Best automotive replacement spark plugs according to redditors
We found 177 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive replacement spark plugs. We ranked the 54 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 177 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive replacement spark plugs. We ranked the 54 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
How to make trigger buttons smooth as butter:
The problem is that there is no grease on the plastic-on-plastic movement of the triggers. I did that for both my controllers (maybe I should have made a video...):
I really wish Ouya would have done that first-hand. It is a very easy thing to fix that would not have cost them much... Hope that helps!
Edit: fixed link
Spark plugs diy: https://youtu.be/-SelzJ5YUTA
Cabin and Air filter diy: https://youtu.be/saf1K5_ne18
Cabin filter you need ($8) :
EPAuto CPJ6X (KD45-61-J6X) Replacement for Mazda Premium Cabin Air Filter includes Activated Carbon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWV2W5M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_D5qhDbW5XVH0V
Air filter you need ($15):
ECOGARD XA6280 Premium Engine Air Filter Fits Mazda 3, CX-5, 6, 3 Sport https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I8IP28G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M6qhDbKWRM26A
Spark plugs you need ($40):
NGK 94124 ILKAR7L11 Laser Iridium Spark Plug, Pack of 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DMFGYRC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_F7qhDbM7RD9W0
50's Kid (Super Awesome): https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCml-eeSLJZ38Q5_sUnUXrZw
Shop Life TV (Pretty effen gewd): https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5jnm5CEnLSEmoQ-ktgAj6g
Well the people in the forums are the people with the problems, but that's not to say they aren't the most knowledgeable group of people about the e46. But the youngest E46 is 12 years old, so unless it's a garage kept car from an old couple, it'll have to be fixed a little soon into your ownership. You'll be advised to do $300,000 in preventative maintenance when on the forums, don't. I love my car but I only paid $3,000 for mine had I done everything the forum members suggested I would've spent another $3,000 in repairs. Keep up on your plugs and coils. If I'm not mistaken the 328s and 325s have transmissions made by GM and no one cares for them, so wait for a 330. I'm sure I'll get corrected on the transmissions but whatevs enjoy the plethora of links.
A Bosche fuel pump from Amazon is $130 and the gasket is $20.
Pump:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZJE9C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Gasket:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0054JTTFO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The exact fuel filter $60:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006Q7HDII/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
OEM plugs are $35, again Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DERDU44/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
DISA rebuild kit is $80 (DO THIS ONE ASAP, It's the one thing I always tell people, it'll prevent a steel pin from falling into a cylinder and ruining your engine) I bought mine from G.A.S. German Auto Sport I think. I love their warranty, if my DISA fails they'll give me that $80 towards one of their DISA units, like $400
Coolant system:
Expansion tank - $30 (Amazon) - known as the most likely failure
Radiator -$150 (AutoZone)
Lower radiator hose - $30 (Advance)
Temp sensor in lower hose - $8 (Amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FU9H9PO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Upper radiator hose - $30 (AutoZone)
Water pump - $55 (AutoZone)
Thermostat - $55 (AutoZone)
Transmission intercooler thermostat - $16 (Amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/Orion-Cooler-Expansion-Thermostat-17111437362/dp/B074K8SXL8/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522204403&sr=1-2-fkmr1&keywords=e46+transmission+intercooler+thermostat
I was able to remove the radiator without being about to tell the water pump had an issue. Installed the new radiator, gave my fan a wiggle and then knew I had replaced two hoses, an expansion tank, and a radiator for nothing. Cost: confidence as myself as a mechanic and an engineer and $295 (didn't replace the temp sensor or thermostat, and I was lucky enough to reuse the transmission intercooler thermostat!!!!!!11!1!!11!!)
I paid $90 for a pack of coils 40,000 miles ago. The entire CCV is $55, you guessed it, Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/11617501566-11611432559-11617504535-11157532649-11617504536/dp/B00I3RBDDK/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522204499&sr=1-2&keywords=e46+CCV
One pair of HID headlights - $28
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GRTEMCO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For two years of ownership starting at 153,000 miles and currently at 197,000, 8 months of driving 110 miles a day, five days a week, and now I drive 800 miles a week.
The hardest on this list are the fuel filter (unless you have access to a lift, I hate putting my car on stands) and the CCV, to replace the CCV you have to remove the intake manifold.
The DISA takes 10 minutes if you take the time to drink a beer MAKE SURE YOU BUY A KIT THAT INCLUDES A NEW GASKET
If you have problems head to here or the forums, I feel like I've written a book, but I spent forever tracking a couple issues only to find out it was the plugs. Check the plugs first.
