(Part 3) Best automotive paint & pain supplies according to redditors

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00296CI58/ref=twister_B00BW1TOI0?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

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This should answer your question.

That colour is called Patriot Blue, code DT8991. Amazon sells a can here!

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EDIT: I am dead wrong, it is in fact Midnight Blue, Patriot Blue was not available in 2006.

For the plastic, clean clean clean.

For surface prep, Don't laugh, but I whip blasted them with the sandblaster. Yes it leaves it rough and ugly. Your spraying on bedliner, no one will ever know.

Edit in, Clean it after you sand blast it. or thoroughly scuff it with 80-120 grit sand paper.

Upol Adhesion promoter


Then their acid 8 Primer.

Last Raptor bed Liner

I did the valance, fender flairs in tintatable white on my 03 Sierra. I also did the plastic pieces for the rear bumper and the plastic bed rail piece in black . Even after a year of stepping on the bumper constantly it's held up well.

Yes I'm following ChrisFixs' video on his civic suspension rebuild and he recommends you rust proof it with this paint.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H2VVQNU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I'm still organizing it, but my "kit" includes:

• DSLR Camera, prime lenses, camera bag
  
  
• Wooden yard stick (Scale bar and setting depth of field)
  
  
• IR remote control for camera (more steady camera triggering)
  
  
• Tripod on casters for faster shot setups
  
  
• Athlete's foot spray ($1 each at the dollar store)
  
  
• Developer's spray / Dulling spray
  
  
• temporary/removable rubberized paint (basecoat before spraying perm. paint) example
  
  
• Multi-colored textured spray paint Example
  
  
• Powder duster for applying inexpensive dust to objects. I haven't perfected this process. It's messy and the powder can change appearance between camera shots and spoil your entire photoshoot. I'd still like to figure out a better way because flour, baking soda, baby powder, and other dusty substances are far cheaper than spraypaint and athlete's foot spray.
  
  
• retractable kabuki brush for applying powder. I'm still experimenting with this, but it's a standard item included with the NextEngine 3D Scanner and they recommend applying talc powder to a lanolin base.
  
  
• Smart phone with lightmeter app, depth-of-field calculator app
  
  
• "Muslin" quick-clamps to drape a bedsheet behind object to diffuse lighting
  
  
• log book for optimal camera settings (dry erase board is faster for me)
  
  
• dry erase board for snapping a pic of my settings
  
  
• stickers for registration marks. I have only tried ordinary circular stickers without the computer generated encoded targets and have so far been disappointed with the results.
  
  There's probably more, but that's all I can think of for now.
  
  FUTURE ITEMS:
  
  
• $10 Lazy susan turntable from Ikea
  
  
• CNC controlled camera gantry for automated image capturing
  
  
• Field monitor for easier camera focusing. It's much harder on the small camera display.
  
  
• WiFi enabled camera or a WiFi enabled SD memory card
  
  
• A light tent - preferably with an entire setup with variable LED lighting from reddit user /u/Iontrades_
  
  https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/iontrades/lite-studio-all-in-one-photo-studio-and-3d-scanner
  
  
• Green screen backdrop for experimenting with the automask feature in 3DF Zephyr software. I may also experiment with other backdrop colors, threadcounts, and thicknesses to optimize contrast (between the workpiece and backdrop) and optimize lighting.
  
  
• Experimental mixture of white baby powder, black pepper, and acetone to make it stick together. I haven't tried this yet, but I'm hoping that the acetone would help it stick to the workpiece and quickly evaporate.

I have a mixing mate, in both the gallon and quart sizes:

http://www.amazon.com/Mixing-Mate-10-090-Gallon-Paint/dp/B00B2H7JM2

It's 1000% better than anything else out there. No stir sticks, no paint/finish on the lid or the sides, no junk getting in the paint, you can store it with this thing on, it gives you a much better handle then the metal ones that come on the can, affordable. As long as you wash right after taking it off the can and don't let anything dry on it it takes 5-10 minutes and some soapy water to get it completely clean. It's one of those gadget that once you have it you can't ever go back.

no but ive done it myself

you need this

and this

and gold spray paint

acetone off the shit paint on the heel cup and stripes. mask off the heel cup and stripes with painter's tape so none of the rest of the shoe is exposed.

spray on adhesion promoter per instructions. let dry.

spray gold. let dry.

paint on the scratch resistant sealer and you've got a long-lasting and good looking custom.

thats not any more than basic surface rust.

Get one of the Duplicolor paint pens in your color, your car's paint code is on the sticker in the drivers door frame, they typically have a hardened "sanding" tip used for cleaning scratches before paint. use the pen's tip to clean the surface rust off, then use the base coat to touch up over the exposed metal, this will protect it from further rusting in the future.

