(Part 2) Best recording signal processors according to redditors

The term to google is "Autotune Rackmount Vocal Producer."

Here is one on Amazon for $350.

There are plenty of real time vocal effect products out there. Pitch shift, pitch correction ect. Im not saying Adele uses those features exactly, but if you think she has a mic that is directly wired to a speaker, you may be uninformed.

Edit, heres a live vocal effects processor..

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0035HIL0G/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1465606360&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=digitech+vocal+effects+pedal&dpPl=1&dpID=51nuyI%2BRSEL&ref=plSrch

There's probably a less expensive way to do it in software but this is the hardware she uses

​

https://www.amazon.com/Roland-VT-4-Voice-Transformer/dp/B07JKLMDGX/

I'm just curious as to what your project is? testing the sound blocking of various building techniques or something similar?

an SPL meter is what you are looking for http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sound_pressure#Sound_pressure_level .

First question is are you just looking for relative differences in apparent loudness between your boxes? The reason being is that apparent loudness measured in DB is slightly different than SPL which is an absolute measurement of soundpressure. Rather than trying to rewrite the books and get overly specific sticking to a SPL meter measuring in the A or C scale will work just fine if all you care about is how humans perceive the loudness.

Unless you are going to need logging, calibration to reference standards and all that jazz you are going to find that nearly all of the commercial SPL meters for industrial noise or audio are going to come with the A and C scales which have different weighting. C is probably what I would suggest these days. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/A-weighting

If you are just doing a relative comparison between different box materials, using a SPL meter 1 meter from the box at a set height will probably give you very use able results. I don't have any knowledge on specific meters amazon is chaulk full of decent ones at reasonable prices http://www.amazon.com/American-Recorder-Technologies-Sound-Pressure/dp/B000I4ZVHU/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1420611086&sr=1-2&keywords=sound+level+meter


frequency breakdown and all that will just muddy results and increase your data set and probably won't tell you much more than SPL meters unless you really want pretty graphs. If so you would have to use a reference microphone http://www.amazon.com/Nady-Reference-Measurement-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B00095MG6M/ref=sr_1_5?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1420612085&sr=1-5&keywords=reference+microphone In conjunction with sometype of audio interface ( you can get decent USB ones these days) and finally software to record and log your frequency response http://en.softonic.com/s/audio-spectrum-analyzer-software-free

I'm no acoustical engineer or audio engineer. I just have done this readings from time to time as both my hobby of music production, and for various sound proofing projects. Anyone serious about their home studio uses a reference mic to measure the response and then does their sound deadening accordingly.

Like you said, it's not strictly necessary. I do think there are benefits for tone, however - and I didn't become a believer until I got a better one. This is the one that I am using now ($99). It's definitely a purchase I wish I had made earlier.

There are some other benefits with DIs - having a thruput is really helpful, both sonically and in terms of workflow. Personally I like to record amp and DI simultaneously, especially for bass. When recording guitar, even if you don't want to record an amp because you are in a small space or whatever, running the thruput to a little tiny practice amp is great for monitoring without latency.

Edit:

To try to quantity the improvement in tone with the Radial compared to a cheap DI or running direct into an interface: the bass DI has more low end, and the guitar DI sounds like a clean and dry electric guitar instead of a buzzy cigar box with rubber bands. If your interface has a Hi-Z input the difference will be less drastic (because there is no impedance mismatch), but even taking that into consideration the improvement has been really worthwhile for me.

If you want to limit the amount of editing, I'm curious as to why you want 4k for something as simple as a talking head. I could see if you are keying with a green screen for a possibly better key or shooting something detailed. The crop could be useful if you're going to push in and use it for a sort of fake 2nd shot, but I don't think it's absolutely necessary. There's also the added time of downsampling all your clips.

Add to the fact that you want a side by side of the person and the presentations makes your talking head even smaller. If you plan to deliver in 1920 x 1080 that leaves you with 2x 960 x 540 images (edge to edge, side by side centered in the middle keeping the aspect ratio) for the presentation and the person talking.

