(Part 2) Best office glue & adhesives according to redditors

Three variations on the theme:

Mountain Creek:

Shopping List

• 25mm Hollow Blank bases
  
• Elmer's white glue.
  
• Gray Talus in Fine and Coarse (1 bag each)
  
• Earth Blended Turf (1 bag)
  
• Reaper Stone Grey (or any other medium grey paint)
  
• Reaper Brown Sand
  
• 5 Minute Quick Cure Epoxy
  
• Either Mod Podge or Liquitex Medium Gloss Gel
  
  This will provide enough material to do hundreds of bases. Really the only limit is how many of the Hollow Blank bases you buy.
  
  Instructions:
  
  

1. Prime the base black.
   
2. Paint the interior hollow of the base with the grey paint. Paint thin streaks of brown sand over the grey. Make sure all of the streaks flow in the same direction. You want a pattern like this. The streaks should run parallel to the direction the water flows.
   
3. Using superglue, glue the Space Marine into position on the base.
   
4. Using a cheap brush, paint roughly 40% of the bottom of the base with the white glue. Leave roughly 60% of the bottom clear.
   
5. Sprinkle a small amount of the Coarse talus onto the glue. If you can, paint the glue on in streaks like you did with the brown.
   
6. Sprinkle a small amount of the Fine talus onto the glue. Always sprinkle the Coarse talus first, then the Fine, as this will create a more natural looking clumping of rocks -- small rocks pile up around larger rocks, large rocks don't sit on top of piles of smaller rocks.
   
7. Sprinkle a small amount of the Earth Blended Turf onto the glue. This will simulate organic debris caught up in the rocks.
   
8. Allow the glue to dry for 24 hours.
   
9. Mix up a small amount of the epoxy and fill the hollow blank up about halfway. Allow this to cure for one hour.
   
10. Using a cheap, disposable brush paint either the Mod Podge or Gloss Gel (henceforth "texture") over the epoxy. The Mod Podge is easier to work with, but will tend to settle more, so use the Mod Podge if you want to simulate slowly moving water, and the Gloss Gel if you want choppier, faster-moving water.
    
    In either case, paint the texture over the entire surface of the epoxy, then go back and using a wide brush (a cheap #4 Filbert is perfect) create waves by making short, quick strokes. You want these brush strokes to go in the direction that the water is flowing, but you want to work your way backwards from the outflow point to the inflow point so that the crests of your "waves" overlap properly. Here's an image showing what I mean.
    
    Swampy Pond
    
    Shopping List:
    
    

• 25mm Hollow Blank bases
  
• Elmer's white glue.
  
• [Green Blended Turf]http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/Item/BT-GB/page/1) (1 bag)
  
• Reaper Olive Green (or any other medium grey paint)
  
• 5 Minute Quick Cure Epoxy
  
• Parsley Flake
  
• Gloss Varnish
  
  Instructions:
  
  

1. Prime the base black.
   
2. Paint the interior hollow of the base with the olive green paint. 3. Using superglue, glue the Space Marine into position on the base.
   
3. Using a cheap brush, paint roughly 40% of the bottom of the base with the white glue. Leave roughly 60% of the bottom clear.
   
4. Sprinkle a very small amount of the Parsley Flake onto the glue.
   
5. Sprinkle a small amount of the Green Blended Turf onto the glue.
   
6. Allow the glue to dry for 24 hours.
   
7. Mix up a small amount of the epoxy and fill the hollow blank up about halfway. Using the end of a brush, add a little texture to the epoxy as it sets. You can "draw" concentric circles radiating out from the Marine's legs to simulate the movement of the troop through the water. When the epoxy begins to form "strings" it's time to move on to the next step.
   
8. Before the epoxy sets completely, sprinkle a very fine amount of the Parsley Flake on the surface of the epoxy. Allow the epoxy to cure for an hour.
   
