(Part 2) Best reptile & amphibian habitat decor according to redditors

I just wanted to say-- thank you so much for taking time to learn about betta's and not just go off of what the general population seems to think.

One additional suggestion-- make sure that any plants you offer are either silky or live plants. The plastic ones will tear up their fins. You can often find nicer silky ones in the reptile sections of pet stores or Amazon rather than the fish. Like this one for example. It also offers lots of hidey space, which betta love!

The hanging /suction cup silk plants in the reptile section could also be neat, though I've never used them in a tank personally. It might be cool to have a plant sort of trailing down in a corner.

They definitely should have a filter, but make sure it's not too strong of one. You might be better with an under gravel filter or two small filters. Also-- make sure you buy a temperature gauge. You want to check regularly to make sure the heater is still working properly-- 75-80F water always feels cool to the skin so it's hard to tell.

I would take almost all of your rocks and sticks out of the enclosure and add another 7-8 inches of substrate. I personally don't add anything with sharp edges like rocks or rough decorations just to minimize risk. Just take it slow with her. They are simple creatures, and over time you will learn to understand their behaviors better. If you have just purchased her, she may be stressed, and that could be a reason she is on the wall in the first place instead of settling into a hide in the bottom. Speaking of hides, I can't tell if you have one from your photo. I would go buy one of these from a petstore that you can put in the cage with her after removing other unneeded additions. It will make a very simple hide that she can retreat to if she feels threatened.

Exo Terra Plastic Terrarium Plant, Large, Mandarin https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AR5F6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_m9XzCb8Y7DPFQ

Tried and true.

Also, ditch the gauges, they’re wildly inaccurate.

Leos enjoy small spaces, but not TOO small. They are flexible but probably don’t want to cram themselves into something if they don’t have to. Every gecko is different tho.

If you want store bought hides my guys seem to particularly love the different sizes of Exo Terra Gecko Caves. For their warm hides I put them in without the bottoms and they seem to like resting their heads on the openings.

But in reality any space that is dark will work. They just want to feel secure.

They will lay outside their hides at times. I take it as a sign they are comfortable with their environment. One of mine particularly likes laying at the back of his tank under one of his plants.

I keep my turtle tank bare because they can create a lot of waste but if you want to spruce it up a bit you can add some river rocks! Make sure to wash them a bit since they are a slightly dusty

Exo Terra Turtle Pebbles, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035HD408/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UZMODb2Y843TK

Also I dunno if Tuck has a uvb or heat bulb? He'll need those to properly shed and prevent metabolic bone disease

This is what I have for my girl

Zoo Med Aquatic Turtle UVB Heat Lighting Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CYDEARU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_g7MODb4DVDTNA

Zoo Med Reptile Lamp Stand (Large) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255OUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_99MODbSNSH1X9


Hygger Submersible Aquarium Heater, Adjustable Fish Tank Heater Compact Reliable Betta Heater, Heat-Resistant Milky Quartz Made, with External Temp Controller, 50W/100W/300W, 7-60 Gallon (300W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G4BKPHB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_f.MODbB3P6Q26

I hope this helps you out!

I bought a vine that came with something like this.

I don't know if those exactly will fit, but they keep mine secured.

I prefer the ones that are held up with magnets as they're much less likely to fall.

​

I have one similar to this:


https://www.amazon.com/Pangea-Ultimate-Gecko-Ledge-Magnetic/dp/B00B5I7CO8

T Rex skull: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OQPYOJS/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_f8KLDbR8M2K5R

Dinosaur eggs: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KSKO508/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_C9KLDb89DAMVN

Cave:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1EOR0K/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_h-KLDbSSN9RG3

Platform: https://www.petsmart.com/reptile/habitats-and-decor/habitat-decor/all-living-things-slate-basking-platform-37985.html?cgid=500116

Cork hide: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVC8SC/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_acLLDb5GZK5B4

Also one more question, my apologies.

How necessary are these feeders? I would prefer (aesthetically) to have my feeding bowl and pond at the bottom
https://www.amazon.com/Pangea-Ultimate-Gecko-Ledge-Suction/dp/B07F7H3NYM/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=reptile+feeder&qid=1554438447&s=gateway&sr=8-12

I just searched terrarium background on amazon, here’s a link to it.

I got this one from the same person I bought the dragon from. They're called Carolina Custom Cages. I couldn't find this exact same background, but I found a similar one they're selling. carolinacustomcagesamazon

Thanks!

