(Part 2) Best automotive replacement sway bars & parts according to redditors

Anti-swaybar endlink

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Without rust, it'd look like this https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K750257-Stabilizer-Bar-Link/dp/B00498ZQP8

> I've been hearing some knocking in the rear suspension when I drive over bumps

Rear Sway Bar Links. It's a common problem on Gen 1 and 2, usually getting loose after 70,000 miles. My right side was bent to hell on purchase at 82,000 miles. Floated all over the highway, made some banging noises every time an asymmetric motion happened in the back.

Get a set of Moogs (https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K80867-Stabilizer-Bar-Link/dp/B001CA6L1O/) and swap them out. They're a little beefier and will both not bend/break and stay tight at the recommended torque spec.

Next, I would start with the new battery first before possibly wasting money on a new alternator. A battery can be recharged, so if it is the alternator you'll know a day or two after. Also be sure you don't leave things plugged into the 12V sockets. They actually draw some juice while the car is off, ex.: I leave a phone charger plugged in overnight in the winter and sometimes end up with barely enough (Once or twice not enough) amperage to turn the engine over.

Here's a list of the parts you'll need /u/RebornSpartan . I did pretty much the same thing last year.

Also, if you replace one wheel bearing I'd suggest knocking out the other one while you're at it. That also gives you the chance to check the axle shaft u-joints while you're at it.

2x Timken HA597449 Axle Bearing and Hub Assembly - $150

You will also need a 36mm socket specific for the nut on the axle shaft. I bought this one from Amazon when I ordered the wheel bearings: TEKTON 4936 1/2-Inch Drive by 36 mm Deep Impact Socket, 6-Point - $14.

Something to be aware of (paranoia at its finest) is the possibility that your hub bolts may be rusted all to hell and need replaced. Or in case you want to replace them "just because". You can get them from Quadratec @ $4/ea and you will need a total of 3 for each side. Crown Automotive 34201535 Front Knuckle To Hub Bolt

Here are the Moog part #s for the ZJ tie rod upgrade:
1x Moog DS1312 ZJ Tie Rod End - $54
1x Moog ES3096L XJ/ZJ Tie Rod End - $26

You can generally re-use the adjusting sleeve that's already on the components you're going to replace, but in case you want/need a new adjusting sleeve it's only an additional $15.
1x Moog ES2079S XJ/ZJ Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve - $15

While you're down there mucking about with the steering, you should check the drag link and the track bar as well.

If you need/want to replace the drag link assembly, here are the part #s you'll need. Again, you can generally get away with re-using the adjusting sleeve so that will save you $15 if you do.
1x Moog DS1238 Tie Rod End aka Drag Link - $60
1x Moog ES3096L XJ/ZJ Tie Rod End - $26
1x Moog ES2079S XJ/ZJ Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve - $15

For the track bar:
1x Moog DS1235 XJ Track Bar - $59

Now, on to the sway bar links. If the links themselves are still good, all you need to do is replace the bushings.
2x Moog K3150 Sway Bar Link Repair Kit - $17

If your links are crap (usually the top bolt is rusted all to hell, or people don't want to screw with pressing out the old bushings) you can get two of these kits to just do a straight replacement.
2x Moog K3174 Stabilizer Bar Link Kit - $38

And don't forget to replace the mounting bushings for the sway bar while you're at it, also.
1x Moog K3171 Sway Bar Bushing Kit - $10

No problem bud. I always have time for another Subaru driver. We're a family after all.

Ok, so here's the rundown.

Cobb Tuning Accessport: This is the ECU management tool for your car. With this you can offload telemetry data from the engine computer, and also load on "maps" which adjust the ECU behavior. The "Off the Shelf" or "OTS" maps come in a couple flavors, but you're looking at probably only using the first two. Those are Stage 1 and Stage 2.

Stage 1 is for a car with light, or no power adders, and comes in different versions for what octane fuel you're using. You would be flashing stage 1 until you put a downpipe in your car. Stage 2 is for after you add a downpipe, and increases boost pressure to match your now freer flowing system. You must flash Stage 2 when you add a downpipe. If you don't your boost pressures will get all weird, and things will start to melt/die.

