming leather, helps make those sheaths, holsters, etc pop out at you. I like watching Nigel Armitage and Ian Atkinson on youtube, informative and you pick up little tips here and there.

    You'll also need to learn to keep your knife sharp! So project 1 if you invest is make a strop and get some jewlers rouge to polish that edge to a razor!
u/Blackeye30 · 4 pointsr/Leathercraft

Here's my starting out basics list:

Must have:

A cutting mat - I have this Cutting Mat which has both standard and metric measurements, very handy for watch straps which are in mm

Ruler - Something like this you probably want cork-backed metal for non-slip and to protect the leather surface, size is up to you

Cutting Tool - I recommend both a very sharp knife like a Stanley utility knife which you probably already own, plus a Rotary Cutter - way more useful than you realize. This is a deep rabbit hole, there are a huge selection of fantastic cutting tools out there, I would say if you get serious this should be an early upgrade but for getting started, a rotary + detail knife is a good start

Wing Divider - Marking patterns, stitch lines, a million other uses, something like this

Fastening - if you're stitching, you need waxed thread and blunt tip needles, as well as an awl (this is one tool that is not worth cheaping out on, get a Barry King and be done with it) and a set of pricking irons, generally a 6-prong (or so) for long straight runs, and a 2-prong for corners. I'm not recommending a specific brand here because the price range is large, and I think there are a lot of newer players making good quality products. I started with Seiwa chisels and they served me well until I upgraded to Muxi Irons, will probably go KS blade punch at some point.

Alternately you can use rivets and a rivet setter (make sure the sizes match); either way you'll want contact cement as well, barge or weldwood are good choices from any hardware store

Helpful items:

Wax paper - you can use it to get nice straight lines with your contact cement

Stitching Pony - I did without one for the first few months but it's a lifesaver, this would be an early priority if you're stitching things

Thread nippers - cheap and convenient These

Skife/Skiver/Skiving knife - Used to thin the edges of pieces and reduce bulk/combine more seamlessly This or This

Isopropyl alcohol - used for cleaning surfaces and diluting dye, if you choose to dye your pieces

Other stuff:

Edges - Edge finishing is whole art in itself, there are different techniques depending on preference and the type of leather used, and accordingly will require different tools. If you're going for the rustic look, you can leave your edges unfinished. Where I live in Portland, lots of people actually prefer that look, but to each their own. Veg tan is most often finished by burnishing the edges, with involves sanding until completely smooth, then wetting with water or gum tragacanth, and rubbing briskly with something smooth, generally a wood burnisher, followed by some wax and another burnish with something like canvas to seal the edge. Chrome tanned leather is generally finished with edge paint or by rolling the edge over so there is no exposed edge.

Dying - If you're using fiebings, MAKE SURE you get the "professional oil dye" line, the standard line bleeds color like crazy. It's an alcohol-based dye so you can dilute with isopropyl/rubbing alc and you can also combine colors without issue to create your own. Two coats gives a nice deep color, and once it's dry buff it with a dry cotton rag to get off any excess. I use pieces of 2" foam to apply it, those tiny daubers don't do much for larger pieces. Also get some nitrile gloves, you'll thank me later.

Beyond that, you start getting into lots and lots of specialty tools, which you'll be able to identify when you get there for specific application. But hopefully this helps and gives you a basic rundown.

u/HYVR · 3 pointsr/OculusQuest

I would say it's as close to the vive w/ DAS as the quest could be comfort-wise, an immense improvement overall. The face cushion of the vive is more plush but that's the only difference IMO.

Links are in the description, but here they are as well:

u/TamathaReaver · 3 pointsr/BDSMcommunity

About 8 years ago I made my own leather harness, thinking I would save some money, but it still was pretty expensive. I kind of "hacked" one together, using bondage-style belts. The length of the belts, and how many belts, O-rings and screws you will need, will vary depending on your design. Be sure to design it on paper, so you can figure out what quantities of each component will be needed.

Tools:

  1. Box Cutter (or an x-acto knife).

  2. Large Screwdriver that will fit the Chicago screws.

    Materials:
    A. Dickies "bondage style" belts.

