(Part 2) Best automotive paint & pain supplies according to redditors
We found 616 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive paint & pain supplies. We ranked the 264 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
33. Dupli-Color DE1636 Ceramic Clear Engine Paint - 12 oz.
3 mentions
Flash point: -17 degrees_celsius
well, you could probably do a wrap on it, or use some of that plasti-dip stuff.
actually now that i think about it, that could be what it is. the color seems to match.
http://www.amazon.com/Performix-PLASTI-Mulit-Purpose-Rubber-Coating/dp/B009YZJKH6/ref=sr_1_47?ie=UTF8&qid=1418290580&sr=8-47&keywords=plastidip
VHT is popular for heat/flame resistant paint.
I think proper cure procedure is idle 20 min then cool 20 min, idle 30 min then cool 30 min, then run it normally for 30 min or so (ride it around). You can also bake it in the oven to cure it if the muffler on the bike won't get hot enough.
Some people have very good results with this paint. I think it's very sensitive to prep and application. Have to lightly scuff or sand the surface. Then thoroughly clean with isopropyl alcohol or something to get all the dirt and grime off. Start off with a couple of light coats then start spraying heavier and heavier.
I have not tried this myself but I did order it last week. I removed the mufflers on my bike and I plan on painting the underpipe section.
It's pretty basic really, but I described it below with lots of words. I typically either use Dupli-Color or VHT paints, because they have worked well in the past, I buy whichever matches my color needs.
Standard paint "system" is Primer, Paint and Clear Coat
I start with sanding the part lightly, usually 220 grit sand paper, followed by steel wool (to get all the corners), then cleaning, first soap and water, then greased lightning, then acetone. I wear nitrile gloves while doing the cleaning to avoid putting skin oils on the part. Then I let it dry (usually for an hour, to be sure).
For AR's I typically hook a clothes hanger or other wire through the takedown pin hole to make it easier to hold up and spray it. Personally, I do 5-10 lighter coats to avoid drips (because sanding an AR upper sucks) every 2-3 minutes then I usually wait 2-3 hours (usually watch a movie or go workout) and paint the color. Typically for the color I also do 5-10 light coats every 2-3 minutes instead of following the directions on the can. My rule of thumb is 3-4 coats past the point where no primer is visible. I then let this dry overnight for easier handling.
For baking, I suspend it in the oven while the oven is cool, heat the oven to 400F, hold 400F for 1 hour, then turn the oven off and let it cool with the door closed. I typically suspend AR parts by the takedown holes so it is in the center of the oven and not touching anything. I've done up to 4 parts at a time (2 upper, 2 lower) with no issues.
Take it out once cooled, and then I usually very light buff the surface (800+ grit) and spray on the clear coat. Usually I again do 5-10 coats quickly (again, avoiding drips). No good rule of thumb on the clearcoat other than "does it look completely covered?"
Then I repeat the baking process exactly the same way (400F for 1 hour, plus cooldown time) and I'm done.
Most auto stores have it, However its over priced there.
The yellow glasses really help it stand out.
1 fl Oz. per 5 quarts oil (i just put the whole thing in)
to see it:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NBWCFC/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687742&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000JFHNTM&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=00Q58RG12DHKWS8S16QS
Dye:
Since i use it alot (for customers cars)
http://www.amazon.com/Tracer-Products-TP34000601-Fluorescent-Detection/dp/B000JFHNTM/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1416339375&sr=1-2&keywords=uv+leak+dye
If it's metal of some sort, you can produce a mirror finish by following these steps.
Notes:
Links:
You can but a enamel clear coat to protect it - Before spraying the cover, try and test a small piece before applying the enamel. fyi
http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-DE1636-Ceramic-Clear-Engine/dp/B000GKEXW0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1319598525&sr=8-1
Can be bought at any local Auto store.
DIY Price:
Karambit Knife: $8.69
Stattrack Counter: $10.13
Metal Paint: $14.70
Total Price: $33.52
The lamps were made by two different companies. Their R and D departments worked toward a similar goal in a different way.
