(Part 2) Best power rotary tool parts & accessories according to redditors
We found 163 Reddit comments discussing the best power rotary tool parts & accessories. We ranked the 79 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
Won't work. You need this guy.
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https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-426-Fiberglass-Reinforced-Cut-Off/dp/B00004UDH9
i concur in your estimation.
OP needs something like this
Get something like this
It's used with your drill and will chew through the old stickers without damaging the paint. I used something like this to remove the pinstripes from an old Jeep.
A dremel maybe? I'd make a little jig for the extension cable (see amazon ) but there's Dremel brand adapters & tools you might be interested in.
I don't really know. I've never had very good luck with the stones. I think the most useful dremel accessories for grinding away material is either use the sanding drums like these or use rasps/burrs coated in diamond or tungsten carbide like these.
For the brushes, the silver ones are steel or stainless steel, and the brown ones are usually brass. They'll have different effects on different materials based on the hardness. I've used the stainless brushes on steel before to clean it and kind of give it a texture.
For buffing/polishing of things like painted surfaces you'll want something like this or this and some sort of buffing compound. Most dremel accessory kits usually come with 1 or 2 buffing attachments.
I have to say that the best thing to do is use something like a dremel diamond sanding wheel or drum to knock off the hard corners and then use sand paper to refine those edges and clean them up. The last thing you might want to do is use some diamond coated needle files to get into those tight places and use a stick or rod with some more sand paper wrapped around it to clean up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AWEOn43N0DM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUHXHQ4mfwA
These are the files that I picked up. These are similar to disks used in the first video but I want to pick up these drum files instead.
Use eraser wheels. There are some cheap ones that work like this or this or even autozone I believe has these bit they are pricy. Or we use the MBX tool with the mbx wheel. That will eat it up quick, but those are pricy too. The first link get a good amount of those. The vinyl eats them up real fast.
Diamond cutting discs are made to be used with glass as well. How safe his whole hose setup was, not so sure.
I bought little scotchbrite pads like these:
https://smile.amazon.com/ZFE-Abrasive-Buffing-Polishing-Dremel/dp/B010NLHCOW
I only ended up using a couple of them. Since the putter as a bunch of large surfaces, wet/dry sandpaper did most of the work. Started at 400 and went up from there. Think I finally got sick of sanding at 2000.
Thanks, that's what I was going for. I'm pretty anal about aesthetics and while a lot of people made the build easier on themselves by not caring about the straightness of holes/proper spacing etc., I knew I'd hate it if it didn't look as good as I could make it.
I actually had to throw out my first project box because I had tried cutting out all the holes with sharp utility knife, and failing that, had tried using a simple cutoff wheel with my dremel. This was a bad idea. Dremel cutoff wheels are insanely hard to use on this sort of plastic (they tend to melt rather than cut the plastic), and they're incredibly imprecise. So, I ended up getting this attachment and I built a couple multi-layer jigs so I'd have an almost exact hole with minimal filing needed with just one pass of the dremel.
I don't count the attachment as part of my project cost because it's really quite nice to have and would make cutting holes in drywall etc super easy. I'm bound to use it a lot in the coming years.
EDIT: I should note that at first I did have a bit of trouble with the 1/8" jack. I don't know if the solder didn't take properly or what, but the sensor reported an error when I first plugged it all in. Since then it's been working fine and I opened it all up and double checked everything was fine, and it was. It wouldn't be proper DIY if something inexplicable didn't happen and then resolve itself.
Yeah i really didn't like the original window because mine rattled a lot when the fans were cranking. Anyways the materials are listed below:
So I took the plexiglass to lowes and had them cut it to the size i wanted for free. I used a dremel and the disk to cut out the window (run at 70-80% speed for best cut results). After the window is cut out of the panel, I took a grinder to the edges to smooth them down. The u-channel tubing should slide over it nicely (you can look into different types of u-channel for different looks). Then you just lay strips of the 3M tape on the inside of the side panel and press the plexiglass against it to secure. Doesn't take too much effort other than the cutting.
