(Part 3) Top products from r/Warhammer

Highly recommend at least one Kolinsky hair brush. Really helps early on to have at least one brush that cooperates. Kolinsky hair brushes snap back to a point well and allow a consistent flow of water thinned paint. Makes them ideal for base coating, shading with ink washes, details and highlighting. With proper care and cleaning highend Kolinsky brushes can last years.

You'll also want some cheap synthetic brushes. Use them for drybrushing, varnishing, or working with basing texures. The nature of these steps tends to wear out natural fiber brushes quickly, so you don't want to spend alot. Just grab a cheap set of "Gold Taklon" from your local wally world, craft store or similar. Gold Taklon isn't a brand name of brush, it's the type of synthetic fibers. You'll want a set with some small, flat brushes for dry-brushing.

Went a little crazy and bought my other half a collection of brushes from around the world in a variety of sizes for her birthday. https://i.imgur.com/1jmHpxX.jpg

• England - Windsor and Newton Cotman - Synthetic
  
• England - Windsor and Newton Series 7 - Kolinsky
  
• Germany - Da Vinci Series 10 - Kolinsky
  
• Ohio - ZEM - Kolinsky
  
• Japan - Connoisseur - Kolinsky
  
• France - Raphael - Kolinsky
  
• Spain - Escoda - Kolinsky
  
• New Jersey - Princeton - Synthetic
  
  We also have and have used quite a few:
  
  
• Army Painter - Synthetics and Natural non-Kolinsky Sable
  
• Lots of walmart and craft store cheap brushes
  
  What we've learned ... ANY good brand Kolinsky is night and day better for miniature painting with water thinned acrylics than synthetics. That's not to say a great and experienced painter can't do well with a bag full of 20 brushes for $2. But as relatively inexperienced painter a good brush helped both of up out tremendously.
  
  
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  Actually I'm just going to copy/paste a supply list I sent a friend a few weeks ago if you want more details/links on some useful amazon/ebay supplies.
  
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  TL;DR Brush options - Prices seem to fluctuate on brushes on amazon, alot. The nice Kolinsky brushes range from a bit above $10 each to a little under $30 each.
  
  
• Budget Kolinsky Set - Size 4, 2, 0, and 10/0 - $20-$25 -
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kolinsky-Pure-Sable-Acrylic-Nail-Brush-Detail-Set-AS-84-Sizes-10-0-0-2-4-/182798505865
  
• Quality English Traditional Kolinsky Round - Series 7 - Size 2 and Optionally Size 0 - $12-$20 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000YQG9ZK
  
• Quality German Slim Kolinsky Round - Size 2 and Optionally Size 1 - $15-$25 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PHBDFE/
  
• Quality German Travel Kolinsky Round - Size 2 and Optionally Size 1 - Around $25 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00409HA6O/
  
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  Brush Rinsing - Every Time you go back for paint, you rinse first, ensuring paint doesn't fully dry in the brush. Rinsing regularly goes a long way to letting your Kolinsky brushes last years. Choose the size rinsing container that best fits your work area. Not much reason for both.
  
  
• Large Tub with 3 sections and cleaning ridges. - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019IKYU8/
  
• Small Container with 2 sections and lid. - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009VJ6LWM/
  
• Alternatively, use 2 old mugs. One for rinsing the brush, one for fresh to thinning your paints.
  
  
  Brush Cleaning - Just takes a minute or two at the end of the painting session. Ensures no paint cures on the brush and misshapes the hairs.
  
  
• The Masters Brush Cleaner - https://www.amazon.com/Masters-Cleaner-Preserver-Ounces-Carded/dp/B0027AEANE/
  
  Palettes
  
  
• Wet Palette - Keeps paint color mixes fresh and consistent. Helps keep paint at a nice thin consistency so it doesn't blob on. - https://www.amazon.com/Sta-Wet-Palette-Keeps-Paints-Airtight/dp/B000C18GTE/
  
• Plastic Palette - For washes - https://www.amazon.com/Fun-Express-Paint-Plastic-Palettes/dp/B005DS6N9Q/ Just search Amazon for "Plastic Palette" or go into a craft store or Walmart. They have a large variety of these things for super cheap.
  
• Palette paper - If you aren't into the extra steps involved in maintaining a wet palette, you can use a pad of throw away palette paper. https://www.amazon.com/Citadel-Palette-Pad-Games-Workshop/dp/B00Q0GXEO2/
  
• Alternatively, use some thin cardboard stock... like a cut box of cereal.
  
