(Part 2) Best scanners & testers according to redditors

Lots of others have mentioned great projects, so let me give you a general overview of what you should know, and then you can tackle just about anything.

For every project:

• Watch youtube videos for whatever you want to do until you're pretty comfortable. Make sure the person looks professional. "This old house" is a great resource.
  
• ALWAYS take off jewelry and things like wallet chains. Wedding bands are especially notorious for electrical accidents or something awful called "Degloving." Google if you want to be horrified or have an iron stomach when looking at gore.
  
• Most projects are "Safe" if you know how to disengage and engage the shutoffs and what to watch out for.
  
• Assume whatever you're using is going to spread everywhere (sawdust) or get on things you'd never expect (spray foam on the nice rug 10' away). So cover them or move them.
  
  Electrical:
  
  
• Buy a non-contact voltage tester. It'll tell you if you're about to shock yourself or not. Check it every time you walk away and come back. I also put masking tape over breakers I'm working on just in case somebody walks by and decides it needs to be flipped.
  
• Always work with your right hand only (even if you're left handed). This is to keep a shock from traveling through your heart, which is on your left side of the body. Don't work on a wet/damp surface. Wear thick wool socks and shoes or boots with lots of rubber left on them.
  
  Plumbing:
  
  
• find your whole-house water shutoff, and the shutoffs (if they're there) for the sink or wherever else you're working.
  
• Also, if you do anything with compression fittings, under-tighten them (never over-tighten). Turn the water on (just a bit) and if it's dripping, do a quarter turn and wipe dry with a towel. Repeat until it's no longer dripping. If you overtighten them, they'll leak and you can't undo it without replacing the fitting. It took me 5 trips to Home Depot to learn this...
  
  General:
  
  
• Never climb a ladder without somebody else around. Always take the time to go down it, if you have to fiddle with changing drillbits or something, or have the helper-person take care of it (and hold the ladder when needed). It doesn't matter how good your ladder is, if you're pushing against a wall with a drill, you can easily destabilize yourself.
  
• Buy a deadman's switch that plugs in like an extension cord, and swap it to any saw or cutting device you are using (even the dremel). Alternatively, spend a few more bucks and get a variable speed foot pedal.
  
• Don't do anything you don't feel like you "know" enough to do, yet.
  
• Learn how blades buckle in saws, and about kickback, before using power saws.
  
• Use a GOOD stud detector before going into the wall. If you hit something hard and you aren't sure what it is, back the drill out and take a look. You could be hitting a water pipe, an electrical cable, or are just unlucky and hit a nail in the stud.
  
• Use goggles and hearing protection. Your ears don't feel pain. Power tools are louder and more damaging than they sound like.
  
• Working with chemicals? Use a gas mask (I like a full painter's mask that incorporates eye protection, because they don't fog like goggles can with a mask on).
  
• Working with dust, use a dust mask or gas mask.
  
• If you have gas mask, you have to seal the cartridges or they go bad fast.
  
• Go to Walmart (because it's much cheaper) and buy a gallon of their solvents before working with chemicals. Know which solvent works on what. Buy low VOC mineral spirits (if available), and acetone. Mineral spirits is going to be for exterior/oil paints, shellacs, and stains. Acetone is going to be for spray foam, certain adhesives, etc. Get an empty tin can with a lid for storing the "used solvent." Btw, I reuse my solvent several times, basically as a "prewash." The sediment falls to the bottom.
  
• If you're working with something creating sparks (angle grinder) be aware of where those sparks are flying, have a nearby fire extinguisher, and if you can, dampen the area first (like mop your garage floor). Angle grinders combined with dust, sawdust, and/or scrap wood has started fires.
  
• If working with oil based products/mineral spirits, learn how to properly dispose of things like brushes and rags, they can spontaneously combust if left in a heap!
  
• Be aware that on high-end drills, there's a button that can lock them into "always on" mode.
  
  Tool List
  
  
• Non-contact voltage tester (and other useful items)
  
• 3M Full Face Gas Mask There's cheaper chinese knockoffs. You have to buy cartridges (get a set for dust and at least one set for VOC - aka gasses like mineral spirits and ammonia)
  
• Variable Speed Foot Pedal Can be used like a deadmans switch by fully depressing.
  
• Water/leak alarms for peace of mind or sudden failures
  
• Stud finder with live AC and metal detection
  
• Hearing Protection
  
• Goggles (observe where the vents are and if it looks like dust can easily fall into them) or just use the face mask
  
• Acetone
  
• Mineral Spirits
  
• Metal, lidded, disposal bucket. A paint bucket with a lid also works. Note that paint buckets are a different kind of plastic specifically made to resist solvents.
  
• A large pack of disposable gloves (make sure they aren't something you or a helper are allergic to, eg latex).
  
