Best barrel & hand fuel pumps according to redditors
We found 72 Reddit comments discussing the best barrel & hand fuel pumps. We ranked the 29 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 72 Reddit comments discussing the best barrel & hand fuel pumps. We ranked the 29 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
ahh man all you guys had to do was get some powdered sanitizer and hot water and a one of those hand pumps and pump the hot water with sanitizer thorugh it. this and this
Actually, it's pretty simple with a shaker siphon. To maximize the local store's $ off fuel promo (35 gal maximum), I fill up the car/truck and up to four 5 gallon gas cans. Using the siphon to put the gas in the car later is easier than using even the old-style spouts.
I just bought 4 x Wavian 5 Gallon NATO Jerry cans from CampingMaxx and they are great - https://www.campingmaxx.com/nato-jerry-gas-can.html
Fit perfectly in my 2017 Escape (Same trunk as yours). I got 4 cans in red, and got 2 spouts. I also have a shaker siphon on the way - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EH0ORI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.1iTybARPWCNP
https://i.imgur.com/WZRkeGg.jpg
They are pricey, but worth it!
The quality NATO cans also do not vent or anything, so in the entire time taking these 4 home from the gas station, I didn't even get a wiff of gas. I would have no concern leaving these in my car in the event of evacuation or anything. I would probably avoid driving around with them all the time though, as if you had a bad accident they could break open and leak gas everything
If you get four, they line up with the rear seats perfectly, so a strap could go all the way round
EDIT: Here is my full EDC, since you have an Escape too... https://www.reddit.com/r/VEDC/comments/67res8/updated_vedc_album_38_images/
I could be wrong but a lot of newer cars have a screen or something built in so you cant really siphon the gas easily like in the older vehicles. My dad used to siphon the gas out of his bikes and the lawn mowers when getting ready for winter with a piece of plastic tubing. Just make sure to get clear tubing so you can see when youre about to get a mouth full of gas, lol.
This one has a shaker to start the siphon, if youre concerned about ending up with gas in your mouth haha.
Shaker Siphon Transfer Pump for Aquarium Water Gas Oil Fluid Fuel Automotive EDCarrying SG-01 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07523NS4G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LaxOBb847BN5M
A siphon pump is going to be your best bet. Less than ten dollars.
Koehler Enterprises RA990 Multi-Use Siphon Fuel Transfer Pump Kit (for Gas Oil and Liquids) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0181EDCZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7kJOyb5JVPD8R
Removing the questionable gas is the safest option, & no reason not to do it. If you don't want to suck through a hose & want to spend money you can try something like a shaker siphon https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-10801-FloTool-Shaker-Anti-Static/dp/B000EH0ORI
 
You can try to run it, it most likely won't hurt anything, it's not a huge risk. But for only ~$10-15 worth of gas it's not the best idea. If it were my truck I would try it, but that's because I would feel comfortable handling any negative side effects myself, without having to spend much money.
When it's time to put fresh fuel in, it's not a bad idea to only fill the tank with a few gallons worth of fresh gas & drive it for a day or so (then check for leaks/smells). There's a chance that the reason it wasn't being used is because it has an issue, but hopefully/likely it'll be alright.
A good fuel system cleaner would be Redline SL-1, or BG 44k.
Hope you enjoy your new truck.
Had a post like this awhile ago with more insight for those who care...
I guess I can repost my own post:
I do this kind of thing as a part time job for CDOT (Colorado Dept of Transportation) when I want extra money to buy something stupid, so I have some good insight as to what gets people stuck.
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>An extra belt and a breaker bar big enough to move the tensioner.
I mean, I don't carry an extra belt, but I'm pretty good about checking wear on it every few weeks or so. However, a breaker bar is definitely definite definitely recommended. It's most useful for wheel lugs, but it'll work on a belt tensioner too.
>Spare hose clamp for if you blow a radiator hose off/ intake hose/ turbo hose/ whatever. They cost like nothing (literal cents), but when you need it you need it. You ain't going anywhere with no air intake/ turbo intake/ coolant hose.
>Bottle jack? instead of the stock scissor jack?
No you don't need a full size floor jack.
If you have a regular passenger car (like a 4 door car) the scissor jack will work fine. They are kind of tedious to jack up and down but it's for an emergency, not everyday use. The bottle jack is a good idea for large SUV, Trucks, and RVs. Make sure you have a base or something on it if you have any sort of lift. Also remember that you will have to jack up much further to install the inflated tire than you had to for the flat one.