  Brushes -
  You want/need some Pure Kolinsky Sable Hair brushes for most base coating, details and washes. They not only keep a sharper point than synthetics, they paint also flows out of the brush at a much more controlled rate. Doing things over again, I would have bought one or two quality Kolinsky brushes much, much sooner. It would have really saved a lot of much frustration.
  
  Brush Details....
  Disposable - Simple Nylon
  
  
• Plaid (Makers of Mod Podge) - Fine Detail Set - $3 for a set of 10 - https://www.walmart.com/ip/Plaid-10-Piece-Detail-Round-Brush-Set/22086220
  
• No need to worry about cleaning them. Eventually toss them or use them for basing grit/mud.
  
• This kit is worth it for the flat dry brushes alone as they can be really hard to clean.
  
• Good for things like finishing paint on gloss or matte varnishes that otherwise destroy brushes.
  
• Also nice for throw away loaners.
  
  Utility - Complex Mix of Synthetic Fibers intended to mimic Sable hair
  
  
• Winsor & Newton Cotman Quality Synthetics - Set - https://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Cotman-Handle-Stroke/dp/B000OVVJ6O/
  
• Nice little kit that includes a decent range of 3 synthetic round brushes for base coating and detail work. Along with a big drybrush.
  
• Reusable zipper case helps as well when starting out. and has room for a few more brushes.
  
• Best Synthetic I've used, but it's still no match for the real thing.
  
• Good for specialty paints that might damage natural brushes with too much use or durable loaners for friends.
  
  Hobby Grade - Natural Sable Hair (But not Kolinsky Sable)
  
  
• Army Painter Wargamer Series - Made in Europe
  
• Regiment - Best non-kolinsky base coating and ink washing brush I've found. - https://www.miniaturemarket.com/amybr7007.html
  
• Character - Detail work - https://www.miniaturemarket.com/amybr7006.html
  
• These are the white ones with triangular handle.
  
• Durable, useful, decent paint flow, but no where near as fine and strong a point as the Kolinsky hair.
  
• Might even be able to get them at a local gaming store.
  
  Kolinsky - Budget
  
  
• ZEM - Made in Campbell, Ohio - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kolinsky-Pure-Sable-Acrylic-Nail-Brush-Rounds-Series-3200/171320405673
  
• These are as cheap as decent Kolinsky brushes come. Not as sharp a point as the Winsor & Newton or Da Vinci below, but noticeably better than any synthetic I've tried.
  
• Sizes 4 or 3 for Base Coating and washing. For details a size 1 or 0.
  
• At these prices, you get a whole set of 3 or 4 for the cost one of the imports below.
  - Update: These have been my goto brushes for more than a couple weeks now. Leaving the higher end brushes for my better half, as she's the better painter. I still grab a W&N7 or Da Vinci if I'm doing an extremely tiny detail, like eyes, or attempts at freehand. Really loving the Size 3-1. Size 0... I'd rather use a small W&N7/DV if I have that much detail to hit.
  
• Unlike the W&N/Da Vinci though. It's showing some signs of wear after around 2 dozen models and at least as many fancy plastic bases. With the non-Kolinsky brushes, I would have gone through half a dozen brushes in the same workload. The W&N/DV aren't showing any wear with my other half's similar workload.
  
  Kolinsky - English Traditional
  
  
• Winsor & Newton Series 7 - Round - Made in England - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000YQG9ZK/
  
• These are used by so many youtube painters far better than myself.
  
• Get a Size 2 and/or 1. Because the point stays very sharp. It works for everything from base coating and detail work alike. Optionally, a size 0 or a "Miniature" Size 1, 2 or 3 for extreme details.
  
• According to many with more experience than us in miniature painting.... A single size 2 could be all you need for many years with good care.
  
  Kolinsky - German Travel
  
  
• da Vinci - Maestro Travel - Kolinsky Round (Series 1503) - Made in Germany - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00409HA6O/
  
• Travel style to protect your brushes while in storage or in your pocket headed to a friend's place or shop to paint.
  
• Doesn't hold as much paint as the W&N7 above. Another way to look at it is they run about a size smaller than the W&N. Just as sharp a point. Some say sharper.
  
