Best automotive replacement bets according to redditors

We found 81 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive replacement bets. We ranked the 60 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Subcategories:

Automotive replacement serpentine belts
Automotive special drive belts
Automotive replacement timing belts
Automotive replacement timing belt kits
Automotive replacement V belts

Top Reddit comments about Automotive Replacement Belts:

u/DJErikD · 5 pointsr/toolporn
u/basement-thug · 4 pointsr/SubaruForester

Bad idea based on my research the Gates stuff is sub par. I used Amazon to search the OEM subaru part numbers and was able to put together the entire kit of OE parts minus the water pump and gasket. Bought those two items from dealer. Still only ended up in for 600 bucks I think. Radiator, thermostat, all gaskets, all hoses, belt, tensioner, idlers, water pump, etc.... everything OE Subaru. Did the job myself. Runs like a top with 225k miles now still. The Amazon seller is SubaruPartsOnline if you want to compare. I know the water pump and gasket especially I was told by people who know that the Gates stuff is China junk. The OE pump and metal gasket is what will last.

[Timing Kit](Genuine OEM Subaru Timing Belt & TENSIONER KIT Forester Impreza SOHC 2.5 1999-2005 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HP5F700/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZTxRBbWGRSHVG)

[Thermostat Kit](Genuine Subaru Thermostat & Gasket Kit 21200AA072 21236AA010 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DWG0XXM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KVxRBbQ6VH4XC)

u/Lobster70 · 4 pointsr/Miata

Flyin Miata is well-regarded for all the things.

I like Gates for both belt and pump, personally. Amazon sells that brand. Get the belt in a kit that includes the replacement pulleys, gasket, etc. The Gates pump has a cast impeller rather than spot-welded, which some think is the better way to go for a water pump.

BTW, here's a worklist you can use for this job: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1eEStLWP0Vp9YlvqrPNLA67S31Iz0FZd0Q-2waNV_UFg/edit#gid=0 (if you have updates on any of it, let me know!)

u/semiwadcutter · 4 pointsr/CherokeeXJ
u/PreciseTheNoodle · 4 pointsr/needforspeed

15-909.... https://www.amazon.com/Mazda-L3BR-15-909-Serpentine-Belt/dp/B00KWEFEVO Mazda... Hmmm what are you up to ben

u/SgtBaxter · 3 pointsr/ToyotaTundra

The 4.7 is a pretty bulletproof engine, as long as you keep up on the timing belt/water pump services (the pump is right there and you take all the coolant hoses/radiator out so doesn't make sense not to).

I just had mine done on my '07 4.7. Paid $250 for parts/coolant, and the local garage by work charged $480 to install. Get the Aisin TKT-021 kit with water pump and tensioner, and also toss in a thermostat and new serpentine belt too as you take all that out. I would do it, but it's getting cold and it would take me 2 days, where it took them an afternoon.

The only thing I've actually replaced is the alternator, as I think the owners before me left the rubber splash guards go, and the alternator is located low on the engine. It's not impossible to get to, but it's a pain in the ass because it's wedged behind the steering pump. I bought a pull off from a totaled truck with 50K miles on it for $75, as Toyota wants $390 for a reman. Ha, no thanks.

u/Jamin527 · 3 pointsr/4Runner

I used this kit on our 2000.

Aisin TKT-025 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008EEYWYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_Rru.wbTNZ9V2J

u/ihavenopeopleskills · 3 pointsr/subaru

If you don't have record of the last time the coolant was changed, change it. To play it safe I'd use Subaru Super Coolant (blue) with Subaru Cooling System Conditioner (Holts Radweld).

In the event you need to do the head gasket, Speed Academy has an amazing video I used to do mine.