Which one is better? Well, generally speaking, I would state that Hella has a better engineered product, whereas a company like PIAA or KC go straight for the "brute force" approach.
Will either work? Light them up, mock them up where you think you want them, and see.
As far as long range vision, light color does matter.
Given that you want to use them in less than ideal weather, I would recommend giving them a shot with a selective yellow tinted lens, using this paint ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000994BUW/?tag=2402507-20 ), or use a selective yellow bulb balloon ( http://store.candlepower.com/clyeba.html ).
For those, like me, who don't build plastic models:
http://www.amazon.com/MM-Empty-Paint-Storage-System/dp/B000BUXYB6/
A magician never reveals his secrets.
...but I'm not a magician, so here goes:
There are actually two different paints behind this look. The first is a metallic coating (for this I used the Rustoleum Bright Reflective Finish), which gives the reflective property. The actual color comes from anodized automotive spray (Duplicolor's popular for this kind of stuff). Combine reflective finish with red anodized paint and boom: red chrome.
TL;DR: combine these for shiny:
https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/specialty-paints/metallic/
https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-EMC200007-Metal-Anodized-Color/dp/B000994BUM
It's almost impossible to remove a sticker after it's been sprayed with clearcoat from a small spraypaint can like this that can easily be carried in a backpack: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00407NK6A/?tag=car-bibles-20
The same for sharpie. Can't ever wipe it away.
Lets hope no one ever does this...
It would be a tragedy...
My husband used this. Go slow and watch for air bubbles. It goes on better and avoids drips if you take the tire off before spraying. Also make sure your rims are clean and dry.
https://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP183-Satin-Black-Wheel/dp/B000CPAV9I
Thanks!
Amazon!
If that is all the actual rust, I dealt with rust spots about that size on my NB. I first used a sanding pen to sand the rust down. Then I applied some OEM Touchup paint. Last thing, I used Langka blob eliminator to form it to the rest of the paint. You can't tell its been touched up from about 10 feet away, any closer than that and you can tell. Better than leaving rust to sit. Here are links for all of those things.
Sanding Pen
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FN8H52/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Blob Eliminator
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0074BMB0U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Micro Brush (Helps with touchup, sometimes)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6D0207/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The best part about the blob eliminator, if you mess it up you can use it to completely remove any touchup paint, and not damage the OEM Paint. The stuff is magical for small touchup spots, work on it until you are happy with the results. Will be much cheaper than 450$
The easiest thing to do is get some touch-up paint from somewhere like Automotive Touchup and fill it in. If you're really ambitious, you can fold a piece of sandpaper (800 - 1000 grit) and lightly sand the rust (be careful not to scratch the surrounding paint -- you ONLY want to sand inside the chip). You won't get all the rust off, but it'll ensure the paint adheres. That step is optional, so don't worry if you can't do it. Next, make sure you clean the surface good with rubbing alcohol or prep solvent before applying paint. I would also recommend getting a more precise applicator to make the job easier. You can also chip off the reaming piece of paint that is raised and fill that in.
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If the chip is deep (which this one looks like it is), then you can apply multiple coats. Just make sure you let the paint dry between coats (the paint should have instructions for how long that'll take). It's not going to look perfect, but it won't be rusty anymore.
​
And finally, you can get some clearcoat to ensure the touch up is shiny like the rest of the car. For your context, most cars are painted in what's called base coat/clear coat. Meaning there's two layers of paint: (1) a bottom layer which is the color -- in this case, the grey (this drys in a matte finish); and, (2) a top layer of clear paint which makes the car shine (this, obviously, dries shiny). The color touch up you get is the base coat and will dry matte, so if you want to match the car's finish, you'll also need the clear.
​
Hope this helps!
I did a base black coating first since the metallizers are supposed to be used on top of coated surfaces. I used this particular color: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYENX1U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kMipybMQK4V7D
I also added the armorall tire shine on top of the plastidipped wheels. Someone on the camaro6 forums recommended it to help increase the life of the coating and ease cleaning.