    These have two rows of holes that run the entire length. Plus they are black leather. They are available on Amazon, and look like this:
    Amazon Dickies Belts

    They seem kind of expensive on Amazon. I got mine on clearance from Wal-Mart, for around $5.00 each (again, about 8 years ago). For my "full body harness," I purchased 12 belts of varying lengths. Eight for my torso, one for my crotch, and two for my shoulders. The last belt was cut up to make vertical connectors between the O rings. Obviously fewer belts would be needed for a chest harness.

    What I did was cut the leather about 3 - 4 inches back from the buckle, and this would be connected to an O-ring. I then measured, and cut the remaining belt remnant to connect to another O-ring. When I cut the other part of the belts, I made sure to retain the front edges of the belts because they already had a nicely finished edge (hope this makes sense). I allowed a few extra inches leeway when folded over the O-ring, in case I wanted to adjust them. When I cut the leather with the box cutter, I kind of "shaved" off the exposed edge that would be pressing into my skin (be careful when cutting leather!).

    B. 2" diameter welded steel "O" rings. I got mine from either Home Depot or Lowes at the time. On Amazon, they look like this:

    Amazon 2" O rings

    How many you will need will depend on your design. Also, if you have male genitalia, you might want to add an extra "O" ring that will be a cock ring (when you size the ring, get a more specific size that will fit, and allow some space for the leather belt material that will be going around it from above and below). If you have female genitalia, you might add a dildo-holder. I myself didn't add this, but you might research options.

    C. Chicago style screws.

    On Amazon, they look like this:
    Amazon Chicago screws

    What I like about these is that they can be screwed together and then taken apart for adjusting the leather length. There are many sizes and several different styles. Search around on Amazon. The length of the post is important. They will go through the belt holes, and fasten the belt once folded over on itself, when connected to the O rings. I found some at a hardware store to test, and then I ordered a bunch online. Sorry I can't remember the exact length, but you will want them to screw together and pinch the leather tightly. They are easy to fasten / unfasten with an appropriately sized screwdriver. Once I did my test-fitting was satisfied with the length of the straps, I added a dab of loctite to keep the screws from un-screwing (they can wiggle loose during constant use, taking the harness on and off, etc.).

    Another option is to add a butt-plug holder. I didn't add one to mine, but you might shop around for what might work.

    A couple tips: A trick I learned to protect the leather going up my crotch and backside (i.e. like a thong) is that I cut off the end of a non-lubricated condom, roll it out, and slide it on. This helps protect the leather a bit. However if you don't do this, and the leather gets dirty, it is easy enough to unscrew the chicago screws, clean the leather and re-attach. I've also bypassed the leather crotch strap, and instead tied two pieces of black disposable rope in between the two O-rings where the leather crotch strap would normally be (two pieces of rope, so that they could go on either side of my genitalia, and then run up parallel up my butt crack). This makes it easy to avoid having to deal with leather that has been on my "wet areas."

    Because I was able to score a bunch of belts for cheap, mine wasn't too expensive. But if you add all the costs for belts at Amazon's current prices, plus the other hardware, it is going to add up fast, possibly to the point where it might be more worthwhile to have a leather worker make a custom one for you.

    If you make one, please share a pic!

    Edit: formatting - gah!

    Edit #2: I probably actually used 3" O-rings, to allow room for up to four and five connections of the leather belts for the O rings that will be along the torso. Most of the torso rings had 4 straps connecting to them, but the Upper chest and upper back rings had five (because of the shoulder straps). I can't remember, and I would need to find my harness to double check. The connections with five straps was tight; 4" rings might be a better option if you want to see a bit of the rings in contrast with the black leather. Recommend doing a test with an O ring from your local hardware store before buying them in quantity online.

    Edit #3. The harness I made was a simple design, but "heavy" and iconic-looking. I couldn't quite find an example on Etsy, and they were looking more like "fashion harnesses" with skinnier straps, and fancier designs. Mine looks similar to the one made by this redditor:

    reddit post by another person who made a harness for his girlfriend

    Here is the image of the harness he made. Mine looks very similar, except mine has a fourth torso wrap, two rows of holes running the full length of the straps, and a crotch strap (which I rarely use, and instead use two pieces of rope to connect). I think my O rings might have been slightly smaller, but were sized for the Dickies belts I used. I love this particular look:

    Another redditor's custom made harness on Imgur
u/Minor_D_X · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

