(Part 2) Best automotive spark plugs & accessories according to redditors

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We found 219 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive spark plugs & accessories. We ranked the 87 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Subcategories:

Automotive replacement spark plugs
Automotive replacement spark plug tube seals & kits
Automotive replacement spark plug wires

Top Reddit comments about Automotive Replacement Spark Plugs & Wires:

u/drsfmd · 49 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

Those are probably not the original plugs. The orginials were almost certainly the Champion "X" plug-- which were more or less the industry standard, and believe it or not are still avaialble, but cost $20-something 30-something each.

Rentz, Splitdorf, and some of the really wierd plugs with a priming cup and petcock on them, were used to try to increase the amount of spark (to compensate for bad gas) or try to fix some other malady.

Edit: Linked, and learned that the price has gone up quite a bit since I squirrelled away the stockpile that I have.

u/TheLiqourCaptain · 12 pointsr/BMW

50's Kid (Super Awesome): https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCml-eeSLJZ38Q5_sUnUXrZw

Shop Life TV (Pretty effen gewd): https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5jnm5CEnLSEmoQ-ktgAj6g

Well the people in the forums are the people with the problems, but that's not to say they aren't the most knowledgeable group of people about the e46. But the youngest E46 is 12 years old, so unless it's a garage kept car from an old couple, it'll have to be fixed a little soon into your ownership. You'll be advised to do $300,000 in preventative maintenance when on the forums, don't. I love my car but I only paid $3,000 for mine had I done everything the forum members suggested I would've spent another $3,000 in repairs. Keep up on your plugs and coils. If I'm not mistaken the 328s and 325s have transmissions made by GM and no one cares for them, so wait for a 330. I'm sure I'll get corrected on the transmissions but whatevs enjoy the plethora of links.

A Bosche fuel pump from Amazon is $130 and the gasket is $20.

Pump:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZJE9C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gasket:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0054JTTFO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The exact fuel filter $60:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006Q7HDII/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

OEM plugs are $35, again Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DERDU44/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

DISA rebuild kit is $80 (DO THIS ONE ASAP, It's the one thing I always tell people, it'll prevent a steel pin from falling into a cylinder and ruining your engine) I bought mine from G.A.S. German Auto Sport I think. I love their warranty, if my DISA fails they'll give me that $80 towards one of their DISA units, like $400

Coolant system:
Expansion tank - $30 (Amazon) - known as the most likely failure

Radiator -$150 (AutoZone)
Lower radiator hose - $30 (Advance)

Temp sensor in lower hose - $8 (Amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FU9H9PO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Upper radiator hose - $30 (AutoZone)
Water pump - $55 (AutoZone)
Thermostat - $55 (AutoZone)

Transmission intercooler thermostat - $16 (Amazon)

https://www.amazon.com/Orion-Cooler-Expansion-Thermostat-17111437362/dp/B074K8SXL8/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522204403&sr=1-2-fkmr1&keywords=e46+transmission+intercooler+thermostat

I was able to remove the radiator without being about to tell the water pump had an issue. Installed the new radiator, gave my fan a wiggle and then knew I had replaced two hoses, an expansion tank, and a radiator for nothing. Cost: confidence as myself as a mechanic and an engineer and $295 (didn't replace the temp sensor or thermostat, and I was lucky enough to reuse the transmission intercooler thermostat!!!!!!11!1!!11!!)


I paid $90 for a pack of coils 40,000 miles ago. The entire CCV is $55, you guessed it, Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/11617501566-11611432559-11617504535-11157532649-11617504536/dp/B00I3RBDDK/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522204499&sr=1-2&keywords=e46+CCV


One pair of HID headlights - $28
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GRTEMCO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1



For two years of ownership starting at 153,000 miles and currently at 197,000, 8 months of driving 110 miles a day, five days a week, and now I drive 800 miles a week.

The hardest on this list are the fuel filter (unless you have access to a lift, I hate putting my car on stands) and the CCV, to replace the CCV you have to remove the intake manifold.

The DISA takes 10 minutes if you take the time to drink a beer MAKE SURE YOU BUY A KIT THAT INCLUDES A NEW GASKET

If you have problems head to here or the forums, I feel like I've written a book, but I spent forever tracking a couple issues only to find out it was the plugs. Check the plugs first.