I didn't take the wheels off the car because I didn't have a good pinch weld jack support....I didn't even take off the lug nuts since we can't rotate the wheels anyway. For protecting my brakes from overspray I cut strips from a plastic painting sheet.
Short of rolling the car into the hardware store to scan, for best results I'd suggest...
https://www.amazon.com/Mopar-Lacquer-Touch-up-Paint-Metallic/dp/B07CH33FDS
Buy something like this. Spread some on a piece of primered scrap steel, have your local paint/hardware store scan that with their fancy color scan tool.
The resulting paint likely won't have the same veneer as the car, since most people don't clear-coat a house. Some metallic elements also might not show up as well, but the hue should be pretty close
Its a good looking color. Hope your paint project comes or looking just as good as the car.
Clean off the engine and put some UV dye into the oil.
That’s pretty extensive.
I was talking simply about this one (or whichever one matches your car’s color, not sure if it’s this): Honda 08703-NH877PAH-A1 Paint Nh877P, 0.44 fl. oz, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NA0OWNM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PSjLAbCN75Y0A
You may need some fine sand paper to soften the edges, but that little pen works quite well in my experience. It’s what the user above was talking about, too.
Personally OP, I would have gone for a higher quality clear coat on top. The red is vivid and nice, but the texture on it looks less than wonderful. I would have used Duplicolor Gloss spray paint from experience.
Unfortunately there's no magic to it. Carefully sand away (2500-3000 grit) the previous poor touch up job (use the sandpaper wrapped around the credit card trick). Make sure you get rid of all the crappy prior job, then clean it up with isopropyl alcohol. Then start laying in the paint, then the clear coat, making sure you keep it as level as possible so you don't have a bubbled up bit of clear. Then if you have the time/patience you can wet sand and polish to really perfect it (that depends on the severity of the chip/scratch if it's worth it)
A tool like this, or this is incredible for touch up, since the brushes that come in most bottles are too big to be useful. This video shows him using that tool, and how useful it is. I can't recommend it enough.
I read an article on this once but cant find it now....
First of all, try to read up on review and find out what acutally works. Don't just buy paint that is marketed as working on hi temp parts. Get the highest temperature rating possible (I found this, and this clear coat. If you really want to go whole hog, you can get primer. Probably not necessary though.
Anyway prepping properly IS SUPER IMPORTANT! Make sure you sand off any rust, and clean with a good degreaser (I like dawn dishsoap, but hey to each their own). If you really want to go all out, sand the entire thing. This is just good paint prep in general though.
When painting, apply multiple coats as thinly as possible (don't let it gob up.) I would do like 4 coats of base, plus 2-3 of clear coat. Make sure and wait a good amount of time for it to dry between coats.
After you are done painting and have the exhaust installed back on (at least a full day after painting), warm it up slowly. So start and run the bike for like a minute, then shut it off for 5. Do this several times, then start increasing the run time. This allow the paint to temper without as much initial stress. After that just ride it, it will bake fully over the next week or so.
If you don't really care about looks or longevity, just get BBQ/grill paint, mask off the areas around the exhaust, and spray that sucker without even taking it off. Should last you at least a year.
I haven't done this yet, but I plan to in the next few months.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XWCTMP2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
^ this stuff is amazing. It's essentially a dye and will not wash off. I used on my faded to shit carbon bits as well as some plastic parts on old car - it's back to black Jesus in a bottle.
It's held up over a year on my bike with 1 application. Think about that
Anthracite Grey plasti-dip with gloss coat for the rims, grill and "skid guard" from amazon
For the fog lamps I used Dupli-color Yellow Metal Cast, also from amazon not sure how I feel about the fog lamps though, the paint made it hazy...I'm going to test it out a bit tonight.
I feel your pain. Bought a P01 from Cajun, had them do all the work i wanted done, waited what seemed like forever for it. First day I had it, I was adjusting and getting frustrated with the new holster I bought for it and inadvertently put the wrong screws into the belt clip. Holster feels comfortable so I shove the pistol in and hear the most sickening scraping sound. Right down to bare metal. I tried this stuff:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HE68ESI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm no painter, and i couldn’t make it look worth a damn, but the color is a pretty good match. Good luck.