Only other advice I have here is actually pull that jack out and figure out how to use it. They all gotta be different and some are like oragami in how this click into that, which slides onto that... Reading the user manual and deciphering the IKEA-esque pictures on the side of the road just adds frustration and stress to the already crappy situation.
>Fix-a-flat kit
Meh. A spare tire is the better option. Make sure you check it's inflated at least every couple months. It's very very common that people have a spare, but that its flat. It does you no good as a spare if it's flat. A tire plug kit a definitely a good thing though. If you do HAVE to use the fix a flat, prepare to have a tire shop guy charge you twice when they find it all over the wheel. It's a nightmare to clean off, and as others have said will ruin you TPMS sensor. Depending on the make/model of your car this could be another $35 to $100 you have to spend, in addition to a new tire.
>Lights! and flares
(Ignore the guy in the comments that said lights are only emergency vehicles. He has no idea what he's talking about)
For an emergency kit, flares are better since they don't require batteries (that you will forget to change/ charge). However, lots of road flares last 30 - 60 minutes. It should take you 20 to change a flat. Be careful with the flares as many types drip as they burn. Don't light yourself or the side of the road on fire. I know you're thinking "well duh" but it happens every year in CO where I live. Someone lights the brush on fire near the highway cause they put flares out and got to fixing their car and not paying attention.
That said, you can get LED road flares that are bright and really good at attracting attention. Look up the laws in your area. Some places restrict the color you can use. Amber (orange) is usually a pretty safe color to choose. If you can get on that has more than one color, it's better. Monochromatic light doesn't give people good depth perception. Avoid as much as possible bright white strobes facing rearward. All you're going to do is blind the people you are trying not to get hit by.
> Screwdriver set with misc bits
Like others have said, this won't be super useful for your car, but for various other tasks it can be a huge time/ money/ aggravation saver to just have basic tools for random things. Ever tried to get a hose clamp off with just your fingers? You just have to remember to put those tools back in the kit. You don't need Snap Off for this as they likely won't get used that much. Don't get the cheapest ones at Harbor Freight either. Get the " pittburgh professional" ones.
> Socket set?
You can get the set if you want to, but at a minimum get the socket that fits your lugs. Get the drive size that fits the breaker bar you got from above (likely 1/2"). When I do this for work I had a cordless impact driver which was awesome, but a breaker bar doesn't require you to remember to charge batteries, and I haven't found anyone that just wasn't strong enough to use one. A breaker bar is like $15. Cordless impact driver powerful enough is like $250+.
>Glass Breaker/ Hammer
Honestly, you'd be better off with a spring loaded center punch. You have to have room to swing the hammer, and some people (elderly, children) just don't have the strength to hit the window hard enough. With the center punch, you just touch it to the glass and push until it clicks. Many cops and firefighters use these as a means to get you out. If you go this route, have a seat belt cutter, pocket knife, something...
>Fire Extinguisher
It's better if you mount this somewhere where it wont get buried. My favorite place is honestly the trunk lid or right in front of the taillight area in a car, under one of the seats for a SUV or truck (if you can easily flip it up). Imagine yourself suddenly panicking and thinking holy goddamn s**t my car is on fire, and scrambling to get to your extinguisher. Put it somewhere you can scramble to easy. If it takes longer than 10 seconds, its not accessible enough.
> A little portable air compressor
can really help if you get a flat and have a flat spare. Not necessary but sure is nice. You can use it for other things too (blowing up sports balls air mattresses etc...). They usually take FOREVER to fill a tire, but if you're stuck anyway...
>Roll of duct tape (because obviously).
I've used it to tape up bumpers after an accident so they can at least get off the road, to secure wiring, to a whole number of other things.
>Spare fluids.
Maybe. Gallon of coolant or distilled water at least. quart of oil, etc... This also depends on where you normally drive. If you never leave the city and a parts store is usually a couple blocks away then you don't have to bother. If you live outside the city and it would take you the entire afternoon to walk the next 15 miles to the store...well, plan accordingly.
> Tire pressure gauge.
To check main and spare tires. Don't trust the ones on the gas station pump (they get slammed around and scraped on the ground). I've seen them as inaccurate as 15 - 20 p.s.i. off.
> Jumper cables.
Better yet, your own jump pack.. Jumper cables are only useful if someone else is there to rescue you.
