Best power rotary tool cutting wheels according to redditors

I would think this tool would work, it works wonders on vinyl lettering and pinstripes and stickers and such. I don't see why it wouldn't work for this. Check out some videos on Youtube on how to use it

Dremel is a name brand for hand held rotary tools. I have and have had several so I will give you my .02

Vacuum powered - You connect it to a shop vac or other vacuum and the suction powers it, while this may sound good on the surface I can't see this having anykind of power from this I suggest avoiding it.

Cordless - Battery powered, I have had several. You get less torque than with a corded version, and they run down. I do have their new micro version and I like it so far, but cordless will always be a balance between power and battery life.

Corded - Best bet IMHO, get more features for less money than with the cordless and do not have to worry about waiting for one to charge.

Suggested Features -

• Do not stick with a single speed version, go with variable speed. In fact the more speed options the better IMHO. Different bits require different speeds, for example a cutting bit needs to run quicker than a wire brush.
  
  
• Multi Tool chuck - Some bits come in different diamters, this one will take them all. I love this and have replaced the old style chuck on all of my units.
  
  Bits - This will depend on what you want to use it for. I use my Dremels for everything from mixing epoxy to cutting and sanding everything (metal, wood, foam, fiberglass, etc). You can get more for your money if you buy a family of bits in a kit (example) but a few bits I have found most useful are:
  
  
• Sanding drum - then you buy the different sleves that slide over the tip and come in different grits. Again look for kits.
  
  
• Cut off disk - Go for the re-enforced ones like this
  
  
• carbide disk - Love this thing it cuts wood and softer material very well.
  
  
• carbide bits Come in many shapes and sizes, I find that they work well for shaping wood and softer materials.
  
  NOTE Like most power tools, a rotary tool takes a bit of practice, they can get away from you and eat up material (including your jeans and leg) if you are not careful. I have found that 90 percent of the time a light touch.. pull back.. and light touch.. pull back is the best method.
  
  edit: spelling and format
  

Get a machete. Cut it to a 3" circle with a hole for mounting to a dremel bit. Drill circles on the edge periodically. Done.

Well a nice set up on a bandsaw would probably work really slick, but requires a bandsaw.

My first idea I had before seeing how you did it was to use a Dremel with some EZ-Lock cutoff wheels. You could try free handing it or you could mount the Dremel horizontally on a platform on some drawer slides so it slides straight down the middle of the cap, which is sitting in its own jig.

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-426-Fiberglass-Reinforced-Cut-Off/dp/B00004UDH9

You might get lucky and have it just come off with a little prying, try that first. I've had some pop right off.

I highly recommend these Dremel EZ Locks over the older style cutting wheels that screw into the bit. They're much faster to change, because these wheels get eaten through and torn up pretty easily and quickly. Just get the metal cutting ones, and you should be good to go.

Edit: I also remembered the other reason i like the EZ lock's a lot more. The discs typically die in 3 ways 1) They just get worn all the way down (rare) 2) The outside breaks off 3) (On the old style) They break at the center mounting point. The EZ lock has a wider diameter at the mounting point for the EZ mount and its more reinforced, making it much rarer that they break the 3rd way.

Got this kit works great so far. The keyless chuck works fine too I got.

Which piece are you talking about to sand down the MVP?

Got this too

I have to say that the best thing to do is use something like a dremel diamond sanding wheel or drum to knock off the hard corners and then use sand paper to refine those edges and clean them up. The last thing you might want to do is use some diamond coated needle files to get into those tight places and use a stick or rod with some more sand paper wrapped around it to clean up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AWEOn43N0DM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUHXHQ4mfwA

These are the files that I picked up. These are similar to disks used in the first video but I want to pick up these drum files instead.

A dremel maybe? I'd make a little jig for the extension cable (see amazon ) but there's Dremel brand adapters & tools you might be interested in.

I was thinking about wrapping the bottom of the stem with tape, and trying to use that diamond cutting wheel to make a flat clean cut. Yay or nay?

Diamond cutting discs are made to be used with glass as well. How safe his whole hose setup was, not so sure.