Essential tools:
OBD2 WIFI adapter: $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W0SDLRY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Regular socket set: $73
https://www.amazon.com/Kobalt-64-piece-Standard-metric-Mechanics/dp/B00GR8WEDU/ref=sr_1_24?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203667&sr=1-24&keywords=Kobalt+Socket+set
(5mm to 16mm or so, and includes bits you'll really want a wide flathead, Torx 25 or 30 for the cabin air filter mounting screws, and Philips, double check what this one includes)
Torque wrench: $35
https://www.amazon.com/Tacklife-Calibrated-13-6-108-5Nm-Certification-Extension/dp/B073VLDLQR/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203362&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=torque+wrench&psc=1
6”-8" Socket extension: $10
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-4966-8-Inch-Extension-3-Piece/dp/B000NW85F2/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203436&sr=1-6&keywords=8%22+socket+extension
Fan removal tool set - $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTV8EO4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc150=1
Including all tools that's $850 Hope this helps, the car is really easy to work on, I enjoy driving it. One last piece of advice never short trip your car, especially in cold weather, you could fill the CCV with mayo and it could lead to hydrolocking/self destruction of the engine. If you live South of Pennsylvania you shouldn't have to worry too much, some people put an ounce or so of Seafoam into the CCV a month. You don't need to follow these links to the tee but they should help.
If you find the space bar rattles too much, buy a tube of this and use a tooth pick to put a bit around the stabilizers. Just did on my wife’s keyboard that looks like a similar keyboard sold by monoprice and it’s almost completely silent.
You've got pretty much everything you need for a solderless build on that list
If you want to save ~$50, you could get your stabilizers and switches elsewhere. Outside of Zeal's offerings, Kailh's BOX Black switches are probably the smoothest unmodded linears on the market, and you can get 70 for $21 from NovelKeys.
They also sell Cherry screw-in stabilizers for $2~3 each, if you don't mind them not being gold-plated. I've never tried Zeal's stabilizers, but imho, clipping, lubing, and bandaid-modding Cherry ones will probably make them feel just as good to your fingers as any more expensive kind would. The only thing you'd probably need to get is dielectric grease, which you'd only need a few drops of per stabilizer.
To quote one of my recent comments about silencing stabilizers:
---
---
I've spent tons of time researching and modding stabilizers and here's the method I use to make them as silent as possible:
---
Let's Build: KBD75 + Zealios 65g (YouTube)
[stabilizer modding starts at 12:11]
---
What you'll need:
---
---
This is what they should sound like:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mMIC1ZQ8Grw
While I’m waiting on my Lumina to come in, I figure I’d do a cheaper, experimental tactile build.
Keyboard: Duck Sidewinder Gray
Stabs: GMK Screw in Stabalizers w/ Walker Mod (no adhesive sticker)
Switches: Holy Razers
Butyl Rubber
Keycaps:
I needed something to scratch my itch while I wait for my Lumina, so I decided to pick up the Duck Sidewinder and screw around with some mods. I have a bunch of halo’s and Outemu Ice V2’s lying around, so I decided to pick up some Greetech switches to mess around with. After lubing them up with Krytox 205, I had a good set of holy razers, and I’m pretty happy with them.
I’ve used butyl rubber to deaden the sound in my keyboards before, but this is the first time using it on the spacebar. I actually like the added weight in the spacebar, and I had no idea if I would or not.
As far as the caps go… Truth be told, I’m not much of a fan, but I was hoping the dark blue would bring out the blue tones in the case, and I think it did pretty well. I’ll keep them on for bit and see if they grow on me. It's just hard to find a good set of caps that are colemak compatible. Currently I'm waiting on these.
I’m pretty excited to have this as my daily driver for awhile :)
Ok, that's just a run-of-the-mill terminal end. Looks like the (old) battery was leaking acidic fumes at the terminal. My suggestion would be: Clean it thouroughly using a small wire brush or sandpaper, put some terminal grease (whatever it is called in the states, this for example) on generously and reconnect it. Turn on the headlights, high beams and some other stuff in your car without the engine and feel whether the connector gets hot. If not, you're golden. If it does, you can replace this with any terminal adapter that is long enough to reach your ground cable, no need to buy a Chevrolet branded one.
Attention: The white stuff on the terminal is probably lead oxide. Highly toxic, do not breathe in the dust, wash your hands after cleaning or preferably wear gloves.
For countryman E6s, we ALWAYS make sure to use the response caps to keep makeup out of the diaphragm. Also, the cables run about $60, as you know. Making sure people are careful with them is our biggest problem here, we burn through cables like candy when we do kids shows.
For especially sweaty actors we like to use dielectric silicone (https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2) to seal the connection between the headset and the cable. Keeps everything nice and waterproof but still conducting.
I have owned a set of 12 E6s for about 8 years now, they very rarely fail on me. But replacement cables are a MUST!
Most grease like the one you have is NOT dielectric - ie it still conducts electricity. So if your PCB comes into contact with the grease while it is touching anything you will have a short. Here's what you need - https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=permatex+dielectric+grease&qid=1567174237&s=automotive&sr=1-1
You can also pick up cheap dielectric grease at any auto store for cheap.
If this doesn't work if you put it on your post-cat O2 sensor, then it's the sensor that's bad. If it does work, chop out the cat because the cunt's fucked and probably clogged enough to get some decent gains. If you have to pass inspection, replace it with a cheap glasspack from Autozone or something, one of the short ones that will fit inside the heat shield, then drive some gravel roads to cover the shiny-ness.