Essential tools:

OBD2 WIFI adapter: $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W0SDLRY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Regular socket set: $73

https://www.amazon.com/Kobalt-64-piece-Standard-metric-Mechanics/dp/B00GR8WEDU/ref=sr_1_24?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203667&sr=1-24&keywords=Kobalt+Socket+set

(5mm to 16mm or so, and includes bits you'll really want a wide flathead, Torx 25 or 30 for the cabin air filter mounting screws, and Philips, double check what this one includes)


Torque wrench: $35
https://www.amazon.com/Tacklife-Calibrated-13-6-108-5Nm-Certification-Extension/dp/B073VLDLQR/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203362&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=torque+wrench&psc=1


6”-8" Socket extension: $10
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-4966-8-Inch-Extension-3-Piece/dp/B000NW85F2/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203436&sr=1-6&keywords=8%22+socket+extension


Fan removal tool set - $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTV8EO4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc150=1


Including all tools that's $850 Hope this helps, the car is really easy to work on, I enjoy driving it. One last piece of advice never short trip your car, especially in cold weather, you could fill the CCV with mayo and it could lead to hydrolocking/self destruction of the engine. If you live South of Pennsylvania you shouldn't have to worry too much, some people put an ounce or so of Seafoam into the CCV a month. You don't need to follow these links to the tee but they should help.

u/dondelelcaro · 3 pointsr/aww

> What do you do if you have a shitload of cords everywhere?

Split loom is what we use. [We have a cat that thinks that USB-sized cables are the most tasty thing ever.] It's cheap and with an insertion tool it's easy to put wires inside. You can get it in lots of sizes too, in case you need to bundle many cables together.

u/yeoduq · 3 pointsr/BMW

For sparkplugs, engine air filter, and cabin filter you can DIY for much less if you're inclined, need a torque wrench and the bmw spark plug socket

total: ~130 + tax/shipping if any (amazon prime?)

Takes about an hour to do, maybe 2 if you're not mechanically inclined. These are all done at the same time in the same steps (you have to to remove the cabin air filter housing anyway to get to the spark plugs)

You need a socket wrench and socket for removing the cabin air filter and the torque wrench and the spark plug socket and thats it. Plenty of DIYs online you can just follow

plugs ~34

socket tool ~10

torque wrench ~$30

cabin air filter ~$27

air filter ~28

Rear brakes 277 seems okay, maybe a tiny bit high by a few dollars

u/ihavenopeopleskills · 3 pointsr/subaru

If you don't have record of the last time the coolant was changed, change it. To play it safe I'd use Subaru Super Coolant (blue) with Subaru Cooling System Conditioner (Holts Radweld).

In the event you need to do the head gasket, Speed Academy has an amazing video I used to do mine.

  • Subarus tend to be easy to fix when they break. I have an '09 2.5i SE 5MT and I didn't even have to remove the hood to remove my engine.
  • Make sure whatever brand you use the new gaskets are MLS (multi-layer steel). As they are regarded in the community I used Six-Star Bernie.
  • If I had to do it again I would have used ARP studs to fasten my heads to the block.
  • Machine shop labor is cheap. Take your heads to one to have them professionally-decked.
  • When torquing the head studs into the block, find the Subaru directions (i.e., Mitchell1) and *follow them to the letter*. You're going to be turning them, backing them off, turning them again and whatnot. Just go with it.
  • "As long as ya got it outta there" you can change these things as well:
    • Timing belt & pulleys, thermostat, water pump (Aisin / "eye-shin" sells a reasonably-priced kit)
    • Coolant hoses
    • Spark plugs
    • Engine oil and filter
    • Oil pump
    • STi engine mounts (left, right)
    • *RECOMMENDED* oil pickup (the OEM one tends to crack, starving your engine of oil)
    • *RECOMMENDED* timing belt guide (as the stamped OEM one failed when my engine blew, I replaced it with a Tomei milled one)

      Call me crazy, but when I blew my engine I elected to keep the car. Subaru has engineered a family sedan way better than it has to be for the market and it shows.

      I need to do some digging to find the invoices of parts I purchased; I'll update this reply as I find them.
u/xnoom · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

Hmm, I don't know of any for the BrewPi/PowerSwitch connection specifically. It's pretty straightforward though... each +in/-in on the PowerSwitch connects to one of the connectors on the Spark.

The connecting wires just need to be 18 gauge or so copper wire you might have laying around (speaker wire should work), or something like this if you don't have anything. All you have to do at that point is strip a small amount of the casing from the wire (scissors used carefully will work fine if you don't have wire strippers), and attach it between the two... the Spark connector just needs the wire pushed into it, and the PowerSwitch needs it to be screwed down with a small eyeglass-sized screwdriver.

u/Anklebiter117 · 2 pointsr/RX8
u/MalteseCow · 1 pointr/Cadillac

Done! In case anyone else needs plugs for their CTS4 3.0L, here's the info for NGK plugs (my preferred brand):

NGK 6509, LTR6IX-11, Iridium IX

Gap: .044"

Socket size: 5/8"

Amazon has a slightly better price than RockAuto.

