Found it!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LHR4GR8/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1518923255&sr=8-14&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=many+ice+cube+trays

You can still install the normal one to a 14-50, you just need a suitable cable.

I used this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TCZUCZC/

I haven't tried any of the "fixes" I've found, but a quick Google search brings up a lot of resources.

I have no clue if any of these work.

But there's this: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-DA82-01415A-Assembly-Water-Leakage/dp/B010RHJ1ZA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=%22DA82-01415A%22&qid=1558875754&s=gateway&sr=8-3#customerReviews

And this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rwSSMF6Sj70

And this http://www.appliancerepairlesson.com/2013/12/13/samsung-refrigerator-leaking-into-crisper-drawer/

You are going to have a really bad time with that iron. It’s just too cold and too big to do proper joints at this scale.

I know it sucks to hear someone tell you to spend more, but either get this guy for a bench unit:

hakko FX-888D

Or this guy as a LiPo powered portable/do it all:

TS100

Soldering is usually the make or break part of building FPV copters. If you enjoy it and can do it successfully, you will enjoy building FPV and do it successfully. If it’s a pain in the ass, and a constant struggle to get you joints down easily... then building FPV will be a pain in the ass also.

It’s a super valuable skill to have, but not a skill you can build with shitty tools. A shitty iron will make you a shitty solderer. A damn decent iron will at least give you the chance to become a damn decent solderer.

I’ve owned/used over 30 irons at home and work for the least several decades and those are the only two I’d recomend for FPV. Get the Hakko if you are interested in having a solid workbench where you can craft like a pro. Get the TS100 if you’re only going to solder with/for FPV and would attempt a repair in the field.

I own both, on for the bench and one for the bag.

I have another iron that costs 4x what that hakko does and I almost never touch it anymore. That hakko is unbeatable for the money by a huge margin.

OP, this is a common and easy repair.

You need part # W10712394

Here's how to do it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otUn8eoceBw

Buy it:
https://www.amazon.com/Kenmore-0W10712394-Whirlpool-W10712394-Adjuster/dp/B00SPYDSFC

I have the same Danby kegergator. You'll want to put a 33k ohm resistor in parallel with the temp sensor if you want to get your beer colder. Also consider placing a fan inside the cabinet to circulate cold air up the tap tower.

Your starting relay will go out in a few years, order one of these before it happens : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N3WFW5K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Once it's fixed, add a dishwasher pan below the dishwasher. Also add one of these

You are not allowed to have bird cages on dryer vents. It is a code thing. I highly recommend looking into a louvered cover for your dryer vent like this one. A properly functioning louver/damper/vent cap will keep birds out for the most part. However I will highly recommended you have your dryer vent cleaned annually if not biannually to keep an eye on that issue. You will be running into a gang full of more issues with a bird cover on it over time. PM me if you have any questions, I do this for a living.

Chest Freezer questions:

Minimum size for 2 converted pin locks plus c02 tank?

Do I need to find a freezer that specifies its variable temp can go as high as needed or does it need to be modified somehow.

I have my eyes on this chest freezer but I am weary buying online without seeing in person.



Recipe questions:

Such a thing as a reputable "fast sour" brew?

Save yourself headaches. Get one of these.

I just built myself a fementation chamber...I used this.

I put a collar around the top like people do for keezers to give it more height. I can fit 2 6 gallon carboys in it, one on the "floor" and one on the compressor "hump". I did have to build a little bench thingy to support the carboy on the hump.

and or one of these might help too. I use um for drain pans under pots

https://www.amazon.com/Eastman-70486-Dishwasher-24-5-20-5-Inch/dp/B00WQRKDNY/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L4I780W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482619003&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=Whirlpool+side+in+range+filler+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=21DIdoanhKL&ref=plSrch@

Try this. It doesn't mount to the range but this is what is meant to fill that gap on their more recent slide in ranges. Should work for what you are describing.

Here is a link on amazon for a 3/16 swivel nut. The beer line goes over the 3/16 "barb". The "flare" end will screw right onto the pin lock disconnects you have in your setup. Use worm clamps to secure your line to the barb fitting on the swivel nut and the barb on your beer shank that's attached to your tap. Read about keg line balancing to see how long your line needs to be to get a good pour. Hope this helps!

for $100 you can have unlimited ice.