If you end up with a lesser expensive connector, you can also squeeze a glob of dielectric grease into both sides before connecting. It goes a long way to keeping out moisture and keeping the contacts from developing corrosion or any kind of resistive film.
i.e., https://www.amazon.ca/Permatex-81150-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease-33-Ounce/dp/B000AL2RI2/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1543000581&sr=1-1&keywords=dielectric+grease
Any dielectric grease or white grease should do the trick. Plus you can find it in almost any home improvement or auto parts store.
Sure thing! I used this case, this plate, this foam, switches are a combination of this and this, I used genuine Cherry stabilizers from here, lubed the switches with a mix from Mehkee as well, lubed my stabilizers with this, and used this keycap set.
That should just about cover it. :)
If anybody is looking for a cheap and effective cube lubricant you can buy in local stores, dielectric grease is working fantastic for me. I always have some around for working on cars anyway. It's essentially pure silicone (PDMS), safe to use on plastic and rubber etc. A little bit goes a long way.
I believe that board uses costar stabs, which are notorious for having really loud spacebar rattle (actually any kind of modifier key that is longer than 2u). You can try taking off the spacebar to confirm if it is.
If it is costar, then try taking the wire out and using dielectric grease to dampen the rattle. Just dip the ends of the wire into the grease.
You can get rid of some of the pinging with some dielectric grease like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MVkeAbRDF5CCV
Would recommend getting a GK61 from banggood, either with a plastic or aluminium case: https://www.banggood.com/Geek-Customized-GK61-Hot-Swappable-60-RGB-Keyboard-Customized-Kit-PCB-Mounting-Plate-Case-p-1389481.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN (plastic ver.)
You could probably use any MX stem keycaps, but if you don't have any laying at home, I'd personally buy these: https://www.banggood.com/61-Key-ANSI-Layout-OEM-Profile-PBT-Thick-Keycaps-for-GH60-60-Mechanical-Keyboard-p-1163283.html?rmmds=detail-top-buytogether-auto&cur_warehouse=UK
Then a switch of your choice; for your budget, I'd recommend these switches:
For tactile, MX Browns
For linear, MX Reds, MX Blacks
For clicky: MX Blues, Kailh Box Navy, Jade
Now, to get the best bang for your buck and a great typing experience from your keyboard, I'd recommend lubing your switches and clipping and lubing your stabs.
If you want to know how to lube your switches and mod your stabilizers, I'd recommend watching these videos from a guy named TaehaTypes, an experienced custom keyboard builder: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cD5Zj-ZgMLA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qSgPKPoFo2k
If you would want to lube your switches and mod your stabs, you'd probably want to buy lube, dielectric grease and teflon grease.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL2RI2/ref=twister_B06ZXR55WD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
There are many lube options, but I recommend this one for a beginner like you: https://switchmod.net/products/tribosys-3204, or if you believe you are able to apply lube consistently and are using linear switches, you could buy this one: https://switchmod.net/products/krytox-gpl-205-grade-0
I think that's about all, if you have any more questions, feel free to ask me!
I'm no expert, but I think some people use dielectric grease, like this
This is widely recommended and available in almost every auto parts store
For sparkplugs, engine air filter, and cabin filter you can DIY for much less if you're inclined, need a torque wrench and the bmw spark plug socket
total: ~130 + tax/shipping if any (amazon prime?)
Takes about an hour to do, maybe 2 if you're not mechanically inclined. These are all done at the same time in the same steps (you have to to remove the cabin air filter housing anyway to get to the spark plugs)
You need a socket wrench and socket for removing the cabin air filter and the torque wrench and the spark plug socket and thats it. Plenty of DIYs online you can just follow
plugs ~34
socket tool ~10
torque wrench ~$30
cabin air filter ~$27
air filter ~28
Rear brakes 277 seems okay, maybe a tiny bit high by a few dollars
Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-dtxzbXZT665N
This makes a really good super thick lube for stabs, you'll just wanna brush the wire, stem, the part the stem rubs against and the part the wire clips into. Clip the stabilizers while you're at it too and only use authentic cherry pcb mount stabs. Don't use dielectric grease for anything other than stabs, super thick
If you don't have record of the last time the coolant was changed, change it. To play it safe I'd use Subaru Super Coolant (blue) with Subaru Cooling System Conditioner (Holts Radweld).
In the event you need to do the head gasket, Speed Academy has an amazing video I used to do mine.
Call me crazy, but when I blew my engine I elected to keep the car. Subaru has engineered a family sedan way better than it has to be for the market and it shows.
I need to do some digging to find the invoices of parts I purchased; I'll update this reply as I find them.
Baking soda + water are great for clean dirty car battery terminals.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable.
Make a slightly watery mixture of baking soda and water (filtered or distilled is recommend), and carefully pour the mixture onto the battery terminals; Be careful not to let the water touch both terminals.
Using an old toothbrush or wire brush, scrub the corrosion off the terminals, then rinse with filtered or distilled water.