I used 80 grit sandpaper paper and an orbital sander over the whole thing. You definitely aren't trying to break through the paint just scuff/etch the paint.

If you break through the paint use #8 https://www.amazon.com/U-POL-ACID-PRIMER-M-I-R-COMPLIANT/dp/B003ZWDZ9I/ref=mp_s_a_1_28?keywords=raptor+bed+liner&qid=1550451327&s=gateway&sr=8-28

1. Wash with a non wax based car wash.
   
   
2. Paper off all areas you don't want sprayed.
   
   
3. Sand vehicle. I used 80 grit.
   
   
4. Wash car again.
   
   
5. Spray areas that broke through with #8 primer.
   
   
6. Spray vehicle. Do a good tac coat first. I waited a good 30min to an hour between coats. I sprayed in a straight horizontal formation. If you change your mind half way through and start to go up and down you'll see cross streaks. Keep it consistent.
   
   This is in a nutshell what I did. Seemed to work out for me. I would have loved to have been more detailed but I'm doing this all from my phone on vacation.
   
   

After sanding you can get red "nite shades" paint. It will dry translucent. I use it on my orange tail lights to make them red.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005257R0O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467039179&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=nite+shades+red&dpPl=1&dpID=4137OhlO4AL&ref=plSrch

I bought a new 50th Anniversary Camaro, which has a Matte section on the hood. I've been searching and reading the wiki, and just want to verify or get better recommendations than what I think I've found.

I first need to wash the car with a matte wash, so I don't get any glossifiers or waxes on the matte section. I found Chemical Guys CWS_995_16 Meticulous Matte Auto Wash, but wasn't sure if there were other recommendations.
After that, I should use a matte sealant like Chemical Guys WAC_203_16 Blue JetSeal Matte Sealant and Paint Protectant.
Then for touch-ups use Chemical Guys SPI_995_16 Meticulous Matte Detailer and Spray Sealant.
With that done, I should tape off the matte section, and care for the rest of the car with regular wax, clay, and sealant as covered in various threads and the wiki here. For the tape, I see some recommend 3M 233+ painter's tape, while others say CarPro Masking Tape. Is there a significant difference between them?

Does that sound correct?

That's terrible. I've loved Infiniti since I bought my G35 coupe and later a G37 sedan. Their functional engineering is one thing that I always appreciated and this seems totally unacceptable for their standards.

Luckily, a little touch up paint and you'll probably never notice these. stuff on the roof is simply not very noticeable. Just remember to use touch up paint applicators to get a nice even layer:
https://www.amazon.com/Detail-Micro-Brushes-Paint-Applicators/dp/B00578QW70

It sounds like there's not much you can do since they never issued a recall. I'd recommend applying some clear bra or something comparable in that area once you've touched it up.

Does the car still have any B2B warranty? If so, you should be able to successfully argue this is a warranty issue. See if they'll pay to get this professionally repaired. THEN definitely don't forget to apply the clear bra on the areas where they had been damaged.

http://www.amazon.com/U-Pol-Products-0796-Clear-CLEAR/dp/B009LHER0M/

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-00258-00070-21-White-Touch-Up/dp/B008214ZDW/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1483324963&sr=1-11&keywords=touch+up+paint

Might work if it's the same color white

I used Rust-Oleum spray paint and this sealant. LOTS of light coats of the white as it can run easily (and it smells like shit!) and then 2-3 light coats of the sealant and 1-2 heavy coats (just enough to see a glassy, shiny surface all over your system). Boom! Success.

You could always get that light, and use this to make it red (since many times that's required by law)

https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-ESHD10007-Shadow-Black-out-Coating/dp/B003E2AC0E

You can use an etching primer. Then go for the base color coat.

Just make sure you let them sit for at least 72 hours to let them outgas and cure. then you should be fine to screw them in. Just don't go too crazy with rough-housing them.

You might have some luck calling up some auto repair or welding shops and ask if they have an aluminum crack detection dye. They use them to find damage on engine blocks.

I've been detailing my own cars for a few years now. I just purchased a used motorcycle and wanted to give it a good cleaning.

However, the paint on the bike is a rough texture and I suspect its a matte finish. It doesnt feel like something I should be applying wax to. Any recommendations for protectants for matte paint?

I found this from Chemical Guys, but its $40 a bottle and gets horrible reviews. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H45R002/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3T6KJGTAQVBRQ&coliid=I19YLOQVDHSJ4&psc=1

additionally, what else should i avoid with this type of finish? Can I still wash and clay as I would normally?