I always recommend people upgrade to these cuttof wheels instead:

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-EZ406-02-Cut-Off-Mandrel-Cutting/dp/B000FBLRVA

They are way easier to use.

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-EZ406-02-Cut-Off-Mandrel-Cutting/dp/B000FBLRVA/ie=UTF8&qid=1495130513&sr=8-2&keywords=dremel+quick+connect

and on the end of that flexi shaft

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-545D-545-Diamond-Wheel/dp/B00004UDI9/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1368536646&sr=1-2&keywords=diamond+dremel

i used a continuous rim diamond blade in an angle grinder to cut out rectangular holes for the receptacles in my misco wire backsplash in my kitchen. that trickle of cold water is key.

If you want an aftermarket double DIN head unit you need a kit such as the Metra 95-7313 and you need to cut out a dash support bar behind the radio to make clearance. [Metra 95-7313 installation guide] (http://www.metraonline.com/files/products/INST95-7313.pdf)

This is fairly easy with a Dremel(not a cordless one) and a cutting bit. Dremel 561 Multipurpose Cutting Bit

Practice on some scrap plastic panels to get a feel of it first so you don't cut the hell out of your dash.

Use a cutoff wheel like /u/jakkarth says if you need to cut a circuit board (and wear a respirator). For plastics, these spiral bits are unbeatable. They cut through most common plastics like a hot knife through butter. They're safer than the cutoff wheels (which sometimes fracture), they cut faster, and they don't melt the plastic.

Yeah i really didn't like the original window because mine rattled a lot when the fans were cranking. Anyways the materials are listed below:

• Dremel Reinforced Disk
  
  
• U channel tubing (example)
  
  
• Plexiglass
  
  
• 3M permanent mounting tape
  
  So I took the plexiglass to lowes and had them cut it to the size i wanted for free. I used a dremel and the disk to cut out the window (run at 70-80% speed for best cut results). After the window is cut out of the panel, I took a grinder to the edges to smooth them down. The u-channel tubing should slide over it nicely (you can look into different types of u-channel for different looks). Then you just lay strips of the 3M tape on the inside of the side panel and press the plexiglass against it to secure. Doesn't take too much effort other than the cutting.

You need to either use a lot less pressure while cutting with the disc, or get some better discs. I use my dremel a ton and definitely get longer life out of a disc than that.

I recently picked up some of these and I'm liking them so far. They seem to last longer than others I've tried, and the "EZ Lock" is totally awesome.

Thanks, that's what I was going for. I'm pretty anal about aesthetics and while a lot of people made the build easier on themselves by not caring about the straightness of holes/proper spacing etc., I knew I'd hate it if it didn't look as good as I could make it.

I actually had to throw out my first project box because I had tried cutting out all the holes with sharp utility knife, and failing that, had tried using a simple cutoff wheel with my dremel. This was a bad idea. Dremel cutoff wheels are insanely hard to use on this sort of plastic (they tend to melt rather than cut the plastic), and they're incredibly imprecise. So, I ended up getting this attachment and I built a couple multi-layer jigs so I'd have an almost exact hole with minimal filing needed with just one pass of the dremel.

I don't count the attachment as part of my project cost because it's really quite nice to have and would make cutting holes in drywall etc super easy. I'm bound to use it a lot in the coming years.

EDIT: I should note that at first I did have a bit of trouble with the 1/8" jack. I don't know if the solder didn't take properly or what, but the sensor reported an error when I first plugged it all in. Since then it's been working fine and I opened it all up and double checked everything was fine, and it was. It wouldn't be proper DIY if something inexplicable didn't happen and then resolve itself.

This is the one I currently have, that I'm looking to replace. I thought of purchasing the same thing, but I want to try these ones because I'm broke and it's a better price-point. 😂

That poor soldering iron! Those must've been some mightily impressive plastic fumes you produced.

Rotary tools have gotten pretty cheap, the Black and Decker RTX-6 can be had at a fairly reasonable price. Unfortunately plastic is a bit tricky, especially the softer plastics that melt easy. You usually need a special bit and a lot of times can still end up melting the plastic away instead of cutting/removing it.

