(Part 2) Best silicone adhesives according to redditors
We found 197 Reddit comments discussing the best silicone adhesives. We ranked the 41 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
Yes. Unless you want to replace your connectors and sometimes even all the line due to the water intrusion you are 100% going to get. N connectors are not waterproof- no matter what the literature says. We just replaced a bunch that were resulting in high vswr on a site. Times Microwave Professional Weatherproof Self-Bonding Silicone Sealing Tape for Coax Connectors / Antennas (1.5" x 15') https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K4PZ9NO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eb3RBbD7ZCE91
I drilled a hole in the roof and ran them through there. Didn't consider for very long if I could feed them through the door or not. DIidn't immediately look like it, so through the roof it was!
I haven't anchored the batteries yet. This is a little bit halfway done honestly. I did the solar and the vent at the same time, and that took all day, so the mess of wires isn't permanent it was just a quick "Let's see that everything works mess" haha. I need to build the bed frame, for that what I'm gonna do is start at the rear of the wheel well and go forward, and then put a couple of boards up vertically so that the very back will be a space for our bikes, and probably have a board going horizontally over my tools and the battery shit.
The tan box is actually silver but appeared tan in the picture for some reason. It's a 1000W inverter with 2000w peak load. It's just a china brand since I'm broke.
As for price I'll add most of the stuff up here, but I might forget some small stuff I got from home depot or such.
Column A | Column B
---------|----------
Sikaflex | $13
Inverter | $160
Charge Controller | $20
Wires | $22
VHB Tape | $30
100W Solar | $170
2 Batteries | $200 + $18ea core
total | $651
I didn't really have any tools so I spent like $200 at homedepot/lowes on shit too. Including some wire, wire cutters, jig saw, zip ties, caulk gun, etc.
I wouldn't rely on that tape for long. The correct installation would use butyl tape between the fan and the van, covered with lap sealant. Even the lap sealant will need attention every 5 years or so.
https://www.amazon.com/Butyl-Window-Flange-Camper-Sealant/dp/B0070O93HA
https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-551LSW1-White-Non-Sag-Sealant/dp/B003YJLIW8/ref=sr_1_7?crid=Z841JSP22XJJ&keywords=dicor+self+leveling+lap+sealant&qid=1570568299&sprefix=dicor%2Caps%2C234&sr=8-7
RV stores usually sell this for less $ than Amazon.
Yeah let me see if I can help. I started by loosening the tank bolt to be able to work underneath it. I placed a 2x4 or anything tbh underneath the top half of the tank to keep it prompted up (allows more play with the wires). From there I used e-z tape to wrap the wires together. Take your time with this and do it section by section. There will be some parts where it gets sloppy but you'll make due and have to work around the harnesses. I unplugged a few to organize/route the better and plugged them back in. This video from blockhead explains it much clearer and a visual aid. I highly highly recommend watching his videos and throw him some love.
Your pads likely lifted because you overheated them, I doubt hot glue will have that much holding power. Remember that the longer you're in contact with the joint with your iron, the more heat you're dumping into it. Higher heat for less time will actually reduce your chances of overheating things, but when I say "higher heat," I mean in the neighborhood of 320°C, which is lower than your low heat of 330. Make sure your iron tip is clean and properly tinned, the oxide layer that forms inhibits heat transfer. A dab of solder on the iron tip will help speed things along as well, but that solder is not for the joint. Heat the components and touch the solder to them so that it melts and wicks into the joint, a process which usually takes one or two seconds at the most. Apply flux liberally if you don't have rosin-core solder, or even if you do and you just want more flux, it will speed the process up and faster is better.
And to answer your original question, even silicone wire can break at the joint if it's allowed to move around enough, so consider taping or zip tying the wires to the frame. Be careful not to cut off any strands when stripping the wire (be wary of any automatic wire stripping tool for this reason) and try not to have too much insulated wire hanging off the joint. If you want to reinforce the joint, you might want to try an electronics-grade silicone to cover it, but that stuff is meant to be permanent, and doesn't come back off in a hurry once it's cured.
Get a 'Crystal Clear' or 'Water Clear' labeled product. The caulks labeled only as 'Clear', as you've already found out, will never dry fully transparent.
https://www.amazon.com/C-R-LAURENCE-Water-Silicone-Sealant/dp/B006JFM7HY
I use this between my fire box and my smoker body.
