(Part 2) Best thermometers & weather instruments according to redditors

Raspberry Pi 3

Raspberry Pi Clear Case

32GB MicroSD Card

Netatmo Weather Station

Wind Gauge

Rain Gauge

Rain/Wind Gauge mounts

3 Way HDMI Switch

1FT HDMI Cable

Wifi Adapter

Everything is attached to the back of the television with some double sided sticky paper things i had lying around. Anything will probably work.

The USB wall outlet is one that delivers 3.1A at 5V that we bought from our local hardware store.

The server that the software runs on is a poweredge r710 with dual x5670s and 64GB of ram. Of course, this isnt all it does, but it is one of the many things i host on it. :)

If you'd like, i can post the scripts i wrote for it as well.

You're going to want to pick up something like this. You set a temperature and an acceptable threshold (i have mine varying by only one degree), and it will automatically turn the heat lamp off and on to keep it at a consistant temperature.

I also have a under-tank heat mat for my hot side, which is the main thing used to warm my snake. I absolutely recommend getting one to put under your tank. Corns like to burrow and will get more benefit to having one on the hot side. I just use the heat lamp to keep the ambient air in the tank at an acceptable level. You will want to get a separate controller for the heat mat.

Edit: I also have an Indoor/Outdoor Thermometer just chilling in the tank to get a more accurate reading inside. Your tank atmosphere is going to usually be a bit different than the atmosphere in your room. I have the "inside" number reading the ambient temp of the tank, the "outside" number reading the inside of the under-tank mat (controller probe goes between mat and glass on the outside, and this prob sticks to the glass on the inside under the substrate), and it also tells me the humidity in the tank.

You want to keep your numbers as consistant as possible. I like to shoot for 85 degrees on the hot side, 75 degrees on the cool side, and between 40%-60% humidty. I hope this information helps. Let me know if you have any questions.

Edit 2: GoHerping does a great care guide video on YouTube, which is where I got most of my setup and care info from. There is also a link to their discord on the YouTube page that is full of friendly people that can answer a lot of your questions.

Edit 3: You're going to be better off using a Ceramic Heat Emitter instead of a bulb. It just produces heat and no light, which will be better with the controller ( you don't want the light isn't constantly turning off and on). Corns don't need UVB either, and do fine with just natural lighting (assuming the light in the room still follows the normal day/night cycle).

Handheld anemometer

Measure the dimensions of the outlet to calculate the area.

Multiply the area times the velocity.

try one of these fancy science thingies - https://www.amazon.com/Taylor-Precision-Products-1732-Thermometer/dp/B01ALO50BS/ref=sr_1_9?crid=2KUKV0UKAIWZU&keywords=indoor+thermometer&qid=1564426613&s=gateway&sprefix=indoor+%2Caps%2C153&sr=8-9

Or Retro - https://www.amazon.com/Taylor-Precision-Products-Springfield-Thermometer/dp/B07H4X8CGW/ref=sr_1_11?crid=2KUKV0UKAIWZU&keywords=indoor+thermometer&qid=1564426679&s=gateway&sprefix=indoor+%2Caps%2C153&sr=8-11

They will tell you if it is hotter or if it 'feels" hotter :)

How about a weather station?

https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-Thermometer-Hygrometer-Cold-Resistant-Temperature/dp/B07L82PF1Z/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=travel+trailer+outdoor+weather+station&qid=1568320873&s=gateway&sr=8-4

You can, but what might be easier is to balance what you have.

Get a cheap anemometer and measure the flow from each vent. Then start closing down the high output ones until all vents have roughly the same flow. From that point you can close or open individual ones as needed to get the perfect set-up:

https://www.amazon.com/BTMETER-Anemometer-Thermometer-Temperature-Precision/dp/B07FPBP2WX

Starting at the top with the thermometers, I never did use the the one that came with the bbq, but I wanted a second one to fill the hole in the lid so I ordered two of the same, they seem to be pretty accurate when compared to my digital thermometers. Link to thermometers I ordered.

Moving left, I installed a gasket around the edges of the lid, I find this keeps the gasket clean from from meat drippings, sauces, etc. Over time the weight of the lid molds around the opening and creates a tight seal, no smoke or heat is lost through the lid.