  • Subarus tend to be easy to fix when they break. I have an '09 2.5i SE 5MT and I didn't even have to remove the hood to remove my engine.
  • Make sure whatever brand you use the new gaskets are MLS (multi-layer steel). As they are regarded in the community I used Six-Star Bernie.
  • If I had to do it again I would have used ARP studs to fasten my heads to the block.
  • Machine shop labor is cheap. Take your heads to one to have them professionally-decked.
  • When torquing the head studs into the block, find the Subaru directions (i.e., Mitchell1) and *follow them to the letter*. You're going to be turning them, backing them off, turning them again and whatnot. Just go with it.
  • "As long as ya got it outta there" you can change these things as well:
    • Timing belt & pulleys, thermostat, water pump (Aisin / "eye-shin" sells a reasonably-priced kit)
    • Coolant hoses
    • Spark plugs
    • Engine oil and filter
    • Oil pump
    • STi engine mounts (left, right)
    • *RECOMMENDED* oil pickup (the OEM one tends to crack, starving your engine of oil)
    • *RECOMMENDED* timing belt guide (as the stamped OEM one failed when my engine blew, I replaced it with a Tomei milled one)

      Call me crazy, but when I blew my engine I elected to keep the car. Subaru has engineered a family sedan way better than it has to be for the market and it shows.

      I need to do some digging to find the invoices of parts I purchased; I'll update this reply as I find them.
u/MaIakai · 2 pointsr/3dprinters

The White parts are two nylon/derlin spacers. You can find these at homedepot locally but shouldn't need replacing.

Take it apart, turn the bearing, is it damaged or can you just oil it? If this doesnt fix it then either replace the bearing (long wait time from china) or buy the right size. It's more than likely a 10mm long GT2 smooth pulley

10mm Thick Version
https://www.amazon.com/BALITENSEN-Smooth-Passive-Toothless-Printer/dp/B079DMNDBQ

6mm Thick Version
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071KK6Z8X/

Measure the thickness, and the bore size.

u/Robots_Never_Die · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Pizza

Yeah that is a decent price for a new tail light. I usually get my parts (ones that aren't for offroading) from Rock Auto, Amazon, Napa, or Advanced Auto Parts. Always google the part store name and "promo code". For example Advanced Auto Parts usually has a 25% or 30% off promo code. RockAuto always has a 5% off promo code floating around.

Here is the link to Rock Auto for 04 Liberty Parts
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,2004,liberty,3.7l+v6,1434760

Some example promo codes
https://www.retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.com

 

Here is the 2003 Factory Service Manual. This will tell you everything down to how tight each bolt should be.

http://colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/2003JeepKJServiceManual.pdf

Here is the 2004 Parts Fiche.

http://colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/04kj_PARTS_FICHE.pdf

03-04 are nearly identical. 2002s have a different transmission. 2005 and up has a different front bumper. I believe 06-07 they introduced traction control. 2002-2012 all have the same engine if it's the v6.

 

For the belt I suggest the brand Gates. I believe Napa carries them, Rock Auto and Amazon does too. The specific part number should be GATES K060863.

https://www.amazon.com/Gates-K060863-Multi-V-Groove-Belt/dp/B000C2WKHC/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1518715101&sr=1-1&keywords=GATES+K060863

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4292&cc=1434760

At Napa they like to rebrand the parts with their logo but it's the same belt from Gates.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBG25060863?interchange=1

I usually run Gates products for things like this, water pump, radiator hoses, etc so I haven't used a Goodyear Gatorback belt but I've heard they are very high quality too.

One thing to keep in mind is depending on the mileage and if it's ever been replaced before the belt tensioner usually needs to be replaced around 100,000-120,000 miles.

This is what the tensioner looks like.
https://www.amazon.com/Gates-39120-Belt-Tensioner/dp/B00A161T3A/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00A161T3A&pd_rd_r=SGFA6N7WMVZ12PFAWGKR&pd_rd_w=fZfSR&pd_rd_wg=K5qYC&psc=1&refRID=SGFA6N7WMVZ12PFAWGKR

It's only held on with the one center bolt in the picture. You can also see how it works a bit better from this picture. If you notice the bottom pulley is on an arm. Inside the middle of the tensioner is a spring that keeps this arm pushed out pushing the pulley into the belt to keep it tight. When you're removing your belt you're just using the wrench for leverage to move this arm. The spring inside them gets weaker over time and eventually will let the belt slip. You'll know if this happens as its a loud squeek. If you go here they have an example of it. http://mycarmakesnoise.com/under-the-car/belts-pulleys/

u/JarekLB- · 2 pointsr/IS300

I have used the [aisin](http://www.Aisin.com/ TKT-031 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008EEYWXA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fmY0DbQRSD3CP) kit for 4 cars including my is300, a gs 300, 80 series and 100 series land cruiser. Never had a problem with any one them and they use OE parts

u/diggitywat · 2 pointsr/subaru

My friend and I had limited knowledge of Subaru engines before we dove into my overhaul. We decided it was worth it to pull the engine out. It needed a lot of high mileage maintenance.

