(Part 2) Best motor oils according to redditors

About this much.

Motorex Power Synthetic 4T Oil - 10W50 - 4L. 405-400 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WKLJNK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0er3CbYYNCYJ7

10w60 can be had for as little as $8/L. Though I'll admit I know nothing about this brand.

Even so, it's still always cheaper to diy.

Here are the KLR manual specs

Here are the Shell Rotella 15w40 specs

You'll notice that the Rotella 15w40 oil meets the requirements set by Kawasaki by being compliant with [API SH, SJ, or SL] with JASO MA. It has the necessary additives.

TLDR: buy shell rotella 15w40 heavy diesel oil at walmart for $12/gallon, change oil every 2000-2500 miles. Still cheaper than $9/quart

Edit: you can just get it all on amazon.

• Hi-Flo 123 oil filter for $4.17
  
• Shell Rotella 15w40 1 Gallon for $12.97

Yes a barrel of oil is a thing as in a 55 gallon drum type barrel (not wooden).

You buy them from bulk oil suppliers, etc

[O'Reilly] (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Full+Synthetic+-+5W-30/N1188/C0252.oap?page=1&results=20&sortBy=3)

[Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006ZIE8U4)

I have used Mobil 0W-20 in my 2018 for the last two oil changes. I've poured over online threads for all types of Subarus, and found that for the filter it's best to stick to OEM (blue is good, black is better but hard to find). This Fumoto drain plug also makes the process so much easier.

Oil breaks down faster when an engine is older and has that many miles on it, why are you arguing with the facts? Intervals are based on an engine that is operating within normal tolerances. The manual doesn't tell you to rebuild an engine when it starts burning oil does it? Yet that is what will fix your oil burning problem.

Also, don't forget that shortening the interval will have a cumulative effect. If you ever plan on keeping a car to 300,000 miles you better believe you're going to have a better chance of getting to that point if you select an appropriate oil and interval for the mileage.

I'm sure there is something that you are knowledgable about that I am not, but please take it from me. I have had hands on experience with hundreds of different cars of all kinds of mileage, and have hand rebuilt several engines. You decide if I know what i'm talking about.

Edit: Oh yeah, oil is cheap. Don't be a cheapskate. This is /r/personalfinance not /r/frugal, let's make sane decisions not penny pinching ones. If you can't afford $14 plus a $5 filter every 3000 miles, I don't know what to say... https://www.amazon.com/Pennzoil-550038350-5W-30-Motor-GF-5/dp/B00ELHNGSQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1465702731&sr=8-4&keywords=pennzoil

So I am not sure. As the manual for the 2013 Optima says this:

> API Service SM*3, ILSAC GF-4 or above

I did 15 minutes of googling... and the best I can tell is it means 0w-20 / 0w-30 / 5w-20 / 5w-30 / 10w-30

Some more googling revealed that the cheapest of Normal engine oils exceed these requirements.

This one on amazon is API SN (which is better than API SM) And ILSAC GF-5 (Which is better than GF-4)

So what I am saying is... according to what little I just learned in 15 minutes... Your car can take the cheapest shit you can find as long as it meets one of those requirements.

technically a synthetic rated GF-4 would work worse than a normal oil rated GF-5 from what I have read.

I say wait for someone with more knowledge to respond than me. But if it was me. I would have no issues going with Regular Oil.

Heck maybe even try to get Kia corporate on the phone. or call a few KIA dealerships shops and ask.

Engine oil

wheel chock

Motul

Thanks! Really helpful. Both are actually available online from Amazon.

Filter

Oil

>Oil changes are about $200 at my indy shop, it requires a lot of oil.

You're spending double what you should, still way too much even if someone else does it. I had an E92 M3 and while I would do the changes myself, I only spent about $90-100 on oil + filter. 2 of these for $80, one of these and you're good to go for $100. If you prefer Castrol ECS sells oil change kits for $120.

If it were me, I would return it and buy motorcycle specific oil with the same weight; 10w-30. If you don’t mind buying online, apparently this is what you need:

Honda GN4 10W-30 Motorcycle Oil - Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G8OQZOM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Q79mDb1ND9NR8

I don’t know what year your bike is, so I googled 2015 since the cbr500r model was released in 2013 and it’s 2019 I figured you were somewhere in the middle.

