(Part 3) Best threading tools according to redditors

Drill and tap it, thread a bolt in, then pull it out. Slide hammer might be helpful.

If you can use a left-handed tap, you MIGHT even be able to get the lugnut loose in the process: turning left to tighten the left-handed bolt will also work to loosen the lugnut. Don't overdo it, because if you snap, strip, or break the left-handed bolt, you're now well and truly screwed.

Next time, use a 1/2 inch socket. Or better yet, a damaged bolt/nut remover socket (I own this set and it's saved my life.)

There are even larger ones made specifically for lug nuts

Or even bet

Sounds like you put the screw in on the wrong threads. If you are lucky it is just the screw damaged and you can replace that. If on the other hand you damaged the case then you are going to need the right sort of tap

The cheapest solution though would to leave off the troublesome screw and just have 3. The case is well made and so even 2 screws diagonally opposite would probably do.

Good luck.

Unfortunately I doubt hot glue will work much smaller than this. If 1.5mm is too large you probably need a different type of adhesive.

https://www.amazon.com/Assortment-Interchangeable-Spanner-Replacement-Diameter/dp/B07421F6J8/ref=pd_aw_fbt_469_img_3/138-6664811-5881146?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07421F6J8&pd_rd_r=32adda7d-5cf8-11e9-8fab-7392133f7554&pd_rd_w=RKnv4&pd_rd_wg=LZtQz&pf_rd_p=3ecc74bd-d08f-44bd-96f3-d0c2b89f563a&pf_rd_r=EX655WSH7GQYH6DFS378&psc=1&refRID=EX655WSH7GQYH6DFS378

It's a stripped Phillips head screw. Try a screw extractor like this one, but make sure you get one small enough for the head of the screw.

Tacklife Damaged Screw Extractor Set - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078RJXN7T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wmydBb4EECTCK

I like that Irwin kit. I use this set. They make it in metric too but the huot metal case is nice and it has the drill bits next to your tap. You could buy the sae and metric tap sets ($50 each) with an irwin die set and be in at about $150.

http://www.amazon.com/Coarse-Thread-Tap-Drill-drills/dp/B00L5H223U

What size is the bolt? Have you already given Irwin Bolt-Grip extractors a shot? They work 90+ percent of the time for me when there is room to properly hammer them onto the bolt. Only the ones 19mm (3/4") and smaller are easy to find in your parts store though. You can order larger from the Impact Performance Series, which I've personally yet to try.

From experience these work best early on before you further foul the head trying other methods.

A picture would've been useful in offering advise.

Yes, but unlikely the same thread pitch that is commonly used on AR's. His is probably tapered pipe thread stuff, where this will be standard straight cut threads. You're going to need to look for 5/8-24. If it says NPT, or I think anything with a "P" in the 3 letter designator, it's tapered and a no go (unless you want to build your own muzzle device and thread it to match!). Tools shouldn't be expensive if you're a good and steady hand at taping. If not, bore alignment tools will center you up.
Die
Die handle (you'll need to figure out which size is correct for the die diameter)
Use this guy's advice to get the threads cut as close to the shoulder as you can
Out of stock, but you get the idea

If you have the clearance, this could be a problem solver for a lot of 6-12mm fasteners. Impact tool safe as well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077Y6JRP9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Order an easy out for brass a left handed screw may work. Make sure to measure the hole diameter.

For a less precise approach you could try and find a left hand thread screw and that might pull it out.

https://www.amazon.ca/OEMTOOLS-24374-Spiral-Flute-Extractor/dp/B01EJ79WOY/ref=asc_df_B01EJ79WOY/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292948034357&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16055223203221652602&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000690&hvtargid=pla-570008451771&psc=1

Pour les vis foirées, il y a les queues de cochon. Tu peux chercher "extracteur de vis".

Le principe, c'est un pas de vis inversé (filetage à gauche) et une forme légèrement conique. L'outil entre dans la vis en tournant doucement, puis au bout d'un moment il ne peut plus rentrer (conique) alors c'est la vis qui se dévisse à la place.

...mais pour une micro-vis ça me parait chaud. J'ai déjà fait ça avec une vis de taille normale, en la perçant un peu pour que l'outil accroche mieux.

I'm a bit surprised by how empty I've come up with searching for in-stock stuff local to you. Looks like there's a Fastenal near you that could have a tap shipped (kind of expensive); Amazon's got an off-brand pair that is eligible for one-day shipping (for me, at least). You could get that and an inexpensive set -- for the tool handle.

Wherever you ultimately get a tap and die, remember to pace yourself: drizzle [cutting] oil or penetrating oil, chase a little into the resistance; back off, chase a little; back off, wipe/blow out the shavings; rinse and repeat until the chasing is smooth.

Hori, nor any other manufacturer would really help. Anytime we mod anything we're voiding the warranty. And especially with a metal part inside plastic that's not something they'll want to mess with.

Looks like this kit has a 2mm extractor.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077RTHLBB/

I only needed to use bolt extractors once. It was the coil pack bolt on an SR20 valve cover. It was probably a much easier extraction than what you're dealing with. I used an Easy Out kit.

For your situation, I'd try something like this.

Check YouTube for tutorials. Start small. Use a center punch. Use penetrating fluid.

I bought these standoffs for a test bench I was working on at one point and they worked fine. Even comes with screws

Also got a tap and die to make new holes cause I was making it work with a laptop board (lasted a while until I fried it)

This type of extractor has never let me down, the key is making sure that your hole is centered & use some penetrating oil or a little heat if needed.
Neiko 04204A Hex Head Multi-Spline Screw and Bolt Extractor 25-Piece Set | 1/8" to 7/8" by 1/32" Increment https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KN9YVWA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ypjqDb20A162M

straight fluted easy out.. a set of tap sockets.. tap sockets are specials for use with threading taps.. there is a chance one will fit the straight fluted easy out..

https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-53645-Straight-Extractors/dp/B001MXRPXY

https://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-9030-Extractor-5-Piece/dp/B00IYTFSM4?ref_=ast_bbp_dp

https://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-21872-Straight-Extractor/dp/B000CEMSHM?ref_=ast_bbp_dp

tap sockets... https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-70500-Tap-Socket-Set/dp/B0002SRFOE/

so you can get a socket on it way down the spark plug hole..

chances are somebody cross threaded the spark plug and just cranked it in till it almost broke.. or you exerted enough force when it seized taking it out.. that you snapped the spark plug in half.

Use the heat gun as suggested, and either this or this from your local big box hardware store.

This is the Powertec Workbench Half Rack. It is listed for sale at $599: https://www.net2fitness.com/powertec-workbench-half-rack.html

You're getting a 67% discount. I would check the condition of it before handing over any cash. According to the site I linked the weight capacity is 1,000lb and 400lb for the pullup bar.

Good luck!

Edit: The image of what I linked to has additional accessories attached. The pic notes that these accessories are not included, just the rack.

Here is an Amazon page if you'd like to see reviews: https://www.amazon.com/Powertec-Fitness-Workbench-Half-Rack/dp/B00S4LKN04

I bought this set from Amazon and have been pretty happy with it - does all the sizes I've needed and seems pretty well built. As far as I can tell these crimp tools are for the most part all about the same, the most important part is getting the right size.

Drill it out.

Broken Bolt and Damaged Screw Extractor 6 Piece Kit by Rekukos https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074GWWDF1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CAuQAbWS4JK08