With your terminals nice and clean, repeat the process on your battery cable connectors (it might be easier to soak the connectors in a baking soda solution instead of trying to pour it).
apply either battery terminal protector, Dielectric Grease, or a thin layer of [protroleum jelly] (http://www.amazon.com/Vaseline-100%25-Petroleum-Jelly-Ounce/dp/B007E62538/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1374477009&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=petroleum+jelly) to the terminals of the battery.
Reconnect your positive terminal, then reconnect your negative terminal and you're all set!
Sorry for the potato quality, but this was my very first build and it was an enjoyable experience! Although lubing the switches was painful without a special tool and I had to use a small flat head screw driver, I would rate the experience as a 5/7 would build again.
The build:
Case: TOFU acrylic frosted 60% case
Plate: CNC'D ALUMINUM PLATE - blue color
PCB: 1UP RGB 60% (Hot Swap Edition)
Stabilizers: PCB stabilizers black color - 2U*4 6.25U*1 (lubed with Permatex 81150 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease)
Switches: *68 - gateron black (lubed with Krytox 205)
Keycaps: Black 108 Key Cherry Profile PBT Double Shot Side-lit
I am very pleased with how it turned out and already thinking about what to build next lol
Yeah! I’m running Manic stage 2 now so the sparks i got were the NGK1422
NGK (1422) ILKR8E6 Spark Plug - Pack of 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BPUAYTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_x9pHAbMAJ9VBD
Thanks for answering my questions. I guess I need to order 20 more Zilent switches since that's the minimum order.
> Krytox 106
I'm only able to find a bottle on Amazon for $235 bucks. Can you link somewhere that has a smaller amount?
> dielectric grease
Is this the correct product?
In the Nathan Kim stabilizer lube video he uses Permatex 22058 Dielectric grease for Metal on Plastic scenario. I read somewhere on Reddit someone said that he since switched to using Kyrtox 205 in the the whole stabilizer tho.
I found some Permatex 22058 on Amazon UK. Not sure if that's expensive, I think it's roughly how much I paid in US. I do put some Krytox or Tribosys on the plastic on plastic parts tho.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/
This is good for stabs (not switches) and is usually at places like AutoZone if you want to get it locally and not order online. https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2
This stuff does work but makes dries out rather easily.
I'd push you down the way of this.
Dielectric Grease|Permatex 22058: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2
This is what you should be using as it's meant for electronic purposes. Not all multi-purpose greases are going to work well with switches and it really wouldn't be worth the risk.
These coils and these plugs are the ones I used after reading a bunch on the VWVortex and Mark6GTI messageboards. You may also want to get your intake cleaned (before you change the plugs) if you haven't already.
I lubed my stabs with this, super cheap and it pretty much made my stabs silent.
EDIT: Ripster tested it in his guide so it must be good
https://www.amazon.com/NGK-Laser-Iridium-Racing-Spark/dp/B008A2FOJC#
These have always been recommended to me
It is a non conductive grease that prevent rust, oxidation, dirt, and corrosion. "Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease protects electrical connections and wiring from salt, dirt and corrosion. " this is the one I use https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=dielectric+grease&qid=1572880722&sprefix=diele&sr=8-3 Scotty Kilmer also uses it https://youtu.be/zhl3bLzgq9A . I use it it for the headlights, turn signal, side markers, fog lights, I also use it on the dome map lights, and I put it on 1 fuse blade, and I put some on the battery terminal. I do recommend getting disposable gloves. I wear XL winter gloves. But the disposable is smaller. Read the reviews first. People might might say get one size higher. So next time I will get XXL gloves.
6 New NGK Iridium IX Spark Plugs LFR5AIX-11 # 4469 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00330AMYS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
These are the ones I bought
My battery and terminals just looked like that and cleaned it up last weekend.
Take the battery off and use hot water to clean most of the battery up.
Used hot water on my terminals as well.
After that i used a hot water/baking soda mix to neutralize the acid.
Bought a few things off amazon as well:
https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W147C-Terminal-Cleaning/dp/B004BTV82U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520547692&sr=8-3&keywords=battery+terminal+cleaner
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1520547711&sr=1-4&keywords=dielectric+grease
The dielectric grease should help it from getting moisture and corrosion on it again.
I would put some dielectric grease on all the connectors, it's fast and cheap. It's possible you just have bad connection from grim on them or corrosion over time and the new bulbs touching the contacts on a bit different part. That bad connection could have also made them fail prematurely too.
Can usually find at automotive places for a few bucks. Not sure why so expensive on amazon.ca....
https://www.amazon.ca/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2
Not that aerosol can. Get that little .33 oz tube with the handy dispensing nozzle.
If you want to splurge get the lifetimex10 tube.
