Best automotive paint & pain supplies according to redditors

We found 616 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive paint & pain supplies. We ranked the 264 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Subcategories:

Body repair paint spary guns
Automotive paints & primers

Top Reddit comments about Automotive Paint & Paint Supplies:

u/BabiesSmell · 119 pointsr/DIY

He's using high heat BBQ grill paint already.
The highest commercial heat resistant paint will be exhaust ceramic coating paint.

VHT SP102 FlameProof Coating Flat Black Paint Can - 11 oz.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CPJLGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6OqrxbC9N3WY3

u/Starman2018 · 28 pointsr/TeslaModel3

If it's a small scratch, I've heard this works well. Personally though, I'd wait a bit until you are more used to the dimensions of the car. It will very likely happen again.

u/freckled_porcelain · 25 pointsr/DIY

They have it at Home Depot/Lowes for sure. Or you could just get a 4 pack on Amazon.

u/nogberter · 18 pointsr/teslamotors

I read on several forums that this is a perfect match. I ordered, but haven't actually used it yet, so I can't give you my personal endorsement.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HE66OK8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/montypython85 · 17 pointsr/TeslaModel3

Sand it down. Touch it up with this Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share and don’t stress.

u/dpaul11 · 13 pointsr/DIY

here is the adhesion promoter that i was recommended

https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-CP199-Adhesion-Promoter-Primer/dp/B0007UAXJQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474655912&sr=8-1&keywords=adhesion+promoter

and also if you can find the "Krylon Fusion" spray can in the color you are looking for, it is supposed to be the best for plastics

u/stratospaly · 13 pointsr/TeslaModel3

I used a Dremel to smooth out the spot, 4 coats of paint and one of the sealant listed below. Very easy and looks good.

Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ECOlDb09DPAAS

u/PretttyFly4aWhiteGuy · 12 pointsr/MouseReview

You think something like this would work similarly even though it isn’t necessarily “commercial grade”?

3M 03584 Professional Grade Rubberized Undercoating - 16 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002H9CMCQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3A3kDbRDC6GX3

u/FromTheWalls · 11 pointsr/TeslaModel3
u/Ecto-01 · 10 pointsr/Shitty_Car_Mods

It's a product called VHT Nightshades its transparent paint if done correctly.



VHT SP999 Nite-Shades Lens Cover Tint Translucent Black Paint Can - 10 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CPCRS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cGjQDb8187N92

u/qubedView · 10 pointsr/TeslaModel3

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HE66OK8/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Reports say you can sand down the afflicted area of the rims and use this to make the blemish disappear.

u/agayvoronski · 9 pointsr/motorcycles

Hold up! Before you buy that! Let me get you to the link, I found some awesome gas proof stuff that I painted my tank with!

Edit: here's the link

This stuff works great, applies well, looks amazingly smooth, nice and glossy. Best of all it's gas proof, I ruined a few Rust-Oleum paint jobs before finding it.

u/Compulsive1 · 9 pointsr/teslamotors

His forehead.

Just kidding, I don't endorse any violence. Especially since I scratched my own too.

I read that this touch up paint is a good match

u/Ocrizo · 9 pointsr/TeslaModel3

Dupli-Color Dark Shadow Grey is an incredibly close match to the wheel color. I would highly recommend you pick up some 400 grit and 800 grit sandpaper to smooth out the rash and paint over the marks.

This will probably happen again, so it will be nice to have an in-house solution. If you want tutorials, just search “dupli-color” in the various Tesla reddit communities.

u/SiebenSchumacher · 8 pointsr/motorcycles

VHT is popular for heat/flame resistant paint.

  • Here is their primer

  • Here is their colored coating

  • And they have a satin coating

    I think proper cure procedure is idle 20 min then cool 20 min, idle 30 min then cool 30 min, then run it normally for 30 min or so (ride it around). You can also bake it in the oven to cure it if the muffler on the bike won't get hot enough.

    Some people have very good results with this paint. I think it's very sensitive to prep and application. Have to lightly scuff or sand the surface. Then thoroughly clean with isopropyl alcohol or something to get all the dirt and grime off. Start off with a couple of light coats then start spraying heavier and heavier.

    I have not tried this myself but I did order it last week. I removed the mufflers on my bike and I plan on painting the underpipe section.
u/Escabrera · 8 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Let me just get the safety information since that's super important and a discord server has is on command
>Clear coat
The most commonly used & recommended clear coat here is the USC Spray Max 2K High Gloss Clearcoat found here: https://amzn.to/2O0oZRB
It is also available in Matte and Semi-Gloss and all three types are highly recommended. In general, 2K clear coats will hold up much better than 1K, and will protect your work for years. Use of a standard 1K clearcoat will result in a finish that will wear off extremely quickly from use and leave you with a ruined paintjob.
Note: A couple things you need to know about USC 2K and all other 2K clearcoats.

>1. USC Spray Max 2K has a roughly 48 hour pot life. After this window has passed the clear coat will be unusable, so it's recommended you clear coat in batches.

>2. A can can typically cover 3 controllers, 3.5/4 if you're good about spraying efficiently.

>3. You must use safety equipment when using any 2k clearcoat. 2K clearcoats are HIGHLY TOXIC!*
3a. Wear a respirator, goggles, gloves, and a full body paint suit (preferably with a hood).
3b. Use light layers and work outdoors or in a professionally ventilated workshop (i.e. dedicated garage).
3c. Do not spray or leave to cure in an area where people or pets can breathe the fumes. This includes the full cure time as 2k gives off dangerous fumes until fully cured. Even very light exposure can make you sick.

>Please use the command !ccsafety to see more information
CustomGCC staff and members are NOT RESPONSIBLE if anything goes wrong.

!ccsafety info
>Respirator
Most painters in CustomGCC use the 3M Disposable Organic Vapor Respirator or similar, found here: https://amzn.to/2Nrz10Z
The cartridges on this mask are nonreplaceable and have a max use time of 8 hours before they're inneffective in protecting you, this means you must replace this mask every 8 hours of active use.
The filters also get used up just sitting around in the open air, so make sure you store it in an airtight bag between uses if you want to get the full 8 hours out of it.

>For a re-usable mask and replacement filters these are good options:
Mask
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Comfort-Facepiece-Reusable-Respirator/dp/B01DU2ZPHW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1527054681&sr=8-5&keywords=respirator
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JZ1MK6/ref=psdc_2257619011_t3_B00IF7RAP8

>Filters
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Cartridge-60923-Respiratory-Protection/dp/B00AEFCKKY/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=organic%2Bvapor%2Brespirator&qid=1556003582&s=gateway&sr=8-12&th=1&psc=1

>Other Necessary Protection
Make sure to wear safety goggles, nitrile or similar gloves, and wear long sleeves/pants to prevent the 2k getting on your skin. Any clothes worn while spraying should be immediately changed out of and washed to prevent any chemical being absorbed by your skin.
A Tyvek paint suit is highly recommended: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VMU2SN4?pf_rd_p=f3acc539-5d5f-49a3-89ea-768a917d5900&pf_rd_r=QCS32SZFBER5RSNBE34X

>For a full writeup on respirators and safety gear please check this link:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/13aNeXXbrsHRQ14O4L9qJy682otQVSmGREF5aQ1I-I9I/edit?usp=sharing

u/RazorLeafAttack · 8 pointsr/Gameboy

In the custom GameCube controller community the use of a high end clear coat called USC Spray Max 2K High Gloss is strongly recommended. It’s designed for automotive use and worth noting—it’s very toxic and the can needs to be used within 48 hours before it cures in the can. The second most recommended option is Rustoleum 2x clear gloss which has worked well for me, is much cheaper, it isn’t a specialty product, and doesn’t need to be used within a 2 day window.

u/HyJenx · 8 pointsr/bikewrench

Pretty much anything that you can buy at a big box store will fail fairly quickly.

Your best bet for a clear finish would probably be an automotive clear coat. These are 2-part catalyzed finishes that hold up very well, but are a little pricey.

Here is one option.

I have not used this particular brand, but it seems to get high reviews.

