(Part 3) Top products from r/Multicopter

True. I meant the whole fraud but as a general statement, not directed towards you, or what you have mentioned.

A lot of these companies aren't bad to deal with if you're honest. And have good luck.

Didn't actually know they were glass reinforced, which makes total sense that they are. My limit to experience with drones is some little cheapies. I'd really like to get into it, just seems expensive (yet I've spent around $200 in Wera screwdrivers this year).

EDIT: Also, I highly recommend these little buggers for soft, fine wire. They will instantaneously deform on use of anything heavy, but it's an inexpensive mistake. Good, consistent build quality (on the whole 3 I've seen), good feel in the hand. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K

Those batteries are a little chunky for a 250. I have some and they are slightly bigger and heavier than my 2200mAh zippy compact but I like to fly 1500 zippy the best on mine. I got the 2206 motors on my h250cf 3k pro and just added 20a esc and 6040 props to it last night. It's a beast! I use that same charger and it's great. I say go with the 99$ kit h250cf pro kit.
I would also not recommended the flysky fs-t6 I was seeing brown outs with it and left negative review on Amazon for the product. I now use a taranis and it really is amazing! Here is my speed run this weekend. I need to tilt my fpv camera so I can go faster and see where I'm going. This isn't all she has by any means. This was warm up before I went tree cruising
RCX H250CF 3K Pro 3/1/15: http://youtu.be/p6pV1zKdQTw

>Thanks for the response! Which 1300mah batteries did you purchase?

>I have a chunk of amazon credit that I'd like to use to get the rest of my stuff (even if it comes at a slight premium), so I plan on getting my prop balancer, charger, etc from there if possible.

>This is the charger

>And I'm considering a few of these batteries

-a good workbench with clamps and a lot of surface area

-a soldering STATION. I have this. also buy LEAD solder, and those little things of cleaner/tinner are super useful.

-fume extractor (optional, but very easy to build with a fan and some ducting. Worth it.)

-pliers, wire cutters, crimpers, and strippers,

-lots of extra wire

-heat shrink tubing and something to heat it with.

-lots of extra screws/zip ties/fasteners

-somewhere to put screws. A flat tray works nicely, but magnetic ones are the best.

-a multimeter or oscilloscope. I use this.

-prop balancer. Very necessary, especially if doing video or using cheap props. (They can explode if not balanced.)

-lots of lamps and light sources.

-a pair of Helping Hands for soldering.

-hex wrenches/screwdrivers

-good hacksaw/hobby saw/Xacto knife.

-calipers/rulers

-drill/dremel

This is the FlySky one on Amazon for only 4 bucks more with free shipping.

I personally don't have very large hands and really enjoy mine. I have both the FS-i6 (which is the same as the tgy-i6) and the 9x and I always want to fly with the i6.

It has a solid build quality and can use PPM (only one cable from the rx to fc for less clutter) if you buy this Rx to use with it.

I personally think that the i6 is a really great radio. That being said however, it seems like everyone else likes the 9x, so you may just want to get that.

If you do happen to get the i6 and have some questions I would totally be willing to help out if I can! Cheers.

I think there's only one FPV kit specifically for the X5, but it's a drop-in replacement for the stock camera, which is nice. It's heavier, and the quad is a bit of a pig with it mounted, but it still flies pretty well; you just can't fly as fast, and definitely can't come in as hot when you land. Also note that it didn't really say the exact tx power, but it's almost certainly over 25 mW, so expect to get your ham ticket if you want to be law-abiding and/or want to join the cool kids over at /r/amateurradio.

This is what I bought, though you might find it a little cheaper elsewhere.

Thanks for your interest!

• The controller doesn't seem to have any outputs. You may be getting the H107C confused with the H107D (the FPV version). This version just has a small recording camera that has a button on it.
  
  
• Sure!
  
  
• The quadcopter was $60, the FPV pod was $100, and the Picnic quads frame (I think it was the Platform X^3/100/8.5mm) was $10.
  
  
• It still flies great! I weighed everything but the electronics from the stock X4, (15 grams) and then weighed the new frame and FPV pod (11 grams!). With a new bit of wire spliced in, the battery tray, and some tape, it weighs about the same. Woohoo!
  
  I'm hoping to sometime get another pair of goggles and a Blade QX FPV (I already have the normal Nano QX and I love it).

