Best screw-in hooks according to redditors

ordered.
door alarm

door security guard

hook and eye qty 2

probably more than you need but that means you will have what you need.

Find someone to help someday on reddit or IRL. today you tomorrow me.

Heavy Duty Pad Eye Plate Staple Ring Hook Loop U-Shaped Sail Shade Hardware - Wall Ceiling Hammock Hooks Hanger for Swing Suspension - Stainless Steel  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GHY2Z3V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-qGrDbYRCAZNB

These are rated for swings, two of these in the top of a doorway are rated well above your weight. Clip some carabiners on your ring straps and set up becomes almost instant.

And if you rent, when you move out all that will remain will be a few screw holes. I would recommend some heavier duty screws but that's because I over support everything, I have to hang very heavy equipment as a regular part of my job and I trust these.

Probably going to need a heavy duty "eye lag bolt", you will want it to be screwed into a joist not just drywall. https://www.amazon.com/Hard-Find-Fastener-014973239138-Piece-2/dp/B00OLRFZHQ

When hanging Christmas lights outdoors in patterns you know you will repeat (along rooflines, etc) don't bother with those plastic Christmas light clips. They are bullshit.

Use these (hooks)[https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CR8ZV1Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1473929787&sr=1-19&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&dpPl=1&dpID=41R2PLd56FL&ref=plSrch]

It's so easy to put lights up and down every year. A pack of those hooks is crazy cheap too.

OK. You need a few things, first:

Stud finder......

Electronic: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Zircon-StudSensor-HD55-Stud-Finder-65945/205143494

Or a magnetic on, that finds the screws in the ceiling: http://www.homedepot.com/p/C-H-Hanson-Magnetic-Stud-Finder-03040/202563186

Hooks.....

https://www.amazon.com/Zinc-Plated-Steel-Screw-3-Piece/dp/B01HS3IU2G?th=1

A cheap drill: https://www.harborfreight.com/18-volt-38-in-cordless-drilldriver-with-keyless-chuck-21-clutch-settings-62868.html

Some drill bits: http://www.homedepot.com/p/BLACK-DECKER-Work-Bench-Drill-Bit-Set-17-Piece-15097/204734904

Locate your rafters, and mark the location lightly with a pencil. Should be 12", 16", or 24" apart. You can attach this rack to a single rafter, or hang it from two of them. Now that you know where the rafters (studs) are, you can decide if you can live with the location.

If you can, great. Drill two holes (slightly smaller than the screw hooks) into the rafter for the two hooks that are attached to the pot rack.

Install the j-hooks, and secure your pot rack.

If you look up hooks for garage storage, there's lots of good options that are rated for heavier items (I'm sure provided you install correctly, such as screwing them into studs).

For example, these bike hooks. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0QJ1KN

Ceiling hooks to hang stuff (here are some links for Walmart and Amazon to show what I mean)

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ceiling-Hooks-3-Ct-3M-17008-ES/674471354?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1219&adid=22222222228087869445&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=203265805401&wl4=aud-566049426705:pla-330327263704&wl5=9010203&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=114221148&wl11=online&wl12=674471354&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAiAh5_uBRA5EiwASW3IauLn1ekM1blLoYLub09lNtrYedvykT8N9Wsm144MWgTX_HJW1GKZzxoCsJoQAvD_BwE

https://www.amazon.com/Hanging-Ceiling-Outdoor-Bathroom-Kitchen/dp/B07FD154JR/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?adgrpid=54790672503&gclid=CjwKCAiAh5_uBRA5EiwASW3IamxUrlc-08a4bVv1Oia2ryR4jDRQYfC6BMt9xm-kt47RMm5VQg8AERoCiwwQAvD_BwE&hvadid=274677833667&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9010203&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=5962404798731543154&hvtargid=kwd-314708600776&hydadcr=13569_10208818&keywords=hooks+for+ceiling&qid=1573444999&sr=8-3

you could get an automatic coop door:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TONTHRG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

We have a coop run that is highly secured, and a main coop that is also secured. We close the coop run manually, and the main coop house closes automatically. All it took was closing the girls in the main coop run then letting themselves get locked out overnight a few times for them to learn to get in the house. Now we have gone down after dark more than once and all the girls are in the house and the door closed.

you would need to secure the main run area better to use our approach though. Our run is enclosed on all sides (including bottom) with 1/2" hardware cloth. Right next to the main house door (where the girls tend to sit if they get locked out) is #8 mesh. All mesh is secured between pieces of cedar framing with screws running through the cedar and the mesh.

We use the slide type doors which I feel are more secure than other options. one I made myself with diamond plate aluminum (if you can get flat aluminum I recommend it) that slides between rails of flat bar aluminum that have a gap created by washers. You can also buy a very similar design if you want to:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018KIVUC0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


The biggest thing you need to do to secure your coop/run area is enclose the entire thing in hardware cloth. It needs to be the small 1/2" hardware cloth like here: https://www.amazon.com/Hardware-Galvanized-Chicken-Supports-Poultry/dp/B015PD9F52/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1499439834&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=hardware+cloth&psc=1.