If you want color on your bike, look for local powder coaters. It can be done for a couple hundred dollars, and will last forever.

u/Tomtom0123 · 8 pointsr/teslamotors

Touch Paint
Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.5 oz.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YPsKDb133CFT3



  1. Used 800, 1000, 1500 Sandpaper to sand down the rims as much as I can to be less noticeable.

  2. Touch up paint with 3 base coat and clear coat to finish it up.

    Edit: watched a few YouTube videos of Tesla Curb Rash repairs and find the one that best fit for you. I watched this guy for pointers


    https://youtu.be/gQGrX3-MwZA
u/kickrockspal · 8 pointsr/TeslaModel3
u/chrisbrl88 · 7 pointsr/HomeImprovement

You have to first use an ahesion promoter. Also available on Amazon or at any auto parts store. It's a critical step when painting plastic of any kind. Adhesion promoter followed by primer followed by paint.

The paint you want to use will determine the primer you use. If you're going with a brush-on exterior latex or oil base, use the Zinnser. If you plan on a spray paint (my preferred way to do shutters), go with the 2x (Krylon also makes a good plastic primer), your color coat, then a clear for UV resistance and durability.

u/D00MK0PF · 7 pointsr/motorcycles
u/punkonjunk · 7 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

just as an FYI, that topcoat is garbo and won't last as long as you'd like. this stuff is amazing: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0043B7UQY

BUT very toxic, and you must wear a good mask with it, like this one at a minimum.

the customGCC community also dabbles in pro controllers and joycons and is an amazing learning resource if you are looking for more information on doing this, and doing custom buttons as well! I have learned SO MUCH about painting in just the last couple months I've been there.

u/perishabledave · 7 pointsr/TeslaModel3

This is what I see recommended on this sub. I ended up buying the Dupli color stick and some sand paper too. Have yet to find the time to do it.

Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BJy6CbD6KH8DM

u/TheFirstRuKuS · 6 pointsr/motorcycles
u/DirtyYogurt · 6 pointsr/Shitty_Car_Mods

Dipped rims are easy, cheap, and look great. I dipped mine about 8 months ago with this kit (had a can left over) and there's been 0 wear/peeling/damage on them in that time. They even hold up going through the car wash. Only complaint is the matte finish is a bitch to keep clean.

I don't know why you would go with duct tape. Yeah it's cheaper, but... $30 is still pretty cheap :/

u/thehumble_1 · 5 pointsr/ExpectationVsReality

I've got a bunch of things that I rattle can painted and they quit smelling after a few days. There are definitely a bunch of down sides to spray painting your shoes though, like what if sweat releases the paint and you have half chrome feet for a month.

Fabric spray : Dupli-Color HVP106 Flat Black High Performance Vinyl and Fabric Spray - 11 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00098PO3G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aBB7ybV3KD6QQ

Chrome bumper: Krylon Looking Glass Silver-Like Aerosol Spray Paint 6 Oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003971BAY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iAB7ybV60J0S1

u/imprl59 · 5 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Clean it up good then you can use anti-corrosion washers or [anti-corrosion spray](https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80370-Battery-Protector-Aerosol/dp/B000BOKML2/ref=sr_1_2? s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496404545&sr=1-2&keywords=anti+corrosion+spray) or just coat them in a heavy grease after you retighten.

The corrosion is caused by the dissimilar metals and perhaps a bit by the hydrogen gas generated when charging the battery.

u/yourbadinfluence · 5 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

You can try to clean it off with a wire brush and white vinegar. It looks pretty bad though, I'd make a trip to the dealer and get a new part. Then when you install it spray some of corrosion preventative on the exposed metal. Here is a link to one product but I'm sure your local auto parts store has it or something similar.
Permatex 80370 Battery Protector and Sealer, 5 oz. net Aerosol Can https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BOKML2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_owJ.yb6PW3WWM

u/corgismorgii · 5 pointsr/motorcycles

Gasoline drips will ruin ur clear coat if u use Rustoleum clear.

​

You need 2K Clear Coat (Epoxy 2 part clear coat). Its gasoline resistant basically. 1 Can did my SV650 gas tank to perfect gloss.

https://www.amazon.com/U-S-Chemical-Plastics-4333062164-Spraymax/dp/B0043B7UQY

proper paint spray mask recommended

u/AwesomeArachnid · 5 pointsr/cars

I made this diagram, not to scale of course.

My theory is that if there's enough healthy base coat left under the oxidization, you can VERY carefully sand off the damaged clear coat and base coat then just spray more clear coat over it, you would have a slight variation in color from the base coat that has been exposed to the elements to the newly uncovered base coat but once it's clear coated it shouldn't be too noticeable and is definitely an improvement over oxidized and failing clear coat.

I'd approach it by masking off the exposed base coat while I got rid of the messed up clear coat, then removing the masking tape and very carefully sanding the base coat. I'd wetsand with 1000 grit for pretty much everything since it will cut relatively slowly and make it more difficult to take too much off. The main risk is taking too much base coat off while sanding the edges of the damaged clear coat, hence the masking tape.

If it turns out that the base coat is damaged all the way through or you accidentally sand too much, then you'd need to get some paint in a rattle can to try to match the factory color, this could either be Duplicolor, custom mixed stuff from a website like automotivetouchup.com, or you might be able to find a shop that would match it for you. None of which is going to be perfect so I would probably opt for one of the first two choices.

Either way, the area you are working with needs to be sanded with 1000 grit, so after you finished that you would spray the new matchedish basecoat on and try to blend the edges as best you can, then give it a week or so to dry because otherwise you can get some nasty interactions between the paint and the clear. After that week or so you would then sand the newly sprayed basecoat with 1000 grit. You can drive the car after letting the base coat dry for a few hours though.

At this point all you need to do is spray the clear, so if you had to wait for new basecoat to dry you would clean the area very well then wipe it down with alcohol, then spray a 2k automotive clear coat such as this over the area. For very large areas it starts to lose it's cost effectiveness, but if you have access to a compressor and paint gun it could be fairly economical.

You also don't have to clear coat an entire panel, you can mask off just the area to clear coat then sand and buff the line out, but unless the clear coat line is on a body line then it can be very difficult to make the transition seemless without sanding too much off.

Keep in mind that this is just a theory I've come up with over the course of spraying the Integra in a carport wrapped in plastic then attempting various paint repairs in my driveway/garage. It's also worth noting that on metallic paint jobs, if you have to spray any new base coat it will absolutely look wrong, and if it's pearl you can forget about it. I had a bad spot on the door of a silver Civic I had a few years ago, in the end it looked alot better but it was pretty apparent if you looked closely.

u/nakedrickjames · 5 pointsr/Cartalk

Usually that's because once you clean them up, you've polished / sanded off the UV protectant that's on the exterior. You can simply re-spray a decent quality clearcoat on the outside and they should last quite a while.

u/mrmattolsen · 5 pointsr/mazda3
u/Boston_TD_Party · 5 pointsr/teslamotors
u/thebigbobowski · 5 pointsr/teslamotors

I’m an idiot as well and curbed my back rim on the very first day I had the car. I purchased some touch up paint from Amazon for 15 bucks and fixed it myself though. Looks decent enough. Not perfect but you’d never know unless you’re looking at it up close. This paint matches the aeros pretty much spot on:

Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/NIGHTHAWK017 · 5 pointsr/teslamotors

This is the one I saw someone post a few days ago.

Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_N-IWCbR0XGE43

Just ordered one earlier today.

u/TemptedTemplar · 5 pointsr/teslamotors

Depending on how much rash there is, other users use this touch up pen to simply recolor the bare metal, as it's a near perfect match for the original rim color.

u/afterlife19 · 5 pointsr/TeslaModel3

I picked up a Dupli-Color Dark Shadow Grey for Ford at a local auto store for $15 and it's almost an exact match.

Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HE66OK8/

u/SunnySouthTexas · 4 pointsr/vandwellers

Butyl tape or Dicor underneath. Either the leveling or the Gravity-Defying version.

Then the fan.

Then Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealant around the edge - it oozes into the cracks and crevices. I used three layers, the first a small bead that I watched slide right under the seam! Then a couple big beads to spread and coat the area.

And I followed the Dicor with EternaBond over top of the seam.

