Best moving blankets according to redditors
We found 42 Reddit comments discussing the best moving blankets. We ranked the 18 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 42 Reddit comments discussing the best moving blankets. We ranked the 18 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
That isn't a quilt, it is actually a "Mover's Blanket". You use them to cover things that you don't want scratched or damaged while they are being moved.
To add a helpful suggestion, this x style pens from Amazon are both cheap are safe for rabbits: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IX6S8YI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Get the 24 inch version, and go over to uhaul or johanns, better yet both, and get some uhaul moving fabric (recycled denim) and some fleece to put on top. Super cozy, and will protect from accidents.
And get a cheap 6 dollar open top litter box, and some pine litter. You'd be amazed how quickly they pee train themselves. :) Rabbits don't generally pee on the floor, but if you are still nervous, get some pond liner. It's thick plastic, and you can cut it to size underneath the fabric
/u/ruthbigsby is commenting on the fact that wire bottom cages cause sore hocks (word for rabbit feet) which is an infected inflamed foot. Super unpleasant for both you and the rabbit.
Cute babes!
No way bro! Somebody is ripping you off, You’re paying wayyy too much for your pads... Pro Economy Moving Blankets (12 Pack) 35lbs/doze 2.92lb/ea 72"x80" Blue https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00IZLJSMW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rN2XDbYYKM22H
Mind you these ones are a little thinner but still work great. The 2inch thickness ones are like 80-90$ for 12..
Personally I'd go with a 4 person unless you have a pressing need to try for smaller.
I recommend having a towel to wipe them down as they come into the tent and I really like having a moving blanket down inside to protect the tent and catch dirt.
Remember to check for ticks daily and have a removal system ready.
Regarding the feedback issue. My band's drummer is way to freakin' loud and he doesn't have a volume knob. In order to compensate, we continually increased the PA volume. That didn't work and only created massive feedback. We ended up buying a bunch of these and we put them up on the walls. Feedback silenced and the band sounded great, even with an overenthusiastic Keith Moon wannabe.
Your guitar amp should be on one of these, pointing slightly upwards, at your ears. If cash is a problem, you can make one yourself, pretty cheaply.
Controversial post but I'm happy to argue my point.
Acoustic foam is overpriced for what it does. Especially Auralex.
It's ingrained by a Youtube mentality that acoustic foam is the best form of sound treatment and it's not.
I've worked with many so many actors who've only worked with acoustic foam and they discover that (shocker) acoustic foam doesn't do squat against shouts and screams. It still gives you nasty reverb. The acoustic foam is *not* enough. And they all figure out that something else needs to be added. So yes, as you mentioned, you need to back it up with something else. Either acoustic panels made with Owens Corning 703 or Rockwool. Or if you don't have the tools and don't have the time, large, thick comforters or moving blankets and pillows which cover all bare surfaces as an extra layer.
As a point of reference, look at how much Auralex foam you are getting, how much it weighs and how much it costs.
If your work is primarily just narration work and/or commercials and you don't do character work with screaming, etc. then it should be fine. But if you need to belt out yells, acoustic foam will not cut it.
What you can do are three options or a variation of three options.
Use all of them and cover all bare surfaces.
General rule of thumb. Snap with your fingers and clap with your hands. If you get little to no echo, that's when you're done and when you stop.
Method 1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBHYiWIJhUA
Method 2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z5ApIWbjvcA&t=382s
Method 3
Or if you don't have the time, the know-how or the skill to make acoustic panels (I suck at DIY and I'm not thrilled on spending too much time on them), you can do Method 3 which is what I did. Buy the Owens Corning 703 or the Rockwool (4 inch in thickness). Buy a Body pillow case like this: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Ultra-Soft-Body-Pillowcase-Breathable/dp/B07CFRBTXW/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=body+pillow+cover&qid=1556809522&s=gateway&sr=8-8 Stuff it in there. Done in 20 seconds. Make sure the ends are properly closed. (choose the ones with a zipper) Place it anywhere. Doesn't look as nice but head-to-head it sounds identical to the other methods. I've recommended this to other actors who were frustrated that acoustic panels were taking too long. They did this and their sound improved vastly and they said it was super easy to do. Credit to Markhowie for the body pillows technique. It works!
Saffire Pro 14 - good choice. Get that.
Perception 420 is a nice microphone. Seriously, it's a good deal.. But for voiceover, you should go with either a R0DE NT1a, a Neumann TLM102, or a Joly -modded MXL 910.
VoxGuard, don't bother. There is only one reflection filter that actually works, and that is the sE version. A cheaper, more deadening alternative to fancy mic filters is heavy elevator/moving blankets.
EDIT: If you want to take a chance on a lesser-known manufacturer, try the KEL HM-3C. Incredible value, this mic. I own a HM2D, which I love, and got to use an HM1X and HM3C for awhile. They both have high sensitivity and great top end. I can't praise KEL enough, they make exceptional microphones.
