(Part 2) Best automotive fuses & accessories according to redditors
We found 179 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive fuses & accessories. We ranked the 83 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
They are listed as ground buss bar because they are not insulated. They are designed to mount inside an electrical enclosure directly to the metal, bonding it.
You are much better off buying something like an ATC fuse block. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N9PJ7W
That unit will also allow you to fuse everything to the proper rating.
This is the hardwire kit and this is the add a fuse
The add fuse will vary depending on the fuses your car uses.
I think this is the wrong place to post this question. You would more than likely have a way better chance in r/ElectricalEngineering or possibly a Toyota forum.
Hopefully I don't lead you the wrong way.
B+ = battery positive
ACC = accessory
B+ needs to be hooked up to a constant positive voltage
ACC needs to be hooked up to a positive voltage that turns on and off when you turn your car on.
I'm unfamiliar with the specifics of your car and camera, but you could tap into an existing circuit in your fuse box once you identify a circuit that is constantly on and one the comes on and off with your ignition using something called "add a fuse".
Here is an amazon listing of one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011I9QZX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_JAUNBb8Q4VTPH
I'd highly advise butt-splicing an inline fuse to your positive lead there, and then crimping the spade connector on the other side of the fuse.
Something like https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013JG8GIY/
Are you looking for the fuse box on the left hand side in that photo, or the breakers on the right?
The fuse box on the left was included with the power inverter I purchased. This would be a similar holder: https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Gauge-Fuse-Holder-Fuses/dp/B00D8E0SRA
Depends on the overall condition of the amp, I guess.
He means break the plastic off or desolder the holder, and solder in some thick wire in place of the fuse.
Then install something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/MUYI-Inline-Holder-Waterproof-Pigtail/dp/B07G7YMJXW
On the positive incoming power lead (or in place of the old fuse holder).
Fuse box is toast. Wire in an ATC box. This is the one I used in my KZ when the same thing happened
I wouldn't recommend using those alligator clips, especially when you have marine style studs like that! You don't even have to mess around with lead terminals, just get some (I forget 1/4" to 3/8") ring terminals and bolt it on! But first, PLEASE purchase an inline fuse holder, having a raw connection to the battery like that is asking for trouble.
Add a fuse: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011I9QZX2/
You will also need a 12v to 5v converter: https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-Converter-Power-Supply-Module/dp/B00CXKBJI2/
12v positive side of the converter goes to the add-a-fuse. For the 12v negative, screw it to any bare metal under your dash. Pre-drill or use a self-tapping screw.
5v positive and negative go to dashcam's positive and negative. In the case of a USB cable (which is what I have), red and black are positive and negative, respectively.
Make sure you look on the packaging to see if your dash cam is 5v or 12v. You can skip the convert if it's 12v. If it's USB, it will be 5v though.
One last note: Add it to a fuse that is only active when your car is on. Test this with a multimeter (one side on the fuse, other side on bare metal)
Just as a brainstorming idea, I found this thing.
Car Fuse Holder Connector Extension Adapter Mini ATM 32 V 20 Amp 16 gauge 9.5 in https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CTRNYR1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_a34VCb942M0EB
So if it works like I think it does, it should give you the space you need. Low profile works with non low profile.
I was researching this before but got sidetracked so not sure if this will lead to a solution, but thought it could be helpful for you as a starting point.
Looks like a 4 pin molex male + female would be your ideal coupler. Get one of these cords:
and chop it in half.
Use red for hot with an inline fuse holder like this one:
and a 1 or 2A fuse depending on the load of the equipment at the end.
Use yellow for neutral.
Tie both black wires together and use them both for earth ground.
Do a good job soldering and heatshrinking. I'd shrink the individual wires then put a bigger shrink over the whole thing and a not super tight ziptie on two places on each job.
This should work fine for you.
Battery and inverter. And a few bits of wire. Be SURE to put a fuse on the 12V side of the battery. If you have the muscle I would step up to a 75Ah battery for another 30-50 bucks. That way when you need to charge your laptop (5A draw from battery) the voltage of the battery going to the mount will hardly drop.