Use a cutoff wheel like /u/jakkarth says if you need to cut a circuit board (and wear a respirator). For plastics, these spiral bits are unbeatable. They cut through most common plastics like a hot knife through butter. They're safer than the cutoff wheels (which sometimes fracture), they cut faster, and they don't melt the plastic.
If you want an aftermarket double DIN head unit you need a kit such as the Metra 95-7313 and you need to cut out a dash support bar behind the radio to make clearance. [Metra 95-7313 installation guide] (http://www.metraonline.com/files/products/INST95-7313.pdf)
This is fairly easy with a Dremel(not a cordless one) and a cutting bit. Dremel 561 Multipurpose Cutting Bit
Practice on some scrap plastic panels to get a feel of it first so you don't cut the hell out of your dash.
No, the threads are the normal orientation.
It will be worthwhile for you to get two tools - a bolt extractor (to work on the nuts) and a stud extractor. You may get them in the same kit - this is the one I have.
The bolt extractors come in different sizes. They fit over the nut a bit like a normal socket, but they are slightly conical inside and there are six helical ridges. Providing you selected the right size, these bite in to the nut or bolt head and get purchase even if it is badly corroded or rounded off. The nut may come off the stud, or the stud may come out of the head. Fortunately studs are fairly thick these days, so they rarely snap. Heat and penetrating oil will also help, but you can also use a 50:50 mix of acetone and ATF which seems to work well. A few drops of diesel is also good.
The stud extractor fits over the stud, and three rollers inside cam on to the stud, giving grip. These work well.
Do take the opportunity to replace the studs (if you can get them out) and the nuts. You should find that the stud extractors can be used in reverse to wind them in.
I recently went through an exercise on looking at the kits.
The 710-02 and 710-05 seem to be the same thing.
The 710-08 is missing the Abrasive buffs (511E/512E) and a cut off wheel (540) and has some extra sanding disks. Its also got different shape grinding stones.
So very minor differences. I would see which is better price (looks to be the 08) and get that.
BTW you can see a comparison of the different size kits on this page. I found the 709-02 kit was less sanding focused and picked that (not interested in EZ-lock parts)
Make sure to get one with variable speeds. I use mine a lot, so the finer control comes in handy. If you just need a tool that will get the job done, Black & Decker make the 3 speed RTX-B for about $30 and it works great.
More important in this case though is to have a proper plastic cutting/shaping tool. The trick with plastic is removing the material without melting all of it. They make special cutting bits for wood and plastics, which honestly I wish they'd made a lot sooner. It'll still melt some of the softer plastics if you go too fast but is miles ahead of the high-speed steel cutters..
I used a Drill Press Vice to hold the frame steady, and a Dremel with a High Speed Cutter bit to work away at the frame. I just made lateral cuts until the speaker fit, then used a polishing bit to clean it up. For the plastic fuel tank, try it without holes first to see how it sounds for you. On one model, I poked holes through it with a hot soldering iron tip to try and get more sound, but I'm not sure it helped.
Are these correct? https://www.amazon.com/4X4X10mm-Carbon-Brushes-Automotive-Window/dp/B06ZZXX6N4
It was the 1st result from this search: https://www.google.com/search?q=automotive+window+motor+brushes
I got these cotton buffing wheels for my drill press from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H6Y0KUC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3IFszbN6Z2XZN
They work great, but the smallest one is just way too small, so I'm going to have to get another big one. I also used some tripoli and white diamond before the wax
It looks just like a grinder, yeah. But what I'm thinking was to take the replacement wheels like this and maybe in the chuck of a drill driver you'd be able to make your own flap sander of sorts.
Diamond rotary bits off of amazon. A huge time save over filing manually by hand. Just make sure you get the right size for your chain.
HTS 111C3-4 4 Pack 7/32" Diamond Chainsaw Sharpening Rotary Bit Set with 1/8" Shank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FT8UKMA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YNd1CbZ84SSR0
Not sure which dremel you had, but Walmart's cordless MiniMite has been perfect for my crew. Mad props to the diamond wheels I ordered a while ago, too. They sand much smoother and don't wear down like the paper bands.