Best automotive replacement serpentine belts according to redditors

They make a serpentine belt tool that is made to exactly address the issue you're having.

OEM Tools version

serpentine belt tool.

15-909.... https://www.amazon.com/Mazda-L3BR-15-909-Serpentine-Belt/dp/B00KWEFEVO Mazda... Hmmm what are you up to ben

I had the same belt squeal with my 05, it was solved when I put this belt on.

The work itself isn't difficult and doesn't require service position (just removing the right front wheel and wheel well), but it does require two special tools; the serpentine belt tool and the crankshaft pulley puller (Amazon links are the first I found, not the best prices).

/u/ModMini did a video on it which is mostly what I followed, with a few additions:

• I highly suggest replacing the crankshaft pulley with an ATI Super Damper Pulley; the OEM pulleys are notorious for drying out, cracking, and failing which is what mine did. It's an IF not a WHEN. The ATI pulley is rated for 10 years before requiring servicing according to the label.
  
• The crankshaft pulley bolt is an M12 x 1.75 x 80 bolt I believe, but you'll need a longer M12 bolt to successfully remove the crank pulley. I used an M12 x 1.75 x 100 bolt I picked up at home depot for $3 and it worked perfectly. If you try to use the stock bolt with the pulley puller, you may end up like me where the pulley won't quite make it off the crankshaft before it gets stuck on its own bolt.
  
• I used an angled o-ring pick to remove the front main seal, and replaced it as /u/ModMini suggested. BE CAREFUL not to poke through the front main seal as you could damage the crankshaft and the metal behind the seal. The back of the seal rests against metal, so don't go too crazy with whatever you choose to stick into the seal.
  
• The ATI Super Damper comes with installation instructions. It's a press fit at first, followed by using a supplied bolt to get the pulley most of the way onto the shaft. Then you remove the bolt they give you, and tighten it down fully with a new OEM bolt. To make the press fit easier, they suggest warming the new pulley on a hot plate; just stick it in the oven at 250F for 10 minutes instead. This is hot enough to expand slightly, but not hot enough to burn you through gloves if you're careful about handling it.
  
  
  If you're handy, have the necessary tools and know how to remove and install the belt, this job is easy peasy. If you don't have the proper tools, it won't end well.

Personally? I recommend this: Continental 4060950 Gatorback Poly-V Belt

I've tried looking and forums and what not, and can't find anything conclusive. Could anyone confirm that this is the right belt for the p71?

http://www.amazon.com/Goodyear-4060922-Gatorback-Poly-V-Belts/dp/B000C34KWO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421974120&sr=8-1&keywords=GOODYEAR+4060922&pebp=1421974122034&peasin=B000C34KWO****

According to someone on www.crownvic.net, this is the right one but he has an LX Sport. I can't seem to find anything conclusive to state that the P71 has a different belt.

Yeah that is a decent price for a new tail light. I usually get my parts (ones that aren't for offroading) from Rock Auto, Amazon, Napa, or Advanced Auto Parts. Always google the part store name and "promo code". For example Advanced Auto Parts usually has a 25% or 30% off promo code. RockAuto always has a 5% off promo code floating around.

Here is the link to Rock Auto for 04 Liberty Parts
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,2004,liberty,3.7l+v6,1434760

Some example promo codes
https://www.retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.com

 

Here is the 2003 Factory Service Manual. This will tell you everything down to how tight each bolt should be.

http://colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/2003JeepKJServiceManual.pdf

Here is the 2004 Parts Fiche.

http://colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/04kj_PARTS_FICHE.pdf

03-04 are nearly identical. 2002s have a different transmission. 2005 and up has a different front bumper. I believe 06-07 they introduced traction control. 2002-2012 all have the same engine if it's the v6.

 

For the belt I suggest the brand Gates. I believe Napa carries them, Rock Auto and Amazon does too. The specific part number should be GATES K060863.

https://www.amazon.com/Gates-K060863-Multi-V-Groove-Belt/dp/B000C2WKHC/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1518715101&sr=1-1&keywords=GATES+K060863

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4292&cc=1434760

At Napa they like to rebrand the parts with their logo but it's the same belt from Gates.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBG25060863?interchange=1

I usually run Gates products for things like this, water pump, radiator hoses, etc so I haven't used a Goodyear Gatorback belt but I've heard they are very high quality too.

One thing to keep in mind is depending on the mileage and if it's ever been replaced before the belt tensioner usually needs to be replaced around 100,000-120,000 miles.