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2
Previous must have r/MechanicalKeyboard toolkit items:
ITEM #3 - clean your dirty keys with denture tabs:
http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/wtvy2/the_mechanical_keyboard_modder_kit_item_3_denture/
ITEM #2: Contact Cleaner for that inevitable liquid spill:
http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/wra4r/the_mechanical_keyboard_modder_toolkit_part_two/
ITEM #1: A key puller for cleaning and putting some spiffy new keys on your new keyboard:
http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/wr9uy/the_mechanical_keyboard_modder_toolkit_part_one/
sure...here you go. finish line comes in the syringe, which makes it easy to apply some to the stabilizer housing so you can brush it. taeha types does a good video using this grease combo.
finish line - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002L5UL92/
permatex - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/
Amazon has them, pack of 8 for $102 shipped. Next day delivery if you are a Prime member.
https://smile.amazon.com/Champion-Double-Platinum-Power-Spark/dp/B00IEAAX3W/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=7989+champion+spark+plug&qid=1574037847&sprefix=7989&sr=8-3
Yup, just did mine no problem a couple weeks ago no check engine light.
I bought the vibrant header from redline360 online. The vibrant header comes with an o2 sensor relocation kit.
My corksport exhaust had a bung ready to go for the o2 sensor (just past the second cat. I actually put a vibrant ultra quiet resonator where that second cat used to be).
I bought this anti fouler off amazon. Then I followed these instructions.
End result: BAM no check engine light, it's a little bit louder than with just the corksport exhaust. But it is very worth it.
Edit: To clairfy all the anti fouler does is take the 2nd o2 sensor an inch further away from the exhaust. Thus it reads less pollutants than #1 o2 sensor and tricks the car into thinking the cat is working.
Also disclaimer, this is all for an '04 2.3L
All the oem v6 plugs are champion.
https://www.amazon.com/Dodge-Charger-Promaster-Wrangler-Spark/dp/B01C7TYJW6
Update: After much research and unfruitful trips to Lowes and Walmart, I finally found the right grease. Pure silicone grease but under the name dielectric grease, and at a great price ($5 for 3oz.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL8VD2/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just put these in my 2015 XT. Same number/code printed on the ceramic part that was on the factory plugs that came out of the car.
​
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DMFGK2G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm not sure where you landed with this but it really sounds like wires and plugs to me. Low RPM stumble, loss of power, and if you keep the RPMs way up it's a little better? That's likely wires and plugs.
Get four of these plugs and a set of these wires and swap them in. Then report back here.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002L5UL92/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For plastic on plastic ^
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL8VD2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For plastic on metal ^
The Permatex isn't a bike lube, but it's fantastic.
I made the same mistake as you in the past. The oil works ok for the plastic-plastic contacts of the stabilizers though. But for lubing the bar, a thicker dialetric grease is ideal
The superlube dialetric grease you linked is probably fine. This is the exact one I use though, as recommended by Nathan Kim https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL8VD2
Nothing wrong quality wise with Denso, but the NGK laser platinums are OEM. I would not bother with anything else. Aren't plugs 60k mi for 2.0s?
The gap is .032 , about $10 on amazon for the correct ones.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007WR66QQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1452208552&sr=8-1&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=NGK+spark+plugs+gti#
Replace coils with the Audi r8 ones if you're having issues, other wise just leave it.
[Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/)
Just use https://www.amazon.fr/Permatex-81150-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL2RI2/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1518366744&sr=8-8&keywords=permatex
I use permatex on my stabs, works like a charm
Extreme Fluoro used to be recommended, but people found out that it's shit and dries after a few weeks
I can't find Super Lube easily in my area, so I am wondering if this one might be used instead:
https://www.amazon.fr/Tri-Flow-TF23004-Clear-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000C15MUU/ref=sr_1_1?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1518365758&sr=8-1&keywords=synthetic+grease
edit: Maybe this one would be good too? https://www.amazon.fr/Finish-Line-Extreme-Fluoro-Huile/dp/B002L5UL92/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518366940&sr=8-1&keywords=finish+line+extreme
edit 2: Or this one? https://www.amazon.fr/Permatex-81150-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL2RI2/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1518366744&sr=8-8&keywords=permatex
Argh. I am lost in sea of information about mech keyboards (aka, /r/mechanicalkeyboards Wiki ;)
Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ld8kDbQ54DWYW
If your downstream o2 sensor is matching the data your upstream sensor is reading, the computer thinks that the catalyst is not doing its job. You need to remove the downstream sensor from the raw exhaust stream. You can do this by purchasing a set of Spark plug non foulers. You then drill one out so your o2 sensor will fit inside. Then you screw the second non fouler onto the end of the first one, and reinstall into the exhaust pipe. Should look similar to this. Pull your negative battery cable before starting, and the CEL should not come back.
I'd just get it on amazon, http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/
Would something like this work?
Also what about dielectric silicone grease?
Done! In case anyone else needs plugs for their CTS4 3.0L, here's the info for NGK plugs (my preferred brand):
NGK 6509, LTR6IX-11, Iridium IX
Gap: .044"
Socket size: 5/8"
Amazon has a slightly better price than RockAuto.
Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease Tube was a suggestion I got from a YouTuber and it works really well so far. A bit expensive but you don't use a lot so lasts forever.