Like this one!
That is a fair leak and you should have it repaired, not just for your vehicle's sake, but because you are dumping all that oil onto the ground and letting it seep into the surrounding environment.
If you can't identify where the leak is by eye, get a bottle of UV-reactive tracer dye (like this or equivalent: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JFHNTM/ ) and add it to your oil. After letting it circulate, you should be able to use a UV flashlight at nighttime to identify where the oil is leaking out.
This is matte automotive clear coat- Amazon. It's the only matte 2k clear coat I've found
I mean, you technically could, but you’re likely not going to get good results. If the colour is even slightly different to the rest of the paint, then it won’t blend and you’ll have a visible spray mark on the grill. Avoid wiping overspray as well, that would just smear the paint around and could make things worse. You could possibly put tape around the scratch as thoroughly as you possibly can, and then spray with the tape protecting everything other than the scratch.
I’d personally recommend the dupli colour paint pen method, and I have a solution for helping you find the right colour. All you need to do is find all the spray can paints that dupli-colour makes, and find one with a lid that matches the colour you need. Once you find a paint that will work, read the label for the paint name, and then go find that paint in the pen version. Dupli-colour paints are basically just replica paints for all the automotive manufacturers out there, so I can 100% guarantee they would have a paint pen you could use. You’ll likely need to bring your speaker with you to the store so that you can compare the grill colour to the lids of the spray cans. Hope that makes sense 👍🏼.
Edit: https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-ASF0104-Universal-Exact-Match-Touch-Up/dp/B00HE68ESI
Here you go
I don't know what the heck I looked at. Anyways, is this the kit you're talking about: http://www.amazon.com/3M-90100-Paint-Defender-System/dp/B00CCOBOI4
My parking garage is extremely tight and today I lightly tapped a concrete wall with my front bumper. I thought I barely hit it, but I was horrified to discover it still gouged my paint.
Please tell me this is an easy fix. This is absolutely heartbreaking since I’ve only had the car for a month.
Here is the damage. Dodge Challenger if that helps. https://imgur.com/a/pOAYDfR
Do I just need something like this?
Mopar Lacquer Touch-up Paint (Prep+Paint+Clear) (F8 Green Metallic) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CH33FDS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tTXmDbR81KA0X
i just ordered myself one of these
http://www.amazon.com/MM-Empty-Paint-Storage-System/dp/B000BUXYB6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375157727&sr=8-1&keywords=paint+station
it should be arriving tomorrow, but for $15 its a bargain i must say
https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-ASF0104-Universal-Exact-Match-Touch-Up/dp/B00HE68ESI
tons of touch up pens and touch up paint out there.
I used this for my 2009 Zuma 125 which had very bad faded black plastic. It works wonders.
https://www.amazon.com/Detail-King-Trim-Kote-Black/dp/B00XWCTMP2
https://i.imgur.com/VxXA8Xl.jpg Before
https://i.imgur.com/fKDhUVt.jpg After
There are actually candy and candy like sprays that are primarily used for cars. Think that could work? Or would that kinda paint be to much for gunpla plastic?
examples: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000994BUM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1411884379&sr=8-3&keywords=spray+paint+candy+red
http://www.amazon.com/Candy-Apple-Aerosol-Paint-3-5oz/dp/B003JCRGSA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1411884468&sr=8-2&keywords=spray+paint+candy+red
My 2013 Genesis Coupe has significant chips in the paint. I'd recommend getting a clear bra, or something to protect it.
I just bought the 3M Paint Defender System to hopefully stop further damage.
The color of the blue is blaze blue.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008PO635Y?pc_redir=1411127623&robot_redir=1
Came out a lot different on the case.
Al to of damage to the layer happened during the tape and newspaper removal.
Only actual paint code match I could find. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077T5RKC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bcEBCbNKSEDW2
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ZN1T16/sr=8-11/qid=1370570059/
There ya go. Now see the picture on the can? Do the opposite of that. Now you can make heavy-duty vise grips, tiny little pliers, and all sorts of other tools that are impossible to find for pennies on the dollar. One can should be a lifetime supply. It will most likely dry up before I can use half of it.