9. Paint over the Parsley Flakes with the Gloss Varnish so they look properly wet.
   
   OCEAN BEACH
   
   Shopping List
   
   

• 25mm Hollow Blank bases
  
• Elmer's white glue.
  
• Fine Buff Ballast (1 bag)
  
• Reaper Golden Blonde
  
• Reaper Brown Sand
  
• 5 Minute Quick Cure Epoxy
  
• Liquitex Medium Gloss Gel
  
  Instructions:
  
  

1. Prime the base black.
   
2. Using superglue, glue the Marine into position.
   
3. Paint the bottom of the base with white glue.
   
4. Fill the hollow with the fine ballast then pour it out so that all of the glue is covered. Allow this to dry completely.
   
5. Paint streaks of white glue across the bottom of the base. These streaks should run perpendicular to the direction of the tide. Sprinkle more ballast over these streaks. This will create a ripple effect in the sand, like you see along beaches.
   
6. Paint the sand with the Brown Sand paint.
   
7. Drybrush the sand with Golden Blonde. You want to paint the tops of the ripples, but leave more of the Brown Sand showing in the bottoms of the ripples.
   
8. Mix up a small amount of the epoxy and fill the hollow blank up about halfway. Allow this to cure for one hour.
   
9. Using a cheap, disposable brush paint the Gloss Gel over the epoxy. Paint the gloss gel over the entire surface of the epoxy, then go back and using a wide brush create waves by making short, quick strokes just as described under Mountain Creek.

Here are the PDFs of the artwork for easy printing on 8.5” x 11”. You should be fine printing at 100% and make sure it's Landscape mode.

RIGHT ARM

LEFT ARM

Supplies you’ll need:

Color printing capabilities for 8.5”x 11” paper (standard Letter size)

Two (2) qty. 20” x 30” foam core boards—I went with this size because they are most readily available at stores like Michaels and Staples or even Amazon

20"x30" Foam Core Boards and here is a 10-pack on Amazon if you wanted to do your entire row (DO IT)

Spray Mount or glue stick

Scissors and a boxcutter

A cutting mat would be helpful but is optional

•Feel free to ask questions. If I can, I’ll try to answer but I hope you find it pretty easy. Only the cutting part takes attention but I found that easiest to hack large parts off in straight cuts and then get progressively smaller with the cuts. Good luck and let’s surprise the ALCS with #LETBRETTBANG signs everywhere! LFG

EDIT: You don't need to use foam core. You can probably use a large cardboard box or poster board. That might even be easier to cut. I just recommend the foam core because for its lightweight not much matches its rigidity.

Have you heard of sugru? It's a moldable glue that I imagine has a similar feel to that toy. It's pretty strong stuff, too. It's not exactly what you were asking for, but I bet your son could probably recreate the toy in blue sugru.

Amazon will sell you a gallon for 15 bucks.

https://www.amazon.com/E-6000-Industrial-Adhesive-Medium-Viscosity/dp/B00WIY5IUI/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1486241848&sr=1-2&keywords=e6000

I use this to bond my works to painted canvas. i have demonstrated to people buying them and worried about how strong they are by slamming on the piece a lot and then holding it upside-down, i swear by this stuff.

I gotchu OP: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006IFBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_aRivzbWMVYYBV

I've been using my phone in the shower since April 11, 2014. I got my Galaxy S5 at launch and now have a Galaxy S7E, both are water resistant.

I use two clear 3M hooks next to each other as a mount so that I can watch podcasts and listen to music on a waterproof bluetooth shower speaker while showering.

I've never once had a single problem. Having said that, the phone is mounted under the shower head and so pressurized water is never hitting the phone directly. The bit of splashing from my head and shoulders does nothing.