• Get a Size 2 and/or Size 3. Optionally Size 1 for extreme details. (Remember, they run a little smaller than the W&N Series 7)
  

Warlord Games are actually run by a bunch of ex-GWs (including the much beloved Paul Sawyer); their models are much closer to true 28mm than GW, and thus while they are only a bit shorter they are much scrawnier (or 'realistically proportioned,' depending on who you ask). I've had my eye on the Brit Commandos set to combine with some FW lasguns into veterans or stormtroopers, and actually just ordered a pretty solid force to see what I can come up with.

If you're looking for some cheaper alternatives, I can recommend a couple. There's the Wargames Factory Stormtroopers, which are of a bit of a lesser quality than GW. They're fairly cheap and cheerful and with a bit of kitbashing, you can make a pretty neat, unique Krieger-style / Steel Legion army. Next up are the old Warzone: Mutant Chronicle plastics, which are super, super cheap (about 80 figs for 35ish dollars) and fit really well in 40k. On the other hand, the plastic doesn't convert too well. Both of these are dead on 40k scale, too, by the way. There's also Mantic's new Corporation, which aren't quite as cheap as the former options, but are probably the best sculpts and make a great Drop Trooper regiment. They also don't take to converting quite as well, but have what amounts to a complete army from the get-go. They're about the same height as Cadians but are a bit scrawnier, especially the arms. Oh! And the old Void plastics, which are out of print (though they can be picked up on Ebay pretty regularly for cheaper than Cadians), but were pretty good kit-bashing models, especially the Junkers (who are sort of space-Romans, I guess). They were also a bit shorter than GW guard. There's also the old AT-43 models, but unfortunately I don't think they're much cheaper anymore, since they already went through a fire-sale when the line was discontinued and now are 'rare'. Um, there's Defiance Games' USMC which was supposed to be out... like, 3 months ago. Or something. I asked for a refund because I was afraid they weren't ever going to come out. But when they do, I suppose they'd be pretty acceptable cheapish substitutes. And I think that's it (at least, for dedicated plastic sci-fi/modernish figs. Historical (like Napoleonic) kit-bashing is a whole new can of wyrms, and probably not much cheaper than going the official route in the end).

Edit: OH! And don't forget about using cheap 1/48 or 1/35 military tanks, which can be found for REALLY cheap (just a few examples), and can be kitbashed into amazing Guard tanks with a vehicle upgrade sprue and some heavy weapons for cheaper than a Leman Russ.

For airbrushes, I'm personally a fan of the Neo by Iwata, especially their gravity feed (cup) model. The brush is well built, fairly easy to take apart and clean, and has very few issues with most paints and other products you may put through it.

I picked mine up on sale for around $50, and if you have a Michael's or Hobby Lobby nearby, you may be able to pick it for less with one of their one-item coupons they release occasionally. It's also nice if you have a hobby store near by as you can drop in a pick up replacement needles or nibs if you accidentally drop it >.>; . Needles and nibs typically cost in the 10-15 dollar range for replacements, so not too terrible.

For compressors, a simple compressor with a tank will work wonderfully, so long as it has a proper pressure regulator and water trap. I have this compressor and it works well, after I got the correct airbrush hose to attach to the NEO.

There are a couple extra tools that can help with airbrushing as well, but most can be picked up at a later point. Something I would recommend that you get with the initial purchase is a spray booth. This allows you a place to spray into and capture many of the errant particles of paint from your airbrush. Combined with a proper respirator mask, it will ensure that you don't breath in any of the particulate from airbrushing, and hopefully don't have airbrush paints drying on items they weren't directly sprayed on. I would say of the two, the mask is the most important to have.

A quick-disconnect is useful for cleaning and swapping airbrushes, but isn't really necessary at first. A cleaning pot is also useful as it gives you a dedicated space to spray out leftover paint and cleaing fluid, and should stay fairly contained.

I would also look at purchasing a ultrasonic cleaner further on, as it is amazingly helpful for cleaning the airbrush when paint has leaked into the body, or spilled into places it shouldn't be.

Other's can probably offer advice as well, but that's what I currently use. Hope this helps!

I use a Grex TG3 with an Aspire Pro compressor. I hear good things about the Badger Krome Renegade if you want a lower priced airbrush but I love the pistol grip for long sessions and the compressor is the best i've ever used and I find it fairly priced for how awesome it is.

