Best abrasive wheels & discs according to redditors

Make sure you’re using a cut-off wheel. It’s about the thickness of a DVD disk. Then position the blade beneath the head of the bolt, and cut it off. The goal is to be able to pull the bolt out from the bottom. Top if you’re lucky.

Link to cut off wheel for angle grinder

4 1/2" Cut Off Wheels for Cutting All Ferrous Metals and Stainless Steel 10Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078GN6DR6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Lg6sDbPKP48TB

Hello,

Professional amateur rollerskier here:

Step 1. Pick up some rollerski specific carbide steel tips such as these


Step 2. Use them and keep those tips SHARP! So many people do not sharpen their tips before they go out to their detriment.

For sharpening I reccomend buying a dremel tool such as this and then using these tips

Step 3. Sharpen often! In my opinion, it is better to sharpen a little bit every time than a lot every once in a while.

I hope this has been helpful!

Well done. Now pick up a concrete grinding wheel, (the type that fits on a corded drill) and work it out nice and even.

example: https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW4961-Concrete-Masonry-Grinding/dp/B000R92HO6

I believe those nuts are crimped, and the threads are probably rusted and fused solid. You're in for a fight.

I got a Milwaukee 2767-20 M18 1/2-Inch Impact Wrench with Friction Ring specifically for dealing with problems like this. It is amazing and has saved tons of time. But an impact wrench might not work if the torx head is damaged enough.

Skip the torch. If you can't get an impact on it, your best bet is to cut the bolt off. You have three options: Cut the nut-side off and punch the bolt out through the bushing and axle mount. This won't work if the bolt has rusted solid to the steel insert in the bushing (it probably has). Option two is cut through the bushing directly next to the mount, and punch the bolt-head out. The last option is to cut the torx head flush with the mount and punch the bolt out along with the bushing.

For cutting, I recommend a saws-all with a carbide-tipped blade as the safest option. Be careful to not cut into the mount too much. If you don't have a saws-all, you could try to cowboy it with an angle grinder with cut-off wheel. Check clearance and geometry to make sure the wheel is actually big enough to cut through before the grinder shaft or body hits. If you cut the head, hit it with a flap disc on an angle grinder (most under-rated angle grinder tool IMO) to get it flush with the mount so you can punch it through. Hell, you could flap-disc off the entire head - would probably be safer than using a cutting wheel under there. 40 grit flap discs take material off amazingly fast.

Apologies for the long post. I've been where you are and like to help folks who are trying to help themselves!

something like this on a die grinder would be your best cheapest bet, a lot of the guys ive seen use a bigger version of that with an electric straight die grinder

and no not jsut clean of grease, you want shiny bright metal

If it's longer than a couple inches it's going to take forever and burn up quite a few bits using a Dremel. Diamond is the correct bit material. I'd use an angle grinder with a 4 inch grinding wheel like this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073CRH9GN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_Cz7OBbPQJ9MW7

I’d use a flapper sander wheel something like this

I’d use something like this.


2" x 1" x 1/4" Shank Mounted Flap Wheels, 80 Grit Aluminum Oxide - 5 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M295SA2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iiMnDbWJYS0R6

Wire brush works, but is kinda sketchy; the bristles fly off a lot. A cup grinding wheel is much way better & safer. A dust shroud is money well-spent, too.

Great work and great write up!

You can try these on your dremel to take out more material in the valleys but finishing with the files is always needed.

dry,

https://www.amazon.ca/Ocr-Concrete-Diamond-Grinding-Grinder/dp/B01CQQR3DW/ref=asc_df_B01CQQR3DW/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292953024923&hvpos=1o7&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8380050951177615494&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1001920&hvtargid=pla-493842304061&psc=1

I haven't used one on a regular corderite shelf. Only silca carbide. I suspect you'd need to be a lot more careful with corderite. That said, I use silica carbide for bisque firings too, they're more expensive but it's worth it.

Also if you want to expose aggregate you'll want a grinder wheel like this. Even at 50 grit the it will take you forever to expose aggregate. This one will uncover aggregate in about 5 seconds. It will attach to any 5/8-11 polisher. https://www.amazon.com/Ocr-Concrete-Diamond-Grinding-Grinder/dp/B01CQQR3DW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1479154313&sr=8-4&keywords=diamond+cup+wheel

You should just buy a fine 3m scotchbrite wheel and skip the sandpaper steps. It'll speed up your process to just a few minutes per club.

Then you can upgrade to a sandblasting cabinet and use a fine grit glass bead and get a professional looking finish quickly.

Once it's out of the flask it comes off pretty easy I polish with the 3m rubber publishing wheels like these There is a mild acid that is supposed to be good at breaking this stuff up but I haven't tried it yet https://www.amazon.com/BUYGOO-Abrasive-Bristle-Brushes-Mandrels/dp/B07G8WC2QF/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=3m+polishing+disc&qid=1573009011&sprefix=3m+polishing+di&sr=8-5

Is this what you’re talking about? https://www.amazon.com/GOXAWEE-Abrasive-Refinishing-Polishing-mandrels/dp/B075SV63VC

I use mine on steel all the time. Cut off wheel;http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-409-Cut-off-Wheels-thick/dp/B00004UDGX/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381031263&sr=8-1&keywords=dremel+cut+off+wheel

https://www.amazon.com/PFERD-67347-POLIFAN-CURVE-Zirconia/dp/B07GT6P5T1
Can’t say enough about these wheels. They make things so much easier and last longer.