EDIT: for DIY treatment using rockwool insulation, check here
You may be able to find cheap foam mats at a hardware store, an overstock retailer store (like TJ Maxx or Tuesday Morning) or even on Amazon. In addition to looking for the kids play mats you can look for exercise mats or "anti-fatigue" mats that are designed for use in a workshop/mechanics shop/garage type environment. Personally I have a couple of padded moving blankets (similar to this) from my last move that I use with a layer of towels or a sheet on top which has worked well so far. I'm not sure it would hold up to the heavy pinning that lace would take (I'll find out eventually) but it doesn't seem like you would need the heavy pinning.
Before you spend $$ on the Sennheiser try this. Get some packing blankets and make a "fort"(covered on all four sides and draped across the top) with mic stands or furniture. THIS PIC isn't perfect but gives you the idea. Set your mic up inside the fort and do a couple of test takes. This should help to knock down room noise and create a more intimate sound.
It's called a moving blanket.
Amazon link
These are going to be a few different ideas for you to think about.
First of all, temporary "soundproofing" that you can remove from a rental property and take to another is nearly impossible.
Second, if you're hearing planes and trains and they are not too close, the energy you're trying to stop may not be those troublesome and hard-to-control extreme low frequencies.
Third, you might want to spend your money on the right microphone and recording technique instead of a lot on physical booth. This, of course, depends on whether your clients ever see the peculiar setup you are using.
So here's what I'm suggesting:
Continue to use your closet as your booth. You need to surround yourself with some density of sound absorbing materials. The smaller the space (and I presume you have a small closet) the deader you want it to be. Obviously treating a small space is easier than treating a big space, but to make it sound good you have to make it dead. Very dead. So buy yourself a 12-pack of these and if that's not enough get another 12-pack. Start by putting a couple of them on the floor, as thick as you can get them and still not trip, then more on the walls and ceiling. Fold 'em just right and you can cover the door, the make a flap to cover the door again on the inside. You should have three or four thicknesses everywhere, until you are sure it's quiet enough. I'll guarantee this will work as well or better than any expensive portable booth. Forget about the little foam backgrounds for your mic. They really don't work.
Next, get yourself a primo microphone. If you can possibly afford it, buy yourself a Neumann U-87, pretty much the gold standard. You are the artist, get the right instrument that will be good for a lifetime. (I have a Neumann U-67 I bought new in 1964 and it is still as good as ever and I have never needed another voice-over microphone.) One main reason the U-87 is a great mic for your application is its amazingly clean figure-eight pattern. By using the deep "nulls" on the side, you can reject sources of noise that a cardiod pattern can't. The built-in low-cut filter is very effective in getting rid of sub-sonic noise without hurting voice quality. It also has a nice proximity effect that can gently flatter your voice.
Now go in that booth and put the mic at a 45º angle to your mouth and with the back side of the mic aimed into the densest part of your blankets. Don't use a pop filter. It isn't necessary if you use the mic correctly, and it does take a tiny bit of the edge off the very top-end. Work the mic at 8-12 inches, closer (but still at 45º) to get that movie trailer sound, a little farther away for a natural, airy sound. Main rule: always aim the mic at your mouth, never aim your mouth at the mic.
Third, record (or process later) with an expander. Clients are probably going to be editing your voice-over tracks and they expect near-total silence between sentences. They don't want to have to add room tone to pauses because your room wasn't quiet enough. The expander should just "crush the silence" so there's no room rumble. Clients will think you have a big, quiet studio. Use as low a threshold as possible to eliminate any residual noise. Don't go by the meter here. Get the noise low enough so you can't hear it at normal volume levels.
Hope this helps:
Me: over 50 years of doing commercials, designing and building studios, and trying to figure out easy ways to do things.
From my experience acoustic foam is too expensive for an amount that would make a drastic difference. A much more affordable option is heavy moving blankets.
What I did was pop some eyelets into the blankets, then hooks into the walls. When I go to drum throw the blankets up onto the hooks and you're good to go, acoustic treatment without needing to have it permanently attached to the wall!
I would recommend investing in some moving blankets to protect furniture when you purchase: http://www.amazon.com/Moving-Blankets-Delivered-Available-Pro-Mover/dp/B000TK3DPA
Chips and dents from moving are no good.
It would absolutely help!
I found and article talking about ways to improve your recordings without spending any money. Start there before buying anything.
I made my first vocal booth with a PVC pipe frame and hanging moving blankets from it. That might be your most budget-friendly option. Treating an entire room properly can get costly real fast.
Or of you dont want to spend time building all of this or if you dont have the tools needed: buy moving blankets and hang them either on the walls or get a strong backdrop stand and hang them behind you. Here is the link to the blankets I have at my home studio (cheaper than the “pro” blankets but work almost the same) :
Supreme Mover Moving Blankets | 72 inch x 80 inch Heavy Duty Black and White Moving Pads| 7.5 pounds each (90 pounds per dozen) | 12 Blankets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JZRHS8Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3KX1CbYS6FE8C
Absolutely! Peter McKinnon, until very recently, used a moving blanket to dampen sound.
Here's the one I purchased, it works well. Moving blankets are very thick.
If you're car camping (and a 6 man tent says you are), then you don't really need sleeping bags. Just bring plenty of plain ol' blankets. And if you don't want to take your "good" blankets out camping, you can buy a fair number of moving blankets for dirt cheap. They aren't the most luxurious/warm blankets you'll ever use but the price is right and you can simply use several of them for additional warmth.