Also.. You.. you have that hard disk held down with duct tape don't you? I hope you didn't cover up the breather hole.

Thanks everyone for the advice everyone, I probably would have bought them had I found them yesterday, but I decided to go the DIY route. Since picking must be a very budget conscious hobby for me, I went ahead and took the plunge and bought the important tools. I figured making my own pins would be difficult and require a lot of crazy equipment, but I looked into it and realized it was a lot easier than expected. So just for anyone who's curious, here's what I got:

• $50 Kwikset rekey/pin set from eBay. 200 of each type of pins, 8 types of pins. Clips, followers, springs, and anything else needed to reassemble locks. That leaves enough pins to make absolutely every security pin that I know of, as well as any others that I find from watching people pick challenge locks. There are a good variety of these sets, so you can save some money here by getting only 50 or 100 of each pin type if you prefer. I just decided to start off big so I hopefully never have to buy another.
  
• $35 Rotary Tool. Used for a huge variety of DIY projects, including and excluding lockpicking. There are some cheaper options, but in my opinion you're better off buying at least a decent one to start so you don't have to upgrade later.
  
• $7 Needle File Set. Used in conjunction with your rotary tool as cutting/smoothing tools
  
• $25 Base Vice. Also is very useful for holding locks while picking.
  
   
  
  So in total $112 for all the components needed to make as many locks as I can imagine, many of which can be used for other projects.
  
   
  
  To add supplies for a few other DIY projects I also added:
  
  
• $6 Rotary Tool Bit Set. Used for various DIY projects.
  
• $9 Cutting Wheels for your Rotary tool.
  
• $6 Wood Plank. I'll use this along with the dremel bit set above to make a nice pinning tray.
  
• $2 12" x 0.5" x 0.023" Stainless Steel Feeler Gauge. Used to make picks, tension rods, etc. making it $2 per 2-3 tools. If the thickness you want is expensive/in short supply on amazon you can buy directly from the manufacturer here but in my experience the shipping is slower and the price is usually a ~$0.10 higher per 12" rod. If you really get into making DIY tools you can buy stainless steel feeler coils from easterngage which are 25' x 0.5" x 0.15"/0.18"/0.23"/0.25"/0.26" or any thickness you want really. For 25', depending on the thickness it'll cost you anywhere from $50.64 to $64.95. You might need the 1" wide coils for making double sided tension tools.
  
   
  
  So another $21 brings it to $133 plus $2 per 2-3 tools that you need. Add in this $6 case and a few $4-$6 practice locks around aliexpress (1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th 5th, 6th, 7th), and you've got a great starter kit that sets you up to DIY anything you might need in the future. I also took advantage of Peterson's mega christmas sale (plus the 10% discount code they gave us) and got a ~$25 order of $1-$3 picks to start me off

Use the diamond saw blades, the thinnest is about .1mm thick.
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-545D-545-Diamond-Wheel/dp/B00004UDI9

There will be some melting and edge cleanup, use a hobby knife and then some fine-grit sandpaper. This is pretty much as clean as you can get.

Tile cutting bit: https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-562-Tile-Cutting-Bit/dp/B00004UDIC

Diamond cutting wheel:https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-545D-545-Diamond-Wheel/dp/B00004UDI9/ref=pd_sim_469_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00004UDI9&pd_rd_r=269YAJP4K67TJ18GNAYD&pd_rd_w=t28id&pd_rd_wg=i2XAg&psc=1&refRID=269YAJP4K67TJ18GNAYD

Even carbide burr bits will work (slowly).

Wetting the area will keep down the dust and extend the life of your tools, but isn't strictly necessary.

I used a dremel, and to every one saying OH IT'LL MELT IT...Nah, it actually worked faster, better, and easier than a hacksaw. Dremel makes a "plastic" cutting blade that works wonders. If you just try to cut straight through, then yes, it will heat it up too fast. What I did was cut a section, pull away for 2-3 seconds, turn the tube a little and cut another section. 3-4 cuts and boom it's off. Takes less than 30 seconds. You will have to use a chamfer tool like this: https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-PETG-Acrylic-Tubing-Chamfer/dp/B016B29RK4 but again, that only takes another 20 seconds. Then using some 400 grit sandpaper to finish it off.