Below shows a Weber Grommet that I use to run my temperature probes through. The gauge of metal on the OKJ is thicker than what it is on the Weber Smokey Mountain but with some elbow grease and olive oil it does make a snug fit.

Also in this picture you can see J-B Weld high temp silicone around the chimney.

Moving right to the picture of the grill grates, you can see below the grill grates a heat deflector baffle plate, at first I didn't care for this as I spent a summer learning how to use the BBQ without it. But after a bit of practice I learned how to use it and am really happy with it, seems to keep a nice even heat across the chamber.

Moving up to the last picture. I replaced the set bolts on the legs. I drilled through the legs and the stubs that are welded to the bottom of the chamber and installed bolts, I did this below too and have attached the bottom shelf with bolts through the legs. I found that moving the BBQ around seemed to stress and lossen the set bolts, doesn't help with cookin' but sturdies it up.

Also in this same picture I bought a bucket for the drippings.

Not pictured is a fire box basket. Keeps the coals and wood in place, if need be I can place a log in the chamber to warm it quickly before tossing in the basket.

A couple things I tried but didn't care for. The dryer vent elbow inside the chambrer to lower the chimney down to grate level, and a BBQ Guru bulk head in the firebox.

I had to break this into another comment due to per comment character limits.

The following previously belonged to the above comment, but was moved here due to the above mentioned limts.

> Something you can do now: Build a filament drybox. Seriously, some filaments such as certain Nylons can go bad in just a few hours, depending on ambient humidity levels. All filaments are susceptible to moisture absorption, and ideally should be kept in something like a Spannerhands holder, even while printing, but at worst you should store them in a big plastic tub with silica gel beads to keep them dry.

> If I had to give one last tip, don't stock up on too much filament yet! Seriously! I thought I would be printing mostly in PLA but now that I've had a few weeks to work with it, I've learned I prefer PETG more, and now I have so much extra PLA! I'm sure I'll find something to do with it, but for my final tip I would add "And get a good variety!". Services like MakerBox (referral) let you try a bunch of different filaments on the cheap. It's not a ton of each filament (about 50g), but I love the variety of materials and colors.

Original second level comment begins:

Final Tips: Bonus Round!

1. Extruder Indicators are pretty cool (and USEFUL). You can get the magnets super cheap (or amazon).
   
2. Learn how to do An Atomic Pull (AKA Cold Pull), and learn it well. Do this every time you switch filaments (See "Doing it the lazy way" at the bottom of the page). You'll help remove built up deposits each time, which will help ensure a long, jam free life for you nozzle. This also skips the bleeding necessary when switching filaments (on your next "Load" you'll get a few mm of old filament and then pretty much pure new filament after that, instead of the 100mm or so of transition). You can skip doing a proper Cold Pull if you're using a brand new printer anyway. Just do a lazy pull each time you switch filaments, and then a proper Cold Pull maybe every 100 print hours, or after using extremely difficult (wet or super exotic) filaments to help remove any residue that may cause future jams or other issues. This does require undoing and redoing the idler tension again, but once you've done it a few times you can do the whole pull and filament swap in under a minute (minus hotend heatup/cooldown time). White Nylon is great for proper Cold Pulls, partially because you can crank the temp up very high (which ensures any residual filament in the hot end should also melt), White PLA would be okay for example, but may not properly pull PETG or ABS from the nozzle. White is great thanks to the color, of course, which allows you to see any residue easier; However, any color may be used. If you only ever use PLA, then PLA would be just fine for a Cold Pull. Seriously though, start by doing Cold Pulls from Day 1 and you'll easily cut out 50% of your future issues.
   
3. The small metric fasteners used in the printer are cheap. They are used in a lot of designs found online, so you should stock up (alternate source). The primary fasteners used are M3 Socket Head Cap 0.5 pitch, mostly full thread. You can also get the nuts very cheap. Square, Nyloc, and Hex. I can get the exact lengths used in the Mk3 if anyone needs them, though I'm not sure the exact grade used, it only really effects corrosion resistance.
   
4. You can also Calibrate the Extruder steps/mm and extrusion multiplier. Many people will tell you only the later is necessary but I prefer to do both anyway. Theoretically it does make a difference, but practically you can just compensate for steps/mm with the extrusion multiplier, and for all intents and purposes the result is the same, so "many people" are totally right.
   