You can satisfy all your sticky tape and battery pad needs for life if you get a 5M roll of monkey grip tape, which is on sale atm over at banggood.

Considering how many chinese screws I've already stripped by applying what I feel is reasonable torque, I suggest you get some spare screws.

Most frequently you're going to use M3 screws, between sizes M3x5 and M3x16, so maybe get a couple of those. If you're planning to fly 3'' and smaller, the same margins apply for M2 screws. Throw in some M5 nyloc nuts to secure your props.

Don't overdo it on the soldering tools unless you can afford to spend a lot. The iron is less important than many on here might make you think, . As long as you know what you're doing and using the right tip for the task at hand, you'll be good with a cheap one. So I suggest you watch some videos on youtube and practice.

u/Errat1k already mentioned all the hex drivers you will need.

You'll want to have a pair of wire clippers like these and treat them well. Don't cut anything except wires and zip ties, you'll be good for a long time.

Heatshrink is your friend as well, get some.

Hey buddy! Okay I have a super easy solution, and it happens to be the most practical and money-conscious thing to do:

Buy yourself a toy-quality quad. Either a Hubsan or a Syma. They've got good range, good hover time, fully functional, and have a camera. You can crash both of them repeatedly, and you'll learn everything you need to. Then, it'll make your next decision super easy. You'll know all the pros and cons yourself.

You want one of these cheapo quads to get all the bad habits out of the way before investing and spending money

This took me 5 minutes to put together.

Commercial Version:
hobby creek version

Materials List:

• coolant hoses
  
  
• alligator clips
  
  
• A solid piece of wood
  
• some heatshrink
  
• some hotglue...
  
  

1. The threaded connector on the hoses is a 1/2"-20 thread. So grab a spade bit or 1/2" bit and drill as many holes as you want into your base.
   
   
2. Don't make the mistake I made and either use a dense hardwood for the weight, or offset the mounting holes further back so it doesn't tip forward.
   
   
3. Insert the coolant hoses and hot glue from the bottom then around the base and let that set
   
   
4. drill the tube openings to the diameter of the alligator clip arm (about 1/4") but make sure it's snug, smaller is better than bigger.
   
   
5. shoot some glue into the tube opening as well as the alligator clip
   
   
6. slide on a tiny piece of heatshrink onto the tube
   
   
7. push the alligator clip into the tube then heat the heatshrink around the connection (I used marine heatshrink which has a built in heat activated adhesive to help this connection)
   
   
8. grab some rubber dots or no slip feet and stick them on the bottom of your base board.
   
   The amazon link I linked to sells the hoses in packs of 6 so you can make one for yourself and a friend, or do what hobby creek did and fix 4 arms to the base (which in my opinion is a little overkill).
   
   It's not 100% rigid, but for a $9 build, it's "rigid enough".

I have an older Weller that I got used, this model: https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-Analog-Soldering-Station/dp/B000BRC2XU/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1520878668&sr=1-5&keywords=weller+soldering+iron
It's a little pricey for what it is buying new, but it's really quality. I've soldered many thousands of components large and small with it. Looks like Weller has some newer models that are about the same price and probably more feature-full/powerful.

I can recommend getting a brass sponge instead of the ones you wet, it's cleaner and less hassle. I also use a solder-sucker and solder-wick-braid regularly. I also use a pair of "helping hands" with a magnifying glass, a DIY fume-extractor (PC fan with some activated charcoal filter behind it), and a small vise for holding circuit boards and such. That's just about the entirety of the things I use for general electronics mucking-with.

Around $100 would be a good start. I bought this one. But there is it's non-digital brother. It holds temp very well, (dial it right in with the digital display) even when soldering large battery connectors. Changes temps very quickly. It does everything I use it for. This hobby, fixing TVs, stereos and other electronics. Not quite a production station but it would hold up well in small runs.

Do get an assortment of tips. There are many types, pin point, various width flat heads, etc. What you need will depend on what you are soldering.

Than just take care of the tips. Always clean and tin them when done.

There are many brands out there. Weller has been around for a long time. This station just works for me.

I have this Weller WES51 and its been just great for me. not sure what could be better on a more expensive setup. Maybe more accurate temps or faster warm up? This seems completely capable for what im doing with it though.