Get any ring connector ANL holder
There's a bunch, feel free to get whatever color/logo you prefer because they're all just 2 posts mounted to a plastic base with a plastic cover. Be sure to tape/zip tie the cover down so it doesn't get knocked loose.
Soldered ring connectors, on a post, touching the fuse, is one of the most secure and lowest resistance connections you can have. It's far better than the set-screw type.
I didn't keep track but several hundred dollars at least. Planning is key. Stainless hardware isn't cheap!
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My best guess would be:
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So all in that's $1,115. Sounds about right. We didn't keep a strict budget or anything and several items were Christmas gifts.
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Here's links to to stuff I got on amazon:
In larger projects where you are going to have to split a large supply into several separated runs you'll want to fuse each run independently. If you ar going to run 40A from a 60A power supply for instance, like others have suggested below it's best to run a few wires at for instance 10A.
Although it's not 100% accurate, power will take the way of the least resistance so if you lay down several wires next to your LED strip, the higher amount of copper and lower amount of resistance on those wires to the specific spots will automatically "distribute" the power among the available paths.
Always fuse below the rating of the wire (and if possible the end device), so if the wire is rated up to 15A for instance, fusing for 10A is a good idea that way, whatever happens it can never go up in smoke and cause a fire.
Since we are talking low voltage, car parts are easily available and cheap. For just a few links you could use one of these blocks: https://www.amazon.com/Support-Truck-Circuit-Standard-Holder/dp/B012CQEPN2 but if the project is a bit more complex or high amount of wires and Amps are used, these distribution blocks make your life a whole lot easier!: https://www.amazon.com/Kohree-Automotive-Waterproof-Negative-Indicator/dp/B07S99H25W Those are really excellent to work with, you can get them in 6 or 12 way variants and they take cheap car fuses which are available in lots of different values.
probably ok for what you're doing on the output side (ie. connect the loads through those fuses). Note that its ONE input and 6 outputs.
My paranoia is such (EE here) that i would put something like this on the line that goes to the positive terminal of the battery and put a 30 amp fuse in it. That means any screwups after that point just blow that one fuse. However fusing individual loads is also good (if the load shorts its fuse will blow but other loads will be unaffected). Since you have animals close to the wiring, remember they could bite through it and cause a short (possibly through the animal) too. So that protects them a bit.
Relay link
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007XLDREU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1458086788&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=automotive+relay&dpPl=1&dpID=51dpNb8gm5L&ref=plSrch
This is the one I recently bought, but there are nicer ones, such as this one if your budget allows. Just hook up the positive and negative from the battery to the fuse block and and then wire all your accessories to the block.
Thank you for the help! I think I'm starting to understand. Would it be ok to buy a relay like this? Is all the wiring there and I just need the relay or will I need some primary wire? I could find this stuff at a hardware store, right? My local motorcycle store said they only had relays for turn signals.
You are getting some conflicting advice here...
Hope this helps.
Really need a look under the heat shrink to know how the wires are connected, but this is definitely not something that requires an electrical engineer. They may be soldered or plug in terminals like on the like on the component to the left. For sure what you'll need is a fuse holder and heat shrink tubing. If they're soldered on, you'll also need a decent soldering iron and some tutorials on soldering. Soldering isn't as easy as it looks,but its not that difficult for someone with some coordination, but if you have a friend or relative with experience, it may be best to have them help out. Seriously, $190 for twenty minutes work is ridiculous. you've done most of the hard work in disassembling the speaker.
Will this work? I found the one you used but its a bit more expensive and isn't eligible for prime shipping. Will a 2 amp fuse work for the cb?
Wow, thanks for the reply! You've confirmed a lot of the things I've read elsewhere.