> A tow strap
is kinda nice, but if you're stuck and there's nobody else around it won't help you (unless you have a winch/ come-along). Nothing wrong with having one handy in case someone comes along though.
> Tire chains.
Don't know where you live but in CO there is actually a new (ish) chain law for passenger vehicles. When it's in effect you are supposed to have chains (or alternative traction device) in place. It's not just for truckers anymore. I take them out in the summer.
> A shaker siphon
Makes transferring fuel way way way way way less infuriating than dealing with the stupid friggin gas cans you have to buy nowadays. All the silly safeties and valves, it's like playing goddamn BopIt. They also work for coolant and washer fluid too, not that you would be dumping gallons of washer fluid... How to use it I don't carry a fuel container in my truck with me, but FYI it's illegal (in the US at least) to transport fuel in anything other than an approved fuel container. I doubt you'll get in trouble, just something to consider.
Next time, use a siphon pump.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0181EDCZ6/
You should have one somewhere for emergencies.
P.S. call poison control!
I really like the shaker siphons for fuel transfer. I keep one attached to my jerry cans.
https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-10801-FloTool-Shaker-Anti-Static/dp/B000EH0ORI
Or at harbor freight if that is more your speed. https://m.harborfreight.com/self-priming-copper-jiggler-pump-47334.html?utm_referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fduckduckgo.com%2F
I have both and the only difference is the hose on the harbor freight version tends to collapse when bent.
For Jerry cans I like the Wavian brand jerry cans. I store fuel (with stabilizer) for 6-12 months at a time before cycling it and I wanted something that wasn’t going to leak or vent. They are heavy steel and coated internally. Those can be had directly from Wavian with free shipping so you know you aren’t getting a knockoff from a ripoff artist on Amazon. Priced exactly the same as Amazon.
Great story! Thank you for volunteering it’s nice to have a reminder that good ppl are out there!
These work really well and pretty fast. You would just need some empty gasoline jugs to hold it.
This day and age its hard not to recommend a pcp rifle. prices have dropped and features have gone up. If you plan to hunt .25 is a solid caliber choice for most small game. Mike over at flying dragon dropped the price of the sentry to 200 dollars shipped. http://flyingdragonairrifles.org/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=68 throw in a 50 dollar pcp pump off amazon https://www.amazon.com/Mophorn-Pressure-Convenient-Pre-Charged-Pneumatic/dp/B06XQ4RLNY/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1542106328&sr=8-8&keywords=pcp+pump and you will have your self a very capable small game gun that will be worlds more accurate and easier to shoot that a break barrel.
The NATO Jerry cans are the way to go; they're leak proof and, more importantly, prevent oxygen and moisture from getting into the gas and spoiling it.
You can usually find NATO cans at your local Army Surplus store, but they can be in bad shape. Alternatively, you can get them new here (they say "not for fuel use" but they do have the orange fuel liner inside them--the stamp is for getting around California CARB restrictions) or here.
As for transferring fuel, I use either this (with a funnel) or a "Super Siphon" (this)
Add some Sta-bil to the fuel containers and you've got long-term fuel storage. I've stored gas (treated with Sta-bil) in my NATO cans and when cycled out a year later, the gas was good as new.
Edit: Clarified stuff.
Edit 2: I forgot to mention that with either the Super Siphon or the NATO nozzle, you can empty the 5 gallon can in about 60 seconds. The only nozzle I'd recommend is the NATO nozzle I linked above. I bought it from the same company I linked above and it's been fantastic. Be aware that it will not fit into a standard vehicle gasoline filler neck; you need a funnel for that. The other "NATO" nozzle variant floating around is awful. The black plastic tip (which will fit into a gasoline vehicle filler neck) will break after about the second or third time filling up your car.
I’m an mechanic and and owner as well so I see both sides. Your intuition is right to get it out, it’s going to suck but the peace of mind is worth it.
Not sure if you already have some but some mechanical fingers will help you as it gets closer to getting it out.
The fuel will be a double edge sword, it will enable the float to float, but once it’s floating it’s going to move all over. My recommendation is once you get a visual on the float, try to grab it a bit with the fingers. If that doesn’t work get it positioned within the ribbed compartment of where the fuel cap is and drain the tank. Once the fuel is out of the compartment the float won’t be so easily moved and will be easier to grab with mechanical fingers, a bent coat hanger, what ever it takes to try to get the float close to the fuel cap.
