(Part 2) Best putty knives according to redditors

Cheaper and better.

Sorry I must have been unclear. You never heat your oils with anything besides water. So always double boil or bath.

When you take it off to scrape up with a razor blade, then spread out into a thin layer, you want to do this away from the heat so you don't burn yourself, spill hot water, etc. It's a safety thing.

Keep a towel around and place the dish on that when you're scraping. This will help you clear any water from the bottom, so that you can see the tiny little bubbles in your oil. When you scrape it thin, you're maximizing the heated surface area, thus drawing out the maximum amount of gasses, which will result in the purest possible products. If you let your solution boil down until its like syrup, then begin scaping and spreading for 45 minutes to an hour, you will get pretty good snap taffy or shatter depending. Remember this process doesn't destroy anything if done under the right heating conditions :)

I use these razors
http://www.amazon.com/Single-Razor-Blades-MTN950-Category/dp/B000HI7AOO (You can find cheaper)

This thermometer
http://www.amazon.ca/HDE-Temperature-Infrared-Thermometer-Laser/dp/B002YE3FS4

This dish
http://www.amazon.com/Glass-Pie-Dish-Set-2/dp/B001D6YXI0/ref=sr_1_4?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1407381112&sr=1-4&keywords=pyrex+pie+dish

and i use 3 25 micron filters. This is equivallent to 5-10 coffee filters, easily. Filtration helps with clarity. Scraping/spearding helps with bubbles/consistency (not having swirls of waxes, etc. That sucks IMO, i'd rather it look nice :))

Edit: To answer your other question, a double boiler aka Bain-marie is a pot inside of a boiling pot, basically. It's a bath.

So i usually do both, because i'm impatient. I spray on a stable counter surface right beside my 80-100* wok with water in it. I put my pie dish in, and that quickly gets rid of most of my butane.

Some people steam their dish, that takes too long when, because the butane is absorbing energy faster than the water can release it. It's quicker to a little water to help transfer that energy away from the dish. Ensure no open flames are around at this point :)

Swapping CPUs out of motherboards is something I do for my job on a weekly basis. To remove thermal paste, I scrape most of it off using a 1" plastic putty knife. Then I take a lint free wipe, wet it with rubbing alcohol, and wipe down the heat sink and processor.

They make small tools to make it easier, but you can do it with any thin, flat tool.

Here's an easy video that shows you how. I'd recommend NOT using a knife, as you don't want to cut the band - a small flat-head screw-driver, or even a thin metal putty knife would do the job nicely.

Does that help?

People are gross, but there is a right tool for the job:
https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-11504-Stainless-Scraper/dp/B000PRYDSS/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_tr_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BWT2TGFP5X8NM5WQEGRN

Either ask your manager to keep one behind the bar, or just ask the maintenance guy for one.

1. You don't necessarily need to know how to draw well. It depends on what kind of prints you want to make. Most people sketch out a preliminary drawing and transfer it onto their printing matrix in some way. You can use graphite transfer paper to trace an image onto a block for relief printing.
   
   
2. I think the easiest way to start would be with relief printing. You can get a basic starter kit like this one. It's got everything you need to get started, plus some extras.
   
   
3. Beginner techniques for relief printing:
   
   

1. Sketch your image. Draw/transfer it onto your block.
   
   
2. Carve your block with the gauge. Remember, whatever you carve away will not get ink on it. The surface you leave alone will be what transfers the ink. Also remember your image will be reversed on the paper. If you're carving text, it needs to be backwards on the block so it prints correctly on the paper.
   
   
3. Get your ink ready for rolling. Squeeze some ink out of your tube. Use something like a putty knife to spread the ink into a horizontal stripe. Use your brayer to roll a section of that stripe down so you also have a vertical stripe. Roll the ink up and down this stripe several times until you have a nice, even layer. This is hard to explain but you should have a "T" of ink, essentially. Two perpendicular stripes of ink.
   
   
4. Inking time! Roll your brayer over your block and watch that image appear! Roll from top to bottom and use even pressure across the entire block. You may need to pick up more ink by rolling your brayer over your vertical stripe from step 3 again.
   