As seen here.

u/CaptainJamesMaySlow · 4 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Clear coat provides protection over the headlight after sanding/polishing. I used this after restoring my headlights, came out real nice. https://www.amazon.com/Spraymax®-Glamour-Gloss-Aerosol-Usc-3680061/dp/B0043B7UQY

Video applying a clear coat to headlights: https://youtu.be/UEJbKLZ7RmM?t=449

u/femaledocnotnurse · 4 pointsr/TeslaLounge

Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I bought this from amazon and it worked great. Has a coarse end to sand it down and matches perfectly.

u/techiewriter · 4 pointsr/teslamotors

I see this one recommended often for the aero wheels and can confirm, It’s a really good match.

Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/jamsessionein · 3 pointsr/cosplayprops

To add to the iron powder idea, there are actually metalized paints that are basically iron powder in an acrylic binder that you can brush onto parts and then weather with actual rusting solutions. Might consider spraying the piece first with a clear adhesion promoter. One thing to be aware of is that the rust can continue for aaaages, so once you've got it it to a point where you're happy with the look you may want to put some kind of sealer over the thing to lock it in.

u/Kevlar157 · 3 pointsr/IS300

Before any mentions it... yes that awful display surround has been changed... A little over a year and no issues with peeling or cracking in NC weather.

Just do a bunch of layers of adhesive spray, some paint and a couple of uv protective coats of flat clear. Set aside a whole day if you plan to rip everything out like I did.

https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-EHVP10600-Black-Performance-Fabric/dp/B00098PO3G

u/ArmoredAmir · 3 pointsr/funkopop

Spray the print with a filler primer, sand it, rinse and repeat until the surface is to your liking. Then do a coat of matte primer (Make sure you test the two primers to make sure there won’t be a reaction). Then just acrylic paint.

u/combatchuck · 3 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

I've never understood why people think that pouring Coke, which has phosphoric acid, is supposed to clean up battery corrosion caused by sulfuric acid. Scrape off the corrosion, dump a bunch of baking soda on there, let it sit until it cakes, and scrape that off. Wire brush clean. Keep your terminals as sealed and dry as you can. They make spray to keep the terminals protected. It works wonders.

u/GreanEcsitSine · 3 pointsr/gaybros

Baking soda + water are great for clean dirty car battery terminals.

Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable.

Make a slightly watery mixture of baking soda and water (filtered or distilled is recommend), and carefully pour the mixture onto the battery terminals; Be careful not to let the water touch both terminals.

Using an old toothbrush or wire brush, scrub the corrosion off the terminals, then rinse with filtered or distilled water.

With your terminals nice and clean, repeat the process on your battery cable connectors (it might be easier to soak the connectors in a baking soda solution instead of trying to pour it).

apply either battery terminal protector, Dielectric Grease, or a thin layer of [protroleum jelly] (http://www.amazon.com/Vaseline-100%25-Petroleum-Jelly-Ounce/dp/B007E62538/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1374477009&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=petroleum+jelly) to the terminals of the battery.

Reconnect your positive terminal, then reconnect your negative terminal and you're all set!

u/CaptainPreposterous · 3 pointsr/vandwellers

Always loved that body style. Definitely a head turner. I used Dicor self-leveling Lap Sealant on my Transits Maxair fan, good stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-501LSW-1-Self-Leveling-Sealant-10-3-Fluid_Ounces/dp/B000BRF7QE/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=lap+sealant&qid=1568246948&sr=8-4

u/StolidSentinel · 3 pointsr/vandwellers
u/Novux · 3 pointsr/Stance

I've used VHT's Night Shade previously. Basic rattle-can application.

u/The_UTMOST_respwect · 3 pointsr/G37

They may be custom and not just tinted. But I think masking off the circles and using [NightShades](VHT SP999 Nite-Shades Lens Cover Tint Translucent Black Paint Can - 10 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CPCRS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9tbVDbD97SR29) would get a similar effect.

u/Jhubbz86 · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

I've used VHT Nightshades on my tail lights before, then putting a few coats of clear on top of that, then wet-sanding and polishing. Turned out pretty darn good. This might be a similar application if you are willing to experiment. You can find them cheaper at local Auto part stores.

u/Tissue285 · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing
u/Jugrnot · 3 pointsr/NFA

This.

I recommend VHT paint. I painted my car's turbo manifold, turbine housing and downpipe with the shit and after about 20k miles it still looks good.

u/slamsomethc · 3 pointsr/DRZ400

Unfortunately, for some reason, the third hose is included in the airbox microfiche, not the crankcase one or whatever one the oil return tank is located in. Found this out when I was repairing mine. Check it out. It connects on top of the large rear carb boot (#6, sorry, not the airbox. Technically called the outlet tube :P ) with a little plastic L piece.

Parts 11, 16, and 17 is what connects to the oil return tank.

I would use something higher heat resistant. Air duct material is usually only rated for about 180° degrees Fahrenheit radiant heat. This and related material is rated for 2000° F radiant, and like 400° F direct contact I believe.

They also have a black spray on coating. This would look perfect I imagine. Give it a couple coats, and I'm sure it'll protect it just as well.

DEI stuff is sold in O'reilly's, Pep Boys, etc. if you can't wait and don't mind paying a couple bucks more than Amazon Prime.

Any tape or sealant, make sure the oil return tank is SUPER clean. Any residual oil (oil in plastic even) can make adhesives not want to stay attached.

u/gszwabowski · 3 pointsr/wiiu
u/Porkpants81 · 3 pointsr/3DS

One of the best things for painting rubber would be "Plasti-Dip":

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00176DDPK/ref=twister_B00KYFX2HE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

The thing is that it might not work well on something like a carrying case since it is fairly thick.

If the rubber on the case is soft and flexible it will be very hard to paint it and not have cracks show up on the paint as it bends from opening and closing.

u/ViridisTheBlade · 3 pointsr/theydidthemath

That all depends. Minimum amount to cover the body? Average male? Average female? I mean, you can gold plate your tongue for about $2 USD, but we're gonna need specifics. The average male bodies surface area is about 1.9m^2 (According to wikipedia), and according to its Amazon page one sheet about 9in^2 and weights a total of 0.3 ounces for the whole pack, so 0.3 divided by 25 sheets means that each sheet weighs about 0.012 ounces. So if 1.9 square meters, is 2945 square inches, then you would need 327.22222222222222222222222222 sheets to cover a human males body, which equates to about $654, or about 4 ounces of gold. My math is probably wrong, but thats what I got. Correct me if I'm wrong.

u/hansmoman · 3 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

In your other post, its hard to tell for sure but the factory paint looks to be in tact. If you have them plastic wheel well liners are the first and most effective line of defense to stop rocks from ruining your paint.

I wouldn't sand off the factory paint just so I could apply POR15. Also I don't think you can get the paint out of the nooks and crannies without a sandblaster. POR15 says right on their website you CAN apply it over existing paint, but you don't get the anti-rust benefits unless its applied over bare metal. If you are going to this much trouble, you really should wipe it down with a degreaser / alcohol / acetone.

Regarding spray on undercoatings I have used the 3M Rubberized Undercoating (link) and its easy to use, but its only been a few years for me so I can't say how well it will hold up. IF you are currently rust free, you can just spray that over what you have now and skip the POR15.

u/Apotropaic_Sphinx · 3 pointsr/CherokeeXJ
  1. PO is an idiot. Definitely restore the factory harness. It's a lot of work but you'll thank yourself when you replace/upgrade the radio in the future.

  2. High-pinion Dana 30 from late 90's XJs. Make sure that the gear ratio is the same as your old one.

  3. It is bad tires. It's also bad shocks and bad alignment.

  4. I didn't have the patience for POR 15 so I used 3M undercoating spray. It's basically similar stuff to what the factory used. I used 4 cans to really get everywhere and I'm very happy with it.
u/tmluna01 · 3 pointsr/MouseReview

You can mask off certain areas if you like. Also, try 2k spray as a top coat for maximum durability.

https://www.amazon.com/U-S-Chemical-Plastics-4333062164-Spraymax/dp/B0043B7UQY

u/RandyDanderson · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing
u/Bengbab · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

You can't use standard rattle can clear coat. I did first time and had same issue. I then learned about 2k clearcoats (2 part epoxy coat in a rattle can). It's def gas proof.
https://www.amazon.com/Spraymax%C2%AE-Glamour-Gloss-Aerosol-Usc-3680061/dp/B0043B7UQY

Here's my bike before/after:
https://m.reddit.com/r/250r/comments/4vhpz3/decided_i_wasnt_a_fan_of_the_blue_spent_the/

u/CalZeta · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

2k two-part clear coat seems to be what you're looking for. It's not cheap, but will withstand exposure to gasoline from what I've read.

u/chocolatemeowcats · 3 pointsr/bikewrench
u/FYWGI67 · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

I did a rattle can on my motorcycle. Here's an album of the whole process. Rattle Can Paint Job I think it turned out pretty well. The end step should be using a 2 part clear coat that is resistant to fuel, they have some that comes in a spray can too. it worked well for me.