It's an interesting German paint that I read about called UHU. Amazon carries it, but sadly the single tubes take forever to ship, and the 5 pack is WAY overkill. So I have enough to last me forever now. Here's the link: Uhu 38106 All Purpose Adhesive - 125ml Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0031RG2GA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_poz9BbPERGCKR

It was surprisingly easy, it dries very fast. I mixed it with Citadel Blood for the Blood God, then went over the finished effect again with a gloss varnish (Vallejo) after sealing it all with Dullcoat.

you know those crappy elmers glue sticks they had us use in kindergarten get some of those and apply a coat to the bed(usually in the general area you will be printing). Also grab yourself some isopropyl alcohol to clean the bed. So before a print you apply some gluestick then after the print give it a quick rub down with isopropyl alcohol. Rinse and repeat.

​

EDIT: https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Glue-Stick-E4062-sticks/dp/B01JZYM6GC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=glue+sticks&qid=1566011379&s=gateway&sr=8-3

90% sure it was this Loctite Super Glue Gel Control Bottle 4 Gram Case of 6 (1364076-6) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2S50HN/
Sides squeeze in to dispense.

This stuff. You can find it cheaper in stores.

as i handed him the glue. i bought with Alexa.
https://www.amazon.com/SUPER-GLUE-19061-Porcelain-Repair/dp/B00009V3VT

I usually use a few pieces of UHU Patafix. Press with them on the case, or even on the AirPod its self and the dirt came off.

Here’s the amazon link:
https://www.amazon.com/Patafix-Sticks-Again-Repositionable-Quick/dp/B0090L5RIK

I certainly don't mind.

Uhu is a brand. Here's a link from UK Amazon. https://www.amazon.co.uk/UHU-38106-All-Purpose-Adhesive/dp/B0031RG2GA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1321185144&sr=8-2

For photos, the number one thing is natural light. Pointing a spotlight will wash out the colour as you see here. Put the model by the window and see if that helps.

If that's not possible, you need to diffuse the light. There are many ways to do this but the most crude is pointing your spotlight at a piece of paper near the model rather than at the model itself.

Hope that helps, would love to see the results.

I'd try using the adhesive that you'd use to reassemble a cell phone. Something like this

Artsy for life

One of my favourite crafts is Warhammer. I've done a conversion from $ which is £15.50? I love painting the models, never really been a fan of the game though. I have a lot of painted models, which I believe to look pretty good, thing is the basing. I've never really tried to do anything to adventurous with the bases, but have always wanted to.

This basing kit along with some PVA Glue would get me off to a great start at having 100% complete looking troops.

I used to have loads of photos of my Warhammer, but cannot really find any at the moment. I found one which is on my website Sorry for the small image.

Although the models are small and fiddly to paint, I just find it so relaxing, and have such a sense of achievement at the end looking at them finished. I can take more photos when I get home if anyone is interested.

Museum putty I use that for everything, all my Action figures have them on there feet (if they dont have a stand on them)

I use this for my sons badges for scouts, always worked well https://www.amazon.co.uk/Scout-Shops-Ltd-Badge-Glue/dp/B007V0MNFM

Hey! I was totally in this situation 6 months ago. Figuring out technique is a sort of "figure it out as you go" situation and tons of videos on youtube can help you figure it out. What I can help you with is your purchases. Figuring out what you'll need is extremely overwhelming, so here's a dirty rundown of what I've gathered so far:

1. Starting off can be pricey, so I highly recommend starting off buying cheaper make-up until you figure out your vibe. You really don't need the expensive stuff to look good, and make-up in stores like Sephora and Ulta are EXTREMELY expensive relative to how much you will be using vs. their price. That being said, amazon is your girl. Mehron has extremely cheap foundations on Amazon and they last forever (at least they did for me) - attached is my main shade, but you can look through the color options they have to guess your base/contour/highlight. I've only gone through one entire stick of my base foundation (which I use the most) since i've bought my base make up. I HIGHLY recommend in investing in beauty blenders and not brushes when it comes to foundation because i've found that beauty blenders make looks come out a lot more polished. (Not to say that good looks can't come out of brushes, I've just found blenders to be a lot easier to work with.
   