That said, I own a GH4 and mostly shoot in 4k so maybe I'm being hypocritical. I've used it for green screen interviews, concerts and other various events. I've always downsampled to deliver in 1080. FYI there's no video time limit on the GH4, but it's a bit above your budget plus you would need a lens.

Audio wise I've used a wired LAV (similar if not the same as the one you posted) via XLR to 1/8" transformer direct into my GH4. External audio recorder will probably give you better results, but that also adds more edit time although Premiere and Final Cut X do a pretty good job at syncing audio. Make sure you record internally on the camera also so it can analyze the audio and match it up.

Specs on Atomos site for the Ninja 2 say it can handle all these resolutions and frame rates.
> 1080i60, 1080i59.94, 1080i50, 1080p30, 1080p25, 1080p24, 1080p23.98, 1080pSF23.98, 1080pSF24, 1080pSF25, 1080pSF30, 720p60, 720p59.94, 720p50, SD 480i, 576i

Get a Cloudlifter.

You need a device called a re-amp box. It is the opposite of a DI box in that it converts low-impedence (mic level) to high impedence (guitar level) signal. If you want to go from the guitar pedals back into a mic or line input, you need a DI box on that end. There is also a pedal by Pigtronix called the Keymaster that converts both ways and has built in effects loops.

Links:
[DIY RE-amp box kit for $43] (http://www.diyrecordingequipment.com/store/kits/line2amp-reamping-box-full-kit/)
[Standard Re-amp box from Radial for $99] (http://www.amazon.com/Radial-Engineering-Re-Amper-Passive-Re-Amping/dp/B000H28JBS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1347055553&sr=8-4&keywords=re-amp+box)
[Pigtronix Keymaster (Re-amp and DI) for $230] (http://www.amazon.com/Pigtronix-REM-Keymaster-Parallel-Effects/dp/B0047DJ3HW/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1347055614&sr=1-1&keywords=pigtronix+keymaster)

(Sorry about the formatting, kinda new at Reddit)

I teach music technology at a college, and I have my students purchase this in their third semester (mix listening class). However, for what you described in comments already, I think that the radioshack meter is probably sufficient.

The professional way to do this, is with a DI box. I think these are the best:

Radial Pro DI Passive Direct Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000A8J3N2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gNYlDbW95JSWJ


But in a budget, an impedance marching transformer will do the trick:

Shure A85F Transformer; Low Z, Female XLR to High Z 1/4-Inch Phone Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006NMUHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GJYlDb4PE0T99

Edit: didn’t want to leave out the a solution.

It doesn't work the way you might hope but something like it is possible. You will want to read about Target Display Mode:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3924

After that, one of these devices should do the trick of enabling you to connect to the iMac in target display mode.

http://www.amazon.com/Kanex-HDMI-Mini-DisplayPort-Converter/dp/B003LGOWNQ/

http://www.amazon.com/Atlona-Technologies-AT-DP200-Signal-Converter/dp/B002JQPRPG/

http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-AV360-Mini-DisplayPort-Converter/dp/B00477ORBK/

Then all you need is a device with an HDMI output like a Roku or an Xbox.

Maybe something like this would work for you?

https://www.amazon.com/TC-Helicon-996366005-Perform-V/dp/B0182MIOOQ/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=vocal+harmonizer&qid=1554925159&s=gateway&sr=8-11

It has a built-in mic that is uses to track harmony/key, and looks to have added app control via phone to unlock additional functions.

You could try something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-Noise-Isolator/dp/B000K50HJE/

or

https://www.amazon.com/ART-DTI-Transformer-Isolator-Eliminator/dp/B0009GUOQA/

But, if that doesn't work, you're probably gonna need an electrician to install a grounded outlet.

The place I used to work has a handful of thse: https://www.amazon.com/Rapco-Horizon-LTIGLBLOX-Laptop-Interface/dp/B003MLBEYK

Has a ground lift, and as long as you don't care about stereo, you don't have to worry about using extra connectors or adapters.

I also have the Radial ProAV2. Which is 2 ch & accepts 1/4, RCA & 1/8" https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/ProAV2--radial-proav2-2-channel-passive-a-v-direct-box

Not without spending some cash. I'm assuming they're coming in remotely? Or else you could just get one of those novelty voice changers from Party City or something. You could try to get one to them but you wouldn't be able to do a whole lot to adjust it if it ended up muddling them too much.