In regards to draining the tank, obviously you can use the fuel drains but that will take forever and is kinda messy. I’d recommend purchase a siphon to speed it up. My favorite go to is the super siphon because it’s got a glass marble on the end to prime the line you just shake it up and down so there’s no drinking fuel and it has great flow once started. It comes in handy for jobs like this or say you decide to bring the extra person but your tanks are topped you can cleanly drain fuel into 5 gallon cans to shed the excess fuel. I know it says unavailable but look around the farm supply stores, home improvement stores, etc and you’ll be able to find one if you want that brand.
Not sure about the waterproof on the borescope you have. Depending on the unit it might not be waterproof but I’d check with the manufacturers specs to get an idea.
So the bad news will be if that float doesn’t float your going to have to go even deeper and remove sheet metal to find it. I imagine if your fuel tank indications were normal or at least somewhat working(at least reads full or close to it when full) it will float. This is rare but can happen.
Good luck, happy fishing!
I prefer Shaker Siphons.
Maybe a squeeze bulb type pump? You could have it hooked up to something like a water bladder. The pump would refill itself when released.
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQU7DS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XjP.ybTECP878
You can get a siphon pump or a piece of clear tubing and your mouth.
> I wouldn't sweat an extra 150 lbs primarily because you won't be carrying that 150 lbs during landing when the weight could work against you impacting stall speeds, maneuvering, etc.
Not going to say I never had some "taxi fuel" in the plane when I started a flight. But there are several reasons why it could be a bad idea. Even a slight accident landing at his destination that involves the FAA and they calculate he was over MTOGW when he departed is enough to make them want to jump on him an MAYBE make his insurance company claim they don't owe him anything.
Personally I would, and have, drained some fuel from the plane. I have three five gallon plastic fuel cans at my hangar (actually four, but I use one for old oil). I have a piece of rubber tubing that fits over the quick drains. It is pretty simple to put one end of the tube into the jug, and one over the quick drain and open the drain.
Or you can buy one of these https://www.amazon.com/Super-Siphon-Hose-Pack/dp/B000ZORJ1E
I also have one of those. I use it on my SeaRey.
As for the fears of fire.... Take precautions. But it is better to have a fire on the ground because of fueling issues than a fire because you had an incident (of course the chance of an incident is pretty small...... But it is small in either case).
Yeah, if it's a practicality thing I use this "shaker" siphon and red plastic fuel cans.
If it's an aesthetics thing: then no.
I use this for a lot of gas, and it works well. Why? Because I was reading the Kroger fuel discount brochure one day and realized my reward was for up to 35 gallons of gas. I was essentially throwing over half my reward away by using it on 15 gallons of gas. So now, I take my car and four five gallon containers about once a month and save 50 to 70 cents per gallon on 35 gallons ($210-$294 for a year/ enough for a membership to the children's museum and zoo). Before I was using a funnel, but that shaker siphon was a godsend. I just set the 5 gallon container on my trunk (old car) and start it going and come back in a few minutes.
Maybe that helps? I use it for my mower and moped too.
I'm not sure about what /u/JHCain is running, but you might be interested in one of the poor mans beer engines that I've seen.
Basically you use a corny keg for the cask, just keg condition it with low priming sugar for the low volumes CO2, then you use an RV water hand pump and just connect it with beer line that fits, and then you use a low pressure propane regulator on a low pressure CO2 line as a breather. Without the air exposure, you can get longer shelf life out of the beer. I keep toying with the idea of doing this, but have never gotten around to it.
I think there's a BYO article on it somehwere. and I think the guy built a DIY type sparkler for the end of the RV pump spout.
uh what did i just find??
Clog fuel filters, clog injectors, gum up your fuel pump,dirty your MAF, etc. Lots of bad stuff that will make a $1000 car a write off
https://www.amazon.com/Koehler-Enterprises-RA990-Multi-Use-Transfer/dp/B0181EDCZ6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=transfer+pump&qid=1555898667&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Those are absolute garbage. He needs a real one to have a fighting chance.
https://www.amazon.com/Brine-Marine-Changer-Extractor-Vacuum/dp/B07CXH95LH
I was looking to make a wooden box to conceal a mini-keg and support a hand-pump. Then I thought a cooler with a thermo-electric chill plate might be better for maintaining the appropriate serving temperature. It took way too long to realize that I had one already sitting in the basement. My old mini kegerator was already well-suited to the 5-liter format, and has a built in temperature control. So, the Edgestar Beer Engine was born. I built a custom box to fit on top of the unit, and fitted it with the Valterra RP800 Chrome Rocket Hand Pump.