I got them from Amazon. If you old it up through glass alone, it should be fine, but the material you see on my tank might be a bit harder for the force to go through so I use powerful velcro to hold it in place

Magnaturals Rock Ledge (Granite, Large) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DOZGY4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_x8OOCbMQ124GN

Hammock, but also check out MagNaturals Rock Ledge (large). It's a great and unique decoration. https://www.amazon.com/MagNaturals-Rock-Ledge-Granite-Large/dp/B00DOZGY4E

I recently ordered and put this vine in the tank and my crested loves it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AR5EC

Welcome!

Hes adorable, I have a couple crested and a gargoyle, Id say that all in all its been a relatively easy experience, just make sure they have enough hides, your humidity and temperature are correct, and theyre able to find their food in their cage for start.

In terms of food I highly suggest Pangea fruit mix, Mine prefer the Mango Watermelon flavor, and I treat them with a few crickets here or there. I would also suggest a magnetic feeding ledge since they prefer to eat up high!

Fruit Mix:
https://www.amazon.com/Watermelon-Mango-Pangea-Fruit-Complete/dp/B00KO450UC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468774123&sr=8-2&keywords=pangea

Feeding Ledge:
https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Gecko-Ledge-Magnetic-Feeder/dp/B00B5I7CO8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1468774151&sr=8-4&keywords=feeding+ledge

Im no expert but these are a couple thinks that Ive found that made it all go more smoothly since I first had the scare of them not eating, enjoy your new Gecko!

That's awesome that you moved from sand, it can actually kill leos, particularly babies. The cricket stuff you're using sounds good too!

As for suggestions, definitely the UTH and thermostat combo I linked, since those are both decently priced. I've used these hides and have liked them, but you can definitely get away with just buying the Petsmart/Petco ones and it may be a little cheaper. Likewise, some people just cut opaque tupperware or use broken (but smooth-edged) pots and stuff as well. I even had a friend who made their hides out of legos.

Here are the links to the two I got off amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Repta-Vines-Pothos-Reptiles-Amphibians/dp/B0009YEB70/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=terrarium+plants+reptile&qid=1569816888&sprefix=terrarium+pl&sr=8-7


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001B57KZ6?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

My experience comes from a YBS. Map turtles appear to be a bit smaller, but in general look like they need the same kind of care (aquatic environment with room/heat to sun, UVB, etc.).

You can start with a small tank and upgrade, but I wouldn't recommend too many steps in here. In other words, it's a waste of money to start with a 10 gallon, upgrade to a 20, then a 50, then a 75, etc. The general rule of thumb seems to be 10 gallons per inch of shell. So a two inch turtle needs a 20 gallon tank, a fully grown female will need a 100 gallon tank. Petco has regular $1/gallon sales, up to X gallons. You could find a good deal on a 40 gallon breeder tank this way that would last you a good amount of time, and upgrade to a larger tank once you determined male/female and saved up some money. Or go smaller, but then you'll need to upgrade sooner. Don't forget, when you upgrade the tank, you'll likely need to upgrade the filter, lighting, etc.

Shopping List Not shopping around at all, so some prices may be high, but if I were setting things up like new for a 20 gallon long tank:

• Ceramic heat bulb, $20
  
• Heat Lamp Dome, $20
  
• T5 Terrarium Hood, $50
  
• T5 UVB Bulb, $25
  
• Canister Filter, $50
  
• Tank, $20
  
• Ramp, $15
  
  Add to this any aquarium decorations you might want, timers really help out for controlling lights. I also have an air pump on timers ($15, plus tubing and stones), mostly to help agitate the surface of the water. You'll probably want something like this or a surface skimmer to help keep the surface clear. Most of that stuff can wait, it's just extras, but hopefully it helps give you an idea. All total, you're looking at $200, rounded out on the high end. You can shave a lot off by shopping around though. When looking at filters, remember that turtles are dirtier than fish. I'd aim for one that's rated at 3x the size of the tank you have. So if you have a 20 gallon tank, even if it's only filled up half way, look at filters rated for 60 gallons or more. Edit: IIRC local pet stores sell starter kits with most of this included that would probably cut down on the price as well.
  
  Honestly never had a problem with my turtle that would rate a vet visit.
  