No but rubber isolation pads or feet would probably work. amazon

It's hard to pin it down, but if you look long enough, you'll see a whole bunch of machines with the exact same features - the molded handles will all be very similar but slightly different, but they will all fit the same template - they will mount in the exact same way and features will all be in the same place.

For example:
RCA (but also igloo?):
https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Cubic-Foot-Chest-Freezer/dp/B00ZPN3YNM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=igloo+chest+freezer&qid=1573074716&s=appliances&sr=1-3

Kuppet ???:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YY1GCFX/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07YY1GCFX&pd_rd_w=Be0L4&pf_rd_p=45a72588-80f7-4414-9851-786f6c16d42b&pd_rd_wg=Qip8v&pf_rd_r=JJENA9GKCEQ49A2P84ND&pd_rd_r=fc1dbfa4-754c-4a1d-af2b-f0c875b1e07f&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyWUw4VjhIUDUxM0FTJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODA3Njk3MU9HTjhMUTg1RjgyViZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDU1NzgxMjNXU1cwOVpaRUJSOCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Northair ?????:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X8NLN9V/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07X8NLN9V&pd_rd_w=Be0L4&pf_rd_p=45a72588-80f7-4414-9851-786f6c16d42b&pd_rd_wg=Qip8v&pf_rd_r=JJENA9GKCEQ49A2P84ND&pd_rd_r=fc1dbfa4-754c-4a1d-af2b-f0c875b1e07f&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyWUw4VjhIUDUxM0FTJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODA3Njk3MU9HTjhMUTg1RjgyViZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUExMDMzMDc4MThCTjA1WktNN1Y4OSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

RCA and igloo are both very old brands in the US, but have almost certainly fallen to the wayside and been bought out. I've never heard of Kuppet or NorthAir. Take a close look - there are some differences in the handles and the knobs, but all three of these products all have the same layout - sheetmetal grille on the right hand side, controls on the lower right - power light, run light, and a knob. The lights and knobs are shaped different, but they are all in the exact same place. It's just a slightly different skin over the exact same chassis. There may be some cosmetic differences, such as the racks or handles, but they are basically the same thing. Another giveaway is if the exterior dimensions are exactly the same in every direction. Some appliances have to fit standard gaps, like a kitchen fridge or a range, so the width will always be pretty close, but the backsplash doesn't have to be an exact height.

I actually have an Igloo branded version of the RCA-Igloo and it's pretty decent. Quiet, it cools quickly, it stays frozen for days if the power goes out, and it was pretty cheap. A relative of mine bought a much bigger, front opening freezer. They spent more on it thinking it will be a better machine. And to some extent, it is. It's a completely different type and class of freezer. It was also at the upper end of the price range for that type of appliance. It looks nicer, the interior lighting is better, etc. But within a year their thermostat went bad. It's really not the manufacturer's fault, they don't make the thermostats, and it would be stupid for them to reinvent the wheel. There are already a number of other companies that have specialized knowledge that make them. It just turned out that they happened to get a lemon that didn't show up for a year. I replaced it a few years ago and it's been fine ever since.

Funny thing is the cheap Igloo has the exact same thermostat. The reason I know that is about a year into it, the Igloo also failed, only my issue was the motor starter / overload, again, not made by Igloo. After replacing that, mine has been strong for years. I didn't look at the other one closely, but I vaguely remember it being a very similar looking starter. I'd be willing to bet that, other being sized slightly larger for the bigger compressor, it's the exact same part by the same manufacturer, and it's probably on a larger but otherwise identical compressor.

What I'm getting at is it is sort of a crapshoot; infant mortality is higher these days. You can spend a lot and have it die, you can get something cheap and have it die. But you can also spend $10 to fix either and have a great machine.

I'm not an expert, but what I'm getting at is if you see two very similar but cosmetically different machines at different prices, one is a name brand, the other is not, and both have fairly similar reviews, it's usually safe to go with the cheaper one. It's probably the same thing.

Alright, what do you think I can do here - Should I try to get something likethis swivel nut for 3/16" barb? It's the only one I could find. Or should I just not bother and get the proper disconnect/line for gas like everyone else?