I used this page as a resource

Edit: this is the clear coat I used

u/lkmartin · 3 pointsr/customGCC

Hey! The best thing to do is to apply some form of protectant. This Glossy Clear coat spray is pretty well-used in the community, just be careful to spray in a well ventilated area/ use a respirator, since this stuff is pretty dangerous if inhaled.

u/stinkycretingurl · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

every single time i overfill my tank or get drops of fuel on mine i say a little thank you prayer to spraymax 2k. i CANNOT imagine what my bike would look like without that clear coat. i have had gas just pour down the side of the tank before. spraymax 2k is the shit.

u/rvlvrlvr · 3 pointsr/bicycling

You could probably get a set of these from ebay in white (or whatever color you want) and stick the small ones on the front of your levers. Maybe scuff up the finish of the levers first, apply the decals, and then spray on a clear-coat (having taped off everything else, of course) to get it to stay on there without being rubbed off.

I've used this aerosol-spray clearcoat to great effect when I stripped and re-finished the frame of my Trek 5200 (before, after). Problem with this product, however, is that it is a two-part aerosol and thus has a usable time of about 48 hours from the time that you puncture the inner chamber to start mixing it. So it's kind of a waste if all you're clear-coating is just the levers...

u/thefru · 3 pointsr/gaming

I don't know what OP used, as his finish is more of a matte. But I've had great success with this 2K clear coat.

u/cplrampage · 3 pointsr/projectbike

As previously mentioned, spray cans will do just fine for the primer and color. However do not use a regular clear coat for a gas tank, no matter how fuel resistant they say they are, they will still be damaged by gas. You need to get a 2K clear coat, it is a two part paint that will cure and harden and is what is stock on your bikes tank generally. You can buy them in spray cans that have a special valve on the bottom to allow you to mix the two parts.

USC SprayMax 2K Glamour High Gloss Aerosol Clear https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0082LJMC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_m7qwCbSMY78J1

That is what I used to do my bike last winter, still looks great and is a super hard and scratch resistant finish. The stuff is pretty toxic, you will want to buy a suitable respirator, not just a face mask. You can primer and paint your tank as normal, wait a week or more for all of the solvents in the paint to evaporate (don't rush this, just wait, even if you think it is dry, wait even longer if it is cold out). Once that is done follow the directions on the gloss spray paint. https://imgur.com/Ovmz5mG.jpg

u/huckyourmeat · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Below is what I used. I did a few coats and then a quick polish the next day to knock down the little bit of orange peel I had.

2K Glamour High Gloss Clear Coat, Aerosol, 11.8-oz, Pt# 3680061 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0082LJMC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tH1uybY71238W

u/TheKobayashiMoron · 3 pointsr/teslamotors

Looks good. Other people have posted that getting a new Aero wheel from a service center is only $200, but this type of repair is a nice option for people that aren't close to one. Plus I'm sure theres labor and stuff on top of the $200.

This touch-up pen is a great match for minor damage.

u/becoolbasf · 3 pointsr/teslamotors

Here you go: Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/thatazianguy · 3 pointsr/teslamotors

I used this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HE66OK8/

Its for Ford, but it works great with the aero wheels and is almost indistinguishable up close.

u/larsocam · 3 pointsr/teslamotors

I can't remember if I saw it here or on Facebook but it happens frequently. Just happened to my car too. Some people have down an at home repair by sanding the damaged area with increasing grits then using this touch-up paint.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HE66OK8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Ov3rsprayed · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Dupli-Color HVP106 Flat Black High Performance Vinyl and Fabric Spray - 11 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00098PO3G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1wqCDb1RZK11Q I would give that a try. Even if it doesn't look perfect it's cheap enough to be worth a try.

u/SearingPhoenix · 2 pointsr/Nerf

DupliColor Vinyl Dye is probably the least prep-intensive and best product for base coats. The downside is that it comes in limited colors and is a bit harder to get your hands on than conventional spray paint. Check your local automotive stores, or the auto section of your supermarket. Flat black is recommended.

u/SnowThrasher · 2 pointsr/Autobody

Never used that website but seems expensive.

Amazon has this kit which seems nice because it includes clear coat. Just make sure you get the correct color. Even a color match will have a variation in the color. Be prepared, you will see the fix.

Then you just need a primer Try not to sand to metal.

u/rendik · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

If you cannot find it in a local store, you can order it online:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B6DG7C/

u/dont_get_pissy · 2 pointsr/whatisthisthing

Use some baking soda and water (spoonful to a cup), let it work (3-5min), then brush with a wire brush. Then remove the terminal and repeat on the terminal and the battery post. Grab some battery terminal protecter and give it a nice coat. Following these steps takes a little more time, but is the most thorough and longest lasting method I've come across. Cleaning the outer surface before removing helps your wrench get a better bite when removing pesky terminals.

u/RV9 · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

Silicone won't last up there, but can be a temporary fix. Keep in mind you will have to remove it and clean the area quite well when you do the permanent fix. Dicor Self Leveling Lap Sealant is what you need. I provided the link so you could see the label. Camping World will carry it for sure, if you have one near you. I am not sure if Lowe's or Home Depot carry it. This is THE solution you need.

u/mclovinlovin · 2 pointsr/FZ07

I used this, with like 3 or 4 super light coats. I didn't want it to make them useless, I hate blacked out lights. I just wanted a little less orange.

https://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP999-Nite-Shades-Cover-Translucent/dp/B000CPCRS6

u/quattrophile · 2 pointsr/cars

VHT Nightshades works pretty well so long as you take your time and do it properly. That said folks I know who've done it have had to upgrade their taillight bulbs after because they went so dark it was dangerous, you could hardly see the lights illuminating during the day.

u/TJUNKIN · 2 pointsr/DaftPunk

As far as I know, there are 3 methods.

First, you can use the sticker window tint and hope you can get the creases out. It seems like a long-shot so I avoided it.

Second, you can possibly tint the plastic by dipping it in warm fabric dye. Some people have said that it doesn't work, others have said that it warped their plastic. So I avoided that too.

Lastly, you can use a spray paint called Nightshades. It is used to tint taillights on cars, but people have used it for helmets and other plastics before. I just tested it out on some spare plastic tonight, and it looks like it should work. You just have to be really careful about scratches and dust as they will magnify in the tint.

TL;DR Use the spray-on tint Nightshades (Amazon).

u/altalector · 2 pointsr/CrownVictoria

VHT SP999 Nite-Shades Lens Cover Tint Translucent Black Paint Can - 10 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CPCRS6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_Cp0XDb75VZ842

u/deceptiveat70 · 2 pointsr/GrandCherokee

Okay, I'll try to get this done on mobile.

Headlights: heat them and pop them open. It's honestly a huge pain in the ass Lol. Mask off and paint the internal bezel to your preference, but at least leave the ribbed and textured parts silver to ensure you still get good beams out of your lights. (The corner turn lens is also in there, see below for the tinting process.) Buy some butyl rubber ribbon and use that to heat and reseal your lights. I'll post links to the process I followed if I can dig them up on my PC. it's a little labor intensive, but the unique look is worth it.

Taillights and front corner turn signals: follow the process for applying VHT Nightshade spray on tint. I think mine are 3 or 4 coats and then clear coat. The clear reverse lights were masked for the tint and unmasked for the clear. You can then sand and buff them to whatever level of gloss you want. Mine were left slightly matted.

Lift/shocks/wheels/tires: it's an RC 2" bb with load levelers I got from Kolak on Jeep forums. Wheels are Discount tire MB TKOs and tires are 265/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs.

It's got a pinchweld mod to clear the tires.

If you want deeper info say the word and I'll give you a deeper write up when I'm on a PC.