You can try a flooring adhesive remover like this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Henry-Easy-Release-1-Gal-Adhesive-Remover-12250/202046244

Or go with a grinder and a diamond wheel for polishing concrete
Something like this: HUELE 4-Inch Concrete Turbo Diamond Grinding Cup Wheel for Angle Grinder 12 Segs Heavy Duty ,Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073CRH9GN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mvQOBb2YJ2XXX

I never really had luck with the adhesive remover but I know those diamond cup wheels are the quickest.

Like this, you mean? https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Diamond-Grinding-Sanding-Polishing/dp/B071SD8LTP/ref=pd_bxgy_3/138-6533951-9210162?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B071SD8LTP&pd_rd_r=1b7c5c59-5aeb-11e9-b29f-6f56b9d52ae1&pd_rd_w=xkQTZ&pd_rd_wg=bH7NV&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=XSRD1H4256C7AASSDCMV&psc=1&refRID=XSRD1H4256C7AASSDCMV Can it be cut down to a smaller size? 6in diameter is a bit unwieldy.

This is the one I currently have, that I'm looking to replace. I thought of purchasing the same thing, but I want to try these ones because I'm broke and it's a better price-point. 😂

Sure! I am no expert, but I like my results. Here is what I did.

1. I went to amazon and bought:
   
   • Mineral Spirits
     
   • Rust & Corrosion Protection Spray
     
   • Little Wire Brushes
     
   • Orbital Sandpaper Pads (assuming you have an orbital sander)
     
   • Steel wool
     
     
2. I lowered the saw blade.
   
   
3. I spread Mineral spirits with the steel wool in small circles with a bit of elbow grease.
   
   
4. I scrubbed for a moment with the wire brush where there were bad rust spots, but then I thought "This is going to take for ever!"
   
   
5. I sanded it with my orbital sander and my highest grade sand paper pad. This created a thin slurry of rust and mineral oil.
   
   
6. I went back to the wire brush to scrub the spots the sander couldn't reach.
   
   
7. I went in the house with my slurry-covered fingers in the air opening doors with my elbows and grabbed an undershirt from the laundry to wipe down the saw.
   
   
8. I wiped down the saw.
   
   
9. I did one more pass with mineral oil and steels wool.
   
   
10. I sprayed it with the protection spray.
    
    
11. I marveled at/ took pictures of my saw.
    
    
12. I scanned my garage for other small tools I could quickly sand and spray.
    
    The whole evolution took less than 20 minutes.

They're orange. https://www.amazon.com/Walter-15W506-Flexsteel-Flap-Disc/dp/B01MYGCBNX


This place also ships and is pretty cheap if you need anything abrasive.
http://www.lehighvalleyabrasives.com/abrasives/coated-abrasives-flap-discs

If you go the sanding route (which may not be the best way to go), you do NOT want to use diamond polishing pads. Those are for polishing, as in turning smooth concrete into mirror finish concrete. Not for something as aggressive as what you're looking to do.

You'd want a diamond grinding cup like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CQQR3DW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_I1eCCbNMJCFJW

With an angle grinder. It'll grind the concrete down to a finish that's smooth to the touch. It will go quick, less than an hour.

It will be MESSY. Grinding concrete creates a bunch of fine concrete dust that gets in your face, eyes, nose, etc. You'll want goggles and a face mask.

This is the angle grinder I have: Porter Cable PC60TAG

And these are the cutting disks I bought for it: DeWalt DW8061B5 Cutting Wheel

Will be cutting O1, D2, 1055 High Carbon, and, eventually, Gucci shit like CPM S35VN, all prior to heat treating.


Safe?

Are you using a cutting wheel or the grinding wheel? This is the tool, https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW8061B5-0-045-Inch-Stainless-Cutting/dp/B005B8LZ14/ It will do a much better job than a regular grinding wheel.

I would jb weld a plate, then bolt the safe to the floor with the plate against the wall. If they can take the safe home, nothing you do will stop them from getting it open, just like you are doing now.

>i have ammunition in my safe

Grinding/cutting generates heat and sparks. This worries me. I dont want you to make the front page after blowing up your safe. Please be careful.

Thoughts on a cup wheel? Might be even faster. I kinda want to do this to my lodges now. They’re definitely not as smooth as some of my antiques.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW4774-Double-Row-Diamond-Cup-Grinding-Wheel/dp/B003XXE0RA

I may have to be the guinea pig and give one of these a rip.

I was thinking more like this

Yeah, if you never do any DIY house projects, it's probably not the best first one. But, it was easier than I thought. I used an inexpensive concrete cup wheel (this one: https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW4961-Concrete-Masonry-Grinding/dp/B000R92HO6/) on edge, because I didn't want to pay for a fancy purpose-specific crack chasing attachment. Best tip: wet the concrete first. It minimizes dust, and it makes this cup wheel less aggressive and easier to control.

I'm currently working on filling a seam between the concrete garage bay of my shop, and the wood floor side of the shop, which is bordered by 2x4 lumber in the floor. So there's this 1/2"-1" gap, with concrete on one side of the floor, and 2x4 on the other. I'm thinking of just using the same technique: grind down a bit and then fill with 2-part epoxy. Sound reasonable? I'm tempted to use Bondo all-purpose putty, because it specifically says it's for wood and concrete, but I'm hesitant to use it on a surface that not only gets walked on, but has equipment rolled over it. What do you think?

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-409-Cut-off-Wheels-thick/dp/B00004UDGX/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1522925292&sr=8-16&keywords=dremel+accessories

An angle grinder and concrete grinding disc would lower the time substantially.