In 2014 I set up a very crude, portable cask system/beer engine using a picnic cooler, some of those camping water cubes, a hand potable water-pump designed for an RV, and some 3/8" food grade tubing. Got some photos of it here: https://imgur.com/a/YbAExO2
It worked pretty well as a makeshift draft system until I upgraded to a proper kegerator. I even conditioned the beer in the cubes a few times since I was going for low carbonation British style ales and only wanted for 1.5 volumes of Co2. It was a hoot to (literally) roll it to a party.
Most of the bits and bobs are easy to find, but the water pump is here if you want to give it a shot. : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BGM2XG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
probably fell out of a siphon tube like this one https://www.amazon.com/Safety-Siphon-Safe-Multi-Purpose-Priming/dp/B000BG1X54
I use one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EH0ORI
Not sure, it’s this one
with that many miles, i wouldn't suggest draining/filling via the drain plug.
i'd suggest siphoning some out with a device like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Koehler-Enterprises-RA990-Multi-Use-Transfer/dp/B0181EDCZ6/
siphon out 2 qts worth, as its likely black. then fill in 2 qts.
in 1 month, do the same again. keep doing this
please keep in mind the condition of your ATF via color. here is a chart to help.
https://cdn-enterprise.discourse.org/cartalk/uploads/default/original/2X/a/ae8d95d195f3bc88f3aad95c4a7358a12600c85f.gif
in total, the job is likely to take 20-25 minutes... the point of this slow siphon/fill method is to slowly remove the garbage from your trans, without increasing the risk the trans blowing up.
Here's a good resource: http://m.wikihow.com/Siphon-Gas. I personally have this device which makes it very easy: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D2QL0DU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_J9D.yb7A80KC5. Either way, wear safety goggles in case there's a splash, and dispose of the old gas appropriately.
My Ninja 250 also only has RES/ON/OFF, without a prime setting. I've seen a few other oldish bikes with the same setup. I'm guessing it's a holdover from back when things were unreliable enough that you could conceivably have both the vacuum-operated part of the petcock and the float valve fail -- setting the petcock to OFF will prevent gas from getting out of the tank regardless of what's going on with the vacuum.
For future reference, the easiest way to prime carburetors without a prime setting is to get a simple hand vacuum pump with the right diameter hose to fit around the vacuum nozzle on the petcock (something like this). Just give it a few pumps and you're off to the races.
From what I hear, ethanol free gas can last at least a year if stored properly, and up to 2 or 3 with stabilizer. Ethanol gas is is about 3 months without stabilizer and 6 months with stabilizer. Personally i'd keep a 55 gallon drum of gas around, and 2 or 3 five gallon containers. 10 just seems like so many containers to deal with. STA-BIL, Star Brite and PRI tend to be the most popular gas stabilizers (can't tell you what's the best).
Get a 55 gallon drum and one of these ( https://www.amazon.com/TRDRUM30-Heavy-Barrel-Manual-Siphon/dp/B00APU2X2S/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1542699046&sr=8-4&keywords=55+gallon+drum+pump ) and you can pump out gas when you need it. No need to worry about any plastic leeching or sunlight degrading or nothing like that.
Also, how long as you prepping for/is there anything specific you want to be prepared for? You trying to power your house with a generator if power lines go down or something? Because depending on what you're trying to prep for, 50 gallons total might not be enough. Honda's popular EU2200i takes like a gallon every 3.25 hours at full load. I don't know your situation, but it's just something to think about.
How can you afford a 55 G drum of VG but not a pump?!
The cheapest method here will be a fuel transfer pump. I've used them to get old gasoline out of cars.
Might be easier to turn up the heat in the room or place a space heater by the drum to warm up the VG a bit before to make things go faster.
Here is the first one I found but I'm sure you could find it cheaper at like a Harbor Freight or any auto store:
Koehler Enterprises RA990 Multi-Use Siphon Fuel Transfer Pump Kit (for Gas Oil and Liquids) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0181EDCZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fAs7xbHQNMW4M
because some transmissions dont have dipsticks, but when you change the fluid you also should change the filter.