EDIT for links

u/Just_the_Truths · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I honestly have no clue about this. I'm just using google. Something like this is what I'm thinking https://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP102-FlameProof-Coating-Black/dp/B000CPJLGM

u/peteck727 · 2 pointsr/skoolies

Took me forever to figure this out. It’s not easy finding parts for the little three inch pipe. I ended up using the transition plate listed below with high temp insulation between it and the roof. Then on the roof I installed one of these high temp silicon rain guards. Also, if you are looking for a chimney cap Home Depot sells a cheap one that was recommended to us by cubic mini. We painted the stove pipe and chimney cap black using high temp paint.

176203 3" Ceiling Support/ Firestop-... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NHWAQK?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Insulation, Wool, 0 to 1200 Degrees F https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZI4T1U?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

3 Silicone Hi-Temp Pipe Flashing... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0792PT94W?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


https://www.homedepot.com/p/100396919

VHT SP102 FlameProof Coating Flat... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CPJLGM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/t25torx · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

No need to sand down to bare metal if the paint isn't pealing. Just take a red scotchbrite pad and scuff them up real good so the new paint will bite and get good adhesion. Wipe them down with some wax and grease remover, then mask them up to keep over-spray from getting everywhere and shoot some SEM trim paint on them.

u/Blau- · 2 pointsr/E30

Use SEM trim paint. It's extremely easy to use and gives an OEM matte finish.
https://www.amazon.com/SEM-39143-Trim-Black-Aerosol/dp/B000EM019O

u/ColorWheelSTL · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

https://www.amazon.com/SEM-39143-Trim-Black-Aerosol/dp/B000EM019O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537665648&sr=8-1&keywords=SEM+Trim+Black

​

Tape off and paper anything you don't want to be black. Scuff with a grey scuff pad and spray it. If it's cracking or pitted you may need to go after it with some 400 or 600 grit sandpaper until it's smooth. Prep with a degreaser or IPA before you spray it.

u/SamObius · 2 pointsr/functionalprint

I sanded until my thumb bled.

Then I hit it with high fill primer:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PKX16A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then I sanded that down smooth through the thumb pain.

Then I hit it with the texture spray linked above.

Then I gave it a couple of coats of "Trim Black":
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EM019O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The texture spray really hides a lot of the imperfections

u/DisenfranchisedVet · 2 pointsr/Harley

Amazon. This is the exact kind I used.

u/Grasshoppeh · 2 pointsr/Archery

Kinda want to do this with my White Gold Black Wiawis Nano Max. How did you go about protecting the rest of the riser? Would you be apposed to pointing me to the can of red you used, mind pointing me to the product you used? (was it this?)

I love your riser, I wish I could upvote it multiple times :)

u/Darkjediben · 2 pointsr/Warhammer

https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-DAP1689-General-Purpose-Sandable/dp/B002984MTG?th=1

You'll notice the single can is 13 bucks, but a case of six comes out to a little under six bucks. If you go to an auto parts store instead of ordering online, you'll pay much closer to the bulk price than you will ordering a single can online.

u/A_Cow_Tin · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

This is the brand I like to use. It goes on very light and doesn't clog up detail. Make sure you shake the can a lot and test it on a sprue before you do it on the model.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002984MTG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/SilverSportRunner · 2 pointsr/4Runner

I used this for rust conversion:
Rustoleum automotive rust reformer. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003HG48AC/ref=pd_aw_sim_60_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=AT7Q8GF6HPCHYDYGCC9M&dpPl=1&dpID=41Dob2efETL

And this for the under body coating:
3M pro undercoat
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002H9CMCQ/ref=pd_aw_sim_60_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MGW2KRC0CD2B6XH89VXB&dpPl=1&dpID=61ypq2wgP3L

I used spray for both for getting into tight spaces. If I could do it again, I might line-x or monstaliner the underside for toughness though that coating was pretty tough it feels like it would scrape off on stuff but I sold my old 4runner before I could test that out.

u/Boogieman065 · 2 pointsr/Trackdays


>Is there a good way to go about getting custom graphics for my new bike? The owner had put stuff on the bike that just isn't me, and wanting to find out how to make it my own.
>

Most cost efficient track bike only owners use rattle cans. Look into spray painting/decals and using 2K clearcoat to seal it. If you're patient, the results can be real close to what professionals will do for you.


>At what point are tire warmers actually necessary? I got a pair with the bike, but haven't ever used them.
>

They help prevent your tires from going through multiple unnecessary heat cycles. It'll preserve the material. The use of warmers is more important if you're on track slicks than street tires, as track tires are not designed to go through many heat cycles. Track tires also provide very little grip when "cold" to the point where it could be dangerous for the first few laps.

>Im in California and my local tracks are Sonoma Raceway and Thunderhill.
>

Awesome sauce! I'm in Sacramento and I'll be at Thunderhill September 16th.

u/ngostout · 2 pointsr/DIY

This stuff is pretty good at making damn near anything glossy.

http://www.amazon.com/Spray-High-Gloss-Clearcoat-Aerosol/dp/B0043B7UQY

It's also really tough and holds up nicely in weather of all sorts and sun; I use it on my motorcycle builds. Best of all it drys fast. But be warned, it is toxic, so use a mask and do it in a WELL ventilated area. Also make sure you keep the helmet spotless clean before you apply it because it will seal everything in permanently.

u/MatteBlack12 · 2 pointsr/customcontrollers

Looks great! If you want to take it a step further, I recommend using an automotive clear coat like this one. I made my first controller a few days ago, and it made a big difference. Here’s how it came out. (Note that fumes are toxic, hold your breath or use a respirator.)

u/deusnefum · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Filling, sanding, priming (and repeating that process a few times), and then painting and then putting a catalyzed clear coat would make this look like the real deal.

u/stillrusting · 2 pointsr/carmodification

This stuff is slick. Use a respirator.

Spraymax 3680061 2K Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0043B7UQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uiSZCbB4ZE7Y5

u/ExcerptMusic · 2 pointsr/Luthier

Basically. Think of the paint and clear as pieces of clear paper. You just keep stacking it. You have your primer, paint, paint, then clear, then sparkles, then clear, clear, clear, clear.

The more clear, the more depth. Too much clear and it starts to get hazy, unless you wet sand really well between coats.

Also do yourself a HUGE favor and get this spray clear. Once you use the hardener, you have 48 hours to spray more coats which is plenty of time.

u/kousun12 · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

I also spray painted my r6, and used this for the gas tank. It's full 2k clear in a can with hardener that activates when you push the button on the bottom, so you can spill all the gasoline you want on the tank and it'll still be okay! :D

u/repens · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

USC Spray Max 2k High Gloss Clearcoat Aerosol https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0043B7UQY/

u/Zombie650 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0043B7UQY?pc_redir=1407179716&robot_redir=1

This is a catalyzed 2k urethane clear not much different from what you would spray out of a gun. I've used their primer (which worked excellent) but not the clear as of yet ( I use cheap harbor freight hvlp guns). You mix the clear and reducer by pressing a button on the can before you use it (one time use). Pretty space age for rattle can, and will be infinitely more durable than non-catalyzed clears.

u/moelost · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

I used Spray Max 2k urethane clear over regular Rustoleum or Duplicolor acrylic enamel paint. It actually turned out really good. The 2K Urethane spray can really comes out well and ends up looking like a total professional paint job for much, much less.

Note: the urethane clear needs to be sprayed in a very well ventilated area and you MUST wear a protective mask and goggles. The stuff is super toxic. But you'll read all about it because the can is basically one huge warning label.

u/Adric-Customs · 2 pointsr/Gamecube

I’d highly recommend this.


USC SprayMax 2K Glamour High Gloss Aerosol Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0082LJMC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Lw5MDbAW4ZCZN

Remember to wear protective gear like glasses and respirator. This stuff is t your granddaddies rattlecans

u/Ialsofuckedyourdad · 2 pointsr/PS4

So after 1 year of the painted ps4 it has held up pretty well overall. Yesterday i disassembled it again to clean up some dust and throw in some new thermal paste ( i just used as5 as it has never let me down before ) the paint had some marks on it from moving, it does appear that even after 6 months the clear coat still hasnt fully hardened yet. If i were to do it again i would use a clear coat with a hardener ( something like this ) but for the most part it looked ok, i waxed it with mothers synthetic wax and it looks 90% as good as it did when i was done painting it.

u/brethalleran · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

This stuff has worked well for me

u/celestiaequestria · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

No.