Its a small reservoir that vibrates at very high frequencies. Its frequently used to clean very small parts like jewelry, etc.

http://www.amazon.com/Professional-Ultrasonic-Jewelry-Eyeglass-Cleaning/dp/B001DKDAVW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412266694&sr=8-1&keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner

Put your simple green solution in there with your models, run cleaner, scrub them when its done, and then rinse your models. You should be in a pretty good spot after that.

Also, make sure you rinse the ultra sonic cleaner well after you're done with it. If you leave paint residue in it, it becomes less effective.

I agree. I know there are a number of people who seem to be unhappy with what the Black Library have been doing with the Horus Heresy fluff, but it seems to me like all of the novels they've been pumping out are based on the skeleton of the story described in old graphic novels, "Visions of Heresy." You can still buy the collected works on Amazon, known as "The Collected Visions," and I absolutely love them. Link: http://www.amazon.com/Horus-Heresy-Collected-Visions/dp/1844164241

What it feels like to me, having read both that and all the HH novels to date, is that they're using the HH series to, "flesh out," all the little details glossed over in Visions. I mean, this is a GALAXY-WIDE conflict, there is a lot of story to tell.

The only things I've really been displeased with are the books written about the Dark Angels.

A few years back, Gav Thorpe wrote a book called "Angels of Darkness," in which an Interrogater-Chaplain is torturing one of the Fallen, who claims to be Chapter Master Astelan (The same Astelan mentioned in a HH short story, can't remember which one). Astelan reveals to the chaplain that in actuality, the, "Fallen," were ready and willing to head to Terra, but the Lion wanted to wait and see who won before committing his forces to either side.

This shakes the chaplain to his very core, and in the end, I like to think he believed Astelan, because he was able to put the pieces together and discover the truth for himself: Luther was the loyalist, and the Lion was the traitor.

Alas, The Black Library took their fluff in a different direction. Its not necessarily bad, per say, but after reading Angels of Darkness, I expected so much more.

I recommend this. It's an artbook, but it has several short-stories that are pretty good and gives an over-arching view of the entire heresy. Well worth the price.

The best combination for removing paint is Purple Power + a Sonic Cleaner. The sonic cleaner is optional, but a suitably sized one can be had for around 30 dollars from Amazon, and will make your life a lot easier when it comes to getting paint out of the details.

Edit: Here is the link to the Sonic Cleaner I use: Sonic Cleaner

Just put the models in the sonic cleaner full of purple power, let them sit a few hours, run the sonic cleaner a few cycles, then take out and brush with a toothbrush.

Eisenhorn is probably the best possible place to start in 40k. You get every possible angle of 40k explored in this omnibus as well as a some fantastic characters. Add Ravenor for flavor.

After that, dive into the military side of things with Gaunt's Ghosts. This covers primarily the Imperium vs Chaos side of the conflict, but also the internal conflicts the Imperium suffers from.

Now that you're thoroughly acquainted with the human side, view the universe through the eyes of the super-human Space Marines in The Ultramarines Omnibus. This series shows the strengths (and weaknesses) of the Space Marines as well as introducing the terrifying Chaos Space Marines more thoroughly.

Cry for death to the False Emperor with Soul Hunter. Follow up with the sequels in Void Stalker and Blood Reaver to get a very interesting perspectives from the Renegades.

Finally, finish your introductory odyssey with The Horus Heresy. You'll be reading how the modern universe came to be.

This is a "fuck-ton" of reading and will keep you busy for 6 months to a year or more before you finish. These series are the best of the best in the novel side of things. There are huge amounts more in the Army Codexes ^^that ^^you ^^should ^^be ^^able ^^to ^^find ^^for ^^$0 ^^on ^^"sharing" ^^sites and other excellent novels. PM me anytime and I'll happily answer questions/suggestions.

Fifteen hours. Best IG novel by far.

If you want exaggerated stories of heroes overcoming impossible odds, sure, go ahead and buy stuff like Gaunt's Ghosts. You'll be basically reading about Space Marines.

If you want a brutal, ultra realistic novel about how shitty life is in a warzone as a grunt in the Imperial Guard, get Fifteen Hours. Best Black Library book by far.

http://www.amazon.com/Fifteen-Hours-Warhammer-40-000/dp/1844162311

Howdy there! Without knowing where you live-- presumably the UK, judging by the content of your post-- I can't direct you to a specific retailer or brand as it may not be available to you.