If you have a dipstick and want to pull the fluid out that way, you just need a pump. Like this one but that doesn't really prepare you for how doable this actually is.
It looks like this - exact same design - except mine is all metal, the siphon hoses are clear and cost it $30 (can't find the exact one I have):
Koehler Enterprises RA990 Multi-Use Siphon Fuel Transfer Pump Kit (for Gas Oil and Liquids) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0181EDCZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5lfrDbY36MTHC
The hosing is long and only 1/4" so can make it around the anti-rollover valve, although it takes some spinning and jiggling. It works on my VW Gti, Prius C and is long enough to work on the RV too.
You can see the tarp we use, which is great for the burn -- super heavy, and other fuel things on our packing list: https://www.trippingly.net/burning-man-bin-organization
I bought a jiggler siphon just for this reason. It works great for transferring fuel. Every other siphon I've ever used does not even compare.
If you think you're going to finish the keg you could always just use a hand pump. They sell them at HD or Harbor Freight for a couple bucks. You'd just have to worry about oxidation if you leave the O2 on the beer if you don't finish it.
I do this to push sanitizer through so I don't waste CO2.
This was $5 at harbor freight: Koehler Enterprises RA990 Multi-Use Siphon Fuel Transfer Pump Kit (for Gas Oil and Liquids) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0181EDCZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Yld.AbJMSA7W1
Even the siphon hoses are out of stock at Amazon Canada :/
https://www.amazon.ca/Super-Siphon-Hose-Pack/dp/B000ZORJ1E
I know you're not looking for a siphon but I'd recommend one of these for transferring gas.
Just put it in the can shake up and down and you're good to go
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Siphon-Hose-Pack/dp/B000ZORJ1E
I prefer the sipohon for my generator and boat.
https://www.amazon.com/Shaker-Siphon-Hose-Original-Safety/dp/B06WGQYPXP/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1505671471&sr=8-9&keywords=siphon+gas
You could use a siphon, this one is nice, but it's up to you.
https://www.amazon.com/Safety-Siphon-Safe-Multi-Purpose-Priming/dp/B000BG1X54/ref=pd_sbs_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000BG1X54&pd_rd_r=XWCVJD41NX5A5PW7R86W&pd_rd_w=DNCYy&pd_rd_wg=c1NOC&psc=1&refRID=XWCVJD41NX5A5PW7R86W
Use a siphon pump to drain any container if you can't tip it over. KATUMO Gasoline Siphone Hose, Gas Oil Water Fuel Transfer Siphon Pump, Portable Widely Use Hand Fuel Pump, Fuel Transfer Pump with 2 Durable PVC Hoses https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WVQ2DM8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QkbGDbKW6D86V
Are you trying to make a cask ale? I'd recommend just buying a beer engine or at minimum this hand pump
https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-Silver-RP800-Rocket-Pump-Chrome/dp/B000BGM2XG/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=Trailer+hand+pump&qid=1568143028&s=gateway&sr=8-6
Then you would need to clean it after every use. Your beer will also go bad after about a week from oxygen contamination, but you can switch to using 1 gallon glass apple juice juhs
Does the pump need to be tied into the controls on the washing machine cycle (i.e. does it have to drain at a certain point)?
You could try a manual siphon pump or a drill pump (need to have an electric drill though) . For $100 or so you could get an electric water circulation pump, but at that point you could probably just get a better washing machine.
or buy this...
Yes, this has been a law for 10 or 15 years I think.
It seems like I always end up spilling more gas trying to get these caps to work than I do with the old normal gas cans.
I use one of these little siphons most of the time now. You shake it and the ball bearing in the end gets the siphon started.
http://www.amazon.com/Super-Siphon-Hose-Pack/dp/B000ZORJ1E
Looking around on harbor freight I found this which I also found on amazon http://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-10803-FloTool-Transfer-Pump/dp/B00D2QL0DU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1450393738&sr=8-2&keywords=transfer+pump
This might be perfect, thanks!
Not loud at all, this is what I mean
https://www.amazon.ca/WarmCare-Rubber-Primer-Transfer-Vacuum/dp/B079R831N8/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=WarmCare+8mm+Black+Rubber+Fuel+Pump+Hand+Primer+Bulb&qid=1557431755&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull
I use a hand pump siphon, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Zitrades-Siphon-Gasoline-Liquid-Transfer/dp/B07D3LMDCY
I pump out as much as I can back into my gas can, then put in a little bit of gas stabilizer, slosh it around, then run it until it runs out. If there’s any gas left at all, at least it will be stabilized.