ECU tuning is super important for the WRX, and I would highly recommend buying one of these first. The new (very modern) V3 Accessport is around $650, but you can find older V2 models (which will tune your ECU just as well) for around $300-350. Check out the For Sale forums at NASIOC.

Eibach 7714.320 Sway Kit: This is the sway bar kit I got. I'm totally happy with it so far, despite the fact that it's basically the budget option for this car. Take note of the fact that I have a sedan, while you have a wagon. I have no idea if these will fit the wagon. But as for Eibach sways, I'll recommend them. This kit is $400 with end-links included (the part that connects the bar to the rest of the suspension).

Grimmspeed Pulley: This guy is $110 or so, and the least important of the three. But it's also easy to install, and improves engine response. It's the least noticeable mod that I've done, and frankly, though I like what the change did, I've also been driving this car forever. You might not even notice it.


If you have any more questions, fire away. I've been doing a ton of research over the years. Especially lately, as now I'm finally doing work to my car.

Unless you hear bad things about Mevotech I'd say go for it. However, I have some good news, it looks like there's other aftermarket options if that one doesn't pan out:

https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K750150-Stabilizer-Bar-Link/dp/B003YMJJR6

https://www.amazon.com/BECKARNLEY-101-7903-Stabilizer-Link-Kit/dp/B01DLEIB66

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-45G20728-Professional-Suspension-Stabilizer/dp/B0049C7Q3O

https://www.amazon.com/ProSteer-Sway-Bar-Link-SL822/dp/B00U1L8KSW

I can't speak to how good any of those options are, but Moog is usually a pretty safe bet. That last one looks like it's the same Mevotech option.

They indeed are plastic. Here is a link to some replacements. Moog K750136 Stabilizer Bar Link Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003B2YRJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UIAVDbKXF6YCP

I don't see sway bars mentioned anywhere. Installing the sway bars on my brothers Slash 4x4 Ultimate made a huge difference in traction rolling. Installing just the fronts will reduce traction rolling considerably.

Front or rear?

If it's front, just change the whole endlink. I recently changed mine to moog, so I could have grease fittings.

Moog K80899 Stabilizer Bar Link Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FMXGGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_i3u4CbSN5WT9E

Theoretically they should be wearing the same on both sides. If cash is an issue then only do one side. But the other side usually fails after a few months when you do this.

Your boot deteriorated which means you might have uneven tire wear on that side. In any case after you replace them you should consider rotating your tires and get an alignment.

I don't know what year your xD is. but I prefer greasable Moog rods.
https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K80879-Stabilizer-Bar-Link/dp/B001CA6L6E

More options here
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/scion,2012,xd,1.8l+l4,1503722,suspension,stabilizer+bar+link,7580

Ebay is also a good source to save money

Mine was broken when I got it, replaced it with this. Seems to hold up just fine, minimal noticeable differences between driving with and without it.

ahh thats what Ive heard too. I was also looking at skyjacker (turns out there overpriced chinese junk just like the rest of their products), terraflex and the ORO swayLOC.


http://www.offroadonly.com/catalog.130318/product_info.php?cPath=56&products_id=290


$780!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Your looking to spend just as much with this builder kit:
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/SWAY.html


I seriously miscalculated this project and that is just not going to work. Was also reading about how the first time out with the $$$ ORO unit a guy could not reengage the lever due to mud a debris. Just sounds too complicated even if I wanted to spend 3/4s of a winch on it! This things must be geared towards desert racers where these are an absolute necessity.

I think what I am going to do is buy an ADDCO sway bar $170:


http://www.amazon.com/Addco-516-Sway-Bar-Kit/dp/B000CF9EIM

Note I normally support 4x4 shops on parts like this, but man everyone else has it listed for $40 more!