One followup question. You mention a fuse, I assume you mean an inline fuse. What size fuse would be appropriate? Where would I install the fuse? Would I install it where the house wiring meets the chandelier? I don't think the chandelier I am replacing (which is also a 5 bulb one) has a fuse, but I can agree it's a safe, small investment.
Thanks again.
Edit: I'm going to guess a fuse holder like this (http://www.amazon.com/1st-Source-In-line-Fuse-Holder/dp/B0002KR8EE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427549183&sr=8-1&keywords=inline+fuse+18+gauge) with a 3A fuse would probably be good.
It's a spare fuse (often bought on its own) for some kind of automotive application. The wire is uncut, and you're supposed to cut and strip it when you install it for whatever you're protecting. Not exactly sure why they ship them uncut. Maybe it saves a couple of seconds during manufacture.
Sometimes cut
Sometimes not
Yes, It's better to use 12v devices (lights and fan plus 12V usb chargers) than using an inverter to 120Vac and run 120v devices.
Lead acid batteries don't like to be run down past 50% routinely. It shortens their lifetime. So, you may want to consider 2 batteries.
Yes, fuses everywhere - between panel and charge controller and between charge controller and battery. Yes, between battery and 12 lights.
Wiring isn't too critical for your uses - automotive stores have wire and connectors and fuses.
Something like this can help with fuses and wiring: https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-H84960111-8-Way-Lateral-Single/dp/B000VU9D20/
Consider something like this, too:
https://www.amazon.com/ISWEES-Cigarette-Lighter-Splitter-Charger/dp/B00RJVJJCI/
No, you don't vent LiFePo4's. If you're reading or watching a source that says you need to vent LiFePo4 that source is wrong.
You only need to vent battery chemistries that off-gas and LiFePo4 batteries don't off-gas.
Another tip? Don't watch van life videos like they're gospel. The Vanlife business plan is to get views to make money - thus, while they may act like they have the expertise to teach you how to do this, most of the time it is also their first time doing almost everything they make videos about. Don't trust them, verify everything and google till you're blue in the face.
Use something like this diagram and you'll be fine:
https://www.parkedinparadise.com/wp-content/uploads/400W-solar-wiring-diagram.jpg
you then wire all your 12v loads into the fuse block (led lights, fan, etc).
things to note:
any q's let me know, you're going to have a badass lightweight system if you keep both batteries
The discharge rating is only half the equation anyways. What you're really looking for is the amps, which is Ah C = A. The 1450mah 30C you linked would have about 45A (1.45 30). Fuses are rated in Amps, so a 30A fuse would blow if more than 30A goes through it.
I believe Krytac uses standard blade fuses. If it blows you should be able to replace it easily. They're dirt cheap on Amazon. If you're blowing fuses though you've probably got a bigger problem.
You can wire up a switch to the fuse easily enough. You can also buy premade bypass switches.
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Ox-BX88271-Bypass-Switch/dp/B009APJ2UU
They're common in amplifiers and such, I believe it is [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Seadog-4205031-Round-Terminal-Holder/dp/B001HBUJOS) or a variant. It's name is round fuse holder with spade connectors. I searched round fuse receptacle to find that.
I tapped into the Accessory and cigarette lighter fuses (both actively being used) with my add a fuse kit.
As far as the add a fuse kit, it sounds like you purchased a ATM mini fuse kit, but you need a ATM mini LOW PROFILE for your car such as this one
http://www.amazon.com/Shipping-Circuit-Profile-Holder-Automotive/dp/B00EO571Z4/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1462405743&sr=1-3
You would want the fuse closer to the battery, and you can just run a regular fuse like this
https://www.amazon.com/WirthCo-31820-Battery-Doctor-Holder/dp/B00DQ5JRUA/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1466321383&sr=1-9&keywords=30+amp+car+fuse
keep the heavy gauge wire outside, no need to bring it into the cab. you only need a small gauge wire to turn the relay on.
you are going to go with MPPT?
This is the only one I've been able to find: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009APJ2UU/ref=psdc_15729681_t1_B009APJ32M
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I agree though, $60 is way too expensive