Also, don’t store gas for more than couple months, pour it into your can and refill you gas cans if you need to keep gas on hand.
With my outdoors tank, I either force water into the hose outlet to start it or submerge the whole hose and temporary plug the outlet end. Then there is also using a pump to start it or force it out faster.
Soon, I will probably get the valve parts to make these-
Amazon.com: Super Easy Siphon Hose
It's hard to do on anything modern because the rollover valve does a pretty good job of being an anti siphon valve as well. You could give this a go but I'd try it out before you need it.
That is a major mess.
My wife doesn't like to pump her own gas. I always have ~10 gallons at my house in gas cans. Use this.
https://www.amazon.com/Siphon-Self-Priming-Aquariums-Drinking-FDA-Grade/dp/B00MVAIL76/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=syphon&qid=1570837243&sr=8-9
You could siphon it out. It would take a while but there would be much less work involved.
http://www.amazon.com/Super-Siphon-Hose-Pack/dp/B000ZORJ1E
Can I ask a dumb question and not trying to be a smart ass at all. Is it possible to use a bulb siphon with say 1/2 to 3/4 fuel line. I am thinking a bulb like this would work.
http://www.amazon.com/Portable-Liquid-Transfer-Gasoline-Adapter/dp/B00N5C28BO/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1422532942&sr=1-2&keywords=siphon+pump+for+gasoline
In addition, what length limits could you have on the fuel line? Instead of a bulb could you use something like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Barrel-Hand-Crank-Pump-Paraffin-Diesel-Fuel-Oil-Petrol-Syphon-48-to-205-L-Drum-/291111955063
Seems cheap to me, price wise. Just want to bounce ideas of someone to see if this would work or not.
Drum Siphon Pump
I recently upgraded from an old beater sedan to a newer vehicle and, in the process, learned that my manual siphon
(a plumber's siphon) would be ineffective in transferring fuel. Apparently modern cars have a valve in the fuel filler neck that is designed to both prevent gas spillage in the event of a rollover and also function as an anti-siphoning device. Here's a video on one way to siphon gas from a modern vehicle, which shows how to bypass this valve by using a 1/4" tube. They are using a 12V pump but a manual version is available here. I've had it sitting in my 'save for later' Amazon cart for months now so have not tested this method personally.
I store a moderate amount of gas (130 gallons). I use 15 gal HDPE closed head drums (8x) and a few 5 gallon jerry cans. I do not use stabil. Every year when hurricane season ends I start using the gas to fill vehicles. When each tank gets empty, I fill it back up. Each tank gets used yearly, so it never goes bad.
If I were going to have a larger multi-year stockpile I would use ethanol free gas and add stabil.
15 gallon HDPE closed head barrels are great, and can be usually found used on criagslist or bought new from grainger or other industrial supply vendors. They are much more solid, do not leak fumes, and are much more robust than those flimsy red 5 gallon cans. Full of gasoline they weigh about 95 lbs, so they can be moved alone. If you fill 55gallon drums, they weigh 350lbs full, so it is a challenge to move. Get a [Siphon] (https://www.amazon.com/Plumbers-Siphon-Pro-Universal-Extender/dp/B014LEQC98) to make your life easy.
Also, a solid upgrade for many vehicles is an extended range fuel tank. Not only does this increase your range, but I think stopping for gas is annoying and now do not have do it often.
Use this:
https://www.amazon.com/Safety-Siphon-Safe-Multi-Purpose-Priming/dp/B000BG1X54
It's a water jug, not a jet fighter. How hard can filling it up be? What kind of question is this?
Maybe you're thinking about filling them up at the last minute before an emergency? If that's the case I'll say don't do that. Fill them both up now using whatever reasonable means you have at your disposal and maybe alternate emptying one out (either use it all up or dump it) and refilling it every month so you have a nice fresh backup supply if you need it.
Plain non-perfumed Clorox is great for disinfecting and preserving water. While eight drops per gallon is prescribed, I'll assume you get your water from an already clean municipal source. In that case, maybe just put 10 drops in your filled jug before putting it away.
If your concern is filling it up quickly in the field, in a hostile environment, and from a shallow water source I'll recommend something like this to include in your kit.
Otherwise... I don't know... this question is kinda...