5. You can also Calibrate the PID. You probably won't have to do this for PLA out of the box, but may find you have some temperature swings with PETG or ABS temperatures. The Official Help Article also discusses this method and how to calibrate using the LCD if you prefer. I like to keep my Mk3 settings vanilla (I've never used an M500 directly, and avoid them when I can), so I like to get my PID values manually and set them in my start GCode instead, which also allows me to setup my slicer so each switching filaments automatically switches PID profiles. The bed can be calibrated as well, but again you probably won't need to do this unless you're experiencing temperature swings more than -/+ 5°. One or two degree dips/spikes is perfectly normal (though theoretically can be tuned out, requires proper enclosure for stable ambient temps, etc).
   
   There are tons of other accessories you can get ahead of time. None of these are necessary, but are small things you might end up using (or wanting to try :P), and should help get you started getting a wishlist together. Besides the ones mentioned in this comment (and the one that precedes it) already:
   
   

• Wire Snips beat the included pliers hands down. For $4 how are you not going to pick these up right now? The cutting edge on a pair of pliers sucks and it doesn't help that it's ****ing halfway down the length of the tool. I tried to get away with just using the included tools and simply gave up trying to use the included pliers to cut zip ties. If you have Prime, get a pair of these now. Get a pair even if you don't - they're worth the shipping cost too. Thank me later.
  
• 608 bearings (for prints such as TUSH),
  
• Loctite 222 (helps prevent screws from vibrating free, not necessary thanks to Nylocs used in Mk3),
  
• A humidity sensor (for filament dry box and checking ambient),
  
• An accurate scale (for calculating remaining filament),
  
• A small fan (enhanced print cooling when needed (not very necessary except for ultra extreme bridges), enhanced circulation in filament dry box),
  
• Small bags (for silica beads),
  
• PTFE tube and matching Bowden Couplers (for something like Spannerhands),
  
• Lubit-8 (for the LMU88 bearings),
  
• SuperLube (Silicone Grease w/ PTFE for Bondtech Extruder gear maintenance),
  
• Canola Oil (for lubricating/cleaning filament and seasoning the nozzle/hotend (not necessary with modern hotends)),
  
• Small Brass Brush (also for Bondtech Extruder gear maintenance),
  
• Nozzle Reams (for the extremely rare jam, because you're doing your Atomic Pulls, right?),
  
• Extra Nozzles (no need for the kit, just an example. Hardened nozzles (black) are a good idea for composites, last longer than Brass, regardless of filament used. Prusa Mk3 comes with 0.4mm nozzle preinstalled, but you can easily swap the nozzle),
  
• E3D Hotend Sock (helps lock in heat for (theoretically?) lower current usage and more stable temperatures, also helps keep plastic off the heat block in case of print failure),
  
• Magigoo (or other adhesion aids) (for certain exotic filaments, otherwise not necessary with Mk3),
  
• Tempered Glass or Borosilicate printbeds (for certain exotic filaments),
  
• And of course, Isopropyl Alcohol (70% or better, preferably 91% or better) and Acetone, just to name a few...
  
  Edit: Upon rereading my comment I realized I have a problem.. I own every product I just listed..
  
  ^^Except ^^for ^^the ^^nozzles ^^kit ^^so ^^it's ^^not ^^that ^^big ^^of ^^a ^^problem, ^^right?... ^^Right?!

I've been working on a similar version as to what you are building. You really ought to have your sensors in a shield where the sun is blocked. That clear enclosure will heat up in direct sunlight so the panel will charge.

I got one of these to put my sensors in, and the electronics are in a weather proof box with the solar panel:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00VSXENM4/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8

Regardless, great work. I was using an Arduino fio to do mine, but I'm working on using the esp instead because of lower power consumption.

You can always do barometric pressure inside, it doesn't have to be on an outdoor unit, it's the same inside and out according to all of my experimentation.

What are you using to view your data? Webpage, control system, some sort of IoT service?

Do a check to see if you are getting sufficient air movement. It is quick and easy:

https://www.amazon.com/Mseng-anemometer-instrument-thermistor-measurement/dp/B073TT2TXL

If I am right, you will find that the flow is less than many other rooms.