Canada: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000AL8VD2/?coliid=I1N71VWMGGSOXK&colid=J58MB1DVXYQQ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
US: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL8VD2?pf_rd_p=2d1ab404-3b11-4c97-b3db-48081e145e35&pf_rd_r=EVNQKENT60XP5CXEPJJ7
​
Also for plastic on plastic lube (the stems of the stabilizers, do not use inside of switches) this: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002L5UL92/?coliid=I3VPHHQD2B8350&colid=J58MB1DVXYQQ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
I modified mine by taking out the magnet the first day I got it (and yes it does void the warranty).
I ordered this lube to modify it as well as some other peripherals, but it isn't that expensive (considering the cost of the trackball).
I definitely would recommend the modification and lubrication of the device, it made the trackball feel like it costs, rather than feel like a $50 toy.
Edit: I didn't just use the dri film above as lubricant. I also used some permatex grease I had lying around to make it seem like a heavier scroll wheel, rather than a light plastic one.
I wish people knew what that was for.
Noalox is for aluminum. That is what the "al" stands for. No - aluminum - oxidation.
It will do very little for your copper mod.
Please use some dielectric grease. It is nonconductive and will provide extremely great protection and thread things nicely.
Any auto parts store will have it, or you can just get a small tube online, like so:
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81150-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL2RI2/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1409019211&sr=1-2&keywords=dielectric+grease
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/
Try local at auto parts stores. The other favorite is Super Lube 21030 but people on discord have been grumbling about it drying out, saying use 92003 or Krytox 205. I personally don't have much experience with lubing stabilizers.
would this lube be fine for lubing cherry stabs? or finish line?
For connectors that are constantly exposed to moisture, this product can help. Especially headlight connectors, dissipates heat real well.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_c_knoYAbDWZFBE3
Ok in your case go buy this.
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2
Put a dab of it in each spark plug wire side. Or where the coil boot goes onto the spark plug if you have coil on plug instead of a coil and spark plug wires.
While each plug is exposed, pull it and check the spark plug gap. I don't know your vehicle but you can guickly Google what the gap should be. Adjust to that if it's way larger. If it's smaller like ". 035 like how most are sent from the factory. Don't worry and reinstall them.
This is all step one before you move on to vacuum leaks.
These are what I’ve used last time and will use next time. Can’t argue with the price for a direct replacement OEM part
(English isn't my first language so i'm sorry if there are some errors)
I just bough a poker 3 and the spacebar is squeaky as hell, so I was about to buy this, but I've read that it will crumble in a month or so and my only other option is this one, but I don't know if it can be used on stabilizers,so which one should i buy?
These:
https://smile.amazon.com/ARES-70005-Professional-Ratcheting-Weather-Proof/dp/B017JX8W2I/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1538277875&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ratcheting+crimping+tool&dpPl=1&dpID=315gd2LzbfL&ref=plSrch
And these:
https://smile.amazon.com/Connectors-Sopoby-Assorted-Insulated-Terminals/dp/B01F07UMNW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1538278026&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=shrink+bullet+connector&psc=1
And this:
https://smile.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538278142&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dielectric+grease&dpPl=1&dpID=51w6o8oSdeL&ref=plSrch
P0420 is for emissions failure and usually a catalytic converter problem. The first thing I would try is to replace the rear O2 sensor. These can be had for about $50 on Amazon or RockAuto. Reset the ECU by removing the negative lead on the battery and holding the brake pedal down for 30 seconds. Reattach the negative lead and drive it for a few days to see if it comes back. If it doesnt, your golden. If it does it could be the Cat. If you are strapped for cash and cant really afford a new cat at the moment, there is a trick you can do by using two sparkplug non-foulers to pull the O2 sensor out of direct airflow in the exhaust.
Here is a LINK to the non-foulers i used when my Subaru gave me this code. There is a review on the link that shows what someone did to make this work.
If all else fails you will most likely need a new Cat.
Amazon
I use dielectric grease it was recommended in my owners manual of my car. I wipe it on the rubber molding that is either on the door or the door frame. Apply a fine coat with a rag, removing any excess.
I used Permatex's Dielectric Grease (Amazon link). That's way more than I'll need (smaller amount here).
Here's /u/ripster55 's [guide on Keyboard Lubes] (http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/1dzvs9/keyboard_lube_science/) if you have any questions. I used this when I first lubed mine.
Questions about liner material and lube...
For liner material, what acoustic differences am I going to find between: neoprene, sorborthane, and rather generic looking "foam" rolls? They're all pretty much the same thickness, about 2-3 mm.
For lube, I'm looking at: Permatex dielectric grease, krytox 205 grade 2, trybosis 3204 and trybosis 3203. What would be good for stabs, what would be good for linears, and what would be good for tactiles? And if possible, is there anything that's a good "all-arounder"? Aka, something that could easily work for both stabs and switches.
I believe I found the OEM plugs here. How big is the difference between these and other plugs, like maybe these? Especially since at this time, there are only three available.
And I don't think I'm anywhere near knowledgeable to do that. My family lacks a lot of important tools.