Hi-Temp RED RTV High Temperature Silicone Sealant FDA Rated Food Contact Safe BBQ Smoker HVAC Gasket 10.2 OZ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYXBV29/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bOJjDb45VFHFE
Its rated to 600 degrees
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ASD2K/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000CBIH9/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EZB2MDI/ (black version, but also comes in a clear version)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BBX3U/
There’s probably more, just search google for more options!
I used 3M 1300 Neoprene High Performance Rubber & Gasket Adhesive, which is recommended for among other things adhering rubber to metal. It's one of those glues with the especially scary warnings. It has adhered great, but I'm afraid to look inside now to see if any leaked in...
I have used high temperature, food safe silicone sealer with good results. The brand linked to below is not what I use but is an example.
https://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Hearth-Sealant-Silicone-Adhesive/dp/B07CJQHX73/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1542131776&sr=8-8&keywords=silicone+food+safe+sealer
If you are handy and willing to spend the time you can try making Sugru which has some advantages.
https://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-Your-Own-Sugru-Substitute/
Good Luck
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While it doesn't have the word steel in it, Molykote may be what you are looking for.
Hey any thing that says, “food grade non-toxic silicon” will be safe to use.
https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Sealant-Adhesive-Original-Version/dp/B01F9HCCFE/ref=asc_df_B01F9HCCFE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198068685752&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6504012866981888787&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-349796768365&psc=1
This will probably work, just look into any product you consider.
It’s also probably a good idea to steer away from anything with a short cure time.
UniBond Anti-Mould Sealant / White Silicone Sealant for Kitchen and Bathroom / 1 x 150ml Tube https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01G5281D4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_50PADbD1ZCHFF
I'm surprised you had a problem with Best. I had a screw break-off inside of one of my fins (I was removing the fins for travel). I called Best, told them my problem, and they shipped me a new fin for free. I bought the board brand-new but at that point it was 3 or 4 years old so not longer under warranty.
So the problem you're having is leaking valves? Why do you need to ship your kite somewhere? I've had the adhesive between the valve and the bladder fail (it happens, especially on older gear...my most-used kite is a 2010 17m Taboo) and I use this stuff to re-attach the valve to the bladder.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OY211PS/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1469314986&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=graphene
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009YTCAA6/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1469314986&sr=8-13&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=graphene
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L71LNS4/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1469314986&sr=8-14&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=graphene
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01HSHMFH8/ref=mp_s_a_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1469315215&sr=8-21&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=graphene&dpPl=1&dpID=51jSN7%2B8w7L&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UNFITIC/ref=mp_s_a_1_36?ie=UTF8&qid=1469315346&sr=8-36&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=graphene&dpPl=1&dpID=41FgDy2v2nL&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OYAM1O0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469314986&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=graphene&dpPl=1&dpID=51ELbbEAlAL&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JX0B5AC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1469314986&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=graphene&dpPl=1&dpID=411F%2BANptwL&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CN0KG9O/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1469314986&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=graphene&dpPl=1&dpID=41rPCuIfVHL&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00W4VR63W/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1469314986&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=graphene&dpPl=1&dpID=419KXBgq9lL&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MMMT08M/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1469314986&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=graphene&dpPl=1&dpID=41C5P6bC4jL&ref=plSrch
Etc.
Yep, it's a variety of that. It's quite common stuff. They come in both caulking gun style cartridges and tubes like this: https://www.amazon.com/Dow-Corning-Neutral-Sealant-Clear/dp/B00NKYK4OU/ (You can probably find it cheaper than this, this was just the first thing I found).
Not sure if you can clean the area of the leak but this might work -
FLEX SHOT Clear - As Seen On TV - 2 pack special + 2 extension tubes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IGHFOUA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LfTyxbZBW32EJ
> Sika 291
https://www.amazon.com/Sikaflex-Cartridge-Adhesive-Sealant-Quantity/dp/B007H2R9SK
This is it, yes?
You could try this https://www.amazon.com/White-Food-Grade-Silicone-Sealant/dp/B0070O0HHK
I had worn patches that did not make complete holes in my top. Just to stop the wear I put felt and stick black tape stuff on the inside of the top so the metal bars wouldn't rub any more.
I bought and just used this tonight on one spot to see how it does. Once it drys (12hrs) you can PM me if you're interested in seeing how it does.
StormSure