You need a Grunge Brush and some degreaser and chain wax. A rear stand will make the entire process much easier - I'd recommend getting a Pitbull since unlike calibrated tools like a torque wrench - it's a one time purchase.

An automated system is missing the point, when you're cleaning your chain is also the time to check the chain tension, sprocket wear, clean off the chain guard, see if your front sprocket cover is bogged up with debris, etc

u/ihaveagooddog · 2 pointsr/TeslaModel3

Literally my post from a few days ago lol. I got this per a Redditer’s recommendation.

u/nah_you_good · 2 pointsr/TeslaModel3

Also for piece of mind, the aero wheels themselves are only like $200-250. With new tpm sensors and install it costs a bit more, but the bottom line is the damage isn't bad.

If you want a cheap fix, the "Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.5 oz. " is only $13 and allegedly will cover up some of that. Not sure how it looks if doing more than a small portion though.

u/Frankshungry · 2 pointsr/airbrush

A good clear coat that can be polished is key in my book. I use this stuff on metal signs all the time with acrylics. It's high quality clear coat for small car parts or touchups. Comes out great.

Spray it on generously, If it's at all cloudy or you get orange peal, you can wet sand and polish with a rubbing compound just like you would a car.

I prefer one thick, wet, heavy coat to a misting and second coat. Easiest way I've found to get it even without orange peal. Just be careful of drips with this method.

I haven't painted a helmet since my youth but I sure wish I knew to use auto clear then. I ruined many paint jobs using Krylon and Rustoleum clear coats. They were always foggy and prone to orange peal.

u/itscoldinminnesota · 2 pointsr/Honda
u/DDar · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

May I ask what lacquer thinner you used? Was it the normal model stuff like the Mr. Color stuff, or did you use something harder? Also, what hardener did you use on this?? I have no experience with that particular chemical!

Also, is there a particular reason you mixed it yourself instead of using a spray can like this one?

u/Rilnac · 1 pointr/SubaruForester

I always use an adhesion promoter for plastic parts like bumpers and trim. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-CP199-Adhesion-Promoter-Primer/dp/B0007UAXJQ

u/Djeheuty · 1 pointr/airsoft

To get paint to stick you have to give it a clean surface to stick to. Otherwise it won't be any better than trying to paint dirt on the ground and expecting it to stay. Even brand new guns are usually dirty from the factory they're made in. To clean the gun simply disassemble it and clean each piece with either soap and water or even running alcohol. Also while doing this you can decide what parts you want to paint and what ones to keep unpainted since you want to go for an accented look. It'll make it look a lot more like a finished product than if you were to spray the whole gun assembled.

After cleaning, I would suggest using an adhesion promoter before applying any color. I did this on a springer shotgun about five years ago and it barely has any scratches or chipped paint on it and I have solely used it in CQB until it finally broke this year. Follow the instructions (multiple light coats) and it will help a lot. Same goes for the primary paint itself. Multiple light coats of the color will stick and look better than a couple heavier coats.

u/weatherjack_ · 1 pointr/DIY

I believe those help keep the chair stable. Lightly sand the feet. Clean with alcohol and let dry. Spray with https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-CP199-Adhesion-Promoter-Primer/dp/B0007UAXJQ
Let it dry then paint.

u/tj-tyler · 1 pointr/WranglerTJ

I used SEM Trim Black with great results. I used an adhesion promoter first. 1+ year on the flare looks the same as the day I painted it.

The problem with bed liner is that it's textured - and you have to strip/sand it all of if you end up not liking the textured look. But it's great if you like the look!

u/Thracka951 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

At auto repair shops they have spray-on fabric dye that would work well. Be advised you need to vacuum a few times after and it will probably have a slight transfer to other materials for a little while until fully cured.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00098PO3G

u/UnnecessaryQuoteness · 1 pointr/3Dprinting
u/Cloudslinger · 1 pointr/ender3

Dupli-Color FP101 Gray General... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B6DG7C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This worked very well.

u/walkersm · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Probably this stuff. Most of the reviews say it dries purple.:

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80370-Battery-Protector-Aerosol/dp/B000BOKML2

u/secessus · 1 pointr/vandwellers

Butyl underneath then dicor around the edges is the traditional approach.

If you use painter's tape as a border (maybe .75" away from the edges) you can remove the tape before the sealant sets and avoid the melted wedding cake effect.

u/bkrassn · 1 pointr/vandwellers

Why not use dicor lap sealent?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BRF7QE/

This is what I used on my maxxfan, been through plenty of storms during the last 6 months. No leak from the fan.

u/nottheesecrustycrust · 1 pointr/pcmods

i know little of acrilic but you could probably tint it with the paint people use to tint there tail lights. http://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP999-Nite-Shades-Cover-Translucent/dp/B000CPCRS6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1413900749&sr=8-3&keywords=tail+light+tint

or even use a regular window tint witch is made in veriety of shades and even colors.

u/Sharkbite547 · 1 pointr/Shitty_Car_Mods

VHT Nite-shade
https://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP999-Nite-Shades-Cover-Translucent/dp/B000CPCRS6
It's a spray on tiny that is commonly used to tint tailights. 99% of the time it's done extremely poorly. It is possible he has a vinyl tint sheet over the tail lights but I'd bet its Nite-Shade.

u/MadSciTech · 1 pointr/subaru

I use Nite-Shades spray tint:

http://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP999-Nite-Shades-Cover-Translucent/dp/B000CPCRS6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1344965000&sr=8-3&keywords=nite+shades


I pulled the tail lights out, masked off everything but the reverse lights and applied a couple coats. did the same thing with the wing mirrors only I didn't need to mask them as they come out completely with nothing extra to worry about spraying.

u/Imjur · 1 pointr/Trucks

Its spray tint : http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CPCRS6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419189662&sr=8-1 you can find it at your local autozone.

u/AM_Industiries · 1 pointr/golf

Maybe try some clear spray. VHT has a good formula that should work:

https://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP184-Clear-Wheel-Paint/dp/B000CPIMWQ

u/poblopuablo · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I was told to use this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CPIMWQ?ref_=pe_623860_70668520_dpLink

Plus an etching primer. (But I don't think it would be wise, since etching primer sound alike to will destroy the mirror Finish)

u/BenFett · 1 pointr/Nerf

Vinyl dye just comes in a spray can and you use it exactly the same as normal spray paint. It's for coloring like car seats and stuff like that permanently, but it works great for other plastics too. It's a much stronger form of primer than normal stuff.

Here, I've got a link to the clear coat: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CPIMWQ?pc_redir=1410435739&robot_redir=1

You probably want flat clear coat, that tends to give blasters a plasticy-but still uniform appearance, which I like. I remember one of the auto zones near me had only gloss or semi-gloss for a while, so if that's all you can get, then it's better than nothing. Yep, you put it on over the finished product (make sure you wait a day or two for the paint to fully cure!! Otherwise it'll fade and look awful!) and it'll give it all a very uniform look, while protecting it greatly from damage.

u/srupinski · 1 pointr/Jeep

yeah I've got water inside them before I'm holding off for now since my tires are on their way out. but theres not much mud around here in new jersey mostly just sand.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPAV9I/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01 is where i got the paint, glossy black 2 cans for 5 rims and a couple coats. and 2 cans of clear coat ended up using about 1 1/2 cans.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPIMWQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

u/bedhed · 1 pointr/Welding

Header paint is probably your best solution out of a rattle can.

High temperature powder coats may be an option,

Ceramic coatings work, but they're pricey

Regardless of what you do, I'd fire it before cooking with it to drive off any chemicals.

u/jrod155 · 1 pointr/DIY

if you're doing your rims, i suggest ceramic "header" paint from the auto parts store. I painted my truck rims matte black 10 years ago, the paint still hasn't chipped off. http://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP102-FlameProof-Coating-Black/dp/B000CPJLGM

u/Sir_Me0wCat · 1 pointr/Fixxit
u/durhammmer · 1 pointr/FZ07

It’s not hard, just take your time with it and make it looks pretty. I used 1” wrap, I like the look of a tighter wrap though. And it claims to “increase performance” because your keeping more heat away from the engine, not sure if I buy that or not, I did it for cosmetic purposes tbh lol. I think it looks awesome, here’s a link for the stuff I used :)

Wrap-
Design Engineering 010107 Exhaust Heat Wrap, 1" x 50' Roll - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E267JM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KoGjDb06KEJQT

High temp Silicone paint-
Design Engineering 010301 High-Temperature Silicone Coating Spray - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MY3ML8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LvGjDb07SXQKQ

u/ProbablyLegendary · 1 pointr/Harley

The wrap started black, too, but the paint really deepened the color.