This is just extra info as I don't know where the arcing is coming from: I've read in an old forum post that if the anode cap isn't secured for whatever reason there can be arcing. When I reattached the last cap I used a bead of this grease underneath for a good seal:
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538606002&sr=8-1&keywords=dielectric+tune-up+grease&dpID=51w6o8oSdeL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
There has been a lot of good advice. One I can offer is, disconnect the battery, open the fuse panel, and spray QD electronic cleaner in there. https://www.amazon.com/CRC-5103-Quick-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000BXOGNI
If the carpet got soaked and the foot wells are wet, you may want to think about pulling the seats and the carpet out and letting it dry, as anyplace that water pools may lead to rust at worst, or a moldy smell eventually.
Any exposed electrical connection can be given a quick covering of di-electric grease after they are cleaned: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1497446596&sr=1-1&keywords=di-electric+grease
Any metal on metal contact areas that got wet, such as hinges, seat sliders, etc hit with some WD-40 to displace water and prevent rust.
Pull the horn fuse for now to stop it from sounding all the time. The headliner removal is a bitch, since you need to remove all the pillar trim, which may mean removing seat belt shoulder bolts, which normally requires a big torx socket bit. If it is a hot dry day, unplug the battery and leave your car fully open (all doors, hatch) all day. It will really help drying it out.
Would this product work?
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B000AL2RI2/
The small rubber of dielectric grease, €6 and change
This stuff. Apply a thin coating to all areas of friction. Enjoy in good health.
I've seen ripster link to this lube in the past. Might want to check that out.
I got a tube of this from Amazon (it's a ton). Not sure if it's the best out there but its dielectric and the price is right.
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-42009-Spark-Plug-Non-Fouler/dp/B000CO91FY
I'm running this with my catless downpipe. I have a tune but have them leaving the o2 sensors on so i can pass emissions. I have no issues with check engine lights or anything and have been running it like this for about a year now. For the visual inspections i think you should be good since the location of the cat is high up and behind a cross bar it is not an easy one to see from under the vehicle.
One thing to be aware of is the smell, it will smell like exhaust in the cabin every once and awhile. Nothing that is dangerous just something to be aware of.
For stabs (stab housing/stem) your best bet is krytox 205, you can get a half oz tube for 20 bucks on amazon.. That is going to yield better results, trust me..
205 is also amazing on linears.. I wouldnt use anything less or any other brand, especially a 'custom mix' that has oil mixed in...oil doesnt last as long.. you want grease because it doesnt have the fluidity of oil, lasts much longer..
https://www.amazon.com/Chemours-Krytox-Grease-Pure-PFPE/dp/B00MWLDALQ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=krytox+205&qid=1555994639&s=gateway&sr=8-3
For tactiles/clicky 202-204 depending on spring weight
https://www.amazon.com/Krytox-Grease-Pure-PFPE-PTFE/dp/B00MWLDCKA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=krytox+204&qid=1555994880&s=gateway&sr=8-3
For the stab bar inserts
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-6PK-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=permatex&qid=1555994695&s=gateway&sr=8-9&th=1
Dielectric Grease
dielectric grease
> Dielectric grease
Thanks, would this product be fine?
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1519918530&sr=1-4&keywords=Dielectric+grease
Does it look like this? http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-42002-Spark-Plug-Non-Fouler/dp/B0002JMS6I/ref=pd_sim_263_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=31F4GM8S3WL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1M5AWSS776KA66FJ8FDD
> http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-42002-Spark-Plug-Non-Fouler/dp/B0002JMS6I/ref=pd_sim_263_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=31F4GM8S3WL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1M5AWSS776KA66FJ8FDD
I think that's right, yes.
When I got my old outback I went out and played in the mud and whenever I went through a big puddle the engine would miss a beat every once and a while for a minute or two. So I went through the entire engine and put dielectric grease in all the electrical plugs and that solved my problem. Maybe something to try
Yeah I've got some stab lube I've been using that seems alright. It's a small grey tube I got from Amazon. Might be called permatex?
Edit: I think it's this stuff
Sorry this comment is so long haha. I could go on for hours about these stupid switches.
I mean, I have some SKBM White Alps(these are slit-less, like your damped whites) that still feel wonderful(a far cry from SKCM Whites, but still), and were very clean. I'd imagine a cleaning and a lube will help them greatly. End of life SKCM is still better than any current Matias or the most recent SKBM Alps that Matias are based off of.
If you used Tribosys 3204 on them, that could've contributed to the worse feeling as well. I personally haven't lubed any of my Alps switches besides a bit of dielectric grease to eliminate spring ping, and that's a 100% worthwhile thing to do to every switch ever imo. Alps switches much prefer dry lubes, and wet lubes like Tribosys or any other MX suitable lube makes them feel goofy.
Denture tabs can be found at any store, and they're made for dentures, but their oxidization works wonders on a whole lot of different things, just no metal. Think of them as OxiClean(the laundry kind) bit for plastics.
Basically, just take only the top housing and slider(don't forget to take out the dampening rubber tabs) and drop them in the denture tab solution, blowing the dust out first with canned air or a DataVac. Let them sit in there for a while, maybe not 12 hours for only a couple testers, but still a decent amount of time. Once they're done, just squeeze a tiny(barely coat the spring) bit of dielectric grease on each end of the spring and put em back together. If you're going to dry lube them, I wouldn't be able to give advice, as I haven't dry lubed, but I'm sure you can find a tutorial somewhere. They should be silky smooth after that.