All small desk fans are going to use tiny induction motors with bronze bearings. The induction motor itself will last a long time but the bronze bearings wear out in a few years or less.

If you want to buy a fan and have it last a long time buy a cheap fan from walmart that looks easy to disassemble and lubricate the bearings every once in a while with:
http://www.amazon.com/3-IN-ONE-10045-Motor-Oil-Pack/dp/B0083V8MMG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393881068&sr=8-1&keywords=3+in+1+motor+oil

Is this the stuff you mentioned (and grade)? Thanks

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0052029KM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469305601&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=mobil+1+super+synthetic&dpPl=1&dpID=418-hCjucdL&ref=plSrch

Edit: reworded question

I was going to use this.. thoughts? https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-03084-5W-30-Synthetic-Motor/dp/B00ICSWGJ0/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499440761&sr=8-3-fkmr1&keywords=Magnatec+5W-30+A5

I used to always run Castrol on my GTI so I continued with my ST. & they’re very affordable on Amazon.

Castrol 03084 EDGE 5W-30 Advanced... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ICSWGJ0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Can anyone recommend (or tell me to stay away from) Mobil 1 Ext Full Synthetic?

First oil change can be early. SOA doesn't mention it but dealers do offer it at varying intervals. I'm in FL and my dealer offered to do it at 1k after the break in period.

I'm doing my own changes and did the first one at 3k and second at 6k to get me back on track. Pretty easy to do on these engines and total cost is about $30: $23 for the oil and $8 for OEM filter, the latter you can probably get a little cheaper from other sites or possibly the dealer.

Yep. These cars eat oil. Every 500miles I put 1/4qt of oil or every 1000miles 1/2qt. Check out this oil. I’ve heard good things about it and I’ve been using it Liqui Moly 2331 Leichtlauf High Tech 5W-40 1qt they also sell 5qts

I use this instead.

http://www.amazon.com/Motul-300V-Synthetic-Motor-Oil/dp/B000GU5QDA/

Look for 10w40 with a motorcycle picture on the front and you'll be fine. I'm serious, haha.

Motul 300v bruh

Edit: Linked

Use two cycle oil, the best is synthetic Idemitsu.

http://www.idemitsu-usa.com/h/35/products.htm

https://www.amazon.com/Idemitsu-30018102-75000C020-Rotary-Racing-Premix-1/dp/B07MMT3SLB/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZMRBXGW7W8TTSS43KEFQ

It's because those higher end cars require higher end oils, specifically higher end oils that can take more heat before deteriorating. When they add a turbo it will frequently require this higher end oil because the oil gets into the very hot turbo, and if it deteriorates there it will destroy the turbo. Since they have oil that won't deteriorate under heat, they also add extra additives so it does it's job longer. As for what makes the oil perform well with heat, it's mostly that they require that the compounds that burn and turn into coke at lower temperatures are not present in the oil, thus it's completely composed of high temperature rated compounds (that is what synthetic oil is for the most part).

The German cars like to rate their oil changes assuming you put in the high end oils (and in doing so, they will also require that you use it), the cheaper brands of cars rate their engines assuming you use cheaper oil (but most new cars are 5-7.5k, not 3k, even with cheap oil). If you put the high end oil into these cars they will generally do fine to 15k, just like the BMWs (but you really need the engineers from the engine design team to tell you it's ok). However, many of the synthetic oils do just claim that it will extend you to 15k, Mobil 1 even guarantees it

Yes. This is the 5 Liter jug Liqui Moly Synthetic Leichtlauf High Tech 5W-40 and this is the link for the 1L bottles

Edit: Here’s my post about Liqui Moly Synthetic Leichtlauf High Tech 5W-40 Motor Oil

Anyone have experience with the AmazonBasics Full Synthetic Motor Oil

Seeing some lexus reviews there on amazon but wondering if anyone here has used it

royal purple?