Felpro Gasket set $130 - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C2AISU/ref=od_aui_detailpages02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Timing Kit $150 -
http://www.amazon.com/Gates-TCKWP307-Engine-Timing-Water/dp/B003TUCFT2/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_img_z

I also did clutch, flywheel, spark plugs, wires, thermostat, and a few other things I'm probably forgetting. I believe that my costs, including the machine work and refreshing my heads, was around $600-700. Considerable savings over taking it to a shop or dealer.

There are more than enough how-to videos and forum write-ups to keep even a newbie mechanic from loosing his/her mind. Gasket failure rates are insane for these years of Subaru, lots of people have been in your shoes. A quick search of "subaru head gasket" on youtube will bring up tons of stuff. Many videos are of people doing the repairs with the engine still in the car. In my opinion, you "might as well" pull the engine all the way out, since you really only have a few fasteners left. Engine mounts, pitch stop, and the bolts/nuts holding the transmission to the engine.
With the engine out, it just makes the rest of your job a lot easier. And you can stand in your engine bay, and that's fun.

Best of luck!

u/Tubur · 2 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

Do you know how he/she broke it?

Anyways, I found a couple things since I'm not exactly sure what you need:

Tensioner collar

Assembly

u/BlueBoyBobSucksDick · 2 pointsr/subaru

Here's part 1 of meaty's 5 part guide. It covers the DOHC, which is the type of engine you have and slightly more complicated that the SOHC.

As for parts, here's the belt kit you'd need. If you have access to basic tools (wrenches, ratchets) you should be ok. You will need a 22 mm deep impact socket and a breaker bar to get the harmonic balancer pulley off, but you may be able to rent these from a place like AutoZone. Also, you'll need some new coolant since you'll have to drain the old to change out the water pump.

Its not too hard. Just time consuming. Be patient and follow all the steps. This diagram shows you how to line the cam wheels up. Its sucks to do it, but once you do, you're good for another 100,000 miles and you'll save hundreds of dollars doing it yourself.

u/Jesse_Boyer · 2 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NYE26U/ref=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_0

I've never had an issue with Gates parts (I have one of their belts on my 2.7t Audi.) I believe their the OEM source for several manufacturers.

u/pkillian · 2 pointsr/MINI

The work itself isn't difficult and doesn't require service position (just removing the right front wheel and wheel well), but it does require two special tools; the serpentine belt tool and the crankshaft pulley puller (Amazon links are the first I found, not the best prices).

/u/ModMini did a video on it which is mostly what I followed, with a few additions:

  • I highly suggest replacing the crankshaft pulley with an ATI Super Damper Pulley; the OEM pulleys are notorious for drying out, cracking, and failing which is what mine did. It's an IF not a WHEN. The ATI pulley is rated for 10 years before requiring servicing according to the label.
  • The crankshaft pulley bolt is an M12 x 1.75 x 80 bolt I believe, but you'll need a longer M12 bolt to successfully remove the crank pulley. I used an M12 x 1.75 x 100 bolt I picked up at home depot for $3 and it worked perfectly. If you try to use the stock bolt with the pulley puller, you may end up like me where the pulley won't quite make it off the crankshaft before it gets stuck on its own bolt.
  • I used an angled o-ring pick to remove the front main seal, and replaced it as /u/ModMini suggested. BE CAREFUL not to poke through the front main seal as you could damage the crankshaft and the metal behind the seal. The back of the seal rests against metal, so don't go too crazy with whatever you choose to stick into the seal.
  • The ATI Super Damper comes with installation instructions. It's a press fit at first, followed by using a supplied bolt to get the pulley most of the way onto the shaft. Then you remove the bolt they give you, and tighten it down fully with a new OEM bolt. To make the press fit easier, they suggest warming the new pulley on a hot plate; just stick it in the oven at 250F for 10 minutes instead. This is hot enough to expand slightly, but not hot enough to burn you through gloves if you're careful about handling it.