Otherwise you can drop something like this, this, or this into their line. But the cheapest vocal effect (that would anonymize their voice anyway) that you'd be able to control live is gonna set you back around $130. Unless of course you find it on ebay or Reverb. I got a $500 vocal processor for $250 from a pawn shop in LA via ebay so miracles do happen.

For the record if you go that route I recommend that, rather than use something that pitch-bends or distorts, you look for something that specifically "gender-bends" as this will be a much more articulate effect. My processor (the Vocalive 2) actually has a setting that legit makes you sound like a child. It's super creepy.

I use a 1 Spot pedal power supply with these adapters.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004EBG5QE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EZDO400/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

> The rest on the left are short for center, left, right, surround left, sorround right speakers, just ignore them as you are using the ones at the bottom.

Those are inputs, the ones on the bottom are outputs. Some DVD players have an advanced output just for surround sound systems (like this one). OP will pretty much just use Aux 1 though. He may use Aux 2 but from his post it doesn't seem like it. He will need an Digital Audio Out to RCA Audio adapter. Something like:

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-Converter-Adapter/dp/B003OND0N4

Or a Digital Audio Out to 5.1 adapter if we wants to have a better sound:

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-Surround-Decoder/dp/B07CVR9R77

But to confirm, I'd need to see the digital audio out port.

Those HDMI ports are likely input, not output.

Here's the one I bought. It works perfectly with my focusrite. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00172EAD8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1459387764&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=livewire+direct+box&dpPl=1&dpID=51dgaUClCyL&ref=plSrch

Do you need a DI box? - No

Do you need a reamp box - Yes. Get an rca to xlr male cable/adapter and a reamp box

So the reamp chain is: Scarlett RCA output - RCA/XLR Adapter - Reamp Box - 1/4" Cable - Pedals - Scarlett Input (Inst)

What kind of sound system at the other end? PA system with a mixer (live sound) or home stereo equipment?

A regular stereo AUX cord is unbalanced, which is not ideal for running long distances. Technically you should use a DI box like this one (http://www.amazon.com/rolls-DB24-Stereo-Direct-Interface/dp/B001032GK8) to convert to a balanced signal over XLR cables. If you have a mixer on the other end you can go right into 2 channels on the board.

Bluetooth is not idea for sound quality (due to compression of the audio signal), and the general rule of thumb is that Bluetooth range is ~30ft, so 50ft may or may not work.

Don't know what your price range is, but I got a rolls DB24 Rolls Stereo Direct Interface, which passively lets you convert 3.5mm into 2 XLR outs. I use it to be able to plug my phone directly into my monitors, but it would work for your purposes too, I think.

just look up db meter or sound pressure level meter on an iPhone or andriod device and it will give you a ball park by not means is it the best result but it will give you an idea or buy one of These

have you determined if its the modem or the router?

ie: have you tried a speed test on WiFi and one hardwired?

If the hardwired one is poor you may be able to get away with just an amp.

http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Signal-Booster-1-Port-Amplifier/dp/B003T2RY7I

I actually have that exact speaker! I put it in a DIY MDF box that measures out to a total internal volume of 3.5 cubic feet. I got a good deal on a used QSC ISA280 for $100, so that runs through this guy;

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-31-Band-Graphic-Equalizer-Subwoofer/dp/B00KLRP5CK

But, since this was a small purchase at a time, I should have just bit the bullet and gone with this instead;

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-NU3000DSP-BEHRINGER-iNUKE/dp/B005EHINAS/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1540510237&sr=1-1&keywords=inuke+3000dsp

It's a very powerful combo, but I only use it for music so I made the enclosure sealed as opposed to ported. This means it's doesn't play down into the low 20hz range, but almost all music doesn't go that low anyway. You could easily build or buy a ported enclosre and use the DSP on the Inuke to boost the bottom end.

I've been super happy with it as a driver, and am considering getting 2 of the 10" as bass drivers for a pair of DIY semi-open baffle full range towers I'm thinking of building.

