(Part 2) Best light sockets according to redditors
We found 472 Reddit comments discussing the best light sockets. We ranked the 174 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
i have a x264 1080p20fps wifi 2.4ghz webcam; it's live broadcast effective range is 50' but
it can also record to an internal microSD card that i can offload videos from wirelessly later.
btw anyone impressed with OP's idea can simulate it's effect for about $50
buy any wifi based webcam, and any light socket power outlet adapter
https://www.annkesecurity.com/wireless-security-camera.html
https://www.amazon.com/GE-54180-Socket-Adapter-Control/dp/B002DN2OIS
one last bit of practical advice about this idea;
it's often a bad idea to angle the webcam from the light source.
optimally you want the webcam nearly eye level with the subject
most lighting is either above or at a 45° angle from the subject.
That is because there is no ground on the lamp socket itself, only hot and neutral. Use something like this instead if you need a grounded outlet. You will probably need to add in a ground wire to the fixture (there should already be a wire nut there connecting the feeder with the ground pigtail for the box, add this in there), otherwise it's a direct swap.
I used a motion detector adapter for a socket in my coat closet. Worked OK. It shut off after like 10 minutes. I am rewiring, so I am switching to a motion detector switch which works well when the switch is in the same room as the light. Both readily available at a home depot.
A better option for your situation if the switch isn't in the room with the light would be to get a timed light switch. If you want to go all out and don't mind doing wiring, you can put in an overhead motion sensor.
Another simpler option is just to put in a lighted switch. Look at the switch and you can see if the light is on without opening the door to the garage.
Materials list:
4 x 5 gallon buckets from local food store. Cost: $0
4 x 36W [grow lights](LED Plant Grow Light Bulb, ieGeek 36W Full Spectrum Plant Lamp Miracle Indoor Gardening Light High Efficient Eco-friendly E27 Plant Light for Greenhouse Hydroponic Indoor Plants Organic Aquatic Grow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FDBID40/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LFzPzbAGW8MD7) from Amazon. Cost: $27.96
1 x [4 way light socket](eTopLighting Porcelain Four Head Light Bulb Socket Splitter E26/E27 Edison Base 4-in-1 Lamp Splitter Bulb Adapter, 250V Max 660 Wattage, APL1674 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XXP953/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_JdNJzDMcUu6SN) from Amazon. Cost: $8.49
1 x pc fan and 12v controller I had laying around. Cost: $0
1 x roll of duct tape. Cost: $3
1 x 24 hour timer stollen from christmas decorations. Cost: $14
1 x power strip. Cost: $6.99
1 x lamp light kit from Walmart. Cost: $8.99
Total cost: $69.43 + tax
It's hard to tell from your photo, but the old-style light bulb socket might be a good bet here. It seems like if you take out the bracket you can screw this directly to the box.
You could use an adapter like these.... Won't look good in every lamp, but in some it won't matter
http://www.amazon.com/CANDELABRA-MEDIUM-SOCKET-ADAPTER-INDUSTRIAL/dp/B00EQIWA78
So the bulb says its 100w but in the q&a section someone says its probably 40-60w. I would guess closer to 40w, most LED sellers label somewhere between 2 and 6 times higher than actual wattage.
If you want cheap you are probably better off with the CFLs, if you want easy id get a half decent ufo led that actually draws close to 100w.
You may get somewhere between 0.5-1g per actual watt.
You could look at a E26 splitter but they can be a bit bulky and take up valuable headroom.
https://www.amazon.com/eTopLighting-Porcelain-Splitter-Adapter-Wattage/dp/B071XXP953/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1526469819&sr=8-6&keywords=E26+splitter
Since I recently started tugging regularly again, I've been working on developing a routine that works for my schedule, yet has good growth.
I do MM3 & MM5 a few times at work during the day, but far more in the evenings and on days off. I also wear my TLC-X 1 to 4 hours per day in 1 to 2 hour cycles.
About 6 weeks ago, I got a redlight, and I've been trying to integrate it's usage at night before bed, after what is usually my most intense tugging session of the day, evening tugging whenever I can. So far, I'm only using it about twice per week on average, but I'm working on getting more consistent.