    If you're handy, have the necessary tools and know how to remove and install the belt, this job is easy peasy. If you don't have the proper tools, it won't end well.
u/Pull_Pin_Throw_Away · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

https://www.amazon.com/Gates-91107-Belt-Tension-Tester/dp/B000MUTAGS

This is what I use for my cars timing belt but I'm not sure if it reads low enough for a 3d printer belt. Something similar may exist in a lower tension range as well for accessory belts.

u/abdullahcfix · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice
u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/povertyfinance

I can imagine there are some that are a pain in the ass. I've got a set of tools designed for doing belts in tight spots, usually on FWD cars with transverse-mounted engines. It works pretty well, it's a thin rod with a few small attachments. I can't remember if I got it at a parts store or a tool truck.

It's kind of like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648451-Serpentine-Belt-Tool/dp/B004KED77A

u/ahaseeb · 1 pointr/GXOR

https://www.amazon.com/Aisin-TKT-021-Engine-Timing-Water/dp/B008EEYWKI/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=gx470+timing+belt&qid=1570037449&s=gateway&sr=8-3 - Part for $163 . Labour is shown as $299 but I checked by calling and it was around $450 . So approx $700 . I'll look into what else to change but i'll probably replace few other parts since we're already in there

u/WallyEXPRESS · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Aisin TKT-021 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008EEYWKI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XGYVzb7CZNN5M

u/loadmaster · 1 pointr/Miata

Also is that 1-2K work if you pay a mechanic to do it? I was thinking if I get one without history I'd start with
http://www.amazon.com/Timing-Belt-Mazda-Miata-1994/dp/B003BG1Z5E/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1
and change all fluids while I was at it....

u/robertcope · 1 pointr/Miata
u/enderx475 · 1 pointr/subaru

Sure, here you go: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0033DH9SC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I found amazon has the best price. The Gates kit is extremely popular and comes with a timing belt, hydraulic tensioner, 4 idler pulleys, and a water pump with gaskets. With the exception of the Mishimoto bits, the rest of the maintenance items I listed earlier were Subaru OEM.

I just had one of the Mishimoto hoses spring a leak on me actually :(

u/waynep712222 · 1 pointr/Justrolledintotheshop

i wonder if its a counterfeit ... if it came from a vendor that supplied to amazon.. its really hard to tell.. there are a lot of counterfeit parts out there.. can you read the numbers on the OD of the belt and the casting numbers on the water pump. the gates customer service will ask for that info. and the amazon invoice.

did the amazon supplier identify them as gates rubber company?

this i spotted on the link you provided..
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71mrehsNOfS.pdf

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NYE26U/ref=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_0

best of luck..

u/Arctic_Silver_5 · 1 pointr/Miata

Whoops, it wasn't actually a wrench. I think these two will work

Cheap one

Expensive one

And also from the forum: "The FSM (factory service manual) specifies 110-158 for a used Alt/WP belt"

I'm actually doing this fix today among a few others. Good luck!

u/blackwolf305 · 1 pointr/Miata
u/holt403 · 1 pointr/Miata

Odd, I just looked back to my orders the WP was $28 when I ordered, another $40 or so for the TB+pullied and the gaskets for the camshafts and crankshaft were probably $30 tops all together. [Here's my wp. ](Gates 42134 Water Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C2W91E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sXKXAb7NFEBRH) and [TB](Gates TCK179 Timing Belt Component Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C2YDNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6YKXAbCPXBPEQ)

u/imnotlegolas · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Pizza

That's a load of information - thank you so much!

So basically if the mechanic place tells me the serpentine belt needs to be replaced. [I can buy this one you linked] (https://www.amazon.com/Gates-K060863-Multi-V-Groove-Belt/dp/B000C2WKHC/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1518715101&sr=1-1&keywords=GATES+K060863) and put that one on like in the video you sent before?