Wrap

Paint

The wheels are both 16"x3.5" (Roland Sands Diesel), and the Coker tires are 16"x5.1". That's why the front tire looks so much "fatter" than stock. So far they've got just under 1000 miles on them. Street performance is great, and the ride is super comfortable. It took a little while to get used to turning, though; the wheels resist the turn a bit more than stock at first, but once you get started they really want to keep going.

Here's my reddit post from when I finished her last year, if you want to know more.

u/taealnar · 1 pointr/nvidia
u/relevant_pet_bug · 1 pointr/buildapc

If you are implying ohio state buckeyes football themed case then have you considered buying a case in those colors? I was bored so went through neweggs mid atx line to see if anything matched those colors and check this out. I found a couple good options. One high end and one budget but still good.

Keep in mind with both of these you are paying more for non standard colors.

Option 1: The high end option. MasterCase H500P Mesh White ATX Mid-Tower Case w/ 2 x 200mm RGB Fans. This case was interesting because the front of the case looks sort of like the Ohio state O in the Ohio state logo. You then set the front fans to red and you have a case in the colors. There are two problems with this case. First the colors are reversed. This can be solved if you are willing to do a bit of case mods. You could use masking tape and red plasti dip around the front to create a red O shape. Then you set the fans to white. The other problem is the price, at 139 this may out of your range. Furthermore, there is a gunmetal grey version, but it is 160. Furthermore, paying 139 and then spraying rubberized coating on requires confidence in your artistic abilities you may not have.

Option 2: The budget but still good option. Fractal Design Focus G Mystic Red ATX Mid Tower. This case already comes in red and comes with white fans. The white fans will likely look somewhat grey through the front of the case. This is one of the best budget cases in the price range, although this red variant will cost $10 more then the normal Focus G. Here is a hyper in depth review for you.. Some cons: This case could really use a third fan in back. Another con is that the case does not have tempered glass and instead uses plexiglass, If you don't care then that's fine. Finally, it is important to note that there nearly every other case people have listed is better then this one. That is not to say this is a bad case, fractal design make good products.



u/madadhalluidh · 1 pointr/Warmachine

Is this the same stuff? I'm leery of the 'fills light scratches' tag line.

https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-EDAP16897-6-PK-Sandable-Primer/dp/B002984MTG?th=1

u/LH99 · 1 pointr/WarhammerUnderworlds

I've went through a few different ones and I like this stuff the best. Goes on thin but not too thin. I used to prime in black, but when you paint a bunch of minis red, orange, or yellow on black primer you'll never want to see it again. Been sticking to white ever since.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002984MTG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/journeymanSF · 1 pointr/videos

The gold will definitely come out in his shit, but if I had to guess, it will be extremely tiny pieces. Gold leaf is around .2 microns thick, so it's going to break up into a billion .2 micron thick little pieces. I suppose you could take all the shit and burn it and melt out the gold leaf. I think it would be fairly challenging to recover any sizable amount.

More importantly, there is very little gold to start with. He says in the video they used about "$350 of gold", but I believe they really meant "$350 worth of gold leaf."

$350 of gold would be a little more than a 1/4 ounce of gold (about 9 grams).


$350 worth of golf leaf, probably means they bought 7 of these, which would be 175 sheets of gold leaf, approx 3" x3". The weight of gold leaf is about 18 grams per 1,000 leaves. So at max, he ate about 3 grams of gold or about $100 of gold. Well... now I'm reconsidering things, $100 is a $100

u/dragnabbit · 1 pointr/VeryExpensive

Major ripoff. You can buy gold leaf on Amazon for half that price (or, more accurately, twice as much for the same price), at $2 each.

If you want to go in bulk, you can buy them for $1.20 each.

u/Deae_Hekate · 1 pointr/interestingasfuck
u/Gullex · 1 pointr/Documentaries
u/pedantic_jackass · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

The same thought occurred to me. I wonder if something like this would work.

u/lowspeed · 1 pointr/AskMechanics
u/ltafuri · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

https://www.amazon.com/3M-03584-Professional-Rubberized-Undercoating/dp/B002H9CMCQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493246997&sr=8-3&keywords=rubberized+paint

Smth like this one, can't remember the exact name but should work. Be sure to scrap the remainings of the old rubber texture and give it some sanding ! Good Luck !

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I'm a big boy now

Congrats! It's exciting when they first start going on their own!!!

would love to have this if I win it's in my manly wishlist.

u/HoodiesUdder · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

That doesn't look too bad. But if you're not going to fix the issue (cut out those metal sections and replace them), since that's in the wheel well area which gets sprayed with water, sand from the road, etc.., I'd apply some undercoating on it to minimize the effects of road spray. 3M has a pretty good rubberized undercoating which I've used a few times (try not to touch it and wear some gloves) : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002H9CMCQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I guess the only issue is that it won't match the silver / gray of the vehicle.

u/ScepKo23 · 1 pointr/customcontrollers

You can buy waterslide paper on amazon. There are two options, clear and white. As for clear coat, it is recommended to use a two part urethane clear. I personally use this for clear coating but be warned it is harmful if you breath in the spray so wear protective masks and spray outside if you can.

https://www.amazon.com/Spray-High-Gloss-Clearcoat-Aerosol/dp/B0043B7UQY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523970255&sr=8-1&keywords=spraymax+2k+clear+coat

u/Your_Brain_On_Pizza · 1 pointr/motorcycles

This is what I used on my repaint. Holding up great so far!

u/red_delicious · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I haven't tried it yet, but from what I can tell, USC Spray Max 2k High Gloss Clearcoat Aerosol is "gasproof"

u/alpoverland · 1 pointr/motorcycles

This guy's right. Scratches will come one faster than you can imagine too. Nice work still, and congrats on the patience.

If you do consider clearing there's this 2k clear in a can, legit stuff. Though you'll need at least three coats and it adds up. If you've got a buddy with a compressor and a spray gun you can put on a lot more coats for less money when buying a tin.

u/maaseyracer · 1 pointr/motorcycles

This is the clear I use. It is awesome spray can, 2 part mix. Gasoline resistant:

http://www.amazon.com/Spray-High-Gloss-Clearcoat-Aerosol/dp/B0043B7UQY

The results are incredible especially with a cut an polish. Great for smaller jobs and those who do not have a spray gun. Pro tip: buy a good mask this stuff is awful.

u/onewheeldrive619 · 1 pointr/CafeRacers

Yeah it's Autozone automotive color in a can and Eastwood 2K epoxy two part clear in a can. https://www.amazon.com/Spray-High-Gloss-Clearcoat-Aerosol/dp/B0043B7UQY To be honest, I didn't do enough prep on my first effort and you could see some imperfections in the tank so I stripped it and started over. With the right amount of primer/filler and careful sanding, I'm amazed how good the finished product looks. A little bike tank and covers is easy. I can't believe people paint whole cars with rattle cans!

u/pet_the_puppy · 1 pointr/Miata

Nope, painted black. Mirrors were finished with SprayMax 2K. Door handles were sprayed black after this photoshoot, actually.

u/rbrandonc · 1 pointr/CafeRacers

https://www.amazon.com/U-S-Chemical-Plastics-4333062164-Spraymax/dp/B0043B7UQY

No, but I used this one. It's a two part epoxy spray, so it's gas proof as well

u/PmMePicsOfCereal · 1 pointr/Miata

Details on the paint:

I bought pre-mixed aerosol cans of basecoat from Automotive Touchup, paint code M8.

Clear coat is USC Spray Max 2k High Gloss Clearcoat purchased through Amazon.