When I say enclose, I mean fully enclose on all sides including top and bottom. The cloth must be screwed/anchored in place (not just stapled). If you use larger cloth then animals such as racoons can reach through and grab the chickens. You should include the house in the enclosure. If you do not secure the bottom then they will just dig under and in.

I've had animals try and fail to get into my coop. I came out one day to find blood all over one side of the coop where an animal had tried to scratch its way in and lost claws. I also have come out to find that animals had tried to dig under the coop only to find hardware cloth there as well. you MAY be able to get away with just putting a hardware cloth skirt a few feet out from the coop but I prefer to just have the floor be hardware cloth.

Finally, all latches that allow us to get into the coop are safety latches since racoons can figure out normal latches. we mostly use hook and eyes like these (I use stainless though): https://www.amazon.com/Zinc-Plated-Wire-Safety-4-Pack/dp/B01LYNKFIL/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499440049&sr=1-1&keywords=hook+and+eye+safety+latch

Though our main coop door does have this sort of latch (which we intend to add a padlock to if there are signs of animals getting in through it): https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-National-Hardware-CD1271-Sliding/dp/B009YNW3QS/ref=sr_1_12?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499440093&sr=1-12&keywords=gate+latch+lock

We just put one of these at the top of the exterior doors (out of reach of a child standing on a chair) after learning our lesson with my younger brother, who could be defeated by no child lock mechanism. He and poison control also taught us that Miracle-Gro is not dangerous to eat by the handful...

Very cool. You can put the correct size one of these into the wood on either side of the wheel, in the right spot, and it will keep you from having to tie and untie the rope every time. Or you could make your own with 2 screws and some hard wire.

For ring work freedom get a pair of ceiling mounts like These heavy duty
trapeze ones (700lb rated ea).

There's also the Rogue Ring Hanger adjustable option.

Both will need proper mounting. So study up on lag screws or consult a professional (safety first). I have the trapeze mounts myself and couldn't be happier with them.

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Hardware-S750-490-SAFETY-GATE/dp/B00004Z0OS

Old ceiling hook screw from a hanging plant(s) ... in the photo, you can still see the round other half, indented into the ceiling board.

https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Fasteners-122412-Driller-2-Pack/dp/B017061MXK/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1541627266&sr=1-1&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A3976364011

There is a $2 solution to the problem: A hook 'n eye latch. It's a $4 solution if you want to put one on each side of the door.

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Hardware-75-0490-Hook-Eyes/dp/B00004Z0OS/

You could use mini-bungi cords and two nails, one on the lid, and one on the hive body, or something little and un-noticeable, and easy to disconnect. Maybe one of those eye-hook things, like this: They are cheaper than this by far at Lowe's or home depot https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Hardware-S750-490-SAFETY-GATE/dp/B00004Z0OS

I can't find the post now but you put them up and paint them the same color as your trim. The q part keeps things from unhooking and you use a long pole to just hook and unhook the lights.


Edit:
here's an example

I will try and take one but basically every single thing hanging in my apartment is hung up by one of these hooks. I just screw them into the ceiling or wall and drape the vine over it. As simple as you could imagine! The skylight has a huge wooden opening (will try and get photo) so there are hooks lined around the edge of it.

Then I use anchors too because I don't bother looking for studs.

Thanks so much!

Unfortunately those birds are no longer in stock, but I got them at Create for Less and they still have lots of varieties in stock and they're all pretty cheap. AliExpress also has a lot of options.

In order to get the birds ready to hang I pushed back their little wire legs, drilled a hole in their back between the wings, and then inserted a screw eye hook. Once those were all done I cut identical lengths of very lightweight fishing line to hang them from. Instead of trying to tie a knot, I threaded on a crimp, put the end of the line through the screw hook, and then back up through the crimp. I used a crimping tool to seal the crimp and then they were good to go! Let me know if you have any other questions :)

maybe something like this? http://www.amazon.com/The-Hillman-Group-852304-Undershelf/dp/B00GI21DJG

bolted to the bottom of something? could keep them pretty compact, like a hanger/rod rack, but without the hassle of hangers?

I used these angle screw to mount some of my records to the wall

They're just these--ordered them from Amazon, super easy to use!

The Hillman Group 122415 White Driller Hook Ceiling Hanger, 1-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I0A99E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ro0MDb15XSQZ4

Here are some instructions to follow.

Joists don't take well to lateral twisting forces, so I would get some additional clear 2x6 to act as blocking between the joist you hang the swing from and the adjacent one(s).

Some of those joists have enough big enough knots in unhelpful places that I'd want to sister the one I'm hanging from with a second joist of clear timber. If you rip down a wider one, you can end up with a joist to hang from that has the 2 hooks level, because it tapers to 5-and-a-half inches at the gutter end and is notched to fit over the ledger at the house end. Swings that have one end hung from a higher point with longer chains swing funny, with an odd twisty motion. And just using a longer lag-eye at the higher end to make the eyes level is bad news for metal-fatigue problems.


I've seen plenty of porch swings hung successfully with the standard hardware-store National Swing Hangers, but I'm much more comfortable when the "weight capacity" is 5X or more greater than the expected weight.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Hardware-S750-490-SAFETY-GATE/dp/B00004Z0OS

4 dollar solution, lol