That being said, I picked up this cheapo pin vise off the interwebs and a pack of Magcraft Magnets (1.6mm, 200 count). Most drill bits you'd need can probably be found at your local hardware store or online for much cheaper. These 1.6mm magnets work the best in my opinion, since they fit inside Infantry torsos and in most vehicle attachment slots.

Now, with that being said, it really depends on what size of magnets you're using or what you are trying to magnetize. Magcraft is my go-to brand and they've got all sorts of weird sizes and shapes for all your magnet-ey needs. Plink me back if you've got more questions!

http://www.tcpglobal.com/ABD-TC-20T.html#.W_7P-mhKiUk

I got one of these as a hand me down from my buddy when i started. It ran for me for a good two years before it burnt itself out and he had it for 4 years before me. Great affordable starter compressor. I like having a tank so it does not have to run 100% of the time when your using it.

Sense then replaced it with the link below and its a wonderful compressor but frankly Im glad I got it on sale I dont see a large enough difference personally. Should something ever go wrong with it I will likely go back to the tcpglobal one above.

https://www.amazon.ca/Badger-Air-Brush-Co-TC910-Compressor/dp/B005UH7CVI/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1543426170&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=iwata+compressor

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Personally, if you're just starting out, I'd go with the Ultramarines Omnibus by Graham McNeill.

He's considered one of GW's top authors, and the whole trilogy is fantastic.

It scales up really well too, and will teach you a lot from a basic start.

It's also mega cheap on amazon!

Miniac is pretty good with these sorts of things, and I used his videos to figure out my first Airbrush.

[Video talking about various good quality airbrushes.] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-WxKl_AVTE)

Video on how to start with an Airbrush.

Honestly, that compressor is good, but the Master's airbrushes aren't great. A really good airbrush for starters is the Badger Patriot 105. It's got very few moving parts, lots of tutorials on how to use and clean it, and does the job for a decent price.

Badger Patriot 105

Master's Compressor with good reviews

For both, it's about 200$.

I'd also look into the Master's Painting Hood (Link).

I'm willing to answer any questions on what shit to buy, so feel free to ask.

You don't need airbrush cleaner, but it's cheap, lasts forever, and you'll want to have it around. You won't just use it to clean your airbrush, but anything you spill paint on, including yourself. It cuts through paint like nobodies business. So it's well worth keeping around.

I use GW paints and water them down with Airbrush Medium rather than water. Again, it's cheap and lasts freaking forever.

Thank you! I will try all those points that you've mentioned! As for the eyes, I wasn't brave enough to paint the black of the eye. Didn't want that guy to end up looking like a lizard.
As for the blu tak, do you mean something like this?

[Liquitex Professional Matte Varnish] (http://www.amazon.com/Liquitex-Professional-Matte-Varnish-8-oz/dp/B000KNPLTM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409160442&sr=8-1&keywords=matte+varnish) and yes I use this [airbush thinner] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GoKJUrISnTo) and put them into 2oz bottles with 50/50 thinner and Vallejo paint, it thins the paints for easy use with an airbrush and doubles my paint supply

Awesome, what about the chronicles with nagash, example: https://www.amazon.de/Rise-Nagash-Warhammer-Chronicles-Band/dp/1784966185/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1499782184&sr=8-4&keywords=warhammer+chronicles

This compressor

With one of these airbrushes [badger 105](Badger Air-Brush Co. 105 Patriot Fine Gravity Airbrush https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002W84GTO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WG48BbRAZVATA) or [badger krome](Badger Air-Brush Company RK-1 Krome Airbrush 2-in-1 Ultra Fine Airbrush with Additional Fine Tip, Spray Regulator and Needle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0078MEXX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EI48Bb3DAG4C5)

By "Imperial Guard Book" do you mean the omnibus? If not -
Fifteen Hours by Mitchel Scanlon - Read this book if you find yourself getting worn out on the ol' 40k literature flaw of "The protagonist of this book is an invulnerable powerhouse who can defeat anybody ever." Fifteen hours is a paperback kick in the pants about a lowly guardsman trying not to die on the front lines of a planet he's not even supposed to BE on. It can also be found in the Imperial Guard Omnibus.

I second the votes for Eisenhorn, it'll make your Ravenor experience even better (coming from somebody who read Ravenor then Eisenhorn, I wish I had done it the other way around).

Hey!

If you're using water, sometimes you gotta keep mixing it up so the pigment actually stays in the mixture. I recommend Lahmian medium, or Flow Aid for thinning down paints. Also try a wet palette!