I just use a lighter for all my heat shrinking. Is a heat gun much better than a simple lighter?

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M/

Grab a good hakko or weller soldering station and you should be set for years! They make pretty damn good clones of these as well for much cheaper if you want to save a few bucks.

You are building a flying machine. In order to build a flying machine, you need to start with good tools.

1. Get some decent rosin-core solder. Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 0.80mm is good and has a low melting temperature, which makes it easier to work with.
   
2. Get a decent soldering iron. I recommend the Weller WES51 or Weller WESD51 and Weller ETO tips for small jobs like signal wires, and the Weller ETA tip (included with the iron) for XT60s and ESC wires. No, it isn't cheap, but yes, it will last you 20 years.
   
3. Get some tweezers. I like the Hakko CHP 00D-SA.
   
4. Get some wire strippers. I like the TEKTON 3794.
   
   Soldering is an important part of building a flying machine. You need to learn to solder:
   
   
5. Strip your wires to the length of the pad you're going to solder them to.
   
6. Your iron should be at 700°-750°, depending on the solder (63/37 has a lower melting point than 60/40).
   
7. Before doing anything with your iron, Clean the tip of the iron on a wet sponge, then tin the tip of the iron by applying a small amount of solder
   
8. Tin pads by applying a small amount of solder to the tip of the iron, applying the tip of the iron to the pad, then applying solder between the tip of the iron and the pad until the pad is completely covered in solder.
   
9. Tin wires by applying a small amount of solder to the tip of the iron, applying the tip of the iron to the base of the exposed wire, then adding solder as you move the tip of the iron to the tip of the exposed wire.
   
10. Tin the iron, grab the tinned wire with your tweezers, place it above the tinned pad, press the wire into the pad using the tip of the iron, hold for 2 seconds, remove the iron, hold for 2 seconds.
    
    You are building a flying machine, do it right.

This was the first kit I built. I liked it a lot, unfortunately I lost it (long story).

Any well-built 250 should easily carry a GoPro and FPV gear, especially running on 4S. I've tried a few different frames, the one I'm flying now is a ZMR clone from Amazon. I've crashed it pretty hard and it seems to be holding up well. I'd say it's a pretty good frame to start.

In terms of motors and ESCs (which you can always upgrade independently of everything else), the choice is either 1806 or 2204. I'd say buy any set of decent motors / ESCs that you can find cheap. The EMAX 2204 / 12A ESC combo in the kit linked above is a good start.

In terms of FC, the Naze32 is the most popular these days. The FPV camera of choice seems to be the PZ0420M (infrared filtered version). I've tried a few transmitters and my favorite so far is the Hawkeye 200mw because of the pigtail that makes it harder to damage in a crash.

I'd say what matters the most is not the kit but the learning process that comes from building / flying / crashing / fixing. Pick one and get started, once you've done it for a bit the choices become much easier.

Someone else posted this link for a set of locknuts with reverse threads.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O2F9E?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Definitely on my buy list, best of both worlds seems like.

I just burned out an ESC on a quad I just finished building :(. What's the best way to determine the cause?

It's a this ESC powered by this battery with this power distribution board. Thanks in advance!

Noted!

Bummer to hear I might have chosen wrong. I guess I'll just roll with the 600mw for now and maybe get that $12 one down the road? I don't expect to be flying with others.

Do you have any recommendations for antennas to use with the AKK FPV TS5828L 5.8G 600MW 40Ch Mini AV Transmitter that I've got? Strong preference for buying at Amazon with the free 2-day shipping.

People who bought that receiver also bought:

• Anbee® FPV 5.8Ghz Circular Polarized Clover Leaf Antenna High Gain Aerial Set w/RP-SMA Plug
  
  
• Fontic FPV 5.8Ghz Circular Polarized Clover Leaf Antenna High Gain Aerial Set w/RP-SMA Plug
  
  
• Crazepony 2pcs Aomway Antenna 5.8G 3DBi 4 Leaf Clover for FPV Multicopter TXRX (RP-SMA Male)
  
  Do they have the right type of adapter for what I'm working with?
  
  Also, I have these Crazepony Eachine EV800 FPV Goggles 5inch 800x480 5.8G 40CH Raceband Auto-Searching Build In 2000mAh Battery as goggles.
  
  Will the plugs work?
  