Thanks so much! Sounds like 1 bottle will work but then again waiting 2 days for another isn't the end of the world.

Are you talking about this type of spray?

IDK how well this will match but Dupli-Color has touch up paint pens meant to cover up scratches on automotive body panels, they can be found on Amazon.

e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-ASF0100-Universal-Exact-Match-Touch-Up/dp/B00HE68CD0 (try and find the closest match, the one I linked may or may not be a match)

Thanks for the quick reply man, is this similar to what you used? https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-45404-Gloss-Black-Preventive/dp/B00H2VVQNU?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_2598761011#customerReviews

https://www.amazon.ca/Mixing-Mate-10-090-Gallon-Paint/dp/B00B2H7JM2

I'm sure you could find cheaper ones, the ones I'm familiar with you can connect your drill to it to mix. The paint we use is fine for years in the can with that lid.

Here is the mobile version of your link

Paint cracking. The question is why. Likely head tube is cracked. Pull the fork and headset races and have a look at the inside. if it’s obviously cracked you’re done.

If you’re unsure, might be worth having a go at it with this... https://www.amazon.com/Dye-Penetrant-Crack-Finder-Kit/dp/B00XLW4BRC

What do you think about this? I was thinking I could get away with 4 or 5 cans. Does chassis saver do something special besides make a rugged protective layer (like adhere better than a bed liner spray)? If you don't know I certainly welcome speculation.

My go to primer. Stick with the sandable cause thats the flattest one.

I just looked up white engine paint. I think you can get away with normal spray paint but I just wanted to be sure.

https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-EDE160207-Ceramic-Universal-Engine/dp/B00296CI58/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=engine+paint+white&qid=1570474256&sr=8-3

Strip:
To strip paint for aluminum or steel you can use a paint stripper or wire brush. You can also do media blasting, but only if you plan to powdercoat afterwards, because it leaves small dings in the frame. To strip a carbon frame sand it by hand. For any frame type, you don't need to strip to the bare material, but can use the existing paint as a primer.

Prime:
I use Duplicolor Self Etching Primer, with good results. It was like $24 for a 6 pack when I got it, I don't know why it's so expensive now. You could try a different self etching primer, or look for Duplicolor for cheaper. Sand down after each coat, usually a grit of 400 - 600 is good or use a lower grit if it is not smooth.


To Paint:
For DIY paint jobs you can use rattle cans or an airbrush. Sand after each coat, again starting with around 400 - 600 grit. It's hard to give specific advice for paint because there are so many different ones, and all would probably do an okay job.

Clear:
It depends how much money you want to spend. Cheap rattle clears are not durable, but the more durable 2k spray clears are expensive and toxic. I've read that you can use an airbrush for 2 part clear, but have not tried it yet.

try this. alot of guys on various car forums use it. you need to be very, very careful with the layers though. a very light dusting initial layer. then another very light layer. the first maybe 2 layers should still be spotty. you wont get full coverage until you get much more layers on. you dont want it to end up runny or pooled

Duplicolor Shadow Chrome

This is what I used. I actually got it to do some curbing repair, and ended up using it for the grille stripes and the rear emblem. It's a very close match to my wheels.

Dupli-Color HWP105 Bronze High Performance Wheel Paint - 12 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TQD9AK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_smH8Bb69ZJAYR

That’s what I’m going to try for the permanent paint. I am afraid the color won’t quite be the same, but I don’t think that Rustoleum stuff will hold up very well.

What brands specifically? Maybe this one or this one?

I could have sworn I've seen rattlecan versions. I'm sure it's not as durable, but for our application it may be fine.

http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-BAA2010-Bed-Armor-Aerosol/dp/B004SJ16QG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333480034&sr=8-1

There are touch up paint applicators you can use, which are actually more accurate to apply than the touch up paint

https://www.amazon.com/Detail-Micro-Brushes-Paint-Applicators/dp/B00578QW70

A bit pricey online but cheaper local. They will bell get paint to stick on rubber and polycaps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005IUBMS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9nidBbB7YRY4T

No, it’s this:

https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-EDAP16987-General-Purpose-Sandable/dp/B001DKR55O?keywords=dupli-color+hot+rod+sandable+primer&qid=1537220603&sr=8-1-fkmr0&ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_1

Apparently Duplicolor refers to it as “hot rod” primer.

Krylon 8830 'Dual' Flat White Paint and Prime if you want to go with a brighter style of colors on your Bones.

Get this: https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-00258-00070-21-White-Touch-Up/dp/B008214ZDW

To prevent it? Using wax in your car washes. Either wax manually, or when you get an automated car wash (if you do that), then get the "premium" option that has wax with it.