u/qman5303 · 1 pointr/harborfreight
u/RWCheese · 1 pointr/HVAC

Lots of options to replace it. You just need the thread size. (1/2 NPT, 3/8 NPT, 1/4 NPT, 1/8 NPT)

Can't really tell by your picture where it unthreads from. I believe it unscrews right at the rad. So you would have to match that size then get something like this. It's available in all the normal sizes.

u/OmicronianPoppler · 1 pointr/subaru

I got these plugs after reading up about them on Subaruforester.org.
NGK SILZKAR7B11 Laser Iridium Spark Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009MVNSGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ou95AbQY7N2ZS


Found a video on YouTube to get the gist of it but it's pretty straight forward.

Couldn't tell you the size of the socket. It's pretty standard it's just a really tight space to maneuver anything into (without dropping) and I didn't have a tiny ratchet.

u/lando55 · 1 pointr/FZ07

$20 ea is not too bad if labor is included.

Having said that I picked up these last time and installed them myself. This bike is stupid easy to do maintenance on.

u/RadicalGentleman · 1 pointr/cars

No problem! I love to help others as others have helped me a lot in the past, gotta pass the knowledge on :D

I got KYB 348023 Excel-G Gas Shock

Did them myself as it was just, jack up the car, lift up trunk mat, and wrench it off (highly simplifying on my part, but it wasn't bad). I try to do as many things as I possibly can, but since I don't have another car to use while this is out of service or have the tools to do somethings, I try to choose my battles as best as I can.

I used NGK Iridium spark plugs

However, I also noticed they sold a pack of 4 and ACCORDING to Amazon it fits my 08 Civic. These were also pretty straight forward to do, removing the electric power plugs was kind of annoying, but was pretty simple.

I just went to the dealership to buy the transmiossion fluid and coolant as those I heard SHOULD be Honda fluids, but correct me if i'm wrong. I also did those myself as they were like oil changes, pretty straight forward. The brake fluid flush thought required bags and bleeding the system so I bit the bullet and went to Brakes Plus and used a coupon. Got Dot 4 flush for $45, solid deal to me.

Power steering pump had a leak so idk if you would need it. I would go get a multi point inspection to see what you need for things like that. Same with the rear sway bar links (even though this is part of the suspension and is considered wear).

Swar bar links, serpentine belt (forgot to mention this one), and 4 wheel alignment costed me $433 at the dealership after some discounts. I have a Brakes Plus CC (Synchrony Car Care) so anything over $200 I can finance for 0% interest over 6 months as long as I pay in full. Discount tire, my dealership, and SOME garages take it. Comes in handy, especially for tires as Discount Tire (my fave place) has an additional rebate if you use their card (sometimes).

Power steering pump was $200 because of my deductible, but an additional $233 for the hose and labor.(rubber doesn't get included in the warranty because wear). Here I could've argued that the labor overlapped and maybe gotten it cheaper. Just asking doesn't hurt, sometimes they just slap on x% discount if you're nice, timely, and/or come often.

I can't wait for when I get carbon ceramic pads because theyll give off less dust and since I detail my car, its annoying cleaning that brake dust off. The extra stopping power (compared to worn OEM pads) will be nice as well. The next set of tires has me worried because I love the wet and dry traction of my current set, but my wallet doesn't like their lifespan. My next possible worry is the transmission...

u/LBKewee · 1 pointr/FZ09

Until now, I've only used plugs with the clip top. I was unsure what I needed since I haven't pulled the plugs yet and figured it would be best if I had them just in case. Also, the pics shown on the plugs from Amazon had the clip tops in place.

u/skeebies · 1 pointr/Jeep

Thanks for the info. I found this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GLLSJQ/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_hiGktb0AC6980 for the wiring, probably ordering tonight along with plugs.

u/xQcKx · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

I see. Thanks for that information. I kind of just thought that honda's maint codes were usually conservative and would recommend performing certain services early.

The OEM replacement plugs go for $20 a pop.

Can I get another denso plug like this one instead?

As long as it's iridium and compatible to the car, there's no difference since it's iridium also right?

u/hellixor · 1 pointr/Cartalk

I used iridium plugs from champion, but it was missfiring on this cylinder before i changed the plugs, which lead me to believe that this wasn't the issue.

u/Korietsu · 0 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

They're 8 bucks each. They're not that expensive. BMW tries to pull the same shit charging 20 bucks a pop for NGK plugs. I just did a full service for coils/plugs for my 128i and it was $180 total, vs the ~1k quote from BMW and 700 from the Indy shops.

https://www.amazon.com/NGK-Laser-Iridium-Spark-DILKAR6A11/dp/B00IZ3JD70/