  I saw a bunch of other circular polarized antennas on Amazon last night, but can't find them now. Some were shorter with the mushroom top.

Thanks for the response! Which 1300mah batteries did you purchase?

I have a chunk of amazon credit that I'd like to use to get the rest of my stuff (even if it comes at a slight premium), so I plan on getting my prop balancer, charger, etc from there if possible.

This is the charger

And I'm considering a few of these batteries

I am thinking about getting the following Syma FPV kit:

http://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-Real-time-Transmission-Display-Quadcopter/dp/B013HQCK88/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1457369103&sr=8-3&keywords=syma+fpv

and fitting it on a standard, DJI 450 knockoff quadcopter that I built. Would this work? What battery would I need to power the camera on the quad? I have spare batteries from an old Hubsan X4, would those work?
I understand this is cheapo, but any feedback or input would be great! Anyone with experience with this kit, please chime in.

One thing I'm planning on doing is using 3.5mm bullet connectors at all the pads of that distribution board (like THIS). Probably do a very short run of wire off each pad into a connector. My thought was to make it easy to swap/add parts/wires in the future. This is certainly part of the build that I'm "in the air" about, but want to have the board just in case I decide to use it.

You will want to check to see how much voltage your flight controller requires (I believe they're mostly all 5v?). You won't be able to wire directly to the battery leads if it's 5v, but would have to use one of the BEC lines from an ESC, or get a UBEC to turn the 12v from the battery into a clean 5v.

I took the plunge and bought this one . Love it and it's worked for all of my RC, 3D printing, guitar, and automotive hobbies. Well worth the investment.

I use these cheap straps plus this stuff for grip. It has worked very well so far.

Try to build your micro in such a way that the straps are easy to replace. Also put some electric tape over any sharp edges on the carbon (or file the edges smooth if you aren't lazy) so the straps don't get cut as easily.

Hello, I was just about to order a couple days ago, then figured I should ask you all here on /r/Multicopter if you have any recommendations for changes. I can solder and have tools, is there anything that I am missing here for a complete setup? Oh I also already own a Spektrum DX6i with two Spektrum AR610 receivers.

item | link | price
-|-|-
AV transmitter/receiver | Boscam 32Ch 5.8G 600mw 5km Wireless AV Transmitter TS832 Receiver RC832 for FPV | $35.63
Charger | Genuine SKYRC iMAX B6 Mini Dual Power 6Amps 60Watts Profess​ional RC Balancing Battery Charger & Disc​harger (Version RCLITE) w/ Micro USB Port For RC Lipo Battery Cherge, Temperature Port | $36.58
Heat shrink | uxcell® 1 Meter 50mm Dia Ratio 2:1 Heat Shrinkable Shrinking Tube Black | $6.66
Flight Controller | AbuseMark Acro Naze32 Rev 6 Flight Controller W/ Straight / Bent Pin Headers, Breakout Cable, & Apex RC Products Nylon Standoffs | $39.99
Frame | YKS DIY Full Carbon Fiber Mini C250 Quadcopter Frame Kit for FPV Mini Quadcopter Part | $37.99
Motors | 4pcs EMAX RS2205 2300KV Brushless Motor 2CW 2CCW for QAV250 QAV300 FPV Racing Quadcopter | $78.79
ESC's | Crazepony 4pcs Littlebee 20A Mini ESC Oneshot125 Electronic Speed Controller 2-4S Brushless for FPV Multicopter Quadcopter | $39.99
Props | Hooshion® 16 pcs 8 pairs GemFan HD HQ 5030 5x3 CW CCW Propeller for Mini QAV250 Quadcopter (Black+Orange) | $12.59
Connectors | XT60 Drone Connectors 5 Pairs (5 Male and 5 Female) | $2.96
Battery | Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack | $16.70
AV Antenna | Anbee® FPV 5.8Ghz Circular Polarized Clover Leaf Antenna High Gain Aerial Set w/RP-SMA Plug | $10.98
Camera | SC2000 600TVL D-WDR DNR Board Camera SONY Super HAD CCD for FPV, 2.8mm Lens, IR Blocked Filter | $33.99
| total | $352.85

If you are in the US this Hobbywing UBEC sold in Amazon is pretty good. If you are somewhere else here's a link to the same one sold by Banggood.