Basic setup for a 4-person podcast:
Total: $943.
Cheap and good solution for now, get some egg crate bed foam from walmart for 20 bucks that you can cut up, it will diffuse the sound from the corners. You'll hear a huge difference. :)
Edit: OR thick moving blankets https://www.amazon.com/12-Moving-Blankets-Professional-Furniture/dp/B07MDX9S44
Is this the type of thing you're referring to?
https://www.amazon.com/Moving-Blankets-Quality-Inches-Black/dp/B000TK3DPA
They're packing blankets that we attached to the walls of our unit using these plastic clips.
And yeah that's the idea. We knew those thin metal walls we're probably going to sound horrible so we planned in advance.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
These would be even better. The ones you linked to were 65lbs per 12, and these are 90lbs per 12: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TK5T9S/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B000TK5T9S&pd_rd_wg=qL0Jf&pd_rd_r=7M7860S0KGMV0PV8183W&pd_rd_w=7Lt0l
Moving blankets are pretty thick. Sew some velcro to it and add some to your entry way.
Give these a shot. I've had good luck covering glass windows in bars and clubs with them. Maybe a thin layer of rock wool underneath if you are looking for a little more low end kill. They are black and dissappear when the lights go down. Definitely cut at least 15-20db from 1k and up, especially in the 3-5k where a lot of feedback happens. Dampens the cymbal reflections and the crack of the snare pretty well.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000TK5T9S/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?qid=1395876863&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
Addressing separation anxiety takes time.
For your dog's safety, I suggest addressing a better crate first. One thing you may want to try is a crate like this. I’ve never used this crate, so I don’t know how durable it is, but because of how it’s designed it’s harder to chew on. You may want to reinforce the lock with two hasps one on each the top and bottom. Or four hasps, top and bottom on the left and right sides of the door, I don’t know how strong the crate is. Just make sure to secure any hasps in a way that screws don’t go through the door, one option is Liquid Nails which may be combined with small screws that won’t go through the door, but Liquid Nails should be sufficient if applied correctly. You may also want to put this crate in a corner where it can have strong walls on as many sides as possible.
There are more secure crates, ones made of all metal with solid walls, however those tend to be very expensive.
The most important things (besides a physically safe environment) are
The dog always knows that you will come back
Leave for less than a minute, and then come back, but don’t make a big deal of it. Just act like you are leaving for a while (jacket, keys, etc) and then go outside, wait, and come back in. Do this a few times a day. You don't need to put the dog in the crate for this.
Once you can leave for a minute, make it two, then five. Once you are at five minutes, put the dog in the crate, then get your stuff, then leave.
When you come back, let the dog out of the crate but don't make a big deal. Let him out, go get some water, sit down, act normal.
The key is that the dog knows you are coming back, and that this is normal activity.
The crate is a fun, and low-stress place for your dog
Fill Kongs with your dog's highest-value treats and put them in the crate whenever you leave. You want to build a positive association with the crate, and the easiest way to do this is with food.
Try covering the crate with blankets, you can get moving blankets cheap on Amazon.
Or for a little more you can get something a little nicer if you don’t want to look at an ugly moving blanket.
I suggest getting the 12 pack, dogs sometimes destroy the crate covers so it's handy to have spares.
The idea is just to make the crate dark and to help it be a calm, distraction-free environment. Whenever you put the dog in the crate, cover it completely with the blanket. It won't block sound, but keeping it dark helps.
I don't know if this product works, I'm not affiliated with the company and I've never used it before but try a Snuggle Puppy.
AKC calls it:
>This is the ideal toy for anxious puppies.
Just note that AKC's description is on a page trying to sell you the product, so be cautious.
I also suggest a conversation with your vet about anxiety meds, something that is acts quickly and doesn’t stay in the dog’s system too long. Meds are not a solution, but they can help. If the dog is so anxious he can’t focus on the Kong, it doesn’t matter how good the Kong is. The right medical solution helps the dog focus on the training. I’ve used anxiety medicine with dogs with good results.
Exercise
Make sure your dog is getting enough exercise, a tired dog is a calm dog. It’s hard to be anxious when passed out from playing and walks.
Try anything
You said you are willing to try anything, so here are some solutions that are less than proven.
get creative w/ ratchet straps and towels and you'll have no problem w/ them moving and scratching each other.
buy 4 of these moving blankets (find a smaller pack than that) and you'll have one to cover the tailgate and one for in between 4 bikes. couple ratchet straps to keep them from bouncing and you're set w/o buying an expensive mtb pad that wont be any better besides looks
I hung up moving blankets on my walls to help reduce echos in my room. Obviously not as good as foam, but it helps. Something similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IBKAPYW/ref=twister_B00L33RVBO?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
How do these look? Lot of reviews on them saying they were used for a similar purpose. https://www.amazon.com/Sure-Max-Heavy-Duty-Moving-Packing-Blankets/dp/B01GK6JRD8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1523843659&sr=8-4&keywords=heavy+moving+blankets
Absolutely