   
5. Make your print. Press your paper down on top of your block. Apply pressure without moving the paper. You can use your hands, a wooden spoon, a bone folder, a baren, or a printing press. It comes down to personal preference and how much you want to invest. I have this little press, but I've found that I prefer hand pressure for small prints. I'll use my press if I've been working for hours and my fingers are about to fall off.
   
   
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5. You will probably make several test prints before you make one really good one. And then the challenge is making several prints that all look similar enough to be in the same edition.
   
   That's about as basic as printmaking gets. And yes, there are techniques that are way more difficult. Etching is a whole different beast from relief printing. Aquatint etchings drove me insane at school, but the results when done right are breathtakingly beautiful. And I don't even know entirely how lithographs are made.
   
   I know this is a lot to absorb from a reddit comment, so if there are any classes offered near you, I highly recommend taking some!

I have a sundolphin sit-in, and a striker 4. I stuck the transducer inside, in the stern, using a large blob of plumber's putty. https://www.amazon.com/Oatey-31166-Plumbers-Putty/dp/B0012QJ1GK/ref=sr_1_9?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1548983820&sr=1-9&keywords=plumbers+putty It works fine. Water temp. is not accurate, but close. The putty gets sandy after a while and comes off, so I replace it. It's cheap at the hardware store.

I use one of the black plastic label removers like this. Sharp enough edge to cut 90% of the tape i encounter, but can just be thrown in my pocket with my pens and such. Also useful for pulling the plastic on fast tracks forward for labels.

If it is still holding tight to the studs and just has cracks from movement, you can buy wide drywall tape and joint compound from any big box store and apply that. Looks up some youtube videos to get the technique down. Not hard once you get the hang of it.

I think this taping knife gives great results: https://www.amazon.com/Warner-10832-Perfect-Joint-6-Inch/dp/B00I8C67B8

Anything metal has a very high chance of ripping /tearing the FEP film let alone scratching it, so it's best to use plastic scrapers.

I use
AllwayTools DS15 1.5 Inch 1-1/2" https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001B1CHH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nu5PCb6D4A91X

and haven't had any problems.

If you insist on a fix, this may work. Water's leaving the flat window sill, and finding its way out of that corner, otherwise known as #1. That window sill must be beveled, imho, in order for water to leave the sills edge, otherwise known as #2, and down the shower wall.

You will need the following. A 6 inch putty knife. https://www.amazon.com/Warner-90137-ProGrip-Broad-6-Inch/dp/B00J4JBTDA/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1474403492&sr=8-8&keywords=6%22+putty+knife


1 gallon of this product, 1-- https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-4424-Ready-Patch-1-Quart/dp/B000BQURN8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1474402747&sr=8-4&keywords=patching+compound



In order to get a straight line to bevel the product between # 1 and # 2, you need to nail this, sitting on its narrow edge, sitting on the sill under the window. https://www.amazon.com/Dritz-36-Inch-Wooden-Thick-Yardstick/dp/B000XZZTPS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474403201&sr=8-2&keywords=36%22+wood+ruler

If the window is longer than 36“, you will need 2. These can be cut with a razor knife, or a sharp kitchen knife, first scratching deeply both sides, and then snapping it over the edge of a table. The putty knife will slide across the top of it, and the front edge of the window sill, # 2, as your repair is made. Your 1 inch bevel, from the rulers edge to the corners edge at the shower wall, can be sanded if necessary and painted when dry.

You will need something else to get the product out of the can because 6 inch knives do not fit inside.

Been doing renovations for the past few months and here are some of the tools that have been used the most in our situations.

If you're going to be doing any demo work, do yourself a favor and pick up a large and small prybar. That smaller prybar is sometimes my go to tool (hammer, scraper, prybar, nail puller).

A scraper/spreader of some sort has proved itself invaluable in many a painting project.

Something that's recently been quite useful are locking pliers.

Get yourself a good pair of mechanics gloves. Not these. Not these. THESE. They're form-fitting to your hand and fingers which allow more control & precision (like loosening a bolt in a hard-to-reach spot) without sacrificing safety (like a hammer swing or a stray pry).