• Inspection Camera
  
  Projects to avoid as a beginner
  
  
• Major reconstruction (wall removal)
  
• Retaining walls over 1' tall
  
• HVAC
  
• Tile
  
• Traditional wood plank flooring (BUT engineered/click-lock is super easy)
  
• Plumbing that isn't compression fittings or threaded (aka, plex/sharkbite/welding)
  
• Anything on the roof
  
• Anything attached to the outside of your home (where you might inadvertently create leaks or rot in your exterior walls)
  
• Precise woodworking (altering your cabinets in your kitchen)
  
  Projects I'd always recommend hiring out
  
  
• Tile with real stone, metal or glass
  
• Granite anything
  
• Decks (probably, although make sure the deck builder knows how to properly attach to a house. 70% of decks in the USA aren't and are causing rot and damage)
  
• Structural engineering (wall removal/additions, tall retaining walls)
  
• Most HVAC
  
• Solid wood plank floor or refinishing. (Refinishing is possible, it's just a good 10 hours of work per 50 sqft, or more, super dusty, and makes the house pretty unlivable. Easy to screw up. Best to get an experienced pro in to do it quickly).
  
• Anything near your "mains" that feed into your breaker-box (the part coming from the electrical company). Such as replacing the breaker box itself.
  
  Home improvement is very satisfying and not all that hard. Most people have a story of being lazy once or twice and having a near accident. I've been shocked by 120v (like in your wall)... twice. I've had saw blades break. Just be safe for that 5% of the time you're using something dangerous, and never get too lazy to grab the safety gear.

Start small, do your homework, think the project through and then just do it! You will definitely make some mistakes, but see it as the price of learning to DIY. Just try and avoid potentially dangerous situations...

• Get a "stud finder" (something like this) to help you avoid drill holes in electrical conduits, water- or gas pipes.
  
• Use safety glasses and hearing protection whenever using power tools (or even striking tools like hammers and chisels).
  
• Wear a mask when creating dust and be weary of breathing in airborne particles. Some types (i.e. asbestos or even mold) can cause severe health issues.
  
• Whenever using a new tool, substance or material, be sure to read (and follow!) the instructions. Especially regarding ventilation, fire, etc.
  
• Stop working when you are tired, or mistakes will be made.
  
• Measure twice. Always.
  
• When in doubt, ask.
  
• Don't be too hard on yourself. If it looks good from a few feet away, it is good enough.
  
• It is good to have someone else around when you are working. Just in case things go horribly wrong.
  
• Be careful when using ladders, etc. Make sure you are steady. Doubly so when using power tools. NEVER stretch or reach when using power tools. And for the love of God, make sure you work piece is properly secured before applying any tool.
  
• Use your common sense and good luck!

a few key points:

• somebody fucked up, this shouldn't happen to a 3yr old roof
  
  
• how your gutters look? in some homes, clogged gutters can backfeed water into the edge of the roofline.
  
  
• in like 99% of cases, water comes in from above (some edge cases like concrete wicking it upward) - its simple but keep that in mind when you're looking for the source.
  
  
• amazon sells moisture meters that might help you trace the source, something like this or the pin prick type.

Stud Finder Sensor Wall Scanner - 4 in 1 Electronic Stud Sensor Beam Finders Wall Detector Center Finding with LCD Display for Wood AC Wire Metal Studs Joist Detection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F6RZM43/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bERzDb3GP0FKD

This one is rated pretty high.

EDIT: Ok, I’ll get a manual one or use a magnet! Seems like no one likes these electronic ones.

Nice! I found much cheaper ones too. Thanks for the tip!

Get a couple of carpet fans and bring those down with you, these will aid immensely in getting the place dried out. I'm sure they're hard to find in the Harvey-hit areas right now. Check local Craigslist, also rental places will often sell their old ones for $100 or so. One carpet fan can do the work of 20 regular house fans.

As you probably already know, carpet, wiring, drywall, insulation, cabinetry, baseboards that got wet, these gotta go. Studs and other framing members will generally be fine once they dry out, but you have to make sure they're good and dry. You can get a pretty cheap moisture meter on Amazon to help determine when the wood is dry.