So far, my anecdotal evidence is that is seems to reduce soreness. I feel I've been making good progress overall, but it's hard to tell what is related to my actual tugging versus what is from the redlight. The reality is likely that they go hand in hand. The red light helps keep the skin healthier, thus it is more receptive to tugging.
When I use it, I pull my penis through tight underwear, but the scrotum stays inside the underwear. I then cover myself with a blanked, and use the red light within inches of my penis. Ever 30 seconds, I alternate sides, top, left, right, bottom, front. I try to do it some with the skin rolled forward, and some rolled back. In total, I'll do it for about 10 to 12 minutes. After which time, the heatsinks on the bulb get quite hot. That is my sign to stop, as this is the time I've read is pretty safe. Plus, I don't want to get burned by the bulb's red light or physical heat.
I'm just using an inexpensive amazon set one of the other members here recommended:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H2Y5U4M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J1LZA4A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I didn't buy any protective eyewear, though I keep it under a blanket the whole time. My daily glasses also have UV protection.
So far, I'm happy with it. Keeping the skin "happy" during tugging regiments is important. "Happy" skin is more likely to grow favorably. For $30 and relatively low risk, I think it's worth it for many.
you can even get them in a style that still lets you use the light bulb
worst 'lifehack' ever
Hi there! First off, let me say that your candor and your respect for your competitors is awesome and it definitely will make me consider buying more Inovelli gear in the future.
Secondly, while it's not really related to the topic at hand, I was wondering if you have any plans to make a Z-Wave screw-in lamp module? There used to be a few options available, such as this, but I don't think anyone is making anything currently.
I can't speak for others but, in my experience, people often have lamps which are difficult to include in HA systems, since you can't control it both locally and remotely (with a plug/outlet) without things getting out of whack; just like using smart-bulbs with regular switches.
I feel like that product has some demand, just in case you're looking to expand your line.
Cut slits in the bottom of that cup and put it in another cup without holes so the water can drain through. Water when it's dry, not on a schedule. If you need to add another CFL to prevent stretching like another user said, something along these lines work well.
Maybe something like this
Nyce Power LampCharger Light Bulb Socket Adapter, Light Socket USB Charging Station, USB Charger Ports, Tablet and Phone Charger Adapter | 60W Max (Lamp Charger with 2 USB Ports) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P9SDHRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_P0nSDb34GP2TB
JACKYLED GU24 to E26 E27 Adapter 4-pack Heat Resistant Up to 200℃ Fire Resistant Converts GU24 Pin Base Fixture to E26 E27 Standard Screw-in Socket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007HA3UYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_Pd2ZCbEPNE729
Firstly before anything. Cut the power to that line. Via the switch in the wall, or better yet at the panel.
You can buy a power ticker really cheap to test to see if its live.
Honestly buying a light like this is cake to install.
Just attach the grounds(Copper wires) together, cap them and electrical tape the cap if you wanna get serious. Then attach the neutrals (white wires), cap and tape them. Finnally the hot(black wires), cap and tape.
Screw the lighting fixture to the box. And bingo.
Then just turn the power back on at the panel and screw in a lightbulb.
So it seems MyMiniFactory is being banned on the subreddit, so my comment was being removed, here it is without the links and a link to my twitter instead where you can find a link to the stl
https://twitter.com/leo_cadle/status/1114146005178388481?s=19
This is the base for some modular moon lamp bases I have made, or others have made. It is for the 5" Moon lamp by @moononournation with 65mm lamp, high detail here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2955930 It can also be used just to hang the moon lamp by itself. You can also use the stand by @momomona https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2818901 you can find the lamp chord with switch here https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Hanging-Lantern/dp/B07BLJH57Z/ref=sr_1_15?crid=3N2212OR6UE93&keywords=lamp+cord+with+switch&qid=1554467049&s=gateway&sprefix=lamp+c%2Caps%2C367&sr=8-15
Okay, thanks! I'm brainstorming how to do it for my own carport. I was actually thinking about using one of these on one of the floodlights and hooking it up there....