I love you so much for this idea right now. buying a carousel as we speak.
EDIT: For anyone that actually wants to buy one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/MM-Empty-Paint-Storage-System/dp/B000BUXYB6/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
Maybe this can help you?
I'm actually going to give it another try I peeled all that dip off..
and ordered some of the graphite pearl metalizer
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYENX1U/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
if you do a couple layers of black plasti dip, and then a couple layers of this it will give you a nice glossy dark gunmetal finish, watch some youtube vids on it they are helpful
I will be doing this to the grill, side trim and rims when I return from vacation.
Amazon?
http://www.amazon.com/Performix-11219-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B008PO635Y/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1409878311&sr=8-6&keywords=plasti+dip
yeah I've got water inside them before I'm holding off for now since my tires are on their way out. but theres not much mud around here in new jersey mostly just sand.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPAV9I/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01 is where i got the paint, glossy black 2 cans for 5 rims and a couple coats. and 2 cans of clear coat ended up using about 1 1/2 cans.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPIMWQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00
Odd, but either automotive or urethane should work, like this duplicolor acrylic laquer
Here they are.
light Bar
Winch
Winch Hook
This might be the bumper on amazon. Not 100% sure. Bumper
4 wheel parts sells the bumper. I would check with them
Red Hook Paint
Fairlead
More truck stuff in under blog
blog
My buddy at work today mentioned using some of [this stuff] (https://www.amazon.com/Tracer-Products-TP34000601-Fluorescent-Detection/dp/B000JFHNTM). They make other brands and cheaper versions etc. It's UV dye that will show up under a black light, it's made for finding these kinds of leaks. He said that it will work much better than soapy water (the soapy water might not work with the fuel system) Pour the dye in the gas tank run the car for a bit and use a blacklight to check out the lines the tank etc.
Huh, you're right. I wonder why? Someone above found a matching paint code https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077T5RKC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bcEBCbNKSEDW2
Dupli-Color Metal Cast
gun
accessories
Go make your dad proud!!
sorry to be a pest one last question, is this the metalizer you used? https://www.amazon.com/Performix-11287-Graphite-Metalizer-Plasti/dp/B00PYENX1U/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1500504533&sr=8-12&keywords=plasti+dip
here ya go
only one review, but i can also vouch that the color match is exact.
A smaller amount. Stuff is probably thicker than what comes out of a can. Good luck.
I did my VC recently. I believe its recommended to use the high temp engine paint. Rustoleum engine enamel works well. I like to top it off with some Duplicolor high temp clear coat.
https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-248932-Automotive-12-Ounce-Degree/dp/B002JG01VQ/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=high+temp+engine+paint&qid=1555428236&s=gateway&sr=8-4
​
https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-EDE163607-Ceramic-Clear-Engine/dp/B000GKEXW0/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=high+temp+engine+paint&qid=1555428172&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Dupli-Color MetalCast Yellow paint works a lot better.
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/lights/light_color/light_color.html
VHT SP115 FlameProof Coating Satin Clear Paint Can - 11 oz. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000CPJLGW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5QsRDb69PXSFK
Plasti-dip.
Performix 075815116024 Yellow Plasti Dip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ZN1T16/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TS-Pyb07KFTT7
I use 2 of these. They arent portable but I always paint at my desk
https://www.amazon.com/MM-Empty-Paint-Storage-System/dp/B000BUXYB6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1481692190&sr=8-4&keywords=hobby+organizer
It fits vallejo and citadel and im sure testors since thats who makes it.
Wrap with cord them give them a Plastidip.
https://www.amazon.com/Performix-11602-6-075815116024-Plasti-Dip/dp/B000ZN1T16/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=Plastidip&qid=1556840061&s=gateway&sr=8-15
Comes in a spray as well.
I put pink plastidip on all of my tools and store them in a Pelican Air with my name on it. I use a padlock for the case lid and a bike lock for the case itself. A lot of times the lock is open, but just the hassle is enough of a deterrent.