Finally, my everyday carry pocket knife has done a heap of work during renovations. It's always on me, I don't have to stop what I'm doing to look for a tool, just cut/pry/dig/scrape/trim/etc.

Hope this helps. Good luck and have fun working on those projects!

Woo! I get to pass on some of my trial and error experience..

43 is....a lot. Hope you have fun.

I used the Sarco Multi M glaze. Since I was only working with wood windows. I was told to absolutely not use the Dap glazing compound and make sure I used a linseed oil compound if I wanted the glazing to last more than a decade. I think I went through a bit more than 2 gallons for 16 windows, including 2 really intricate diamond windows and the rest 2-, 3-, and 4-light uppers and single light lowers. Get some cellophane plastic wrap to put over the putty in the containers (completely cover so that the surface is only touching plastic and no air or else it can cure in the container after a week or two of working.

It was a pain to try and make sure the glazing points were covered by glaze (so they aren't exposed and able to rust). I used the smallest ones I could find: http://www.amazon.com/Fletcher-Terry-08-111-Diamond-Point/dp/B0002YX95W . These come in stacks like brad nails and I didn't have the little gun, so I had to use pliers to separate them to use them manually. Even so, I had to sometimes go back and do a local "touch-up" around the point to cover it still.

I used this tool to push in the points, but had to take wire snipper to cut off part of the tips because the points I used were a bit smaller than it was made for and the little metal tips would hit the wood before the point was fully in.

I used a glazing tool like this one but a bit more durable (that one looks pretty flimsy). The important part for me was the bent knife end (which is sold individually as well) for laying the glaze.

Sash cord, probably 15-20 feet per window.

A paint scraper like this one is really useful for making sure you get all the glazing out of the rabbit. Putty knife is also useful, but this was way more efficient.

I installed spring bronze weather stripping in all the windows. I bought it here but it's also available at a few other places online (they were the cheapest I found). I bought the 100ft coils and cut it to size with tin snips. I estimated ~10-12ft/window (2.5-3ft per sash per side since you want it longer than the actual sash so it doesn't get ripped. Don't forget to get special nails (coppered or bronze) nails (can't use steel or else the metal to metal contact can corrode. I ended up having to pre-drill the holes because the wood along the sash jams was super fibrous and hard. See here

The parting beads will probably break when you remove the windows. You can rip your own with a table saw. Just use a hard wood that is pretty weather resistant like mahogany or something similar (since they shouldn't be painted).

I gave all the windows a complete rub down with linseed oil because they were really old and dry. This is also important because if you don't rub down with oil or prime the window before glazing, the wood will suck the oil out of the compound and it will dry out and crack.

I think the only thing I did that isn't always done (but should be) is putting a bed of glazing under the glass, then putting the glass on, then the glazing points, clearing the glazing that was pushed out when the glass was installed, then the putty over the surface of the glass. This way, the glazing cushions the glass a bit and it also provides a complete seal with compound around the glass.

I think one of the most difficult parts was getting the windows out because the screws had been painted over so many times. It's worth mentioning that this was all somewhat dirty. I did this while other work was being done at the house and while we weren't living there (there's always a lead paint concern with old houses).

If you're in the Boston area, I found a guy who stripped the paint for all of them at an incredibly reasonable rate. He did a really nice job and removed most of the putty for me as well.

Learn from my mistake: be careful when your windows are all glazed, painted, and you're rehanging them. I was using a drill to speed up installing the inner stops. It kicked up, slipped a little, and the handle shattered one of the panes. My neighbors must have heard me cursing...

I referenced:
-this post from TOH: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,640019,00.html
-this post as well: http://thecraftsmanblog.com/how-to-reglaze-old-windows/ The video there is really excellent as well.
-John Leeke really cares about old wood windows: http://www.historichomeworks.com/hhw/index.htm
and a couple blog posts from a series I can't find now

Happy to answer other questions if you have any (worth noting that I'm not an expert). I did bounce a lot of what I did above off the contractors who were working on my house, though, so there was some expert knowledge going into it.

depends. You have two main routes.
A) fast and dirty. Buy http://www.amazon.com/12372-CrackShot-Spackling-Paste-5-5-Ounce/dp/B000HSENKS

and http://www.amazon.com/Great-Neck-125PC-4-Inch-Flexible/dp/B000OC4YUG/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y

Put paste into holes. smooth and make flush with wall with the knife. sand and paint.

or

B) the more labor intensive but correct way.