This 5.8ghz FPV kit, if you are not scared of opening things up, get it and mod your x5c-1 with a built in FPV system...mine rocks

1. I haven't done that yet
   
2. Yes, reverse the pins, I used a tiny screwdriver to press down on the + pin, and push it back just a little bit. Slides out easy, then do the -, just push them in firmly and don't let them cross!
   
   
3. I have 2 sets of spare motors, til they burn up I likely won't upgrade

You can get a 5.8GHz FPV system for the Syma x5c.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013HQCK88?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01

I purchased this last month for mine. The screen is very bright, even outdoors. Camera is about the same quality as the 2.0MP/720p that comes with the x5c (slower exposure compensation, slightly sharper image).

Here's footage I took the other day [from the camera] *(Removed link since it's from my own YouTube channel. PM me if you want the link).

I highly recommend it for a beginner/trainer quad. Under $130 all in for the quad, FPV and extra batteries.

Thanks! The build took me about 2 months from the time I started ordering parts, to the point at which I was able to get it airborne.

I'd be happy to share some tips and things I learned along the way.

First, the dude at FPV Flightclub has been a tremendous help to me along the way. His videos, blog posts, and online store all made my build possible. I promise I'm not an FPV Flightclub shill.

So yeah, I read his post on Buying your first drone, then watched his videos on How to Build an FPV Quadcopter and How to build a QAV250 The correct way. Watching those vids gave me an idea of what I was getting into, and helped me figure out how I wanted to plan my build.

I decided I wanted to follow the QAV250 build as closely as possible, but with some less expensive parts; namely the frame. I got a knock-off ZMR250 frame for $40 instead of the much more expensive QAV250 frame.

Miscellaneous Parts

Because I wanted to hide the ESCs and not put them on the frame arms, I bought a 3D printed frame spacer to go between the two bottom plates of the frame kit. I also used a small power distribution board, which helped clean up the wiring.

Buying the frame spacer meant I needed a bunch of screws that didn't come with the frame kit, namely M3x18mm button heads. Speaking of screws, you'll also need to get some M3x5mm motor screws.

Tips

• Be patient. I had to re-do a lot of stuff, sometimes more than twice.
  
  
  
  
  

Are they 5mm shafts? I got some of these. A pack of 8 for 6 bucks is pretty nice.

Any idea if this one will work?

Qunqi 3.3V 5.5V FT232RL FTDI Usb to TTL Serial Adapter Module for Arduino Mini Port https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014Y1IMNM/

Reviews indicate people have used it successfully with minim osd so I'm leaning towards yes.

Micro T. Wow! I would have just said google it (but I research) and there is no straight-forward search (please prove me wrong). Here is an amazon for extension wires for such: http://www.amazon.com/Connector-Set-Wires-Micro-T-DT/dp/B000KFW29M

Edit: I'm really surprised this isn't more available knowledge as it's the most used connector for 1s micros.

I'm just gonna put this out there....for another $40 you can get a great soldering station

Not sure if portability is an issue for you. For what it's worth, I have a cordless soldering iron I never use. Not really making those field repairs I thought I might be

Ah, thank you for clarifying

It's this one: GoolRC FS-i6 AFHDS 2A 2.4GHz 6CH Radio System Transmitter for RC Helicopter Glider with FS-iA6 Receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VE3PZ3Y/ref=cm_sw_r_taa_WKGOybBQJ7P6M

I saw that there are a few sim adaptors but it's kind of daunting not knowing which ones are good or junk

I really love this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-937-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B000I30QBW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1449968334&sr=8-4&keywords=aoyue+soldering+station

same link, but shorter: https://amzn.com/B001E1Y5O6

:)

The Aoyue 937+ is great. Enough power for anything in a multicopter, not expensive, and accepts Hakko tips. Just get some chisel tips, small and large, and you're golden.

http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-937-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B000I30QBW/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1450081103&sr=1-1&keywords=aoyue+937

I think it might be cheaper at Fry's too.

THE ZON!

I don't know if people realize this but those arms are used to direct streams of water for a bunch of applications like CNC work.

Hi i just got an x4 also, it arrives friday! i got this one, is there any mods that i can do to this in the future, like FPV with that camera? you seem to know what youre doing!