To blend colours you want to glaze the highlights. You can do this by snagging a glazing medium, or just thin the shit out of your paint and go over the levels of highlight. Normally you'd want a mix of your darkest and lightest colour when doing this.

I try to paint the entire model, but don't bother with things that will never see the light of day. I paint for tabletop quality, so that's that.

If I'm disappointed I try again! That's why test models are important.

I like this one a lot.

Only thing I recommend is picking up some drop cloths to make clean-up easier; it's not nearly as bad as spray paint, but some particles will still cover the ground. I bought this to use with it, and it's greatly reduced dusting.

Thin your paints further. Also try Liquitex Professional Airbrush Effects Medium instead of water to thin paints. I got it because someone here posted a link that had this stuff as a solution on how to thin metallics and not end up with a separated paint. Tried it on normal non-metallic paints and it worked fantastically. You can use it with or in a wet-palette too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mPzSzCU9X5Q&feature=youtube_gdata_player


Its not a GW model he's working on but this will explain the basic concept you need to understand and the tools that will be involved.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0082EQXLG/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_.Vogtb0P1XC9B

That's basically the citadel pin vise without the markup. I use one similar for my pinning projects. As a side note if you have a knockoff xacto with the cross chuck it works just fine with some dremel bits. I'm lucky to have a dremel kit laying around to steal bits from.

Games Workshop, for the most part, but that'll change in a bit. The Head, arms and gun are from this set.
https://www.amazon.com/Warhammer-Mechanicus-Skitarii-Games-Workshop/dp/B00VE6WTPI


The chest is from this set.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JH131SG/ref=sxts_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511337839&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65


And the temporary legs are from this set

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0027HZLF8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1511337926&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=cadian+shock+troops&dpPl=1&dpID=51lj2TSi-aL&ref=plSrch


But I'm going to replace them with these legs
https://maxmini.eu/conversion-bits/legs/greatcoat-legs-bits


I got most of the pieces from different bits retail places, like http://www.bitzbox.co.uk

Many people use a pin vise. I use a drill with pin vise bits because I am a lazy man.

No it won't fuck it up as long as you don't fuck up and drill it wrong. It's pretty easy to do on plastic - bit tricky on pewter.

http://www.amazon.com/Excel-Pin-Vise/dp/B0002IXN7W

$12.95

https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Models-Stuart-Light-Tank/dp/B00VTE0VJQ/ref=pd_sim_21_10?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=R7YZQXZCNXYJGFQWPKEQ

https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Howitzer-Motor-Carriage-Figures/dp/B004C441B4/ref=pd_sim_21_16?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=R7YZQXZCNXYJGFQWPKEQ

https://www.amazon.com/Lindberg-scale-German-Armored-SD-KFZ/dp/B000XQ2K3G/ref=pd_sim_21_51?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=R7YZQXZCNXYJGFQWPKEQ

https://www.amazon.com/35-US-M41-Walker-Bulldog/dp/B00061HJ7U/ref=pd_sim_21_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=G5SYE2FY4CJHVJRY89VN

https://www.amazon.com/Liquitex-Professional-Flow-Effects-Medium/dp/B000KNPM46/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536077428&sr=8-1&keywords=liquitex+flow+improver

Since he's airbrushing, using protection is a good idea. When I'm spraypainting primer (even with normal cans), I'll wear a decent mask too.

And gloves are not just protection, they also prevent your hands from looking gross when you go to work the next day.

It's just this stuff, maybe it's called something else where you live but it's just something to hold the parts together in a way that can be easily removed so you can check any potential issues before you glue everything. You don't have to have it it's just more convenient than holding the parts together by hand.

Looking at the default loadout the kill teams have on GW's website as an example, I'd definitely leave the shield, the two handed hammer and the heavy flamer separate as they cover up large portions of the marines body and would make things hard to paint. The others I'd probably just paint fully assembled. It's not about how detailed they are, it's about whether or not there are parts to the model that cover up other parts and would make those parts difficult or impossible to paint.

I would use (and do) use Liquitex matte varnish. I put mine through an airbrush, but if you thin it with water, it can be applied to problem areas with a paint brush.

https://www.amazon.com/Liquitex-Professional-Matte-Varnish-8-oz/dp/B000KNPLTM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480536084&sr=8-1&keywords=liquitex+matte+varnish