  Mine has nibbled at me before, but he's too small to do any damage. The only reason he has is when I'm feeding him treats or something, he's never bitten me to be aggressive. With the exception of snappers, I wouldn't call them an aggressive species, but like any animal, they'll each have a different personality.
  
  
  
  

This one's my favorite, and cheap, too.

I found the quote mentioned earlier just in case you wanted see if your Beardie meets any other Brumation criteria. Actually, my male BD stopped eating/was sluggish for about 5 days, but didn't actually go to sleep until I rearranged his tank and there was a cozy spot to pass out. They seem to prefer sleeping under some sort of cover like a Critter Cavern. Hope this helps :)

> Most Bearded Dragons will get a bit cranky just prior to going down for their long sleep, and many may not want you to handle them as you usually do. Most don’t get nasty about it, but they make it known that they really don’t want to be bothered, and would rather be left alone.

Niteangel Jungle Vines, Reptile Habitat Décor (98'' x 0.6'') https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073NZZZDH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kv3MBbBFVR86T

They make half logs (fake, it's a resin or something) for terrariums that I use to keep a couple catfish happy since they kept kicking each other out of the desirable cave. It's aquarium safe, but don't go scrubbing on it too much with vinegar or anything or the paint will come off.

Fairly certain this is what I have -- Link

https://www.amazon.com/PIVBY-Bearded-Flexible-Climbing-Chameleon/dp/B07HFT3C78/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=terrarium+decor&qid=1564174696&s=gateway&sr=8-5

Your tank setup needs a bit of work. Generally there should be 10 gallons of water per inch of shell. For a 4 inch turtle, a 40 gallon tank is good. A bigger tank allows for some room to grow.

There should be water in the tank at least twice the shell length of the turtle, so you'll want a lot more water. Turtles are primarily aquatic animals. But don't simply just add a bunch of water. Slowly increase the water by an inch or two each day so your turtle adjusts to swimming and how deep the water is.

Get rid of the blue substrate. It's small enough for the turtle to eat and is a possible choking hazard. It's also a pain in the ass to clean. If you really want rocks, you can get river pebbles that are bigger than the turtles head and he won't be able to eat. The rocks really don't so anything for the turtle though - it's just tank aesthetics for you. They do tend to make cleaning more difficult as well. Add in that space is already limited in a 10 gallon tank and I would remove the bottom layer altogether.


With the addition of more water, your current baskin rock is not likely going to stay above the water level. I would recommend a ramp that adheres to the side of the tank. I use the medium version of this ramp for my 5+ inch RES. I used the small one when I first got my turtle and had a 10 gallon tank and both I and my turtle love it.

There's 3 important things when it comes to lighting. First is a heat source so that the basking area is warmer than the water. I don't remember the ideal temperatures, but they should list them somewhere on the site you found (I think 85ish for basking? Don't take my word for it though). From the pictures, you may want to move the lamp closer to the basking spot. The second important thing is UVB. These lights typically don't produce heat, but the UVB is crucial for the turtle's shell. This is often neglected by newer turtle owners, but during the day you'll want these two lights. I now use some size of this double dome lamp after using two separate lamps for a while. The third thing is to provide a change from day to night. A night bulb is fine, but completely optional. The important thing is that the turtle recognizes the fact that the "sun" has gone down when the main lights go off. It doesn't really matter if a night bulb comes on or not. Timers are the best way to regulate the bulbs. You can get ones aimed at reptiles at your local pet store or online (with more features), or you can use Christmas lights timers.

Finally there's water temperature. Like with the basking area, I don't remember the ideal water temperature. I think it's 75ish, but again - check Austin's turtle site or one of the other RES sites. If the ambient room temperature is the right temperature at all times of day throughout the year, then you may be able to get away without a water heater. More likely than not, you'll want a water heater to keep things at the right temp. It's especially more important since you'll have more water in your tank soon. Some underwater tank heater is probably fine. Ideally one that you can adjust the temperature on - but one with a built in temperature setting that matches the ideal temperature is okay for now. By the way, with all the temperatures that you want to monitor, getting a laser thermometer is often recommended. I don't have one, but you'll definitely want to have some way to measure the temp of the water and basking area.

I'll see about posting a couple pictures of my turtles setup (both my 10g tank from my starter kit and my 40g tank now) so you can get an idea of how much water is needed.