I ended up using 4 cans of base and 2 cans of clear. My technique still needs some work, I ended up spraying too thin and taking more coats than I should have. This lead to some fish eyes which came out pretty well after wet-sanding and polishing. The basecoat color match seems close and I would recommend it, but know that their west coast shipping speed is pretty slow. It took around 2 weeks total from ordering to delivery.

u/Regs2 · 1 pointr/mazda3

This product is recommended as a coating on r\detailing.

u/MSD0 · 1 pointr/pcmods

You can get 2k clear coat in an aerosol can if you don’t have a spray gun. You have to use the contents within 48 hours after it’s been activated, so it’s best to do everything at once. It’s a good idea to wear a respirator (not a dust mask) when spraying.

u/theuautumnwind · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I suspect that this would be superior to the one that chrisfix suggests. I have seen this used to protect restored/candied/tinted taillights.

http://www.amazon.com/Spraymax%C2%AE-Glamour-Gloss-Aerosol-Usc-3680061/dp/B0043B7UQY

u/phataaron · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing
u/SuperiorSoobie · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

More than I remember but about $15 if you buy 6

https://www.amazon.com/Spray-High-Gloss-Clearcoat-Aerosol/dp/B0043B7UQY

u/pandito_flexo · 1 pointr/Lexus

Did you use a separate clearcoat to seal? This is what I ended up using and it's fantastic.

u/superpopcone · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I have clear coat damage on a car that I would like to slow/stop (right now, I'm unable to commit time/effort to a proper sand down + repaint + re-coat).

From watching DIY clear coat repair videos, is it correct for me to assume that I can just go ahead and apply this 2K clear coat aerosol directly over the damaged area to prevent it from getting worse?

As I understand it, future repairs would just require removal of the clear coat anyway. Please let me know if any of the above assumptions are wrong.

u/rsmjr · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Really matters what type of paint you are using. But I'd always wait exactly what it says on the can if not longer. Especially for sanding purposes. For clear coat I'd try to find 2 part clear coat that is activated. That is closer to professional pant then your run of the mill stuff which isn't exactly meant to be on a car and in harsh environments. I have had super good luck with finding good stuff on amazon. Example

It is only good for 48 hours. Though I'd plan the paint to be as fast and soon as possible.

u/AndyJarosz · 1 pointr/metalworking
u/cafeRacr · 1 pointr/bikebuilders

Everyone recommends using this stuff. Supposidly it holds up well vs gasoline. Though it is pretty toxic. You need really good ventilation, filter mask, and make sure you don't have any pets near by. And it's a little pricey.

u/_tanith · 1 pointr/Fixxit

I'm thinking of trying this primer, and something along the lines of this for top coat, and this Spraymax 2k 2 part clear. The clear coat isn't very cheap for an aerosol but I think it will hold up well. Would you recommend still using a white base coat in between the white primer and green top coat?

u/Specken_zee_Doitch · 1 pointr/SoCalRiders

Repeat after me: WD40 is not a lubricant.

Use a chain cleaner and wax like Maxima's offerings. Use as instructed, do it every 500 miles on the dot.

If it's raining, after your ride hose off your bike with a garden hose to get abrasives off the paint and out of the chain, your hose water is much cleaner than rain water and road grime. This will make it less intensive or even unnecessary to clean your bike after a rainfall.

Also, detailers don't like doing bikes. The detailers I've hired that said they'll do bikes are generally rank amateurs and shouldn't be allowed near anyone's bike. Bikes have nooks and crannies unlike those on a car, they have a bunch of parts exposed, they take a lot of time. They take so much time that the detailer has trouble getting enough out of the job to justify.

Get yourself a garden sprayer, a bucket, a pack of microfiber cloths, and a big old jug of auto-soap with wax in it. Clean that noise yourself. If you have an air compressor dry the bike using that as it'll prevent scrating.

Then, get a jug of carnauba wax and clean the shiny bits of your bike. Don't bother applying to matte or powder-coated parts.

/r/AutoDetailing, specifically posts related to motorcycles.

u/suntzutzutzhree · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I got the maxima chain cleaning kit:

https://www.amazon.com/Maxima-70-749203-3PK-Chain-Ultimate-Aerosol/dp/B00FFZU25S/ref=asc_df_B00FFZU25S/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312192374842&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7069594860282740359&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9013883&hvtargid=pla-406164525353&psc=1

Put the cleaner on, let it sit for a minute, scrub it lightly with 3 sided brush then rinse it off. Then put the chain wax on. Seems to work well, the wax solidifies a bit to keep it from being slung off the chain everywhere and the cleaner takes all the road grime off the chain.

u/civiltribe · 1 pointr/MatebookXPro

there's black porcelain enamel, not sure about dark grey for an exact match but may need to look into touch up paints for cars, bigger variety there. I was actually looking for dark grey varieties for my car recently, may be a good way to touch up the scuffs here since the material seems similar but I'm not an expert. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-AFM0360-Exact-Match-Scratch-Touch-Up/dp/B00HE66OK8

u/BigbigTimemachine · 1 pointr/TeslaModel3

Seems like it’s the same one.

Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nc61CbD35T88N

u/eidjcn10 · 1 pointr/teslamotors

This is a common one used by Model 3 owners:

https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-AFM0360-Exact-Match-Scratch-Touch-Up/dp/B00HE66OK8/

I don't think it's exact but fairly close.

u/rreynier · 1 pointr/teslamotors

I wonder which one of these products (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YPsKDb133CFT3) would work well with the stock performance rims on the m3. I have some curb-rash going on that I would like to patch up like this.

u/indolent02 · 1 pointr/teslamotors

For most affordable, I've heard this is a very close color match to the wheels.

u/mlm3 · 1 pointr/TeslaModel3

Assuming aero wheels, as mentioned above, dupli-color is a great match and will hide then rash nicely. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HE66OK8/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

If you want to completely restore, new aero rims are $200 each. You can order through your service center.

u/Flnn · 1 pointr/civic

That blue is nice and bright. You can plastidip paint your wheels, and you can use that for your handles & emblems as well. These are the handles I have, the carbon is matte-ish and the black is glossy. And here's the chrome trim. I have the matte on mine. As far as covering the chrome on the grill, some people have replaced that part with the black variant and some people plastidip spray it.

u/samwilly67 · 1 pointr/Bobbers
u/jpMAGA · 1 pointr/cars
u/BoredMechanic · 1 pointr/Cartalk

If it’s just this one spot, send a clear coat down the entire panel and then re-spray using 2k Clear spray cans. Make sure you don’t sand too deep. If you sand past the paint then you will have to spray paint as well.

Use this good 2K clear coat, not some cheap shit from Walmart

USC Spray Max 2k High Gloss Clearcoat Aerosol (2 PACK) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W2D806Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_d1OGDb0H7JTCS

u/aywwts4 · 1 pointr/Miata

A standard color match aerosol works fine, get gun device for aerosol bottles, will save your thumb and give you cleaner more controlled sprays.

Buy too much paint so you can spray from a nice distance, liberally, and sacrifice all your starts and stops well away from your panel.

The important distinction is with the clearcoat, Buy activated clearcoat, and have more than you think you will need on hand. This stuff has worked wonders https://www.amazon.com/Spray-High-Gloss-Clearcoat-Aerosol/dp/B00W2D806Y (Also easy to find on ebay) avoid the cheap clear like the plague.

Worth it: https://www.amazon.com/3M-07193-Cartridge-Respirator-Assembly/dp/B00079FOK0

u/Ugybug1900 · 1 pointr/Rainbow6

Spray paint. Doesnt matter much on primer and color but hands down the best clear coat is this.

u/balltilifall · 0 pointsr/motorcycles

vht nightshade spray could work. with or without a clear coat it can be sanded/polished with good results. but it's very permanent and could ruin your visor..

u/hd200 · 0 pointsr/scooters

Yes it does. http://www.amazon.com/USC-Spray-Gloss-Clearcoat-Aerosol/dp/B0043B7UQY It's a two part system that you puncture a bladder and shake like hell.

u/Odd_And_Unhelpful · -1 pointsr/Shitty_Car_Mods

While I dont condone the look, this is a spray on lens tint that still allows light to pass through. It will reduce light output slightly, but not at a dangerous level.

u/umamiking · -5 pointsr/TeslaModel3
u/stonecats · -19 pointsr/DIY

thanks for brainstorming this. may try this if no better option;
http://www.amazon.com//dp/B002H9CMCQ
making a fitted cover over this is not an option - too much work.