Sturdy step stool ($40) - not the rickety tubular kitchen chair ones, I mean one where you can stand on the top. a Buy it for Life item, not inexpensive, but safe. https://www.amazon.com/Louisville-Ladder-AS3002-6966014-2-Foot/dp/B00182TWL2

Leatherman multi tool (around $50), which i keep in the junk bowl because I can never find a screwdriver fast enough. Pricey new, less expensive when you buy it second hand or in a pawn shop. they don't really break, but you do have to clean and oil them once a year. https://www.amazon.com/LEATHERMAN-Wingman-Multitool-Stainless-Steel/dp/B005DI0XM4/

Cordless drill (under $50), mine basically has the screw driver bit in it 90% of the time. the rest of the time I drill lots of pilot holes. pay attention to the battery... if you can get one with a battery that is shared by other tools in the line, then it is easily replaceable and if you buy another tool in that line you can swap batteries. I like to have 1 battery in the charger and one in the device. https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-Cordless-Driver-BDCDD12C/dp/B0111N8L7I/

Spirit, bubble or torpedo level. (under $10) the Hanging kit usually contains just the wires and hooks, but you need a small spirit level for hanging pictures and shelves evenly. doesn't matter the brand they all work the same https://www.amazon.com/WilFiks-Leveling-Resistant-Different-Visibility/dp/B07M62GJYP/

Small tool boxes vary in quality. I don't know if this is for you or someone else. But don't buy anything unless it's a NAME BRAND, cheap metal tools bend and can break with too much torque. Even the Stanley line that Walmart sells isn't fabulous, but it's better than a nameless brand. I don't like SETS of tools, but you need to start someplace, buy GOOD tools one at a time, I love finding $$$ tools at thrift stores. https://www.amazon.com/STANLEY-94-248-Piece-Homeowners-Tool/dp/B000UHMITE/(i bought a cheap socket set 4 years ago to replace my stolen ones and they already have rust)

Bucket organizer. (around $15) If you buy a SET of tools, take the plastic blow molded container and put it in the recycling. You will never bother putting the tools back in and when you get more tools they won't fit. Bucket Organizers are pockets that fit around a 5 gallon bucket. You shove your tools into the pockets and everything else in the middle. And keep it in the bottom of your closet and carry it to where you need the tools. https://www.amazon.com/Bucket-Boss-10030-Bucketeer-BTO/dp/B00GK4TOWK

Tack Hammer. (under $15) You won't need a big 22 oz hammer, but a smaller 16 oz one with a normal handled and then a Tack hammer, these have a narrow head and sometimes are magnetic and hold the nail in place. Tack hammers are easier to use for hanging things exactly where you want them. https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-54-304-5-Ounce-Magnetic-Hammer/dp/B00002X1XD

Stud finder.(under $20) uses a battery, and lets you know where the studs are behind drywall. BEST PURCHASE EVER. https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Stud-Finder-Wall-Detector/dp/B07VLDTVFQ/ any brand will work fine.

Digital Infared Thermometer (under $20) Non-contact Digital Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun - ALSO BEST PURCHASE EVER... works in the kitchen for food and oven temp, fridge temp, and for locating drafts and cold spots around doors and windows. https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-1080-Non-Contact-Thermometer/dp/B00DMI632G

Toilet Plunger - the sort with the extra bit on the end. https://www.amazon.com/Get-Bats-Out-Plunger-Bathroom/dp/B00ODD5MD0 you do NOT want to be waiting around for someone to unblock your toilet. It may be disgusting but scoop out some of what's in the toilet before you start plunging, it's less disgusting than having to mop it off the floor. You want the plunger that makes a seal around the bottom.

BUCKET. (under $10) mine is constantly in use, i keep it in the tub and toss wet things into it. I have gone through EVERY TYPE on offer...I was so sick of plastic buckets, that warped and stained, where the handles ripped out. But the BEST and cheapest one I have ever found is a flat back duraflex bucket for watering horses. Not kidding. Made of a hard polyethylene these things are designed to be flung around and stepped on by 2000 lb animals. https://www.amazon.com/LITTLE-GIANT-Flat-Back-Dura-Flex-Plastic/dp/B000HHLHPS/ these are cheap if you buy them in a feed store, but even with the shipping on Amazon it is WELL WORTH the money. You will need a bucket when you empty the back of the toilet tank to change the flushing flapper or gasket, and you will need it when you empty the commode itself, if you have to change out the wax seal underneath.

Blanket hangers. (6 for $27) yeah this is obscure, but when I moved I lost a LOT of storage space. These saved my sanity. I use them to hang up quilts and sleeping bags in the back of the closet OFF SEASON. I also use them to hang blankets, sheets curtains and stuff once they come out of the laundry aren't quite dry. I didn't even know there was such a thing before now I wouldn't give them up. https://www.amazon.com/Stock-Your-Home-Comforter-Organization/dp/B00EUG51JU

Flashlight. ($30-50) I've written about these before. Until I bought a GOOD one, I had no idea how bad the others were. Cheap flashlights are great to have scattered about in the cellar, or in the junk drawer. but if you really want TO SEE, get a great flashlight. I gifted myself one for christmas one year and I love it. It hangs by the door and if I am going to be out very late or the weather is bad, I shove it in my bag. It will also illuminate Well past the end of the porch and into the yard if I hear a noise. https://www.amazon.com/Pelican-Carded-SabreLite-Flashlight-Yellow/dp/B01CKAIYV4 any very good brand will do, but I found Maglites to be dangerously useless.