Nyce Power LampCharger Light Bulb Socket Adapter, Light Socket USB Charging Station, Desk Lamp Adapter with Dual USB Charger Ports - Lamp Socket USB Port Tablet and iPhone Charger Adapter | 60W Max https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07P9SDHRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wqS3CbAYJRN12
If the closet has an overhead light, you could also use something like this:
GE 54180 Socket Adapter with Pull Chain Light Control and 2 Outlet, Ivory https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002DN2OIS/
I don't understand - can't you just turn that into two separate dimmer switches? Maybe you'd need a neutral wire. For the e11, I had a ceiling light that I bought a converter for on Amazon. It adds an inch or so to the bulb length so make sure it fits. Something like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EQIWA78/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LIV3ybV09MKR6
I had some lights like this in my house... I ended up buying some standard sockets and wiring them up, bypassing the voltage converters all together. Something like this should work well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FMRLSWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_gxp1CbQ4DM9TY
A light socket!
You just need an adapter called a [GU24 to E26/E27 Adapter]
(http://www.amazon.com/JACKYLED-GU24-Adapters-Maximum-Resistant/dp/B007HA3UYE)
I'd hit up a thrift store and grab a lamp and take it apart Otherwise, you could just get a corded socket like this one
Thanks! Here’s the same red light I use: https://www.amazon.com/ABI-Booster-Flowering-Spectrum-Enhancement/dp/B071Z12H67
You can use any socket you want, here’s one that I have: https://www.amazon.com/Light-Socket-2-Prong-Adapter-Switch/dp/B00J1LZA4A/ref=pd_aw_fbt_86_img_2/146-3569767-3499015?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00J1LZA4A&pd_rd_r=2707248d-e33c-4921-959f-fc49a8ca09e4&pd_rd_w=a8nfN&pd_rd_wg=etnud&pf_rd_p=3ecc74bd-d08f-44bd-96f3-d0c2b89f563a&pf_rd_r=2Y9MQM5Z0S3SKF5B7A13&psc=1&refRID=2Y9MQM5Z0S3SKF5B7A13
As for how I use it - whenever I’m doing manual or inflation, I’ll turn it on and position it directly in front of myself propped up on a pillow or something for anywhere from 20-40 minutes, about 3-4 times per week.
I assume a full-size A19 won't fit? You could get something like this
The transformer is stuck on the side of an electrical box for a light in my basement. I replaced the socket holder with one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002N5FR/
That outlet is 'always on' (it's not controlled by the pull-chain), so I could plug a small USB power supply in and use that to power the esp8266 (via the 3.3V regulator built in to the esp breakout board I'm using)
The correct fix is to replace the entire socket.
Until then, though, how about one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1406-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B0015SHT3W ?
I just used two socket y adapters to stick two 60 watt equivalent bulbs in one socket. Cheap and easy. (Note that some of the cheaper adapters on Amazon aren't UL listed, but the one I linked is)
I use this setup in the bathroom but it was a lot of hassle. I installed this into the existing light socket, bought 15’ foot WHITE micro USB cables and ran them into the ceiling and wall fished them out where my White Echo Dot and white Bose SoundLink color are mounted on the walls.
It was a pain in the ass but anything less wouldn’t have passed inspection for my better half. There was a strict No cables everywhere policy on the bathrooms.
If I had it to do over again, I’d just install a regular Echo and skipped the extra wall fishing of a second cable for the speaker. It would have been much easier and considerably less expensive.
I second this, but I would use 2 or 3 of them at least. Get a lamp that can house them, or get some direct connectors like these and use a power strip.
GE Adapter, Converts Outlet to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002DN2OEM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Get one of these.
I was typing up my list of shit for my second grow. Lets see if I got my Reddit Formatting Correct. :)
The Details
Seeds
Gear
Veg/Flowering
Seedlings
Medium and Nutes
Meters
Pots
Misc
Maybe you could use an adapter: https://www.amazon.com/CANDELABRA-MEDIUM-SOCKET-ADAPTER-INDUSTRIAL/dp/B00EQIWA78
Or
Leviton 9726-C One-Piece Glazed Porcelain Outlet Box Mount, Incandescent Lampholder, Pull Chain, Top Wired (White) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00002N5FR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_i8oSDb9Q1172X
Anyone know where to find a simple socket to power outlet adapter like this with a switch (pull-chain etc). Something like this, but can be turned off and on.