• end links $26
  http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Synergy-Jeep-TJ-LJ-XJ-Sway-Bar-Relocation-Bracket-Weld-On-p-21291.html
  
  
  and just spring for some JKS links.

here she is so far


List of possible upgrades

a-arm

subframe connector

panhard bar and control arms

springs

> That doesn't sound bad for dealership costs. Just if you want to give it a try, shocks could be $40 each and take you a couple hours to do it. It's a matter of removing one bolt and a nut, removing the old, replacing with the new. A set of sway bar bushings could run you $15 and takes about an hour to replace. Grab yourself a service manual and your still saving yourself some money.

would these be correct parts?
http://www.amazon.com/Prime-Choice-Auto-Parts-Absorber/dp/B00HCF4W28/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1462655997&vehicle=2007-54-679------------1-0&sr=1-3&ymm=2007%3Aford%3Afocus&keywords=rear+shocks

http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-45G1493-Professional-Suspension-Stabilizer/dp/B000NSJ9H4/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1462656263&vehicle=2007-54-679-49--1--5-8001-2174-1-1---1-0&sr=1-4&ymm=2007%3Aford%3Afocus&keywords=front+stabilizer+bar+bushings

Yes they do look like one piece. THis the one you are looking at?:
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Solutions-927-100-Replacement-Sway/dp/B0026M9DZS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506814722&sr=8-1&keywords=2002+buick+century+sway+bar

For clarification this is the crack I think Sophia dad was speaking about: https://i.imgur.com/RBi3YIW.jpg?1
Crack between the yellow arrows

Thanks! Amazingly fast reply man! Okay, so something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Mevotech-MK80879-Stabilizer-Bar-Link/dp/B002E3PT52/ref=pd_aw_sbs_263_1/141-2664584-9781229?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002E3PT52&pd_rd_r=0f267c5f-b213-4d6b-bdaf-11c997c51464&pd_rd_w=Abd4N&pd_rd_wg=AIr1i&pf_rd_p=53e036f8-8d3b-407e-beae-88d349e4fc13&pf_rd_r=TYAKK795RTX17TWS4YZT&psc=1&refRID=TYAKK795RTX17TWS4YZT

Also the other side looks perfect, like it is much newer than this one (no cracks on the boots, etc), should I replace it anyway?

Like this https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K750049-Stabilizer-Bar-Link/dp/B002M2MHHI

https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K90704-Stabilizer-Bar-Link/dp/B000JZKY5W/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539187126&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Sway+bar+link+2002+tacoma&dpPl=1&dpID=41n-yk5DpWL&ref=plSrch




This thing. I heard chrisfix say the name in a video.

For sway control, absolutely. These things aren't like pa's tandem axle car hauler. They are built to be light weight and light on the tongue, 10% of the camper weight, so they blow around everywhere. If you want to go the cheap route just buy the sway control and have the metal tab welded (picture 2) welded to an extended ball mount so it looks something like this but gives you more clearance. It's worth the 100 bucks in safety.

The other option is buy The whole set and install it yourself. It's not difficult and there's youtube videos all over the place. If you do buy a WDH bigger is not better. The leverage involved can do a lot of damage to the tow vehicle or trailer so don't just buy a 12000lb set and hook it to your 3000lb tow light.

These numbers are straight out of my ass because I don't know your cab, axle, 4wd, but here goes. Generic v8 full-size truck payload 1500lb. GCVW 7000. Trailer Max- 7500ish

Single axle trailer up to 4500lb- sway control, no WDH
Tandem axle trailer up to 7500- sway control and WDH

It is this thing: https://www.amazon.com/Qlink-EMF-Protection-Pendant-Design/dp/B000CSPJWY

She also uses tons of essential oils, himalayan salt lamps, basically ANYTHING that has some feel good principals about it keeping you cancer free, etc then she is on board with it because Big Pharma, doctors, etc are evil. She goes to only Naturopathic doctors - which in our state are not legally recognized.

Blows my mind how gullible she is - she will believe the anti-vax guy who had his medical license revoked, but true medical science she says is unbelievable and "fake news" essentially.