Get a ready-made drywall patch. These are available at big-box home centers and hardware stores. They use a peel-and-stick, metal-backed patch for added strength.

Clean up the edges of the hole. Trim away frayed edges with a utility knife and press back into place any small chunks still hanging by a flap.

Cut or shape the patch carefully to fit the hole. Make sure to leave extra backing all around the patch to attach to the drywall surrounding the hole.

Clean and dry the repair area to allow maximum adhesion. To clean greasy areas (as in a kitchen), use trisodium phosphate ("TSP"), which can be found at most paint centers. Warm, soapy water can do the job, too, but don't let the drywall get too wet.

Apply the patch to the wall and smooth the taped edges with your putty knife. This will remove air bubbles.

Use a wide-blade putty knife to spread a thin topcoat of joint compound (sometimes called "mud") over the area surrounding the repair. The aim is to create a smooth transition between the patch backing and the surrounding wall. Because the patch backing lies on top of the existing drywall, there can be an unattractive layered look to your work if you don't do something to disguise it. Therefore you must learn to apply compound around the patch in such a way that the patch backing is "feathered" gradually into the rest of the wall. With practice, you'll learn the technique of making this transition smoothly. It will often require more than one coat of mud.

Example: If repairing a 2- to 3-inch (5- to 7.5-cm) hole, you will want to use a 10-inch (24 cm) putty knife to apply a skim coat of joint compound as a final topcoat. Remember to "screed" (gently scrape) the mud in one smooth, final stroke.


Apply a liberal amount of non-shrink joint compound with a putty knife. Wider putty knives will produce smoother results.

Smooth the compound with the putty knife. Pull the blade toward you in one steady, smooth motion, letting the knife make a 30-degree angle with the wall. If your finish doesn't look smooth, simply wipe off the blade, wet it and scrape the wall again. Make the mud as smooth as you can, but don't worry if it's not perfect. You will be able to sand the compound later when it's dry (although this can create a bit of a mess, so it's best to leave it as smooth as possible before it dries).

Let the patched area dry thoroughly before applying additional coats or sanding.

Once the compound is dry, lightly sand the area smooth using drywall sandpaper attached to a drywall sander. (Regular sandpaper will work, just not as well.) If there are large blobs or strips, shave these off with the putty knife first. You want to create as little dust as possible.

Hide minor imperfections with an ultra-thin topcoat of joint compound. Apply this topcoat over pin holes or hairline cracks as if you were trying to scrape it all off with your knife without leaving any behind. With experience, this step can often be accomplished without additional sanding.

When I had a glass top stove I would use the Cerama Bryte and scrape it with a [putty knife] (https://www.amazon.ca/TEKTON-3-Inch-Stiff-Putty-Knife/dp/B000NY6RXM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1458044540&sr=8-2&keywords=putty+knife), being sure to keep the edges of the putty knife from digging into the glass.

He is! Same tool on Amazon for 7 dolla more https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00KXYKQDY/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new

Had the same problem. I used a plastic razor scraper blade (like this: http://www.amazon.com/Original-Mini-Scraper-Titan-razor/dp/B004LO7H34/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1407425946&sr=1-2&keywords=titan+mini+scraper) after spraying with vinegar and water. Worked very well.

You can get a small 1” 1/8 hand scraper.

https://www.amazon.com/Allway-Tools-8-Inch-2-Edge-Scraper/dp/B0019645H8

I think you'd be fine with any putty knife of similar size/shape to the one in the video, like these:

• https://www.amazon.com/HYDE-TOOLS-4101-Putty-Knife/dp/B004V4HVLW/
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Warner-90127-ProGrip-Putty-2-Inch/dp/B000I1QDXO/
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-28-140-4-Inch-Nylon-Handle/dp/B000NNK8DI/
  
  Or go to your local hardware store and ask for a putty knife.