OK.. now I feel much better!

Really though.. you should get a Multi-Scanner and scan the ceiling for electrical.

It could be that some nimrod plastered over it.. totally illegal.. but there are a lot of stupid people in the world.

If they were freshly slabbed and not kiln dried they would need a year or two of air drying. You can ask the seller, or just get a moisture meter for like $15.

This is the one I use. Works really well.

www.amazon.com/Little-Wizard-II-Metal-Detector/dp/B00005NMUO

If you are in Canada, Lee Valley carries it.

Spam-bypassing link

Promo code: 9VFTBXDF

Before staining, you need to check the wood with a moisture meter. Everyone gives that old advice about waiting a month/90 days/two seasons/a year/etc., but that's from the days before cheap moisture meters were available. Wood needs to be at 12% moisture or dryer.

As for the black spots: scrub with a soft bristled brush and Barkeeper's Friend (or another product containing oxalic acid).

I'm learning so much! Thanks everyone.
Any devices that y'all recommend to get an accurate reading of Ph levels?
This from Amazon looks good, but some of the reviews make me hesitate to purchase.

TIL a bunch of people don't know what stud finders originally were. My dad had one that was simply a small bar magnet that flipped back and forth inside a plastic case. When you slid it across a stud, the magnet would flip to indicate where the stud was.

And a quick GIS...they still make them: http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-47-400-Magnetic-Stud-Finder/dp/B0000BYD3K

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JPB30U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

soil pH tester/moisture meter.

it may not be digital but it's better than those fucking strips haha

http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00RG8M72S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=OB6BOCT9I1SQ&coliid=I11LNRMF9R1NC4

Blasted. My computer clock is definitely fast. :|

The wizard I have would have, had I used it. But I didn't, as it came milled, not rough.

https://www.amazon.com/Little-Wizard-II-Metal-Detector/dp/B00005NMUO

Stanley Magnetic Stud finder

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Unless the OP has built the deck in a arid mostly dry area with little to no rain/snow all a moisture meter will do is tell the OP when the moisture has dropped below the percentage needed for sealing. Climate wise, a few things are needed to be present; low humidity, dry and warm conditions above 60F (during the daytime hours). In order to hit all three currently, due to the season(s) we're entering,
currently waiting is warranted.

As to the moisture content, depending on the wood used I'd use a higher percentage for moisture content to be below 15% for kiln dried lumber and less than 17% for pressure treated lumber.

If the OP wants to get a moisture meter, they can get one from Amazon for less than $30.

https://www.amazon.com/Wood-Moisture-Meter-Detector-Pin-Type/dp/B07Q5TFB74

I am not sure if this will work, I just looked on amazon for a soil ph tester it’s really cheap and it will give you an idea is you have to something or not.
You may want to get a good fertilizer either way if the land was covered in weeds before.

You don't have to buy a specialty tool. Any decent stud finder that detects metal will work fine. I splurged and got one that also detects live wires, but I bought it for exactly your purpose -- to scan wood before passing it through my DeWalt.

For $13, it's worth the joke tbh.

My girlfriend might roll her eyes at the pun.

I have tried tons of different stud finders and magnets. The magnets do work, but I found a stud finder that works from Amazon and is the best money I have ever spent in my new house and there is a coupon to save 10% right now on it:

Stud Finder Wall Scanner - 4 in 1 Electronic Stud Sensor Wall Detector Wood Beam Finders Center Finding with Battery and LCD Display for Wood AC Wire Metal Studs Detection (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HF92JMR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GrGSCbEEEP281

Depends on what type of plaster and lath you have (wire mesh is going to be your worst case). Normal wood lath and plaster, use a zircon to get you roughly in the area, and then a magnet to find the lath nails

here's the magnet i like"

https://www.amazon.com/Studpop%C2%AE-100480-SP-Studpop-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B00FRI5TMY

and heres the zircon:

https://www.amazon.com/Zircon-MultiScanner-i520-FFP-Finding-Detection/dp/B01J39MJEI

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F6RZM43/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the one I have

First off, good job for doing this yourself, that bravery is not in all people.

Second, your using a magnet not a stud finder. Magnets find nails not studs. Studs normally have nails, but they can definitely get weird I'm a hurry with renovations on non load bearing walls.

Buy a good stud finder first. Unless you like patching holes.

You use a stud finder.

Go to your local nursery and buy one of those cheap meters.

http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MGMP1-Active-2-Way-Moisture/dp/B002JPB30U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1342875030&sr=8-2&keywords=ph+moisture+meter

Something like this one. It's not a bad idea to know the ph of the soil too. The general rule of thumb is jamming your finger a few inches into the soil to feel if is moist or dry. If its dry you water. I would rather have a better indication than that so I bought one of these meters. Takes the guess work out of it.