Great sub, you will not be unhappy with it! I got mine because the goddamn Ultimax 18" is constantly on backorder. I've also surprisingly heard good things about some of the Rockville car subs, but ultimately went with the Skar.

Good luck, and I hope you get what you are looking for!

Older image of my in progress setup;

https://imgur.com/a/Ct1kKdz

And, while not the greatest box in the world, this could save you a lot of time and effort if you decide to go ported and not DIY it;

https://www.amazon.com/Single-Subwoofer-Universal-Speaker-Enclosure/dp/B00IFEG6YW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540510954&sr=8-3&keywords=18%22+sub+box

Hmm seems like it's simple at first but in the end it's not. It's essentially up to whoever wrote the driver for your soundcard whether or not they provide an equalizer. Some do but most do not. Those that do you need to make sure it works for the Windows Driver and not just the ASIO drive. For example my TASCAM US-322 has an EQ for the ASIO driver but not for the Windows driver. On the other hand my Realtek has a software EQ for the Windows Driver but no ASIO driver at all.

So in my case if I wanted to use it for all general Windows audio I'd need to use my Realtek soundcard and the advanced software control panel to use the EQ.

Your other choice ofc. as other have mentioned is to buy a hardware Equalizer: http://smile.amazon.com/Monoprice-31-Band-Graphic-Equalizer-Subwoofer/dp/B00KLRP5CK/

There are tons of outboard fx units out there -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xw5RtdIEzz4



You could go with a small desk mixer with built in FX, but some may not have all the ones you're looking for -

(just an example)

• https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-PROFX4V2-4-Channel-Compact-Effects/dp/B00VUU702A/
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-MG10XU-10-Input-Stereo-Effects/dp/B00IBIVL42/
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-1202FX-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B000J5Y214/
  
  ---------------
  
  
  or a dedicated multi-FX processor
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Virtualizer-FX2000-High-Performance-Multi-Engine/dp/B003EZXMS0
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/TC-Electronic-Reverb-Effects-Processor/dp/B001R5G70O
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/TC-Electronic-M100-ELECTRONIC/dp/B0731N1HY3
  
  
  ---------------
  
  or a dedicated vocal fx unit (some of these are made for live performance, hence the foot switches)
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Roland-VT-4-Voice-Transformer/dp/B07JKLMDGX/
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Helicon-Voice-Vocal-Effects-Processor/dp/B00GM0NX3S/
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Eventide-H9-Core-Harmonizer-Pedal/dp/B01CY237P6/
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/TC-Helicon-Effects-Processor-Burgundy-996369005/dp/B074TRXB21/
  
  
  There's a plethora of them... just hunt around on sweetwater, musicansfriend, or BHphoto to see some ideas.
  
  ---------------
  
  The Roland is pretty cool , because it lets you adjust things on the fly easier -
  
  (this is like what the Beastie Boys used for "Intergalactic")
  
  Roland VT-3
  
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZeHHV1LPfOo (@1:02)
  
  Roland VT-4 demos
  
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xw5RtdIEzz4
  
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5kkYemu-gs
  
  
  

Hey man, sorry it's been a while. Let me ask you if this is a good deal? I'm running a Scarlet solo, so would it be good to run that through the Cloudlifter and into the SM7B?

This one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CY237P6/

They should make coax optical to 7.1 analog out boxes, I'd do a search for those.

Something like this maybe?
https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-Surround-Decoder/dp/B07CVR9R77

I was a grounding issue with the laptop I was using here is the link to the adapter I bought to fix it Rapco Horizon LTIGLBLOX Laptop Interface With Ground lift https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MLBEYK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CYbDyb847KGTH

Warning: this should work, but these things can always be a crapshoot.

I work in pro/live audio, and there's a special piece of kit we tend to use to get rid of the kind of ground hum you're talking about. Typically they're called isolators/isolated transformers/isolated splitters/etc.

One of the most cost effective yet also most impressive variants is this one: https://www.amazon.com/ART-DTI-Transformer-Isolator-Interface/dp/B0009GUOQA

You could just get one 1/8" to 1/4" adapter, or a 1/8" to RCA cable or something, and try running it through this. It's a very versatile little thing. Any input 1 is matched to any output 1. Any output 2 is matched to any output 2. No need to configure or learn anything to use it. Plug and play, as we call it.