This one! ☺️👌 It's neat, sturdy, and bendable!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078W3441Z?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

The one in the pictures is bioactive, so it has a soil mix with CUC (isopods and springtails) and live plants. You can use fake plants for sure, you can buy them on Amazon or at a craft store. Just make sure they don’t have sharp points or loops the snake can get stuck in. I cut a square in the lid of the tub. You can use a soldering iron to melt and cut it, but since I don’t have one, I heated it with a hair dryer a little at a time and used a utility knife. You have to go slow and heat it to soften the plastic or it will crack. I used duct tape on the outside of the lid, and underneath to “seal” it and fill gaps I used high temperature hot glue. I have seen several people use zip ties to attach their screens, and one person said they used their soldering iron to melt the screen edges into the plastic.

Edit to say one plant is not real in this, it has a suction cup and I got it on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Plastic-Terrarium-Mandarin/dp/B0002AR5EC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=terrarium%2Bplants&qid=1563129161&s=gateway&sprefix=terrari&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1

Wow, I'm going to need a photo shoot like this at least once in my lifetime. Here's some stuff I found :D

Dress 1

Dress 2

Flower Crown

Vines, I thought it would be cool to use as a belt or maybe a bracelet, or a crown or any accessory really.

• glass tank with mesh top. glass is a poor insulator for heat, and all that air flow with the mesh top allows both heat and humidity to escape.
  
• i assume by log you mean a half log like this, which is not an adequate hide [without modification] because they are too open and leave the snake too exposed.
  
• is your UTH regulated by a thermostat? what type of thermometer[s] do you use, and exactly where in the enclosure do you measure temperatures?
  
• the enclosure should NOT be in direct sunlight. your BP doesn't need direct sunlight, and you're basically creating a greenhouse which can quickly become way too hot.
  
• you shouldn't be using a fogger. going back to the first point, air flow is your problem with humidity. you're also creating a damp environment where your snake can develop scale rot. depending on what type of substrate you're using, this can also create a huge mold problem. you don't live in an arid climate, so you should be able to maintain 60%+ humidity with just a large water dish if your air flow is properly reduced.
  
  let's address the basic issues with your setup before thinking about making a five story house for a BP.

I have something similar to this https://smile.amazon.com/Prevue-Hendryx-Naturals-Hideaway-Ladder/dp/B007PO3AEC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=bird+cocnut+hide&qid=1555337929&s=gateway&sr=8-3-spell .

I also have live plants on the bottom of the tank (tall bushy with large leaves able to take cresty weight) and fake plants hanging from the walls. Like this https://smile.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Plastic-Terrarium-Mandarin/dp/B0002AR5F6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=reptile+fake+plants&qid=1555338104&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Hah, awesome! I used to use regular tweezers, then got REALLY tired of it -- I'd have a tendency to crush the crickets if I happened to actually catch one.

[These are what I recommend.] (http://www.amazon.com/EK-tools-Craft-Tweezers-Package/dp/B00AZRGEF8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417109078&sr=8-1&keywords=reverse+tweezers) Squeeze to open, release to close. So, you can snag a cricket by the leg or even the body and not worry about crushing it. :)

I just got a new cricket keeper from PetCo a while ago, too. It has two square tubes which slide through trapdoors high in the sides of the box. The tubes rest at a 45 degree angle and the crickets climb inside where it's nice and dark. I can just pull one of the tubes out and tap some crickets into the vivarium. :)

[Here's one] (http://www.amazon.com/Lee-20080-Kricket-Keeper-Small/dp/B001OVBDDM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417109329&sr=8-1&keywords=cricket+keeper) on Amazon, not the same one I have but same concept.

There’s a really great product that could help you out. https://www.amazon.com/Lees-20080-Kricket-Keeper-Small/dp/B001OVBDDM

https://www.reddit.com/r/turtle/comments/8csy77/mikeys_new_condo/?utm_source=reddit-android

That's what it looks like (with more water than shown) it's a 40gal breeder tank with river rocks and a large basking dock.

The dock:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004PBCFG2?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

The rocks:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0035HD408?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

I have 2 bags of rocks in there right now, but I am going to add a third. To prep them, I put them in my kitchen sink, filled it with water, moved them around to knock any dirt/ particles off, drain and repeat until the water came clean, then I plugged the sink, boiled a bunch of water and put the boiling hot water into the sink until it covered all the rocks and let them sit for 30 minutes to kill any gems that might have been on them.

If you have any other questions, just ask.