Isolate mechanically your refrigerator.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Silent-Feet-Anti-Vibration-Refrigerators-Freezers/dp/B00XNVIPMI

​

we used something like this on our washing machine - it worked great.

Tesla briefly offered a HPWC with a 50A cord but not anymore apparently. What you can do is get a 14-50 outlet installed and if you want a HPWC just have your electrician wire it up with this https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TCZUCZC/

FYI the white wire would not be used in that case and you would need to set the current selector switch on the HPWC to the 50A breaker setting

Pick up this kit, its important to get the EVAP cover off in one piece so you may want to let the unit completely defrost to remove it. Usually the ice is frozen to the styrofoam on the back of the EVAP cover.

Also once you remove the tar like substance near the defrost temp sensor, per the samsung bulletin the sensor should be on the left side of the copper tube its clipped onto, and the new longer probe that comes in the leakage kit you are supposed to cut the old one off the defrost element before putting the new one on.

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Assembly-Water-Leakage-DA82-01415A/dp/B010RHJ1ZA

You're going to either be looking at awkwardly small full-sized fridges around the 15 cu-ft size or dedicated beverage display coolers of various sizes.

Worked fine for about a year, then the chopper got messed up. That was covered under warranty. The upper rack adjuster/rollers started to fail within a year and WERE NOT covered by warranty. We've had to replace them annually since. The part that are to be avoided are: https://www.amazon.com/Kitchenaid-Compatible-Dishwasher-Upper-Adjuster/dp/B013JKQ2YA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1512054918&sr=8-2&keywords=kitchenaid+dishwasher+roller

Instead you should replace with:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SPYDSFC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Whirlpool 61002140 Ice Maker Tray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LHR4GR8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7DrIAbX5CJY1T

I used these two walkthroughs as guides:

• http://imgur.com/a/uGyF1
  
• http://www.instructables.com/id/2-Player-Bartop-Arcade-Machine-Powered-by-Pi/
  
  
  
  Total estimated cost is ~$500 based on:
  
  
• Flat-pack wooden cabinet with T-Molding: $185
  
• Joystick Set: $65
  
• Misc parts to make missing LED cable from Joystick Set: ~$15
  
• 22" Monitor from Craigslist: $20
  
• Raspberry Pi Kit: $50
  
• 128GB MicroSD Card: $41
  
• Speaker Bar: $20
  
• LED strip kit: $12
  
• Cheap Power strip: $8
  
• Power socket: $6
  
• Custom Marquee Printing: $50
  
• Miscellaneous Home Depot Purchases: ~$25

         Parts List for (PID Controller Box)<br />

Some of these parts may be purchased at your local hardware store for a cheaper price.....


• Dual Digital Display PID Temperature Controller: http://amzn.com/B002PIM3R8

• Solid State Relay w/ Heatsink: http://amzn.com/B005K2IXHU

• PT100 Thermocouple Sensor: http://amzn.com/B008MU0VFY

• Aluminum Project Enclosure Box, Econobox: http://amzn.com/B005T7RPFC

• 3 Pin IEC320 Male Power Socket w/ Switch: http://amzn.com/B00F4MGRRE . TIP - Replace Fuse With F15AL250V.

• GX16-3 Aviation Connector:http://amzn.com/B00FB56T04

• Black - Tamper Resistant Power Receptacle: http://amzn.com/B002L6H414

• Gray - Tamper Resistant Power Receptacle: http://amzn.com/B002L6H428

• IEC320-C13 Power Cord: http://amzn.com/B0012EI6KE

• Rubber Feet: http://ebay.com/itm/351131287090

• Heat Shrink: http://amzn.com/B00EXLLXK8

• Fork Terminal Wire Connectors - Non Insulated ~ 16-14 AWG: http://amzn.com/B00LUUAB94

• Female Disconnect - Non Insulated: http://amzn.com/B0071OXJ5Q

• Insulated Copper Wire ~ 18-14 AWG

• Nuts & Bolts

I would probably shoot more for 2.5 v/v with a german pilsner. Try to dial in to ~13PSI for 40F. This should make it taste more like the brewer intended. Here's a blower fan if your serious about fixing the first pour foaming issues. There are also DIY blower fans you can build for much cheaper but will take a few hours to put together.