As far as what you'll like in the Alps spectrum, it is very difficult to base it off of MX switches, as none have really done a good job at recreating Alps' feels. If you like tactility, I think Alps are the way to go, but for linears, MX are your better option. The designs of each switch are inherently tactile or linear respectively, so neither is a flat out better switch. Alps tactility(though I've heard the oranges feel a whole lot different, and I want some so bad!) is what you'll get from the white damped switches, as long as you can get them smooth, it's rounded and... elegant?(goofy word to use, but it makes sense) If you find buckling springs too loud, you won't enjoy Alps clicky switches. They're loud, but it's such a good sound. Honestly, if your favorite switch is Topre, you may like the cream and white damped more than most, as long as your examples are good. These are the closest to rubber dome I've personally felt in a switch, but they a still are noticeably mechanical.
yeah I can't imagine the dielectric grease I used for my stabs flowing out of them, it's very thick. Here's the one I use.
Agreed.
OP:
The original terminals on the HO are cheap shit. I had to literally hammer mine on and use dialectic grease to get a good connection.
Tighten them as best you can, then use a socket of suitable size the get equal pressure when lightly tapping down until they have no wiggle left. Don't smash them on as you may break something. And use dialectic grease.
$6.99 on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=dialectic+grease&qid=1554338141&s=gateway&sr=8-2
I got these plugs after reading up about them on Subaruforester.org.
NGK SILZKAR7B11 Laser Iridium Spark Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009MVNSGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ou95AbQY7N2ZS
Found a video on YouTube to get the gist of it but it's pretty straight forward.
Couldn't tell you the size of the socket. It's pretty standard it's just a really tight space to maneuver anything into (without dropping) and I didn't have a tiny ratchet.
For the stems, I use Krytox 1514. You can get a 3ml vial at mehkee for not much. (That's enough to lube all the switches on a full size board, but it's the smallest amount you'll find.)
For the wires (where the metal wires meet the plastic stabilizer) I use delectric grease that I got from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL8VD2/
As for how to do it, there are videos on youtube that show you, but basically you use the thinner Krytox on the black plastic where the stem rubs against the housing. (Wherever there's friction). The thicker grease goes where the metal meets the plastic and keeps it from rattling around. Make sure you use dielectric grease because it's non-conductive. You don't want to short out anything on your PCB.
These https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BPUAYTG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517970055&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ngk+1422&dpPl=1&dpID=51DwxIvL0qL&ref=plSrch
I actually didn't have that problem with mine :/ My only problem was the stabs wobbling like crazy, but i'r pretty sure some nice lube will fix that. I got this from amazon. Probably wayyy too much for my needs but at least i know i will never run out haha
I have some impressions after using the keyboard for a day:
More than 50k miles on current ones. I'm guessing they're gunked up. I bought [these] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007WR66QQ/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1as) replacement.
This turned out more expensive than I expected because of the tools. Can somebody confirm that I'm buying the right stuff for the job? Am I forgetting anything?
Doesn't have to be Amazon, it's just convenient. 1994 Miata.
Thanks for taking your time and writing down some quick tips! I didn't really realize about the sidebar. I'll have a browse through it again!
I think these tips will be super helpful. For my keyboard stabilizers would [this] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000AL2RI2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A3W0W1W3AIWFOT&psc=1) lube do? The one you linked wasn't available in the UK.
I've not done lots of soldering before so I'll definitely practice before actually trying it on for the keyboard. I've got some hardware for another project I was working on that needs some soldering done but haven't got the time yet to start that.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL8VD2
About $6.88.
Diaelectric paste can help a little. Heatsink compound doesn't like to move around.
They're 8 bucks each. They're not that expensive. BMW tries to pull the same shit charging 20 bucks a pop for NGK plugs. I just did a full service for coils/plugs for my 128i and it was $180 total, vs the ~1k quote from BMW and 700 from the Indy shops.
https://www.amazon.com/NGK-Laser-Iridium-Spark-DILKAR6A11/dp/B00IZ3JD70/
Check the coolant temperature sensor. This Youtube video will lead you in the right direction in swapping it out, and they are fairly cheap. Basically theres 3 wires coming from it - A ground, a wire that controls the gauge, and a wire that tell the ECU when to turn on the fan.
This is what I would do to avoid doing the same job twice: Buy the sensor. If you don't need it you can always return it. When you get to the point of removing the old sensor, check the connector for corrosion. At this point if the connector looks corroded, it's probably the plug and that would either need replaced, see here. I would try to clean it real good with a good electronic cleaner with an old toothbrush, and add some Dielectric grease to it to keep it from corroding. Plug it back in and see if that helps. If you're having the same issues after that, then I would replace the sensor and go from there. If that doesnt do it, then its something with the wired connection between the sensor and the ECU, or the ECU itself.
maybe some dielectric grease to compensate! https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2
Dielectric Grease for $7 is probably your best bet.