I've bought one of these, but all similar products to this only switch the bulb socket on and off. I need something to switch an outlet socket.
I've considered these, but these but it also doesn't switch the outlet on/off.
Anything out there that will do what I'm lookin for?
appreciate it,
matt
It is this, screwed into this, without the reflector; the clamp light has an 8' foot cord. I got them both from my local home depot.
JACKYLED 5 in 1 Light Socket Splitter E26 E27 Adapter 5 Way Light Splitter Converter for Standard Light Bulbs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BFMY8TR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kKlXDbHGMKS6J
I bought two, each socket is rated for 60watts I had 3 55watts and 2 23watts in one and “pop” after 6weeks. The other with 5 23watt bulb is fine. You and I are dealing in low wattage. CFL aren’t the best possible. They effect the photomorphism off the plant. CLF tend to produce less growth. But they are very easy to work with. Being able to get within 5” and not having to worry about burning.
Over the past few years I have tried nearly every brand of LED bulbs out there. I've came to the conclusion that I only trust Kobi Electric LED's. They are the only ones that I have found to not put out a hissing noise when used with dimmers. Even some bulbs that are marked as dimmable still make annoying hissing noises.
Anyways I would suggest these: http://www.amazon.com/Electric-16-watt-75-Watt-40000K-Dimmable/dp/B00O8SQCYI/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1427729542
And these adapters: http://www.amazon.com/5-Pack-GU24-to-E26-Adapters/dp/B008PES6VS/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1427729746&sr
all CFLs are pretty much the same and cheap. What you need to look at is the soectrum/temp at which it shines.
For veg, you want 6500K - for flower you want 2700K
The more lights you have the better (especially for flower) - I would suggest you get two lamps and put each one on top of a plant. Use a Y adapter (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ATG0JU/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B002WDBLM4&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=19Y496F031TN1JQD0H77) and put two bulbs in each lamp.
I would suggest you start with 4 23 watt bulbs (100 watt equivalent) and see how they respond. If they are growing too slow for you, try and replace one 23 watter with a 46 watt cfl - so you will have 150 watt total with about 70 watts situated on top of each plant.
For flowering I would put as many as you can - but again it depends on size of your space, and if you plan on doing a scrog etc.
What would you recommend I do to accommodate that? Would a three way adaptor like this work out?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071Y3JTFC/ref=sspa_mw_detail_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That would work fine. I used these ceramic ones for my buckets: http://amzn.com/B07FMRLSWC
I bought two of those for about 10$ each at the grocery store. I was skeptic at first of their "100w equivalent output", but they give out as much light as the 150w incandescents I was using before. I then bought a box of 4 "60w equivalent" to replace some 100w lights. I also replaced the shitty light fixture in the bathroom in which whatever bulb I tried wasn't working except for the shitty CFLs that were in it when I moved in. A motherfucking porcelain socket with a "60w" LED bulb already lights my tiny bathroom better. I think if I replace it with a "100w", it will be perfect.
Any electricians that can help me out?
We brew in our basement and it has zero plugs, only 3 light fixtures that are randomly wired to breakers that control the rest of the house. Two of the fixtures have a 3 prong plug that I can use to hook up an extension cord. I looked into adapters I can buy and it seems they are all rated to 660W. One of those two fixtures has about 750W loaded on it between the humidifier and 2 light bulbs. We have also managed to keep a 2000W element on another fixture with no issues. Can I assume that this is very unsafe?
I need to power 2 fermentation fridges at 200W each, another yeast and hop storage fridge at 150W, and at least two CFL lightbulbs at 100W each (we have barely any light in there so I need something powerful). As well as other things like a vent fan at 115W, cellphone charger, stir plate, and weight scale. All the adapters I found are rated to 660W so it seems like it will be impossible to hook everything up, especially considering one of the fixtures is already going over the rated power. I know each fixture should technically be wired to at least 120V 15A so there should be enough current to power everything but these damn adapters are not rate that high. Here's a link to the fixtures I am talking about: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-9726-C2-One-Piece-Incandescent-Lampholder/dp/B000U39S5A/ref=pd_sim_60_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000U39S5A&pd_rd_r=T2YDB8C5VETC8RP6Q3ZH&pd_rd_w=SWsIN&pd_rd_wg=qOqLm&psc=1&refRID=T2YDB8C5VETC8RP6Q3ZH
Disclaimer: I rent and cannot make any changes to the electricals myself.