This one right: https://www.amazon.co.uk/AEG-Stainless-Steel-Digital-Kettle/dp/B00IM94C2I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465395723&sr=8-1&keywords=Electrolux+kettle ?

It kinda bothers me that it has plastic on it. If I'm spending that much on a kettle I kinda want there to be no plastic touching the water.

What's your budget?

I used to have a glass kettle, but I kept catching my hands on the glass and in the end switched to this kettle. You can choose a temp between 50, 60, 70, 80, 85, 90, 95 and 100 degrees. I've had it for two years and the handle is nice and sturdy. It's definitely the best kettle I've had so far.

we use a 110v one. strictly for cocktails. takes about 15 mins or so to make enough ice for 2 drinks then we turn it off. Its not a crazy amount of power but i wouldn't want to leave it on all day either. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INXG9MY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In a former office bar we had something like this, which might help you here.

I've got one like this and it's been chugging away every day for about two years. Most of these $150-ish makers that people are posting just like this one work pretty well from what I've heard, they've all got very similar designs. They pay for themselves pretty darn quickly if you use ice frequently.


Aside from that I'd recommend storing ice in a freezer as it gets made and shutting it off when you go to bed at night. These ~26lb/day ice makers can't quite keep up with 5-6 people making drinks if you have guests, and since it'll continue recycling ice if you don't use it they can waste a decent amount of electricity at night.

Having the same dilemma here, might end up using something like this and caulking it with silicone. It's a gap filler for behind slide-in ranges, they're 30" wide already.

https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-W10113902A-Gap-Filler-Kit/dp/B00L4I780W

You cannot screen a dryer exhaust.

>M1502.2 Duct termination
Exhaust ducts shall terminate on the outside of the building or shall be in accordance with the dryer manufacturer’s installation instructions. Exhaust ducts shall terminate not less than 3 feet in any direction from openings into buildings. Exhaust duct terminations shall be equipped with a backdraft damper. Screens shall not be installed at the duct termination.

Replace the termination with a louvered cover. They are also available at Home Depot if you don't wanna order online.

Yup, capacitor, $20 https://www.amazon.com/GE-WH12X10462-Washing-Machine-Capacitor/dp/B00MNMZ6A2

Not much you can do to prevent it, and given the age it may have been from a batch of bad electrolytes. motherboards had a huge issue from the capacitor plague caused by cheap and counterfeit electrolyte.

http://www.amazon.com/midea-WHS-258C1-Single-Chest-Freezer/dp/B00MVVITCC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1450894884&sr=8-3&keywords=7.1+cubic+foot+chest+freezer

thank you for the replies! when i looked at other photos (googled "compressor relay"), the relay is a "block" that directly plugs onto the 3 pins of the compressor. (https://picclick.com/Donper-S43BZ-SK30CZ-Replacement-Refrigeration-Compressor-R-134A-123815866065.html) Mine does not have it.

What is connected to the pins is the circular part (i think it is an overload protector) then, it connects to the black piece at the bottom of the photo which is the starter relay (part QP2-4R7).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N3WFW5K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

i think this is the part i need to replace?

The FX-888D is also available on Amazon Canada for 140: https://www.amazon.ca/FX888D-29BY-Digital-Soldering-Station-FX-888D/dp/B00NF2Q8N8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501918056&sr=8-1&keywords=hakko+fx888

I have the analog version (FX-888), and it's solid. Been using it for years, easy to swap tips (but very good quality, still running on the original), slim but powerful element (65W), ready from cold start in about 30 seconds.

I also have an old Weller WTCP unit, but the Hakko beats it by leaps.

I'd want to minimize the weight loss as much as possible, so sticking with a single piece would be ideal. I'm not 100% married to the idea of having full length ribs but I'd love to do tomahawk steaks as well. Yes, I'm going to see if I can work out a way to hang the steaks also.

BUT, if that all doesn't work out, I have been checking out the Whynter. Here's the one I was looking at:
https://www.amazon.com/Whynter-BR-130SB-Beverage-Refrigerator-Stainless/dp/B00P7QI4IM/ref=pd_ybh_a_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=T8A6ZCRZ60YF21A5PN9V

I like that it has built-in circulation but how effective have you found that fan? Did you have to supplement it with a second fan and if so, how'd you do the wiring?