(Part 3) Best powersports drive train parts according to redditors

Easy fix...

https://www.amazon.com/Martin-Wheel-BK-1-Bearing-Repair/dp/B00C1ZQT6G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1504886304&sr=8-4&keywords=trailer+bearing

and one of these...

https://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpower-74177-Bearing-Protector/dp/B000CPCC4U/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000CPCC4U&pd_rd_r=8SB3ETSQRF2DC4K45F7P&pd_rd_w=uxYHz&pd_rd_wg=rkijq&psc=1&refRID=8SB3ETSQRF2DC4K45F7P

I know you can get one of these for dirt bikes; not sure if there is something similar for cruisers or street bikes

Outlaw EZ Pull Clutch Lever Kit

Gorgeous looking bike, have fun!

I went with Competition Werkes exhaust with the baffle and their tidy tail kit. Fairly cheap, I think $650 shipped from them. I did see the tidy tail separately on Amazon and Revzilla for about $20 cheaper the other day

https://www.instagram.com/p/BPQSXb2j4V-/

I've read all over that tuning for the exhaust on the 13+ years is a pain, but isn't neccessarily required. I havnt noticed any difference in power, but it does pop on decel a ton. Some people complain about hesitation off the line, but I havnt had any issues

The M4 GSXR 750 exhaust will bolt right up and looks and sound pretty damn good for $260

https://www.instagram.com/p/BOvLXpTjo-S/

11-16 SUZUKI GSXR600 & 750: M4 GP Series Slip-On Exhaust - Black (BLACK) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007C68PNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5fIJybTM02DJ6

https://www.instagram.com/p/BPQOJNYDhpw/

I reused the old turn signals so I wouldn't have to cut the wires. They included smaller ones with splice connectors

I didn't want to go too crazy and drill a bigger hole so I used their plate light and had to splice 2 wires

The fit and finish of the kit is great for the price. A little gap here or there, but it feels solid and everything works

I also got a Supersprox stealth 45T for $100 on Amazon

+2 over stock and makes a bit of difference. Will fit on a broken-in stock chain too.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BPP_VqHjYk6/

Supersprox Stealth Gold 530 45 Tooth Rear Sprocket for Triumph 955 1050 Speed Triple Daytona Sprint https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HF7XXB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_c7HJyb5C9XEJW

My next mod will be a steel braided line for the rear. I noticed that when I took off the chain guard, my chain had touched the brake line and scuffed it a bit. I had to adjust the banjo bolt to avoid it touching again. I'll be replacing that ASAP

No worries man, bored at work and just trying to help best I can.

For the chain I would first recommend some elbow grease and wd-40 to see how much of the rust comes off first, if it's still bad then get a new chain. You want 520 o-ring

Here's an example of a chain:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007A8OSKS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_7WSnzbNPFVXVS

Haynes manual:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JGBM3N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_CYSnzbGCH3HYT


I wouldn't pay a shop more than $50 for a chain swap as it takes maybe 30min to do. Easy enough to do yourself if you want an excuse to drink a beer in the garage.

> Is there any way to tell by looking?

lol yeah, one has a solid nose and the other has a hollow nose. The ends of the master link tell you.

Solid nose have a solid nose

Hollow nose have a hole on the end

Hello!

I've got a 2012 FZ8, and I just replaced the chain and both sprockets. Here's what I used:

• DID 525VXGB X-Ring Chain
  
• Sunstar 42116 Countershaft Sprocket
  
• Sunstar 2-459546 Rear Sprocket
  
  The problem: Pretty much any time I'm moving, I get a pretty loud whirring/buzzing/whining sound coming from the area of the front sprocket. I'm 98% it's the chain itself, at the moment it rotates around the front sprocket. Here's the facts:
  
  
• Increases in pitch as speed increases (though 35-45mph seems to increase sharply)
  
• Increases amplitude as load increases (e.g. it's much louder at 3/4 throttle than at 1/8th throttle)
  
• I might have those mixed up (my memory sucks)
  
• Only appears under positive load (cruise/acceleration)
  
• Almost completely disappears under negative load (deceleration)
  
• Still occurs with the clutch in and coasting, but not as loud
  
• Stock sprocket has a rubber insert, new sprocket does not (I imagine this could have something to do with it)
  
  I've adjusted the chain to spec and aligned the sprockets the best I could. When I installed the chain, I cleaned off the grease that came with it with kerosene, let it dry, and went for a test ride. I've since (after the test ride to warm up the chain) applied chain lube and haven't ridden it since. This is the first time I've changed a chain on a bike before. Is this sound normal? Does it go away? It's not terribly annoying, since my leg blocks 90% of the noise (I only hear it when I move my head to the side, or open up my legs), but I just want to make sure I didn't do anything wrong. I torqued all nuts to spec on both sprockets and the axle. I've put the front sprocket cover back on (I had it off during the test ride), so I imagine that it will muffle the sound a bit. I also normally ride with earplugs so that will help too.
  
  Here's a video that shows the sound. I only get up to aboue 25-30mph, but you can still hear it. Notice that once I cut the throttle, the sound disappears. And keep in mind that it's a lot louder than the video makes it seem.
  
  Thanks!

Interesting. This thing? https://www.amazon.com/Polini-241-626-P241626-Variator-Metropolitan/dp/B00J8LZNLI

If looking for a new belt don’t cheap out. I learned the hard way. I have one of these Power Links on my Tao Tao and it really helped.