Doing a quick search I found a couple of options that might work for you. The first is a expansion socket that adds the motion sensing. You screw it into the existing and then screw in a bulb. Looking at your picture it looks like you have the clearance for it. Here's a First Alert model.
The second is LED lights with built in motion sensors. There's a few on Amazon that I see like this.
You're lucky, I have an under-stair closet with no light. So I get to debate pulling romex and installing a box or a battery powered light.
I have the perfect solution.
What about putting a reflector into the mix?
Or, for that matter, understanding the proximity to reflective walls, floor, ceiling.
I think there are too many variables here to call it 100% one way in all cases.
As for my magic grow box, I just use 2 26W (100 fake Watt) 6500K CFLs per plant hanging a few inches above at 45 degrees due to one of these gizmos.
Just my .02 but you might look into a zwave screw in module such as. http://www.amazon.com/Everspring-AN145-Z-Wave-Screw-In-Socket/dp/B00G3OEW9C I am not sure if this is what you are looking for but I know it does have a button that I think you can turn the light on and off from. Also it would be able to connect to a zwave device to have remote control of it. There are a few out there and most people complain that they are very tall so it might not work in some lamps.
How big is your enclosure? 250 watts is serious power for an enclosure. I run total of 200 watts in my 5x4x5 enclosure in the winter and that is enough. Enclosure must be sealed for it to work, but CWD enclosure must be sealed anyways. For fixtures the most economical is to use porcelain Leviton fixture. They are very reliable and withstand all you can throw at them.
Halogen lights on dimmer work nice for a day heat, paired with some t5 UVB. Ceramic bulbs on pulse-proportional thermostat work good for night heat.
Home Depot sells it.
Edit: ah only the 2 prong one.
This is the best I could find. It will require you to remove the existing light socket and put this one in, but you can put it back at the end. Just make sure you find the ground that's supposed to be inside the existing light fixture
Leviton 9726-C2 One-Piece Glazed Porcelain Outlet Box Mount Incandescent Lampholder, Pull Chain, Top Wired, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000U39S5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_B.npDb9X8JPSD
You can get a light bulb socket that has power outlets on the side, that screws in between the light and the socket. The ones I've seen are for indoors so I wouldn't put those in a unprotected fixture, but there may be some for outside too...
Or pull power off the light fixture.
Ed: Maybe something like this thing, people are using it outside in protected fixtures: Nyce Power LampCharger Light Bulb Socket Adapter, Light Socket USB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P9SDHRY
Three light kit with led panels at 400 gonna be tough.
Just make sure you are getting reasonable cri, unlikely that low. Another option that would fit in that range would be something like this:
Softbox qty. 3
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLVR1JK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_VVTEDb9K7EDK0
Bulb quad splitter qty. 3
https://www.amazon.com/JACKYLED-Light-Bulb-Socket-Adapter/dp/B07BFMY8TR
Led bulbs, qty 12, two six packs
https://www.amazon.com/Hyperikon-Dimmable-Equivalent-Qualified-UL-Listed/dp/B0779C6F3Z
Dimmer qty. 3
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-TBL03-10E-Tabletop-Control-300-Watt/dp/B00A80756O
Cheapy stands, qty. 4 (at least one will break)
https://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4
Add in some sandbags, extension cords, etc and up and running as cheap or cheaper than bad quality led panel lights. Not an elegant, durable, or great solution but way better than poor natural light and then can save up for proper lights at better budget maybe?
I have no experience with that product but just quickly looking it over it appears to be rated for 100w, which would be good for using separate cords for each bulb, but tying them together would result in double the rated power through a section of the cord. Over time this could cause it to heat up and even melt off the insulation causing fires or a short circuit. The likelihood of this may be slim but it's still not something I'd gamble on.