Someone will probably have a better solution, but that's how I would go about it. Best of luck!

That's different than what he suggested. He was talking about an active DI input into one channel, and then the thru of the DI going to pedals/amp the and then just micing that. Tends to work pretty well even if not using pedals - you just pick one source as the main (usually the amp) and then just EQ the heck out of the other signal to fill in any weaknesses (in this case, filtering the DI signal to regain some bass and then mixing it fairly subtly. Optionally, you could also filter out some of the lows of the amp channel).

That said, there is a "right way" to route to an external guitar pedal/amplifier - the trick is a device called a re-amp (example: http://www.amazon.com/Radial-Engineering-Re-Amper-Passive-Re-Amping/dp/B000H28JBS/ ), and it's sort of like a DI in reverse - it goes from line level to guitar level. So the chain goes (non-main-line-out)->(re-amp)->(pedals if desired)->(DI or mic'd amp)->(input) . Pain in the butt to set up, but pretty much the correct method if such a thing exists.

Also, the wrong way is not without its merits - depends on your preferences of course.

(Edited to not sound like there's only one correct way to do things)

Get a passive DI box and run the XLR master out to that then RCA from the DI to the tube amp.

You need to bring the +4dBu output of the mixer's XLR down to -10dBu of consumer line level audio. And a passive stereo DI is the best way to do that. That particular one linked above also gives you another ground lift and some gain flexibility with the volume pots. But there's a ton of different options.

Passive DI into the first input?
https://www.amazon.com/Livewire-SPDI-Passive-Direct-Attenuation/dp/B00172EAD8/
Or for about the same cost you could get a Rocksmith cable...

I believe when adding shipping costs, the second seller (NU Image) in this list has the best price. Their ratings aren't so great. From a well-know seller, I think this is probably the best price. Both of them ship to Canada. Good luck!

Because he wants to control it, I'd suggest a dedicated effects processor with a remote or a pedal type device.

I don't know anything about this unit, but it has XLR in and out:

http://www.amazon.com/Digitech-Vocalist-Harmony-Correction-Guitarists/dp/B0035HIL0G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&keywords=pitch+change+pedal

/u/flexcube - sorry to hear about the loss of your gear - glad that you're able to replace it.

This looks like a good setup - I am a GH4 shooter and it is a great camera.

That said, you might want to consider getting the [1.349,00€ GH4R] (http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0156X5MYO/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1638&creative=19454&creativeASIN=B0156X5MYO&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerev02-21) for V-LOG and increased dynamic range.

In addition, if you expose to the right with V-Log, the GH4 becomes a better low light camera than with the original firmware - and can get clean results up to ISO 5000 (or even 6400), as seen here:

• [V-LOG L VS CINE D - Low Light Test - Panasonic GH4 by Mitch Lally] (https://youtu.be/n97zc5zIA70) (please note the lack of noise at ISO 6400 in the V-LOG shot)
  
  
• [Band Promo // GH4 // V-Log by Play Reel Productions] (https://vimeo.com/146034870) (crowd shots at ISO 5000)
  
  
• [GH4 V-Log Low light test by Iban Corominas] (https://vimeo.com/146841470)
  
  
• [GH4 // V-Log // Low light test 5000 iso by Play Reel Productions] (https://vimeo.com/142443785)
  
  With this [687,96€ (shipping included) 12-35mm lens] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/707-53477-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=391441605632&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229487&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) from the UK, the camera plus the lens will cost you 2.036,96€.
  
  I would also consider an [inexpensive 3 axis gimbal] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/707-53477-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=262217468852&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229487&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg), and a [balanced XLR mic] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/707-53477-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=371397275267&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229487&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) with an [impedance matching cable] (http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00EHTIHA0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1638&creative=19454&creativeASIN=B00EHTIHA0&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerev02-21) instead of the Glidecam and the unbalanced 3.5mm Videomic.
  
  Hope this is helpful and good luck with your new camera!
  
  

Thanks for replying!

You mean something like this?