No, I got a set of this.
REAMTOP 39pcs Hole Hollow Punch... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WWH72Y3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/kllaya · 2 pointsr/Whatisthis

It looks a lot like a really old half moon leather knife similar to this new one.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G3DVSPY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_MHzDDbZRZ4CGV

u/Yeg123abc · 2 pointsr/Leathercraft

https://www.amazon.com/LOXX-Fastener-Upper-Nickel-Closure/dp/B07BN6V286 you can find them on ebay ascwell or direct from manufacturer in Germany (but $$$) and I think sail-rite sells them

u/jm_cf · 2 pointsr/Leathercraft

I'll echo the other posters here -- the wooden one works great. That said, consider what weight leather you plan to regularly cut. If you're mostly focused on 8 oz leather or thinner, the wooden one will work fine. If you ever plan to cut thicker leather, (or even if you don't, but are looking to step up a little bit in quality), I would highly recommend going for a draw gauge: https://www.amazon.com/C-S-Osborne-Gauge-Leather-Cutting/dp/B07BZTBHTZ/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1523934363&sr=8-12&keywords=draw+gauge

It's fully metal and a lot more stout than the wooden one, but generally of the same design as opposed to the bench mounted version you linked. I can easily cut up to 14 oz. leather with the draw gauge, and it has completely replaced the wooden strap cutter in my shop.

As a bonus, I find the pistol grip style handle to be much easier and comfortable to use than the handle on the wooden one.

u/D-Kitchell · 2 pointsr/Bladesmith

Leather I use

Import Vegetable Tan Cowhide... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M27PBG9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Sewing pony (I highly recommend ha)
360° Rotation Wood Leather Craft... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CBPF6B2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Snaps
Hotop 100 Set Snap Fasteners... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078Z9L2HP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Glue
Tandy Leather Eco-Flo Leather... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CD8ZC2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Tool set
Leather Sewing Tools SIMPZIA 24... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDMB7H5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Plus...I use a drill press for the holes

u/nicebowlingshoes · 2 pointsr/cosplay

Give these a try. Black gun metal Chicago screws. Might have to find long ones, but they’ll finish a bit better than standard hardware.

u/critterwool · 1 pointr/cats

Order natural peacock feathers off of Amazon for a super fun game with your kitty. The first time my girl are saw one she literally stood up on her hind legs walking across the floor trying to get at it. When you want to get the feather away, pull it straight back toward you and it will slip through their claws and teeth. Eventually the quill will break from play so it's good to get a pack of them, they are not very expensive.
ALL in ONE 20pcs Natural Peacock Tail Feather https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HSNADGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_NHlSCbJAG6FXW


Also purchase natural feathers off Amazon with no dyes, they have been collected by hand from shedding (no cruelty) and then steam sterilized for your safety. I use a leather string used in bookmaking to wrap the quill and attach it different toys for my girl; it is perfect for wrapping feather quill's easily, snuggly and ties off very well.

Coceca 180pcs 6 Styled Feathers Assorted Mixed Feathers for Dream Catcher Crafts https://www.amazon.com/do/B078HR3VXN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_5IlSCbH7EBZDW

550Yards Leather Sewing Waxed Thread - MIUSIE 150D 55Yards Per Spool Stitching Thread for Leather Craft DIY/Bookbinding/Shoe Repairing/Leather Projects https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GDGDSDG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ENlSCb7YHJNSX

u/CosMicrowave · 1 pointr/guitarrepair

nice, like a triangle file or like a stew Mac deal? I've been thinking of getting a leather burnishing bit for my dremel and gluing a strip of sandpaper in the groove for rounding off edges. I guess the obvious concern would be zapping off too much material but I don't know I'm lazy and it's worth a shot I think -worst case I toast a few frets on a junker. this is what they look like if you're unfamiliar. the rest is self explanatory. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D57S2SF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hheUCb5KBY5PR

u/rekcomeht · 1 pointr/woodworking

if you want to do it that way, check out chicago screws. i don't know if there's anything 'snap in' but that might be a bit cleaner looking than inserts / bolts.

u/drwilhi · 1 pointr/Leathercraft

Yes, you can buy acrylic templates on amazon or ebay and I have used those. I have just started making them on my 3d printer