This is what the tensioner looks like.
https://www.amazon.com/Gates-39120-Belt-Tensioner/dp/B00A161T3A/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00A161T3A&pd_rd_r=SGFA6N7WMVZ12PFAWGKR&pd_rd_w=fZfSR&pd_rd_wg=K5qYC&psc=1&refRID=SGFA6N7WMVZ12PFAWGKR

It's only held on with the one center bolt in the picture. You can also see how it works a bit better from this picture. If you notice the bottom pulley is on an arm. Inside the middle of the tensioner is a spring that keeps this arm pushed out pushing the pulley into the belt to keep it tight. When you're removing your belt you're just using the wrench for leverage to move this arm. The spring inside them gets weaker over time and eventually will let the belt slip. You'll know if this happens as its a loud squeek. If you go here they have an example of it. http://mycarmakesnoise.com/under-the-car/belts-pulleys/

I have an 09 and I replaced mine with this. It's been perfect, no more squealing.

Yeah I was having trouble finding anything without ac. A few forums I found said this belt works, so I guess I will just have to try it.


https://www.amazon.ca/Dayco-5070825-Serpentine-Belt/dp/B000Q0LWAG

I can imagine there are some that are a pain in the ass. I've got a set of tools designed for doing belts in tight spots, usually on FWD cars with transverse-mounted engines. It works pretty well, it's a thin rod with a few small attachments. I can't remember if I got it at a parts store or a tool truck.

It's kind of like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648451-Serpentine-Belt-Tool/dp/B004KED77A

I'd recommend buying this belt.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WH96YU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's $40, but it's super high quality. I did mine this past summer and this one had several recommendations on tundra talk, it's formerly known as the gatorback belt.
Changing the tensioner would probably be a good idea too, as Mr. BrohamLincon suggested. However I didn't change mine since I knew that sometime in the near future I will be doing my water pump and alternator as preventative maintenance and I'll change the belt tensioner then as well.

That one WILL work, but I always recommend going with OEM parts.

http://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-JK6926-V-Ribbed-Belt/dp/B000QUTQJU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422025679&sr=8-1&keywords=MOTORCRAFT+Part+%23+JK6926&pebp=1422025680274&peasin=B000QUTQJU

There is the Motorcraft one, get that one. While there are differences between the P71 and the LX's and Sports, they all take the same belt, since they use the same engine.

www.rockauto.com has all the correct part numbers for all parts. You can go there and see that Goodyear belt is listed, I just prefer OEM.

its been a few years but luckily i saved most of the build in a text file

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/spe-2429

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1414

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1423

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-m08750vs

http://www.amazon.com/1958-86-Chevy-Small-Valve-Covers/dp/B0032CXGX6

http://www.amazon.com/Holley-12-803BP-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator/dp/B000CMDV84

http://www.amazon.com/Edelbrock-2701-Performer-Intake-Manifold/dp/B00063046Q

http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-9810-Chrome-Breather/dp/B000BWCGA4

x3 http://www.amazon.com/Spectre-Performance-Chrome-Fuel-Fitting/dp/B00062ZDAE/ref=pd_sim_auto_10

http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Color-Analog-Ratio-Monitor/dp/B008P6DOIG

http://www.amazon.com/Thermoid-24088-Fuel-Line-Hose/dp/B000KKHNZU

http://www.amazon.com/Bando-6PK2170-Quality-Serpentine-Belt/dp/B000CB0KJS

http://www.amazon.com/Auto-Meter-20805-Gauge-Single/dp/B000CMH9XW

http://www.skipwhiteperformance.com/detail.aspx?Item=6500-R

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmm-70239/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k1106/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-10105117/overview/make/chevrolet

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-94000

the shorter serpentine belt was needed after i removed the smog pump and not shown is the dart iron eagle heads i got on craigslist for a good deal, not everything in the build is there and some links might be bad though

as far as HP/Torque its in the 270-330HP range judging from racing against other cars in that power range

ACDelco 6K900 Professional V-Ribbed Serpentine Belt or Gates K060900 Multi V-Groove Belt???

ACDelco 6K900 Professional V-Ribbed Serpentine Belt https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000C9QFCQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xNb8CbTFNJXEY

Gates K060900 Multi V-Groove Belt https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000C2WKYK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VIb8CbK7395V5

This is the one I used. https://www.amazon.com/Continental-Elite-4060710-Poly-V-Serpentine/dp/B000C30J06 No ac, power steering.

That's a load of information - thank you so much!

So basically if the mechanic place tells me the serpentine belt needs to be replaced. [I can buy this one you linked] (https://www.amazon.com/Gates-K060863-Multi-V-Groove-Belt/dp/B000C2WKHC/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1518715101&sr=1-1&keywords=GATES+K060863) and put that one on like in the video you sent before?