Ideally you'd want something rated to handle the wattage of both bulbs combined plus a bit of headroom just to be safe, so like 250w or so. Something like these should provide plenty of wiggle room: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Hanging-Lantern/dp/B07BLJH57Z/ref=pd_aw_sbs_60_1/146-3216991-8398146?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07BLJH57Z&pd_rd_r=a0bea7ee-342e-11e9-b7dd-f359c0bc3009&pd_rd_w=6Im4E&pd_rd_wg=idb9E&pf_rd_p=aae79475-6dc9-4a12-80e8-27b63108fa72&pf_rd_r=CP9WDXSAPZ6S8W34HDZH&psc=1&refRID=CP9WDXSAPZ6S8W34HDZH
I removed the 24-inch t8 fixture in my hood and put 6500k cfls. You can get an adapter similar to this for 2$. http://www.amazon.com/GE-54173-Adapter-Converts-Polarized/dp/B002DN2OEM/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1458161330&sr=8-13&keywords=light+bulb+adapter+socket.
Attached to this: This is less than 2$ at a local hardware store. http://www.amazon.com/GE-50360-feet-Hugger-Extension/dp/B000B75RDW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1458161489&sr=8-6&keywords=extension+cord
I added 4x23 watt 6500k cfl to my 29 gallon. I added aluminum foil as a reflector. So far growth is good with some algae controlled with 10 nerite snails, 2 otos, 1 SAE, and 1 pleco. I use normal excel dose, root tabs, and liquid fertilizer. Heat is not an issue. Even though cfls are contacting the glass. Frogbit grows right under it.
If you already dabble in home automation or want to get started, you could hard-wire this type of fixture each of them, then install this recessed z-wave sensor. In this case you'd also need to get smart bulbs (I like Osram LIGHTIFY bulbs. You can get on/off only ones for $20). Then you'd configure your hub to turn on the lights every time the contact opens, and turn them off when it closes.
You'll need adapters to convert them to convention E26 bulbs: http://www.amazon.com/JACKYLED-Adapters-Maximum-Wattage-Resistant/dp/B007HA3UYE
Do you have access to the fuse/breaker for this fixture? Would the landlord let you replace it yourself? Do you feel comfortable working with electricity or know someone who does?
This fixture looks like it originally had a pull switch that broke. If it was me I would probably just replace the fixture.
Here is a similar fixture to the one you have.
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-9726-C-One-Piece-Incandescent-Lampholder/dp/B00002N5FR/
ebay or ebay or amazon or amazon won't work?
Would a zwave socket work? Something like https://www.amazon.com/Everspring-Z-Wave-Screw-Socket-Module/dp/B00G3OEW9C
My (previous) garage had two single bulb fixtures to an existing switch. When I added flush mount shop LED lights I initially had a similar dilemma. Instead of going your route, I just replaced the fixtures with ones that have a recepticle along with single bulb. Then from the recepticle I was able to daisy chain the various LED shop style lights. Also replaced the regular bulbs to match the color temp of the shop lights. With that configuration my shop lights were turned on/off with the existing switch.
Example of the fixtures which I just took most of the excess chain off:
Leviton 9726-C2 One-Piece Glazed Porcelain Outlet Box Mount Incandescent Lampholder, Pull Chain, Top Wired, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000U39S5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2xVUAb9MVRN3Q
Example of flush mount LEDs I have had good luck with:
Hyperikon LED T5 Integrated Single Fixture, 4FT, 22W, 2200lm, 4000K (Daylight Glow), Utility Shop Light, Basement, Ceiling and Under Cabinet Light, Built-in ON/OFF switch, 4-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012ENQSSI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qCVUAb35VR39K
For the garage I went 5000K but linked the 4000K since some find 5000K too harsh.
Hopefully this helps as another potential alternative.
For my bathroom fixtures, just added these to all three sockets: 5-Pack GU24 to E26 Adapters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008PES6VS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_D9YRAbB6H013E Works great with my Sengled E26 screw-in dimmable bulbs!!
You can also buy adapters to use regular bulbs
Cheapest from my quick search.
DZYDZR 10pcs E26/E27 to E12 Lamp Bulbs Sockets Adapter Converter Flame Retardant Material Used for Less Than 60W LED Lamp https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07SXB5YFC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_XeLLDbHJ3QDNC
>> I was hoping to get them today, so that's why I didn't want to get them online.
> https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07SXB5YFC
?!?!?!?!