I used a dremel 3000 series, set it to power 8, and used this cutting wheel : https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-EZ476-2-Inch-Cut-Off-Plastic/dp/B000FBLRW4

I have grinding wheel attachments for the dremal... http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-EZ541GR-Lock-Grinding-Wheel/dp/B003NSBG8G#

this is what I've used in the past - probably what you got. That said, I did have to dremel a notch to get them to fit just right. I recommend aquick change disc for that.

A dremel. I heated up an X-acto knife on my stove and cut them out, but I don't recommend it as it can be dangerous.

I'd just use a standard cut off wheel.

Provided, of course, that your tool has the torque and speed capability to do so.

Get an EZ-Lock for cut-off wheels: EZ-Lock Metal Cut-off Kit at Amazon

you can see that there is some melted plastic on the part i intend to use as a jar to hold stuff in. However i think most of that came from having to make a second line of cuts to make the thing even as i did not have a even level cut with the first cut.also i may have been using it at to slow of a speed as i own a Wen brand Variable speed Rotary tool and may have had it set too slowly. so i am just going to contact Dremel and see what speed i should use for cutting plastic with this head.

Now for my review of this tool: this tool worked beautifully for cutting plastics even i used a containor made from Polypropylene which has a melting point of between 130-172 C depending on the type of PP used. this melting point is a lot lower then the 240 C melting point of the Polystyrene used in gundam kits.

However i wont be starting scratch building yet as i need to invest in a face sheild as the thing kicked up a lot of small pieces of plastic as i was cutting. luckly i wear glasses so i did not really need to worry about getting a piece in my eye. so if you buy this cutting head for your Rotary tool i strongly recommend getting a face shield as a to be safe. at the moment (3/29/16) this head is 16.29 plus tax on amazon right now. its a prime eligible Item so you can get it with primes 2 day free shipping.

I hope this helps with your scratch building endeavors my fellow gunpla builders. here is a link for the tools amazon page: http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-543-Cutting-Shaping-Wheel/dp/B000HI5WUS?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Cutting wheel https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-EZ688-01-Cutting-Metal-Plastic/dp/B002Q8T4OM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1542600284&sr=8-6&keywords=dremel+cutting+wheel

​

Ever see that carving some people do with carbide hand grinding wheels?

Edit:. This is the carbide part.

King Arthur Tools 2" Tungsten Carbide Coarse Disc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X3NDV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_K2h4Cb53HGGWA

Engraving bits


Flex Shaft attachment


EZ Lock cutinng wheel kit

Vinyl sticker remover, basically a rubber wheel that attaches to a drill

ABN Rubber Eraser Wheel with Drill Adapter 1-Pack – Pinstripe, Double Sided Adhesive, Vinyl Decal, Graphics Removal Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZ4ABKS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MgLPBb9C1P0DW

Haha, when it comes to building my own computers, I have raging OCD; so when it came to modding it and putting a dremel to the nice brushed aluminum case, it was extremely nerve racking. I used a pretty cheap single speed Dremel from Walmart with these metal cutting wheels.

The acrylic sheet that I used was precut and sold off the shelf at Home Depot, it's 8"x10" clear acrylic (.9mm thick)

sure it will

Some cuts I couldn't get with a Dremel. I used the quick detach metal disks http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-EZ406-Cut-Off-Mandrel-Cutting/dp/B000FBLRVA

I don't know what kind of deal Amazon has for shipping to Georgia but if reasonable, this Baleigh can be had for $217 https://www.amazon.com/Baileigh-MPS-3-Multi-Purpose-Throatless-Capacity/dp/B00F8M3ZGQ

How about something like this?
Dremel EZ Lock 456

It's like a machine shop and a NASA laser that fits in your pocket and budget. Also get these or this.

I wouldn't have said anything if I hadn't cut plastic with a dremel before.

Here you go cheif. Let me know how it works.

The instructions also say to "Go slower."