Yeah I've got a good soldering iron, no issues there. So I'm looking at this receiver below, would this be what I need to connect the wizard to the Taranis QX7? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VM1XWB0/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=IR5SO4KJ1L4AW&colid=99GAMP1I5H2R

The soldering required to build a quad is not very difficult. If you are rusty you can always go to a local hobby shop and buy one of those kits that requires soldering and use it as practice.

You could also just get something like this. - http://www.amazon.com/Elenco-AmeriKit-Learn-Solder-Kit/dp/B0009Z3JJA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1418060308&sr=8-3&keywords=Radio+kit

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017BGDT12/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_a2dOwbDTVFNNZ

My second thought is if this body breaks i should be able to swap components to a new body, assuming they were in good order.

Available at amazon as well, 100 for a little over $6. I typically use 2, one over each side of the battery.

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Black-2-Inch-91140/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480944790&sr=8-3&keywords=velcro+strap

It's because it's actually flexible tubing for coolant: (forgive the mobile paste) Leadingstar GEN09015 Plastic Flexible Water Oil Coolant Pipe Hose, 6-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008O14864/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_6bHXKRlBQQs2B

Yep, that's the one (it's partially put together on my kitchen table right now). I'll tell what I bought and let you decide what to get (I overbought since I have nothing to start with). Keep in mind that I am completely new to the RC hobby and this is my first quadcopter build.

laptop screws for the motors

nylon spacer kit

Nylock nuts for the props

Velcro straps

XT60 connectors to make power lead

Wire to make power lead

zip ties

heat shrink

Like I said I overbought but I think this will work for me (for example my batteries have an XT60 connection).

Some other stuff I got because I'm a newb and want my quadcopter to light up the sky:

Helping Hands Magnifier -> this works very well

Learn to solder kit -> it helped me

Pretty lights

Eachine Racer 250 FPV Quadcopter Drone with HD Camera Eachine I6 2.4G 6CH Transmitter 7 Inch 32CH Monitor RTF Mode 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017BGDT12/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7EtnxbB0JVWWB

Would something like this be a good deal?

> I'm more then likely going to total it

With that attitude I would again go with a Hubsan/Syma to start. If you really want to dive in as cheap as possible there is tons of kits on Ebay/Amazon. I started with a kit I found on Ebay, now I am slowly upgrading everything. I now wish I picked all my parts instead, but if your itching to dive in then below is a list.

Prime Shipping - Kit, Battery, Remote, Charger. Still requires soldering iron, velcro, zip ties, heatshrink, double sided tape, allen keys, and a couple minor things.

Leadingstar GEN09015 Plastic Flexible Water Oil Coolant Pipe Hose, 6-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008O14864/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6.QNybC2AFKMP

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005EXO2JI/ will do the trick nicely but it's expensive.

Alternatively, this one for about 40% less if you're on a tighter budget. I've been using it with no problems since March on other types of projects.

Not saying the Hakko isn't worth it. I just didn't want to spend the money at the time. The Aoyue is still amazing compared to the $10 ones I've gone through. Heats up to 350 C in seconds, whereas I used to let my cheap ones warm up for about 5-10 minutes to get half that.

I think I found every thing I need BUT the monitor... I have a old monitor with AV Input and think it would work together. Could you verify for me that this would work? Transmitter and Receiver; http://www.amazon.com/Boscam-600mw-Wireless-Transmitter-Receiver/dp/B00GWFUTSK/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1458916841&sr=1-1&keywords=Boscam+32Ch+5.8G+600mw+5km+Wireless+AV+Transmitter+TS832+Receiver+RC832+for+FPV . Antennas; http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LGM2U0E/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3GY2Z49QY5CYG&coliid=I2Q0X05BO1EAUM Output cable from go pro; http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GYA8TLW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3GY2Z49QY5CYG&coliid=I2B4TIU2YASIRA .

This is a little over budget, but what would you guys say about this one? http://amzn.com/B017BGDT12

I was thinking of getting this...but I haven't fully decided yet.

https://www.amazon.com/Eachine-Quadcopter-Camera-Transmitter-Monitor/dp/B017BGDT12/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468373360&sr=8-2&keywords=racing+drones

This BEC (sorry, forgot to link) has an input range from 5-22v, so you can connect it to a 3s or 4s battery directly. It will always output the selected voltage (5v or 6v, depending on the jumper).