Gates Powerlink PL20507 replaces 669 18 30 Standard CVT Drive Belt 49cc/50cc GY6 QMB139 4 stroke Engines https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IDHGQ8C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_o1KF3WWJSoYbl

Also check your valve clearances while you’re looking the scoot over

Once you get the belt size you can shop around a few motorcycle websites. Look for Kevlar. And make a list. It's a bit of trial and err.

Your roller weights are what you might want to try first. I suggest looking at Dr Pulley brand.

https://www.amazon.com/Dr-Pulley-Sliding-Roller-Weights/dp/B00ETA28Y8/ref=asc_df_B00ETA28Y8/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312684231807&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8004952199880134610&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9009654&hvtargid=pla-570207621970&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=60983009663&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312684231807&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8004952199880134610&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9009654&hvtargid=pla-570207621970

I gave them this kit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E0IKF2G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have to double check my slack but since it is aftermarket and has no rubber damping, is the howling ok?

https://www.amazon.com/RK-Racing-Chain-M530HD-120-Connecting/dp/B00BV6W6DQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1501682128&sr=8-4&keywords=RK+530+chain

Get something like that. Plenty strong for a Vulcan.

Kerosene or diesel in a spray bottle (not gasoline!) and a hard brush. You'll figure it out. Never powerwash the chain.

Or just get yourself one of these. It'll make cleaning a breeze.

I got about 7k out of my OEM. I tried the JIT, and will never do another (broke, and not at the master link). I went with a heavier chain this last time and it's been awesome - more than 12k on it now, very little adjustments needed, and no kinking so far.

DID Chain for NC: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006O85ULQ

Spare Master Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0068FTJJ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

FWIW, I have the OEM sprockets still on at 30K and they both still look good. When it comes time to get new sprockets, I will be going with OEM again.

Looking around, I found this site

And it looks like stock chain for the 1981 year is 630

Which seemingly runs between ~50-65 dollars.

I would try to talk him down to $1000 if you could. You also have the advantage of a winter sale with you.

how do i know what will fit it? 36t offset x 104 bcd, not sure what the 104bcd means? http://www.amazon.com/RaceFace-Light-Bash-Guard-104mm/dp/B007VUOO7C/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1454259034&sr=1-1&keywords=blue+Bash+Guard

Just through Amazon. Get something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002I7K5KS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fceBDb8Y9KDY0

Then something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073QHQHPB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4eeBDb2YYTRZJ

Then some spacers, how thick depending on where your chainline falls.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007HOI6F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NheBDb9NZ1JFR

You may also need longer bolts, depending. You can definitely find all manner of videos on YouTube, many of which were made by people that know what they’re doing a whole lot better than I do.

Before you go the route of replacing, buy a seal mate or product like it. Chances Are your seal is fine and a lil dirt is there, these tools get dirt out and helps to make the seal work again. Only $10-20 bucks depending on which you get

Edit: Risk Racing 00-213 Small 35mm - 45mm Seal Doctor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006ZTTY6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YPkIAbA4QFGBG

This is the one I use, there are cheaper alternatives, but I find this to be the best made and easiest to use. Attaches to fork, slides down into seal, rotate and lift as it completes a full circle, and done. Give it a few pumps to make sure no more fork oil coming out.

Here ya go https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006O85XFE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_U-nsDb56NSD0R

Installed:

-Trail Tech 752-119 Vapor computer

-FMF PowerCore 4 exhaust

-JD rejet 39mm FCR carb

-Aluminum skid plate

Purchased (will install):

-Kenda K270 (3.25-21 front, 5.10-18 rear)

-JTR808.41 41T Steel Rear Sprocket

-DID 520VX2GB-110 Gold X-Ring Chain with Connecting Link

-MCCT, red billet

-Silicone coolant hoses

-FMF PowerBomb header

-Kick Start V162

-2011 DR-Z400S subframe

-2-port USB charger / voltmeter

-Weego JSPT524 Powersports Tether

Need to do:

-Free power mod

-Loctite clutch bolts and stator bolts

Cargo, haven't bought anything here yet:

-PMR rear rack and sissy bar.

Haven't decided between side racks:

-Option 1 - metal looks sturdy but has just 2 mounting points

-Option 2 - great that it attaches around back for extra stability, not sure how many actual mounting points it has

-Option 3 PMR again, I like that they seem to hug the bike well but not sure if metal panniers can be used, or just bags. And in fact these only seem to have 2 mounting points as well... what's the weight capacity on any of these setups if they all only have 2 mounting points?

Still researching:

-SM footpegs or similar wide option

-LED headlight bulb

-Steel brake lines

-Windscreen

-What the hell taillight I have and where to find a flat metal sheet to get my license plate to mount on it, since the existing metal plate is broken

-Ceramic coating for FMF PowerBomb header

-Ceramic wheel bearings link link link. Expensive, but would be neat if price were no object. Will be doing mostly street riding.

-Lithium battery or capacitor - this looks appealing, and ThumperTalk carries a capacitor that would cut down on weight but would mean no electric start. I have a kick start kit though so maybe I want to live without a battery, not sure.

-Iridium CR9EIX plug

-Tool kit in one of those black plastic canisters at the rear of the bike on the left, opposite the exhaust tip

-Seat Concepts seat

-Find passenger pegs & mounts to add to the S subframe

Frivolous but tempting:

link

link

link

link

link

link