​

https://www.amazon.com/Royal-Purple-ROY01030-SAE30-synthetic/dp/B000BRV5WY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537057762&sr=8-3&keywords=synthetic+sae+30

​

I'll preface this with I Am Not a Professional, and my situation involved a bathroom vent fan, not a furnace fan, but I had the same symptoms. Loud humming when it was turned on, giving the fan a manual push would start it for a bit before it would slow down and stop. I suspected that the fan had built up too much dust and the motor couldn't overcome the friction, so I picked up some small motor oil (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0083V8MMG) and worked it into the moving parts. After a couple minutes of applying oil and giving the fan some manual help, it was back to normal.

I get the 5w30 eco-nergy!

https://www.amazon.com/Motul-MTL102898-Eco-nergy-Synthetic-Lubricant/dp/B004LEYIHW

Yamalube 10w50

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0039L9LSO/ref=oh_aui_i_d_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So would this work?
https://www.amazon.com/Rotella-550019913-Triple-Protection-15W-40/dp/B001B16NP8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466903849&sr=8-1&keywords=shell+rotella+15w40

I don't know much above this, so it is fine using 15W-40, even if the manual recommends 10W-40.
And what about 5W-40 for the winter, as the above reply mentioned?

And also, I tend to go to places that is ethanol free for gas. Thanks for the help.

I haven't seen motorex under $15/L. See amazon powersportsuperstore.

Maybe if it's too much then, you could try T6 in a rc390. My singles are pretty high strung, so I don't risk it. But rc390 is a tamer street bike.

This is mostly true. Synthetic molecules are smaller and if there are any bad seals or cracks then they are going to get in there where conventional oils may not. But most "conventional" oils sold today are blended with synthetic so it's moot.

If you wander the aisle, you'll see most oil brands sell a "V-Twin" version of their oil. It's the same oil, just heavier weight, usually 20w-50, to fill in those bigger spaces and because they're usually air-cooled and run hotter.

You can buy this fogging oil to spray into your cylinders (through the spark plug hole) to lubricate the cylinders prior to startup.

https://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22001-Fogging-Oil-av/dp/B000H7CKAY

I highly recommend doing this and hand turning it over a few times. Also, be sure to lubricate your camshaft as well. I like to use ZDDP additive so I coated each rocker and the camshaft lobes with it.

You can possibly prime the oil pump too, but that requires removing the cover and trying to turn the pump with a long driver that will bypass the gear on the intermediate shaft. I haven't been able to do it.

10W-30 will do just fine. I always preferred regular oil and doing an oil change on a bike takes like 5-10 minutes. G4N is just a name honda uses a believe.

https://www.amazon.com/Honda-GN4-10W-30-Motorcycle-Oil/dp/B00G8OQZOM

Oil, is Oil

Always refer to your owner's manual when it comes to maintenance.

This is the one I use: http://www.amazon.com/Mobil-96936-20W-50-Synthetic-Motocycle/dp/B000SKV4T8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420823222&sr=8-1&keywords=v-twin+motor+oil

I think I'd run the carbs dry. Tank your bike up and add stabil to the fuel. Now go ride it until it's almost empty (or just siphon out stabilized gas but c'mon man it's a good excuse to go ride a tankful) .. then put it on res and let it idle for a few minutes until it burns off the last bit of gas in the carbs. Spray a fogging oil or whatever you have handy inside the tank. I can usually find "fogging oil" at a marine shop or sometimes a well stocked auto place.

While you're at it you may as well spray down the inside of the engine too. What the hell.

> Research that i've done has shown that synthetics hold up better and longer, no doubt about that. Better cold starting, longer intervals, etc.

Ah, so you just felt like asking a stupid question just to ask a stupid question. Who is the troll now?

> It cannot be tested, no two engines will last exactly the same.

You've never heard of a "laboratory" or "test cell"? That video is a great example, Kia uses synthetic oil as factory fill.

> Now, I agree that there are certain applications where synthetics are superior

It is superior in all applications, even 2-strokes and mono-grade applications. The only possible exception would be in a shitbox that burns/leaks an excessive amount of oil.

> I'd say the main thing is keep up with your oil change intervals, depending on the oil you run.

Do you have any sources that show prolonged engine life from using conventional oil over synthetic? I have never found one.

> but someone who does not run synthetics is a dumbass

Correct(ed)