Also, whats Osborne?

i had the same issue. you can do what i did. i soldered 4 wires to another one of the available UARTs on my FC and then connected them to this adapter whenever i needed to connect to my PC. i had some single pin plugs that came with a receiver or my FC or something. i think i used the same UART as was in use by the USB so i didn't need to change everything.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O2F9E?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Would this help?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EXO2JI/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Would this be a good frame to start with? If not are there any other comparatively priced frames you would suggest?

here

Hubsan X4 (H107C)

this is a good cheap drone to lean flying. Get some extra 500mAh batteries with it. You get only 3-4 min on a stock battery and 4-5 min on a 500mAh.

I use the aoyue 937+. There's a couple of revisions now, ranging from $55-85

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=Aoyue%20937%2B

https://www.amazon.com/Team-Losi-Connector-Set-Wires/dp/B000KFW29M

Non-mobile version of that link:

http://www.amazon.com/Elenco-AmeriKit-Learn-Solder-Kit/dp/B0009Z3JJA

zip ties, - skip the heat shrink for the esc's around the arms. Just zip tie them.

LOTS of nylon spacers - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013G1QSNW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

solder braid

Hex drivers - https://www.amazon.com/PIXNOR-Hexagonal-Driver-Screwdrivers-Helicopter/dp/B00QLZGRHS/ref=sr_1_5?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1467916704&sr=1-5&keywords=hex+driver

sma pigtails - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DNMAEJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

rubbing alcohol(gets off flux)

90 degree single pin headers - https://www.amazon.com/2-54mm-40-Pin-Header-Connector-Length/dp/B00R1LQ3FC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467916531&sr=8-1&keywords=90+degree+single+pin+headers

mat - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P6KPKAE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

wire cutters - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Connector-Set-Wires-Micro-T-DT/dp/B000KFW29M

How about this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005EXO2JI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_Ib6MAb36BA6DX

Not exactly cheap but not garbage like some of the stuff out there.

Micro Minim OSD w/ KV Team MOD - I got mine from Amazon for about 10$, actually i had to get 2 after i messed up with a soldering iron on the first....

You will also need a FTDI Usb to TTL Serial Adapter Module to program it, this is the one i used: http://amzn.com/B014Y1IMNM

Also, can you tell if this FrSky receiver will work? It says it has RSSI...
Receiver

EDIT!: I think im confused, is a telemetry receiver needed seperately from a XM receiver? Can I just use the one linked above and skip the one you recommended?

Buy something like this and get over your fear of soldering. Basic soldering skills are pretty much a requirement for the next level in this hobby, and it's not too hard. A but if practice with a kit like that and you'll have no problem soldering connectors and PDBs.

I had a similar experience when using an Orange RX satellite receiver. I switched to FrSky and have never looked back. The difference was night and day, with orders of magnitude improvement. I've heard that Lemons are ever so slightly better than Oranges, but not by much. I don't know what it is specifically that they're doing wrong with the Orange RX stuff, but they shouldn't be selling them.

When life hands you Lemons, switch to FrSky.

(FYI, this is the receiver that I switched to using. You can also get a transmitter module to convert most transmitters to use the FrSky protocol.)

I don't have much to add just going to go in to a bit more detail. I usually try to keep at least 2 or more of each screw or nut my drones use, that includes the motors, camera mount, ANY screw.

Loctite/thread locker will help but some times repeated hard crashes loosen screws and you may not realize it. With that said you don't want to use anything above blue Loctite such as red or green, you want to be able to get the screws off!

I also bought a ton of micro JST connectors and a crimper to repair balance lead connectors. This wouldn't be needed if you are diligent about keeping your battery wires away from your props, I was not, but some times it is unavoidable.

And the random things I keep around are; velcro, VHB tape, shrink tubing of various sizes(you can get assortments from Amazon), spare VTX pig tails, various sizes of silicone wire (26awg for ESC signal wire, 18ga wire for power and ground to ESCs, 14awg for power leads), flush cutters, different tipped tweezers, spare antenna cable for the receiver, servo leads, circlip pliers.

All that comes to mind at the moment but I am sure I am missing stuff. Here are some links!

Flush Cutters

26awg Silicone Wire

14awg Silicone Wire

VHB Tape

Micro JST Crimper

Micro JST Connectors

Circlip Pliers

Servo Connectors-not silicone

Tweezers