2. Once you have painted your foundation in a way you're happy with, use light layers of setting powder to set it down. Remember that although the more powder you use will have it last longer, the more cakey you'll come out. Also keep in mind that the powder will soften colors, so don't expect the foundation to be as intense as it was before you put the powder on.
   
3. Colored eyeshadow can be really tough when you don't know what colors work for you. This is the palette I highly recommend getting based on it's color variety and price. Mind you, some of the colors came in cracked, but if you press them down without mixing them into the other pots, they are deff still usable. Remember that you'll need a lot of brushes if you want to experiment with different shades. Elf brushes found at any general store (Target for example) typically go for a dollar each, so stock up on those so you have room for experimentation. I'd recommend around 10 or so just to be able to play around.
   
4. EYELINER. I personally love a sharp thick liner, so I primarily get some cheap liquid liner and cover it with black eyeshadow to make it POP. (This can also be applied to any part of painting - If you want it to really POP (I cannot stress this enough) start with a liquid or cream material and cover it with it's powdered equivalent. Any cheap elf liquid liner will do. If you're not really focused on a sharp liner, go for pencil because it's generally easier to apply.
   
5. Eyebrows - Not sure what your eyebrows are like, but trust me when I say that they're one of the biggest inconveniences when it come to painting your face. If your brows are thick, I highly suggest investing in a multipack of glue sticks. Gluing techniques vary among queens, but I tend to apply a heavy layer of glue, smooth out as much as I possibly can as fast as I can before the glue gets tacky and dry with a hairdryer. After the glue is almost dry, I apply a light layer of setting powder (DO NOT GO OVERBOARD, because your brows WILL come out crunchy). After this initial layer, continue layers of glue and LIGHT powder until they're fully blocked. Be sure that they're completely dry before you continue on to the next layer or else the tackiness will cause them to break (and you'll have to start all over). Honestly I'd say shave them off if you have the ability to do so and don't mind what you look like browless as boy.
   
6. CLEAN UP. Cleaning up is one of the things I dread most about drag. You'll need some stuff to clean both your face and materials. When it comes to removing make up, wet wipes feel nice, but are (again) pricey. If you're on a budget, cotton rounds and micellar water should do the trick just fine. When it comes to your materials (blenders and brushes) I don't care what anyone says. Dish soap and hot water will ALWAYS remove makeup quickly. Don't use any specialized brush cleansers until you feel comfortable enough to invest in quality brushes.
   
   ​
   
   Again, you don't need EVERYTHING listed above, but for my personal complete look, I require everything I mentioned. Starting off, I blew about around 300 dollars, so save money when you can. When queens joke about how they spent a lot of money to look "this" cheap, they really aren't lying. ALSO, don't be discouraged if you don't have the coin. There are tons of other resources available out there and if possible, you can always slowly acquire items over time.
   
   ​
   
   Good luck! ✨

https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Liquid-School-Washable-Gallon/dp/B071JPD9M3

What I can tell that it is a porcelain mug, and it's PROBABLY salvageable. What you want to do is find porcelain glue, apply to the broken areas, and bake it in the oven for a while.

A How To on repairing porcelain -

http://home.howstuffworks.com/how-to-repair-kitchen-equipment2.htm


Porcelain glue!


http://www.amazon.com/SUPER-GLUE-19061-Porcelain-Repair/dp/B00009V3VT

Personally, I like using thick string to hold everything together. If you can get the base to hold first and work your way up, she should have her mug back in no time :]

Yeah but they’re extremely nice. We use them at work so easy to love them when they’re free! Also you could buy a plain white board and use this. Just takes a steady hand and some patience. https://www.amazon.com/Graphic-Whiteboard-Self-Adhesive-Artist-Scissor/dp/B07H6Q9SC3

And when using a glue stick like these on AmazonUK, it's hard to go wrong. To make things even easier to clean your glass, a bit of isopropyl alcohol on the glass while its warm makes clean up a snap.