Alternative:Indoor/outdoor thermostat Then calculate humidity based in temp difference between wet and dry bulb. Link from here

If it didn't lock you could still lock it manually using the keyfob as you walk away. I'm not sure I'd trust this device to keep pets alive though. If I did I'd only be for times when I had no choice and I would hang a big thermometer on the rear view mirror so a passersby can see the internal temperature of car.

I'd also put up a note that explains everything with my cell number too. I'd even put on the note that if they are unable to reach me and the temperature is above 80F inside the car they have my permission to break the window.

Technology isn't perfect and losing your pets is not a great way to learn that lesson.

Sounds like it's working then. When I was getting my system stable and the OC worked out I ran something like one of these right in the res to give realtime feedback on what was happening with my water. Anyway, if you have a year under your belt, it is probably fine.

>get the ATIS and try to taxi around an airport

A tailwheel will probably take you into airports where the wind direction varies depending on where you are on the field. Hangers, trees, and surrounding terrain funnel the wind.

I found it helpful to walk around the airport before flying with https://smile.amazon.com/Freehawk-Wind-Speed-Meter-Gauge/dp/B07DB32TRP/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=wind+meter&qid=1554905011&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1 and see how the wind varied. Once I learned what to expect, I could anticipate stuff like the whooshing crosswind that only shows up in the middle of the field due to a large hanger and change in elevation.

Congrats!!!

I think you should get a storm glass. They're really cool and pretty. The only reason I don't have one is bc I have a wild dog and child lol itll get broken.

Luggage can be put into a heat box too. Something along these lines. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZOUCYDW/ref=asc_df_B00ZOUCYDW5084384/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B00ZOUCYDW&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167137474498&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2895652971877154294&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9021748&hvtargid=pla-314702871523

A dark trash bag tied around it and left outside for an hour should be fine this time of year for most north american hosts at least. weather permitting, obviously. Also inside a car on a hot sunny day. Just open it and put it in the backseat or something. It'll definitely get hot enough in there.

Ugh, i fucking hate bedbugs with a passion. youre top comment so you should add the bit about the infesting someone elses place if you don't mind.

Oh for sure, here's where I'm at (copy pasted from a comment I made a while back):

• Hortilux 600 watt HPS
  
• Galaxy Grow 400/600W Ballast, always on 600W, never turning on Turbo mode either
  
• Vivosun 6" Reflector Hood (can't find a link anywhere)
  
• 6" Can Fan Max-Fan
  
• 3 x 3 x 4.5 Secret Jardin Tent, can't find an accurate link since my model is discontinued
  
• Honeywell QuietSet Oscillating Fan HYF290B, for strengthening branches - running 24/7
  
• I'm using my 4" fan/ducting as an intake fan, directly in front of my AC unit's cold air flow
  
• Bluelab PENPH, I aim for 6.0 to 6.4, but I don't put too much effort into accuracy, sometimes not checking at all
  
• Fox Farm Ocean Forest soil, no other additions to the soil
  
• General Hydroponics nutrient line, along with Floralicious Plus in the mix
  
• Eve Room 2, purchased because it's compatible with Homekit
  
  
  I've had quite a few set ups in the past, and this one is my favorite by far. It's made in such a way, that I can close all the doors and it would be unnoticed. If it's dead silent you can hear the 6" fan running, but with the AC running you can't notice it at all. It's great!
  
  ​
  
  So my set up, is also a closet, that is slightly bigger than my tent. So in order to manage heat better I may take my tent out and put mylar on the closet walls. I like having the tent so I can have clones/saplings in the closet with light, and have my flowering ones stay in complete darkness. I'll try to take a photo for you too!
  
  ​
  
  I also, just ordered my 480W Quantum Board light, which arrives on May 29th! I know I could do more to better manage heat and not need a new light, but this seems like an opportunity to upgrade so I'll take it.

Amazon sells it too https://www.amazon.ca/AcuRite-606TX-Wireless-Temperature-Sensor/dp/B00V4R5EUO/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494204644&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=acu+rite+rne+606tx

Mark it solved.

It’s on the first page of results for ‘hygrometer’ - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LD3PBNK/