First off, good idea, but i run the sound from my laptop via usb to the mixer, which does not generate any noise. this looks more like a solution for my problem, in the end he uses a double insulated charger and theres no noise, i should look for smth like that!

Thanks for the reply. The line from the street goes through a female to female splice, followed by two 2-way splitters before the modem. There is really no way to remove the splitters without rewiring the entire house unfortunately. The splice and the first splitter are mounted on the exterior of the house, so thats what really made the Motorola amplifier attractive. (it looks quite weather proof!) The description officially says a 32x signal boost, but the image shows +15 db on the front face plate. I see this variant of the mororolla amplifier which has an active return path. What does this mean?

It seems my downstream signal is largely OK, but its my upstream signal that is the issue, correct? Are there amplifiers available that will amplify only the upstream signal?

I found this PCT amplifier which seems to be variable gain (up to 15 db gain), perhaps this would be the better choice? Is a VG amplifier the way to go or the use of an attenuator? Could I also get a +15 db amplifier with more outputs than I need (each internal split for the output should reduce the output gain on each line from the overall +15 db gain)?

There are hundreds of generic multi-barrel DC adapters out there available to be purchased from essentially any store whatsoever that sells electronics and virtually all of them will work with all of these systems, presuming correct polarity (or ignoring it, in the NES case).

And on Ebay or Amazon, you can buy very cheap DC adapters for other random devices which just happen to have the same polarity, an acceptable voltage (most of these systems regulate down to 5V internally, meaning voltage doesn't particularly matter as long as it's at least 7V, and the NES even uses a rectifier, so polarity doesn't matter).

Really, the "universal" adapters sold for video game systems specifically are the worst of all available solutions. Often they don't have sufficient amperage for the systems they claim to support. They're made with the cheapest possible components. And they just "ballpark" the voltage, which is usually fine (given these systems, as I say, usually run all components off regulated 5V), but isn't optimal.

Given the price of a Sega MK-1602 (kind of the swiss army knife of DC adapters, given it'll power SMS, Genesis, Sega CD, NES, compatible Game Gears and PC Engine, among others), it makes all the sense in the world to just buy a generic 1.5A (or something) DC adapter with replaceable barrels and adjustable voltage for $15 or so. Or, if you want to save a little money, do an Amazon/Ebay search for an adapter with the specific specs you're looking for (regardless of what it was actually made to be used with), selling for $5.

If you need a centre-positive adapter (e.g., Genesis 2, some Game Gears), you can either try to find one straight up (they're much less common), or get a negative adapter and a polarity converter.

A onespot polarity shifter, hosa stereo 3.5mm to mono TS, and a 2.1mm to 1.7 mm power jack barrel. All available on Amazon

uxcell 2.1 x 5.5mm Female to 4 x 1.7mm Male AC DC Power Connector Adapter Laptop 10pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EZDO400/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_k5OkybV1G25X1

Truetone CYR Converter for One Spot Power Supply with Reverse Polarity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EBG5QE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Y4OkybMV16QJE

Hosa CMP-105 1/4 inch TS to 3.5 mm TRS Mono Interconnect Cable, 5 feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_u4OkybB24R9P1

Tascam TA1VP Vocal Producer Processor With Antares Autotune https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004OA6JU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_q77FAbM6AK34E

ah, well therein lies the issue, though, as with all connectors if it can be plugged in it can be converted.

http://www.amazon.com/NuForce-U192S-High-Performance-Asynchronous-Converter/dp/B007XIK39A

http://www.computeraudiophile.com/f6-dac-digital-analog-conversion/15-universal-serial-bus-industry-standard-cables-connectors-and-communications-protocols-between-computers-and-electronic-devices-spdif-converters-shootout-15327/

In any case, audophilia is a slippery slope that will quickly empty your wallet. If you were looking for a cheap solution, then a 3.5mm extender will do just fine. Amazon has a amazon basics version I would imagine for cheap.

This one is only $50 and will do the same thing.

http://www.amazon.com/NuForce-U192S-High-Performance-Asynchronous-Converter/dp/B007XIK39A/ref=pd_sim_sbs_misc_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0X1PXB1ZPD7CB81XKCZT